Thank you for not editing out the part where you struggled to get the inner part off. It makes me feel much better about my struggles when I see that even the pro's fight them. Thanks for making the video!
Good video. I just replaced the inner/outer tie rods, the entire lower control arm assembly, sway bar links and CV axles. Getting an alignment as I type this. Wow what a difference. Over 300k miles on my Town and country. The lower control arm bushings and ball joint were trashed so it was cheaper replacing the whole thing. Got the whole kit from Detroit axle on Ebay. Seems to be good quality.
"I know. I make it look easy." Yes indeed! This is very helpful by the way. Happy owner of a 2005 3.8L Dodge GC ... the perfect utilitarian van for DIY mechanics, carpenters, dads and hockey coaches. Keeping it safe and making it last thanks to thoughtful knowledgeable guys (just like yourself).
For future me, the 2009 T&C has a heat shield over the passenger side inner. I couldn't get it out, but I was able to unbolt it and lift it out of the way to remove the inner boot clamp.
Just a tip for other 2005 Town and Country owners. After repeated blows with a 5 lb sledge, torch heat, several rounds of blaster, pickle fork and 3 puller tools that didn't fit I figured out the original outer tie rod was to long for the puller tools. I had to cut the tip off the end of the tie rod to shorten it, only then did the puller tool fit and bam the tie rod FINALLY came out! What a nightmare!!!
Have someone turning The steering wheel back-and-forth just slightly while you’re looking with a flashlight you can tell if it’s just the inner or the inner and the outer
Good video! I wish you have another one for replacing the lower ball joints. I couldn't find any practical video on youtube. Most are not practically useful for DIYers.
Thanks for the reply. How often would you say, you've had to replace inner and outer tie rods of this vehicle? Bcuz I replaced mine a year plus ago and I'm feeling some swaying. I used Moog parts. In fact, I did the entire front end; control arms with ball joints and bushings, tie rods, full struts, Cv joints, bearings, rotor & brakes, calipers. At the rear (bcuz of rust), parking brakes were not working. This is a 2005 Town and Country, bought it 5 yrs ago, used with 107K. Rear; complete: dust plate (don't even ask the price of each), both side parking brakes shoes, hardware kit, P-brake actuator, rotors & brake pads and both bearings. Did this (work myself) bcuz I didn't want to deal with high shop labor prices and nonsense for the next 10 yrs if she goes the distance. She now has 152K. But the Tie rods seem to be a touchy item.. What say ye?
It shame the parts are getting so cheap these days. But typically I’d say you can should at least get 5 to 8 years out of them. I’ve replaced quite a lot of these with parts from Napa. Can’t recall ever happen to do a warranty or a replacement a second time around.. Thanks for the reply I appreciate it I’ll always reply back and may take just a little while
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair and its true about parts turning out to be cheap in duration Quality. Even MOOG which was officially the best and made in the USA, has now been coming from China. It does last, seems the Quality is still good.
Like any auto parts store A1 auto sales quality and obviously cheap stuff. Middle of the road part it’s a good quote. Movies OK new NAPA quality problem solving parts surpassed move these days
@@connieroen5870 Yeah, I recently got wind of that discovery, Moog parts I knew to be the BEST in US, are now made in china. I wonder why the USA has gone that route or allowed this switch. Not loosing any sleep over any of these country changes, I'm just waiting on the Rapture by Jesus Christ.
You may want to invest in a good quality clip on microphone to help isolate your voice; there is quite a bit of background noise. Thanks for the tips in the video!
Yes your right. As time go's on we will be upgrading or camera and sound. Work in progress. This Vid had alot of back ground noise. Air hose leaking. Was the biggest noise. Thank for tip.
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair I have rented them. I still cannot get the actual outer tie rod bolt to come out of the case. I am pretty sure that whoever did my tie rods previously used a sealing glue that is unbreakable. I’ve beaten the crap out of it and still No budging, sprayed it With penetrating fluid… Hopefully this afternoon I can get it loosened.
I hit it with a 4 pound sledge hammer and it didnt budge I even used a ball joint seperator on the a arm it is froze.on from corrosion from salt and water and still wont com loose so I'm going to get a hydraulic press and do the arm on it or just replace the whole a arm and parts
What grease should be used in these? I see lithium grease being sold everywhere to grease tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. but I don't remember it being lithium grease back in the day....lol
Any grease is better than no grease...haha. Lithium grease is standard faire these days. . For this a good all-purpose chassis grease. Synthetic is of course the best option pretty much anywhere but any good lithium stuff that says it's for chassis use is fine. Wheel bearings and the like have a different kind of grease that has different additives/higher melting points, etc.. I don't know if that was helpful...
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair I just replaced my inner tie rods on a 06 Caravan which is supposedly exactly the same as the Town and Country. On the rack side of tie rod were plastic spacers. I noticed the one you replaced did not have it and the new one didn't. Maybe the T and C don't use them. Just surprised or the previous replacement left it off mistakenly.
OK now I see what you’re talking about. So the old part came off didn’t have to put a spacer. And the new part going on spacer was not supplied. I’ve seen the metal ones and the blue is usually they’re supplied. Not sure why this one didn’t have it
Using Detroit Axel complete front end kit $246 Amazon ( it’s uses castle nuts w/ cotter pin and angel Zurks, plus thicker rubber) I did the struts -torqued to 95lbs+90* Sway links - held them on the backsides w/ vise grips. Lower control arm- dropped the cradle Tightened and painted nuts and bolts Then checked to verified. Thanks to your video South main auto -TH-cam Burton auto- you tube Jim Stevens -you tube
Doing the same thing. Replacing all that stuff at once is just smart! Axles, lower control arms (don't mess with ball joints and bushings, just buy the control arms), sway links, inner and outer tie rod ends. It's great to get the boots that come with the inner tie rods! I got the kit without the struts though. Smart idea to paint the nuts and bolts after you tightened them to make sure they don't move! I will implement that in my job!
I did one side and it had a damaged blue travel limiter on the inside part of the inner tie rod. I didnt see them on the one you did. I cant find anywhere that sells em. How essential are they?
hey good video but you 4got to put the spacer/plastic washer back on that dose need to be there! and use blue locktight not red ull never get it back off when the inner tie rod gos bad again! hate after market parts!
Thank you for not editing out the part where you struggled to get the inner part off. It makes me feel much better about my struggles when I see that even the pro's fight them. Thanks for making the video!
Good video. I just replaced the inner/outer tie rods, the entire lower control arm assembly, sway bar links and CV axles. Getting an alignment as I type this. Wow what a difference. Over 300k miles on my Town and country. The lower control arm bushings and ball joint were trashed so it was cheaper replacing the whole thing. Got the whole kit from Detroit axle on Ebay. Seems to be good quality.
I just ordered the exact same thing as you. Replacing all of that for a great deal! Wish I knew a good place to take it for alignment...
"I know. I make it look easy." Yes indeed! This is very helpful by the way. Happy owner of a 2005 3.8L Dodge GC ... the perfect utilitarian van for DIY mechanics, carpenters, dads and hockey coaches. Keeping it safe and making it last thanks to thoughtful knowledgeable guys (just like yourself).
Your welcome . I started work on car when I was 18.. A lot of changes in 34 years.
Thanks man. Now I can tackle my t&c with confidence and save myself $376.00 dollars.
Job done, and sure enough it was 21 turns. According to the report at the alignment shop that got it to under a degree of toe. Thanks for the help!
For future me, the 2009 T&C has a heat shield over the passenger side inner. I couldn't get it out, but I was able to unbolt it and lift it out of the way to remove the inner boot clamp.
Your welcome
Just a tip for other 2005 Town and Country owners. After repeated blows with a 5 lb sledge, torch heat, several rounds of blaster, pickle fork and 3 puller tools that didn't fit I figured out the original outer tie rod was to long for the puller tools. I had to cut the tip off the end of the tie rod to shorten it, only then did the puller tool fit and bam the tie rod FINALLY came out! What a nightmare!!!
Wow it sounds like a nightmare
It was! 🤯
Thank you so much for sharing it was really helpful
Thanks for helping me with this!
You got it no problem you’re welcome
How do you determine if the inner or outer tie rod is the problem when there is slight play? I would rather just replace outer:)
Have someone turning The steering wheel back-and-forth just slightly while you’re looking with a flashlight you can tell if it’s just the inner or the inner and the outer
Good video! I wish you have another one for replacing the lower ball joints. I couldn't find any practical video on youtube. Most are not practically useful for DIYers.
Thanks for the reply. How often would you say, you've had to replace inner and outer tie rods of this vehicle? Bcuz I replaced mine a year plus ago and I'm feeling some swaying. I used Moog parts. In fact, I did the entire front end; control arms with ball joints and bushings, tie rods, full struts, Cv joints, bearings, rotor & brakes, calipers. At the rear (bcuz of rust), parking brakes were not working. This is a 2005 Town and Country, bought it 5 yrs ago, used with 107K. Rear; complete: dust plate (don't even ask the price of each), both side parking brakes shoes, hardware kit, P-brake actuator, rotors & brake pads and both bearings. Did this (work myself) bcuz I didn't want to deal with high shop labor prices and nonsense for the next 10 yrs if she goes the distance. She now has 152K. But the Tie rods seem to be a touchy item.. What say ye?
It shame the parts are getting so cheap these days. But typically I’d say you can should at least get 5 to 8 years out of them. I’ve replaced quite a lot of these with parts from Napa. Can’t recall ever happen to do a warranty or a replacement a second time around.. Thanks for the reply I appreciate it I’ll always reply back and may take just a little while
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair Perhaps next time if needed, I'll try the tie rods from NAPA. Thx.
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair and its true about parts turning out to be cheap in duration Quality. Even MOOG which was officially the best and made in the USA, has now been coming from China. It does last, seems the Quality is still good.
Do you have a video for pulling and installing the complete distributor
(Not just the cap - like all the others online) for a 1997 5.2 Dodge Ram 1500
Sorry I dont
Thank u very helpful demonstration I just want to ask you the name of electric gun that use to lose the Rod nut
3/8 bosch inpact
Thanks for informative video.
You’re welcome thanks for watching
Also, what brand does A1 Auto sell? Are they good parts? Would it be better to use Moog brand parts?
Like any auto parts store A1 auto sales quality and obviously cheap stuff. Middle of the road part it’s a good quote. Movies OK new NAPA quality problem solving parts surpassed move these days
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair What type thread-lock did you use?
J P Red high strength
Back in my day , moog and trw was best for suspension parts but even most moog parts are made in CHINA today. I guess buyer beware.
@@connieroen5870 Yeah, I recently got wind of that discovery, Moog parts I knew to be the BEST in US, are now made in china. I wonder why the USA has gone that route or allowed this switch. Not loosing any sleep over any of these country changes, I'm just waiting on the Rapture by Jesus Christ.
Question: What type of thread-Lock did you use? I understand there are two (2) types.
Red
You may want to invest in a good quality clip on microphone to help isolate your voice; there is quite a bit of background noise. Thanks for the tips in the video!
Yes your right. As time go's on we will be upgrading or camera and sound. Work in progress. This Vid had alot of back ground noise. Air hose leaking. Was the biggest noise. Thank for tip.
Coopers Automotive Repair could hear you fine
... and maybe close the garage door ?
I can’t seem to loosen the tie rod out and I can loosen the nut between the inner and outer tie rod. Any advice! Very frustrated
Yes you can rent inner rod socket tools from the parts house like Napa or AutoZone
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair I have rented them. I still cannot get the actual outer tie rod bolt to come out of the case. I am pretty sure that whoever did my tie rods previously used a sealing glue that is unbreakable. I’ve beaten the crap out of it and still No budging, sprayed it With penetrating fluid… Hopefully this afternoon I can get it loosened.
I hit it with a 4 pound sledge hammer and it didnt budge I even used a ball joint seperator on the a arm it is froze.on from corrosion from salt and water and still wont com loose so I'm going to get a hydraulic press and do the arm on it or just replace the whole a arm and parts
Sometimes yet they can be kind of tough. Sorry you’re having so much trouble.
What grease should be used in these? I see lithium grease being sold everywhere to grease tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. but I don't remember it being lithium grease back in the day....lol
Any grease is better than no grease...haha. Lithium grease is standard faire these days. . For this a good all-purpose chassis grease. Synthetic is of course the best option pretty much anywhere but any good lithium stuff that says it's for chassis use is fine. Wheel bearings and the like have a different kind of grease that has different additives/higher melting points, etc..
I don't know if that was helpful...
You didn't put on the light blue plastic spacer on end of new tie rod.
Anymajordude5 Explain I don’t know what you’re talking about?
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair I just replaced my inner tie rods on a 06 Caravan which is supposedly exactly the same as the Town and Country. On the rack side of tie rod were plastic spacers. I noticed the one you replaced did not have it and the new one didn't. Maybe the T and C don't use them. Just surprised or the previous replacement left it off mistakenly.
That’s interesting I haven’t seen blue plastic spacers. Can you send me a picture?
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair See 7:59 of this video. th-cam.com/video/HUUTMAB7Nu0/w-d-xo.html
OK now I see what you’re talking about. So the old part came off didn’t have to put a spacer. And the new part going on spacer was not supplied. I’ve seen the metal ones and the blue is usually they’re supplied. Not sure why this one didn’t have it
Using Detroit Axel complete front end kit $246 Amazon
( it’s uses castle nuts w/ cotter pin and angel Zurks, plus thicker rubber)
I did the struts -torqued to 95lbs+90*
Sway links - held them on the backsides w/ vise grips.
Lower control arm- dropped the cradle
Tightened and painted nuts and bolts
Then checked to verified.
Thanks to your video
South main auto -TH-cam
Burton auto- you tube
Jim Stevens -you tube
Doing the same thing. Replacing all that stuff at once is just smart! Axles, lower control arms (don't mess with ball joints and bushings, just buy the control arms), sway links, inner and outer tie rod ends. It's great to get the boots that come with the inner tie rods! I got the kit without the struts though. Smart idea to paint the nuts and bolts after you tightened them to make sure they don't move! I will implement that in my job!
Worst design ever
I did one side and it had a damaged blue travel limiter on the inside part of the inner tie rod. I didnt see them on the one you did. I cant find anywhere that sells em. How essential are they?
papabear1245 I haven’t had that problem before. I would say always leaned on the side of putting back the way it originally came.
hey good video but you 4got to put the spacer/plastic washer back on that dose need to be there! and use blue locktight not red ull never get it back off when the inner tie rod gos bad again! hate after market parts!
Good deal thanks
Thank you for sharing this video great job, I have an 05 to do😊
Welcome thank you
Would it be the same or an 2008 Chrysler town and country lx
George Byers yes
Ok thank you I heard some wasn’t serviceable
Thank you
No problem anytime
Did you forget the inside clamp on boot?
Of course not don’t always show everything
@@CoopersAutomotiveRepair Impossible to put the clamp back on a 2012 Town and Country.
Do you add grease to the inner ball joint?
@@marclamb228 I just did mine with Moog parts. It was permanently greased with no way to add more.
Wish you could do mine.
i can see using thread lock But RED, next guys going to HATE you, BLUE works just find.
Dude. Video could've been less than 5 mins long. Geez.
Tru Tru This is true and understand it gets boring with Google do you need to have videos to be at least eight minutes long to even count ratings