I replaced my clutch in my JD 5310 last year with the measurments given in the book and tool, only to put it back together to find out the book was wrong as to where to set up the tool, had to resplit it and take measurments like you did, Put it back together and all was good.
Well after a few hours of struggling and with the help of a second person we were able to get the bell housing collar and clutch assembly off. As suspected the drive clutch was burned up. Of course the pressure plate and flywheel were worn. The p t o side was not so bad. Oh yes, the throw-out bearing also needed to be replaced. Looking at a lot of money to replace all the parts, I came up with another plan. There is an old company down in Houston that has been specializing in rebuilding clutch equipment. I’ve used them before to rebuild a clutch plate. I took it to them yesterday to see what they could do. After inspecting all the parts they said they could rebuild the parts and have I ready Monday and the price was amazing, so I’m going for the rebuild. Next step is to start cleaning parts. The drive clutch was not worn down to the rivets but it was burned up. Which supports the theory that it was probably being used in too high of a range with too heavy of a load. Your thoughts?
Glad you found a cheaper alternative. I looked into that but was gonna have to ship it somewhere and would have took 2-3 weeks to get back and I didn't want to wait. My throwout bearing was ok, but my pilot bearing was bad. Sounds like someone was constantly riding the clutch, because the throwout bearing should have about an 1/8 gap between it and the clutch fingers when the clutch is released. So it shouldn't turn until you press the clutch pedal. So by that and the clutch being burned up I would say to high gear slipping the clutch is probably what started it and then as the clutch wore down, it became out of adjustment, meaning no freeplay on the pedal which further burned it up. If the clutch freeplay isn't adjusted properly the throwout bearing holds pressure against the clutch fingers, as if someone was riding the clutch. I try to use the clutch as an on/off switch. The only time I ride the clutch is at idle under light load such as hooking up implements or unloading something from a truck that requires finesse. Other than that I either have the clutch released or engaged. Ceramic puck clutches are the same thing used in most semi trucks and they don't like to be slipped. A normal full face organic style clutch used in most automobiles will tolerate a lot more slipping but won't hold the power that a ceramic puck clutch will. Someone who understands how a clutch works can make it last a long time. Someone who doesn't will try to drive it like a hydrostatic tractor and have the clutch burned up pretty shortly which is probably what happened. I feel like mine suffered some of the same fate. It was used at a cotton gen by multiple operators I'm guessing, and left in 4wd on concrete the whole time apparently, which is why the splines on the front differential was worn out.
@@LifeWithChase thanks for all the info. I will certainly pay more attention to my use of the clutch. By the way, getting the top part of the bell housing loose was a real challenge. Hopefully I can get this back together before I forget where all the parts go? My pilot bearing was in great shape but I’m replacing it. I’m also considering the horsepower upgrade you recorded. Would it help me pick up some heavier logs. My friend has a Kubota 85 hp 4 wd and it will try to lift until the rear wheels come off the ground. On another note, I just rebuilt my hydraulic pump. I made a test gauge like yours and found that I could not even make 2500 psi. I adjusted it as far as it would go and still could never get it above 2500 psi. And my hydraulic fluid was leaking from the pump into the crankcase. It was halfway up the dip stick when I discovered it. After fluid and filter changes, along with the pump rebuild I had to lower the relief valve adjustment as it was going up to 4000 psi. So I’m thinking that with a strong pump and new clutch, perhaps a little more hp would be handy, What do you think? Sorry for being so long winded but I thought it might give you more information on which to base your recommendation. Thanks again for all your advice/ help, Greg Fox
@@gregfox9687 The extra horsepower is really only beneficial in pto usage such as running a large bush hog or a hay baler, or pulling a ground engaging implement at a higher ground speed, such as a large disc. It won't make any difference in lift capacity and probably won't be noticeable at lower speed pulling logs in my opinion. If you set your loader pressure at about 3000psi like I did in my video you should be good on lift capacity and will need some weight on the back. I've been wanting to buy a load cell or crane scale and do some testing on lift capacity but they are kinda pricey so I haven't done so yet. 3000psi hydraulic pressure is about 10% over factory spec. 3250psi would be about 20% over factory spec. I'm just not sure what the pump can withstand so I didn't wanna get to carried away... I have compared it to a 9960 kubota and it lifts as much or slightly more than the kubota. The kubota's are lighter in the rear, so usually they come off the ground before you reach loader lift capacity.
@@LifeWithChase that’s good information. Because I’m still dealing with a pump with some wear I probably shouldn’t push it. The general consensus on why pump seal leaked was due to the pump over heating. The cause of that was the rocket control switch that was stuck in an applied position resulting in the pump building a constant high head pressure. That was Mahindras opinion. They said that was a fairly common occurrence, sometimes resulting in so much hydraulic fluid in the engine that it would lock up and cause catastrophic damage. I guess I got lucky on that one. But i replaced the switch some time ago, but realize the problem it had caused until recently. Needless to say I keep a closer eye on that rocker switch from now on. I’ll check back with an update on the clutch if you’re interested. Thanks, Greg
My tractor has a little over 500 hours on it. I bought it used, so I don’t know the history. I use the tractor in the East Texas thicket area logging trees and clearing brush. Obviously that kind of work is much harder on a tractor than doing pasture type work. I use a grapple attachment for the work I do. It does not work as well as I thought it would. I have to run the throttle up a lot to get the grapple to open and close faster. And if I’m using the loader lifting control at the same time, the grapple won’t function. It uses as a rocker switch mounted on the joy stick knob that controls a separate valve mounted on the plate with the loader control valve. Do you know if this is how it is supposed to work or is there another option. Thanks again for the videos and the advise. Greg Fox
That's how it should work I believe, but it shouldn't be that slow I wouldn't think. Grapples usually function fairly quick even at idle in my experience. I Got mine used also. Clutch life is hugely affected by the operator. I use mine for lifting moving and pushing heavy things alot, I use low gear at or just above idle and try not to slip the clutch much when pushing etc. I've seen operators set the throttle at 1500 and use a higher gear and slip the clutch to load the Bucket or load on trailer etc. Results in very short clutch life. They are familiar with operating a hydrostatic I guess. The 8560 is geared a little fast for tight quarter menurvirng if you want to set the rpm higher for faster hydraulics Imo.
Tractor clutch is in and working great but.........................replacement of the right side floor plate is kicking my butt! Any suggestions ? It came out in one piece on the right and one piece on the left without cutting or damaging any thing
I removed the seat and the sheet metal under the seat trying to gain clearance for the right side floor pan finally got it but scratched the right fender up doing so I'm not sure how they expect you to remove and install the things easily, with out damage. Maybe your supposed to take the pedals loose idk I didn't want to do that so I just kinda forced it.
I start tearing into my 2013 Mahindra 8560 in the morning . Drive clutch is slipping badly. This going to be a new adventure for me. Did you separate your front end loader from the main loader frame support first? Or can they be remove together?
Update, I got the tractor split today. I think I’ve run into the same problem you talked about. I can’t get the double clutch out after removing the 6 bolts. I guess I’ll now have to remove the “ bell housing collar” that is still attached to the engine? Unless you know a secret?
No secret other than you have to take it apart at the bell housing. I learned the hard way too! Also have to make sure you get both clutch disc splined when reassembling, helps to have a second person to turn pto shaft and help get it rolled back together. How many hours does yours have? Mine. Had 1600. Seems first gear is a little high on these tractors.
Hi Clutch on my 7060 has frozen.Can not get it to free up. I saw you lost 3 hours to wrong spot to split. Shit happens to all us DIYers. That aside How many days or hours should I expect to re and re. Thx from Canada
Your videos are the only great videos I could find on splitting.
I replaced my clutch in my JD 5310 last year with the measurments given in the book and tool, only to put it back together to find out the book was wrong as to where to set up the tool, had to resplit it and take measurments like you did, Put it back together and all was good.
Well after a few hours of struggling and with the help of a second person we were able to get the bell housing collar and clutch assembly off. As suspected the drive clutch was burned up. Of course the pressure plate and flywheel were worn. The p t o side was not so bad. Oh yes, the throw-out bearing also needed to be replaced. Looking at a lot of money to replace all the parts, I came up with another plan. There is an old company down in Houston that has been specializing in rebuilding clutch equipment. I’ve used them before to rebuild a clutch plate. I took it to them yesterday to see what they could do. After inspecting all the parts they said they could rebuild the parts and have I ready Monday and the price was amazing, so I’m going for the rebuild. Next step is to start cleaning parts. The drive clutch was not worn down to the rivets but it was burned up. Which supports the theory that it was probably being used in too high of a range with too heavy of a load. Your thoughts?
Glad you found a cheaper alternative. I looked into that but was gonna have to ship it somewhere and would have took 2-3 weeks to get back and I didn't want to wait. My throwout bearing was ok, but my pilot bearing was bad. Sounds like someone was constantly riding the clutch, because the throwout bearing should have about an 1/8 gap between it and the clutch fingers when the clutch is released. So it shouldn't turn until you press the clutch pedal. So by that and the clutch being burned up I would say to high gear slipping the clutch is probably what started it and then as the clutch wore down, it became out of adjustment, meaning no freeplay on the pedal which further burned it up. If the clutch freeplay isn't adjusted properly the throwout bearing holds pressure against the clutch fingers, as if someone was riding the clutch. I try to use the clutch as an on/off switch. The only time I ride the clutch is at idle under light load such as hooking up implements or unloading something from a truck that requires finesse. Other than that I either have the clutch released or engaged. Ceramic puck clutches are the same thing used in most semi trucks and they don't like to be slipped. A normal full face organic style clutch used in most automobiles will tolerate a lot more slipping but won't hold the power that a ceramic puck clutch will. Someone who understands how a clutch works can make it last a long time. Someone who doesn't will try to drive it like a hydrostatic tractor and have the clutch burned up pretty shortly which is probably what happened. I feel like mine suffered some of the same fate. It was used at a cotton gen by multiple operators I'm guessing, and left in 4wd on concrete the whole time apparently, which is why the splines on the front differential was worn out.
@@LifeWithChase thanks for all the info. I will certainly pay more attention to my use of the clutch. By the way, getting the top part of the bell housing loose was a real challenge. Hopefully I can get this back together before I forget where all the parts go? My pilot bearing was in great shape but I’m replacing it. I’m also considering the horsepower upgrade you recorded. Would it help me pick up some heavier logs. My friend has a Kubota 85 hp 4 wd and it will try to lift until the rear wheels come off the ground. On another note, I just rebuilt my hydraulic pump. I made a test gauge like yours and found that I could not even make 2500 psi. I adjusted it as far as it would go and still could never get it above 2500 psi. And my hydraulic fluid was leaking from the pump into the crankcase. It was halfway up the dip stick when I discovered it. After fluid and filter changes, along with the pump rebuild I had to lower the relief valve adjustment as it was going up to 4000 psi. So I’m thinking that with a strong pump and new clutch, perhaps a little more hp would be handy, What do you think?
Sorry for being so long winded but I thought it might give you more information on which to base your recommendation.
Thanks again for all your advice/ help,
Greg Fox
@@gregfox9687 The extra horsepower is really only beneficial in pto usage such as running a large bush hog or a hay baler, or pulling a ground engaging implement at a higher ground speed, such as a large disc. It won't make any difference in lift capacity and probably won't be noticeable at lower speed pulling logs in my opinion. If you set your loader pressure at about 3000psi like I did in my video you should be good on lift capacity and will need some weight on the back. I've been wanting to buy a load cell or crane scale and do some testing on lift capacity but they are kinda pricey so I haven't done so yet. 3000psi hydraulic pressure is about 10% over factory spec. 3250psi would be about 20% over factory spec. I'm just not sure what the pump can withstand so I didn't wanna get to carried away... I have compared it to a 9960 kubota and it lifts as much or slightly more than the kubota. The kubota's are lighter in the rear, so usually they come off the ground before you reach loader lift capacity.
@@LifeWithChase that’s good information. Because I’m still dealing with a pump with some wear I probably shouldn’t push it. The general consensus on why pump seal leaked was due to the pump over heating. The cause of that was the rocket control switch that was stuck in an applied position resulting in the pump building a constant high head pressure. That was Mahindras opinion. They said that was a fairly common occurrence, sometimes resulting in so much hydraulic fluid in the engine that it would lock up and cause catastrophic damage. I guess I got lucky on that one. But i replaced the switch some time ago, but realize the problem it had caused until recently. Needless to say I keep a closer eye on that rocker switch from now on. I’ll check back with an update on the clutch if you’re interested.
Thanks, Greg
@@gregfox9687 sounds good, I was wondering why the hydraulic pump was bad with so few hrs, makes sense now...
I need to know about PTO repair
My tractor has a little over 500 hours on it. I bought it used, so I don’t know the history. I use the tractor in the East Texas thicket area logging trees and clearing brush. Obviously that kind of work is much harder on a tractor than doing pasture type work. I use a grapple attachment for the work I do. It does not work as well as I thought it would. I have to run the throttle up a lot to get the grapple to open and close faster. And if I’m using the loader lifting control at the same time, the grapple won’t function. It uses as a rocker switch mounted on the joy stick knob that controls a separate valve mounted on the plate with the loader control valve. Do you know if this is how it is supposed to work or is there another option. Thanks again for the videos and the advise.
Greg Fox
That's how it should work I believe, but it shouldn't be that slow I wouldn't think. Grapples usually function fairly quick even at idle in my experience. I Got mine used also. Clutch life is hugely affected by the operator. I use mine for lifting moving and pushing heavy things alot, I use low gear at or just above idle and try not to slip the clutch much when pushing etc. I've seen operators set the throttle at 1500 and use a higher gear and slip the clutch to load the Bucket or load on trailer etc. Results in very short clutch life. They are familiar with operating a hydrostatic I guess. The 8560 is geared a little fast for tight quarter menurvirng if you want to set the rpm higher for faster hydraulics Imo.
Tractor clutch is in and working great but.........................replacement of the right side floor plate is kicking my butt! Any suggestions ? It came out in one piece on the right and one piece on the left without cutting or damaging any thing
I removed the seat and the sheet metal under the seat trying to gain clearance for the right side floor pan finally got it but scratched the right fender up doing so I'm not sure how they expect you to remove and install the things easily, with out damage. Maybe your supposed to take the pedals loose idk I didn't want to do that so I just kinda forced it.
By the way, I’m over near Coldspring, Texas. I just got back from a week in Alexandria, La. doing disaster relief work .
I deliver lumber down your way sometimes.
I start tearing into my 2013 Mahindra 8560 in the morning . Drive clutch is slipping badly. This going to be a new adventure for me. Did you separate your front end loader from the main loader frame support first? Or can they be remove together?
Remove the loader first. Then the loader brackets on each side, and you will need help as they are heavy!
Update, I got the tractor split today. I think I’ve run into the same problem you talked about. I can’t get the double clutch out after removing the 6 bolts. I guess I’ll now have to remove the “ bell housing collar” that is still attached to the engine? Unless you know a secret?
No secret other than you have to take it apart at the bell housing. I learned the hard way too! Also have to make sure you get both clutch disc splined when reassembling, helps to have a second person to turn pto shaft and help get it rolled back together. How many hours does yours have? Mine. Had 1600. Seems first gear is a little high on these tractors.
Hi Clutch on my 7060 has frozen.Can not get it to free up. I saw you lost 3 hours to wrong spot to split. Shit happens to all us DIYers. That aside How many days or hours should I expect to re and re. Thx from Canada
If you have some help and all the parts could probably be done in a day, Maybe a long day lol. Maybe a couple days if you're not in a big hurry.
🥇 bhahaha. #oldvideo #brakekleen #heavy #biceps #roids #brasshammer #jackin 😂