This video covers a lot of ground but once established it's the comments from the TH-cam audience that make this video a great place for stove issue problem solving. Please remember that every home has it's own set of draught circumstances and more or less is a unique situation. For some who comment that they just make a small kindling fire and all is well are lucky that they have the right circumstances to achieve that. For too many it can be a struggle to get the right formulae for successive successful lighting. The location of your house very much can influence your fire lighting, by this I refer to a house on a hill, or houses to close to big trees, or large buildings near by causing excessive draughts, or down in a valley with no draught at all plus many more unique situations. I thank you all for your comments and wish you all happy fire lighting. For new visitors to this video I urge you to read these comments as they are very helpful indeed to all.
Thanks for the video. I tend to use a firelighter and a small bit of kindling to get it warm, I’ve learnt the hard way putting logs on when the flue is cold. Nothing worse than a smokey room!
Build a top-down fire. Place relatively large pieces of firewood on the bottom, medium pieces atop those, smaller pieces on the medium, then kindling and tinder atop it all. Light the tinder, which will burn warm and smoke free, igniting the kindling, etc. The flue will be quite warm long before the larger pieces of wood might create any amount of smoke. This is far and away the easiest method by which to light a fire from a cold fire box. It allows you to stack material, in a criss-crossed pattern, before lighting but a single match for the whole fire. You can walk away and come back after an hour or more, secure in the knowledge you will have a hot, clean-burning fire in your stove.
Thanks Jason and a good way for many. This can be a good way and I use it myself quite often, however it does have a few issues and for the new user or less experienced user there are possible problems. I will do a video on this soon, but the two main issues are as follows (1) if and only if, the fire fails to push the cold up the chimney you have a full stove of timber etc to deal with as the room fills with smoke. (2) If for any reason you open the door, this higher fire can fall forward and may spill out. I know this is being ultra carefull, but to the unexperienced (and this is the people I am targeting to help!) this may be a big problem. Many people get nervous when they first have a log burner and don't have the skills to deal with the unecspected. I'll tell you all a quick true story - I had a new neighbour living in a cottage not far from me who attempted to lite her first stove ever. She was living alone and lit the stove, it went well, in fact it went too well, I was called and rushed to help. Her stove was white hot I could not get near it. So called the fire brigade! What had happened was a cinder had found it's way into the lower air intake and blocked the mechanism from controling it. She had loaded the stove up to the top and the air intake was wide open, the rest needs no explanation. Surrounding area was heat damaged and in need of repair and redecoration. It took the fire brigade only minutes to get the stove under control by dropping powder (probably Carbon Monoxide!) into the stove denying the fire of oxygen. Maybe not Carbon Monoxide, I will stand corrected if anyone knows better. So I keep my teaching skills aimed firmly at my target audience (beginners) for safety reasons. Thanks
This is the way I always start my wood stove fire. I place two large pieces of wood on the bottom with a space between the two. In the space between the two I use kindling and a small amount of paper, usually tubes from toilet paper and paper towels. I place small wood on top. And for kindling I use broken twigs in my yard from my trees.
This works fine for me , I have an external flue and was getting smoke pushed back using conventional wood pile with fire lighter underneath . I put two under the stack and one on the top which I light it burns down and eventually catches the ones underneath pretty quickly. Flue is warmed and never had any problems from using this method
Thanks for your comment - I will shortly be producing a new video of how to Turbo charge your fire lighting, especially good for people like me who can have smoke issues.
Ohh thank you so much I was going to get rid of my stove I don't know what to say to you you don't know thank you so so so much mike I thought why is this guy showing me drawings ,im screwed, I get it now...I get it now
I have an external flue and had a smoke problem. On cold nights I use a Black & Becker electric heat gun to 'push' the cold air out of the flue. I put the gun (sitting in it's upright plastic holder) inside the firebox for 5 mins. I then remove it, build the kindling fire and get the fire going as quickly as possible. No more smoke.
I've been using a hair dryer for years, same way, same results. It doesn't get as hot as the heat gun but it moves a lot more air, helps to establish draft. I have also tried a large brush flame torch, (not a flash light torch) and found the hair dryer worked just as well without wasting acetylene.
Great tips, thank you. We have a Hearthstone woodstove that drafts from the front of the stove up over the top of the stove and out the back where the pipe is located. There is a 90° elbow and then the pipe goes up the chimney. Unlike your stove, there is no direct access to the pipe the way this woodstove is built. We’re trying to figure out the best way to get the stove and the pipe warmed so that the constant cold downdraft isn’t smoking up the house. If you have any tips, we’d be most appreciative, thank you.
Ronald Morris yes! Just crack a window, preferably the opposite side of the house or basement where the wind is blowing towards the house. You can also use a hair dryer in the stove directed towards the flue for five minutes. You can also use a space heater facing the opened door of the stove. Lighting news paper, blow torch, hair dryer and space heater also work for the fireplace. Got to get that flue warm.
Good advice from 'Theoriginal1981' and you know the problem well. Most people install a log burner and are not aware of the safest way to start the fire lighting process. I've heard a lot of comments on rooms full of smoke over the years, just a little preparation and the problem is solved.
A metal inlay in the inner stone chim will quicker warm up to increase the flow;be the chim as high and insulated till there is flow anytime from the warmer room(over rooftop
Hi Mike we have had some really big issues with our log burner up to the point where we have had almost enough. In desperation we turned to the internet and found you on TH-cam video which has really sorted the problem. Just like you we have an external flue in a very exposed location, but after following your excellent advice the issue was resolved. Thanks so much you have saved the day and our log burner. John&Hazel.
John so pleased I could help, I will be doing a new video soon with a turbo version of the two videos I have done which I have been doing for a while as it works even better. Look out for that one. Best regards Mike
Mike Craft Mike thanks for your reply. Will certainly look out for your new video and if it is as good as the previous one it will be a winner 😊👍 Cheers John
I have a large wood furnace, and have a big problem with smoke. I open a window, and light newspaper first. I sometimes get a lot of smoke coming out of the door. Even when the fire is burning well, when I slowly open the door, smoke comes out. I had an extension put on, and this helped, but again today, lots of smoke in the basement. I have a wood stove and fireplace that I use sometimes, and have no problem starting them. It is very upsetting. I wish there was a professional that could come and stay at my house for a few hours and see how difficult the situation is.
Along with the heating method you should also crack a window, preferably on the opposite side of the house or basement where the wind is blowing towards the house. This will help replenish the pressure needed to help move the air up the flue. You can also use a hair dryer in the stove directed towards the flue for five minutes. You can also use a space heater facing the opened door of the stove. Lighting news paper, blow torch, hair dryer and space heater also work for the fireplace. Got to get that flue warm and new air/pressure flowing!
Top mounted chimney exhaust fans are great for this problem! The fan also works well in the summer when it’s humid and you get the chimney smell. The only drawback for top mounted chimney fans, they are so expensive!!
I think your stove does not down draught like ours does, it can't even be in the same league, lighting anything Inc paper results in the flames and smoke coming out the door at you. I have tried the paper method and sometimes if your lucky it will sort of work however the room still skinks. Warming the flue with some form of heater is a bit of a joke and I'd rather not use it than mess about doing this every time. Why not fit an anti down draught chimney cowl? The main type I'm referring to are the ones that have sail and spin in the direction the wind is going, this creates a negative pressure in the flue essentially pulling the air out. I'm sure these methods work on yours, especially the gas burner.
after using the blow torch you say that will be the end of the problem forever? what about the next time you light a fire, would you not need to do it again with the blow torch if its cold?
...or, get a pellet stove with a forced draft and your problem is solved. Pellet fuel is cheap and pretty clean to handle unlike logs. No worries about overfiring the stove, either. I'll admit it isn't as charming as burning wood you've split yourself in a big ol' cast iron stove but it's convenient and still way cheaper than oil, gas, or especially propane heat. I swore I wouldn't pay to heat with propane ever again. If you're on a fixed income it'll positively eat your SS check all winter!
Had to play the video back myself to check this out! - I guess I was talking in general terms but the same solution applies to either flue types. Interesting point though.
Get rid of any 90 degree bends . . use an insulated flue .. ensure the ( insulated) flue exits at least 3 ft above any roof ridgeline . or basically get a decent afterburn wood stove like the Dunsley heat YORKSHIRE stove .. Check out their afterburn technology . It is on another level to the stove you are using .
Hi, First of all what type of chimney and set up do you have? What flue system is also important? Without this knowledge the most probable cause is cold air falling or a vacuum inside your home causing a back flow. Try lighting a candle near your stove and study the effect of the flame, leave the door of the stove open a little. If the flame bends away from the stove then you have a draft issue. This can also be affected by your local weather or the terrain around your property. Moving the candle to different parts of your property can tell you how the draft is moving. My other video on smoky rooms may help:- th-cam.com/video/5A9gjPKqbLU/w-d-xo.html Every property can have its own special air flow pattern, so a bit of detective work is necessary to find out what is going on is necessary. Try leaving a window far away from the stove open as well and see if the candle changes, your are looking for the candle to bend towards the stove a little. Hope this helps, please let me know what happens after testing and watching the other video. Good luck.
The video is great advice. On this issue though you might be opening the door too quick? I slightly open the door (no more than 2cm and slowly) for 5 seconds. You see the woosh occur and any smoke will go up the flue. At that point you can have the door open for quite a while and shouldn’t see any smoke.
This video covers a lot of ground but once established it's the comments from the TH-cam audience that make this video a great place for stove issue problem solving. Please remember that every home has it's own set of draught circumstances and more or less is a unique situation. For some who comment that they just make a small kindling fire and all is well are lucky that they have the right circumstances to achieve that. For too many it can be a struggle to get the right formulae for successive successful lighting. The location of your house very much can influence your fire lighting, by this I refer to a house on a hill, or houses to close to big trees, or large buildings near by causing excessive draughts, or down in a valley with no draught at all plus many more unique situations. I thank you all for your comments and wish you all happy fire lighting. For new visitors to this video I urge you to read these comments as they are very helpful indeed to all.
Thanks for the video. I tend to use a firelighter and a small bit of kindling to get it warm, I’ve learnt the hard way putting logs on when the flue is cold. Nothing worse than a smokey room!
Build a top-down fire. Place relatively large pieces of firewood on the bottom, medium pieces atop those, smaller pieces on the medium, then kindling and tinder atop it all. Light the tinder, which will burn warm and smoke free, igniting the kindling, etc. The flue will be quite warm long before the larger pieces of wood might create any amount of smoke. This is far and away the easiest method by which to light a fire from a cold fire box. It allows you to stack material, in a criss-crossed pattern, before lighting but a single match for the whole fire. You can walk away and come back after an hour or more, secure in the knowledge you will have a hot, clean-burning fire in your stove.
Thanks Jason and a good way for many. This can be a good way and I use it myself quite often, however it does have a few issues and for the new user or less experienced user there are possible problems. I will do a video on this soon, but the two main issues are as follows (1) if and only if, the fire fails to push the cold up the chimney you have a full stove of timber etc to deal with as the room fills with smoke. (2) If for any reason you open the door, this higher fire can fall forward and may spill out. I know this is being ultra carefull, but to the unexperienced (and this is the people I am targeting to help!) this may be a big problem. Many people get nervous when they first have a log burner and don't have the skills to deal with the unecspected. I'll tell you all a quick true story - I had a new neighbour living in a cottage not far from me who attempted to lite her first stove ever. She was living alone and lit the stove, it went well, in fact it went too well, I was called and rushed to help. Her stove was white hot I could not get near it. So called the fire brigade! What had happened was a cinder had found it's way into the lower air intake and blocked the mechanism from controling it. She had loaded the stove up to the top and the air intake was wide open, the rest needs no explanation. Surrounding area was heat damaged and in need of repair and redecoration. It took the fire brigade only minutes to get the stove under control by dropping powder (probably Carbon Monoxide!) into the stove denying the fire of oxygen. Maybe not Carbon Monoxide, I will stand corrected if anyone knows better. So I keep my teaching skills aimed firmly at my target audience (beginners) for safety reasons. Thanks
This is the way I always start my wood stove fire. I place two large pieces of wood on the bottom with a space between the two. In the space between the two I use kindling and a small amount of paper, usually tubes from toilet paper and paper towels. I place small wood on top. And for kindling I use broken twigs in my yard from my trees.
This works fine for me , I have an external flue and was getting smoke pushed back using conventional wood pile with fire lighter underneath .
I put two under the stack and one on the top which I light it burns down and eventually catches the ones underneath pretty quickly.
Flue is warmed and never had any problems from using this method
Thanks for the info
I've been fighting my fireplace since I installed it
Thanks for that. I will give it a go tomorrow. It's happened three times now and I was also ready to throw the stove on the rubbish heap.
Glad it was a help - happy fire lighting,
Thanks mate, had no idea what I was doing wrong. 👍🏼
Thanks for the video. very useful solution for my fireplace, I also was told by a chimney expert.
Thanks for your comment - I will shortly be producing a new video of how to Turbo charge your fire lighting, especially good for people like me who can have smoke issues.
or get a automatic baffle in top off shimney.. when not in use, close.
Thank you! Works well!
Ohh thank you so much I was going to get rid of my stove I don't know what to say to you you don't know thank you so so so much mike I thought why is this guy showing me drawings ,im screwed, I get it now...I get it now
I have an external flue and had a smoke problem. On cold nights I use a Black & Becker electric heat gun to 'push' the cold air out of the flue. I put the gun (sitting in it's upright plastic holder) inside the firebox for 5 mins. I then remove it, build the kindling fire and get the fire going as quickly as possible. No more smoke.
I've been using a hair dryer for years, same way, same results. It doesn't get as hot as the heat gun but it moves a lot more air, helps to establish draft. I have also tried a large brush flame torch, (not a flash light torch) and found the hair dryer worked just as well without wasting acetylene.
Thanks so much for your analysis. Much needed here in Our winter Tasmania. Cheers.
Great advice thank you.
Great tips, thank you. We have a Hearthstone woodstove that drafts from the front of the stove up over the top of the stove and out the back where the pipe is located. There is a 90° elbow and then the pipe goes up the chimney. Unlike your stove, there is no direct access to the pipe the way this woodstove is built. We’re trying to figure out the best way to get the stove and the pipe warmed so that the constant cold downdraft isn’t smoking up the house. If you have any tips, we’d be most appreciative, thank you.
Add this: open a nearby window before you light the paper. This corrects negative pressure. Simple and effective.
Ronald Morris yes! Just crack a window, preferably the opposite side of the house or basement where the wind is blowing towards the house. You can also use a hair dryer in the stove directed towards the flue for five minutes. You can also use a space heater facing the opened door of the stove. Lighting news paper, blow torch, hair dryer and space heater also work for the fireplace. Got to get that flue warm.
I usually place a electric heater inside for about 10 mins to get the firebox hot. My son thought of that, works pretty good!
or just put the heater in your room lol
Thanks so much
Thank you for sharing, a very useful solution.
Glad it was useful to you.
Good advice from 'Theoriginal1981' and you know the problem well. Most people install a log burner and are not aware of the safest way to start the fire lighting process. I've heard a lot of comments on rooms full of smoke over the years, just a little preparation and the problem is solved.
A metal inlay in the inner stone chim will quicker warm up to increase the flow;be the chim as high and insulated till there is flow anytime from the warmer room(over rooftop
Nice video!
Thank you, much appreciated.
Hi Mike we have had some really big issues with our log burner up to the point where we have had almost enough. In desperation we turned to the internet and found you on TH-cam video which has really sorted the problem. Just like you we have an external flue in a very exposed location, but after following your excellent advice the issue was resolved. Thanks so much you have saved the day and our log burner. John&Hazel.
John so pleased I could help, I will be doing a new video soon with a turbo version of the two videos I have done which I have been doing for a while as it works even better. Look out for that one. Best regards Mike
Mike Craft Mike thanks for your reply. Will certainly look out for your new video and if it is as good as the previous one it will be a winner 😊👍 Cheers John
I have a large wood furnace, and have a big problem with smoke. I open a window, and light newspaper first. I sometimes get a lot of smoke coming out of the door. Even when the fire is burning well, when I slowly open the door, smoke comes out. I had an extension put on, and this helped, but again today, lots of smoke in the basement. I have a wood stove and fireplace that I use sometimes, and have no problem starting them. It is very upsetting. I wish there was a professional that could come and stay at my house for a few hours and see how difficult the situation is.
Stop using newspapers. Use only dry wood. Newspapers generates alot of smoke, but with dry wood no smoke at all
Along with the heating method you should also crack a window, preferably on the opposite side of the house or basement where the wind is blowing towards the house. This will help replenish the pressure needed to help move the air up the flue. You can also use a hair dryer in the stove directed towards the flue for five minutes. You can also use a space heater facing the opened door of the stove. Lighting news paper, blow torch, hair dryer and space heater also work for the fireplace. Got to get that flue warm and new air/pressure flowing!
That is exactly what I do and have no issues with smoke
Top mounted chimney exhaust fans are great for this problem! The fan also works well in the summer when it’s humid and you get the chimney smell. The only drawback for top mounted chimney fans, they are so expensive!!
Thanks for sharing , worked wonders Ray sydney..
Very well presented
I think your stove does not down draught like ours does, it can't even be in the same league, lighting anything Inc paper results in the flames and smoke coming out the door at you. I have tried the paper method and sometimes if your lucky it will sort of work however the room still skinks.
Warming the flue with some form of heater is a bit of a joke and I'd rather not use it than mess about doing this every time.
Why not fit an anti down draught chimney cowl? The main type I'm referring to are the ones that have sail and spin in the direction the wind is going, this creates a negative pressure in the flue essentially pulling the air out.
I'm sure these methods work on yours, especially the gas burner.
What my uncle David light wood stove two logs on each side one at the front with newspaper and fire lighter
Appreciate it, I feel that with these things, you learn different things as you go along. There's a reason gas ones were invented lol
Your right - but no gas where I and many more live
@@mikecraft4506 nor me, a lot of people use bottles (uk)
@@mikecraft4506 They want each of us in our road to contribute £2,750 to bring mains to the door!
@@rob5944 no mains gas within ten miles of where I live
@@mikecraft4506 I guess your can still use bottles though?
after using the blow torch you say that will be the end of the problem forever? what about the next time you light a fire, would you not need to do it again with the blow torch if its cold?
Yes, its a format repeated each time.
@@mikecraft4506 Thanks Mike
make sure to open the damper to full open.
My wood stove has a flue is it sick ???
7:00
A hair-dryer also works.
Flues should not have 90 degrees bends on as he draws on his pad, 45 degrees needed
...or, get a pellet stove with a forced draft and your problem is solved. Pellet fuel is cheap and pretty clean to handle unlike logs. No worries about overfiring the stove, either. I'll admit it isn't as charming as burning wood you've split yourself in a big ol' cast iron stove but it's convenient and still way cheaper than oil, gas, or especially propane heat. I swore I wouldn't pay to heat with propane ever again. If you're on a fixed income it'll positively eat your SS check all winter!
It's good to see Woodprix have new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
I think you opened the door way too fast, if i do that i am sure to smoke the room
Why does your diagram show a back exit flue when you clearly have a top exit flue?
Had to play the video back myself to check this out! - I guess I was talking in general terms but the same solution applies to either flue types. Interesting point though.
Get rid of any 90 degree bends . . use an insulated flue .. ensure the ( insulated) flue exits at least 3 ft above any roof ridgeline . or basically get a decent afterburn wood stove like the Dunsley heat YORKSHIRE stove .. Check out their afterburn technology . It is on another level to the stove you are using .
Why not just light the fire to warm the air?
I'm confused by this too lol
You can't use newspaper when living in a thatched cottage
Thousands of lifetime projects with Woodglut plans.
When you open your stove...does it smoke the room ?? Mine does ...has anybody got an idea why?? I see others have no such problem....
Hi, First of all what type of chimney and set up do you have? What flue system is also important? Without this knowledge the most probable cause is cold air falling or a vacuum inside your home causing a back flow. Try lighting a candle near your stove and study the effect of the flame, leave the door of the stove open a little. If the flame bends away from the stove then you have a draft issue. This can also be affected by your local weather or the terrain around your property. Moving the candle to different parts of your property can tell you how the draft is moving. My other video on smoky rooms may help:-
th-cam.com/video/5A9gjPKqbLU/w-d-xo.html
Every property can have its own special air flow pattern, so a bit of detective work is necessary to find out what is going on is necessary. Try leaving a window far away from the stove open as well and see if the candle changes, your are looking for the candle to bend towards the stove a little. Hope this helps, please let me know what happens after testing and watching the other video. Good luck.
The video is great advice.
On this issue though you might be opening the door too quick?
I slightly open the door (no more than 2cm and slowly) for 5 seconds. You see the woosh occur and any smoke will go up the flue.
At that point you can have the door open for quite a while and shouldn’t see any smoke.
i burn mine at a bought 1200 1300 degrees and hotter
this guy is a savant
Duh, just close the door.
Doug Copson No good if your cat doesn't use them..
TOOOOOO LOOOONG