How I Paint Things - Tank Camo (No Airbrush!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2019
- Originally a pre-war design, the Panzer IV would undergo numerous redesigns and refits, soldiering right through to the end of 1945. Early in the Second World War tanks usually went without camouflage patterns, but German tankers quickly started finding ways to adapt in the field! READ MORE:
If you're looking to start your own German force for Bolt Action or other WW2 games, check out Warlord Games for an immense range of miniatures. Click on through with the following affiliate link and if you decide to purchase anything, I pick up a small commission off the top - help out the channel at no extra cost to you, and grab some awesome miniatures! store.warlordgames.com?aff=10
A big shout-out to Pete the Wargamer, whose channel you'll find linked at the end of this video. His original video on 'Straightforward Dunkelgelb' informed a lot of this technique, and you'll probably find it interesting to compare if you've got the Army Painter range sitting on your hobby desk. If you're watching any of my videos, you'll probably thoroughly enjoy Pete's content as well!
No matter what game you're using to play out battles set during WWII, you'll find the PzIV a useful addition to your collection. Relatively well-armoured and with a range of marks carrying different main weapons, it's an extremely capable gun tank which can see off all but the heaviest Allied vehicles. These were commonly painted by their crews in the field, and I've even seen an image in which one was having paint applied using a mop! Yours don't have to be perfect for the tabletop, and you'll get a pretty close result for just about any of the Panzer divisions following this method.
Remember you can follow/reach me at the following places:
/ sonicsledgehammer
/ sonicsledge
If you like what I'm doing and you'd like to chip in, why not check out my Ko-Fi? How I Paint Things will never be behind a pay wall, but anything dropped in the tip jar is greatly appreciated and really helps.
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
PAINTS USED:
VALLEJO:
Red Leather
Russian Uniform WWII
Iraqi Sand
Dark Sand
Flat Brown
Flat Earth
CITADEL:
Typhus Corrosion
ARMY PAINTER:
Desert Yellow Spray Primer
Soft Tone Wash - เกม
![Painting German Armour: The Tiger! [How I Paint Things #250!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Soddg4jmbEM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting German Armour: The Tiger! [How I Paint Things #250!]](/img/tr.png)
trippiest transition ever at 1:30
I've unlocked the power to control time!
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio that was crazy good
small addition would be to paint around the edges (not entirely) of the chips in a slightly brighter base color to give the chips a 3D paint flaking look. It's super easy to do and is very effective at a distance.
Thanks again for another amazing video! You show how easy it is to have a nice game ready model. The tank looks amazing!
As to your point about the making the MGs Black and clean, you are spot on! I am an old Tanker from the Royal Canadain Armour Corps. When I was gunner, I couldn't go to sleep till my coax was spotless, and the main gun was pulled through, cleaned and ready to go. Everytime we where in a safe area, weapons got pulled, cleaned and oiled. So if we Canadians are that anal about our weapons during peace time exercises, I can just immagine how tankers would have been during a war. They would have been pristien!
Thank you again! Cheers!
I always had to figure that the bits of your tank that kept it a fighting tank were pretty important to maintain and keep in working order! No good pulling the trigger on something that's caked in yesterday's gunk, right? :D Thanks for sharing!
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Thank you, Sir! 👍
Love your videos! This video has been very helpful. As far your comment on historical accuracy, I was told that many of the German tanks arrived in the field in the yellow color and the red brown and green were applied in the field in a myriad of methods. So if that is true, your color scheme is dead on! ;) Thanks for all of the help, guidance and inspiration!
That looks legit. A much more realistic look vs painting the camo pattern with a brush.
very cool way to recycle the packing foam and I've wanted to do this without an airbrush for a while.
Much as I like having one, it's a bit of an exercise to pack out the airbrush just for one tank, and I'm very rarely clever enough to line up a few to do in one go. ;) Far easier to just grab some ragged old bits and have some fun!
I'm at the point now where I watch your videos just because I like listening to your voice and it reminds me of when I first started the hobby. Same feeling I get when watching Tabletop Minions.
Keep up the good work mate.
Haha, fully agreed: both Uncle Atom from Tabletop Minions and... Sonic (I just realized I don't know his name) have the best voices of all TH-cam hobbyists! Sonic has the edge for me because, as much as I like Uncle Atom's voice, he tends to talk at the camera a lot and I'd rather watch the actual minis/paintjobs.
So I've been watching your videos mainly for Warhammer stuff but the other day I found a old Panther I had tried painting up probably a decade ago, safe to say it wasn't very good. This tutorial was exactly what I needed to do camouflage however I used a makeup brush to apply the cammo.
That is awesome! I've started getting in on makeup brushes recently to my drybrushing, but I haven't tried them to actually apply the patterns. That's not a bad idea at all.
You are my main go-to for practical painting guides. So clear to understand and follow.
You should do affiliate links for the stuff you use.
Glad to hear it! I try and keep things as simple and practical as I can, since they're pretty much always quite genuinely how I paint my own miniatures. :D
As far as affiliate links go, I'm only currently on with Warlord Games for that sort of program, though they do have Army Painter stuff available through their site - along with those Rapid Deployment paint sets - so it's probably well worth including here! I've updated the description of the relevant videos, and if you do find yourself with the urge to pick up any Warlord toys, you can tag through this link to net me a little extra in the process: store.warlordgames.com?aff=10
Really good video! this is something I have been struggling with and hence stopped doing, so now I will pick it back up. thank you!
Love your videos mate. The friendly way you provide simple practical and quick tips like this that can help any hobbyist get great looking miniatures together quickly is wonderful. I wish I could do some of the stunning paint jobs I see many youtubers do, but most of it's way beyond my skills or time allowance, so quick effective techniques like this are so valuable to me.
Thank you!
I think there's a lot of merit in wanting to improve one's skills and reach the standard of painting that we'd all like to see, but when it comes to just getting started or playing games with models that didn't take a month each to paint, it doesn't hurt to approach it from a slightly different angle. ;) "Perfect is the enemy of done."
Love it. Great idea using the bit of sponge. Will be trying this out.
Fantastic work mate, going to try your method tomorrow in the StuG
Impresive camo job, inspired and superb!
Love these videos. Many thanks for them, keep it up.
Audio quality is back! Thanks. Great video.
I thought the whole tutorial was interesting and it was a nice change to see you do armor. I have an airbrush and I often spray my camouflage but I like this method too. When it is winter it is not easy to spray so learning a good brush camouflage method is very helpful and I will try this soon. Thanks for the time and effort in putting up this tutorial.
I've got a little airbrush that, due to space constraints, very rarely sees any use. It's a shame, since I love mucking around with the thing, and it's definitely the better option as far as priming goes in these long winter months! I've also found it super useful for applying matte varnishes, especially the Ultra Matte from AK.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Nice job you are showing, lot of good tips for me as a beginner ( with a brush 😊 ) My question is why did you not use a Varnish, before you did the wheatering? I want to apply a varnish ( Ultra Matt from AK ) after the camo painting on my tank and after that I want to do the wheatering.
I love this Camo!! Remind me autumn.
Looks great!
great style and a nice lesson all thumbs up
Bro I'm so glad to have found you...great work
This video has inspired me to ask my missus to ask for one of those raggedy foundation brushes!
Run the sucker under a tap for a couple of minutes and it'll be clean and ready to rock. :D They take forever to dry once they're wet, so if you're planning on doing a whole run of tanks it's better to get them all to the same stage so you can batch the lot in one go.
Great vid!
Great video! Really useful and looks like it gives great results! Also the tank looks amazing, super detailed and crisp for a 3D print! What company was it from?
This one's actually printed at home on an Elegoo Mars!
The files are available here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2090672 I scaled up one of the 1:100 files and printed it out, came out pretty well considering its original size!
Wooooow ! nice camo 👍
Thank you very much! I dont like airsoft, and your technic its so good! Do you have video with painting in grey? Or winter? I try to find in your canal. Thanks!!
Super helpful
Hobbyist to Hobbyist, Enthusiast to Enthusiast, but still a TEACHER!!! (AS USUAL!!!) xx SF
Thanks for this one. I'm not painting up any real world tanks and war machines but I love spending time weathering my SW Legion and 40k vehicles.
The tank seems like a really nice print. Did you spend a lot of time cleaning it up?
I'd love to hear more about your 3d printing hobby activities. I've been thinking about getting a 3d printer for scenery and terrain.
Due to the print orientation I was able to get away without doing a lot of cleanup. Just some filing underneath to get rid of the worst bits of support remaining, but on things like the underside of tracks and similar it just doesn't matter if there's some still attached. Weathering will sort that out. :D
I've only recently finally dialed in my scenery settings for my Ender 3 and have been knocking out scenery at last. It's a lot of fun being able to say, "Hey, I made that!" Ultimately the same is true of any kit, but the printer requires a bit of tweaking that makes it more your own, it feels like.
Absolutely love you WW II tutorials.
Santa (my wife) was very generous this year and gifted me some Bolt Action US Marines, but I haven't a clue how to make their uniforms look "sun bleached" and "battle worn" any ideas?
I'll send you a sprue if you want to do a video tutorial.
Many thanks
I've seen a few people using Green Grey as the basis of their Marine uniforms, which works pretty well for that slightly more faded look than standard US kit. I think I've got a few Marines lurking somewhere, in fact, but it'd be worth me finding them. The Bolt Action Facebook group usually has some great insights into the USM, though!
I’m an archaeologist and three month field seasons see my khakis darn near bleached more at top/shoulders and less bleached going down to my belt line. Then there’s a like armpit stain down center of my back from shoulder blades down to belt line and a white stain at edge from sweat. I hand washed every night and switched uniform every day. I know that sounds grotty but after several field seasons I simply observed the wear and tear. My pack has similar sun bleaching. I subscribe to about a dozen painters and you are my favorite and the one I try to emulate. There are two masterclass guys but I’m never going to try to paint to that level. If time please comment on your airbrush preferences. I’ve got enough backlog of figs that I’d like to try airbrush but don’t want to go through trial and error process. Again for real, you are my favorite painting tutor. Much appreciated. Best wishes. kev
Very helpful. Thanks!
Excellent tips,
another great tutorial
Dunkelgelb is such a fantastic camo pattern.
Great tutorial
This video helped me out so much! Thank you! Using it on my Bolt Action Germans!
Also, where'd you get that awesome Imperial paintbrush/water holder? Looks amazing, and 3d printed by chance?
It's a 3D print, yeah! I found the STL on Thingiverse, but I honestly couldn't tell you what I was searching for at the time. '40k cup' or something along those lines.
great video, subscribed
Very nice this help me out
Glad to hear!
I will try this when I get another model. Also how many dollars are the average acrylic paints?
Could you conceivably fix those tide marks by doing a sponge application of yellow over those spots?
Hadn't even thought of it at the time! Though in retrospect, yeah, that'd probably work quite well.
Hey, Sonic! First off I've gotta say you've very quickly become my go-to for painting advice, tips and tricks. Your videos have eased my fears of the painting aspect of the hobby. I was wondering how you'd go about painting a genestealer to be the wet, glossy black of Gigers Xenomorphs? I plan on making a genestealer cult army based around it after christmas!
Glossy black is a bit of a tricky one to get looking right, I'd say. With anything gloss, highlights can sometimes disappear - especially when they'd be grey or white! For a super quick Giger-looking monstrosity I'd probably prime black, give a quick light drybrush of either a grey or even light blue, and then just gloss varnish the model. Nice and quick, without a lot of work that's going to disappear once it shines!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks so much for the advice, it's much appreciated!
@@yurimastermind1601 Maybe even modulate the gloss by covering the whole model in Satin Varnish and unly paint the most exposed areays with Gloss Varnish.
Brilliant video as always! Do you think Zandri dust by citadel would be a good match for the primer?
Zandri Dust is close in tone, but a little more beige than yellow. If you prime with that, I might suggest a coat of Zamesi Desert to introduce a little of that golden sandiness, but otherwise it's a very close approximate.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Thanks I’ll be sure to give this a go 😁
Is there a way I can Magnetize the Turret...or do something that it is not so flimsy....just put on. I would love to turn the Mini on its head and the turrent would still stick on top, but still flexible.
Great vid as usual. Did you print that tank with your Ender 3? It looks great - I have a resin-based Anycubic Photon and could have sworn it was printed on something similar.
This one came off an Elegoo Mars, so it's also a resin print. That machine is basically a Photon clone, so you'd be able to do it just the same on yours. I've had some successes with transports and tows printed and painted up off the Ender, but for the 'stars' of a force I like to use the resin.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Makes sense. I've seen some of your Ender prints and they look better than most FDM prints, but this one looked more detailed than I figured FDM could do.
That seems to be the ideal paradigm - terrain and less detailed things for FDM, minis/more detailed stuff in resin.
I haven't done any tanks on my Photon yet - some RPG minis and spaceships - though you make a compelling argument for me to start! Thanks!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Where do you find your files?
please can smoeone tell me what i that sponge-like thing u are using to paint
Looks good! Might use this on my Leman Russes; my current plan was to spray The Fang (got the last two cans from my local GW when they stopped production!), shade Nuln Oil and then drybrush with Baharoth Blue. I think doing this effect with Thunderhawk Blue and/or Russ Grey before shading and drybrushing might be good, or do you think I might want more varied colours than that?
Edit: Also this'll be great for touching up the three spray cans method I did on my artillery much faster, thanks!
I think you'll end up with a triplet effect that'll look fairly subtle from a distance, but up close will be amazing to see the transition between the colours. I'd say give it a shot, and see what you think. It's not too much effort to paint a couple extra stripes on a tank if you don't quite like how it came out!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks! Had a look through what paints I've got and I think I'm going to try one with Fenrisian Grey and Dark Reaper too.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Gave it a go and the basecoat is looking pretty good already! cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/467200545573306371/739912209089429554/20200803_192640.jpg
Chimeras definitely need going over with a brush though, lots of deep recesses!
EDIT: cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/467200545573306371/740121623855890482/20200804_091812.jpg cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/467200545573306371/740121624719654997/20200804_091836.jpg Powderbrushed as well, and I think it's looking cracking! Time to start applying decals and painting in the details.
I think I just found my painting technique 👍👍
Nice camo, but what is the name of the foam? I want to buy it in my online shop
Awesome video as always.
But... when I started this hobby I created a spreadsheet to keep track of how much I spend on this.
At this stage, 1 year in, my total spend is 10 times the price of the best airbrush and compressor combined. Just Dark Imperium and Soul Wars GW starter boxes almost get you there.
It's awesome that we can achieve these fantastic results without an airbrush, but if you can afford to waste money on plastic soldiers you can probably afford an airbrush. Maybe I'm wrong.
Well, sure! The comment wasn't so much on the price of airbrushes, more that I can always find another unit I'd want to add to an army - or start a whole new one! - than pick up a 'boring' tool, no matter how useful that might turn out to be. 😂
Very nicely done, decals???
Nice video! Do you have an Amazon affiliation link? Could be a simple way to support you
you are the best😃 thank you
Could I get away with GW Tuskagor fur for the reddy bits?
In theory, sure! They're very similar colours, so Tuskgor Fur will work fine as a replacement. A perfect colour match isn't so important, so don't worry about fudging a little to match what you've got. :)
I would love to see how you paint and base a 28mm Union and Confederate infantry figure.possibly my next project or it could be the sudan.cheers Stephen.....l😀👍
What do u do with all the things you paint? Curious. By the way, you sound like Roger Moore. 😊
They're slowly filling cabinets, shelves and cases... send help, I'm drowning in plastic, metal and resin. 🤣
Hello!
Do you still have STL file to that Panzer IV?
@@madtechnocrat9234 dzięki!
A wiesz może o dobrym Flamingu?
@@lepszykomentator Chodzi o różowego ptaka do ogrodu? Czy coś innego? Bo nazwa z niczym z I/II wojny mi się nie kojarzy. A na razie drukowałem sobie głównie z tego zakresu rzeczy + kilka przydatnych drobiazgów do domu.
@@madtechnocrat9234 flammpanzer na podwoziu Panzer II
@@lepszykomentator Polecam poszukać u tigerace widziałem tam sherman crocodile i churchill crocodile z przyczepami do miotaczy ognia więc jest spora szansa, że będzie.
@@lepszykomentator U m_bergman widzę że jest PZ III wersja Flamm, a także Flampanzer 38 więc pewnie "czeski".
Natomiast u TigerAce1945 jest w "Panzer II pack (revised)" Flammpanzer 2 więc zakładam, że będzie to to.
Was this done with an FDM printer?
This is a resin print. I've seen some very smooth FDM prints before, but I tend to prefer resin where possible.
The intor regarding the "right" colours for the tank reminds me of a bloke that would criticise that my German army doesnt have the exact correct colour code and that the regiment numbers I used were completely wrong and mimimimi, while in the meantime is entire fin army was primed ice blue and that's it XD I'd rather have a nice looking army on the table than spend half a year doing research trying to mimmick historically accurate colour schemes. I mean if that is kind of your thing, do it and enjoy it, but dont expect others to do the same or even worse bother them with it XD While the game is set in WW2 it deviates A LOT from actual historical events in favor of enjoyable gameplay, and that is perfectly fine, otherwise a Russian tank would cost 1// of a German tank and Russian infantry would cost 1/12 of a German infantry model and youd end up throwing hundreds of minis into the fray in order to have a chance against du in German forces, which , while sounding fun for a game or two, would become frustrating REAL quick.
You need some transfers on that bad boy
I'd need to buy some! Honestly, while it'd add a bunch to the miniature, I can still paint it without.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio the Warlord kits should come with some
Yeah, I don't have any! I'd need to buy some transfers. As mentioned, this is a 3D print - I could look into printing my own transfers on the appropriate paper, but then I'd need my actual paper printer to work as well. It's easier getting the magic goop machine working than that thing!
Soft tone vs agrax earthshade?
Go!...
It's not really a vs sort of comparison - they're different colours! Soft Tone is a slightly more pale brown/yellow, so it's really about picking what you prefer the look of. For a darker finish or darker colours to start with, I might switch to Strong Tone or Agrax Earthshade, but in this case the more pale tint works better with the Desert Yellow primer.
Good job, I love the idea of using a 3D printer.
Was there a base coat??
Desert Yellow, the primer spray from The Army Painter.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio ?? I have not a clue what "Army Painter" is??
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you, great job!!!
I would like one with anime characters from anime called girls und panzer
I always paint brush my 1/56 scale wargaming tanks.
Though I usually insist there isn't a 'right way' to do things, I do hold the best way is sometimes the classic! :D
Spray painters are cheaters.
Love these videos. Many thanks for them, keep it up.