Thank you so much. I have been able to find reasonably well-researched (for English) resources for men's hakama but not the modern skirt style for women (which is what I want), so this was a godsend I've been waiting several years for. ❤
@@gabrielegiannino2282 Some of the better ones were stapled packets that circulated around the dojos I was going to, as an Aikidōka. But Folkwear patterns has a decent-enough pattern. Comparing it to this video and looking up details on blogs will be helpful, though, if you're going for traditional construction techniques.
@@ehsapessi2877 I went into slightly more detail above, but Folkwear Patterns 151 is an accessible starting point. You'll probably want to supplement with videos like these.
7:50 time stamp for extremely important information/measurements Thank you so much Billy!! I love this about you. You make kimono so much more accessible (both in terms of translations and attitude) for the English speaking fans out here.
The tool you use instead of the sewing iron is called a hera marker by Clover! Clover USA distributes them under this name, but Clover Japan uses パッチワークへら, of course! It's about ¥700/$7 and it's marketed towards quilters (at least, that's where I've seen it!) Clover has four different styles, the one I think is most common is similarly shaped to the one you show in the video.
Pleats are strange. I've heard from a couple of kilt makers- so they work with pleats a lot- that some fabrics, weaves, and materials, pleat better than others, but it just boils down to steaming and ironing. Some less some a lot more!
I love these tutorial and process videos! I'm slowly simmering away at a cosplay plan (Mononoke's Kusuriuri) and I want to make each part as authentic as possible. I really appreciate learning about the nitty-gritty details of construction and history, like what steps or additions are absolute requirements and what cannot be added and what steps are more forgiving as long as you get the right shape eventually. The pocket tangent was really interesting!
Hey there, so I actually started doing exactly this- made a blog documenting the research but never updated- but I'm almost done! Something id like to recommend for the pants are either Monpe or karusan-bakama. I didn't make mine- a family friend who lived on a farm in aomori gave me a pair of Monpe from the late Edo era that were in exquisite condition and incredibly perfect- not to mention the aged fading of the dye adds (imo) to the idea that Kusuriuri is hundreds of years old, and the look of monpe really sell the fact that he'd be in the Edo era's hard working, yet despised merchant class. Karusan-bakama are a little more elevated status-wise, but are great for his silhouette, without sacrificing historical accuracy! I hope this helps, and good luck with your craft! You're gonna be great!
I think what you are looking for is Duck Cloth!!!! It is awesome and thick like how the Jean cloth used to be. Sadly USA, the regular cloth out here is shitty thin.... easy to tear. So you normally always have to have 2 sewn together. Duck cloth is the best for durability, keeping the weather out, and outdoor wear! I love your videos hun! Thank you
This is it, the video about sewing a hakama ! You did a great job here in the sewing as in the filming, now I just have to find a fabric as beautiful as yours !
This was a great visual aid! I'm making hakama, but for doll clothes. I have a pattern and it tells me where the pleats should go, but I could not for the life of me figure out which way they went. Thanks for having this and having it in English!
I can't wait till you do the men's hakama. I've been trying so hard to find info on historically accurate hakama, specifically during the bakumatsu war.
If you want to have washable multi-layer markings: a wet fountain pen with a broad nib (Lamy or Pelikan B and Sailor Z nibs work well for me) and an ink that washes out (Pelikan 4001 Königsblau, Lamy Blue or Rohrer and Klingner Alt-Goldgrün are 3 that I know definitely come out). Doesn't work on dark colors, or on fabrics that can't be washed, though. Also, this uses up way more ink than writing on paper does, so it's cheapest to get bottled ink and a converter.
Hello, two years ago you published this video saying a men's version would eventually come along... Is that still on the cards? Thanks for this very interesting sew-along.
OMG ! Thank you so much for this video ! I was wondering about sewing a Hakama for my ceremonial kyudo shoots. Every year, we show to people some ceremonial shoot at my university, and for this occasion we all wear hakama and traditional kimono, and I was thinking about sewing a hakama that is not black (my usuals ones for pracising kyudo) for the next year ceremony !
Billy, you are the most helpful! I've already started to think it was only my books that contain no math and other actual clues. I've even stopped trying for good. thanks for having both good and challaging projects in this DIY series
This is the best video I've found that describes the process the best thus far. But I've searched for men hakama guides and patterns, but haven't really found anything. Do you have any links or other material to authentic traditional men hakama? :D Edit: Saw now the part where you mention that you plan on making a men's hakama video, can't wait!
This is such an amazing video! It helps me a lot. But I have some questions 1. What kimono measurement A refers to? 2. how many centimeter of sewing allowance should I use? 3. What fabric you recommend to make just one layer? If anybody have the answer, please answer. Thank you so much.
1. She commented it a few scrolls down (I had the same question too and went looking xD), but she said it's your "Ushirohaba" the width of one of the kimono back panels, which can be found in her other video: th-cam.com/video/ClK-39Cfp-k/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=715 It's basically: (Hip circumference - front panel) / 2. Front panel is: Hip Width (front width measurement) - 15cm (the Okumi). 2. SA (seam allowance) would be whatever you're comfortable with. Average is 5/8" or 1.5cm, but I typically use and seen her use 2cm or 3/4" for french seams. It's also just easier to work when hand sewing seams xD 3. From what I looked up pretty much any woven fabric that can hold pleats well will work. I'm using medium weight (5.6 oz) Linen/cotton for my cosplay ^^ It's late but hoped this helped!
Great video as always! I recently made some men’s hakama from a pattern I bought. I didn’t have very high expectations from a commercial pattern & I was right. I did it mostly just to see how it would go. The whole process was awful & absolutely not accurate. I can’t wait for some insight into the proper way to make them.
Thank you Billy! So excited for the men's hakama! I'm so inspired to sew my own. Also, is there such thing as ro hakama? For the summer? I haven't been able to find any pictures online for ro hakama for woman.
Beautiful! I think the tool you used to press in a line without heat, looks like a bone press for book making. It presses down the pages for you to sew together. I have seen them in the sewing areas. Probably late commenting, others might have already commented about it.❤❤❤❤🪡🪡🪡🧵🧵🧵🧵
The fabric is so bright and cheerful. It's enjoyable to look at your new hakama and how happy you are with this 😍 you did a really good job with the explanation and the illustrations 👍👍👍 thank you for this video and your hard work!
Very cool! How long do you make the ties? Are there one on the front and one on the back? It kinda looks waist x 2 plus length of the hakama top to bottom x 2 ? I look forward to making this. Ive made two hapi “jackets” with one in raw silk.
Great Channel. :) Could you make a video on how to measure, calculate and sew a men's hakama? As detailed as possible as the instructions for sewing a kimono. This would be really great.
I find your videos so helpful and informative! I've already read your blog on biking in kimono, but I'd love a general "traveling in kimono" video or blog. Do you wear them on planes/trains and if so, how do you do so comfortably?
Du siehst bezaubernd aus in deinem selbst geschneiderten Hakama mit dem golden schimmernden Kimono - und sehr edel. Ich liebe die alt-ehrwürdige japanische Art, sich zu kleiden. Danke für das schöne und informative Video. Es war wieder eine Freude, dir bei deinem Tun zuzuschauen und Neues dazuzulernen. Liebe Grüße von der Insel Rügen!
Thank you for your video. I see the length talks about kitake and not mitake. I guess so, the length is the height from shoulders to the ground (as male way of measuring a kimono) and not the whole height ( as female way of measurement for kimonos). Is it right ?
thank you so much! I believe you shed light into all my doubts about hakama. all your schemes were duly print screened 😄 just one last question: the hakama worn by Miko-san, are they the skirt type, or trousers type?
Replying incase anyone else is asking: It's just to find the next pleats after the first one. So for the 1/2 (back panel): after measuring 30cm in, the half way point from there to the other end would be where the second pleat is. The same with 1/3 (front panel): each 1/3 increment after 30cm would be the next pleats.
@@BillyMatsunaga Thank you so much! I was thinking it may have been referencing another video, but I wasn't sure, and apparently kept missing it even in the multiple watches of your video.
Dear Birii-san, I started watching a week ago, and I gotta say you do an amazing and through job with your teaching. Thank you very much. You have my subscription.
Thank you and it will work as you suggested :) But, is there any method for if sodetake(袖丈) of juban is much longer than kimono except of cutting and sewing it? Because something i got recently is hitoe kimono for sunmer that is kinda transparent(?) (or sees-through)....
Es gibt keine Trennung für Rock- und Hosenhakama bei Männern und Frauen. Es geht eher darum, was man mit dem Hakama macht. Hosenhakama werden meist zu traditionellem Sport getragen, Rockhakama zu formellen Anlässen.
This is random but do I need a kimono too cause in your tutorial on how to put on one you said you need a kimono but I have 5 feet or fabric and 1 feet of fabric i don't think I have enough to make a kimono and I don't have money to buy one
Thank you so much. I have been able to find reasonably well-researched (for English) resources for men's hakama but not the modern skirt style for women (which is what I want), so this was a godsend I've been waiting several years for. ❤
I know it's a long shot since this is an old comment but is there any chance you could share the resources you found on men's hakama making?
@@gabrielegiannino2282 Some of the better ones were stapled packets that circulated around the dojos I was going to, as an Aikidōka. But Folkwear patterns has a decent-enough pattern. Comparing it to this video and looking up details on blogs will be helpful, though, if you're going for traditional construction techniques.
@@habituscraeftig thank you so much!
Where did you found the men's one? I'm searching by days and still find nothing
@@ehsapessi2877 I went into slightly more detail above, but Folkwear Patterns 151 is an accessible starting point. You'll probably want to supplement with videos like these.
7:50 time stamp for extremely important information/measurements
Thank you so much Billy!! I love this about you. You make kimono so much more accessible (both in terms of translations and attitude) for the English speaking fans out here.
The tool you use instead of the sewing iron is called a hera marker by Clover! Clover USA distributes them under this name, but Clover Japan uses パッチワークへら, of course! It's about ¥700/$7 and it's marketed towards quilters (at least, that's where I've seen it!) Clover has four different styles, the one I think is most common is similarly shaped to the one you show in the video.
I think that tool you showed is called a 'bone folder' or a 'curved scoring tool'. This was a really interesting video, thanks for sharing!
That sewing iron is too cool! That second one looks like a bone folder, like what is used to crease paper.
Pleats are strange. I've heard from a couple of kilt makers- so they work with pleats a lot- that some fabrics, weaves, and materials, pleat better than others, but it just boils down to steaming and ironing. Some less some a lot more!
Oh, I can't wait to see your hakama!
I love these tutorial and process videos! I'm slowly simmering away at a cosplay plan (Mononoke's Kusuriuri) and I want to make each part as authentic as possible. I really appreciate learning about the nitty-gritty details of construction and history, like what steps or additions are absolute requirements and what cannot be added and what steps are more forgiving as long as you get the right shape eventually. The pocket tangent was really interesting!
Hey there, so I actually started doing exactly this- made a blog documenting the research but never updated- but I'm almost done! Something id like to recommend for the pants are either Monpe or karusan-bakama. I didn't make mine- a family friend who lived on a farm in aomori gave me a pair of Monpe from the late Edo era that were in exquisite condition and incredibly perfect- not to mention the aged fading of the dye adds (imo) to the idea that Kusuriuri is hundreds of years old, and the look of monpe really sell the fact that he'd be in the Edo era's hard working, yet despised merchant class. Karusan-bakama are a little more elevated status-wise, but are great for his silhouette, without sacrificing historical accuracy! I hope this helps, and good luck with your craft! You're gonna be great!
Thank you as that shows the clear difference between men's Hakam pants and the women's skirt
Thank you for showing how to fold the hakama! I can finally refold and properly store my kendo hakama until I can practice again! ♥
I can find kimono easily where I live but never hakama! Thank you so much!
I think what you are looking for is Duck Cloth!!!! It is awesome and thick like how the Jean cloth used to be. Sadly USA, the regular cloth out here is shitty thin.... easy to tear. So you normally always have to have 2 sewn together. Duck cloth is the best for durability, keeping the weather out, and outdoor wear!
I love your videos hun! Thank you
Thank you so much! 😁😁 Pls pls make the video on how to make a men’s hakama. Can’t wait 😭😭
Thank you so much for this! I need to make an Hakama for a cosplay so thanks!!
This came up just as I was wondering what gift to get my oldest for her birthday. Thank you.
Best birthday present ever!!
This is it, the video about sewing a hakama ! You did a great job here in the sewing as in the filming, now I just have to find a fabric as beautiful as yours !
Such a pretty combination with your Kimono; you're right, that Hakama fabric is gorgeous!
This was a great visual aid! I'm making hakama, but for doll clothes. I have a pattern and it tells me where the pleats should go, but I could not for the life of me figure out which way they went. Thanks for having this and having it in English!
I can't wait till you do the men's hakama. I've been trying so hard to find info on historically accurate hakama, specifically during the bakumatsu war.
If you want to have washable multi-layer markings: a wet fountain pen with a broad nib (Lamy or Pelikan B and Sailor Z nibs work well for me) and an ink that washes out (Pelikan 4001 Königsblau, Lamy Blue or Rohrer and Klingner Alt-Goldgrün are 3 that I know definitely come out). Doesn't work on dark colors, or on fabrics that can't be washed, though. Also, this uses up way more ink than writing on paper does, so it's cheapest to get bottled ink and a converter.
Hello, two years ago you published this video saying a men's version would eventually come along... Is that still on the cards? Thanks for this very interesting sew-along.
OMG ! Thank you so much for this video ! I was wondering about sewing a Hakama for my ceremonial kyudo shoots. Every year, we show to people some ceremonial shoot at my university, and for this occasion we all wear hakama and traditional kimono, and I was thinking about sewing a hakama that is not black (my usuals ones for pracising kyudo) for the next year ceremony !
Billy, you are the most helpful! I've already started to think it was only my books that contain no math and other actual clues. I've even stopped trying for good.
thanks for having both good and challaging projects in this DIY series
This is awesome! I live in Canada, so finding/ordering fitting kimono/hakama is so hard! This will help me to make one for myself that will fit!!
YASSSS!! Can't wait to see the outcome!
Thank you, Billy-sensei! This will be very helpful.
The tool is called a Hera Marker. It is used for quilting and sewing but you can also use it for scoring paper.
洋柄の袴も素敵ですね。
This is the best video I've found that describes the process the best thus far. But I've searched for men hakama guides and patterns, but haven't really found anything. Do you have any links or other material to authentic traditional men hakama? :D
Edit: Saw now the part where you mention that you plan on making a men's hakama video, can't wait!
This is such an amazing video! It helps me a lot. But I have some questions
1. What kimono measurement A refers to?
2. how many centimeter of sewing allowance should I use?
3. What fabric you recommend to make just one layer?
If anybody have the answer, please answer. Thank you so much.
1. She commented it a few scrolls down (I had the same question too and went looking xD), but she said it's your "Ushirohaba" the width of one of the kimono back panels, which can be found in her other video: th-cam.com/video/ClK-39Cfp-k/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=715
It's basically: (Hip circumference - front panel) / 2. Front panel is: Hip Width (front width measurement) - 15cm (the Okumi).
2. SA (seam allowance) would be whatever you're comfortable with. Average is 5/8" or 1.5cm, but I typically use and seen her use 2cm or 3/4" for french seams. It's also just easier to work when hand sewing seams xD
3. From what I looked up pretty much any woven fabric that can hold pleats well will work. I'm using medium weight (5.6 oz) Linen/cotton for my cosplay ^^
It's late but hoped this helped!
i love the part where you showed how the pleats and basting were done!!
oh good job Billy I didnt think anyone pulled the crossgrain anymore!
looking forward to the mens hakama!
Möge die Macht mit dir sein 😉 Perfekt ist nur was für Menschen die nichts mehr lernen wollen. Sieht super aus!
Hehe! Dankeeee!!
I use hakama when I trained Tai Jitsu for years but I would love to be able to make me a nice one for regular wear1 Thank You!
Thank you! This video is so interesting ones again! This fabric is to die for 🥰! And your hakama is awesome . I really want to see your next topic 🤩
absolutely awesome😍👏👏!! Thank you so much for this video👏👏!!
Interesting! Found this video since @AshLG referred to it in their making of adjustable split-side pants. Some things do not get old.
you are so amazing. I have been your sewing fan since day 1.
Great video as always!
I recently made some men’s hakama from a pattern I bought. I didn’t have very high expectations from a commercial pattern & I was right. I did it mostly just to see how it would go. The whole process was awful & absolutely not accurate. I can’t wait for some insight into the proper way to make them.
I adored the kimono/obi you had on in this video! The colors are luscious!
Thank you Billy! So excited for the men's hakama! I'm so inspired to sew my own.
Also, is there such thing as ro hakama? For the summer? I haven't been able to find any pictures online for ro hakama for woman.
So far I haven't come across a ro hakama so far. So I don't think they exist (but one should also never say never when it comes to kimono....)
Your garden is as lovely as you are!
Beautiful! I think the tool you used to press in a line without heat, looks like a bone press for book making. It presses down the pages for you to sew together. I have seen them in the sewing areas. Probably late commenting, others might have already commented about it.❤❤❤❤🪡🪡🪡🧵🧵🧵🧵
This is great help but i am still not sure how to sew in the ties
Thank you for a very detailed hakama sewing video! I made notes for my future hakama sewing project. 💖💕😍
The problem with this video is that I want do hakama now and I don't even have kimono
Make it and wear it with western clothing!!
You can wear It with a very simple V neck T-shirt. I do
The fabric is so bright and cheerful. It's enjoyable to look at your new hakama and how happy you are with this 😍 you did a really good job with the explanation and the illustrations 👍👍👍 thank you for this video and your hard work!
Danke, Jenni!! :)
Since you mention it's a sew-along rather than a tutorial, do you plan to make a tutorial in the future?
I have no idea to be able to make Hakama in home. I'll try it!!
I waiting for your men's hakama tutorial, but when?🤔
Very cool! How long do you make the ties? Are there one on the front and one on the back? It kinda looks waist x 2 plus length of the hakama top to bottom x 2 ?
I look forward to making this. Ive made two hapi “jackets” with one in raw silk.
Please can you make a video about how to sew a juban? I think it is much easier to do.
ooooo! Im waiting for mens hakama tutorial :D
Great Channel. :)
Could you make a video on how to measure, calculate and sew a men's hakama?
As detailed as possible as the instructions for sewing a kimono.
This would be really great.
Did you not watch the end of the video 😢
@@Ilovetheskunk She said she'll make a video in the future but I can't seem to find it in her channel 😥
I find your videos so helpful and informative! I've already read your blog on biking in kimono, but I'd love a general "traveling in kimono" video or blog. Do you wear them on planes/trains and if so, how do you do so comfortably?
Du siehst bezaubernd aus in deinem selbst geschneiderten Hakama mit dem golden schimmernden Kimono - und sehr edel. Ich liebe die alt-ehrwürdige japanische Art, sich zu kleiden.
Danke für das schöne und informative Video. Es war wieder eine Freude, dir bei deinem Tun zuzuschauen und Neues dazuzulernen.
Liebe Grüße von der Insel Rügen!
Thank you for your video.
I see the length talks about kitake and not mitake. I guess so, the length is the height from shoulders to the ground (as male way of measuring a kimono) and not the whole height ( as female way of measurement for kimonos).
Is it right ?
Please Billy🙏🙏🙏🙏 Men's hakama. I need it.
thank you so much! I believe you shed light into all my doubts about hakama. all your schemes were duly print screened 😄 just one last question: the hakama worn by Miko-san, are they the skirt type, or trousers type?
Miko have always trousers type. At least from what I know...
I am confused about the measurements. What is kimono measurement A? Kitake? Which measurement is back width?
Not me also flat linning a hakama woth flannel to make it warmer for winter wear
I am seriously exited for this video!!!! Thank you for sharing this video, Billy☆
I love the teaching you give us you are amazing thank you so much
Finally! Hehe i might remake the hakama skirt i made now that i have a better tutorial to go off of!
This is super informative thank you so much!!!!!
thank you Billy!
Hello, Thanks for the tutorial! What do 1/2 and 1/3 refer to in the measurements?
Replying incase anyone else is asking: It's just to find the next pleats after the first one. So for the 1/2 (back panel): after measuring 30cm in, the half way point from there to the other end would be where the second pleat is. The same with 1/3 (front panel): each 1/3 increment after 30cm would be the next pleats.
I'd just love to learn how to sew an ōkuchi(大口), but I know my dream may never be realized.
If I want to make a pants version where should I cut to make the legs?
Do you have any places in mind where people overseas can get there hands on fabric suitable for Yukata and Hakama?
Hey Nice to see the work !
I don't understand the measurements
Could somebody tell me what "Kimono Measurement A" is? I'm not sure what it's referencing and it doesn't seem like a standard thing like kitake.
As I said in the voice over: refer to this video for measurements: th-cam.com/video/rW-Cz9HbkqA/w-d-xo.html
It’s btw your ushirohaba, but I’m trying to keep this channel kimono beginner friendly
@@BillyMatsunaga Thank you so much! I was thinking it may have been referencing another video, but I wasn't sure, and apparently kept missing it even in the multiple watches of your video.
how do you make the pants version?
Dear Birii-san,
I started watching a week ago, and I gotta say you do an amazing and through job with your teaching. Thank you very much. You have my subscription.
Thank you! :)
Very lovely!!
I want to ask you for how to fix juban, if its sleevses are too long and bigger than kimono...
One of my first videos (super embarrassing!! 🙈🙈), but this trick will do!!
th-cam.com/video/1DoQffxs130/w-d-xo.html
Thank you and it will work as you suggested :) But, is there any method for if sodetake(袖丈) of juban is much longer than kimono except of cutting and sewing it?
Because something i got recently is hitoe kimono for sunmer that is kinda transparent(?) (or sees-through)....
Habe deinen Channel gerade entdeckt, während ich (obwohl ich schon in Japan war >.
Es gibt keine Trennung für Rock- und Hosenhakama bei Männern und Frauen. Es geht eher darum, was man mit dem Hakama macht. Hosenhakama werden meist zu traditionellem Sport getragen, Rockhakama zu formellen Anlässen.
I’m bought a hakama pattern a few months ago and I haven’t made it because I was unsure how to make it. Thank you so much!
@Abbey Pinefew etsy. they have digital downloads for hakama patterns
This is random but do I need a kimono too cause in your tutorial on how to put on one you said you need a kimono but I have 5 feet or fabric and 1 feet of fabric i don't think I have enough to make a kimono and I don't have money to buy one
hiii
im having some problems trying to understand the pleats drawing, what do the different lines mean?
So ummm... guys hakama next??? 😁
how can I convert this to a man hakama¿ :c or "pants hakama"
do hakama have crotch for the men or same like the one you do? thanks 😃
You're Awsome!! :D
Wait… was that a Yoda door mat!? :D
Geil! >W
does anyone know what the instructions mean by SA?
nvm i think it means seem allowance
Watching this as a seamstress with dyscalculia at 7:57 😭😭😭
Hera marker
Can I use this tutorial/ sew along for. Acosplah would it be disrespectful her hakama is expensive