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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2018
- In this video I show you how to calibrate a torque wrench, I'm using a Tekton torque wrench, using no special tools, just things I have around the house. There is a little math involved unless you use the same method and same weight as I do.
Here is the torque wrench: amzn.to/2NGiQJi
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keywords: fix repair torque wrench clicking click recalibrate calibrate tekton no special tools easy step by step guide how to
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It's a metric Allen wrench.
Wow, I feel stupid for not knowing they have a metric version of Allen keys. Thanks for this, ill pin it so everyone can see.
A 3mm to be exact
@@JRobling Didn’t know there was a metric set????
Welcome to the rest of the world, American!
Actually, if You look a little close into this topic, there's no such tjing as a metric Allen wrench. Allen wrenches were made in imperial sizes only - backed by a 1910 patent. European version - the SPS product known a yeare later as the Unbrako, was in metric sizes.
Wait til he works on something french and needs a 7mm, lol. He's in a real bind then. But enough fun, and some help - in a pinch, get to a bicycle shoppe. It has been years, but the oddest spec fastener I ever ran across was a 6.5mm - the wrench [thankfully] was provide with the equipment purchase. Think it was a compound bow that had specialized limb adusters bolt specs.
Never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.
One of my first jobs was working on car haulers, like a Jack Cooper. I was 19, didn’t have much for tools and one of the older guys at the shop was nice and didn’t mind me using his tools. I was having a hard time breaking a nut free on whatever it was that I was working on. So, I grabbed what I thought was a breaker bar. The old man comes running and screaming at me, letting me know his Snap On torque wrench is the wrong tool for the job. Ten years later I realize what an idiot I was lol.
It’s a tekton. Who gives a shit? lol
@@douglasjames2010 Damn not only was it a torque wrench, but it was a SNAP ON torque wrench.
$13-25 will buy you(him) a breaker bar that will let his torque wrench work for many more years than this one will.
Why not
I could not resist having an opinion on this. Due to the nature of how torque wrenches work, the end result of calibration creates a ratio in the scale. You change the ratio when you adjust any one location, then you only have that one spot where the torque wrench may be correct and it may be out at all other locations. To calibrate a torque wrench you need to check it at 20%, 60% and 100%. You make adjustments as follows: Adjust the low end (20%) using the handle untel it reads 20% of the max scale reading. Then adjust the screw on the side to set the 100% reading. If you had to adjust the 100% you then need to re-check the 20%. If you re-adjust the 20% you again check the 100%. You have to keep this up until you check both the 20% and the 100% without needing to adjust. Then you check the 60%. If the 60% is good you are ok, if the 60% is not good the only way to fix that is to replace the spring and start all over at 20% and 100%. It may have been left under tension for a long time and lost its spring tension ratio.
Other wrenches use a different system for the 100%. They use a pivot block instead of the screw and roller bearing inside. Everything is the same except you change pivot blocks with size differences measured in thousands of an inch. The 20% is still adjusted at the handle and the 60% is still the spring tension.
To adjust the wrench handle at any set value is to destroyed the Spring Tension Ratio and the wrench may only be accurate to that setting only. All other settings will be inaccurate. The minute you make any adjustment to the wrench you need to recheck 20%, 60% and 100% and ensure the Spring Tension Ratio is still accurate which it may not be. If you adjust the wrench at any one setting you totally change the ratio throughout the handle movement and very likely you have destroyed the accuracy of the wrench in all other locations of adjustment. By the way I have a certificate from Snap On to repair and calibrate torque wrenches as well as calibrate the instruments used to calibrate the wrenches. This will make the wrench unreliable at all locations other then the one it was set at. Take it from a certified torque wrench technician, do not do this. The fact this worked for him and was later tested fine was simply lucky for him but may not be lucky for most of you. Either that or the calibration tech repaired it without telling the customer.
Tim I tried to understand your explanation but couldn’t quite get it. Especially about adjusting to 20% at handle then 100% at screw. Any chance you could try and explain in another way?
@@markhill3196 The 20% and 100% is referring to the torque scale value of the wrench. If the wrench max scale is say 100 ft pounds then 100 % is 100 ft pounds. At the base of the handle there is a nut, at the bottom of the nut is a lock. The wrench is tested at 20%, 60% and 100% max scale value (20, 60, and 100 Ft Lbs). You adjust the 20% by adjusting the Handle. You Adjust the 100% scale value by adjusting the screw in the central area of the torque wrench on the side. 60% cannot be adjusted for, it is corrected by replacing the spring inside. If you loosen the nut and the lock you can adjust the handles relationship with the spring inside and that changes the spring tension with regards to handle scale setting. This adjustment is only used to adjust 20%. The 100% is adjusted by the screw on the side center point of the wrench. Inside is two round points that are directly affected by the tension of the spring which is increased by tightening the handle.
The spring tension pushes on the lower of the two round points against the upper. The more spring tension the harder to snap the lower round surface past the other which then slaps the inside the the tube and makes the snap sound you hear when you reach the set torque. Think of two balls sitting inside two walls with a space too small for the balls to pass by each other. Now put a spring behind one wall. The spring tension on the wall can be adjusted (Handle). The tighter the spring tension the harder it is to have the balls pass each other. The width of the walls can also be adjusted (screw). As you increase the spring tension you make it harder to pass the balls by each other. As you widen the walls apart you can adjust the max spring tension so that at 100% the balls slip passed each other. Less spring tension, less torque required to snap passed each other. Keep adjusting the wrench until both the 20% and 100% are correct. If you adjust either you need to check both again each time until they give the correct values. Once you have the correct values you check the 60%. If the is good you are done. If 60% is not but 20% and 100% are, You need a new spring. Not all wrenches use this screw for 100%, some use blocks that tip. Wider blocks are harder to tip over then thinner ones, and shorter blocks are harder to tip then taller ones. The more spring tension against the block the harder to tip it as well. These blocks are changed inside for 100% adjustment rather then the screw adjustment. Feel free to keep asking me, I am enjoying this.
@@Soniccues Wow Tim! thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!! I am also working on two wrenches so your information is very very valuable 💪👌😊
@@rolandberendonck3900 No Problem, I am glad to help and I enjoy helping. Ask whatever you want.
Tim Maher thanks for the explanation. That made all the difference. I guess in essence, that unless the spring itself is perfect, you’ll always be juggling to find a sweet spot between the lower and upper limits. For my purposes that’s quite good enough. I actually think I need a bigger wrench as mine only goes up to 100ft/lbs.
but I’ll try your method shortly and just see how I go.
Thanks again man I gotta say you certainly know the ins and outs of torque wrenches. Not everyone can say that 😂😂😂
3:31 You actually have your wrench set to 50 pounds at this time stamp, not 40 as you intended to. The little lines that come off the numbers on the left and zigzag down then over to the center line, where it intercepts the center line is actually where you need to set the adjustment. What you did was set the adjustment so that it covers the number 40 halfway, that's not how any torque wrench works or is read.
Great observation...u are right
solid
J Robling, James James is right, a line goes from the number to the center line, the intersection of those two lines is the adjustment point for this number, not the number itself...
This is very important when you work with your torque wrench, more important when you calibrate it and the most important when you teach thousands of people to calibrate their tool. Pinning this information would be very wise!
@@jocelynlacharite I thought that was obvious but it's obviously an issue. What controls the alighment of the outer and inner registration numbers?
yep 50 ft lbs. not 40, the zig zag line is there so that you are able to see the setting that you want and not cover it up with the dial.
I lost my shit when you said “breaker bar”....
So did I
Finally Found a use for my dumbbells
I almost threw my Tekton wrench in garbage and bought a new one. Thank you!
In fact, they are keys in the Imperial System (inches), the measurement system used practically only in the USA. The adjustment must be made with keys in the Metric System (decimal), which is predominant throughout the world. This is the first time I've seen Halen wrenches in inches...
Smart and simple, thank you.
My God did we watch the same video? So drawn out with the most annoying voice in history
Get a breaker bar. Save your torquer wrench.
I did it just like you said and I think it worked, thanks!
Be sure to set the torque on the wrench before choosing the length, because if you adjust the torque after you've chosen the length then your measurement will be off (maybe not enough to make a difference, but between the 20lbs and 150lbs on my wrench is almost an inch) so if it's at 150lbs and you adjust it down to 20lbs, that could add an extra inch to your initial calculation.
Good one. No one has metioned that before . Thanks
Yeah...that makes a lot of sense...
that's the reason you don't select the rotating handle you go above it onto the silver metal frame and select a fixed length and keep changing weights - so what you said is incorrect
This guy isn't very detailed in his explanation
Ideally the bar should be horizontal or you introduce cosine error ( tilted up like this, the distance from the weight to centre is less than the measured length), not a big deal for small angles, admittedly
Thanks again.
Thanks so much, the comments are funner to read then the daily news papers... 20min of pure joy!
thanks a lot mate
Thank Mister your share
Torque wrench calibration👍🤝
Thanks for the tip
Remember from high school = VECTORS..
the torque wrench needs to be positioned HORIZONTALLY.
If it is not. THEN the you can't use the formula that you showed.
Again = VECTORS. horizontal and vertical .
Also. As pointed out by previous viewer you need a set of METRIC hex head wrenches. Spend the money. SAE = inchese; METRIC = millimeters
Are you trying to say that gravity is a factor in the use of a torque wrench? Torque can be applied at any position at any vector and in any direction as in the real world with aircraft and automobiles you will not be able to only do horizontal torqueing.
@@darth1000blue, Thomas OMeara have a point! Force of cravity stays same, but the lenght (level arm) which you put in equation, is not any more lenght of the wrench bar, if you dont keep torque wrench horizontal. By other words, in that equation, bar (level arm) and force must be perpendicular.
@@darth1000blue You are correct. But gravity that pull the weight he is using is only on direction. If the wrench isn't at a 90 to gravity, it changes the amount of force applied to the wrench.
Don't you have to calibrate the scale you used to weigh your toolbox?
Excellent review! Very easy to understand for newbs. Just wanted to know how to lock the hex bolt once you have caliberated the wrench.
Thanks!
You don’t lock it. It’s an adjustment screw. Put the plastic or rubber cap back over the hole and that’s it. It’s not going anywhere.
Thank you
Wow! I had no idea that calibrating one of these things was that easy!
Today, I bought 2 of these. One small one that does 20 INCH pounds to something.....
Sadly, I got a defective one.
Even at 20 INCH pounds, it's like there no clicking. It just stays solid.
So that's going back. LOL
The other one, which is almost identical to the one you demo here, I'm not sure yet.
But after seeing your video, I just might test it like you did.
Thanks for that.
"I calibrate my torque wrench with my scales". I missed the bit where you calibrated your scales.
when the calibration is done, with other scales when using it is it accurate?
Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar is like using a violin as a hammer.
A. Almost all consumer available scales etc. are + or - 1-3% inaccurate. Even commercial scales have variances. The difference is that commercial scales are “ calibrated “ regularly but in all honesty that could be every week or every two years. B. use a weight that is approximately halfway of your torque wrenches range ( ie. if your torque wrench measures from 10-120 then use 55-60 lbs. I’m not sure why that is but that’s what I was told by someone who does torque wrench calibration professionally. C. When using a torque wrench on bolts for plastic parts accuracy is vital as they will crack at a lower tolerance than aluminum or other metals.
Can't get anywhere near 40foot pounds could it be the spring? Only getting about 15 would a washer fix that?
Can I do that with an electronical torque wrench too?
Use a luggage scale instead, in a horizontal movement.
You could also use a regular bathroom scale. Stand on it to get your weight, remember it or write it down. Grab the weight and remember or write down what the scale says. Calculate the difference between the two numbers. I know I know, bathroom scales aren’t pinpoint accurate but neither are the luggage scales that you can buy at some places. Ours that we bought 3 weeks ago read almost 2 lbs. .8 kg. Low compared to the commercial scale at the airport check in.
i used to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar until the head sheered off. I welded it back together and bought a breaker bar :)
From what I could see you had it set to 50, NOT 40?? You need to revisit your settings which is why it didn’t click when fitting your tool box. Good video thanks.
Yeah he did... good spotting
Keep in mind that the torque wrench needs to be level for this to work.
@Nagato is better than Punk Naruto ideally both, mostly level though
@Nagato is better than Punk Naruto Not if you are on a hill.
Hi m8 quick question ! Do u tighten the lug nut to the disired torque ? or tighten it so its above desired torque ? Thnks 4 the clip !
You want the nut to be tighter than what you’re calibrating the wrench to
Some kind of measuring tool... will a stadimeter work? I am also having trouble finding a conversion tool for stone-yards. I simply refuse to use newton meters - sounds like a cookie experiment gone wrong [but I do like the Meters: good band].
Ask simple as that! Great!
Hi, I slightly lowered my torque wrench below the 10 marking, does it mean that it is now uncalibrated?
I don't think so. I think you have just set it to 10Nm/ lbft or whatever unit you're using
How do you do an inch pound wrench?
If you don't find an Allen immediately, you may be lucky with a small common flat screwdriver.
Allens are hexagonal but the right flat turns them.
You make me cringe!!! LOL I have done similar things but, the older I get the more time I save by using the right tool for the right job.
I just did this and it didn’t change anything or is 12nm not alot at all it is almost hand tight
if you are calibrating using inch pounds do you not need to convert it to foot pounds
The torque wrench is now calibrated to match the scales. if the scales are out the torque wrench is out. Thanks for the video
3:30 Isn't that set at 50lbs?
yes it is
Was the torque wrench parallel with the ground when you were hanging the weight? If not, you need to make a correction for the number of degrees the wrench deviated from being parallel. The equation is: torque = distance * weight * cosine(angle in degrees above or below the horizontal).
You also need to consider that the wrench itself will add torque, due to the weight of the wrench. Weigh the wrench and consider the weight acting through the center of mass of the wrench. Figure the center of mass distance by balancing the wrench on a straight edge and measuring that distance from the center of the drive square.
Torques are reported accurately only when the force is applied to a particular place on the handle. That is the groove that is machined into the handle and it corresponds to the middle position of where your hand would grasp the handle.
How do you not have a breaker bar? Like $20 at harbor freight
Good video. Isn't the narrow groove on the handle @ 2" from the hilt the intended pressure point therefore where weight should be hung? Or does it matter?
mine isnt clicking at all. i even backed the screw all the way out
Can you tell me how to disassemble a Craftsman torque wrench from 1972?
A grinder would work.
It's obvious this guy is not and expert on all things torque wrench. He doesn't know there are metric Allen wrenches. Why would you even ask this here?
@@Caderic I was needing to disassemble the torque wrench to replace the spring and looking for someone with experience to answer. I did find someone to show me how to do it. It's very easy and does not require a grinder. Unfortunately the springs aren't available anymore.
Very good. Unfortunately you have uncalibrated it by setting it to 50 lb ft. That's why you had to tighten the adjuster further.
I did set it to the wrong number, however I calibrated it to the wrong number, so it may be set to 50 but I use it to the calibrated 40
@@JRobling Thats not how it works dude
Oh good I noticed that too but thought maybe I’ve been using my torque wrench incorrectly. Yeah he did have it set to 50 instead of 40
Hi JR my question 2 u is do i torque the wheel nut to 40 foot pounds ?
Tighter than what you’re calibrating the wrench to
My vehicle lug nut has a torque spec around 95 or 100 lbs. If you are calibrating your wrench like they guy in this video, you don't want the weight to be close to to your lug nut spec because you don't want it turning while you are doing your test.
Thank you for the lesson! I'll calibrate my torque wrenches this way...Great video :)
just 1 comment: I think that the numbers by themselves aren't actually the reading, but the line that points them, so in 3:30, you're adjusting it to 50 😱
Honestly i'm not sure how it is properly done, but I did calibrate to the way I set it so I should be good, and if you calibrate it to the way you do it it should be perfect for you. :)
@@JRobling but you had it at 50... so that means that you were thinking you were calibrating it to 40, but in reality it was 50 since that's what you selected.
You can clearly see the 50 is clear of the black knurled handle. He has it set to halfway over the number “40” which means he has it on the line pointing to 40 ft/lb.
@@raffikkiz ok, I'm coming back 1 year later, now I have so much more experience with tools haha. And yes, some tools have that S shaped lines, so that you can see the complete number at which you're setting to. And there are some other tools which have only straight lines, and in this case, you cut in half the number you're pointing. For example, a tire pressure gauge :)
But I agree. As long as you're the only one who uses a certain tool, however you calibrate it, will work the same
Watch the tekton how to use video. The line below the number is the torque value.. if its over the number than its the number above that like dude said in last comment so you can see the number.. so yea he had it set to 50 and not 40.. but to calibrate a torque wrench properly you should always use the wrenches highest torque setting value for the final weight so you would take the highest number and subtract the 1.333 value so weight=htv-(htv•1.333) if using 16"
Great vid. Wouldn't recommend using it as a breaker bar Bro....
Looks like your setting was at 50 and not 40 pounds... The centre vertical line is where the "0" goes on...
He'll never know, mate: a click style torque wrench must never be used as a breaker bar. You could perhaps go to max setting, but if it clicks... stop damaging the tool and go get that tried and true breaker bar [and a 4' section of pipe to mongo out on the bastard bolt].
For breaker bar Use Ega Master REVERSIBLE TORQUE WRENCH 1" 600-3000 Nm (400-2200 Lb.ft)
One way of doing it, with minimal tools, cos math is math, good job.
You need SAE Allen wrench
t=r*Fsin (α)
t=torque
r=radius
F=force
(α)angle between F and lever arm
so when you that calibration should be lever horizontal
I think I'll just use a digital torque adapter. Unfortunately, every situation requires trusting that something else has been calibrated correctly, so that's a risk I'll take.
You didnt have a $10 breaker bar but do have a torque wrench
Perhaps I misunderstood, but I think this test only proved that the weight exceeded the torque wrench setting?
the wrench will click when you hit the desired force. He said it was basically letting the weight go then it clicked. thats right around the right spec
Ryan Reynolds, is that you?!
you will absolutely break that by using it as a breaker bar
“Introooo”
Don't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, reason being it is hard on the internal parts, use a breaker bar for breaking bolts, then the torque wrench won't have to be calibrated as often, if you don't use it as a breaker bar.
don't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, I used to, I don't now. use a breaker bar to "break" a bolt lol, but good video
AdrianJayeOnline yeah it’s worth the extra cash to buy a breaker bar preventing the torque wrench from throwing off the calibration
Torque wrenches are supposed to be used and calibrated from the center of the handle. That's why many torque wrenches have a center pivot in the handle.
I want the same medication as you are having.
@@Ricqu maybe you could explain that reply with some technical details since I do not understand it. We checked the calibration on our torque wrenches before and after use on flight hardware in the space program. So, I do have a little experience with what I'm talking about.
@@darth1000blue Space program? You should go back to your playlist and rewatch the 'how to improve social skills' video, because I'm pretty sure lying isn't part of that.
@@Ricqu 20 years in the Space Shuttle program. Prior to that, I was in Military and Civilian aerospace. You call me a liar and yet, I have to improve my social skills? Your lack of a technical reply shows that you do not know what you are talking about. Hey, why don't you tell me about your country's space program? :-)
Torque = L x w / 12 16 inch x 30 lb / 12 = 40 ft-lb
Hello. Does the same apply to centimeters?
@@thanosgalanis6940 Is that like centipedes?
I had this all set up on the wheel passenger side and quick went to use the bathroom and came back and found the girlfriend took the car to the store ☹ found the torque wrench in the ditch by the mailbox
This hurts me in the chest area
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a breaker bar!
Breaker bars are relatively cheap, torque wrenches are expensive in comparison.
You kept that piece to hang your tool box,the strange thing is,you just didn't know it when you kept it. Now ya know
I wonder if it would matter where you hung your tool box at?
oooohhhh a breaker bar :-(.
what about the weight of the wrench?
Exactly. He should have weighed it on his kitchen scales and adjusted the weight of his toolbox accordingly.
>
You need mm hex
Advice on how to calibrate a precise measuring tool by someone who abuses that same tool. The math doesn’t lie though.
You set it to 50 and didn't account the weight of the bar.
Should it be the weight of the bar divided by 2, assuming the bar's weight is evenly distributed between the lug nut and the end?
@@christophers6034 the weight of the wrench would act in the center of gravity, doesnt necessarily have to be in the middle. But yes, for this calibration to be accurate, one would have to account for the torque applied by the wrench under its own weight.
It's negligible if you make a rough count. If the center of gravity is like 1 ft from the head, and the wrench's weight is about 1.5 lbs, it's "own torque" would be only 1.5 ft lbs. At the setting of 30,it's still only 5%.
I simply use the ACdelco digital torque adapter to keep all my other torque wrenches calibrated, good investment.
Breaker bars are pretty cheap.
Using a weight like this is inaccurate since it doesn't account for the weight of the wrench itself. A ½" torque wrench can easily weigh a couple of pounds, and with a 30 lb weight, that's an error of over 6%. Besides that, you measured the 16" before setting the torque value, and that mark will move as you twist the handle to set the torque. Finally, the position to choose needs to be in the middle of the handle, as that's where the wrench is designed to have force applied.
I don't think I have a calibration screw on mine..👎
You neglected to take into account the weight of the bare lever / handle at your chosen point (16 inches).
Your calibration will therefore be out.
>
That would makes sense if you used the torque wrench by adding weight, but people use the wrench by holding, thus negating the weight of the handle.
@@JRobling It doesn't matter which way the wrench is oriented when being used, whether its up, down, or horizontal, it will still click at the exact same point it was calibrated, and you have calibrated that wrench at 30lb plus the weight of the lever. I know what I am talking about. I have a degree in Physics.
>
@@Bodragon Ok, so when you calibrate your torque wrench, make sure to add 1lb. My lug nuts shall be forever set to 81ftlbs
@@Bodragon Good call. This is especially important if you are testing your wrench with low weight. For example, if you want to see if your wrench can accurately measure low amounts of torque.
@@JRobling My wrench weighs about 1 lb, at 1ft. foot from the head, but wrenches vary. To be more accurate, pick the point on the handle you want to use. Rest only that part of the handle on a scale with the wrench horizontal. Rest the head of the wrench on another object (like a finger). Add the scale's reading to your toolbox weight. Since you've committed to a certain spot on the handle, you can adjust the torque setting on the wrench to match your weight and distance. Thanks for the video. Helped me out.
this is not correct methode
Nice job bagging Sarah Jessica Parker 😄
I thought it had to be 12” since it measures in foot pounds...
Archimedes.
It's pounds @ 1 foot away from center. Thus if you push at 3 feet away you are applying 3x the weight.
th-cam.com/video/YlYEi0PgG1g/w-d-xo.html
Really?. Cmon
You use it as a beaker bar?!!!!!!!
Are you insane?
Yes I was...I am ashamed.
Worst thing, undo with a torque wrench
Nice
From hijab and beauty
the whole world is metric
Did you're pet chicken write to those notes?
He did, his name is Samage, he is my chicken. He scratched up those notes right quick
I feel like a joke could be made like: "Johnathan, did a rooster write your English sentence you wrote?" but it could be mean, so I won't do it.
@@JRobling kickass badass man. That's fucking cool.
@@jimbrown341 why? Did a chicken hawk give you you're name? LMFAO!!
@@johnathangrey3463 It's YOUR not YOU'RE. You're = YOU ARE. It is a contraction. Something you learned in 4th grade in elementary school. YOUR English is bad. YOU'RE (You are) not very good at writing sentences. Understand now? You should be embarrassed.
NO. Hell NO. Buy a breaker bar...
😴
39.9 repeating actually equals exactly 40 :D
1/3 = 0.3 repeating
1/3 * 3 = 1
0.3 repeating * 3 = 0.9 repeating.
0.9 repeating = 1 :D
Use an impact wrench who cares.
Two slow, moving on...