ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Here I go thru the issue I have in my Marshall MG30CFX (hopefully the only, it's my first Solid State Marshall).
I just grabbed it from a reasonably good deal on "local eBay" (mercado livre), and it's an UK 230V, 70W version.
Prior to taking this video, I plugged the amp in 127V (our usual outlets are rated as much), and noticed this issue with the knob. It is not going the whole range it seems.
I have later tried contact cleaner spray and all I got was a less smooth knob actuation (it had some kind of grease for smooth action). I then do not recommend using contact cleaners on modern Marshall potentiometers unless you really got scratchy behavior, for the smooth actuation "feel" that is lost in the process.
In the end, after plugging in 220V /and/ reseting to factory settings, it still displayed the same behavior. No octave FX for me. It is not a biggie, but would be a nice to have if there's a simple solution to that!
Sorry for my weird English accent! :) You're not going to see it anywhere else!
same
I have no answers for you on this issue, I only used a bit of delay with mine, but my gain channel didn’t work on mine, and I never did fix it.
Hope you get it sorted out brother.
Mitch
You found the video before I posted it in MF! lol I was waiting its HD version to be processed before I updated the thread. :) Hope someone can point me in the right direction with that.
Avenger X
There is another forum that I would like you to check out, I am also a member there.
It’s called The Tone Rooms (TTR) there are some great guys over there that may be able to help you as well.
Give it a look
@@mitchpearrow4888 cool, I may have cornered out this issue here, but maybe I get good help on that whistling nuisance! :) thanks!
My next test is trying to plug it in a “real” 220V outlet without using any conversor or trafo. I’m still thinking it’s something to low tension or potency. Meaning, the expected tension it requires is ~= 230 V and 40W. If the input is considerably below that, it might not have the minimum required resources to kick in the octaves.
@@mitchpearrow4888 Thanks for tips, Mitch! Don’t want to open and dig in its guts yet...
Did this ever get fixed?
Nope. Opening the box is a bit... scary, as it's a tight fit -- needs to be pried open if I want access to the circuitry. Letting the amp warm up eventually gets the octave to kick in. So really seems a matter of replacing the pot.
Same...
This looks like a weak soldering point, but I still haven't gone the path of removing that tight backplate of the amp
@@heavenlyavenger My home is 127v so I bought a conversor from 127V to 220V with 500W and 60Hz. But I didn’t really tested what the actual tension was coming out of the outlet on the supposedly 127V side.
@@TriGrutt yes, even if you plugged it in 127V you shouldn't have had much problem (the opposite is!) aside of half wattage from the amp. The tempo light may also become nuts when you change from 127V to 240V. :P (just a quick reset seats it back though)
Same thing here
Sometimes when I turn the amp on it works, and then afer using for a while, as thjngs warms up, it stops again