Adjustments for the contractors saw varys from brand to brand and cabinet saws are different from contractors saws. Cabinet saws are aligned by moving the top. Aligning the miter slot to the blade. Contractors saws there should be adjustments on the motor to align the blade to the miter slot.
great video, thanks. I have the same saw, a great saw in my opinion. My riving knife is slightly out of alignment with the blade. Is there an adjustment for this? I’m guessing it’s just bent. I did buy the display at Lowe’s but a new model was coming out and I got a GREAT deal on it. As far as I can tell the riving knife is one problem and the only other thing is there are 2 pads on the fence where it hooks onto the rail, one is missing but I’ve already addressed that issue.
David If you look at the riving knife from the top with the insert removed, there are 4 allen bolts. The two bolts closest to the blade adjusts the pitch. The two farthest away from the blade lock it down. Installed a new zero clearance insert and saw mine was out of line. That's how I adjusted my knife.
Great video! I learned a ton already. I just bought a new 36-725 and my fence seems to move too much side to side and front and back when it isn’t locked. Maybe that’s normal. Also - are you taking all calibration measurements when it is locked down or do you take any unlocked just to check?
Thank you. I am glad you liked the video. The fence will move when it is not locked down and there is no calibration methods for an unlocked fence. When you place you fence for the desired cut, lock it down and there should be no movement. Depending on the quality of the saw and fence some will still have movement even after the fence is locked down. If there is adjustments on the fence you can try to remove the movement by reseting those adjustments. There are some fences that will not lose the movement or flex. All you can do is adjust and if it won't come out purchase another fence or a better saw. Hope this helps
The very first table saw I ever used was a rental from Home Depot and not only was the fence out of alignment, I made the #1 rookie mistake trying to use the fence as a guide for a crosscut. The saw kicked back a piece of wood into my garage door at about 90 mph. i’m lucky I wasn’t hurt. It was a good lesson - I am always extra careful. One question - do you have a jointer and have you calibrated that? I’m having a tough time with a benchtop unit that has 8 different leveling screws
I do have a jointer and honestly they do need calibrated from time to time. I don't know what your jointer is or how it is set up but if it has adjustments to calibrate the beds you will want the outfeed table set at a height level with the cutter head. You will want the outfeed and infeed tables co-planer to each other. You will need a good reliable straight edge to do this. I have been thinking about doing a video on do this but have not had the time to BUT there is several good videos on TH-cam for doing this. Marc at The Wood Whisper has a good one. Hope this helps
@@amirhouseingholinia2023 There is no advantage really for the saw's performance. The only reason to do it would be to balance the load of your breaker box. It will not give your saw any more power or make it any faster to convert it to 220
Remove the throat plate and I think there is some allen wrench fittings on the knife you can adjust. Never had to adjust mine so I'm not sure but I saw a comment before that mentioned it. Might check there first. If not you may have to straighten it if its bent
First I found that my locking lever wasn’t all the way down. Even with that down it was still slightly out of alignment. At that point I have it a good tug to bend it ever so slightly. It’s now perfect. Just cut some 3/8 wide rails for the cross cut sled I’m making. Also decided that 3/8 was a thing as I’ll ever go on that table saw. My push stick didn’t touch the blade but I was concerned.
I hate to be one of those guys that correct people on TH-cam, but dang it, here I go. What you say about the table top being misaligned with the saw, at around 4:30, is not entirely correct. I have this model, and dealt with this problem. Keep in mind that the delta 36 models are not “Cabinet saws.” Cabinets saw are when they have the saw assembly mounted to the Cabinet of the table, and are generally much more expensive, very heavy and much better. This is a contractor saw, with mainly means the saw assembly is mounted to the table. So if you tap the table around, the assembly will fallow. This particular saw, has counter sunk bolts and holes where the assembly attaches to the table top, so even if you try to adjust it there, it just goes back when you tighten the hardware. What makes the alignment off on these is the rods that the assembly slide up and down on, are held tight with hex cap screws. This rod can come off alignment. Run the blade down, and take off four screws that hold the dust cover above the motor, and the two cap screws will be exposed to the top left, if your on the motor side. The problem is trying the get it properly adjusted for whatever height of the blade you typically run at. This system seems janky and seems like it’s not the best way to mount this rod, definitely has to be the worse thing, to me, about this saw. However, it’s a 600 saw, not a 2500 dollar Unisaw.
I've been struggling with an uncalibrated Delta tables saw for 10 years! :( feel pretty dumb. Thanks for the video
Your suggestions to true up my fence worked! I have watched other videos trying to get the same thing accomplished and none of them worked. Thank you
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful
I just picked up a used saw like this and your instructions were great I'm going to follow this to get my new saw all SQUARED AWAY :-) Thanks
Maaaannnnnnnnn thank you o much. I swear I was about to buy a new table saw until I saw your video thank ya sir thank ya
You are welcome. Glad it was helpful.
This was exactly what I was looking for to check and line up my 36-725T2. Got everything all squared up properly. Thank you!
I am glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching
Good job, Tracy. You covered everything in a way that was easy to follow and understand.
Thanks for posting this. Stay safe.
Thank you sir. You have a safe Holiday season
Awesomeness!! Very instructional video thank you for this! I just subscribed and I’m looking forward to more videos!
Thank you
Thanks for making these adjustments so easy.
Hey Tracy....that was some great information buddy! Calibrating my table saw just made my to-do list :-)
Thank you I was almost ready to pitch mine but I followed you and she’s a keeper
Glad it helped
I have a makita table saw here in Chile and I really need to check mine. Thanks for the how too. Jim in Chile.
Thanks Jim. I am glad it was helpful and thanks for watching
Perfect! To the point and what I needed to know. THANKS!
Thank you
Just bought one and your vid helped alot as the manual does not show the adjustments screws so 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
So glad it was helpful. Thank you
Thanks for Table Saw 101 video. Nicely done! I wish you had shown any details on aligning the blade to the miter slot.
This guy does a good job of it: th-cam.com/video/pAbkraXsRhI/w-d-xo.html
Adjustments for the contractors saw varys from brand to brand and cabinet saws are different from contractors saws. Cabinet saws are aligned by moving the top. Aligning the miter slot to the blade. Contractors saws there should be adjustments on the motor to align the blade to the miter slot.
Thank your great video! Learned alot
Glad I could help
THANK YOU!!! This was very helpful!
Your welcome. I'm glad I could help.
This was the best video I’ve seen on this thank you very much! 👏👏
Thank you.
Fantastic video
Thank you
great video thanks man
Thank you.
Great video! very helpful!
great video, thanks.
I have the same saw, a great saw in my opinion. My riving knife is slightly out of alignment with the blade. Is there an adjustment for this? I’m guessing it’s just bent.
I did buy the display at Lowe’s but a new model was coming out and I got a GREAT deal on it. As far as I can tell the riving knife is one problem and the only other thing is there are 2 pads on the fence where it hooks onto the rail, one is missing but I’ve already addressed that issue.
Thank you for stopping by my channel. There is not an adjustment for the knife. It is probably bent a little. You can probably straighten it
David If you look at the riving knife from the top with the insert removed, there are 4 allen bolts. The two bolts closest to the blade adjusts the pitch. The two farthest away from the blade lock it down. Installed a new zero clearance insert and saw mine was out of line. That's how I adjusted my knife.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 thank you, this is what I was looking for.
Thank you, very informative
Do you run an extension cord on it? What gauge?
I do. I use a 15 ft cord and I think it's a 12 GA wire
very helpful thank you
Great video! I learned a ton already. I just bought a new 36-725 and my fence seems to move too much side to side and front and back when it isn’t locked. Maybe that’s normal. Also - are you taking all calibration measurements when it is locked down or do you take any unlocked just to check?
Thank you. I am glad you liked the video. The fence will move when it is not locked down and there is no calibration methods for an unlocked fence. When you place you fence for the desired cut, lock it down and there should be no movement. Depending on the quality of the saw and fence some will still have movement even after the fence is locked down. If there is adjustments on the fence you can try to remove the movement by reseting those adjustments. There are some fences that will not lose the movement or flex. All you can do is adjust and if it won't come out purchase another fence or a better saw. Hope this helps
The very first table saw I ever used was a rental from Home Depot and not only was the fence out of alignment, I made the #1 rookie mistake trying to use the fence as a guide for a crosscut. The saw kicked back a piece of wood into my garage door at about 90 mph. i’m lucky I wasn’t hurt. It was a good lesson - I am always extra careful. One question - do you have a jointer and have you calibrated that? I’m having a tough time with a benchtop unit that has 8 different leveling screws
I do have a jointer and honestly they do need calibrated from time to time. I don't know what your jointer is or how it is set up but if it has adjustments to calibrate the beds you will want the outfeed table set at a height level with the cutter head. You will want the outfeed and infeed tables co-planer to each other. You will need a good reliable straight edge to do this. I have been thinking about doing a video on do this but have not had the time to BUT there is several good videos on TH-cam for doing this. Marc at The Wood Whisper has a good one. Hope this helps
Can you convert this saw to 220 volt?
Yes you can. I havent mine but it will. There is instructions in the manual for doing it
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 what’s the advantage of 220v over 120v?
@@amirhouseingholinia2023 There is no advantage really for the saw's performance. The only reason to do it would be to balance the load of your breaker box. It will not give your saw any more power or make it any faster to convert it to 220
Thanks
My riving knife is out of alignment of my blade
Remove the throat plate and I think there is some allen wrench fittings on the knife you can adjust. Never had to adjust mine so I'm not sure but I saw a comment before that mentioned it. Might check there first. If not you may have to straighten it if its bent
First I found that my locking lever wasn’t all the way down. Even with that down it was still slightly out of alignment. At that point I have it a good tug to bend it ever so slightly. It’s now perfect. Just cut some 3/8 wide rails for the cross cut sled I’m making. Also decided that 3/8 was a thing as I’ll ever go on that table saw. My push stick didn’t touch the blade but I was concerned.
11:13
I hate to be one of those guys that correct people on TH-cam, but dang it, here I go. What you say about the table top being misaligned with the saw, at around 4:30, is not entirely correct. I have this model, and dealt with this problem. Keep in mind that the delta 36 models are not “Cabinet saws.” Cabinets saw are when they have the saw assembly mounted to the Cabinet of the table, and are generally much more expensive, very heavy and much better. This is a contractor saw, with mainly means the saw assembly is mounted to the table. So if you tap the table around, the assembly will fallow. This particular saw, has counter sunk bolts and holes where the assembly attaches to the table top, so even if you try to adjust it there, it just goes back when you tighten the hardware. What makes the alignment off on these is the rods that the assembly slide up and down on, are held tight with hex cap screws. This rod can come off alignment. Run the blade down, and take off four screws that hold the dust cover above the motor, and the two cap screws will be exposed to the top left, if your on the motor side. The problem is trying the get it properly adjusted for whatever height of the blade you typically run at. This system seems janky and seems like it’s not the best way to mount this rod, definitely has to be the worse thing, to me, about this saw. However, it’s a 600 saw, not a 2500 dollar Unisaw.
You are not the first to mention this. I have been meaning to correct the video.