Part 2: Yamaha CA-1010 Natural Sound HiFi Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Finishing off this heavy beast of a HiFi amp.
The owner got ripped off by another shop which charged $1k to do basically nothing, and held on to the unit for over 12 months. We're going to get this amp healthy and happy for the next 20+ years by giving it the love and attention it deserves.
This repair was outstanding! I am finally subscribed!
Excellent! Thank You for your efforts. I need to do this on my CA-1010.
Great work! This OG gear deserves to be restored to its former glory.
A tip about cutting component leads after soldering; if the solder pads and traces on the board have been stressed by the heat from a hot-running power-supply resistor/diode/transistor, clipping the leads after soldering the connections can sometimes actually cause the pads to debond and lift off of the circuit board. It is always best to nip the component leads off with really sharp, fresh cutters, as that minimizes the torsion and mechanical stress to the pads and traces; and if the board is discolored from heat you might be better off clipping the leads short *before* you solder them. (Brad already knows this, so this info is aimed at newbies). BTW, some more modern equipment will have circuit board pads and traces that are particularly thin and fragile by design and seem to peel off of the board if you just look at them funny, and will require you to solder really quickly and cleanly so as to minimize the chance of the heat from the soldering iron causing the foils to debond from the board.
And this is where a quality temperature controlled & adjustable soldering station is a must. The Hakko FX888 is an affordable unit which fits the application, despite it's woeful and illogical user interface.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , can't tell for certain from viewing this on my phone, but it looks like you're using a conical soldering tip ---- I prefer a so-called "chisel" tip myself (for benefit of newbies, a chisel tip actually has rounded, not sharp, edges). Many soldering irons and stations include a conical tip as the one and only accessory ---- so buy additional tips in other shapes and experiment to see what works best for you.
@@goodun2974 I don't think I've ever used a conical tip. Chisels only around this joint, mate! I have no idea why they ship those useless tips with every new iron. Maybe to keep the competent solderer club a little but exclusive. HAHA!
I learn sumptin every time you post a new video. Thank you.
So do I, mate! Just about every day I see something I've never seen before. You really never know it al in this trade!
By the way, although the multi-pole slide switches used for input selection and similar functions such as record-out (actuated in this unit by the long aluminum rods) will typically clean up okay with a few drops of contact cleaner, on occasion I have had to *disassemble* them and polish the silver--plated switch contacts with a pencil eraser. A tricky operation for sure, with dozens of connections to unsolder in order to remove the switch; and some of the pins are bent over where they pass through the board and sometimes break off when you try to unsolder and straighten them prior to removing the switch. At the very least, the underside of such switches should always be inspected for bad solder connections, because of the side to side forces imparted to the switch when changing modes..
Sometimes shining a flashlight through the board can help identify where parts are located
Yes, if I didn't have the camera in the way I would use the overhead bench lamp on it's side.
👏👏
To add to the bi polar caps suggestions, you should use solder when soldering...
Or "sodder" if talking to Americans.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Being from the Southern US I do not take offense to that because it's true.
Lol. Had to pause the video for sec and just saw where you mentioned the cap blowing up. My comment was originally for the comment you made at the beginning of video about bi-polar caps. Oh the irony... Glad you mentioned it though, it gives newbs like me some hope.
@@jbolt247 I was desoldering a part the other day and a contamination bubble in the solder pool popped, flicking molten solder in my eye too, so it's been a good week so far!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , yes, it is pronounced "sodder". I don't understand why some people have so much difficulty with the concept of a "silent" letter L in solder. How would you pronounce the word *subtle*? As "suttle" or "sub-tul"?
You should do a video on modding the shitty light on the fluke 179.
Meh, I don't use it anyway. Tradesmen with real jobs might though.
Thanks alot it helped. i have a problem with the wiring can you help.i dont know how to send u a pic. amp board right side.
The CA-1010 and many other Yamaha service manuals are freely available online.
They will hold any info you should need.
Although this particular Yamaha might have had bipolar caps in the important places, many such units do not ---- and later Yamaha models went back to using failure-prone polarized caps in the feedback circuits.. *This is what happens when older engineers who know stuff, who know better, retire*. Companies lose institutional knowledge and start repeating the mistakes of the past. It's deja vu all over again!
Sorry mate, it's clear now that you're commenting for the benefit of other viewers and I appreciate the time you take to do that now.
For a moment there I thought you were coaching me.
I do need coaching from time to time, usually closer to Friday, though. HAHA!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , Lyle at Psionic inadvertently assumed similar ---- but thats not how I'm built. I'm old, and I have a lot of experience ---- and a lot of mistakes, andchaos too 😃 ---- rattling around inside my brainpan, and I can't take it with me when I croak, so I might as well make myself usefull while I am able to....
@@BradsGuitarGarage , no amount of coaching me, at sports, could ever improve my performance with a bat, or a ball, or make me care to...