Seller Scammed Me On This Rare 2-Stroke Dirt Bike (First Ride)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I rebuild a 1982 Yamaha yz125 dirt bike and take it for the first ride. #Yamaha, #DirtBike, #Fix,
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Bore gauge to check roundness in cylinder and check power valve for any signs of contact. The only things I can think of.
A bore gauge is pretty expensive. You can use just normal Mics, and telescoping gauges to do the same thing. Bore gauges are better for production though, (and probably a tiny bit more accurate if both are used properly), as they are faster, and take less skill to use. Neither are used to check the power valve. But you have 36 likes anyway. That is how sharp the new generation is. You did not have a machine shop in your HS like I did though, (and a life long machinist here because of that HS shop), as they were pulled out of our HS after 1981, when our federal government gave our free enterprise to communism in china. You see how we were ripped off?
The big difference between a telescoping gauge and a bore gauge is telescoping gauges to not give you numbers, so you measure them after you sweep the bore, and measure them with the OD mics. The bore gauge gives you a direct reading, where a telescoping gauge is called a "comparison gauge". That is what may give the bore gauge a bit more accuracy. But if both are used properly, only by about +or- .0001"
Dont come on here rambling on and belittling the younger generation for trying new things and learning to work on their own bikes you weird old man! Get outta here go have a nap. Ffs@EarthSurferUSA
@@EarthSurferUSAThe commenter recommends a powervalve check as an additional suggestion, its not linked to the bore gauge measuring/cyl ovality.
@EarthSurferUSA Still doesn't service manual specify allowable out of round, taper and piston to bore clearance? I don't know of any high schools with an automotive machine shop, not too many community colleges either. I went to Ferris State College in Michigan where they offered a certificate program in Automotive Machine. There were not many places offering anything similar. So if your high school offered that, I am jealous.
I agree it is a mistake for schools to not offer shop classes but that is your local school board not federal government. My opinion, we need to get apprentice programs established to teach trades like plumbing, electrical, auto repair, etc. These are good paying jobs, people in short supply. You shouldn't have to go to college to get these skills.
Thank you youtube at least diy folks can watch a video.
Several previous commenters have touched on the likely issue(s). The bore is way oversize from stock. The port edges originally are chamfered to prevent catching the ring. Likely when it was bored (or honed, see below) the chamfer was eliminated and not recreated. Also ports can only get so wide before the ring falls into them no matter what you do - that's why at a certain point an exhaust bridge is implemented. The ports in this cylinder have likely widened due to the degree of overbore, making the chamfer situation worse.
It is likely the cylinder is out of round and may also have straightness issues, especially if most of the oversize was created with a hone rather than boring bar. The amount of material a hone removes is affected by the amount of cylinder wall it contacts - so the bore will grow in areas of the cylinder that have a lot of port area, and thus less wall area, hurting straightness even if it is still round. I've not seen this wear the rings funny, but it sure will place an upper bound on compression and therefore power.
It is also possible the power valve is contacting the ring, but I think you'd have ugly scars on the piston if that was the case.
Overall you've been pretty lucky to this point in not evaluating cylinder straightness and the crosshatch and roughness your honing technique produces. I'd recommend picking up a dial-bore gage so you can measure precisely and slowing your drill way down when you hone to achieve a more optimal crosshatch angle. It's also non-trivial to create the proper roughness with a hand hone, even a Sunnen portable one, much less brake-cylinder hone types. Luck only goes so far.
You can also get a better feel for roundness and straightness with a telescoping gage and appropriately-sized outside micrometer, but you can probably pick up a used dial-bore gage of adequate quality about as cheaply as a good set of snap gages and outside micrometers. Dial-bore gauge is the way to go, it's much quicker and more precise.
This all comes from a guy with a lot of 2-stroke engine building experience, including a lot of cylinder measuring and honing.
I M GUESSING IT NEEDS ANOTHER DIFFERENT CYLINDER AND NEW PISTON AND RING.
@@shartne A new cylinder is probably going to be cheaper than re-sleeving this one. But by the time you buy a new piston too, it might be close. Definitely need a new ring. This sort of calculus depends on if you have a quality machine shop nearby that charges reasonable rates. But I agree a fresher cylinder with matching piston and ring is a more straightforward fix than remedying this one's ills. By the time you get to 3mm over you are in sketchy territory.
This guy hones!
Time to step up your game, get the bore guage and do the measurements and practices as he described. Win!
Yup I've been saying this all along. He's been putting new pistons in out of round cylinders for years now
Not sure what a snap gage is but checking for roundness and taper of the cylinder bore is standard practice in automotive. If this cylinder was honed oversize by hand its hard to imagine it can be round and free of taper. The other thing Joe does is check ring gap in one location and assume it is the same up and down the cylinder, bad assumption. Still low compression doesn't explain all the symptoms Joe talked about so I am waiting to see final solution.
Bottom line if you want to be a good engine builder you need micrometers and the ability to measure accurately at 10,000 th of an inch. Both piston and cylinder need to be checked in multiple locations to find problems and confirm piston size matches the bore size.
"look how big that gap is" ..... I've said that once or twice in my life. LOL
Is it in ?
Like throwing a hotdog down a hallway
Big is subjective.
Oh, you're a welder?!🤣
@@christopherprisco8690 1/4" 7018 ain't fillin those gaps. lol
I would put my money on the fact that when you honed the cylinder you didn't chamfer the ports when you hone a cylinder you're essentially making the edge of the port sharp you need to take a Dremel and round that edge so that when the ring slides by it's not like a razor going past the ring all the time it's a nice smooth transition that's I would say 95% sure that's what caused it these older bikes are a little less forgiving if everything's not right they'll start breaking down quick
LISTEN TO THIS GUY!
The unintentional razor's edge is shaving the piston ring. Excellent hypothesis.
That was my first thought. Only thing that could shave down that ring that fast
I thought as long as the port width rule was followed and the rings are pinned then it didnt matter and shouldn't be a problem?
Could not have said it better myself. That was my train of thought as well.
Bore could be out of round and you may need to chamfer the ports! Definitely invest in a bore gage!
I had a yz 80, same year, bored 20 over - that was an angry bike, whipping around sand pits as a teenager was a dream.
Check the edges of the ports. Some uncertain cylinders become sharpened and can catch the ring. I’ve taken a Dremel very carefully with a sanding bit to work it smooth.
Ring may be catching the ports or your bores out of round . Try measuring top ,middle an bottem in ypur bore..or your crank could be coming apart ..good luck
At this stage your patience is the stuff legends are made. Well done
he's a great example for young people his age
Seller watching this just laughing
I am shocked at how much patience he has had with motors lol.
@@BeauNeeley definitely, me and my room mates started to do this stuff after watching his videos
Lol...
Go back and look at the sequence where you drained some fuel into the clear container. There appears to be no mix in the gas.
That’s the same thing I noticed
After seeing him drain that, I immediately was like, "yeah, it's clean fuel with no oil mix."
Ya I thought the same thing it looked like straight gas he may have grabbed the wrong can ?
Same noticed that too
He always runs 40:1 that's why it looks more clear
I know you want to keep the cost down, but I noticed it on a couple of videos now
Normally if you change to a new sprocket you should do the front and back and a new chain.
Now you run a worn and stretched chain on the new back sprocket which will ruin the new sprocket a lot faster.
But again I understand you want the cost down.❤
I agree u are 100 percent right I just did mine on yz125 2003 I bought steel sprokets on ebay for 34 bucks for both an bought new chain at bike store 74 bucks so
sprocket wont last a month change all or none!!!!
An old chain on a new sprocket is the least of his worries right now pin head .
This dude drains gas from one bike to the next. He’s broke af🤷♂️
@@DirtDiggerDanHere whats his worries than no it all
If the cylinder has been bored maybe the piston is flopping around or could be hitting that power valve but the power valve only goes in a certain way I'd say something with the cylinder bore
@ 3:55 You are suppose to use a pin, that is put in that little fork at the end, and into a matching hole in the cylinder casting,--to hold that power valve actuator in place while you tighten the nut. Since you did not do that, the power valve is not "clocked" correctly. I thought you knew what you were doing?,---for all of us to see. lol
I noticed that also.
Yeah, I thought that fork end was meant for something.
Absolutely correct sir!
Once you lock it that sets your base adjustment
i dont know why a person would just assume and throw it together like he did.. was driving me crazy
Yeah, I thought "you really didn't explain that very well" but I guess he missed it altogether (and also didn't understand how it works). Not sure how anyone could have put that cover on with that fork just hanging in the breeze. Too obvious not to question.
I had this bike, got it with no engine. It was sent to a shop to be rebuilt and the engine disappeared. I ended up cobbling a 73 LT100 engine in it and it worked out okay. Not nearly as fast or powerful as it was but it was still fun to ride. The biggest challenge was switching the sprocket to the other side, motor mounts were pretty easy. I have a TH-cam of it posted if you want to search for it.
Patience you have, so many "expert" comments..add my 2 cents, powerbelt needs to be ground down, rubbed against piston rings. Cylinder could be egg shape..both items you suspect. Why would the power valve bracket have an unused notch on end? Something not right with it. Enjoy your videos, needed these 40 years ago when my atv's and dirt bikes broke. Had dealer repair them.
Notch is there to make an adjustment usually you put a 3mm drill bit through the notch and into the cylinder thats sets the base point then you take the slack out
Thanks for info@@elodmihaly6665
The comments on 2Vintage are priceless. Very good information, sometimes not relevant to the situation, but... still a lot of old heads in here teaching good stuff.
I don’t buy used junk anymore only new dirt bikes I’m to old for that stuff,😂😂😂😂
@@kevinbushey1879 Nice, got any bikes you want to get rid of? I have the old part down, just not the 8-12 grand each year for a new bike.
My man. You need to start and measure the bores. Get you a good mic and inside snap gauge to get a pretty good reading. And if you can afford it get a dial bore gauge with the mic. Once set to the dimension you need. You can use it to determine out of round , taper in the bore.
He doesn't check bore size or wear with a micrometer , over 90 thousands ring gap looks like it's either really wore out or maybe .5mm over size be my guess it's the later of the two if it has been bored an the power valve is for a stock cylinder it could be hitting the piston
As much as he does this stuff you would think he'd learn instead of making the same mistakes on stroke cylinders all the time, sometimes he throws a bunch of used eBay parts together an says everything's just perfect bite's him in the ass every once in a while lol
@@lawerncemiller6557look at his inventory. He can’t sell anything he’s touched 🤷♂️
@lawerncemiller6557 Lately, he's had §|-|¡Ť luck. It seems like everything he tries to fix these days goes completely to hell. The tranny in the QuadRacer, the nasty bog on the 1995 CR 250 (still a mystery) nothing seems to be going his way.
He's a shade tree mechanic without the tree, don't expect precision, cleanliness, or proper tools. He is entertaining however and makes em run eventually. For how long, well, that's another story =)
Nice job fixing this 800$ bike. But don't you at least sit on the bikes and put it in gear and push to listen for problems? Before paying? I don't know anything about buying bikes.
Cylinder in out-round. Its needs to be bored or replaced and you need to properly clean the top of cylinder and head to ensure a proper mating surface. Pitting and corrosion is not good, needs to be properly sanded or machined. Check those surfaces with a straightedge to ensure a flush mating surface. Love the bike though, that’s a gem I would keep!
From what you are showing with the ring wear, it wore in the back on the intake side and the front on the exhaust side. Maybe it is the bore, but it could be not enough oil in the gas mixture and/or running too lean. Try a reputable piston ring company, drain all that fuel out and put new mix in it. I've also found it good to run a higher oil to fuel ratio during break in period.
This the junkyard special Yamaha you can see these everywhere with so much potential
Gotta love working on old school tech!!
Sounds like my neighbors RM 80 that he bought for $900. Luckily it was STD bore and I was able to have it bored .005 over and put a OEM .005 over piston in it without grinding down or replacing the factory dual stage power valves. Water pump and crank seals failed and burnt up the crank bearings and scored the cylinder near the exhaust port. It still ran but had no power.
You should not even install the cylinder with the power valve not connected because the power valve can rotate around so far it can scape against the rings and piston.
Definitely saw some sharp edges in the ports in the cylinder... the transfer ports specifically look pretty sharp. You need to chamfer them. Sharp edges will immediately ruin a new piston ring.
Many people today have no moral compass and therefore are liars, cheats and thieves NOT scammers (too nice a word).
Do NOT trust what people say, instead, CHECK OUT THE CAR, TRUCK, MOTORCYCLE, ATV etc. BEFORE BUYING!!!
The old adage of BUYER BEWARE is paramount in today's world.
GREAT CHANNEL!!!! (My take on what's wrong......bad metallurgy in the ring, Chinese junk?)
You just described every democrat in history 😂, thank you!
@@machinesnmetal Very true!
@@christopherquarry6234 Yes, I did and you're welcome.....lol
I would inspect the power valve for contact abrasion from ring. Also, you might check cylinder squareness with a good straight edge.
Joe that clutch lever is the straightest lever I've ever seen, I think you need a different lever with a little curve to it bud 😉
I had one of those back in 94 and boy did it suck, mine run pretty much just as bad as yours.. was bad crank seals and someone’s "creative" welding of the crankshaft that was the big problem on mine. Sold it and bought a CR 93 instead. :)
You riding that thing triggered my memories of it.. It would run "ok” for a while until it warmed up and then boouhhh boouuuhh bööööuooohhh, young as I was I would clean the carburettor because I thought it was the culprit and every time when I put it back together it would run ok again... until it warmed up and I would repeat the process. haha
I had one as well, my friends call it the curse
Sometimes you need to pressure test the cooling system to find a small crack or head gasket problem.
With your skills and knowledge you need to develop a ten point system to evaluate every new purchase. If the seller won't allow the inspection, just assume there scammers
No such thing as a scam when you buy a bike that doesn't run, it's just risky business...
Then he wouldn’t have millions of views. 🤷♂️
So after 2500 dollars it turns into the machine the seller promised. If this had been a regular Joe that bought this it would be scattered in pieces and probably never put together. Land fill. After all the promises and then not having a clutch or power valves this would not have been a good purchase for anyone but you Joe. I mean anyone. Now something happened while trying it out. My guess is the power valve seems wrong for this engine. A thorough examination of the power valve may show what happened. I do NOT believe it is because of being egg shaped. As it travels over the intake or exhaust port something is wrong. Why was a three times too small piston in it. Maybe you need to ask the scamming seller what he did to this thing.
I bought an Apollo dirt bike on FB marketplace for my daughter’s 12th birthday. I have been out of work since last November fighting esophageal cancer so money is tight. When I came across this 110 cc machine at such a cheap price I jumped on it. I can’t work on bikes but a family friend offered to fix the brakes for the cost of parts. He has had the bike for two months now and says that he can’t find a place that sells the rear brake. My daughter sent me a text today and asked if she would ever get her bike back. This situation just really hurts. I thought about telling him I’m going to come and get the bike and take it by a local shop and see if they can find the part. You are so blessed to have the skills to do the work. My son wants to be a mechanic. Maybe one good thing that will come from my incompetence. Any advice on finding brakes I would really appreciate it.
Think you mentioned the cylinder was bored out pretty large…. Bigger piston is closer to the exhaust power valve and may even allow the ring to make contact. Recalling in a few shop manuals, specifically mention to relieve the power valve (or atac or KIPS, etc) make clearance for the rings.
Might be your culprit….
I owned an ‘82 YZ125 new purchase back in the day…. Was 14 years old…. Fastest 125 beginner in my mind!
Much luck ..
The smoke makes me think you were getting coolant in the cylinder washing it out and chewing up the ring from heat and friction. Try seeing if the mate surface on the head and jug are flat.
Put some love and attention into this bike it will pay you back - Bikes like this need a full break down and restoration no cutting corners
I have a 1982 Yz250, its been in the garage for several years because i cannot find parts for it. 82's were one year only and didn't share many parts with the 83s or 81s. Good job Joe your patience paid off.
Likes how he revs it with a new piston and stone cold
He revs the nuts off every cold start up, can't seem to help himself.
@@al4904 😆
Come on Joe ! That's the biggest Rookie mistake you made ! Just replacing the rear sprocket ? The chain and front sprocket are worn into that back sprocket wear pattern ! Keeping costs down does not justify not doing a job right ! Luv your channel, but sometimes I have to click in ! Sorry !
Always the first words out of my dad's mouth... “Maybe a fouled plug“ 😂
ALSO! you should be running you premix 20-1 in those old bike. thats usually what they call for. youll prob get better compression as well.
When I was 15 I had an 82 yz 125 only it was white and red, I loved that bike 🍻
Could the cylinder be out of round?
I would check the position of the power valve it may be in upside down so when it's open it's contacting the piston ring
You can set that back brake by setting actuator back on splines.
Maybe time to Up the game.
Invest in gadgets and gismos.
Measure twice cut once. 😊
Yes blown head gasket and bad coolant pump to along with bad body coolant tube seals also.
If cylinder is over bored... Yes stock pv will be an issue. You need to check cylinder for egg shaped
Cylinder is warped.
If it were the power valve, only one side of the ring would be worn down.
Cylinder being egg shaped (warped) explains the two sides of the rings wearing perfectly.
incorrect bore job maybe allowing pv to hit. place a straight edge vertical in cylinder see if pv scraps it?
I think the brake backing plate should get a spacer between it and the hub of the wheel?? I didn't see one. Unless it's built into the brake backing plate? This bike is cool!!!
For what irt's worth, any time I build a motor I run a machinist stone over the mating surfaces (use WD40 or kerosene as a lubricant). It removes any high spots and shows you the low spots. You seem to slap allot of stuff together that doesn't look very clean. You need more tools, parts washer, calipers and bore gauge, vapor blaster, a TIG welder, spend some money bro!! I owned a similar bike, the 82 YZ80, man that thing was fun and fast. Best part was back then I could buy every single part, brand new, no problem.
Joe You got a Reputation, lier’s know to call You, the word is out and travels fast.
Don’t give your labor away, be more of a businessman, say no!
I think I’d try to find a machinist to put a new steel sleeve in the cylinder and go back to factory bore size. Make sure the ports are properly chamfered or they’ll catch a ring 👍
I wonder if the piston came with a ring designed for chrome or nikasil and the cylinder is plated with the opposite. Chrome was commonly used on older machines like this and people replace them with Nikasil or sleave them (steel)
Also, I'd recommend building or purchasing yourself a leak down tester for these 2 strokes.
Looks like straight gas ? Powervalve face needs to be shape of the new Sized piston and ring ‘.
ARGH! Dishonest sellers are so frustrating from those who fib (was running yesterday) to those who blatantly LIE (good as new).
Sorry, this happened to you. You are still batting over 80%. Lesson learned. Salvage what you're able to and move on.
I think it is the edges of the ports cutting the ring.
Makes sense. Need a chamfer on them to prevent this.
He must be part Native American...he was staring at the Exhaust Smoke Signals alot!! 😂
🇨🇦🤓🤟
Maybe let a new rebuild warm up b4 reving the fck outa it. You can hear things crunching and you just ignor it and throw it all back together.
People suck that’s why
Check the cylinder. It's not round anymore. Great content by the way!
I learned how a power valve works from your last video of the 250r.
I still have PTSD from this model of bike
Hate saying it but not worth the hassle; you'll be chasing ghost with these models of bikes as they changed so much from this year until late 80's early 90's when they finally had a solid platform, of course until 4 stroke came along.
This motor in my opinion is up there on the top if the list for worst engines
Sorry and good luck
Probably why the power valves weren’t hooked up properly when you bought it, I’d say the rings hitting them are the problem
Funny guy. Every old bike is a "rare" bike to you. Even though 10 times more of them were made than any MX bike today. What is rare today, is being able to afford a new bike like we could in 1982.
I left a comment about your piston on the KX125 video. ! And with a mikuni carburetor on a 125 you need a 35 to 45 pilot. And a 240 to 270 maine jet. If it can't handle a 270 try a 260. You should be running Yamalube R racing oil for your premix @ 33:1 ratio. 40:1 is not enough oil
I had the same bike and power valve has to also be bored along with the cylinder! trust me I had same problem
Vintage I could use you more than ever rn I’m going to pick up an ltz250 for my gf it’s ticking and has a chatter I think I can get away with doing timing and it will be running like new but I’m nervous the guy road it like this quite a bit I guess we’ll find out what this toppys lookin like at noon lol
Between this and the mystery bog on the '95 CR 250 you really got your work cut out for you. I'm glad I'm not Joe.
My buddy used to have 2 of those bikes and we also had low compression poor performance low power on both bikes when they ran, he sold them both at a loss
Damn this bike ... I hate this that YZ has so much fun left in it !!!
Check the bore taper with a proper dial indicator.
I don’t think you installed the power valve linkage correctly.
when you bore a cylinder,you should grind the valve too,sorry for my english,i,m a frenchie from the north of quebec,,you doing alway,s agreat job
It is a two stroke engine, it has reed valves, but you definitely don't grind them
@@quakermaasDoesn't this one have an unusual valve system instead of reed valves, & that is a reason, that this bike is special?
I believe he was talking about the power valve being to close to the piston if the cylinder has been bored over
@@andyjidas you have understand me very well,i do the same on my 2 stroque sea doo engine few year ago
@@andyjidas Aaaah my bad, I understand now and completely agree. I was actually thinking the power valve could be clipping the rings, I just didn't put two and two together.
Consensus is port chamfer and PV adjustment/mod
Sharp ports will cut the rings, sometimes the powervalves need to be ground back after the cylinder is bored. Chamfer all ports
I think it has an air leak somewhere. Maybe the intake? What’s the compression? Replace bearing seals on each side of the crank? It’s burping and farting. Get that engine sealed up tight!!
Back in the day my yz125 did this exact thing and know one could work it out for about 3 months ,anyway it was the power valve,the two half were not flat where they join in the middle
My dumb question is why did the kick starter jump when he gave it throttle 😊
I like your red impact wrench. I think it’s kind of funny how you use it for everything and put all different kinds of extensions and adapters on it. Do you have any other power tools? lol
On Google there is a video showing the way to adjust power valve. Pin in hole through piece with slot. Good luck Joe, that bike was a piece of crap when it was new. I spent a grip of cash back in the 89'$ .... $$$$.
Clean and regrease the wheel bearings should be something to do as the grease is probably dirty and dried up by now
The bearings are sealed.
@@wisecampmotorcycles8258 okay. My Sporty had bearings that could be taken out and replaced or regreased
Chain guide is on backwards on the swingarm should be flipped around.
Rings, got hot and chewed em up. Check roundness for sure. Do a ring clearance check. Ring is toast bro.
Was there enough lubrication? as that ring really ground off quick. OR something is very wrong with that cylinder shape, high spot, or you missed some roughness but it looks ok. Need to really put the light down in there and turn it so you dont get shadows and i missed twice on a 2 stroke and on third time i found a nice channel cut into it a couple mms wide and the length of stoke. I missed it because i kept looking at it from one side and shadows hid it, but when i saw it in the light it was obvious!!!. That channel gave me loss of a tablespoon of 4 stroke oil about every 15 mins run!!!
Someone who lies like that ,are really a thief and what goes around comes around
Badass bike man! I've been watching you for years now youve taught me so much and I now have my own small business at 16!!
The ring could wear down like that if the ports are not chamfered correctly or as you said it hits the power valve. Also you should check that the ring sits all the way in the piston or it sticks out.
Pro tip is to never change a sprocket without changing the chain and vice versa!!
If you need to change 1, change all 3! It will save money in the long run.
A busted sprocket will kill a chain, and a bad chain will kill a sprocket.
I don't like were the rad is on these RMS ..
THE PARENT --''IT RAN FINE''
THE KID --''TOOK IT APART AS HE PUT WATER IN TANK''
Dude, you are an experienced bike mechanic! Why are you making rookie mistakes. Clean the darn brakes before replacing. ALWAYS check the cylinder bore roundness, especially when you can't trust the seller! You're letting me down, I love the channel.
Doesn't need to he just looks at it and knows if its ok lol
pro's measure amateurs guess.
Don’t drink before you comment just saying, it’s never good, if you’re hooked on the the stupid brakes that he actually fixed and you’re being stupid about it then it’s all on
You my brain has 29 psi 38:03
Don’t drink before you comment just saying, it’s never good, if you’re hooked on the the stupid brakes that he actually fixed and you’re being stupid about it then it’s all on
You my brain has 29 psi
like he cares about what some asshole on the internet thinks
@danielbrinkman8069 Asshole? I am not. He makes a living from TH-cam. People look to vids like this for education and they should be correct. This guy cuts corners that should be exposed for rookies.
you bought a 42 year old bike for 850 bucks and think you got scammed, 😂
Regardless, I love your videos.
Cause you really didn't get screwed on that dirt bike at all either Joe. even though they didn't tell you the full truth about it all either upfront when you we're buying it off of them to. At that time to. That dirt bike when you get it completely fixed can and does bring around. Anywhere between $4,000.00 to $6,000.00 still today in good running conditions.
IT WAS A ''BITTSSA'
PUT TOGETHER FROM VARIOUS BITS LYING AROUND
BOUGHT A FEW OF THEM
10:15 You’re supposed to do the initial loosen from the back, not turn the countersunk head first. Also on assembly it’s a good idea to put blue lock tite on both the threads and the countersunk head tapered surface.
Regards from Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Every time i watch a video of Joes. I learn so much. Even though he thought he knew what the problem was. He still went down the checklist checking possible but unlikely causes and ultimately narrows it down to only being a couple possible culprits. Joes never to cocky to assume he knows the problem.
Part it off,it ain't worth the effort.
I don't like bikes going that way but its a money pit.