Thank you for your information & i just purchased this saw yesterday after watching your channel. Have a great day & a long time age 56yrs i left Dortmund for Australia and still look for German made ( drive Cayenne Turbo ) have a great day
Glad to hear my video was useful to you. Greetings to Down Under - the country where I spent some of the best weeks of m life on a trip and met some of the nicest people in my life.
I bought this saw myself, i think its a good saw it has got some bad reviews about cutting square and problems with warped base plate.I have not had any issue with the saw myself and you can buy bench dogs that mount underneath the track which makes the track compatible with mft type benches.Bisch bash Bosch channel have a great video on youtube about bench dogs and Bosch Corp made a youtube video regarding the warped base, hope this post helps anyone considering purchasing this tool also a great review by John Mc Grath youtube channal about this saw, Great review thanks Andreas
Hi Andreas. Great tips. Cheers. I just came back from Oz after having spend several years travelling the world, the last four in Australia. Am setting up a woodworking space at my new place, here in Switzerland, and I really appreciate the useful information you provide. Only downside: getting all tools at once burns a hole in the budget!!! Take care, all the best.
this Setup is quite useful if you don't have any other solution like miter or tablet saw. Surely very intersting for beginners. I myself never really worked with anything like that, but more when I began with my cordless mini circular handsaw. 😎 very well shown. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Hi, thank you for the video. I had a question, how do you adjust the blade if it is not 90 degrees to the base plate? I just got my saw, checked if it was square, but it wasn’t. I used the grub screw for the adjustment, but it is not 90 degrees still. Much better then before.
For solving the track/saw width problem, I took a 5mm HDF board, cut it to the size (L, w) of the Bosch track. Then glued two strips of wood 10mm (w) x 3mm (h) parallel to each other on the HDF. These strips fit in the grooves below the track . Then fixed said HDF perpendicularly to a fence. When I want to cut I place the track on the HDF and use the Bosch clamps to take any mechanical load away from the parallel wooden strips.
I bought the Makita and had some regrets about not getting this Bosch ( the Makita was cheaper), until I saw that the Bosch track doesn’t work easily in the crosscut jig you have. I like these saws a lot, especially after 20 years of using a typical circular saw with a guide board clamped to make straight cuts.
Andreas - nice video! I am in the USA and imported this saw and tracks. I had to turn down the speed because power is 60 Hz here. I built a Paulk cross cut jig for my Paulk workbenches which is used in much the same manner as your setup. I had to modify the cross section where the track mounts to match the Bosch rail but it works great. Try locating that (or buying the plans like I did) for a few ideas. Keep up the videos on this system - there are NOT enough on TH-cam.
How did you overcome the problem of adjusting the saw's play for each of the tracks? I understand the Bosch fits loosely on the Festool/Makita tracks. And if you use the saw with lateral play... of course you chew up your splinter guard to the point it won't indicate your true cut line. So do you just adjust every time you switch? For me that sounds like a nightmare. I'm up against the same problem with my Mafell Mt55 and the MFT style table system.
I drilled a hole through each of the round knobs with which you adjust the play. Then I put a small rod (o 3 mm) through the hole so that it sticks out a little at one end and some more at the other. With this, turning the knob becomes easier and the piece that sticks out a little acts as an indicator. Then I used a felt pen to mark the two positions that the knob has to be in, for the Festool track and for the Bosch track.
A great shop addition and maybe for beginners the ideal first sewing project is a sleeve for your vacuum hose, so you can route the cable internally and the hose doesn't snag so easily on any edges. Made mine from faux leather, which is affordable, durable and super easy to work with, because it doesn't fray.
I made mine with a full length zipper, so it's not that much of a hassle to switch. The Festool cable system is really genius once you tried it and it would be awesome to have it on all your power tools, but it works just fine with normal cords as well. I mean I wouldn't constantly switch between tools, but for example if I got a couple of pieces to sand at a time, I will use the sleeve. No constant snagging, only one wobbly long thing to worry about and no more risk of tearing pieces out of you almost finished piece.
Very funny, i also use the GKT with pleasure. I am using the LR32 Rails and in addition the OFA for my Bosch Router. Great System. And also iam using these Gramercy Tools Holdfasts for holding Workpieces. Better than any other clamp! Nice Video!
Thanks for the movie, very informative! I really like your big metal clamps :-), extremely fast and cool solution. And solution for repeative cuts is nicely done.
Informative movie. Is it possible to adjust the Bosch saw with the Festool rail to be without play and cut perfectly, even on long cuts? On the video it looks like still has some play, even when you adjust the knobs. I have the same saw, considering buying a Festool rail for it. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, you can adjust it tonnage zero play. One thing, though. You have to remove one of the green sliding strips on the Festool track from its original position (which is in a small groove) and place it on the top surface like the other one. Otherwise you don’t get a right angle. I used a hair drier for removal and double sided tape to put it back on. I have a blog article in German on how I did that: holzhandwerk.andreas-kalt.de/anpassung-der-festool-fuehrungsschiene-fuer-die-bosch-handkreissaege/
Hi Great video, very informative. Quick question, about the tracks and the fact that the base of the saw overhangs on the bosch track. Is the Bosch Professional FSN RA 32 800 track slightly wider than a normal track? and is it wide enough to solve the problem? Thanks
The festools in Australia are about $928 whereas the Bosch plunge saw is about $650. Dewalt have come out with a 54 volt cordless plunge saw for about $700. Dewalt are really coming up in the market.
Great little tool. Bought mine second-hand for 150 € (new it's at least 300 € in Romania, that's for the bare unit, no L-Boxx or rail). Chose it over the Festool and Makita because of the narrower track, which allows me to sit it on top of smaller pieces of material. Never had the courage to use it without the clamps, I'd rather take the time to set them up than ruin the cut. If you want to minimize the overhang required when using them, check the bottom of the rail : there's a second slot for the clamps, right next to the rubber lip. The only drawback is that you have to remove the plastic end-caps in order to access it.
Great video and good innovation in your bench setup. If you wanted to cut shorter pieces, perhaps you could use the offcut side. That means having an extra board on the open area. I like the way you drilled holes similar to the festool mft table.
Thanks for those tips. Now that I have a table saw the shorter pieces are no longer a challenge. They were when the plunge saw was the only option I had.
I have plunge saw and Bosch track but have only used it to cut down sheets of plywood and find that it slips without the clamps. Do you experience the same issues with plywood? I was considering scuffing the plastic runner with sandpaper to see if it helped, what to you think?
+H2Dwoat I don't have the slipping issue. Maybe there's sawdust on the rubber pads under the track? You cold also check if the saw runs too tightly on the ridge or you could use some dry lubricant on the bottom of the saw (In Germany there's something called Silbergleit, which is a dry paste that you apply to surfaces that need to glide across each other - I don't know that it's international name is). Good luck.
Hallo Herr Kalt. Danke für das Informative Video. Ich habe mit genau die gleiche Frage gestellt. Tischkreissäge oder Tauchsäge. Platzbedingt ist die Tauchsäge mein Favorit. Ich hadere noch zwischen der Bosch oder dem Pondon von Makita.Preislich liegen bei eng zusammen. Haben Sie eventuell auch ein Erfahrung mit der Makita? Bin Ihnen für einen Tip sehr dankbar. Schönen Feiertag.
Dear Andreas, There is one question which comes in my mind when I look this video: Why are you using two track systems. Is the festool track just good enough to do the 90 degree cuts on your table? So that you use the bosch track for all the other cuts. Or is the festool track as good as the bosch track together with the bosch gkt? I am asking because I am think to buy the bosch gkt as well but as you describe also with the festool track to use it on a multifunctional table with bolts like you adjusted your workbench :-) Thanks Thomas
I had already bought two different Bosch tracks before I built the cutting jig from the video so that’s why I stuck with the Bosch tracks. Besides, the mechanism to join two tracks together is better with the Bosch/Mafell track system, I think. But if you start out, you can go with Festool tracks and stick with them, in my opinion. The wider build and the extra T-track which points upwards are very handy for a range of accessories, such as a cross-cut jig which is available from various manufacturers.
Thanks for that information. There are different varieties of the Festool, so it’s hard to compare. In Germany, the Festool is about 100 EUR more expensive.
+Jerolim Moravec there is no simple answer to this because Festool has different versions of the track saw. you can have a look if you search for “festool tauchsäge” on amazon.de or idealo.de
In Norway Festool are 787 EUR and Bosch are like 355 EUR. Big difference, as Bosch are as good or even better than Festool, except the track is too narrow.
Do you mind me asking what you ended up paying for the set with the track, because when I was deciding between tracksaws I ended up with the Mafell in a Systainer and the 1600 track for only marginally (somewhere between 50-100€) more than the comparable Bosch or the Festool sets. Only wish it had the detachable cable system of Festool, but I've seen people modify them and it seems fairly easy.
The set with the 1600 mm track and the clamps was about 425 EUR (including the L-Boxx). Currently, the Mafell with systainer and track costs about 300 EUR more.
I just had a look myself and you're right, the set I got is about 7xx at the moment. Either I got a really good deal last year or they just skyrocketed in popularity or something.
I think you got a good deal. When I was in the market to buy a track saw I compared the Bosch, Mafell and Festool models and the two latter were both a couple of hundred euros more expensive than the Bosch.
Andreas, if you were to work at the left end of the bench rail surely this would give you a closer working distance with less intrusion of saw body and ability to cut shorter pieces. Plus these saws are not very ergonomic for a right handed operator.. this would also improve if you worke at opposite end of bench Regards Stuart.
Vielen Dank für das Video. Mach dir doch eine Art Parallelanschlag auf die rechte Seite deines Tisches. So könntest du kürzere Stücke rechts von der Säge ablängen und sägen.
Danke für den Tipp. Inzwischen habe ich ja aber eine Tischkreissäge mit Cross-cut Schlitten, so dass das kein Problem mehr ist. Ich wollte halt nur darauf hinweisen, dass das ein Nachteil an dem Setup ist.
Hello Andreas Kalt , I have the same set up as you, Bosch saw with festool and Bosch rails. I'm having a problem to get straight cuts on the tracks, running the saw against a straight edge will give me perfectly straight cuts, running the saw on the tracks making a groove 3-4ml gives me a perfectly straight cut. When I cut a sheet of MDF 18mm for example, the front and end of the cut are slightly bowed taking out to much by approximately 1ml. I've checked the rails for straightness, tightened the knobs so the saw runs tight on the tracks and don't put any sideways pressure on the saw. Wondered if you had any advice? I'm tearing my hair out!
@@hadcohn I found I needed to support the track with a piece of scrap the same thickness as the material that I'm cutting, not very convenient when trying to cut a full sheet. After a while it seemed to of fixed itself. I had the same problem running on the Festool or Bosch tracks, so I assume it was an issue with the saw.
@@hadcohn I don't have a pic, but if you have the saw in front of you, blade side faced towards you. Then there is this black plastic thingy on the left side which is the guide when you tilt the blade, and also includes (one) locking screw. Then, still from this view, you can see a small black screw which can be adjusted with a small (mm, not inch!) allen key. The Mafell track saw has two of those screws in the bottom plate, which is the far better solution / place for that. That's one of the reasons I wish I had bought the Mafell saw.
Schneidet deine Bosch am Anschlag exakt 0° und 45° oder musste die Säge erst justiert werden (was nicht in der Anleitung beschrieben ist und eigentlich vom Kundendienst gemacht würde)?
Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Bei meiner neuen ist das leider nicht der Fall. Da stimmen die Winkel nicht. Dann müsste das wohl eigentlich bei einer neuen Maschine ohne "rumspielen" o.k. sein und nicht erst vom Benutzer justiert werden. EDIT: Hab' die Maschine ausgetauscht bekommen. Die neue ist o.k. :-)
Well, I would sure love to own one. But at the moment, I don’t have the space for it and I prioritize other investments in my shop. This setup is very flexible - even though it’s sometimes much cumbersome than a mitre saw.
Ich finde dein Sägetisch noch besser und vielseitiger als der MFT von Festool ... persönlich finde ich auch die Führungsschiene von Festool besser Danke für's zeigen lg Rene
I’m not quite sure but sometimes you might want to make sure that the edge you’re cutting fits tightly against another edge, that is not quite 90 degrees. When you use the -1° option you "undercut", so that the top edge is the only place where the two boards touch while further down (in the thickness of the board) there remains some open space (I hope this makes a little sense, it’s hard to explain without a drawing).
My partial replacement of mitre saw with a plunge saw and Bosch FSN WAN is in one picture - pp.userapi.com/c841124/v841124004/ed30/QNcYOnh6kBc.jpg This solution, of course, also have some limitations. And another one solution is making a groove even in narrow rails - pp.userapi.com/c639917/v639917019/4894e/LIU4k_Opx00.jpg In this case the track also needs a support with the rails of the same thickness.
Schönes Video Andreas. Ja, die Führungsschienen für Bosch und Mafell Tauchsägen... viele Hobbyleute stolpern über die "zu schmale" Führungsschiene, die ein Zuschnittbrett nicht so leicht wie mit der Festool möglich macht. Dafür hat die Bosch-Schiene aber wieder andere Vorteile. Ich will keine Tischkreissäge -- aus verschiedenen Gründen -- und hab' daher nach einer Lösung gesucht, wie man mit der Tauchsäge doch fast alles sicher und reproduzierbar sägen kann. Jetzt bin ich eigentlich so gut wie am Ziel. Vielleicht magst Du mal auf meinem Kanal schauen: th-cam.com/video/eE20LjvnaAY/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyhcllykTuIEFBfEz54AaABAg Die Tage musste ich einen Schwung Dübel kürzen. Mit ein paar Handgriffen war selbst das schnell einzurichten -- ohne irgendwelche Klimmzüge machen zu müssen. Du hast zwar jetzt eine Kreissäge, aber vielleicht doch auch für dich (oder andere Zuschauer) interessant. Wenn Du Ideen zur Optimierung meiner Vorrichtung hast, höre ich das gern. :-)
![Pocket-money Rail Square [video 417][Gifted**]](/img/n.gif)
I've had this saw about 4 years, I've got the 18v Bosch circular saw too, that they made to fit the track. Brilliant saw, no regrets about buying.
Same here.
Thank you for your information & i just purchased this saw yesterday after watching your channel. Have a great day & a long time age 56yrs i left Dortmund for Australia and still look for German made ( drive Cayenne Turbo ) have a great day
Glad to hear my video was useful to you. Greetings to Down Under - the country where I spent some of the best weeks of m life on a trip and met some of the nicest people in my life.
I bought this saw myself, i think its a good saw it has got some bad reviews about cutting square and problems with warped base plate.I have not had any issue with the saw myself and you can buy bench dogs that mount underneath the track which makes the track compatible with mft type benches.Bisch bash Bosch channel have a great video on youtube about bench dogs and Bosch Corp made a youtube video regarding the warped base, hope this post helps anyone considering purchasing this tool also a great review by John Mc Grath youtube channal about this saw, Great review thanks Andreas
Hi Andreas. Great tips. Cheers.
I just came back from Oz after having spend several years travelling the world, the last four in Australia. Am setting up a woodworking space at my new place, here in Switzerland, and I really appreciate the useful information you provide. Only downside: getting all tools at once burns a hole in the budget!!! Take care, all the best.
Thanks Nicolas. And good luck with your new endeavour.
this Setup is quite useful if you don't have any other solution like miter or tablet saw. Surely very intersting for beginners. I myself never really worked with anything like that, but more when I began with my cordless mini circular handsaw. 😎 very well shown. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thanks Appi. I still don’t have a miter saw so it really is useful at times. Thanks for watching.
Hi, thank you for the video. I had a question, how do you adjust the blade if it is not 90 degrees to the base plate? I just got my saw, checked if it was square, but it wasn’t. I used the grub screw for the adjustment, but it is not 90 degrees still. Much better then before.
Very informative indeed! I'm soon going to buy one of these saws and I have found this overview the most useful of the ones I've seen, Many thanks.
Thanks. I’m glad to hear it.
For solving the track/saw width problem, I took a 5mm HDF board, cut it to the size (L, w) of the Bosch track. Then glued two strips of wood 10mm (w) x 3mm (h) parallel to each other on the HDF. These strips fit in the grooves below the track . Then fixed said HDF perpendicularly to a fence. When I want to cut I place the track on the HDF and use the Bosch clamps to take any mechanical load away from the parallel wooden strips.
Thanks for your feedback! Sound great.
I bought the Makita and had some regrets about not getting this Bosch ( the Makita was cheaper), until I saw that the Bosch track doesn’t work easily in the crosscut jig you have. I like these saws a lot, especially after 20 years of using a typical circular saw with a guide board clamped to make straight cuts.
I don’t know the Makita first hand but I’m sure it’s a decent saw as well.
Andreas - nice video! I am in the USA and imported this saw and tracks. I had to turn down the speed because power is 60 Hz here. I built a Paulk cross cut jig for my Paulk workbenches which is used in much the same manner as your setup. I had to modify the cross section where the track mounts to match the Bosch rail but it works great. Try locating that (or buying the plans like I did) for a few ideas. Keep up the videos on this system - there are NOT enough on TH-cam.
Thanks for your feedback, Scott. That sounds very interesting. I’m going to have a look at Paulk’s solution.
Great explanation. Thank you, Andreas!
Thanks!
Vielen dank für den shoutout. The video was very helpful, especially your experiences and jigs.
Thanks for watching, Richard. You’re welcome!
How did you overcome the problem of adjusting the saw's play for each of the tracks? I understand the Bosch fits loosely on the Festool/Makita tracks. And if you use the saw with lateral play... of course you chew up your splinter guard to the point it won't indicate your true cut line.
So do you just adjust every time you switch? For me that sounds like a nightmare.
I'm up against the same problem with my Mafell Mt55 and the MFT style table system.
I drilled a hole through each of the round knobs with which you adjust the play. Then I put a small rod (o 3 mm) through the hole so that it sticks out a little at one end and some more at the other. With this, turning the knob becomes easier and the piece that sticks out a little acts as an indicator. Then I used a felt pen to mark the two positions that the knob has to be in, for the Festool track and for the Bosch track.
A great shop addition and maybe for beginners the ideal first sewing project is a sleeve for your vacuum hose, so you can route the cable internally and the hose doesn't snag so easily on any edges.
Made mine from faux leather, which is affordable, durable and super easy to work with, because it doesn't fray.
Thanks for the tip. I use the hose for other power tools as well, though. So I’d also have to switch to detachable power cords.
I made mine with a full length zipper, so it's not that much of a hassle to switch. The Festool cable system is really genius once you tried it and it would be awesome to have it on all your power tools, but it works just fine with normal cords as well.
I mean I wouldn't constantly switch between tools, but for example if I got a couple of pieces to sand at a time, I will use the sleeve. No constant snagging, only one wobbly long thing to worry about and no more risk of tearing pieces out of you almost finished piece.
+Jan Hagedorn the zipper is a great idea. Thanks for sharing!
Very funny, i also use the GKT with pleasure. I am using the LR32 Rails and in addition the OFA for my Bosch Router. Great System. And also iam using these Gramercy Tools Holdfasts for holding Workpieces. Better than any other clamp! Nice Video!
Thanks for your feedback, Martin!
Great presentation Andreas, you've given me a great idea from viewing your video mate 👍, always a pleasure viewing your builds & tips, cheers Sumo 👍
+Sumo's Projects Thanks Sumo. I'm glad to hear it
Necessity is the mother of invention.Good job.
+American woodworking tricks / Stolarskie Triki Thanks :-)
Thanks for the movie, very informative! I really like your big metal clamps :-), extremely fast and cool solution. And solution for repeative cuts is nicely done.
Thanks - I’m glad to hear it.
Informative movie. Is it possible to adjust the Bosch saw with the Festool rail to be without play and cut perfectly, even on long cuts? On the video it looks like still has some play, even when you adjust the knobs. I have the same saw, considering buying a Festool rail for it. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, you can adjust it tonnage zero play. One thing, though. You have to remove one of the green sliding strips on the Festool track from its original position (which is in a small groove) and place it on the top surface like the other one. Otherwise you don’t get a right angle. I used a hair drier for removal and double sided tape to put it back on. I have a blog article in German on how I did that: holzhandwerk.andreas-kalt.de/anpassung-der-festool-fuehrungsschiene-fuer-die-bosch-handkreissaege/
Hi
Great video, very informative.
Quick question, about the tracks and the fact that the base of the saw overhangs on the bosch track.
Is the Bosch Professional FSN RA 32 800 track slightly wider than a normal track? and is it wide enough to solve the problem?
Thanks
No, they’re both 142 mm wide.
Yes your correct, had it confirmed on the BOB forums.
The festools in Australia are about $928 whereas the Bosch plunge saw is about $650.
Dewalt have come out with a 54 volt cordless plunge saw for about $700. Dewalt are really coming up in the market.
Thanks for those insights Ronald.
Incredibly interesting and helpful. Thanks.
Thank you. You’re welcome.
Danke Andreas für dieses tolle Video - hat mich überzeugt :) LG aus Bad Fischau
Danke. Freut mich.
Very nice attachment &use full.
Thanks.
Great little tool. Bought mine second-hand for 150 € (new it's at least 300 € in Romania, that's for the bare unit, no L-Boxx or rail). Chose it over the Festool and Makita because of the narrower track, which allows me to sit it on top of smaller pieces of material. Never had the courage to use it without the clamps, I'd rather take the time to set them up than ruin the cut. If you want to minimize the overhang required when using them, check the bottom of the rail : there's a second slot for the clamps, right next to the rubber lip. The only drawback is that you have to remove the plastic end-caps in order to access it.
Thanks for these tips!
Great video and good innovation in your bench setup. If you wanted to cut shorter pieces, perhaps you could use the offcut side. That means having an extra board on the open area.
I like the way you drilled holes similar to the festool mft table.
Thanks for those tips. Now that I have a table saw the shorter pieces are no longer a challenge. They were when the plunge saw was the only option I had.
I have plunge saw and Bosch track but have only used it to cut down sheets of plywood and find that it slips without the clamps. Do you experience the same issues with plywood? I was considering scuffing the plastic runner with sandpaper to see if it helped, what to you think?
+H2Dwoat I don't have the slipping issue. Maybe there's sawdust on the rubber pads under the track? You cold also check if the saw runs too tightly on the ridge or you could use some dry lubricant on the bottom of the saw (In Germany there's something called Silbergleit, which is a dry paste that you apply to surfaces that need to glide across each other - I don't know that it's international name is). Good luck.
Hallo Herr Kalt. Danke für das Informative Video.
Ich habe mit genau die gleiche Frage gestellt. Tischkreissäge oder Tauchsäge. Platzbedingt ist die Tauchsäge mein Favorit. Ich hadere noch zwischen der Bosch oder dem Pondon von Makita.Preislich liegen bei eng zusammen. Haben Sie eventuell auch ein Erfahrung mit der Makita? Bin Ihnen für einen Tip sehr dankbar. Schönen Feiertag.
Hallo. Die Makita kenne ich leider nicht, kann daher nichts dazu sagen.
@@holzhandwerk_ak ok. Danke. Grundsätzlich wird man mit der Bosch nichts falsch machen.....
Das denke ich auch.
Dear Andreas,
There is one question which comes in my mind when I look this video:
Why are you using two track systems. Is the festool track just good enough to do the 90 degree cuts on your table? So that you use the bosch track for all the other cuts. Or is the festool track as good as the bosch track together with the bosch gkt? I am asking because I am think to buy the bosch gkt as well but as you describe also with the festool track to use it on a multifunctional table with bolts like you adjusted your workbench :-)
Thanks Thomas
I had already bought two different Bosch tracks before I built the cutting jig from the video so that’s why I stuck with the Bosch tracks. Besides, the mechanism to join two tracks together is better with the Bosch/Mafell track system, I think. But if you start out, you can go with Festool tracks and stick with them, in my opinion. The wider build and the extra T-track which points upwards are very handy for a range of accessories, such as a cross-cut jig which is available from various manufacturers.
Very helpful video. Thank you
You're welcome. Glad you like it.
At the moment, in the UK, the Bosch GKT 55 GCE and Festool TS55 are virtually the same price...though both are very good saws.
Thanks for that information. There are different varieties of the Festool, so it’s hard to compare. In Germany, the Festool is about 100 EUR more expensive.
whats the price in Germany for festool with rail?
+Jerolim Moravec there is no simple answer to this because Festool has different versions of the track saw. you can have a look if you search for “festool tauchsäge” on amazon.de or idealo.de
Thanks :)
In Norway Festool are 787 EUR and Bosch are like 355 EUR. Big difference, as Bosch are as good or even better than Festool, except the track is too narrow.
What a wonderful video/review...!!!! Thank you. (I'm subscribing to your channel)
Thanks for your kind words, Edgar.
Do you mind me asking what you ended up paying for the set with the track, because when I was deciding between tracksaws I ended up with the Mafell in a Systainer and the 1600 track for only marginally (somewhere between 50-100€) more than the comparable Bosch or the Festool sets.
Only wish it had the detachable cable system of Festool, but I've seen people modify them and it seems fairly easy.
The set with the 1600 mm track and the clamps was about 425 EUR (including the L-Boxx). Currently, the Mafell with systainer and track costs about 300 EUR more.
Hmm, I think I paid 460 or 480 for mine
Then you were really lucky ;-)
I just had a look myself and you're right, the set I got is about 7xx at the moment. Either I got a really good deal last year or they just skyrocketed in popularity or something.
I think you got a good deal. When I was in the market to buy a track saw I compared the Bosch, Mafell and Festool models and the two latter were both a couple of hundred euros more expensive than the Bosch.
Andreas, if you were to work at the left end of the bench rail surely this would give you a closer working distance with less intrusion of saw body and ability to cut shorter pieces. Plus these saws are not very ergonomic for a right handed operator.. this would also improve if you worke at opposite end of bench Regards Stuart.
Thanks for the tip. Since I have my moxon vise on the left, this would mean a complet change to my setup.
Hello. What are the dimensions of your workbench ?
Do you have any plans ?
Thanks
Jimmy
It’s 240 cm by 80 cm and 88 cm tall. I don’t have any plans. I inherited the base bench and modified it to what you see in the video.
@@holzhandwerk_ak Thank you
I just wonder, why you didn't go for the festool saw instead of the bosch, when the festool rail system seems to have some advantages over the bosch?
1. the Festool was about 200 EUR more expensive. 2. When I bought the saw, I wasn't aware of these aspects.
Vielen Dank für das Video. Mach dir doch eine Art Parallelanschlag auf die rechte Seite deines Tisches. So könntest du kürzere Stücke rechts von der Säge ablängen und sägen.
Danke für den Tipp. Inzwischen habe ich ja aber eine Tischkreissäge mit Cross-cut Schlitten, so dass das kein Problem mehr ist. Ich wollte halt nur darauf hinweisen, dass das ein Nachteil an dem Setup ist.
Great video...!!! Thank you for sharing...!!!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Perfekt wäre eine FOSCH oder BESTOOL Schiene... 😉
Super Video. Klasse Informationen und sehr unterhaltsam. Dankeschön!
Danke für Dein Feedback, freut mich!
BRAVO ein weiteres tolles video👍
+JENNI.SWISS Vielen Dank Lukas!
Hello Andreas Kalt , I have the same set up as you, Bosch saw with festool and Bosch rails. I'm having a problem to get straight cuts on the tracks, running the saw against a straight edge will give me perfectly straight cuts, running the saw on the tracks making a groove 3-4ml gives me a perfectly straight cut. When I cut a sheet of MDF 18mm for example, the front and end of the cut are slightly bowed taking out to much by approximately 1ml. I've checked the rails for straightness, tightened the knobs so the saw runs tight on the tracks and don't put any sideways pressure on the saw. Wondered if you had any advice? I'm tearing my hair out!
Does this happen with both the Festool AND the Bosch tracks?
I’m having the same problem with my bosch 1.6m tracks. Did you find a solution?!?
@@hadcohn I found I needed to support the track with a piece of scrap the same thickness as the material that I'm cutting, not very convenient when trying to cut a full sheet. After a while it seemed to of fixed itself.
I had the same problem running on the Festool or Bosch tracks, so I assume it was an issue with the saw.
@@00Clive00 thanks for your quick response! Do you mean supporting the track on opposite sides( start and end cut)?
@@hadcohn Yes that's correct, good luck with it.
Hi Andreas, could you tell is there a positive stop to adjust 90 degree(0) on this plunge saw? Mine is a bit off
Actually, I realised later that mine is a little bit off as well.
There are two screws in the saw that let you adjust the 90 and the 45 (and I don’t mean the knobs that unlock the slide haha)
@@thulegezelschap5884 hi, I have the same problem, but can’t locate these two screws you’ve mentioned... could you send a pic? Thanks
@@hadcohn I don't have a pic, but if you have the saw in front of you, blade side faced towards you. Then there is this black plastic thingy on the left side which is the guide when you tilt the blade, and also includes (one) locking screw. Then, still from this view, you can see a small black screw which can be adjusted with a small (mm, not inch!) allen key. The Mafell track saw has two of those screws in the bottom plate, which is the far better solution / place for that. That's one of the reasons I wish I had bought the Mafell saw.
@@dingensundbummens thank you for the detailed answer! I’ll check it out asap.
Schneidet deine Bosch am Anschlag exakt 0° und 45° oder musste die Säge erst justiert werden (was nicht in der Anleitung beschrieben ist und eigentlich vom Kundendienst gemacht würde)?
Sie war gleich korrekt eingestellt.
Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Bei meiner neuen ist das leider nicht der Fall. Da stimmen die Winkel nicht. Dann müsste das wohl eigentlich bei einer neuen Maschine ohne "rumspielen" o.k. sein und nicht erst vom Benutzer justiert werden. EDIT: Hab' die Maschine ausgetauscht bekommen. Die neue ist o.k. :-)
Great review.
Danke! Das Video hilft mir sehr, versuche mit wenig Platz doch eine brauchbare Werkstatt aufzubauen, einfach ist es nicht :)
Viel Erfolg!
I can't get my head around the idea of a woodworker who doesn't buy a mitre saw
Well, I would sure love to own one. But at the moment, I don’t have the space for it and I prioritize other investments in my shop. This setup is very flexible - even though it’s sometimes much cumbersome than a mitre saw.
Thank you... Good overview!!!
Thanks.
Ich finde dein Sägetisch noch besser und vielseitiger als der MFT von Festool ...
persönlich finde ich auch die Führungsschiene von Festool besser
Danke für's zeigen
lg Rene
Vielen Dank für Deine Rückmeldung, René!
What are your thoughts on this setup? How do *you* use your track saw? I’d love to hear about it!
i absolutely never understand why there is a minus one degree option on saws , what is it usefull for ?
I’m not quite sure but sometimes you might want to make sure that the edge you’re cutting fits tightly against another edge, that is not quite 90 degrees. When you use the -1° option you "undercut", so that the top edge is the only place where the two boards touch while further down (in the thickness of the board) there remains some open space (I hope this makes a little sense, it’s hard to explain without a drawing).
oh yes that absolutely makes sense ! thank you very much :) !
I saw a video where someone says it makes an even tighter joint for walls or floors etc
You own a hairdryer?
One should never give up hope ;-)
My partial replacement of mitre saw with a plunge saw and Bosch FSN WAN is in one picture - pp.userapi.com/c841124/v841124004/ed30/QNcYOnh6kBc.jpg
This solution, of course, also have some limitations.
And another one solution is making a groove even in narrow rails - pp.userapi.com/c639917/v639917019/4894e/LIU4k_Opx00.jpg In this case the track also needs a support with the rails of the same thickness.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
if you change you bench to cut on the left side there will be no problem with the rail.
Yes, but that would make handling the saw with my right hand a lot more difficult.
@@holzhandwerk_ak sorry, one more question. I would like to by such saw. What rail fits better, give more precise cutting, Festo or Bosch?
Schönes Video Andreas. Ja, die Führungsschienen für Bosch und Mafell Tauchsägen... viele Hobbyleute stolpern über die "zu schmale" Führungsschiene, die ein Zuschnittbrett nicht so leicht wie mit der Festool möglich macht. Dafür hat die Bosch-Schiene aber wieder andere Vorteile. Ich will keine Tischkreissäge -- aus verschiedenen Gründen -- und hab' daher nach einer Lösung gesucht, wie man mit der Tauchsäge doch fast alles sicher und reproduzierbar sägen kann. Jetzt bin ich eigentlich so gut wie am Ziel. Vielleicht magst Du mal auf meinem Kanal schauen: th-cam.com/video/eE20LjvnaAY/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyhcllykTuIEFBfEz54AaABAg
Die Tage musste ich einen Schwung Dübel kürzen. Mit ein paar Handgriffen war selbst das schnell einzurichten -- ohne irgendwelche Klimmzüge machen zu müssen.
Du hast zwar jetzt eine Kreissäge, aber vielleicht doch auch für dich (oder andere Zuschauer) interessant. Wenn Du Ideen zur Optimierung meiner Vorrichtung hast, höre ich das gern. :-)
Sehr schöne Idee und sehr clever umgesetzt!
@@holzhandwerk_ak Vielen Dank. Freut mich, wenn Dir die Idee gefällt! :-)
Gute Idee. Kleiner mft