John Magee thanks for the support man! i definitely do miss the vortex days, but it was only a matter of time before something smoother and faster came along and left it in the dust, facebook. i always look back on and dissect the death of it though and it’s part of why i started this channel, seeing so many diy’s and write ups with dead pictures that make the threads mostly useless. but anyhoo, thanks again and feel free to throw some suggestions out there.
oh snap that’s awesome to hear. I know it’s not the best structured or well organized video out there dealing with carb swaps but glad to hear it’s helped to some extent!
Mohammed Gangat yeah a single 38 is pushing it for these smaller motors depending on the setup. i have dual 44’s in my truck with a 2.0 but those are jetted accordingly.
@@mk1rabbithole mine has this set up.. my car kept dyeing at red lights.. so i added a presure regulator than i would dye while running, now removed the fuel intank pump add added a carb fuel pump at the engine bay. Car dyes when passing 3500 psi. Why is that
DUDE!!!!!! thank you so much for this video. I'm literally in the process of doin this to my 1980 vw rabbit custom. .. I've ben trying to find anytin that would/could help me n I found this video. Thank you so much. Cant wait to c what else you post . Thank you
Nicholas Sandy haha talk about timing, that’s awesome though. i obviously wish i could’ve done the actual process to film, but if you watch my older videos you’ll see we did a torture test and killed the old CIS motor that was in here so i didn’t exactly convert it to carb while it was running. new motor that went in was setup out of the car. just give me a holler if you run into any issues, glad to help if i can.
Nicholas Sandy OH and i totally just remembered i didn’t go over the vacuum line to the distributor in this video 🤦🏼♂️ you’ll need to get vacuum from in the intake manifold for your brake booster, and then another smaller line off that line to go to your distributor for the vacuum advance. this car didn’t have power brakes so it’s just one small line you can see in the video coming off the center/leftish side of the manifold and going straight to distributor.
@@mk1rabbithole thank you so much I will definitely be giving u a holler. This is a whole new experience for me. My car is my dream car n I dont want to screw it up. I do have 1 question for u rite now tho. Rite in behind the dis cap I have a block that has tmrw lines goin into it . 1 what is that part 2 what do I need to replace that with ??? Thank you so much again !!! U rock 🤘🤘🤘
@@mk1rabbithole I will see I can get one that's good enough to show the part I'm talking about.. Thank you Merry Christmas n happy new year to you n yours
ideally you will want a wideband 02 sensor and gauge to monitor your air/fuel ratios, and then tune the carb accordingly. the car will most likely run somewhat well just slapping the carb in there but they are not "tuned" out of the box.
ok so sorry in advanced for sounding like a rookie here but does that carb kit come with the proper jets for a rabbit cause i got a brand new carb recently that came with a mk1 engine i got and decided to put it on my car however i don’t believe i’ve got the correct jets due to my car running pretty rough and being a pain to start
no need to be sorry! that’s what we’re all here for. and no they don’t come specifically setup for the rabbits. just being thorough so don’t mind if these questions are redundant or seem excessive. so it ran fine before and all you did was swap the carb parts on? what all did you swap on and did you touch any other parts between these two running period? was your engine timing touched at all during the process of you putting the carb on? did you double and triple check that everything is hooked up properly and you don’t have any vacuum leaks? double and triple check your engine and ignition timing. if it was off before the carb swap the CIS could’ve been compensating fine and the carb not. if all this has been gone through and confirmed to not be your issue then yeah next up let’s focus on the carb. do you have a wideband gauge? if not you should get one so you can tell if you’re running lean, rich, or just right. without a wideband you’re shooting in the dark. aside from the jetting there are a few other adjustments that can be made with those carbs. it’s very overwhelming at first but it’s all simple once you figure it out. google “weber 32/36 tuning manual” it has everything you need to know when tuning these, but again i strongly suggest getting a wideband gauge installed if you don’t have one already.
it wasn’t running well or at all with the cis which is why i bought the carb for the car however it’s not the same exact carb you have so that’s why i’m unsure if it’s jetted correctly for the car, i will hook a wideband up and see what i can figure out as well. my buddy has one and said i could use it. it’s definitely at least running now which is a step closer than it was with the cis system however it will only idle without me giving it a little throttle after it’s good and warm (say 10 to 15 minutes of me messing with it and keeping it running) i did find this video extremely useful on swapping everything over. i followed everything step by step for the most part. this is my first gas rabbit i’ve had 3 diesels in the past. we actually had to make an adapter plate for the carb to flip the carb 180 so that the throttle on it would be pulling towards the grille of the car instead of the firewall. since that’s how the throttle cable mounts on the valve cover. the only reason i used that carb instead of just ordering the one you have is the carb came with the manifold and an extra mk1 engine and trans it was mounted to for $500. the carb and manifold also appear to be brand new
I've been having an issue with my 1.7 engine cutting off, my mechanic told me that it is my fuel pump (mechanical) that stops making contact with the crankshaft, when it does it, I let it rest for few minutes and it starts back up but the idle is rough and I can smell the gasoline all the way inside the cabin. the last time he "fixed" the car, it was running fine for a few months but I still could smell gasoline fumes inside the car and I always felt that the carb was running rich but I didn't experience any hesitation; now it's doing it again. What's your take on this issue? I've been thinking about getting one of those Weber carburators but I'm not sure that will solve my problem and for what I can see, the installation would be very different as the Mexican 1.7 engine fuel delivery system is different from the US one as it does not have the pump and filter right next to the fuel tank. Sorry for this being so long and thank you for a great video.
Can this be done on a newer 1993 cabriolet ?? I’ve had nothing but computer and electrical problems and was thinking of bringing to scrap yard. Carburetor sound like a awesome option. Thanks
my CIS system is way out of whack right now and isn't letting me start. WUR, CSV, and frequency valve are good, pumps are okay but the idle/fuel mixture is just not calibrated anymore to start the car. Not really concerned about power 'cause at this point I'd rather have just a simple, nice working weekend car. At this point would it just be more viable and less headache to pickup a weber kit instead?
i cant really make that call for you, but yes those are the types of scenarios where carb conversion is a reasonable option. just make sure it’s not a spark or compression issue before throwing even more time and money at it ya know?
@@mk1rabbithole i know spark and compression are not the issue for sure and isolated to just the fuel system. Ill give it one more week of repair time to work on CIS and then look at my options for carb conversions haha, thanks
@@mk1rabbithole on my fuel tank it goes out to a fuel reservoir then connects to the fuel pump and accumulator. Would I connect into that reservoir or just go directly from tank?
sorry never added the info on that. it’s a 5/16th to 1/2” which still wasn’t an ideal fit but it works on these early rabbits. i’m forgetting if the late and swallowtail rabbits have same size fuel tank feed. i added the ebay link to the exact fitting i used to the video description.
the rAbb1t hole No worries. Perfect! Ha. I’ll just place an order on amazon..if they even have them. The fun part is gonna be trying to figure out how to mount the new fuel pump. Lol
Tim Lewis yeah only place i could find them were off ebay from china, but that was a year and a half ago so might be an option on amazon. as for the fuel pump i never really made a proper bracket and just always ziptie them up, makes it easier for them roadside fixes especially if you end up needing to grab a random pump from an auto parts store far from home.
the rAbb1t hole Thanks! I finished running everything last night and it turned out quite well. Found the fitting on amazon, and the fuel lines at a buddies. Is the fuel line that runs across the engine bay to the carb 5/16 as well?
simple money solid move. CIS is great but finding parts for them are okay getting more expensive and harder to find. i don’t see these weber carbs going anywhere anytime soon, too many people using them on all different cars.
most mk1s have in line pumps, I think later cabriolet‘s have in tank pumps but the in line pumps are easy enough to bypass and replace so it doesn’t make much sense to regulate it down to lower fuel pressure. Ultimately yes you can use the stock fuel pumps regardless of which set up it is but you need to regulate the pressure down severely. I personally would never want to do that despite people having success with doing so. I don’t think enough people have done it to make me feel at ease about choking the fuel system down like that. hope my opinion helps!
@@mk1rabbithole i dont think so. The previous owner brazed a steel plate to the bottom and a home made gasket that was half an inch thick. But on the bright side i have a magnum flow intake manifold.
What’s that block off plate called on top of the oil filter on the block, I have two cis lines running to it should it be deleted for the carb conversion?
that might be the warm up regulator you’re talking about, but i’d need to see pictures or see it in person to confirm. generally speaking, anything unused from the CIS system should be removed/blocked off.
We’re switching over to carb it’s a 350 Holley but I’m sure the same applies but we had the jetronic ecu still hooked up and all the cis removes except the injectors and it started to rev out of control could the vacuum from the compression be opening the injectors up and causing it to rev like that
it’s definitely possible. Between the injectors themselves, the O-rings around them, and the injector cups them self there are definitely multiple potential vacuum leaks in the set up you are describing. You should pull the injectors regardless and seal them up like I mentioned just to eliminate that possibility altogether.
The other thing is that the ecu was back charging the coil so we couldn’t shut it down either do you think wiring it to it’s own cut off switch would help
@@matthewlambert4989 personally, i would figure out why it’s doing that and fix the source of the problem. adding a cutoff switch is just bandaid. to add, i’d be concerned about a fire hazard if it’s getting power when it shouldn’t.
@@matthewlambert4989 Sorry I’m not familiar with the way jetTronic is wired up so if that’s the case then yes I would add a kill switch. but again I’m not familiar with the way that it is wired or powered so I really can’t give you a trustworthy suggestion on that.
you can buy them with the carb if you buy them new, otherwise look around for someone selling one. they are not a factory item. some of these early rabbits had carbs but i’m not at all familiar with the intakes from those and whether or not they’re similar to these and/or comparable with these weber carbs.
Nicholas Heckman no you should be able to delete the accumulator, i have not done this conversion on a mk2 though so not sure how similar the fuel system is back there.
No accumulator needed as long as you run a pressure regulator/bypass regulator. You dont want to burn out your electric fuel pumps by only having fuel flow to the carb :)
SRGTLORD i understand it’s many months later but just to confirm, i’ll be connecting my intake electric fuel pump with a minimum psi of 101 to a fuel regulator, then a filter, then the carb?
rick braz you might wanna check with the mk2 guys, i did not know of any mk1’s with in tank pumps till now. i would look up and see what kind of pressure it puts out, if it’s under 10psi then you might be able to get away with using it and using a pressure regulator. otherwise look into bypassing it/removing it.
I did a holley carb swap on my cabriolet. I used .the intank pump and the external pump to a by-pass regulator that went to my holley carb. The holley carb liked to have 8psi. Heres my old thread from years ago. www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/let-the-carb-conversion-begin.22072/
WeLoveMk1 unfortunately yes. it was one of those cars i wanted more than i needed. knew beforehand it would be one of those i’d regret selling immediately but the stress off my back and money in my pocket was more important. big part of me would rather a early westy 4 door anyways.
i’ve seen it done once or twice with smaller carbs like that. for a stock motor i’m sure it handles the fuel demands just fine. i’d definitely want something a bit beefier if i was gonna do even an exhaust or cam.
i’ve seen it done once or twice with smaller carbs like that. for a stock motor i’m sure it handles the fuel demands just fine. i’d definitely want something a bit beefier if i was gonna do even an exhaust or cam.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Been in the mk1 scene for a while.. finally some quality mk1 stuff.. ahh i miss the vortex days sometimes. Keep up the great videos
John Magee thanks for the support man! i definitely do miss the vortex days, but it was only a matter of time before something smoother and faster came along and left it in the dust, facebook. i always look back on and dissect the death of it though and it’s part of why i started this channel, seeing so many diy’s and write ups with dead pictures that make the threads mostly useless. but anyhoo, thanks again and feel free to throw some suggestions out there.
I’ve watched this video countless times.
Just ordered my carb kit and have my cis shit all pulled out. Getting excited to finally drive this cat
oh snap that’s awesome to hear. I know it’s not the best structured or well organized video out there dealing with carb swaps but glad to hear it’s helped to some extent!
You are awesome! I'm doing this conversion right now and this is the best video i've seen on the subject so far.
awesome glad it helps! wish i could’ve actually filmed a conversion in the process but this was better than nothing.
I did once fit a weber 38 on a 2 litre,did gain power but too much overfuelling,go with a 32 or 36 max as he says (good advice)
Mohammed Gangat yeah a single 38 is pushing it for these smaller motors depending on the setup. i have dual 44’s in my truck with a 2.0 but those are jetted accordingly.
Finally somebody explained this so I can do my caddy
simple money glad to help!
Having just done this, it was fun. and I used pennies.
right! even though it’s a simple job it’s still a very rewarding swap to do.
just rebuilt my 32/36 today for my 77, perfect timing! great vid
Luke Almquist nice! they’re a breeze to rebuild. it’s having to thoroughly tune them that becomes overwhelming.
@@mk1rabbithole mine has this set up.. my car kept dyeing at red lights.. so i added a presure regulator than i would dye while running, now removed the fuel intank pump add added a carb fuel pump at the engine bay. Car dyes when passing 3500 psi. Why is that
DUDE!!!!!!
thank you so much for this video. I'm literally in the process of doin this to my 1980 vw rabbit custom. ..
I've ben trying to find anytin that would/could help me n I found this video. Thank you so much. Cant wait to c what else you post . Thank you
Nicholas Sandy haha talk about timing, that’s awesome though. i obviously wish i could’ve done the actual process to film, but if you watch my older videos you’ll see we did a torture test and killed the old CIS motor that was in here so i didn’t exactly convert it to carb while it was running. new motor that went in was setup out of the car.
just give me a holler if you run into any issues, glad to help if i can.
Nicholas Sandy OH and i totally just remembered i didn’t go over the vacuum line to the distributor in this video 🤦🏼♂️ you’ll need to get vacuum from in the intake manifold for your brake booster, and then another smaller line off that line to go to your distributor for the vacuum advance. this car didn’t have power brakes so it’s just one small line you can see in the video coming off the center/leftish side of the manifold and going straight to distributor.
@@mk1rabbithole thank you so much I will definitely be giving u a holler. This is a whole new experience for me. My car is my dream car n I dont want to screw it up. I do have 1 question for u rite now tho. Rite in behind the dis cap I have a block that has tmrw lines goin into it . 1 what is that part 2 what do I need to replace that with ???
Thank you so much again !!! U rock 🤘🤘🤘
i’m not too sure what kinda block you’re talking about. but i’d recommend posting a video on your own channel so i can see it.
@@mk1rabbithole
I will see I can get one that's good enough to show the part I'm talking about..
Thank you
Merry Christmas n happy new year to you n yours
Watching from South Africa
prince gezane wow awesome! thanks for stopping by
South African here
All the way FROM Tanzania, bout to do this conversion. Great guide here. Much appreciated
Is it trick to tune a single Webber 44 with my 8V ? Or I can just run not out of the box brand new
Thanks for this good video
ideally you will want a wideband 02 sensor and gauge to monitor your air/fuel ratios, and then tune the carb accordingly. the car will most likely run somewhat well just slapping the carb in there but they are not "tuned" out of the box.
Awesome video I was wondering a few things that you answered
Hi what is the brand for the that beefy yellow spark plug wires?
ok so sorry in advanced for sounding like a rookie here but does that carb kit come with the proper jets for a rabbit cause i got a brand new carb recently that came with a mk1 engine i got and decided to put it on my car however i don’t believe i’ve got the correct jets due to my car running pretty rough and being a pain to start
no need to be sorry! that’s what we’re all here for. and no they don’t come specifically setup for the rabbits. just being thorough so don’t mind if these questions are redundant or seem excessive. so it ran fine before and all you did was swap the carb parts on? what all did you swap on and did you touch any other parts between these two running period? was your engine timing touched at all during the process of you putting the carb on? did you double and triple check that everything is hooked up properly and you don’t have any vacuum leaks? double and triple check
your engine and ignition timing. if it was off before the carb swap the CIS could’ve been compensating fine and the carb not. if all this has been gone through and confirmed to not be your issue then yeah next up let’s focus on the carb. do you have a wideband gauge? if not you should get one so you can tell if you’re running lean, rich, or just right. without a wideband you’re shooting in the dark. aside from the jetting there are a few other adjustments that can be made with those carbs. it’s very overwhelming at first but it’s all
simple once you figure it out. google “weber 32/36 tuning manual” it has everything you need to know when tuning these, but again i strongly suggest getting a wideband gauge installed if you don’t have one already.
it wasn’t running well or at all with the cis which is why i bought the carb for the car however it’s not the same exact carb you have so that’s why i’m unsure if it’s jetted correctly for the car, i will hook a wideband up and see what i can figure out as well. my buddy has one and said i could use it. it’s definitely at least running now which is a step closer than it was with the cis system however it will only idle without me giving it a little throttle after it’s good and warm (say 10 to 15 minutes of me messing with it and keeping it running) i did find this video extremely useful on swapping everything over. i followed everything step by step for the most part. this is my first gas rabbit i’ve had 3 diesels in the past. we actually had to make an adapter plate for the carb to flip the carb 180 so that the throttle on it would be pulling towards the grille of the car instead of the firewall. since that’s how the throttle cable mounts on the valve cover. the only reason i used that carb instead of just ordering the one you have is the carb came with the manifold and an extra mk1 engine and trans it was mounted to for $500. the carb and manifold also appear to be brand new
I've been having an issue with my 1.7 engine cutting off, my mechanic told me that it is my fuel pump (mechanical) that stops making contact with the crankshaft, when it does it, I let it rest for few minutes and it starts back up but the idle is rough and I can smell the gasoline all the way inside the cabin. the last time he "fixed" the car, it was running fine for a few months but I still could smell gasoline fumes inside the car and I always felt that the carb was running rich but I didn't experience any hesitation; now it's doing it again. What's your take on this issue? I've been thinking about getting one of those Weber carburators but I'm not sure that will solve my problem and for what I can see, the installation would be very different as the Mexican 1.7 engine fuel delivery system is different from the US one as it does not have the pump and filter right next to the fuel tank. Sorry for this being so long and thank you for a great video.
Hi i have mk1 i wants to change to carburetor where can I get inlet manifold and carburetor from please help me iam living in canada
How do you cap the warm up regulator it doesn’t show in the video
Thanks alot for this video I'm thinking about carb swaping my mk2 scirocco
awesome, hope it helps with your decision. holler if you have any questions.
Can this be done on a newer 1993 cabriolet ?? I’ve had nothing but computer and electrical problems and was thinking of bringing to scrap yard. Carburetor sound like a awesome option. Thanks
Exact reason I'm here haha. Stupid '91 won't run
How has the reliability been and how about running a Webber at say 7000 feet altitude...
my CIS system is way out of whack right now and isn't letting me start. WUR, CSV, and frequency valve are good, pumps are okay but the idle/fuel mixture is just not calibrated anymore to start the car. Not really concerned about power 'cause at this point I'd rather have just a simple, nice working weekend car.
At this point would it just be more viable and less headache to pickup a weber kit instead?
i cant really make that call for you, but yes those are the types of scenarios where carb conversion is a reasonable option. just make sure it’s not a spark or compression issue before throwing even more time and money at it ya know?
@@mk1rabbithole i know spark and compression are not the issue for sure and isolated to just the fuel system. Ill give it one more week of repair time to work on CIS and then look at my options for carb conversions haha, thanks
@@mk1rabbithole on my fuel tank it goes out to a fuel reservoir then connects to the fuel pump and accumulator. Would I connect into that reservoir or just go directly from tank?
What size reducer fitting did you use between the tank and the fuel filter? 3/8 to 5/16th?
sorry never added the info on that. it’s a 5/16th to 1/2” which still wasn’t an ideal fit but it works on these early rabbits. i’m forgetting if the late and swallowtail rabbits have same size fuel tank feed. i added the ebay link to the exact fitting i used to the video description.
i do have a few extra fittings if you would rather i send you one than risk anything from covid19’s ground zero 😂
the rAbb1t hole No worries. Perfect! Ha. I’ll just place an order on amazon..if they even have them. The fun part is gonna be trying to figure out how to mount the new fuel pump. Lol
Tim Lewis yeah only place i could find them were off ebay from china, but that was a year and a half ago so might be an option on amazon. as for the fuel pump i never really made a proper bracket and just always ziptie them up, makes it easier for them roadside fixes especially if you end up needing to grab a random pump from an auto parts store far from home.
the rAbb1t hole Thanks! I finished running everything last night and it turned out quite well. Found the fitting on amazon, and the fuel lines at a buddies. Is the fuel line that runs across the engine bay to the carb 5/16 as well?
U can find the manifold and carb as a kit for 400. Great video though. Doing this so my kid can inherit my caddy and can work on it easily.
simple money solid move. CIS is great but finding parts for them are okay getting more expensive and harder to find. i don’t see these weber carbs going anywhere anytime soon, too many people using them on all different cars.
hey i know this is a late response but could you tell me where you found the carb and mainifold?
How do you plug where the injectors go,what do you use
You think you could use the stock in-tank pump alone to feed the carburetor?
most mk1s have in line pumps, I think later cabriolet‘s have in tank pumps but the in line pumps are easy enough to bypass and replace so it doesn’t make much sense to regulate it down to lower fuel pressure. Ultimately yes you can use the stock fuel pumps regardless of which set up it is but you need to regulate the pressure down severely. I personally would never want to do that despite people having success with doing so. I don’t think enough people have done it to make me feel at ease about choking the fuel system down like that. hope my opinion helps!
Where did you get your air filter? I bought a 1989 golf with a carb conversion already done but i cant find an air filter that will fit
Kw Skater amazon! do you have the same carb? weber 32/36?
@@mk1rabbithole i dont think so. The previous owner brazed a steel plate to the bottom and a home made gasket that was half an inch thick. But on the bright side i have a magnum flow intake manifold.
Where did the carburetor come off of?
Do you know what size belts are on the cis intake manifold
What’s that block off plate called on top of the oil filter on the block, I have two cis lines running to it should it be deleted for the carb conversion?
that might be the warm up regulator you’re talking about, but i’d need to see pictures or see it in person to confirm. generally speaking, anything unused from the CIS system should be removed/blocked off.
i have the same question...
We’re switching over to carb it’s a 350 Holley but I’m sure the same applies but we had the jetronic ecu still hooked up and all the cis removes except the injectors and it started to rev out of control could the vacuum from the compression be opening the injectors up and causing it to rev like that
it’s definitely possible. Between the injectors themselves, the O-rings around them, and the injector cups them self there are definitely multiple potential vacuum leaks in the set up you are describing. You should pull the injectors regardless and seal them up like I mentioned just to eliminate that possibility altogether.
The other thing is that the ecu was back charging the coil so we couldn’t shut it down either do you think wiring it to it’s own cut off switch would help
@@matthewlambert4989 personally, i would figure out why it’s doing that and fix the source of the problem. adding a cutoff switch is just bandaid. to add, i’d be concerned about a fire hazard if it’s getting power when it shouldn’t.
Right we were told it was because the ecu was had nothing to control and it was back charging
@@matthewlambert4989 Sorry I’m not familiar with the way jetTronic is wired up so if that’s the case then yes I would add a kill switch. but again I’m not familiar with the way that it is wired or powered so I really can’t give you a trustworthy suggestion on that.
Where do you get the intake? Is it aftermarket or can I find one in the junkyard?
you can buy them with the carb if you buy them new, otherwise look around for someone selling one. they are not a factory item. some of these early rabbits had carbs but i’m not at all familiar with the intakes from those and whether or not they’re similar to these and/or comparable with these weber carbs.
Thank you.
I'm finishing up this conversion on my MK2. Ive switched to a low pressure pump. Do I still need to run the accumulator?
Nicholas Heckman no you should be able to delete the accumulator, i have not done this conversion on a mk2 though so not sure how similar the fuel system is back there.
No accumulator needed as long as you run a pressure regulator/bypass regulator. You dont want to burn out your electric fuel pumps by only having fuel flow to the carb :)
SRGTLORD i understand it’s many months later but just to confirm, i’ll be connecting my intake electric fuel pump with a minimum psi of 101 to a fuel regulator, then a filter, then the carb?
SRGTLORD sorry no context i’m doing this switch on an 89 cabriolet with an in tank fuel pump
bought redline kit for my 86 cabrio.also low pressure fuel pump and regulator,now realize i have intank fuel pump on car .any ideas?
rick braz you might wanna check with the mk2 guys, i did not know of any mk1’s with in tank pumps till now. i would look up and see what kind of pressure it puts out, if it’s under 10psi then you might be able to get away with using it and using a pressure regulator. otherwise look into bypassing it/removing it.
I did a holley carb swap on my cabriolet. I used .the intank pump and the external pump to a by-pass regulator that went to my holley carb. The holley carb liked to have 8psi. Heres my old thread from years ago. www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/let-the-carb-conversion-begin.22072/
What did you do to change your warm up regulator
i didn’t touch it 🤷🏼♂️ haven’t touched it on any of my carb conversions.
How did you connect the ignition coil to the distributor and to the battery
Ismael Marquez everything with the ignition here is as it came from the factory.
If you want to get real crazy you can put a points distributor and coil on so you only need 3 wires to run the ignition system :)
Do you know how to wire a newer hall style distributor?
i don’t sorry.
How do you block off the WUR?
just unplugged it and tucked the wiring and plug off out of the way.
Have you done a 16v carb?
Dylan Lighthall#WA no i haven’t myself. the process should be fairly identical.
So, is this thing sold and gone?
WeLoveMk1 unfortunately yes. it was one of those cars i wanted more than i needed. knew beforehand it would be one of those i’d regret selling immediately but the stress off my back and money in my pocket was more important. big part of me would rather a early westy 4 door anyways.
Anyone done it with a pict 34 carb?
i’ve seen it done once or twice with smaller carbs like that. for a stock motor i’m sure it handles the fuel demands just fine. i’d definitely want something a bit beefier if i was gonna do even an exhaust or cam.
i’ve seen it done once or twice with smaller carbs like that. for a stock motor i’m sure it handles the fuel demands just fine. i’d definitely want something a bit beefier if i was gonna do even an exhaust or cam.