You're video is well done. As a former teaching assistant at a high school tech center auto mechanics class... I think I might be right when I say you are a natural auto mechanics teacher. Seems like you did this professionally to me. If not you should. I also think you come across like a good gentleman and that is nice to see in this day and age..
Many people make videos but fail to let you properly understand what to do and how to... Thank you so much your videos are very helpful and make things easier because you explain things clearly and properly so anyone can do it without having any mechanical experience 👍
Just wanted to say I really like your vids. I've been spinning wrenches for 30+ years. Never done it as a profession but in hopes of providing better for my wife & new baby ( again 30+ years ago ) I did complete a home course. Your videos are great refreshers & I do learn new tricks from you all the time. Thank you for putting in all this time & effort to help others i.e. me. Be blessed.
Hay Jim best video ever! Thank you for pointing out the importance of the to Crip lock washers that lock the inner TIEROD to the outer rack+Pinion mounting shaft! In between the too! Alot of these kits on eBay are missing these too very important parts!!! Wake up eBay kit sellers. GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!🙅😉👍
I see by the uploads that you are still active sir, so I wanted to let you know this was very helpful. I have only found one other video that did this with a wrench, so this was nice as some reassurance. One happy Dutchman might try this next week.
Well done! Do you ever worry about twisting and damaging the outside end of the steering arm when you twist the inner tie rod off? Every pro I've ever seen does it like you do, just twist one side of the connection and it comes off. So, evidently the steering apparatus is so well made that you don't need to worry about applying too much force.
I got a question. I am changing a Prius innner and outer tie rods. 4 total from Autozone. But there is no cotter pin for any of the nuts on any of these parts. No holes in the bolts too. So I guess it doesn't need them? I've watched a few videos on how to do this and everyone is referring to the cotter pin step which these don't have. Is that odd?? Do you think I might want to use a lock washer to keep the nuts from getting loose? Maybe use some extra thread lock sealant? Also, on the inner tie rods from AutoZone one tie rod has that washer piece that goes on the inside closest to the rack and pinion. The other inner tie rod that has the same part number (and the lengths are the same) but it looks like it came from a different manufacturer even though it does have the same part number, both say Duralast on the box. I wondering if I should go back to Autozone and see if they can get me another exact matching tie rod. I think it might be important that they are exact and I need that inner locking washer piece that you installed here to keep it in place for both inner tie rods- and only one inner tie rod has that in the box. I also think those wire ties that they use instead of clamps are worrisome. How long can they hold up with all of the driving abuse? It should be a metal ring of some kind on both sides of the boot. Your thoughts sir?
Great video. Thanks. I like how you show different tools and methods. I appreciate you sharing your experience, I've learned quite a bit from you, thanks.
You make backyard mechanics like myself think I know what I'm doing. Seriously though, without your videos I would not be confident enough to do it myself.
Thanks for the great tutorial. Camera work was perfect...could see every aspect leaving nothing to guess work. I have a 2000 Montero Sport with a really pesky problem. The "check engine light" has actually burned out in my instrument panel. I'm in California and the smog rules state that no matter whether the car is free of "P" codes, if the check engine light does not light upon turning on the ignition...it's an automatic fail. I took it in for a smog test and the tech noted the failure but still continued with the test...connecting my car to the Ca state smog network. Turns out there were 3 codes: P0125 Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control. P0173 Fuel trim bank 2 P0400 EGR "A" flow I remedied all three codes by changing out the EGR and EGR solenoid valves, eliminating air trapped in the coolant system, changing out the thermistor for engine temp to the ECU, Cleaning the Mass air sensor and its electrical contacts. Replacing the PCV valve and hose. Replacing various questionable vacuum lines and port caps. I now have one obstacle....removing the dash panel to replace that damn light bulb. Any advice on how to do this would be GREATLY appreciated. johnbobrink@gmail.com or John Bobrink on facebook
Thank you so much for this perfect explanation and as always you are doing a good job the only thing I like to say if you can sir put more lights and another camera please thank you so much again
Great video, it is going to help alot of people, but do you recommend torquing the inner tie-rods to the factory specification while the inner tie rod tool is installed on the inner tie rod? I see that you tightened it down really well, but what do you think about putting a torque wrench on, while the tool is on there? And I agree with the Red Threadlock as well!
JIM!! Your great videos make it easy for me to keep up with my rent increase thank you Without your helpfull videos I would never afford to keep up with my clunker and still have a place to live ..GB you! Just a quick question tho I was told when there is that much swing in the outer tie rod as is @2.23 of this video I was told to change them out . True /False?
Thanks for making this vid Jim. I did this for my 96 civic and would like to add that much attention needs to be had when lubricating the boot that goes over the inner tie rod. When you go to get an alignment an unlubricated boot will interfere with the adjustment because the boot will twist with the inner tie rod instead of allowing the rod to slide. The mechanic at the Honda dealer broke my turn signal and now it stays on after I make a turn and go straight. 🤕 Thanks again for the vid.
Counting revolutions? What if the OEM product is shorter or longer then the one you removed? Maybe better to measure distance from tie rod bolt to a point on tie rod?
The rubber boot on my 2006 Impala is cut half way "across" on the bottom side. When I go to replace it, how do I add the grease and how much and what kind of grease should I use? Awesome video. Thank you so much.
hello sir. my tie rods didn't come with a critter accepting nut nor does the stud have a hole to accept one. My real problem is getting nut tight enough without stud sliding with nut. thanks for your time and great video
Really enjoyed your video(s) and they are a great tool to use as a guide on a project. Currently, I am replacing my inner tie rod on a 2004 Sonata but can't find the washer locking tab anywhere. Didn't come with the purchase of my inner tie rods nor can I find any at auto parts or even the Hyundai dealership. However, they are shown in my manual. Where can they be located/purchased? Thanks
jimthecarguy, I was able to replace my inner & outer tie rods and ball joints on my '06 Volvo XC90 with the help of your video. You saved me a $1000 by not taking it to a shop. Thank you again and have a merry Christmas.
Hi brother Jim, hope you and your family are all well and healthy (including your dog's) 😁. Jim if I manage to slip the bellows boot over the outer tie rod (by wrapping the outer tie rod in a sandwich bag, smeared in grease) and slipping the boot over the outer tie rod without removing the outer tie rod, would this mean I won't need to have alignment done afterwards? I saw this video which I will link below, Jim please let me know your thoughts on this method brother, Thanks Michael in England......
I've never seen that done before and I think it will be very hard to do because the boot is made of a hard plastic. If you do it that way make sure to let me know how you do.Thanks for watching.
What kind of crease do you use? Just a regular grease that you use for brake job? Also, can a hose claim be used to tighten the boot to the rod instead of a zip tie?
The clmap/band I was given for the boot isn't like that, it has two open clamps that you somehow have to close and tighten while on the car. It's extremely frustrating to do, I still haven't figured it out...
You doing a great job Jim!! Like you DIY videos. With the help of one your videos I was able to identify and fix a power steering issue on my 04honda Accord. Now I have a new prob, there is steering vibration when I apply the breaks. Soft touch and hard press on the brake pedal generates vibration on the steering wheel. When I went to a mechanic he suggested I change the rotors and pads, so got them changed but it did not fix the issue. The mechanic said my tires are worn out which is causing the issue. Got all the 4tires changed but still have the problem. Do you suggest I change the inner and outer tie rod? Or could it be some other prob. Please help me understand where the problem is and also to fix.
If the vibration only happens when you step on the brakes the problem is in the brake rotors.When they installed the rotors they should have cleaned all the rust on the hub or the problem will continue to happen.Keep me posted Jim
sir, there is a bit play in my tie rod axle. The axle connecting the inner and outer tie rods is able to make rotation about 1 inch (no noise at this time) or less, but there is no play or movement when the axle is move in and out (it seems normal). Could you kindly clearify about this play whether its going bad or just normal. Thanks.
good video. Counting the number of turns is a good idea, but it is not always correct because some times the replacement is not threaded the same depth and/or the part is not quite the same length. Better to also make a rough measurement of the position of the tie rod end. You only have to get close enough to get it to the tire shop because they will do an alignment. I have done this type of job a few times just before I go and get new tires and 1/2 the time the shop did not even have to align anything because I got it right. Hard to tell though because of old and new wear and tear, how the vehicle suspension is sitting/hanging etc.
My brother in law and I tried hammering the tie rod out. Even hitting in from the screw and nothing. Had to go out and rent a tool. It is an old car so understandable. Just a Saturday afternoon beating our tie rods.
How come you were able to move your outer tie rod end back and forth but I can't move mine back and forth like that? You said that was normal it doesn't look normal
I've just replace my outer tie rods. I'm wondering if I should also be replacing the inner? My 2007 Sentra has 330K km on it and tie rods were original. There is not much play in them, but they can be moved easily in all directions. What you think?
You're video is well done. As a former teaching assistant at a high school tech center auto mechanics class... I think I might be right when I say you are a natural auto mechanics teacher. Seems like you did this professionally to me. If not you should. I also think you come across like a good gentleman and that is nice to see in this day and age..
Many people make videos but fail to let you properly understand what to do and how to... Thank you so much your videos are very helpful and make things easier because you explain things clearly and properly so anyone can do it without having any mechanical experience 👍
Just wanted to say I really like your vids. I've been spinning wrenches for 30+ years. Never done it as a profession but in hopes of providing better for my wife & new baby ( again 30+ years ago ) I did complete a home course. Your videos are great refreshers & I do learn new tricks from you all the time. Thank you for putting in all this time & effort to help others i.e. me. Be blessed.
This is how you make a how to video guys. Everything nice and clear and no music or robot voice.
today I felt like when I was with my mechanics teacher a few years ago. you are a teacher . thanks.
Great content presented in a no nonsense and understandable format. Enjoy your tutorials Jim.
Hay Jim best video ever! Thank you for pointing out the importance of the to Crip lock washers that lock the inner TIEROD to the outer rack+Pinion mounting shaft! In between the too! Alot of these kits on eBay are missing these too very important parts!!! Wake up eBay kit sellers. GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!🙅😉👍
Thanks for not cutting the video @ 19:44 to 20:26. A Top Notch Mechanic like Yourself shows us the struggles we are up against! Great Video!!!!
I thought it was a good idea to show how difficult it can be sometimes.Thank you for watching.
YOURE ONE OF THE BEST TEACHERS IVE EVR SEEN ...THANK YOU Jim😊
Wow, thank you!
The best video I found on this job.
Congratulations!
Great video, speaks slowly,clearly, explains perfectly, no rush approach, I'm ready to do mine, lots of thanks.
Great i'm happy to help.Thank you for stopping by the shop
It’s because he is a normal human being which is not all that common these days.
I see by the uploads that you are still active sir, so I wanted to let you know this was very helpful. I have only found one other video that did this with a wrench, so this was nice as some reassurance.
One happy Dutchman might try this next week.
Glad I could help
Jim you are an absolute professional and great teacher, I hope there are some young men in your shop you are mentoring
Thank you
I'm really happy that I saw this video. I'm going to buy that special tool to put the clamp back on. Thanks!
Well done! Do you ever worry about twisting and damaging the outside end of the steering arm when you twist the inner tie rod off? Every pro I've ever seen does it like you do, just twist one side of the connection and it comes off. So, evidently the steering apparatus is so well made that you don't need to worry about applying too much force.
Well, that's the only way to get a tie rod on or off, so it's designed to withstand that.
Thank you Jim. You explained this clearly. I learned so much from your video...thank you.
Nicely done sir. You were clear and concise the whole way through and your camera work was good and in focus.
Thank you for watching . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
great video watching from nova Scotia canada
Great video, enjoyed how you take your time and explain everything.
You make it look simple Jim. Best to you and yours in the new year.
+wyattoneable Thankfully there is edition on the camera.Some times i need to remove some 4 letter words. Lol Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Getting ready to do this tomorrow. Had to wait on some warm weather. Thanks!! You are a great teacher!! :-)
Thanks for watching.
Great video, i struggled getting the old inner rod loose as i didnt have the right tool or spanner
You are a very good teacher
Outstanding teacher if yuh ask me. Great job sir
Great video. You spoke very clear and really took your time explaining all the details.
Glad it was helpful!
I got a question. I am changing a Prius innner and outer tie rods. 4 total from Autozone. But there is no cotter pin for any of the nuts on any of these parts. No holes in the bolts too. So I guess it doesn't need them? I've watched a few videos on how to do this and everyone is referring to the cotter pin step which these don't have. Is that odd?? Do you think I might want to use a lock washer to keep the nuts from getting loose? Maybe use some extra thread lock sealant? Also, on the inner tie rods from AutoZone one tie rod has that washer piece that goes on the inside closest to the rack and pinion. The other inner tie rod that has the same part number (and the lengths are the same) but it looks like it came from a different manufacturer even though it does have the same part number, both say Duralast on the box. I wondering if I should go back to Autozone and see if they can get me another exact matching tie rod. I think it might be important that they are exact and I need that inner locking washer piece that you installed here to keep it in place for both inner tie rods- and only one inner tie rod has that in the box. I also think those wire ties that they use instead of clamps are worrisome. How long can they hold up with all of the driving abuse? It should be a metal ring of some kind on both sides of the boot. Your thoughts sir?
Great video. Thanks. I like how you show different tools and methods. I appreciate you sharing your experience, I've learned quite a bit from you, thanks.
+Michael Herbert I am happy to share my 40+ years of knowledge.if you need any other advice let me know.
Great Job Jim I have learned so much from you, Your Sunday night talks are great too
Mr. Jim, you're the man!
Thanks for this. Now i know how to do it on my 95 Civic.
You make backyard mechanics like myself think I know what I'm doing. Seriously though, without your videos I would not be confident enough to do it myself.
Great video, explanation and steps! Thank you Jim!
Thank you very much, the instructions were put across nicely.
This is a great video. Thank you.
Great video just another issue i can now fix myself. Thanks jim
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
What is your thoughts on adding more grease in the boot before clamping? I put a little more around the ball and socket before putting boot on.
Best instruction!!! Go Jim go!!!🙅👍😉
Thanks for the great tutorial.
Camera work was perfect...could see every aspect leaving nothing to guess work.
I have a 2000 Montero Sport with a really pesky problem. The "check engine light" has actually burned out in my instrument panel.
I'm in California and the smog rules state that no matter whether the car is free of "P" codes, if the check engine light does not light upon turning on the ignition...it's an automatic fail.
I took it in for a smog test and the tech noted the failure but still continued with the test...connecting my car to the Ca state smog network. Turns out there were 3 codes:
P0125 Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control.
P0173 Fuel trim bank 2
P0400 EGR "A" flow
I remedied all three codes by changing out the EGR and EGR solenoid valves, eliminating air trapped in the coolant system, changing out the thermistor for engine temp to the ECU, Cleaning the Mass air sensor and its electrical contacts.
Replacing the PCV valve and hose.
Replacing various questionable vacuum lines and port caps.
I now have one obstacle....removing the dash panel to replace that damn light bulb.
Any advice on how to do this would be GREATLY appreciated.
johnbobrink@gmail.com
or John Bobrink on facebook
Thank you for watching
Thank you Jim. Excellent video and very profesional job.
I'm happy to help.
On time line 9:25 you said, this is the outer tie rod end.
You should have said, inner tie rod end.
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Nice work and thanks for posting..I have to change mine on a 2006 Toyota Camry I hope it's this easy
Glad it helped
ez to do when is up on racks like that. doing it on ground on your back with just jack stands is another story.
A very informative and educational video, well done. Merry Christmas Jim, see ya on the next one.
+joel mccoin Thank you Joel and a Merry Christmas to you also
Thanks Jim, good video.
Jim bro great tutorial 😁
Thank you so much for this perfect explanation and as always you are doing a good job the only thing I like to say if you can sir put more lights and another camera please thank you so much again
Thanks for showing how it's done.
Jim, as a new subscriber I am enjoying your videos. I like the detail you show and how you explain things.
+Jim Buford Thank you for taking the time to give me your feedback about my videos.
Great video, it is going to help alot of people, but do you recommend torquing the inner tie-rods to the factory specification while the inner tie rod tool is installed on the inner tie rod? I see that you tightened it down really well, but what do you think about putting a torque wrench on, while the tool is on there? And I agree with the Red Threadlock as well!
Thanks for this, Jim. Very clear and well described. Can you please tell me if this video would be applicable to a 2008 Hyundai Azera?
JIM!! Your great videos make it easy for me to keep up with my rent increase thank you Without your helpfull videos I would never afford to keep up with my clunker and still have a place to live ..GB you! Just a quick question tho I was told when there is that much swing in the outer tie rod as is @2.23 of this video I was told to change them out . True /False?
False. If there is up and down movement they need to be replaced but at 2:25-2:40 that is normal.Thanks for watching. I'm happy to help.
You are one Kool dude Jim i picked up some tips
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Nice job again, Jim. Merry X-Mas to you and your Family.
+wysetech2000 Thank you and Merry Christmas to you also
Thanks for making this vid Jim. I did this for my 96 civic and would like to add that much attention needs to be had when lubricating the boot that goes over the inner tie rod. When you go to get an alignment an unlubricated boot will interfere with the adjustment because the boot will twist with the inner tie rod instead of allowing the rod to slide. The mechanic at the Honda dealer broke my turn signal and now it stays on after I make a turn and go straight. 🤕 Thanks again for the vid.
Thank you for watching
Is there a list of tools that you used? Like the crimp tool?? Great video by the way!
Just subscribed good upload, happy new year 👍🇮🇪
thanks, Jim great video as always !!
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Counting revolutions? What if the OEM product is shorter or longer then the one you removed? Maybe better to measure distance from tie rod bolt to a point on tie rod?
The rubber boot on my 2006 Impala is cut half way "across" on the bottom side.
When I go to replace it, how do I add the grease and how much and what kind of grease should I use?
Awesome video. Thank you so much.
That is a very good question.I do a live stream on jimthecarguy Sunday night at 7:00 PM .I will talk about this .I hope you can stop by
Thank you for your reply.
I will be here at 7:00 pm tonight.
Okay there's a plastic green thing over that part on the inner tie rod for the special tool do I have to take that off
great video. gonna give it a shot.
I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching.
Inner and outer tie rod job without a single expletive. How DOES he do it?
hello sir. my tie rods didn't come with a critter accepting nut nor does the stud have a hole to accept one. My real problem is getting nut tight enough without stud sliding with nut.
thanks for your time and great video
Really enjoyed your video(s) and they are a great tool to use as a guide on a project. Currently, I am replacing my inner tie rod on a 2004 Sonata but can't find the washer locking tab anywhere. Didn't come with the purchase of my inner tie rods nor can I find any at auto parts or even the Hyundai dealership. However, they are shown in my manual. Where can they be located/purchased? Thanks
Thanks Jim. Another great video.
+Ed Waggoner Sr. (Papatch) Thank you .Have a Merry Christmas
Great video with nice explanation and video. Thank you!
Jeff Brungardt I appreciate you watching the video.
jimthecarguy, I was able to replace my inner & outer tie rods and ball joints on my '06 Volvo XC90 with the help of your video. You saved me a $1000 by not taking it to a shop. Thank you again and have a merry Christmas.
Thank you for watching.Merry Christmas
Great job Jim!
Wilson Buttram Appreciate you watching the video.
The tool demonstrated today is really amazing helpful but unluckily not available in general auto market.
Thanks for watching. In the big box store you can rent or borrow the tools.
What brand tie rod do you trust to replace oem? Torque wrench castle nuts to 43 lbs.. not worth it? Old small clamp would fit instead of cable tie no?
thank you. subscribed!
Hi brother Jim, hope you and your family are all well and healthy (including your dog's) 😁. Jim if I manage to slip the bellows boot over the outer tie rod (by wrapping the outer tie rod in a sandwich bag, smeared in grease) and slipping the boot over the outer tie rod without removing the outer tie rod, would this mean I won't need to have alignment done afterwards? I saw this video which I will link below, Jim please let me know your thoughts on this method brother, Thanks Michael in England......
This video brother: th-cam.com/video/SiFh7Vq7QqQ/w-d-xo.html
I've never seen that done before and I think it will be very hard to do because the boot is made of a hard plastic. If you do it that way make sure to let me know how you do.Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Perfect. I was wondering what is the wrench name ?
Any tips on removing the locking nut? It seems to be seized shut. My 99 integrs is still running bone stock tie rods.
What kind of crease do you use? Just a regular grease that you use for brake job? Also, can a hose claim be used to tighten the boot to the rod instead of a zip tie?
I have seen some other videos where they put extra grease on the tie rod, is this necessary?
"We just grab a hammer and tap it a couple of times...." * smash it * xD
Thanks for watching.
🤣
The clmap/band I was given for the boot isn't like that, it has two open clamps that you somehow have to close and tighten while on the car. It's extremely frustrating to do, I still haven't figured it out...
Great Video
When you are shaking the wheel with your hands, should you have the steering wheel locked ?
Great video.... Thank you
You doing a great job Jim!! Like you DIY videos. With the help of one your videos I was able to identify and fix a power steering issue on my 04honda Accord. Now I have a new prob, there is steering vibration when I apply the breaks. Soft touch and hard press on the brake pedal generates vibration on the steering wheel. When I went to a mechanic he suggested I change the rotors and pads, so got them changed but it did not fix the issue. The mechanic said my tires are worn out which is causing the issue. Got all the 4tires changed but still have the problem. Do you suggest I change the inner and outer tie rod? Or could it be some other prob. Please help me understand where the problem is and also to fix.
If the vibration only happens when you step on the brakes the problem is in the brake rotors.When they installed the rotors they should have cleaned all the rust on the hub or the problem will continue to happen.Keep me posted Jim
thank you☺️☺️
Great instructions, crystal clear DIY
Thanks
hey jim, i was wondering....what was the size of the open wrench you used to loosen the outer tierod end bolt instead of using a special tool for it?
sir, there is a bit play in my tie rod axle. The axle connecting the inner and outer tie rods is able to make rotation about 1 inch (no noise at this time) or less, but there is no play or movement when the axle is move in and out (it seems normal).
Could you kindly clearify about this play whether its going bad or just normal. Thanks.
great video jim thank you.
+Denkha94 Thank you for watching and your feedback
good video. Counting the number of turns is a good idea, but it is not always correct because some times the replacement is not threaded the same depth and/or the part is not quite the same length. Better to also make a rough measurement of the position of the tie rod end. You only have to get close enough to get it to the tire shop because they will do an alignment. I have done this type of job a few times just before I go and get new tires and 1/2 the time the shop did not even have to align anything because I got it right. Hard to tell though because of old and new wear and tear, how the vehicle suspension is sitting/hanging etc.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome. Subbed. One question, what size was the wrench you used on the inner tie rod? 22 mm?
Hey Jim, how do I know if I need an Inner Tie Rod WITH OR WITHOUT variable [Power] Steering? I have an 02' Bonneville. Thanks.
My brother in law and I tried hammering the tie rod out. Even hitting in from the screw and nothing. Had to go out and rent a tool. It is an old car so understandable. Just a Saturday afternoon beating our tie rods.
I have 2012 gmc Acadia Denali. Idle jumps consistently. 800 -875 or 850 -750 ish
Any clues where I can start to look for issiue
Excellent!
I just had the inner and outer tires replaced and when i pulled off the steering is off it’s making a grinding noise and im pissed 😤
How come you were able to move your outer tie rod end back and forth but I can't move mine back and forth like that? You said that was normal it doesn't look normal
Jim! Would you recommend putting anti-seize on the threads connecting the inner and outer tie rod?
Yes you could .Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted
That will also make things easier for the alignment later on.
Is there a difference between front and rear tie rods? Or is the only difference in tie rods inner and outer? Thanks so much!
Good question.They are different.Thanks for watching.
I've just replace my outer tie rods. I'm wondering if I should also be replacing the inner? My 2007 Sentra has 330K km on it and tie rods were original. There is not much play in them, but they can be moved easily in all directions. What you think?
razz P If there is movement in the tie rod you should replace it
Do you still need a wheel alignment after this?
Also when replacing struts or axles control arms is an alignment needed?
razz P good question yes after any front end work it is a good idea
He told me after replacing the inner and outer tire rods I have to get the wheel alignment to stop it from driving funny steering like it’s pulling
What size wrench did you use to remove the inner tie rod?
Very large