Thanks for both these videos my guy! My local Honda dealership wanted $2300 to do what you’ve done in these two videos. I’ll be taking a crack at this to try to save roughly 1.8k.
Hey! Thanks for commenting. Wishing you luck and glad you found these videos to save money during these hard times. Let me know if you have any questions during the process.
Thanks Sal for the video. I just fixed my 2016 civic that had a bad compressor. Doing it myself helped me save over $2000. And now my family and I have cold air.
Did u have the 2.0L engine and if so where did u get ur compressor all the ones I can find online have bad reviews and I don't want to end up with no ac again any response is appreciated thank you
@@johnathancooper6303 I was gonna go with them I looked them up but they had nothing but bad reviews lmk how it is plz thanks u so much for ur response
Thanks again for the help Sal. I tackled the compressor swap today, still waiting on the freon to recharge the system. Anyway, FYI for others, with a Civic SI the job is much different, meaning it is much harder. There is, what I believe to be a huge portion of the exhaust manifold that is 100% in the way from under the car that prevents you from having any chance of getting to the top two bolts on the compressor. We ended up having to take half the front end of the car off (slight exaggeration) so we could access from the top. Even then it was a royal PITA but we got it done. I've had the pressure test going for about 90 min & so far so good.
For the Si, You didn't by chance take any video of this or happen to know what all needs to come off to gain access do you? I'm looking to replace my full AC System this fall (when it's cooler to work on the car outside) and would love to know what I'm getting into..
You should only vacuum through the high side. If the system is all good the low side will also pull down on the gauge as well. Add oil/dye through the low side (poor into hose while vacuum pump is on) when under vacuum with the tap closed it will pull through the low side from the high side into the system. You should also add refrigerant into the high side first before even starting the vehicle. Close high side valve. Start vehicle then fill rest of refrigerant through low side. You don’t want to start your filling process on the low side as you run the risk of liquid refrigerant entering your compressor and hydraulic it.
Great job Sal!! Just a word of caution. When hooking up the connection to your schrader valves, don't tighten them so much. With continued use you'll begin to wear out the threads below the knobs. They just need to be tightened enough to open the valves.
@@Sals_Garage You're welcome! I also wanted to comment that you were WAY out of your comfort zone and it was visible. Great on you to try and share your project with us. This shows guts and tenacity buddy! Keep the videos coming!!
In my country they do this same process, but they always use the oil that the compressor uses according to their manuals. I don't remember the name but it also ends in “YF”. They only change the refrigerant gas, which in this case is R134A instead of R1234yf. My car is a 2018 Honda Crv, 1.5 turbo, and it works well.
First start the fill before u turn on the AC. Also depending on where the low side port is you either hold the can upside down if close to evap to put in liquid or right side you to put in gas if before the expansion/orrific tube. Flipping back and forth is going to put the wrong state of the freon in which can damage the compressor
Thank you! Finally someone answered my question: is it possible to use R134a instead of R1234yf? . Obviously, thermodynamically they are very similar or this wouldn’t work. I don’t care that R 1234yf is so much more expensive (4x more). I added the R1234yf last year in my Cadillac XT5 and again I need to recharge it this year. I didn’t realize this was a common issue with R 1234yf.
Good job. Buy a scale and install a few more ounces from a new can. Just weigh full can them subtract how many more ounces you need according to sticker on car then turn valve closed.
@@Sals_Garage I am new to this stuff and have a question. When attaching the hoses to the gauges and fittings does it matter which way? Each hose is different on each end when looking inside. One end is open the other has a little metal tab in the middle. Thank you
My wife’s AC is toast on her 2016 Civic. This is enlightening. Seems like most/all Honda Civic owners are all having the same AC issues. Leaking in two places (condenser-covered expense) and compressor (not covered and dealer wants $1,700 to replace). They won’t touch the condenser until the compressor is fixed. What can we do? Obviously there are significant issues with AC system that Honda needs to address. They likely chose to cover condenser replacement due to it costing less and stuck the expensive part (compressor), to the rest of us poor souls. I will never buy a Honda again unless they start addressing this for us.
Honda really should address the entire AC system. I even heard of some others with evaporator core leaks which is a pain to diagnosis and repair. For your case I would really try and fight with Honda to get them to fix the issue. Good luck 👍
Ended up in the same situation today. Honda replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. What did you finally end up doing? I'm curious to know
@@Tahoe0512He said he had his system evacuated and the only thing required for the conversion is the oil and the refrigerant itself. The original condenser might leak because of defects though.
Couple of things I noticed. When you close the valves on your guage set, dont crank them down so hard.. it can damage the valve seats and make them leak. as soon as it stops.. stop closing. As far as ensuring you get a full charge... you can use the subcool method to charge the system if it using a TX valve, I have a video here that explains what subcool and superheat are.. and how to use them when charging the AC. th-cam.com/video/fVaM2kAN4s8/w-d-xo.html
Hey Sal. Great video...thanks! I am wanting to do the same thing on my car, because the condenser went bad. Did the compressor you installed have PAG oil in it that assumed R1234yf? If so, have you had any issues using R134a with it?
Yo! I’m working on this swap now. Is yours holding up? Everything online says to swap the condenser and expansion valve. Seems like a lot of work but since you swapped refridgerant I’m wondering, did you do anything besides the compressor
Thanks so much for the comment! Here is the temperature pressure chart I used, but there are many found on the internet: www.acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
At about the 6:37mark in your video, you purge the air from the system. Can you explain how everything was hooked up at the time & what you were doing with your screw driver on the gauge manifold?
Hi. there is a Schrader valve in the center of the gauge faces for purging air out until refrigerant starts to blow out. Only needs a split second of air released. Good luck 👍
Regardless, could I leave the vacuum line disconnected (before adding dye or compressor oil) & open the low side in order to vent any air in the system & then close the vacuum line, add dye/compressor oil & move along? I bought the exact same vacuum set you mention & I'm not seeing what you could have been doing with your flat head screwdriver at the manifold.
@@Sals_Garage Again, thank you Sal. I assume that you removed the gold "knob" from the vacuum line on the manifold & used your screw driver to push down on the Schrader valve?
You do not need to tighten those nobs on the service fittings. Those are just pushing on the schrader vales and you can actually damage them by turning them too far. I susually just tighten them so I can feel that they bottom out and then turn back some.
Hello friend, thanks for your contribution, I am about to do the same to my 2018 Honda civic. I have a question, what do you mean by this. “Make sure the whole AC system is evacuated at a shop since you do not want to mix both refrigerants”. 1.-If I fill with the same 1234yf coolant do I have to clean the lines. 2.-Cleaning the lines, can I do it with the vacuum. I appreciate your time to respond.
@@henrylen me too! I used to wash my car almost everyday! Liquid Soap---Snow Foam---Rinse---Wax---Rinse again then hand dry the car with wheel cleaner and tire dressing.
@@Sals_Garage I bet it was, had so many components on my a/c replaced because of the oem refrigerant. Wondering if a shop would be willing to do this for me 🤔. Good to hear you found a solution though 🙏🏻
Hello Sal, nice video. How's your aftermarket and R1234a conversion? I have the same compressor for my 2019 CRV and AC died. I wanted to go the same route as you did, genuine compressor and R1234yf is very expensive. Thank you.
I have a condensor leak on my '19 Si (had a shop evacuate the system and diagnose). I plan to replace the condensor and do a recharge myself, but am interested in converting to r134 for reliability (and cost in case of future failures). Question: Does the compressor need to be replaced for me to do so? or has all the non compatible oil been removed by the shop's evacuation?
"They" say that the oil used for 1234yf is backwards compatible with 134a, but not visa-versa. I'm considering changing my Camaro back to 134. I live in Thailand and imported a 2019 ZL-1. I have the only 6th gen ZL-1 here and Chevrolet isn't here. So, I'm on my own. The problem is Thailand cars all have 134a. None of the new 2024 cars, BMW, Honda, etc, all brand new cars still use 134a here. So when I install my interchiller, I will be forced to open the line and let the gas out. I will then vacuum and then refill with 134a. I cant even get 1234yf without importing it from the US or Australia or somewhere. The problem here is I don't know how much 134a to put in.... This is where I'm lost.
hello, is it normal that in these cars the compressor is always working once we turn on the A/C? and that the compressor does not turn off and on again? Thanks
Hi, thanks for this video, i have to fix my daughters 16 civic ex sedan. Let me ask u, its been two years since u did this convention, still working? If it still working for u, i just put 134a like u did. Let me know please. Tks
Hello, I'm from Indonesia, I want to ask, we just replaced the Civic Turbo AC compressor with a new Mahle brand, then filled it with coolant, but after filling it, the engine fan immediately started spinning very fast, even though the high pressure showed 150 Psi and the low pressure 30 - 25 PSI. , is that normal for civic turbo ? Thank You😊
@@Sals_Garage The weather conditions in my city are currently around 28° Celsius, thank you for answering my question because I was confused because the pressure was not too high but the fan was spinning fast
Did you flush the lines , also did you change the expansion valve? My compressor went bad on 2016 Honda civic , 2nd time no ac in the Honda. Want to convert it to 134a, did you change expansion valve, if not was the air cold and did it last .
Hi Kay - curious to know what you end up doing? I'm having the same issue(first time) and don't really know what to do and the dealership wants to charge $1600 for it
So in this video is the old ac fluids still in the system in the start of the video or did you have the fluids preflushed before making the video? I am wanting to do this conversion to my 10th gen but the way you're explaining everything is confusing to me.
It's ok but after removing coupler from high side you should have opened both sides on manifold so what was left in gauges would have gone into the low side. Otherwise you would be venting to atmosphere and quite a few grams held in the lines which could have gone to the low side before removal of low side coupling.
@@Sals_Garage You are welcome. Charging of high side pressures are usually done by taking ambient temperature( surrounding temperature) in degrees F, adding 32 to it and converting that temperature to corresponding gas pressure for the type of refrigerant used. That will now become your discharge or high side pressure. Charging is done while running engine to 1500 rpm and charging is stopped at that time, cool air temperature is taken to ensure Thermostatic expansion valve on the cooling side is working ok, temp will be close to 0 degrees C. The real cooling is experienced while car is moving as you have ram air also passing through the condenser located in front of the radiator. On idling only the fan may run if engine is hot but the test run will confirm everything for you. Good luck and I hope the above helps, years of experience. Go over all disturbed joints using leak detection fluid ( soapy solution) but formulated to prevent corrosion on pipes and there you have it.
@@Sals_Garage Dyes, a word of caution, a lot of manufacturers don't recommend it, if you have fitted a new compressor, confirmed no leaks then why use it? Dyes are flourocent, requires a UV light to identify due presence for leaks. If it's a profession then fine but otherwise leave matters simple.Fittings need cleaning after injection or it will be confusing for you or the next person and there are sniffers that sense leakage but suitable only if you do it as a profession, vacuum is ok on gauges but there is a torr gauge measuring minute vacuum, again out of scope for DIY.
Charging refrigerant R134a it's preferable to charge as vapour instead of liquid, though blends have to be charged as liquid in order to get the correct cocktail or mix of components.
So this is possible to fully vacuum all of the oil and Freon from r1234y from the a/c components and fill new pag oil and R134a? I have a 2016 civic and this new A/c Freon just doesn’t last :(
@@Sals_Garage did you put the same amount of refrigerant 134a in your car that the car requires for 1234yf? I heard you need less because 134a is more dense?
Quick question brother! So I my ac isn’t work as well! I need to put tie dye in to my ac system. At what located do i pour it on to figure the issue out on my 2016 Honda civic Sedanv
@@Sals_Garage Thank you brother! What time dye drops do you recommend from amazon? Not really familiar with haha. I really don’t want to waste on either it being the AC compressor or Condenser. Salamat!
@@Sals_Garage that is good to hear. I just noticed that my salvage 2019 mustang that I am rebuilding had the r1234yf. It look me a minute to realize why my a/c manifold connectors were not working.
@@Sals_Garage My 2018 JL uses 1234yf and it doesn't blow COLD, even on 70s humid days. It blows cool, but it sucks in the summer since you have to basically blast it. The refrigerant is still expensive too.
Hi Sal - I ended up in the same situation today with my civic 2016. Honda dealership replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. I saw some comments stating that replacing the free on is illegal. Should I go to my local mechanic and ask them to do the same like you did(replace the condenser + change to 134a)?
@@Sals_Garage I see ok. Would you still recommend doing it? Cuz it looks like people are running into the same issues again and having to get their compressor replaced 2-3 times. How's yours running so far?
@@Sals_Garage thank you. Are you for sure blaming the refrigerant to be the culprit behind all the condenser and compressor issues? Secondly, I'm almost inclined to do all the stuff on my own. I literally have zero experience in cars. Could you tell where you ordered the parts and all that I would need and the best place to get them?
Hey bud have you had any problems after converting as far as any system failures? My system leaked but I did a system check which came out good but I want to convert
I am getting ready to do this same project for my 2016 civic, I am going to order the same compressor you did from Amazon but in the description of it it says it comes filled already the right amount of PAG oil in it, so would that already be compatible with R134a refrigerant?
This is so crazy. I had my 2007 lx civic for 11 years. I sold it and got a 2017. I assumed that I didn't have any problems on my 07 with 387,000 miles I would be good with a 17. Well was I wrong. My 17 has 54,000 miles on it and the ac is going out. It makes me wonder if that was the reason the previous owner traded it in. I still need to diagnose where the leak is coming from but how can anyone be confident in installing OEM parts if Honda isn't acknowledging anything is wrong with other parts other than the condenser. Why keep on installing Honda parts if the components are faulty? My wife's black 2017 Hyundai has the R1234YF refrigerant and it will run you out of the car on a 100 degree day.
Yea I don’t understand why Honda doesn’t acknowledge that other parts besides the condenser are problematic as well. The evaporator, compressor, condenser, and various lines can leak and it’s been attributed to the poor sealing quality with 1234yf. Hope you can get your issue fixed soon. I switched to 134-a for better reliability. So far so good. You can also use compressed air to fill up as refrigerant I heard.
@@Sals_Garage I just bought the car from Carmax March of this year. Luckily I did pay extra for their extended warranty and accordingly to Carmax all I have to pay is 50$ for repairs. I have 100,000 miles to get this ac issue figured out. I wonder if consumers are able to push lemon law on the New Car Dealerships for this issue. I know it will suck but as far as I know in Virginia if the same problem is repaired 3 time within 2 years the Dealership is responsible. Maybe it won't matter because Honda is a big enough of a corporation and this problem isn't affecting enough of the 'little man'.
@@miked8156 it’s been so hot this summer that we just wanted to fix it and not have to wait so long for Honda to do something about it if ever. I’m glad you have the extended warranty from car max. Good decision for AC at least it will pay for itself. The rest of the car has been very reliable.
1234yf sucks, my GF has a 2017 civic and we are having the same exact issue now. Of course the car is probably out of warranty now so we are looking at options as the refrigerant is expensive and not as good as 134 in performance. No wonder the used car market is insane, nobody wants to deal with all these new mandated inconveniences.
@@triptheroad If it were me I would research and buy an extended warranty. The Honda warranty has run out on my car but since I bought mine through carmax I went ahead and purchased their extended warranty. I think I paid $1700 for the warranty and in less than a year I have had $1900 worth of warranty work done through carmax.
@@Sals_Garage nice, our 17 civic AC system is not working again, honda dealer replaced the AC condenser a few years ago, it fail this past August, took the vehicle to a mechanic in September, they said it had no freon. Had them recharge the AC system, they added dye but found no leaks. Now it's not working again. Wife wants to sell it now☹️
Ended up in the same situation today. Honda replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. What did you finally end up doing? I'm curious to know
No need to tighten your couplings like that. Once it stops, that's it. Don't tighten em. That's not what holds them on the service ports. You're depressing the valves in the ports when you turn those couplings.
I’m having the same issue and want to do this !! I don’t want to use the r1234 which sounds like the source of the issue throwing money away! How is your AC holding up since this video was made ?
Hi. One question. Do you keep oil for yf1234 or do you replace it by compatible r134a oil. Pag 46 or 100 is ok ? can we merge it with factory yf1234 oil ? In case of leak what do you suggest ? Take out compressor en replace all the oil by compatible r134a oil before yf1234 to r134a conversion ? Or just keep the system as it, fix leak and fulfilled r134a with old yf1234 oil.
Map Rey I don’t have a definitive answer. I suggest replacing all the oil with compatible 134a oil. I used pag 46 as seen on my compressor change video. Good luck 👍
I went back and watched it. Was that aftermarket compressor specifically a 134 compressor cause it didn't mention anything about yf to 134. Or did you just replace the compressor cause it was bad and just charged it with 134?
@@Sals_Garage ok. I'm just trying to see exactly what a "conversion" is. To I'd think that conversion means replacing certain yf OE parts with 134 aftermarket parts. But in reality, a "conversion" is just removing all the yf and charging with 134?
What in the he'll is the reason to take a better colder refrigerant and replace it with one that is not as good.? Makes totally no sense other then the massive price difference... why not just use air duster? (R152a) which is just as cold or colder then R12 and is like 8 bucks for a 4 pack of air duster at Walmart
@@jamesduffey4442 cheaper, more reliable, cools just as good as factory. Months later no issues. Can’t say the same about 1234yf on the civic, which always leaks for me (3 times).
Honda has extended the AC warranty to 10 years on refrigerant leak. Take it to the dealer and let them do it. If you have already had it repaired, the letter I got has a method to get reimbursed.
@Joel Loeffler The a/c system in these cars are faulty from top to bottom. Next time you need it repaired, and there WILL be a next time, they'll likely tell you the compressor is gone as well and will charge you $1700...
Not only does it only cover the condenser, they will find any reason under the sun to not do it. In my case it was because despite it having a hole in the condenser they didn't believe it was my primary issue
Obviously don't want to cause cross contamination, but did you change the compressor specifically for the different refrigerant, or just to avoid cross contamination? We will be doing this on our 2017 Civic but going to just thoroughly vac down the system if the compressor is the same part number.
@@Sals_Garage I found a TSB from Honda last night that the condenser is covered for 10 years now, going to try and get it serviced, if that's not the cause then we will still have to give this a try!
@@triptheroad good idea. You will need to pay a diagnostic fee for Honda to check still. Here in the Bay Area, Honda wanted $495 to diagnose the issue. If it’s the condenser then you get refunded, but anything else then you won’t get the money back.
@@Sals_Garage luckily our local dealership here in Fredericksburg VA didn't charge the diagnostic at all, they said they've seen so many come through with the issue that they aren't even asking questions 😂
It’s been a year so far since I have done this fix and the AC is still blowing cold and more reliable than the stock refrigerant which would have leaked out by now.
@@Sals_Garage phasing out something should be done slowly over the course of decades, so that it makes it a lot easier for the market to build upon a new infrastructure for it and allow people to become adapted to it. EV technology is great and all, but I don't think we are there just yet for it to become mainstream. If I can fill up an EV as fast as I could my gas car on empty to full, and if I was guaranteed a 400+ mile range. Ontop of the battery lasting 15+ years, then I'm sold on EV, but who knows when that will ever be accomplished. I'm a fan of hydrogen, it just makes more sense. Especially from an environmental standpoint where the cost of making energy for a bunch of EV vehicles has to come from somewhere. And that somewhere is at the expense of power plants to produce all that energy for 100's millions of EVs, that will be on the road in the future. Most of out power plants in the USA run off fossil fuel. So, I don't see how EVs are going to be better for the environment, when you're going to have all of these fossil fuel power plants having to produce more energy to power EV stations and EV cars in the future.
Part 1: Replacing the faulty compressor: th-cam.com/video/t6rfv4WOlGU/w-d-xo.html
Required 1234yf adapters: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZS5NYB/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07PZS5NYB&linkCode=as2&tag=sal05cb-20&linkId=52eb3051af409f2255a92925c3c17cd5
Vacuum pump/gauge kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBLDZ89/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07LBLDZ89&linkCode=as2&tag=sal05cb-20&linkId=98727490d20cda0e0d452d07119251b6
UV dye: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJ22ZKJ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07RJ22ZKJ&linkCode=as2&tag=sal05cb-20&linkId=9e4ad9b68bc5014ae9b215c1a95ec8dc
R-134a refrigerant: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094794VF4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B094794VF4&linkCode=as2&tag=sal05cb-20&linkId=d4cc421d7a4bb91ddc7bf4d137436999
Shout out to my frugal ambitious DIY hubby! 🙌🏽😜🥶🥶
Thank you so much. Love you lots.
❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for both these videos my guy! My local Honda dealership wanted $2300 to do what you’ve done in these two videos. I’ll be taking a crack at this to try to save roughly 1.8k.
Hey! Thanks for commenting. Wishing you luck and glad you found these videos to save money during these hard times. Let me know if you have any questions during the process.
@@Sals_Garage will do. Thanks again.
@@Yore0 anytime! Good luck 👍
@@Yore0 did you end up doing it? I'm having the same issue and debating what to do.
I am happy you succeeded the first time, and you remember to purge the air in the yellow hose.
Thanks! We are very happy so far.
Thanks Sal for the video. I just fixed my 2016 civic that had a bad compressor. Doing it myself helped me save over $2000. And now my family and I have cold air.
Hearing this makes me so happy. Thanks for sharing and glad you have cold air for the summer 🙌
Did u have the 2.0L engine and if so where did u get ur compressor all the ones I can find online have bad reviews and I don't want to end up with no ac again any response is appreciated thank you
@@-tht1guy999 I bought an R&Y brand reman compressor but I did put 1234yf back in mine.
@@johnathancooper6303 I was gonna go with them I looked them up but they had nothing but bad reviews lmk how it is plz thanks u so much for ur response
Can i have your whatsapp number i have big issue i need to know i can use 1234a or no
Thanks again for the help Sal. I tackled the compressor swap today, still waiting on the freon to recharge the system. Anyway, FYI for others, with a Civic SI the job is much different, meaning it is much harder. There is, what I believe to be a huge portion of the exhaust manifold that is 100% in the way from under the car that prevents you from having any chance of getting to the top two bolts on the compressor. We ended up having to take half the front end of the car off (slight exaggeration) so we could access from the top. Even then it was a royal PITA but we got it done. I've had the pressure test going for about 90 min & so far so good.
Awesome job! Thank you for sharing your tips and experience. I didn't know the SI was so different.
For the Si, You didn't by chance take any video of this or happen to know what all needs to come off to gain access do you? I'm looking to replace my full AC System this fall (when it's cooler to work on the car outside) and would love to know what I'm getting into..
You should only vacuum through the high side. If the system is all good the low side will also pull down on the gauge as well. Add oil/dye through the low side (poor into hose while vacuum pump is on) when under vacuum with the tap closed it will pull through the low side from the high side into the system.
You should also add refrigerant into the high side first before even starting the vehicle. Close high side valve. Start vehicle then fill rest of refrigerant through low side. You don’t want to start your filling process on the low side as you run the risk of liquid refrigerant entering your compressor and hydraulic it.
Good tips! Thanks 👍
@ryantaylor4116 Thanks so much for your tip about adding refrigerant to the high side first. I couldn't get my system to charge till I did that!
Thanks for this!
@ryantaylor4116 Any authorities, if you don't have a particular tool
Our commute home is more comfortable now 🙏🏽
So grateful for your help on this project wifey.
Great job Sal!! Just a word of caution. When hooking up the connection to your schrader valves, don't tighten them so much. With continued use you'll begin to wear out the threads below the knobs. They just need to be tightened enough to open the valves.
Thanks so much for the comment and advice 🙏
@@Sals_Garage You're welcome! I also wanted to comment that you were WAY out of your comfort zone and it was visible. Great on you to try and share your project with us. This shows guts and tenacity buddy! Keep the videos coming!!
Thanks for noticing. Glad me and the wife were able to fix our AC just in time for summer. Almost a year later and its still running strong
Nice job bro. My compressor just went. I'm fixing it this weekend. Thank you for explaining the process.
@@joserivera1054 any time. Happy to help good luck 👍
In my country they do this same process, but they always use the oil that the compressor uses according to their manuals. I don't remember the name but it also ends in “YF”. They only change the refrigerant gas, which in this case is R134A instead of R1234yf. My car is a 2018 Honda Crv, 1.5 turbo, and it works well.
Thanks for sharing!
First start the fill before u turn on the AC. Also depending on where the low side port is you either hold the can upside down if close to evap to put in liquid or right side you to put in gas if before the expansion/orrific tube. Flipping back and forth is going to put the wrong state of the freon in which can damage the compressor
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you! Finally someone answered my question: is it possible to use R134a instead of R1234yf? . Obviously, thermodynamically they are very similar or this wouldn’t work. I don’t care that R 1234yf is so much more expensive (4x more). I added the R1234yf last year in my Cadillac XT5 and again I need to recharge it this year. I didn’t realize this was a common issue with R 1234yf.
Yea they tend to be prone to leaking issues more than R134a
Did you convert it to R134a? Do I need to change anythiny before converting or only evacuate the system from R1234yf?
@@RH-kh8gs yes, check out part 1 video
th-cam.com/video/t6rfv4WOlGU/w-d-xo.html
Good job. Buy a scale and install a few more ounces from a new can. Just weigh full can them subtract how many more ounces you need according to sticker on car then turn valve closed.
Yea, I just did that off camera. Thanks for the comment and advice.
@@Sals_Garage I am new to this stuff and have a question. When attaching the hoses to the gauges and fittings does it matter which way? Each hose is different on each end when looking inside. One end is open the other has a little metal tab in the middle. Thank you
I believe the one with the metal tab in the middle goes to the gauges. That’s what I did.
@@Sals_Garage thanks Sal
Anytime. Good luck 👍
Can verify this works on a k20c2 Honda civic 2016. Put dye in to see where the leak is . Helps pinpointing where the problem is FS .
Thanks for sharing!
My wife’s AC is toast on her 2016 Civic. This is enlightening. Seems like most/all Honda Civic owners are all having the same AC issues. Leaking in two places (condenser-covered expense) and compressor (not covered and dealer wants $1,700 to replace). They won’t touch the condenser until the compressor is fixed. What can we do? Obviously there are significant issues with AC system that Honda needs to address. They likely chose to cover condenser replacement due to it costing less and stuck the expensive part (compressor), to the rest of us poor souls. I will never buy a Honda again unless they start addressing this for us.
Honda really should address the entire AC system. I even heard of some others with evaporator core leaks which is a pain to diagnosis and repair. For your case I would really try and fight with Honda to get them to fix the issue. Good luck 👍
Ended up in the same situation today. Honda replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. What did you finally end up doing? I'm curious to know
How was the conversion of the refrigerant so far going? Would be nice for us to know. Thanks.
Still blowing cold 2 years later. Best decision I made for our Civic.
Do you have to replace ac condenser to do conversion to 134a or you need to replace it because of leak? I wonder if original one can be used as well.
@@Tahoe0512He said he had his system evacuated and the only thing required for the conversion is the oil and the refrigerant itself. The original condenser might leak because of defects though.
Couple of things I noticed. When you close the valves on your guage set, dont crank them down so hard.. it can damage the valve seats and make them leak. as soon as it stops.. stop closing. As far as ensuring you get a full charge... you can use the subcool method to charge the system if it using a TX valve, I have a video here that explains what subcool and superheat are.. and how to use them when charging the AC.
th-cam.com/video/fVaM2kAN4s8/w-d-xo.html
Awesome tips! Thanks for the feedback 👍
Do not usesubcool or superheat on mvac. The idle changes too much to be accurate. Weigh in the charge.
I noticed that you purged air from the Yellow suction line but not from the blue line going to the car?? Any reason why you did not do this?
The blue line was already under vacuum for a few hours and that line was closed when the yellow line was disconnected.
How is the AC working so far since you swapped to r134a? Any updates?
3 years later and still blowing cold. Much more reliable than I ever experienced with OEM headaches.
@@Sals_Garage I’m at the shop right now to evac my system. I will be doing the same thing with filling with r134a.
@@d0mochi good luck 👍
Great videos, Sal. Thanks! Do you mind providing a link to the information where you determined the correct PSI readings for a given ambient temp?
Thanks! I found it on a Civic forum a long time ago so difficult to find the information now. Good luck 👍
Hey Sal. Great video...thanks! I am wanting to do the same thing on my car, because the condenser went bad. Did the compressor you installed have PAG oil in it that assumed R1234yf? If so, have you had any issues using R134a with it?
It had oil in it already so I drained it out and used oil compatible with R134a.
Yo! I’m working on this swap now. Is yours holding up? Everything online says to swap the condenser and expansion valve. Seems like a lot of work but since you swapped refridgerant I’m wondering, did you do anything besides the compressor
Yes, 3 years later and still blowing cold. I only replaced the compressor since it was leaking again.
Nice, didn't know you can converted back to R1234a.
I wanted to do it because it has been more reliable. No issues so far.
You didnt replace the ac condensor? Any problems to date with the switch back to R1234a?@@Sals_Garage
@@andyyepez7893 dealership replaced the condenser before. This is my third compressor and so far it’s been reliable ever since switching to R134a
Awesome!!! Thanks for the response and these great videos!!!!
Anytime! Thanks for the comment!
Great video.....where did you get the PSI Chart for the Low and High side pressures?.....very detailed....A+
Thanks so much for the comment! Here is the temperature pressure chart I used, but there are many found on the internet: www.acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
Hi thanks you for the video , other than compressor what others think we need to buy ?
I have all the things you need to buy in the description in this video and in my compressor replacement video
At about the 6:37mark in your video, you purge the air from the system. Can you explain how everything was hooked up at the time & what you were doing with your screw driver on the gauge manifold?
Hi. there is a Schrader valve in the center of the gauge faces for purging air out until refrigerant starts to blow out. Only needs a split second of air released. Good luck 👍
Regardless, could I leave the vacuum line disconnected (before adding dye or compressor oil) & open the low side in order to vent any air in the system & then close the vacuum line, add dye/compressor oil & move along? I bought the exact same vacuum set you mention & I'm not seeing what you could have been doing with your flat head screwdriver at the manifold.
@@Sals_Garage Thanks, I'll take another look at it.
When you release the cap you will see a little pin. I pushed that with the screw driver and air was released.
@@Sals_Garage Again, thank you Sal. I assume that you removed the gold "knob" from the vacuum line on the manifold & used your screw driver to push down on the Schrader valve?
You do not need to tighten those nobs on the service fittings. Those are just pushing on the schrader vales and you can actually damage them by turning them too far. I susually just tighten them so I can feel that they bottom out and then turn back some.
Thank you for the tip!
Yes that would be true if the valve remains close to the purging...Thanks for the reply
Anytime. Thank you for the comment!
You just need to change the ac compressor? And not the other ac components? Like the expansion valve etc?
I changed the desiccant filter but not the expansion valve which is hard to access.
Hello friend, thanks for your contribution, I am about to do the same to my 2018 Honda civic. I have a question, what do you mean by this. “Make sure the whole AC system is evacuated at a shop since you do not want to mix both refrigerants”.
1.-If I fill with the same 1234yf coolant do I have to clean the lines.
2.-Cleaning the lines, can I do it with the vacuum.
I appreciate your time to respond.
Ideally you don’t want to mix the two, have a shop discharge the old Freon then you can vacuum the rest out with a vacuum pump.
Wow Sal you are super handy! 🤙👍👍👍
Thanks Henry! I like to fix things but I dislike detailing. I’ll need your help for that 😂
@@Sals_Garage haha I do like washing cars
@@henrylen me too! I used to wash my car almost everyday!
Liquid Soap---Snow Foam---Rinse---Wax---Rinse again then hand dry the car with wheel cleaner and tire dressing.
@@henrylen glad I met someone that does 😆
@@CarlsGarage1 Nice work Carl. That sounds like a long process to me. I get bored quick when washing my car lol.
Thank you for the video! Would I need to replace the compressor to do a conversion?
Just the oil.
My concern was that Honda uses POE oil, instead of PAG oil. I don’t want to mess something up by mixing the 2 oils in the compressor / system.
@@Josh-yf9dw you’ll need to vacuum out all the old oil and refrigerant to start fresh without mixing.
How has this held up years later did anything go wrong? Experiencing the same issues on my 17 SI
@@mayasergio13 no issues 3 years later. More reliable than original setup
@@Sals_Garage I bet it was, had so many components on my a/c replaced because of the oem refrigerant. Wondering if a shop would be willing to do this for me 🤔. Good to hear you found a solution though 🙏🏻
@@mayasergio13 good luck! You got this
great video. Can you post a link for where you got the compressor oil so we can get the name and where we can purchase?
Here you go: amzn.to/3UqnVcU
Muy buen video, gracias por informarnos , saludos desde mexicali mexico
You’re welcome!
Thanks for trying this experiment. Glad it is working out for you.
Thanks man! Very satisfied so far with the results.
I need repalce AC compressor or i keep the same compressor? 2017 Civic LX
Replacement is recommended
@@Sals_Garage thanks.
@@danielcruzcordova3177 anytime 👍
Hello Sal, nice video. How's your aftermarket and R1234a conversion? I have the same compressor for my 2019 CRV and AC died. I wanted to go the same route as you did, genuine compressor and R1234yf is very expensive. Thank you.
Thanks three years later, and it is still blowing cold. Very happy with it considering the cost.
I have a condensor leak on my '19 Si (had a shop evacuate the system and diagnose). I plan to replace the condensor and do a recharge myself, but am interested in converting to r134 for reliability (and cost in case of future failures). Question: Does the compressor need to be replaced for me to do so? or has all the non compatible oil been removed by the shop's evacuation?
Compressor can be used but change the oil to pag46 for compatibility
Does this get rid of that annoying hissing sound? My civic has no leak, but it makes a hissing sound. I have a 2017 Civic ex-t.
Yes, worked for me as well.
Did you use a different type of compressor oil or is it the same type that works for both refrigerants
I used Pag 46 compressor oil. The OEM honda compressor oil for 1234yf is only available from honda dealership.
Just wondering if there as been any system failures after you did this conversion?
@@Anonymous_Sol none since this video. Before that on stock system I had two failures (condenser and 2 compressors)
"They" say that the oil used for 1234yf is backwards compatible with 134a, but not visa-versa. I'm considering changing my Camaro back to 134. I live in Thailand and imported a 2019 ZL-1. I have the only 6th gen ZL-1 here and Chevrolet isn't here. So, I'm on my own. The problem is Thailand cars all have 134a. None of the new 2024 cars, BMW, Honda, etc, all brand new cars still use 134a here. So when I install my interchiller, I will be forced to open the line and let the gas out. I will then vacuum and then refill with 134a. I cant even get 1234yf without importing it from the US or Australia or somewhere. The problem here is I don't know how much 134a to put in.... This is where I'm lost.
I hope you figure it out soon. Good luck 👍
Hola, soy de mexicali baja california mexico, se carga de entre 35 a 45 psig lado de baja presion. Saludos
Hello,
Wich desiccant filter does it need? where can i buy it, and how many iol it need and how many refrigerant ? i have same car with same problem.
1 filter, amzn.to/3Qeaiwp
2 cans of refrigerant: amzn.to/4b4uDvY
hello, is it normal that in these cars the compressor is always working once we turn on the A/C?
and that the compressor does not turn off and on again?
Thanks
Yes 👍
Hi, thanks for this video, i have to fix my daughters 16 civic ex sedan. Let me ask u, its been two years since u did this convention, still working? If it still working for u, i just put 134a like u did. Let me know please. Tks
Still works great to this day, more reliable than the stock setup. Good luck 👍
Hello, I'm from Indonesia, I want to ask, we just replaced the Civic Turbo AC compressor with a new Mahle brand, then filled it with coolant, but after filling it, the engine fan immediately started spinning very fast, even though the high pressure showed 150 Psi and the low pressure 30 - 25 PSI. , is that normal for civic turbo ? Thank You😊
Yes that is normal, depending on the temperature that day.
@@Sals_Garage The weather conditions in my city are currently around 28° Celsius, thank you for answering my question because I was confused because the pressure was not too high but the fan was spinning fast
@@allessandroihsaniranoto7907 you should be fine. It’s different since we are retrofitting different refrigerant.
So if we want to use the old refrigerant, we need to change it to the old AC motor, right?
No just change the compressor oil. 👍
@@Sals_Garage oh . . . just oil. . .
Hi sir ,how long since u did your conversion
@@MrRohanstar 3 years still blowing cold 💪
Did you flush the lines , also did you change the expansion valve? My compressor went bad on 2016 Honda civic , 2nd time no ac in the Honda. Want to convert it to 134a, did you change expansion valve, if not was the air cold and did it last .
I didn’t change the expansion valve three years later it still blowing cold
Hi Kay - curious to know what you end up doing? I'm having the same issue(first time) and don't really know what to do and the dealership wants to charge $1600 for it
@@vamshikalva1594 just follow the two videos and buy the items linked in the description. Good luck 👍
So in this video is the old ac fluids still in the system in the start of the video or did you have the fluids preflushed before making the video? I am wanting to do this conversion to my 10th gen but the way you're explaining everything is confusing to me.
In part 1 the Freon was evacuated at a shop.
It's ok but after removing coupler from high side you should have opened both sides on manifold so what was left in gauges would have gone into the low side. Otherwise you would be venting to atmosphere and quite a few grams held in the lines which could have gone to the low side before removal of low side coupling.
Thanks for the tip 🙏
@@Sals_Garage You are welcome. Charging of high side pressures are usually done by taking ambient temperature( surrounding temperature) in degrees F, adding 32 to it and converting that temperature to corresponding gas pressure for the type of refrigerant used. That will now become your discharge or high side pressure. Charging is done while running engine to 1500 rpm and charging is stopped at that time, cool air temperature is taken to ensure Thermostatic expansion valve on the cooling side is working ok, temp will be close to 0 degrees C. The real cooling is experienced while car is moving as you have ram air also passing through the condenser located in front of the radiator. On idling only the fan may run if engine is hot but the test run will confirm everything for you. Good luck and I hope the above helps, years of experience. Go over all disturbed joints using leak detection fluid ( soapy solution) but formulated to prevent corrosion on pipes and there you have it.
@@Sals_Garage Dyes, a word of caution, a lot of manufacturers don't recommend it, if you have fitted a new compressor, confirmed no leaks then why use it? Dyes are flourocent, requires a UV light to identify due presence for leaks. If it's a profession then fine but otherwise leave matters simple.Fittings need cleaning after injection or it will be confusing for you or the next person and there are sniffers that sense leakage but suitable only if you do it as a profession, vacuum is ok on gauges but there is a torr gauge measuring minute vacuum, again out of scope for DIY.
Charging refrigerant R134a it's preferable to charge as vapour instead of liquid, though blends have to be charged as liquid in order to get the correct cocktail or mix of components.
@@pankajmakwana2300 Good tips for the avg DIYer. Thanks!
Is it still blowing cold after 3 years ?
@@MrRohanstar yes, best modification I have done for the Civic by far.
@Sals_Garage so u replaced 1234yf vacuumed and added 134a
@@MrRohanstar yes
UPDATES on the A/C system still blowing cold?
Yes still the same 1 year later. Can’t say the stock AC system was as reliable.
So this is possible to fully vacuum all of the oil and Freon from r1234y from the a/c components and fill new pag oil and R134a? I have a 2016 civic and this new A/c Freon just doesn’t last :(
That new Freon is expensive!!
@@ariesr4883 so far it has been going well. I recommend it but do at your own risk.
@@ariesr4883 yes, $500 for recharge of Freon is expensive!
Did you have to change the txv valve as well?
We did not. Still going strong over a yea later 💪
If all your refrigerant leaked out already do u still need it to be evacuate . If yes, what is a good price a shop will charge to do it for u.
It still needs to be evacuated since there is a lot of pressure still in there. I paid a friend $30 for evacuating the lines.
Hey man, aside from getting the yf ac evacuated and yj adapters. Is there anything else i need to do for this conversation to r-314?
Just change out the desiccant dryer filter and use the proper compressor oil for 134 (pag46)
@@Sals_Garage would that be considered the same oil you used to put into the compressor?
Is the compressor you bought made for 134 or 1234? Have you heard of any one successfully doing this to a Honda pilot?
It’s compatible with both. Haven’t heard that yet, hope it works for you. Good luck 👍
@@Sals_Garage did you put the same amount of refrigerant 134a in your car that the car requires for 1234yf? I heard you need less because 134a is more dense?
@@garnetvertican8179 we put a little less to be safe, used the recommended ambient temp chart in the video.
Quick question brother! So I my ac isn’t work as well! I need to put tie dye in to my ac system. At what located do i pour it on to figure the issue out on my 2016 Honda civic Sedanv
Hi! Put some drops in through the low pressure port when you recharge the Freon 👍
@@Sals_Garage Thank you brother! What time dye drops do you recommend from amazon? Not really familiar with haha. I really don’t want to waste on either it being the AC compressor or Condenser. Salamat!
Anytime! I used this dye drop: amzn.to/3giByr4
Also bought these: amzn.to/3om46V3
@@Sals_Garage Definitely will check it out. Thank you once again 💪🏽
@@ALASBEATZ you’re welcome! Good luck 👍
Sal, how is it going with the new refrigerant? Im considering doing the same thing to my 2016 EX
Still blowing cold and very reliable
Is the compressor oil for r1344yf compatible with r134a?
No, you’ll need compatible oil
Did this fix work long term? I am thinking of doing the switch myself.
Yes still going strong almost 3 years now. Very happy with reliability vs stock.
@@Sals_Garage that is good to hear. I just noticed that my salvage 2019 mustang that I am rebuilding had the r1234yf. It look me a minute to realize why my a/c manifold connectors were not working.
@@sonofahyderite6855 It’s not only more reliable but cheaper to buy as well (r134a) good luck 👍
r134a and r1234yf ac compressor is same？
Yes, the oil is different though
Great video.
Thank you so much!
Great video, how are things holding up?
Thanks, 3 months later and still blowing cold! So grateful during this hot summer.
why did you use r-134a instead of the recommended r-1234yf?
10x cheaper and more reliable than the newer refrigerant. 1234yf always leaks for some reason.
@@Sals_Garage My 2018 JL uses 1234yf and it doesn't blow COLD, even on 70s humid days. It blows cool, but it sucks in the summer since you have to basically blast it. The refrigerant is still expensive too.
@@DriftHyena yea Honda’s new refrigerant is so expensive and unreliable
Hi Sal - I ended up in the same situation today with my civic 2016. Honda dealership replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. I saw some comments stating that replacing the free on is illegal. Should I go to my local mechanic and ask them to do the same like you did(replace the condenser + change to 134a)?
Sorry to hear. Most shops won’t do the conversion because legality concerns so you’ll have to do it yourself.
@@Sals_Garage I see ok. Would you still recommend doing it? Cuz it looks like people are running into the same issues again and having to get their compressor replaced 2-3 times. How's yours running so far?
@@vamshikalva1594 I recommended doing it because it is more reliable. 3 years later and AC still blows cold without leaks.
@@Sals_Garage thank you. Are you for sure blaming the refrigerant to be the culprit behind all the condenser and compressor issues? Secondly, I'm almost inclined to do all the stuff on my own. I literally have zero experience in cars. Could you tell where you ordered the parts and all that I would need and the best place to get them?
Yes I’m sure. Parts needed are in the description.
Will this work with 2.0?
Yes 👍
@@Sals_Garage thank you!! I will try it, i just bought a new AC compressor and want to do the conversion
@@AlanL28 awesome! Good luck!
Did it stay working with the r134? Any issues long term?
Still going strong over a year later. Very happy with the results.
Awesome!
How’s it holding up ?
Still blowing cold, much more reliable than stock.
Hey bud have you had any problems after converting as far as any system failures? My system leaked but I did a system check which came out good but I want to convert
No issues after three years still blowing cold.
Did you do this before taking off the old compressor or installed new one
After installing a new one. System was empty.
@@Sals_Garage thank you.
@@money58610 anytime good luck 👍
I am getting ready to do this same project for my 2016 civic, I am going to order the same compressor you did from Amazon but in the description of it it says it comes filled already the right amount of PAG oil in it, so would that already be compatible with R134a refrigerant?
Nice. Just to be safe I drained out the old oil and added the right amount for peace of mind. Good luck 👍
Hi Ride on - were you able to fix it on your own? I'm having the same issue and literally have zero knowledge to start with
At low side how much PSI you put
Depends on the ambient temperatures. I put 35 psi on the low side at 65 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temp.
@@Sals_Garage Thnx bro!
@@farhansami926 anytime! Good luck 👍
This is so crazy. I had my 2007 lx civic for 11 years. I sold it and got a 2017. I assumed that I didn't have any problems on my 07 with 387,000 miles I would be good with a 17. Well was I wrong. My 17 has 54,000 miles on it and the ac is going out. It makes me wonder if that was the reason the previous owner traded it in. I still need to diagnose where the leak is coming from but how can anyone be confident in installing OEM parts if Honda isn't acknowledging anything is wrong with other parts other than the condenser. Why keep on installing Honda parts if the components are faulty? My wife's black 2017 Hyundai has the R1234YF refrigerant and it will run you out of the car on a 100 degree day.
Yea I don’t understand why Honda doesn’t acknowledge that other parts besides the condenser are problematic as well. The evaporator, compressor, condenser, and various lines can leak and it’s been attributed to the poor sealing quality with 1234yf. Hope you can get your issue fixed soon. I switched to 134-a for better reliability. So far so good. You can also use compressed air to fill up as refrigerant I heard.
@@Sals_Garage I just bought the car from Carmax March of this year. Luckily I did pay extra for their extended warranty and accordingly to Carmax all I have to pay is 50$ for repairs. I have 100,000 miles to get this ac issue figured out.
I wonder if consumers are able to push lemon law on the New Car Dealerships for this issue. I know it will suck but as far as I know in Virginia if the same problem is repaired 3 time within 2 years the Dealership is responsible. Maybe it won't matter because Honda is a big enough of a corporation and this problem isn't affecting enough of the 'little man'.
@@miked8156 it’s been so hot this summer that we just wanted to fix it and not have to wait so long for Honda to do something about it if ever.
I’m glad you have the extended warranty from car max. Good decision for AC at least it will pay for itself. The rest of the car has been very reliable.
1234yf sucks, my GF has a 2017 civic and we are having the same exact issue now. Of course the car is probably out of warranty now so we are looking at options as the refrigerant is expensive and not as good as 134 in performance. No wonder the used car market is insane, nobody wants to deal with all these new mandated inconveniences.
@@triptheroad If it were me I would research and buy an extended warranty. The Honda warranty has run out on my car but since I bought mine through carmax I went ahead and purchased their extended warranty. I think I paid $1700 for the warranty and in less than a year I have had $1900 worth of warranty work done through carmax.
Great video!! How did the R134A hold up?
Still going strong 💪
@@Sals_Garage nice, our 17 civic AC system is not working again, honda dealer replaced the AC condenser a few years ago, it fail this past August, took the vehicle to a mechanic in September, they said it had no freon. Had them recharge the AC system, they added dye but found no leaks. Now it's not working again. Wife wants to sell it now☹️
@@12345nope12345 try refilling with 134a for better reliability
@@Sals_Garage gonna try that
@@12345nope12345 good luck 👍
any updates?
Still blowing cold 1 year later. Very satisfied
@@Sals_Garage my civic is rebuilt title so it isn't covered on any warranty, this may be my best bet.
@@ohsnapzitzmeng yea go for it! Nothing to lose really.
Tint will help too
@@blu101-o3t yes we have 35 percent ceramic tint.
@@Sals_Garage go for 15
@@blu101-o3t ok 👍
@@Sals_Garage Any?
Alternatives if you don't have that particular tool
@@blu101-o3t what tool?
Any problems yet ?
None yet 👍
Interesting I’m having this exact same problem
Hope you can get your issue fixed soon.
Our 2017 civic is also having cooling issues. Seems to be a common problem.
Ended up in the same situation today. Honda replaced the condenser for free but quoted me $1700 for the compressor and the local mechanic $800. Looks like there still isn't any guarantee that it would get fixed. What did you finally end up doing? I'm curious to know
No need to tighten your couplings like that. Once it stops, that's it. Don't tighten em. That's not what holds them on the service ports. You're depressing the valves in the ports when you turn those couplings.
Thanks for the tip!
Eric the car guy says you turn until you see the needle move. Schrader valves can get damaged on some cars if you turn all the way down.
@@69ztang Thanks man.
A- lighten up on turning your valves.
B- you can use a scale to measure how much you are putting in.
Thanks for the tip. As a beginner I appreciate it.
I’m having the same issue and want to do this !! I don’t want to use the r1234 which sounds like the source of the issue throwing money away! How is your AC holding up since this video was made ?
3 years later still blowing cold and more reliable than ever.
Hi. One question. Do you keep oil for yf1234 or do you replace it by compatible r134a oil. Pag 46 or 100 is ok ? can we merge it with factory yf1234 oil ? In case of leak what do you suggest ? Take out compressor en replace all the oil by compatible r134a oil before yf1234 to r134a conversion ? Or just keep the system as it, fix leak and fulfilled r134a with old yf1234 oil.
Map Rey I don’t have a definitive answer. I suggest replacing all the oil with compatible 134a oil. I used pag 46 as seen on my compressor change video. Good luck 👍
Cool video but I think the music was a little much
Thanks, it helps offset my boring voice. 👍
So where in this video did you do the conversion? There wasn't any info about converting from yf to 134
This was part two. Part one was changing the compressor and the oil
I went back and watched it. Was that aftermarket compressor specifically a 134 compressor cause it didn't mention anything about yf to 134. Or did you just replace the compressor cause it was bad and just charged it with 134?
@@jarredallen2016 I replaced the original broken compressor with a new one and converted the refrigerant. No issues so far.
@@Sals_Garage ok. I'm just trying to see exactly what a "conversion" is. To I'd think that conversion means replacing certain yf OE parts with 134 aftermarket parts. But in reality, a "conversion" is just removing all the yf and charging with 134?
@@jarredallen2016 correct 👍
AC working right on time ❄️🥵
I know right! It is HOT today.
Hell yeah dude! I loved it
Any update on the AC system? I might be doing that
Very satisfied so far. 3 months without issue, blowing ice cold in the hot Cali weather. Good luck 👍
What in the he'll is the reason to take a better colder refrigerant and replace it with one that is not as good.? Makes totally no sense other then the massive price difference... why not just use air duster? (R152a) which is just as cold or colder then R12 and is like 8 bucks for a 4 pack of air duster at Walmart
@@jamesduffey4442 cheaper, more reliable, cools just as good as factory. Months later no issues. Can’t say the same about 1234yf on the civic, which always leaks for me (3 times).
Thanks
Anytime!
How did this hold up? Is it still working today?
Still blowing cold, more reliable than the new refrigerant Honda uses.
Honda has extended the AC warranty to 10 years on refrigerant leak. Take it to the dealer and let them do it. If you have already had it repaired, the letter I got has a method to get reimbursed.
Yes, unfortunately this only covers the condenser, not the compressor. Honda denied my warranty so I fixed it myself.
@Joel Loeffler The a/c system in these cars are faulty from top to bottom. Next time you need it repaired, and there WILL be a next time, they'll likely tell you the compressor is gone as well and will charge you $1700...
Not only does it only cover the condenser, they will find any reason under the sun to not do it. In my case it was because despite it having a hole in the condenser they didn't believe it was my primary issue
Obviously don't want to cause cross contamination, but did you change the compressor specifically for the different refrigerant, or just to avoid cross contamination? We will be doing this on our 2017 Civic but going to just thoroughly vac down the system if the compressor is the same part number.
I changed the compressor because it was leaking. Good luck 👍
@@Sals_Garage I found a TSB from Honda last night that the condenser is covered for 10 years now, going to try and get it serviced, if that's not the cause then we will still have to give this a try!
@@triptheroad good idea. You will need to pay a diagnostic fee for Honda to check still. Here in the Bay Area, Honda wanted $495 to diagnose the issue. If it’s the condenser then you get refunded, but anything else then you won’t get the money back.
@@Sals_Garage damn I know mechanics get screwed on diagnostics, but that's a high fee to put some dye and pressure in the system
@@Sals_Garage luckily our local dealership here in Fredericksburg VA didn't charge the diagnostic at all, they said they've seen so many come through with the issue that they aren't even asking questions 😂
How long did you let the vacuum run for?
30 min.
Im guessing its still too early to tell if the problem persists with the new refrigerant?
It’s been a year so far since I have done this fix and the AC is still blowing cold and more reliable than the stock refrigerant which would have leaked out by now.
@@Sals_Garage that gives me hope and says screw what others say
@@ct0760 happy to help 😊
@@Sals_Garage although I have to say my compressor failed again 18 months after the replacement so that may be another milestone 🤷♂️
@@ct0760 mine did too that’s why I did it myself this time.
In the future everyone with R134a will have to convert to R1234yf.
Sad reality. In California, gasoline cars will be banned by 2035
@@Sals_Garage phasing out something should be done slowly over the course of decades, so that it makes it a lot easier for the market to build upon a new infrastructure for it and allow people to become adapted to it. EV technology is great and all, but I don't think we are there just yet for it to become mainstream. If I can fill up an EV as fast as I could my gas car on empty to full, and if I was guaranteed a 400+ mile range. Ontop of the battery lasting 15+ years, then I'm sold on EV, but who knows when that will ever be accomplished. I'm a fan of hydrogen, it just makes more sense. Especially from an environmental standpoint where the cost of making energy for a bunch of EV vehicles has to come from somewhere. And that somewhere is at the expense of power plants to produce all that energy for 100's millions of EVs, that will be on the road in the future. Most of out power plants in the USA run off fossil fuel. So, I don't see how EVs are going to be better for the environment, when you're going to have all of these fossil fuel power plants having to produce more energy to power EV stations and EV cars in the future.
I'm gonna run it.
Awesome to hear! Glad my video helped someone out! My AC is still running strong!
Can you believe Honda is denying this bullshit.
Yea Honda is being very greedy about fixing this problem.
👍🏼
Thanks Sauce.