Clutch Swap on Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2022
- This would go on my other Channel "PK Racing" / @pkracing6483
This took me about an afternoon and there's a lot of steps involved. Hence 1 hour video, I even edited and cut as much as I could. I left the whole process since most of the difficult parts are not actually Clutch related.
(Warning) The Springs were too stiff for my taste I eventually swapped them out for the originals and the carbon fiber clutch needs to fully warm up before use. Attempting to use the clutch when the bike is cold will result in a sticky grabby clutch that refuses to shift. Once the bike is fully warmed up it will shift smooth and grab really well. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Un visionario del youtube que no hecho vuelo... No es tarde, vamos que si se puede!!!
Por otro lado me has demostrado lo resistente y durareras que son las vulcans
Que son capaces de soportar Mecanicos tecnicos no entrenados😂😂😂😂
Jajaja! Gracias. Si esta moto salió buena! Es muy resistente y no tiene ningún problema y así me ahorro mucho dinero.
You can drop the frame bar that the regulator is mounted to and save a few turns of the wrench ! And open up that area for cleaning . Do not use a wrench to tighten the oil filter ( hand tight ) if you are a puss you can use the wrench a little ( do not over tighten , it will be near impossibleto remove next time )!
Harley makes an oil filter funnel that makes changing the filter less messy. Used it on my Vulcan, helps a lot.
The lady is very very patient ,you should do something special for her !
You have a coolant drain plug under the side cover.
What if you take the frame parts apart and leave the regulator brake floorboad and everything together and drop the whole thing as a unit ?
Yes that would be faster and easier! Good idea, thanks.
You must have been that one good review for the caltric clutch on Amazon
Yeah that was me. I knew it was a cheap temporary clutch but I don’t recommend it long term. When I used to rent out my motorcycle this was helpful for me but I really like this new one from EBC, but it does have a long break in period to feel smooth as the grip is VERY tight compared to the cheaper ones
Nice video , lo usare Para mi 2020 model . Great content . Be blessed my brother.
👍👍👏
Did good for not being trained, professional nor a mechanic...
So the front-most friction plate does need to be offset? I referenced a bunch of other videos that did not seem to do it?
I bought the same clutch kit, I’m wondering if I should even waste my time with it. The steels going in were pretty tight, I had to push them in versus the stocks just sliding right out.
Yes it does need to be offset. However this clutch is extra grabby so maybe it doesn’t need it? For stock plates it’s how I learned and it prevents “chatter”. I also reused my old steel plates so had no issue with friction pushing them in.
I just finished installing the new clutch and took the bike for a short (2 mile) ride to test it out, and I have zero slippage which is fantastic. But I’m finding the clutch is so grabby it’s almost staying slightly engaged with the lever in. When I come to a stop I can’t get from first to neutral. I can feel the bike barely trying to move forward as well. Did you experience any of this? Is this just the clutch still “wearing in”? Thank you!
Yes the clutch is super grabby and takes a while to wear in. I had to ride mine for a few days like that. But it does have the creep in first gear on a cold start. Once the bike warms up the creep goes away. This clutch likes to run hot!
@@brendonnelson814 This clutch changes the bike feel a lot. Some people may not like it because of how grabby this carbon fiber is, but I agree it is still hard to find neutral, especially on a cold start, for example when I take it to work and I need to put it in neutral when putting my ticket in, everyone thinks I am a rookie who cannot find Neutral but it's the clutch just being extra grabby and refusing to slip or let go. This clutch pretty much makes the Positive neutral finder on the bike useless.
Are the clutch bolts supposed to be torqued?
Yes I usually suggest torquing those down to “German Spec” Guten Tight. lol don’t listen to me. It’s just until you feel it stop or whatever the manual says. 78inch pounds?
Hi ninja! Muchas Gracias por este video! What year is yours!?! Mine is 2006.
2013 Vulcan 900 Classic
Excelente tu vídeo, lástima que mi English no es muy bueno, pero escuché que hablas muy bien Español, pero el vídeo es muy esplicativo. El Torque de los tornillos del embrague? Veo que lo has hecho más de una vez. (Professional mechanic, jajaja, eres muy bueno). Resumiendo, debo sacar aceite del motor y el líquido refrigerante antes de cambiar el embrague. A los cuántos km le cambiaste el embrague? Mi Vulcan tiene ahora 62.000 km. Muchas gracias y que Dios te bendiga.
Yo no mas aprieto los tornillos hasta que ya no dan mas. Tienen resistencia muy obvia, asi sabes que debes parar y por eso use uno de 10mm muy chico y no medi cuanto le di. Yo no soy mecánico entonces no me tomes en serio. Lei en un logar que la medida es 78 INCH pounds pero nunca confirme. Y si le cambie el aceite despues que hice este trabajo. Nomas le llene el coolant al final por que el mio todavia estaba bueno.