10 Computer Mistakes Most People Make
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
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▼ Time Stamps: ▼
0:00 - Intro
0:15 - Mistake #1
1:09 - Mistake #2
3:06 - Good Thing
4:36 - Mistake #3
6:21 - Mistake #4
7:11 - Mistake #5
7:57 - Mistake #6
9:05 - Mistake #7
10:46 - Mistake #8
11:11 - Mistake #9
12:11 - Mistake #10
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Lol
how is your comment 8 minutes ago when this was posted 5 min ago
I think he uploads these videos and then sets it so they release on a specific time. (I do that sometimes)
I will not, I'd rather have money and no privacy, than no money and no privacy
Delete me is USA only
A lot of these ‘mistakes’ are also things that are not needed when working with a computer like changing monitor color or power plans. Some people have laptops and need to save power while others have desktops and need all the power they can get. Just be careful on which ‘mistake’ you want to fix.
Even setting the bios password is optional and should only be done if you travel a lot or afraid of your device being stolen.
Refresh rate I can agree with for gamers, but no big deal if you have a business computer.
Yep not all of these are applicable to all people
@@ThioJoe with all said and done, you make great educating videos for all tech and non tech people around.
Thank you 🙏🏻✨
Is the battery mode setting on the battery icon need to change too?
@@darwisyaiman1865Depending on your needs. If you want some more battery life on the go you can slide to "best battery life." But if you needs to do a bit heavy task you can slide to "best performance"
I still find I want good color accuracy at work, even though I'm not doing production work. There's something to be said about a good looking display, no matter what you do with it.
Agreed though that these aren't universally applicable.
Most router passwords are randomized and printed on the router nowadays, or force you to make your own password during initial setup. I think the bigger risk is if you have uPnP turned on the malware can open up your router to further intrusion.
Also obviously, don't use the night light mode if you work in graphic design, as that can really screw you over on a project if you're coloring a project with a tinted screen.
Connection passwords are random and printed he’s talking the router admin config password
@@lawrencespicher1769 Same thing (they are random and printed on it or a sticker), at least for the routers I have used/seen.
@@Graminifor me there the default
I personally have Night Mode on 24/7 on both my phone and laptop at, like, 90%. And you’re right when you say taking it off after adjusting is blinding. I have it set like this because loud sounds and bright light are my two biggest headache inducers, with me having higher sensitivity with Asperger’s Syndrome. Night Mode at least solves the bright light half of that.
You probably could get away with less than 90% if you also lowered the brightness a little, or a lot. That sounds excessive even for me though I'm unsure what a percentage value means. Mine is at 3400K 24/7.
@@soulstenance Whatever 90% is on the standard Windows 11 Night Mode Slider, that’s what I rock. Is there is a way to view the value in that particular format? I wouldn’t know how, if so.
But yeah, I know max brightness is overkill, but I’m not the only one using my laptop. My mom is on and off using it trying to find her a new job at this point in time, and she can’t really see much on anything but max brightness. I keep it on while I’m on it just because I tend to be forgetful with little things like that, mainly for her sake.
@@TheVanishingDark534 On Windows I don't think there is. Not sure, never used Windows 11. Makes sense. Can you set those values on a per user basis I wonder?
Firmware updates are not always good, be sure to check what they changed in the changelog (if available) because if you aren't having any major problems, why add to your troubles with potentially more issues
IOW, don't fix what was not broken ??
Yep
unfortunately because of a lot of security issues like spectre and meltdown and the new one(forgot the name), you should still do that from time to time.
If you upgrade some hardware and the pc stops working, update the motherboard's firmware, period. Had that exact thing happen to me not so long ago and the firmware was 4 years out of date. No wonder it wouldn't detect the new GPU
And this is why I hate that laptop manufacturers have introduced automatic UEFI updates via Windows updates while Bitlocker is enabled by default.
Edit: Also, now’s a good time to check for UEFI update because of the LogoFail vulnerability.
I don't totally agree about the frimware update : sometime, it can remove on purpose a fonctionality.
For exemple, the last update for my audio card remove the Dolby Thaeter mode, leaving only the DTS part. I had to roll back and block update to prevent loosing the Dolby again.
So make sure you read the entire changlog (if aviable) before updating an important hardware.
Also, not setting a BIOS password can be time saving, because when your family member ask you to overlook his computer, and don't remember the BIOS password, your only luck is to search for the default BIOS password aroud Internet ...
Yes, a BIOS password requires a certain level of technical responsibility that non-interested people don't have.
yup, my network card somehow got really slow after updating firmware
The monitor settings tip is a life saver - I was wondering why my second monitor looked so bad for a while now 😅
Me too! Its a pretty old one so I just thought meh, looks bad. I can deal with it.
I tried changing the settings and I feel like I just bought a new display.
Whoa, the color setting for monitor was actually shocking how much color I've been missing. Thanks a lot!
Two things:
> On desktop computers it might be worth to go the extra mile and disable all power saving features like SpeedStep or C1E. This will force the clock to max and you benefit from low load performance gains cause your processor isnt randomly downclocking to 1.6 Ghz or lower.
> Absolutely never destroy anything. Keep the storage, wipe it, format it several times, and then either reuse it or sell it, you can make a buck with some hdds and ssds
I would add a little warning about using a BIOS password, there are no safe guards if you forget that password. You may even find trouble getting help restoring your computer, I would probably offer to just pull the HD and recover the data to be put on a new computer.
Resetting your BIOS is a no-brainer.
Having a bios password doesn’t encrypt drive data at all- just plug-in the drive into another computer
@@danmar007no it’s not (not for people who are not very tech savvy at least)
There's always password managers to use.
@@GreatMossWater Using a PW manager for a BIOS PW might be inconvenient because it has to be on another device.
Big one I have seen is people not removing stuff that says "Please remove before use" like those packaging foams, not as prominent now with glass side panels but it still happens commonly.
I've heard of people forgetting to remove the "Please remove before use" plastic thingy that covers AIO blocks, so they end up installing the AIO onto their CPU with a literal thermal insulator between the CPU and the AIO block pump thing. Then they wonder why their CPU temps are so high, lol
It happens in lots of situations. I sell auto parts, and I don't know how many people have brought car batteries back as defective over the years because they didn't take the little plastic post covers off before attaching their cables lol. And one of the covers is RED!
@@k.b.tidwell Those are the same kind of people to return a light bulb because it "doesn't work" when they don't have the light switch turned on 🤣
@@GamingGenius777 YES!
#10 If you can find a "write zeros to wipe out hard drive" program, use it. It will take awhile to run, but actually blanks out all files, not just the directory.
It’s called doing a non-quick format
@@lawrencespicher1769 writing zeros is actually deeper than the regular format. Most overwrite programs call it something like super-secure deletion, or maybe NSA-level or some such. Data can be recovered from a regularly formatted drive, but the zero-write nukes it.
This is not safe for SSDs though, because they work different to magnetic drives. If you want to wipe an SSD safely, look up "secure erase" instead, ideally combined with your drive's manufacturer, some of them have little tools you can download for that purpose.
You can also use shred in the terminal for individual files if you’re paranoid about sensitive information
HDMI cables are not marked their specs like Ethernet cables such as Cat 5E, Cat 7 etc. Once they’re mix ed together, you can only do trial and errors.
The tip for monitor colour range was a good one. I went i to the Nvidia options per the instructions and the improvement was immediately noticeable. Thanks for the great tip!
To mistake #7 I can say, on a Dell Latitude 5530 the KDE power profile "High performance" can cause extreme coil whine. For me it would only stop once I either set it to "balanced" or "low", or once the fan kicked in.
Another one, when people buy a "gaming pc" a lot of people seem to forget to turn on XMP also known as D.O.C.P in some AMD motherboards. Just make sure the RAM speed doesn't exceed the supported speed by the CPU or it may not work. After updating Bios this also needs to be enabled again.
This basically means if you plug in XMP 3200mhz ddr4 RAM into a computer, it'll be running at JEDEC 2133mhz until you manually go switch it on in bios. JEDEC is the default safe speed for all RAM, you can research what these words mean if you care because it's too much to explain here.
I think Task manager will show your RAM speed, but a more detailed way to know is use a program called CPU-Z. Check the memory speed tab, DRAM Frequency and then double that number to know your true speed. DDR = Double Data rate, thats why we double it. In the next Tab SPD, you can see all the memory profiles. The JEDEC and XMP profiles.
If you go to turn on XMP and your PC fails to boot, just wait and it should fix itself. There is a lot of reasons why this could happen, like the CPU isnt happy with the speed. This can be fixed with adjusting voltages or timings, trial and error. but if you're not interested in researching and figuring that out, Bios should return to safe setting, but if all fails then you can remove the battery from your motherboard for 10 seconds then reconnect it, then it'll return back to factory settings/JEDEC speeds.
I would turn off "Fast Startup" even though it is recommended to have it on. Rebuilding the Kernal (with "Fast Startup" turned off) takes seconds and it just means that any lose ends will likely get fixed each time you start up Windows
That's a good idea, not to mention doesn't Fast Startup involve saving a sort of hibernation file? I've been 90% on Linux a long time so I can't remember the other thirty years of my Windows use lol. So turning it off would also save storage space and SSD wear I believe. I know that the one Windows computer I have for AAA gaming has it turned off and I believe that's the reason I did it in the first place.
Windows's "Fast Startup/Boot" caused my PC to boot slower. It also caused various problems that magically vanished after I disabled it.
I'm against the average user setting bios password unless there's a very high probability of losing the device, whatever benefits you achieve in terms of data protection can also be achieved by a full disk encryption, while with a bios lock you'll basically turn the device into ewaste if you forget it (if it isn't just for changing settings) or if the person who gets it in the future as part of a sale or whatever doesn't know it.
Master passwords are a thing and there are websites where you can get them
Did you make any mistakes without realizing it? Or perhaps some of them aren't applicable?
Sometimes
sometimes
the one about the color range. it was set to limited by default
I actually didnt have my 2nd monitor on full RGB. Always assumed the screen was kinda crappy as it was like 80€ and since its only a chat window I didn't bat an eye. Now it actually looks kinda good haha
Nope, and I don't think most users should put a password on the bios settings of a laptop. However, they should encrypt the SSD with Bitlocker.
Glad that you mentioned the malware Wi-Fi password stuff. If you aren't prepared for it and you end up having malware, you'll affect the people around you and even potentially ruin your life like if your browser is logged in to your bank accounts.
Completely disagree about the setting a BIOS password. BIOS passwords are easily bypassed. Also, it doesnt protect your data in any way. The bad actor can just pull your hard drive out of the laptop and and attach it to another computer, then have complete access to your files. Setting up disk encryption is the way to go. All major operating systems have built in disk encryption. Additionally, if for some reason you need to access your laptop remotely and it rebooted for some reason, you would not be able to enter the BIOS password.
I agree. The only benefit to the BIOS password is that SOME BIOS's unlock extra features with it, but that's not guaranteed every time. I do have one laptop though that only allows certain manipulations if the password is set. Otherwise, you're absolutely correct.
It makes theft a lot less lucrative if you can't format it and sell it. Reducing the reward for theft has a large cumulative effect.
@@capability-snob Cant format what? A hard drive can *ALWAYS* be formatted.
@@finkelmana you can remove the SSD and format the disk in another machine, or replace it, but it's a different degree of effort than being able to stick the install USB in and boot from it.
@@capability-snob Im sorry, wtf are you talking about? The HAVE the laptop. Its stolen. They arent going to give up with a bios password.
My NVIDIA and monitor color range has always been limited, so I turned them both to use full range. Great! All the colors are vibrant.
But I also has been using Night Light for the longest time, very comfortable with it at level 33.
Turning night light off (because I want to see the actual color), right after setting full color range. Let's just say it wasn't a pleasant experience for my eyes 😂Think I'm seeing colors now.
You can taste them also))
Thank you this is very useful!👍
One thing about firmware updates, NEVER try to cancel or in any way disrupt them.
I learned this at a very young age, when i was updating my brothers PSP and subsequently bricked it :))))
You don't want to be that guy who bricks his brothers PSP.
Really useful! Thanks to ThioJoe!
I heavily disagree with the storage at the end.
If you have an ssd (which is very easy to check on windows) I would look at using any Secure Erase options. Some manafactures (like HP) have this option in the BIOS.
again, this is just for SSDs, it will voltage spike all the cells on the SSD wiping it. It only takes a few seconds. On the HPs we have at work, 256gb is gone on 7 seconds.
The SSD has to support secure erase, as the ssd wipes itself, but I have not come across one that doesn't support it.
This way you can prevent e-waste and the next person that buys your computer can have a ssd that works that you know they can't get the data back.
Yes, I agree, and it's a pain to find a great bargain on a used computer and then realize that because the owner doesn't know this you now have to buy a drive, if their goal was to keep you from seeing their porn (which I have encountered on a couple purchases). Or...they may just want to reuse the drive in another computer lol.
Yeah, most SSDs have a secure erase which uses the erase command on all the flash. This is quick and erases every bit and resets the drive to a factory configuration. I do this whenever I get a used SSD to ensure best performance (I usually get MLC enterprise drives with 99% health so the only issue is them having been run for years).
@@gblargg where do you get those enterprise drives? That sounds like an ideal source for my purposes.
@@k.b.tidwell The big auction site. Most recently I got a 2TB SM963a units for like seventy buckeroos.
the dynamic range to full changed my life, thank you!
I actually did set a password for my BIOS, thinking it was weak security and I made the password too complicated and eventually my RAM stopped working, got it replaced, needed my BIOS password, and I've been locked out of that computer ever since.
So a forced CMOS reset like removing the battery or shorting jumpers won't fix that? I don't know so that's why I'm asking. Well...now you can justify buying a new, better motherboard!
@@k.b.tidwell You're right it would but the device I'm talking about it a laptop and it's in a hard-to-reach area.
@@CYLITM oh I see. Yeah that's disappointing. I've got an old Chromebook I bricked while cracking it to install Linux and it sits in the closet, mocking me.
As you mentioned HDMI cables: Very often people complain that data transfer takes so long but it's just because they use an old or too long USB cable.
Uhhhhhhhhhhhhh what?
@@lextacy2008 His point was that HDMI cables and USB cables can both be lower quality and have slower transfer rates, but only HDMI cables were mentioned in the video.
I would add setting up your Wi-Fi in the 2.4 GHz band to broadcast on channels other than 1, 6, or 11. Also, setting up bandwidth greater than 20 MHz in that band. The really, really bad thing about this is that by not following these rules, not only are you messing up your own Wi-Fi, but you’re eff’ing up all your neighbors’ Wi-Fi as well, especially in a dense environment like an apartment building. Unfortunately, I see people doing this out of ignorance all the time.
A wifi scanning app on your phone can be your best friend!😁
Thanks for this!
Even as an IT veteran of 40 years, I've learned a few things!
Thanks for the advice!
Could you do a video about computer sleep? I am very confused about S3 S4 and S5 sleep, GPU DC3Cold support, how hibernate interacts with all this, and other hardware differences. It would be nice to reduce the idle power usage of my computer, and learn how to set up the sleep states exactly how I want. Does anyone else know where to find resources on understanding this?
great and simple advices!
Wow, changing the color mode made the colors on my monitor much more vibrant. Thanks!
I would like to express concern about "Mistake #3." I read documentation, which we should all do from time to time. My monitor is an HP Omen 27qs. It is 2k and supports up to 24o Hz over DP and less than 200 over HDMI because the ports don't have the same bandwidth for pixels. Also, that only applies in 8-bit colour mode. Switching to 10-bit colour depth requires more data, which increases GPU load if you aren't already maxed out and reduces frame rates while increasing frame render time. If you care about these things, please consult your monitors manuals before changing this setting.
Happy holidays 🎄
Wow!...You know your stuff. AND you're an awesome person for sharing your knowledge to help others.
To mistake #10 I can say, I have a simple solution. Just do a "sudo dd if=/dev/urandom of=/dev/sdX status=progress", replacing "/dev/sdX" with the path to the drive file (WARNING: Do that to the right drive, not any where you want to keep the data that's on there!). Do three passes of that and then there will be no chance anyone can recover the data that was there before because it has been overwritten with different garbage data several times.
To anyone not on a UNIX-like system (like MacOS or Linux), use some data shredder that can virtually shredder drives.
or just use srm (secure-delete) for "maximum security". The best is throwing your hdd into lava tho.
"srm is designed to delete data on mediums in a secure manner which can not be recovered by thiefs, law enforcement or other
threats. The wipe algorythm is based on the paper "Secure Deletion of Data from Magnetic and Solid-State Memory" presented
at the 6th Usenix Security Symposium by Peter Gutmann, one of the leading civilian cryptographers.
The secure data deletion process of srm goes like this:
* 1 pass with 0xff
* 5 random passes. /dev/urandom is used for a secure RNG if available.
* 27 passes with special values defined by Peter Gutmann.
* 5 random passes. /dev/urandom is used for a secure RNG if available.
* Rename the file to a random value
* Truncate the file
As an additional measure of security, the file is opened in O_SYNC mode and after each pass an fsync() call is done. srm
writes 32k blocks for the purpose of speed, filling buffers of disk caches to force them to flush and overwriting old data
which belonged to the file."
Usually, device's firmware does not need to update when it works. For GoPro camera yes. but for a motherboard, if you need to compatible with new CPU.
Great point about firmware updates of peripheral devices. Working in IT, we have a lot of laptop and docking station setups. I’d say at least half or more docking station issues I’ve gotten are resolved just by updating the dock firmware.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but
Considering the fact the "night filter" doesn't show up in recordings, I assume it's a display (monitor) filter and doesn't affect performance in games.
I have a question for you @ThioJoe, why is it that when checking all cores/threads in msiconfig in boot cause windows to become corrupt or not launch. I wonder also if you'd make a video about it. I have forgotten about some of the details but I've this mistake a few times and an explanations would be helpful. Thank you for making informational videos about Windows and other tech too! :D
Just came here to talk about the fact that bro called an aircraft “dummy thicc”
Thank you for the monitor color range advise, My monitor is a tv, but once I switched the color mode, the colors actually look better, it's like I upgraded my monitor.
I actually got a monitor once and was confused why the colors were very washed out. I then switched to 144Hz and that fixed it (for some reason?). It took me a while to realize that I had to set it to full range in Nvidia settings to see correct colors with lower refresh rates. Since then I've switched to a DisplayPort cable, because I wanted to use Freesync (and you can't do that over HDMI afaik).
Very helpful video.
I've been using Nightlight for years and just started using a dimmer app Twinkle Tray with Nightlight, Twinkle Tray dos'nt make the screen orange it keeps it white light but dim and together it seems to work well
Don't change the bios password. You'll never use it and therefore forget it when needed in the future. Just encrypt the SSD with bitlocker in Windows. Then when a bios setting is changed the bitlocker key needs to be entered for it to continue to boot to windows.
Unless in a corporate or business environment, Bitlocker, especially with BL-PIN, would not be my recommendation, at least for home use.
@@MrPir84free It is when you want your personal data to be safe if the device gets stolen. Of course, you'll need Windows Pro, not home. Nevertheless, a bios password is a bad idea.
There's still a faulty memory component to that plan, not to mention needing to upgrade to Pro.
"You'll get used to it very, very quickly." Say it louder for the people in the back! This is so true. There have been times when I've actually questioned if it was even on, only to turn it off and yes, blind myself.
Your BIOS password should be set to prevent changing the boot device. This makes your computer a lot harder to sell if stolen, reducing the likely reward for theft by quite a bit.
11:15 As a sound and lighting guy, the nightshift colour looks weird and triggers the heck outta me. So I solemnly swear to never use that ever.
12:55 I never ran into the issue of having laptop storage drive soldered on to the MB. The laptops I own/took apart always have removable 2.5" HDD or an M.2 SSD. And the drives I gave out I do wipe them with Nwipe on default mode (fill the drive to the brim with 0 and 1 at random 3 times) so good job to me l guess.
I'm NOT into sound and lighting, but I do love a great display image so I just take a melatonin tablet at bedtime lol.
I already knew about night mode. I tried it for a while, but it drove me crazy knowing my colors weren't accurate
You had forgot about the output color format on the Nvidia control panel. Some monitors would allow you to use "YCbCr444" but force you to have the output dynamic range to limited.
I'm a mega tech nerd and yet the color depth old hdmi and firmware ones I was doing. Thanks!
Great video! Especially the fact that Bios password may be helpful to prevent the use of the bios to remove your windows account password
The BIOS is in a chip on your motherboard. It has no direct connection to the OS, and can't change your OS password.
@@jimdavis6833 I meant something else
Thank you, sir!
Delete Me, your sponsor, is AWESOME! Been a member over 5 years. 😊
Have one of those 144Hz displays and an NVIDIA graphics card for quite a while now, and I had no idea about Windows not defaulting to the max refresh rate supported / having to change my colour profile!
I draw / edit videos, so those were game-changing!
I just enabled HDR on my monitor, since it is an HDR monitor. However, since the contrast on that was horrible, and everything looked completely washed out with it on, I used to always have it disabled. This video reminded me I have the NVidia control panel that can fix that.
I clicked on this for entertainment but ended up changing a few of these myself. Thanks.
'High Power' Energy mode is, to make a car analogy, like disabling the automatic start/stop that modern engines do and putting in sports mode.
Red shift or night mode is fantastic in the evening. I experience a huge improvement 'winding down' in the evening with it turned on.
Thanks Joe.
The biggest mistake I see everyone makes is nobody knows that middle clicking a link opens it in a new tab. It blows me away that nobody does this.
I know this
ikr, I first learned that from a MAC video. Another way to do something similar is to hold a right click and then let go when you're hovering over your preferred context menu item, which also lets you access all right click functionality.
also if you middle click a tab it will close it without having to hunt for the "X"
that being said, I'm not sure I'd call it a "mistake" per-se. Like, It's (at least to my knowledge) the fastest way to open and close tabs without keybinds, but navigating a GUI is, by design, a very fluid concept that can be tackled in a bunch of different ways. Ntm that for most mice "middle click" is bound to the scroll wheel which might not be the most comfortable thing to press down on for some and many (especially cheaper) mice don't do a great job of preventing you from rolling the scroll wheel without meaning to.
Yes, I always learn something, even on topics I am fairly familiar with...
Number 3 is great, I had my monitor set but totally neglected the graphics settings in the gpu driver.
Hey, my monitor supports outside of RGB also YCbCr colour space, do you know if it's worth switching to from RGB? Colours seem mostly the same.
Fun fact: A recently released extensive study came to the conclusion that blue light has no effect on eye strain or similar, so those night modes only make your color accurarcy worse
Then why does it feel so much better?
Yes, all of these red-spectrum apps are focused on stopping the reduction of melatonin production so you sleep well. I'd rather see correct colors though, so I tried the apps but meh don't use them anymore. I simply take a 1.25mg dose (a quarter dose) of melatonin pills every night if I have trouble sleeping, but that's not all the time either. I sleep like a dead rock and dream what feels like every second I'm asleep, so I know I'm getting into deep REM sleep.
Yeah it sounded like bs
@@anotheryoutubeaccount5259 well, it's complicated. Blue light is proven to suppress melatonin production. BUT some people make enough that it doesn't even matter if they have reduced production. For me, it may well indeed suppress melatonin, but I've never been a super great sleeper anyway because I do a lot of physical work so I usually hurt during the night in some way or another. Any better sleep I might get is awesome, but to someone else it might be crappy. It's all a matter of degrees, and since I don't look at perfect sleep as normal anyway, the red look is just a pain in the butt to look at to me.
I've had issues with thermals when running in high performance on certain machines in the past, but maybe those were just bugs. Doesn't it only take a few milliseconds for it to clock up on balanced anyway? I'd be interested in seeing how much of a different it makes in gaming.
My favorite IT teacher since 2017. DON"T IGNORE MY COMMENT THINGJING!
In terms of Power Mode (Mistake 7).
Does Balanced mode (with slider all the way to maximum performance) differ from just High Performance?
I heard that modern Windows uses the taskbar-based power setting mostly and that requires the Balanced power profile. The power profiles are an older config style.
Pretty good advices.
By now, I pretty much permanently have the windows night light on. Used to it and just feels more comfortable to look at
Hey Joe , Is Ultimate Performance the same as high Performance in Power Plan . Is it the one You said that will run at Max Spped all the time ?
About the power plan: If you have an amd ryzen cpu, it’s recommended to use the ryzen balanced one rather than performance. Amd itself suggests you use it
If you have Zen 3 you won't have to do that.
Man, I'd love to get back into an AMD system. I had one back in the '90's and it was a great performer and much cheaper than Intel at that time. But I don't want to give up Thunderbolt!
@@k.b.tidwell Yeah man in the past few years AMD really has been amazing! I guess USB 4 is somewhat comparable to thunderbolt, but depending on how you're set up it could not be worth the hassle
I just upgraded to a 5800x3D few days ago and man I'm amazed by it, it's the perfect upgrade my pc needed
I actually didn't know about the Nvidia color settings, so I just changed that, thank you!
10:15 - Notebooks can recognize if itself on cable power or on battery and select profile according power source, so If you on cable, it automatically switch to power mode and if you on battery only it automatically switch to energy save mode...
Also if you have LG monitor you can maybe use their onscreen control software. So you dont need to use the nipple on the monitor to change the monitor settings. :)
You can change the power settings on a per-application basis in Windows 11
@ 0:55 -- Why would William Shatner want my redirected packets? 🤣
i have my powerplan set to ultimate, is that fine for a 3060 Ti and a 12th gen core i7?
Saw a little mistake there, in the BIOS the User Password means that you need to enter the password to access the BIOS, but it won't prompt for it unless Password on boot is enabled.
Won't a BIOS lock prevent any kind of "find my device" from working?
I love your site. I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I loaded 17.3 to my iPad. Now I am seeing an icon that looks like a camera and also a floating dot. Both can be moved around on the screen. I cannot delete either. What should I do?
How do I log into the router interface? I'll look at the titles among your downloads, so I hope there is something there.
Disk data does persist after the file entry is removed from the table and blocks are deallocated, but if you fill the whole space with random data then there's no chance it's getting read.
WHAT?
I have a user BIOS password, the only downside is windows "Update and shut down" option. Microsoft changed this behaviour a little while ago so it actually does a restart in the middle of the update, so if you hit this option and walk away and leave it running, it will be stuck on the password screen and will not shut down.
Joe: You have to physically destroy hard drives to keep the data secure.
DBAN: Am I a joke to you?
Alternatively to setting up a bios password, could one be safe using Bitlocker instead?
@ThioJoe Hi👋, I recently installed Windows 10 Pro 22H2 on my PC. After i installed all drivers, I'm hearing some hissing or crackling sound in very small amount on headphone when i hover mouse on chrome or any apps on pc. How can i fix that. I don't have any virus, fully scanned. With previous OS installed this wasn't the problem. How do i fix that small coming sound?? Please help.
There are several potential solutions you can try:
1. Check Audio Settings:
Playback devices: Right-click the speaker icon in the taskbar and select "Sounds." Under the "Playback" tab, ensure your headphones are set as the default device. Try adjusting the balance and speaker configuration if needed.
Sound properties: Right-click your headphones and select "Properties." Go to the "Levels" tab and adjust the slider for "Speakers" and "Microphone" to see if either affects the hissing sound.
Enhancements: Under the "Advanced" tab, click "Disable all enhancements" and test the sound again. If the hissing disappears, you can try re-enabling specific enhancements one by one to identify the culprit.
2. Update Drivers:
Audio driver: Even though you updated other drivers, double-check if an updated audio driver is available for your specific motherboard or sound card. Download and install the latest driver from the manufacturer's website or Windows Update.
Graphics driver: In some cases, outdated graphics drivers can also cause audio issues. Check for updates for your graphics card driver as well.
3. Hardware and Software Conflicts:
USB ports: Try plugging your headphones into a different USB port on your PC. Sometimes, electrical interference from other devices connected to the same port can cause audio issues.
Background applications: Close any unnecessary programs running in the background that might be using audio resources. Some software, like virtual machines or video recording tools, can interfere with sound output.
Chrome extensions: If the hissing sound only occurs when using Chrome, try disabling any recently installed extensions and see if the problem persists.
4. System Restore:
If none of the above solutions work, you can consider using System Restore to revert your system to a point before the hissing sound started. This will undo any recent system changes, including driver updates and software installations, that might be causing the issue.
Additional Tips:
Test with different headphones: If you have another pair of headphones available, try connecting them to your PC to see if the hissing sound persists. This can help isolate the issue to your original headphones or the audio configuration on your PC.
Check for audio jack issues: Try cleaning the audio jack on your headphones and laptop/PC with a dry cotton swab to remove any debris that might be causing poor connection.
By systematically trying these solutions, you should hopefully be able to identify the source of the hissing sound and resolve the issue. If none of these suggestions work, consider seeking help from a professional technician or contacting Microsoft support for further assistance.
The Control Panel trick just made my year! THANK YOU!!! 🥳
as you hinted bios passwords can easily reset by short circuit the battery so not much protection.
For over a year I was plagued by windows kept changing the RGB dynamic range to limited making black colors gray... Almost daily I had to change it back to full. This problem stopped when I bought a horrible expensive 80 dollar 2m long HDMI cable.
On my school they dont have configured any bios passwords on the laptops. Kinda fun
gotta go through your BIOS to lock your cpu freq. I had to do that for my mobo since I would have a higher chance of random BSOD's
One time back when I was living in a condo, in the garbage disposal area, someone had thrown away their old laptop. Of course I took it with me, opened it up and removed the HDD. Drive definitely had some sensitive info (like someone's resume), so I at least did the nice thing and kept the drive out and threw the laptop. Formatted the drive for myself.
On another note, I always tell people not to use the Admin account on their PCs
my xfinity router was set to "password" lol, thanks for notifying me! i changed it and now its secure
Check with your ISP before updating router firmware if the router was supplied by them. Many ISPs recommend you do not update the firmware from the manufacturer because it might brick your router or prevent you from connecting to the internet