Delta Unisaw Arbor Truing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Warning! Woodchuck action in this video. In this video we correct some excessive arbor runout on my new to me Delta Unisaw. The blade arbor has roughly .003 (.08mm) wobble that seemed excessive to me. I also show the method I remachine the arbor and how I aligned the table to the freshly machined arbor.
I know I did the repair on the arbor housing over 12 year’s ago. Knowing me I’m sure I probably used a little sleeve retainer.
Nice job Tom, that saw has probably never ran that true.
Guess I need to send you another sticker LOL
Hey Gary. I bet you did use some retainer on that. I really didn't want to heat the whole thing up. Yeah I think I'm going to need another sticker or two to abuse. Thanks for stopping by.
All the best,
Tom
As a former cnc machinery installer and current woodworking hobbiest , you are right to line up the t-slot as accurately as possible.
next of course is to pay even more attention to the fence alignment.
It is almost impossible to achieve perfect alignment of the fence, so the rule is to have the trailing edge of the blade
fall away from the fence, NEVER towards. if the gap closes this will cause kick back at worse and push back the rest the time.
0 to at most .005 is fine.
Edit : that would be over the full lenght of the fence and several locations, starting near the blade
I like .001-002 slightly out.
Hey Steve. The fence will be another exercise in patience and alignment tricks. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The easiest way to align the fence is with an indicator mounted to something that slides in the miter slot.
You might want to check the fence for straightness. I've worked with a lot of delta style ones that are bowed.
Wondering why was the casting holding the spindle and pulley so clean and of a different color than the other castings?
Also wondering why you thought you could press the spindle and bearings out when the pulley was still tight on the arbor?
Woodpecker equipment makes and sells a gig and gauge for the complete alignment you did and will be doing. Look up pictures in their add and perhaps you will want to make one for yourself as a project for your channel?
Keep up x the good work.
The program was interesting to say the least!
JIM ❤
@@oxtoolcoThe factory fence works well but I highly recommend checking out the Biesemeyer fence system. It may be overkill for whatever you intend to use the saw for, but the ease of use, accuracy and repeatability is a great upgrade to these old saws!!
Tom I was the one that suggested the Bear Crawl base. I agree with you that you can't justify building one for what they sell for. And as you note Grizzly's order fulfillment process is awesome.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
welcome to the wood side 😄. I don't use grease on my worms, or any part. I use teflon. it avoids clinging wood dust and flour. For that fence and top : Polish the top with a sand paper, continuing to get finer and finer, then use paste wax. For the fence, you might be better off with either a melamine side plate, or self stick hdpe to provide a nice smooth surface. May the wood be with you.
Also checkout team mclube sailkote. It’s awesome on cast iron tops and saw blades.
I agree that grease is not to be used inside a tablesaw. I use Panef Stick Lubricant. Stays dry and works great. Google seems to suggest that it's sold by AGS now.
grease and woodworking tools do not play well together. I have had good luck with paste wax for all the adjusting screws and the top.
Some dry silicone lube will be fine, but grease... no no...
Hey J. That is probably good advice. I was thinking that is a really messy area under there and minimal grease was in order. I'll find some dry teflon lube and try it out. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
You had us holding our breath with that tool clearance! 😃
Hey Jose. Yes that was pretty snug in there. Just don't make any sudden movements when you are in tight quarters. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Know someone that was trained as a machinist in the late 50s and worked many years in the industry. His hobby was more wood working than any kind of metal working, but the accuracy required for metal working was always on display in the woodwork. There was even a dial indicator on the planner, because that last 0.010" is critical when getting a piece of oak down to size😀. Some of the nicest stuff I've seen came from that shop!!! CAn't wait to see your next wood project!! Great solution to avoid having to weld up a casting. Thanks for video chuck.
From one woodchuck to another, now you need to align the fence to the miter slot and/or blade.
I've been watching your videos for some years now. I've transferred a lot of your knowledge to my woodworking. Thanks for that. Just last month I went through the exercise of aligning my table saw, and due to your influence I was not happy until I had sub-thou alignment.
Hey Brian. Thanks for the nice comment. Next up will probably be mounting the Biesmeyer fence to the saw then aligning the rip fence to the blade.
Cheers,
Tom
I have been a woodworker for over 60 years and have never once had an indicator on my saw, guess I never thought about it. My Unisaw is a 1999 version and it is dead on accurate, they make a great piece of equipment. Great video.
Hey Dan. Well don't start now with the indicator. You might open up a can of worms. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Aligning the top to the blade and then the fence to both of them is primary for safety. If the fence gets tight on the outfeed side it will be easy to kickback. It looks like it is cutting fine.
Hey David. My feeling right now is the fence may be a little tight on the outfeed. It seems to produce some additional slight cutting as I pass the blade centerline. I will most likely take the Delta fence off pretty soon. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I’m a wood worker and did the same thing. Precision is good
hey there Mr. Whizzard why not remove the nut holding the spindle in place and the set screw on the sheave then try the press?
Hey Tom, I was originally a woodworker before I got lost down the machining rabbit hole. After spending the past decade outfitting my metalworking equipment, I can report that I've never stopped working wood, too. I was lucky enough to find a European, 5-function machine: a Robland X31 sliding table saw, jointer, planer and shaper combo that also has a mortising attachment. My ability to level & adjust this wonderful machine has been greatly enhanced by my machining experience. The best work I've done is when I combine woodworking & precision metal work. I hope you find as much enjoyment as I have and continue to.
BTW - shapers are unbelievable. I also have a power feeder and got really lucky on quite a few auctions for Rangate and Garniga shaper cutters. The stuff that's possible without ever being anywhere near the blade is remarkable. I can load stock into a magazine and sequentially feed parts past the cutter and into a bin. The depth of cut and speed are all held rigidly constant using a 4-wheel power feeder. It's amazing how quickly you can achieve flawless results.
Hey Patrick. I totally agree that trades have a lot to learn from one another. Cross pollination is a powerful combination. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Wow that is probably as accurate as that arbor has been the whole life of the saw. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hey Harold. Nothing like killing it completely. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great video. I appreciate your methodical approach to dialing it all in. I have a 1944 Unisaw. The fence isn’t as fancy as the upgrades that I’m seeing in the comments but mine has been fine. I measure at the blade as a habit and always will, even if I dropped $500 on a high end upgrade.
Thing about these larger commercial grade saws is they benefit greatly from an industrial rip blade with the wider kerf and wider plate. The thin guys like diablos from home depot are great for small or portable saws. But a real cabinet saw with the heft and the motor to turn the bigger blade get far far smoother cuts especially thru hardwoods and stuff. I think its just a more rigid setup, as the chip-slingers would say. Surely you can relate :-)
I agree completely!
However, that run out Tom had is a finish killer no matter the blade.
Hey truck. I agree. I picked up a thin kerf blade at Lowes just so I had something fresh. I will most likely mount a nice Forrest blade when I can find one for a decent price. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Ridge Carbide make some excellent blades too
There was a set screw on the pulley Tom ☺️
Dude, Tom. You're killing me with that sticker placement. Please do a follow up vid where you line it up.✌️
Hey Hobbies. It either has to be dead straight or way the heck off. There is no in between. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
North america's most accurate delta saw. watched it as were it a movie. thanks for sharing Tom. cheers.
As a professional wood worker who has done this same job of alignment, I use my 12" rule and a blade that I know is true. After I get it close, I spin the blade to a few different positions and measure to make sure there's no error. You don't need it any closer than what you can perceive with your eye, or around 0.010". The vibrations of the machine, the blade, the play in your jig, and everything else will matter more.
However, having a bad arbor can cause serious blade issues, binding, rough surface finish, etc. This is far more important than alignment of the table and greatly improves blade efficiency.
Hey Throw. I didn't want to introduce any blade or mounting errors into the measurement. It was fun to fuss around and dial the whole thing in. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice job Tom, no kill like overkill! I just got an e-mail from woodpecker selling their align-a-saw setup for doing what you just did. Where I used to work we had a system, forgot who made it, but it had a ground blank you installed on the arbor and an indicator holder that you slid in the miter slot...
Hey Bill. I was thinking about all kinds of alignment tooling to build when I was doing this. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The Woodpecker stuff is next level.
Nice work.
There probably never was a closer one.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
I've been a cabinetmaker for 40 years, and rebuilt a 1974 model Unisaw in the 1990s, long before I dove into hobby machining. At the time, my only precision tool was a dial indicator. I had the same amount of runout as your saw had, but no tools to easily deal with it. What I ended up doing was powering the arbor up out of the cabinet using a spare electric motor. I then used a 4" disc grinder that was clamped on a heavy board and slid it slowly up to the blade hub. I was quickly able to get results to under .001 runout. Definitely sketchy stuff!
The stamped blade washer on my saw was also warped, and I was able to flatten it adequately by rubbing it on sandpaper that was on the flat tablesaw top. Now that I have a lathe and surface grinder, I've always thought about making a precision washer, but haven't gotten around to it. Maybe some day.
Hey Jack. I would have loved to see that operation. I did have the thought of trying to do the correction in place but quickly gave up on that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I think the flange is press fit on the shaft, which goes out in the other direction after unscrewing the bearing retaining ring. But truing it up in situ worked fine.
Hey Jon. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I was initially thinking you were going to mount this up and drive the sheave and grind the face of the arbor washer. I imagine that would have taken longer to set up perhaps. Great work!
Hey Thomas. That would work as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Yes, that's where I thought it was going. Good of Tom to think up something even more sketchy
What a good job on getting that table saw dialed in👍😉 I completely understand chasing 3 thousandths run out. With machinists things are always not good enough lol😄 Can always be made better 😊
You got the job done. Next time, if there is one, you need to remove the set screws in the pulley, then the nut on the end of the shaft and then keyed washer and the spanner nut.
BLUE MOLY! My day is complete! I also am diggin' the "time to do some sketchy stuff".............. great vid Tom! I have to laugh though, I dabble in both wood and metal, and your machinist tendencies are an order of magnitude above what is required for wood butchery! Rock on!
Hey Tom. Yeah that blue moly got out of control pretty quick! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
We are going to have to start calling you Norm now!😄
Delighted to see that you have your camera set to manual focus and not auto as favoured by many others. Nothing more annoying than seeing it push and pull when various objects come into frame. A wee tip for you, most folks have trouble with glare on their indicator crystals, appreciate you toning it down a bit. Try a light dusting of hair spray to produce a translucent but matt surface.
Hey 6. Auto focus for these kinds of videos is a nightmare. The indicators are another issue. Tried many things that don't work. The green film on the face of the larger indicator works OK. What does not work at all is any kind of polarizing filters or films. I reduce the exposure sometimes when I see the indicator face blowing the image out. I appreciate you noticing the effort! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Now you know, Gary would have done all that disassembly and assembly in his sandals. If your really going to pay tribute to Gary and his machinery you need to be near barefoot when moving heavy machinery. :):)
All good, I watch Gary's videos when he puts them out and enjoy them very much.
A great video as always and man that rain on the roof requires some mastery to deal with, I might just be snoring out in that workshop.
all the best
Scott
Hey Scott. I'll have to get some Old Iron Machine Works tribute sandals for all the woodworking videos. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom had it happen to my dad couldn't get straight cuts from rented cabinet saw ,he went through every one at rental place, so we fixed the best one doing proper initial set up turns out a shim was installed backwards at the factory. Every one this rental place had purchased had the same flaw. Anyway I have lived in both worlds metal precision and 1/64" close enough wood working guess I'm a glutton for punishment
Hey Doc. Half the fun is fussing around like this. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good video. Tuned up many saws for my woodworker friends. Always drove me crazy that those arbors were 'so far off'. I always re-turned or touched up the pulleys while I was at it. I like the tramming idea and the jacking screw. Would have saved many frustrating hours and bloody knuckles.
Hey Paul. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I bet you will be glad when the drought finally breaks.
I've been a woodworker for over 50 years and there is one thing I would say to a new woodworker it's this...SLEDS ARE YOUR FRIEND! I heard you mention in a previous video that you're not used to getting your fingers so close to spinning blades, well, a table saw sled solves that problem. I have several different types and I keep my big one on my saw at all times. Only when ripping is it removed.
Hey Rick. I have been watching sled videos for a week now. Zeroing in on the design features I think I want in mine. Definitely on the short list. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I'm sure someone below already mentioned this but the usual way to even up the blade with the T slot is to mount a blade and mark ONE tooth. Swing the blade and measure to the T slot from the plate beside the marked tooth at each extreme just before the tooth falls below the table. Blade is dialed up as high as it can go for this procedure. By using the same tooth you ensure you're not bringing any runout into the picture.
Mind you, with your long extended dial you're replicating the blade diameter so 3/4 of a thou is way beyond what is actually needed for your Unisaw.... Sweetness it is.....
You WILL notice a nice improvement when doing ripping cuts with the saw drive collar being trued up like you did. I get nice smooth "glue ready" rip cuts on my saw and it's got roughly .002 to .003 of runout at the rim of the disc just inside of the teeth gullets. Your blade is likely at least as tight as that given your maybe 1/4 to 1/3 thou at the rim of the drive collar. The finish is a combo of low blade runout and being nicely set parallel to the T slot and the rip fence similarly being set true to the T slot.
Hey Bruce. The blade seems too flexible at full radius to make measuring it easy. I did see that in the Delta manual after I aligned mine. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Well done, sir. Next thing you know, you'll be doing segmented wood turning! Thanks for the arbor walk-through. I wonder what my saw measures out as?
Hey Sidetrack. Slap an indicator on it and see. I thought that .003 was a little too much at that small of a mounting diameter. We will see if it translates into nicer cutting. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good video,Tom and really solid tablesaw.I never thought of cheking the alignment of the arbor in my Delta tablesaw after so many years of good experiance with it but I´l suggest to keep in mind that real wood is a live material and that have some humidity and may be still green and it may have a lot of tension within and bind.What I don´t like about that saw is that you have to have your face infront of the incoming running blade when you turn it off.Thank you.
Hey Angel. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I realise that the jokes about woodworkers VS metalwork is just that ,good natured humour😁
How many people outside of the plastic molding industry, realise that until the mid 80'S,
before it became a metal part, molds started out as beautiful mahogany carving (pattern)?
the mahogany carving was covered in a protective paint coating and then placed on a large
bed mill duplicating machine, along with a block of tool steel. think very larger chest freezer
for a car bumper skin. stylus of various diameters and matching endmills would then trace the pattern
until the necessary metal was removed.
as an aside to that, in a period of less than 10 years mold making mills when from hydraulic duplicators
to being retrofitted with electronic stylus ,to removing the stylus, because 3d software became usable
and reliable , to replacing bed mills with horizontal boring mills because they were less costly and
because the chips fell out of the workpiece and into a chip conveyer (there are a LOT of chips in a bumper mold).
Good luck with the jet fence, I suspect you will need it.
Even the beismeyer style is a significant improvement.
The Unifence is the underated gold standard. Astronomical price these days.
Not that I've been super impressed with Grizzly, but 100% agree with your comments about Northern tool. They take for absolute ever to ship anything. I needed some air fittings for my rapid air set up, and ended up buying them on NT website.. 4 weeks later and the parts showed up in the mail like a couple of stray dogs. I ended up getting pissed buying the parts locally (for more money), then later taking the NT parts back to the store after they showed up.... I know that back in the day 6-8 weeks was industry standard for shipping, but lets face it, we've all been spoiled by amazon... waiting a month on anything just won't cut it anymore.
"Time to do some sketchy stuff" lol first thing I thought of involved a strap and the bumper of a pickup truck.
I love this video Tom. It's so informative, and sketchy!
Hey Dot. Gotta love me some sketch! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
As I'm watching Tom true up this saw, I remembered his video from 6 years ago where he was making flat lapping plates. And in my head, I saw him with two more of these saws, getting the tables perfectly flat. The thing is... it didn't strike me as absurd.
Hey Pete. You might be one to something......Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I once helped a woodworker with the runout on his table saw. I bolted an angle plate and a linear slide, like a compound, so that the travel went on a line through the axis, then attached a makeshift boring bar type setup with a carbide lathe tool. This reached down through the cutout in the top, and I was able to turn on the saw and plane a few thousandths off the rim of the flange. It was a janky setup, and screeched like the dickens. But it took off enough to make the blade run much truer, if not perfect. Another idea would have been to do a similar setup with a hobby tool and a small grinding stone, take it slow and see what happens. I wouldn't do it again that way, but he was happy with the result. Those flanges are hard steel.
Hey Michael. Good point. I didn't test the flange to see if it was hard. That would make some sense why my tool was squealing. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I contacted the engineers at Delta about acceptable spindle / arbour runout when I rebuilt my Unisaw (30 years). They told me ± 2 thousands was their quality control standard. They also told me that while additional runout would increase the incidence of saw tooth marks it would not necessarily effect the accuracy or utility of the saw. I guess if you plan to plane the wood after it is cut then saw tooth marks may simply disappear.
Grind inplace using motor and quadrant to move disc past a fixed grinder
I'm impress you didn't involve the surface grinder somehow. I think another sketchy method of honing in the runout is a rotary tool with a grinding bit moved into the saw plate contact ring while you have the arbor spinning via the saw motor and the grinding bit spinning via the rotary tool. This is usually done just removing the blade and cover without disassembling the saw. Good luck on the wood side. Beware the rabbit hole of woodworking hand tools... bridge city tools makes some nice machined hand tool porn but they sold out to some overseas company. Sauer and steiner make some stuff that might be up your alley for inspiration of great tools you could machine.
In my experience 1/4 to 1/2 a thou run out is great. Most of my saw blades have some run out and you can use the run out in the driver to cancel some of the run out in the blade.
I have a similar era Powermatic 65 that had similar runout issues. I ended up re-grinding my arbor flanges in-situ using a die grinder on a solid arm Noga indicator stand. My lathe doesn't have a big enough bore to chuck the whole arbor which is why I went that route...it worked great but was a little tedious. I also made myself an alignment plate out of a piece of precision ground 1/4" aluminum plate - you can buy them commercially, too. The alignment plate goes on the arbor like a blade, then the indicator is mounted to a little sled that runs in the miter slot instead mounting it on the arbor. It's much less annoying that way, you just run the indicator back and forth along the alignment plate.
Hey Nick. You might want to check that aluminum plate. MIC 6 plate is typically not that flat for us metal heads. I see the utility of doing it that way however. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I checked it, it was flat enough for the job. Came in a 2-pack and one was good, the other less so. The other important thing to calibrate is your fence parallelism...this is where the Biesemeyer wins out in spades. Maybe the older Delta fences were better but the pipe fence I had on an 80's Delta was utter crap at staying consistently parallel w/. the blade.
Cheers, love that you're posting videos again. Great stuff.
You need to create “the wheel of suggestions”, give it a spin and that is your next table saw upgrade video!!…IMO, great knowledge is contained in the comments…KOKO
Hey Chuck. I agree. The comments are where you get great ideas. Thanks for stopping by buddy.
All the best,
Tom
NO BS!!! Return to the previous episode for toms take on personal safety !!! 😂🤣 tell the neighbors to put on their safety squints!! It’s also hard to see in the footage but Tom was standing in a bucket of water with a hair dryer during the lathe operation😂🤣
Two verify the squareness and perpendicularity, look up the 5-cut method to verify fence and miter guage accuracy.. The numbers NEVER lie!!
I have rebuilt a number of old table saws Powermatic ,Delta Unisaws up to 16 inch Northfield and Fay & Egan. The best way I have found to true arbor face is after rebuild with new bearings I assemble all the way to putting table on the mount a tool post grinder on cabinet with a cup wheel then running the saw with out a blade but a small sleeve with nut pushing against the flange the raise the saw blade with crank facing flange usually can get run out within .0002.
Hey Terry. That sounds like an excellent method. Truing as an assembly it the best way to do it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hello Tom, actually, machinist make very good/ excellent woodworkers; imagine that!! All we do is move the fence out of the way, mount preferably, a good carbide blade, mark any tooth with an X... put your Starrett combination square in the miter slot, raise the blade, then rotate your blade backwards... so not to damage your starrett blade, rotate saw blade front to back, till marked tooth touches the square blade equally!! Check your fence, to make sure it's also parallel, it's much better if you have the rear end of your fence, .015 wider at rear, to prevent binding... two bolts on rear top of fence though!! Lastly, you can check squareness of your fence, by placing your square on saw top 90 degree's to your fence, to check for squareness!! ( not too important) You're now owner of the only Unisaw with zero runout!! Congrats... you made it!! P. S. Unplug the saw first, always though!!
Hey Newton. I saw that method in the Delta manual after I did my alignment! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Not sure if you noticed the set screws in the valley of the v-belt grooves.. Loosen them, there are shims either side of the pulley to space the bearings, slips out like "buttah"..
All good. A couple of hints:
Did you remove the set screw(s) in the base of the pulleys before you cranked on the spindle? Did you test the spindle itself for straightness? Probably unimportant, but if you have a problem later... Arbor bearings are the only thing that's ever gone out in my 50 year old Uni, BTW.
I believe you said you had a Biesemeyer fence? Replace that PITA Delta fence with the Biesemeyer! It's much easier to align and to make accurate, and it comes with both metric and inch on the same scale. You won't regret it. And you'll have a nice pair of tubes to put into stock! You can get as perpendicular as you wish, just make sure the outfeed side is a smidge, really, just a smidge, wider than the infeed side. A smidge the other way can cause some problems you don't want to deal with.
To align with slot put in a 10" blade, mark a point on it, measure infeed side, swing it over and measure outfeed side, fewer intervening variables.
Unless you do a lot of specialty wood work, cabinetry and the like, original Uni's are the most reliable, accurate, and affordable saws you can buy. Make a sled for it (~1/4 aluminum plate works well), and get some outfeed rollers, et voila!
That small part cabinet you showed in the previous vid? They work great, I have an uncountable number of the things! Harbor Freight sells clear plastic boxes/trays that work well enough and are cheap.
25 years a boat builder and patternmaker, then discovered computers... Now retired and a hobby machinist learning the trade.
Hey Kate. Yeah I got the set screw out. Just didn't happen to show it on camera. Probably should have mentioned it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco And the one behind the first one? There should be two stacked set screws. It shouldn't be that hard to drive the arbor out. But nevermind, you had a great alt-solution.
Still, that arbor should come out fairly easily. If that bottom set screw was in while you (gently I assume) pounded on the arbor there may now be some slop between the pulley and the arbor... Which will get worse... Good lord Kate! Such a worrywart I am. Every job I do requires two other jobs and a day's worth of overthinking before I can get to it.
Oh, and there should be a mount for a splitter aligned with the blade, and swap out that fence.
Just use the damn saw, have fun, and don't lose any fingers!
nice to see you doing some machining Tom!
I was relieved to see that I remembered how! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
HO NO!! Not the dark side. Please no not the wood stain no no no please no. As a fellow metalhead I also dislike wood take the wrong cut and start over with steal you can just weld it back together. That looks like the best built wood saw ever i can see why you like it. Great now i need 1 thanks a lot pal:) p.s luv ur stuff i could watch you make a paper plane and would enjoy it. Thx for the time you take to teach. I'm sitting at the front of the class. I will mail you an apple from Alaska to put on ur desk it will arrive in a few months :0
Come join me and we will rule the dark side together....
Thank you for the heads-up on your mobile base price. The local-to-me store has it on sale, along with the extension for my extension table. Oh, was that a cameo appearance of Mr. Bozo at about 9:00 in?
I did this repair on a saw without disassembling it. Just ran the saw without a blade and touched a stone to the arbor washer squarely units the job was done, built in table saw lathe…
I was hoping you'd clamp a compound to the table and true that hub @ 4,000 RPM without even removing it from the saw, à la warped brake rotor. Thanks for meeting me half way.
Back in the day. 003 run out was normal for these. Quality in the 70s on woodworking machinery was very sloppy. We took brand new machines apart and trued them up. It was not unusual to file out the adjusting slots on the base to get the table properly aligned. We trued up arbor flanges in place using a coarse whetstone
Hey Dan, I would be interested to see what the runout is on a new factory Unisaw at the arbor. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@oxtoolco Tom, I got out of that business quite a while ago, and I don't have access to a comparable new saw. However, keep in mind, saw blades turn at 3600 + rpms, screaming fast by machine shop standards. They tend to spin stabilize and flatten out as they spin up. I have an old Grizzly that cuts very well with run of the mill blades. Even Harbor Freight's better blades are quite good and will produce very nice cuts . I have a small factory in Iowa (20 people) doing precision screen printing on bottles and mugs. I all of our printing machines in my basement work shop using my table saw, a mini mill and lathe. I have a center guided rip fence on the Grizzly by Incra with a micrometer adjustment and routinely hold. 010 or better. The machines are mostly 3/4" paper phenolic, which is as good as aluminum but easy to cut on the saw. I use it like a horizontal mill. Btw, when aligning the saw top to the arbor, use a good blade and mark the spot where you indicate relative to the miter slot. Then rotate the blade so you always indicate using the same spot. This takes care of any blade wobble. Happy woodchucking!
I learned along the way (From a Machinist turned WoodChuck) that the saw blade is a really thin gyroscope. Any arbor run-out translates to wibly-wobly waves that makes for uneven force required to push the wood.
Hey Bruce. Hey! I resemble that remark. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Fella you got this from is probably watching this video yelling at his screen “I COULD NEVER FIGURE OUT WHERE THE RUN OUT CAME FROM!!!”
Nope. no yelling at the screen.
On a table saw, the fence is the key to happy woodworking.
Runs smooth now….. 👍👍😎👍👍 A little dose of Lipton English improves everything.
Hey Joel. I need to figure out how to get this English in a tube and sell it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
This reminded me of a long time ago, before I even knew what a machinist was. Laid some cinder block for a fence for a machinist friend. He was complaining to me that over 20', it was a 1/4" inch off. For real. Seems like a over kill for a unisaw, LOL Later in life he went with me to look at a lathe to purchase.
Hey Frank. 1/4 inch? Holy smokes that's a mile off. I would have torn the whole thing down. We do things at work here that are a 1/4 inch over several miles. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I had to lift my unísaw table by myself last month and was wondering how much it weigh. Thanks!
Hey Lucas. You are stronger that I am! The older I get the better my material handling equipment gets. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The parts diagram shows a set screw at the center of the pulley. It looks to me that it is a locking screw to secure the pulley to the shaft. Bet it lines up with the keyway?
Nice hanging out in shop with you, Tom. Nice fix, just don’t add a DRO to the fence 😂
Hey Rex. How did you know I was thinking about that already? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Because if I got a high quality table saw, I would try 😂. At least check and see how feasible it is.
I'm assuming you loosened off those set screws on the pully before you tried to press out the arbour right?
Just wondering if there were some set screws in the pullies holding the shaft?
Is there a piece broken off that casting?
When you had it in the lathe, there seemed to be a rough edge, on the right hand side of the screen, near the rack teeth.
Blue Moly….. “Just a Dab ‘ll Do yer…..”
Nor Cal getting some serious rain …hope it fills your reservoirs..
I certainly proved that one. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
It sure knows how to rain in North California.
Did the shaft not press out because of the set screw in the pulleys?
Nice touch at the end😂
I'm probably off on this one but is there a pin going through that pulley and shaft? (can't seem to shake it off thinking about it) 🤔
The problem with being a machinist, turn into woodworking. We tend to put indicators on our table saws. Good or bad that’s what we like the do.
Hey MKE, If the only tool you have is an indicator then everything looks like a wobble. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Are you going to scrape the table next? 😊😊😊😊
Two of the wood shops I work in have a whole slew of tools that could benefit from some alignment. Since most of the work isn't very accurate (theatrical sets), no one cares if tools are off a little, but it drives me crazy because I'm used to working with metal.
Didn't the pulley have a set screw in it, which is why you couldn't push the shaft off?
Stupid question, but @12:23 it is not clear whether or not the set screw in the pulley has been removed or not. If not, that would explain the difficulty you had trying to remove the arbor shaft. This set screw secures the pulley and a shaft key on the arbor shaft.
Hey Arlen. Yes the set screw was fully removed. Probably should have mentioned it on camera. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
did you remove set screw from pully
the set screw in the pully ?
The logical part of my brain knew that lathe setup would work but every fiber in my being was screaming "don't do it".
What about blade tilt alignment? Is there adjustment on that? It affects much more on the angle being cut on the wood. Directional misalignment change cutting edge from straight to slightly curved, but hardly measurable on wood.
Hey Tero. Ideally the alignment would be through the full range of available adjustments on the saw. Have not thought about checking it as it tilts or at full angle. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Slip a washer or plate into gap use pinch bolt as jack
Tom.. put some splitting/riving knife on that machine.
Kickback is one of the most dangerous part of table saw (except of course hand in the wrong place).
Next time on Ox Tools... Tom scrapes in the top of his table saw!
hi tom, great video.. it looks like there was a nut on the end you were pressing on.. there looks to be two slots on an inner ring.. could it be to add preload on the bearings? i reckon you could unscrew that and then press it out.. just my £0.01.. 🙂
Hey M. That is a bearing retainer nut. Not required to remove to get the arbor out. The arbor is one diameter all the way through. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Just wait until he checks the runout on the carbide tips of his saw blade, this might be a new series!😄
Hey Craig. Dang it! Now I will have to check them. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good Morning Tom, 500 view as and 100 comments! That’s awesome. To jack things like that I try to stick a washer in the gap and thread the screw from the backside to impinge the washer edge and push on the through hole bit. Assuming access. I need to make a set of those wedges. Hard steel or Acetal ??
Hey Cogent. Go back and watch when I take the jacking bolt out. Guess what great minds think alike. A washer comes out. Thanks for the comment. On the wedges a discriminating craftsman has both.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco “Discriminating Craftsman”. I’ll need to make a pair soon if only for buddy points! 😉
and here I thought you would put the assembly under a grider and drive it via belt to get that extra precision
As a machinist i have personally machined several tools to the point that they may as well be wood.
is that rain?
I used an indicator to line up the miter slots but didn't check the arbor flange, now there is no escaping doing so. :)
Hey Mike. Sorry to cause you some work. Its fun work so you should be fine. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, does the saw have a riving knife. IMHO, it’s more important than anything else you could do.
That was great!