One of, if not the best tutorial on the subject. If you need an idea for another video, I don’t think anyone has touched on the subject of tool post angle when turning and facing. It might be second nature to the experienced machinist but very confusing for people starting out.
Good run through. If i might add a little personal experience, back in woodwork class at school, a long time ago before the internet, global warming or even colour tv, i was undoing a screw on chuck on a wood lathe. When it got to the end of the thread it dropped and as i was using two hands to undo guess what happened, yup a black finger nail. I got kudos there though, apparently the last guy to do it swore a lot before fainting. I was then told to hold the chuck from above and unscrew it by turning the spindle so you are never surprised when the thread ends. OK not always possible on a metal lathe but the principle holds, never have your hand under the chuck when removing it. As for which is cutest, my garden Badgers beat your dogs any day, take a look if you haven't seen them on youtube already. ATB c
I've been subscribed since nearly the beginning of your posting videos That being said, sure I'll hit the 'like button', but that's not a vote for Iggy, sadly as that's a heckuva handsome dog I have to vote for Chotcho because older dogs deserve more appreciation than they get, may Chotcho have many more years ahead 👍
Sadly, he has been having a lot of trouble lately. He's been deaf for about a year or so and has started having a lot of trouble seeing recently. Other than that he's still pretty spry on walks and takes his duties of peeing on the entire neighborhood very seriously.
@@StuartdeHaro I'm glad to hear that he takes his duties seriously, too many 'youngsters' these days could learn a thing or two from the wisdom of the previous generations 👍
Stuart, I purchased a junkyard lathe and have been attempting to restore it to a usable condition. The mounting is an L-1 and there is a drive plate and center currently mounted. I need to loosen the retaining ring so I can remove the drive plate and center. First off I need to tell you that there are no engaged gears on the outboard headstock of the lathe. Even at that, I am not a real fan of trying to free mechanisms against teeth of gears. So, I have sprayed penetrating fluid until the cows came home and that is serious as I live in the heart of a very large city. I have a spanner wrench and torqued it with a cheater pipe. No cigar. . . I have even heated up the ring (with a Mapp gas torch) and smacked on the handle of the spanner wrench. Still no cigar. And I had to lodge a crowbar in one of the slots of the drive plate and wedge that against the way of the lathe to prevent the spindle from turning. I have exhausted my vocabulary of naughty words and still, the retaining ring refuses to succumb to my efforts. Any suggestions?
Hi Gordon. Sorry it took me so long to get to you on this. I'm sure you've gotten it loose by now, but just in case... Put the lathe in its lowest speed. Make sure you are turning the ring in the correct direction. It is captured on the spindle and threading onto the chuck, not the other way around. This means the spanner wrench you use will get turned away from the front of the machine when loosening. The ring does double duty by retaining the chuck on the taper and driving it off the taper as well. A cheater bar on the end of the spanner is preferable to smacking it with your biggest thwacking device. Alternating heat and penetrating oil will get it eventually. I really like Kroil since the smell is reminiscent of the finest $2.00 colognes. Rolling into the club with Kroil wafting off your duds WILL get you laid. I hope this helps, even if it is 4 months late.
Pretty good video! Concise, but good coverage. It would be nice to cover ER collets, as well, since they are becoming more common, all over. Looking for the first time at your channel, I noticed that you did dedicate a video to ER collets :-)
Stuart: Dead centres fit into the spindle end (they do not move relative to the work), they are usually soft (to allow them to be trued) . Live centres fit in the tail stock they are usually hardened and can have bearings to reduce friction (called a revolving centre) Revolving centres are live centres but not because they revolve but because they are used in the tailstock!
I think this might be another instance of different nomenclature for different parts of the world, because that dead center I showed in the video could be either a dead or live center depending on where it is placed in the machine. Before accurate roller bearings, dead (solid) centers were the only thing available. If they were placed in the tailstock they were called a dead center because they did not revolve. They were lubricated liberally with white lead to keep them from galling the center hole in the part, which would cause location problems if it occurred. If the center was put in the headstock however, it was called the live center because it rotated with the work. Of course, when revolving centers came along, manufacturers and machinists started calling them live centers to distinguish them from their solid cousins and the use of the term live center for a solid center mounted in the headstock fell into the scrap heap of history and is now only brought up occasionally on internet discussions. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro I still have 2 cans of white lead, although I refer to it as gold paste these days, because it's basically worth it's weight in gold. Rare as hens teeth now. 😏
For turning between centers 4:52, what if the 3 jaw chuck holding the dead center has some error, e.g., 0.2 mm? I think the dead center is then off center and the piece starts to turn around another point instead of the center drilled point (probably leading to a taper). Am I correct or did I miss something?
Much appreciated painless lecture , your knowledge sharing is polished even though repeating yourself everyday for the masses can't be easy . Might not of put my hand up throughout l think , no l am mistaken . The dead centre you said can be used for turning between centres , does it also need shaving ? Yes those mutts are cute but the winner would be for the longest non barking period followed by not starring at you for hours begging for food . Lucky you seem patient by nature , got to feed the cat now . Thnks again
I have not done one yet. I think I promised someone I would about 2 years ago and haven't done it yet. As my grandpa used to say, "If a man says he's going to do something, he'll do it. You don't have to remind him every 6 months."
Recently bought a cheap old 12 x 36 lathe built in 1937. It has dinky 3 and 4 jaw chucks that look like junk. What diameter chucks are fully useable on a 12" lathe? Thanks. I like your video style and content so I just subscribed.
Hi Mark. I use a 6" 3-jaw and an 8" 4-jaw. I'm sure you can use a 10" chuck, but it looks weird, like a puppy that hasn't grown enough to match the size of its head yet. They're also heavy and if you have the chuck jaws extending beyond the body of the chuck you're going to start having clearance issues with the ways. If you don't specifically need that size for a job, I wouldn't put yourself through the hassle.
Stuart, Could you comment on the pros and cons of a 3 vs 6 jaw chuck. I imagine the 6 jaw would grip better, but because of more contact points, are you going to have less repeatability if the stock is not perfectly round?
6 jaw chucks are less likely to crush a hollow part than a 3 jaw because they spread the load out around the circumference of the part. I think the surface contact is actually a bit of a wash though. The jaws on a 6 jaw are necessarily a good bit sharper. I also find it more difficult to get a measuring tool between the jaws on parts smaller than 3/4" or 20mm. They are also heavier than the same size 3 jaw. Not by much, but enough that I'd rather lift the 3 jaw. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
I would add that the 2/3/4/6 jaw scroll chucks or the collet type chucks are not intended to grip rough or out of symmetric stock! That is the job of the independent jaw chucks and face plates. If you do chuck rough black steel or an asymmetric job in a scroll chuck it just might move or become a missile!
Stuart, good info, thanks. I have a question: I have a 10 x 22 bench top lathe with a spindle bore of 25 mm and a spindle thread of 1.75” x 8 pitch. I would like to buy a collect chuck for this machine but can not find one. Perhaps the spindle size is too small for a collect chuck using a 5c collect. Any ideas ? Thanks, Curt Kemp
You can find one like mine on Amazon and other retailers by searching for "5C collet chuck". You will want to get a plain back chuck, which is one that you can fit to any back plate. Then get or make a back plate that fits your spindle, install it on your spindle, and machine it true on the face and turn a boss that fits snugly into the back of the chuck. This will ensure good concentricity. Threaded spindles do not locate the chuck very repeatably, especially radially, so if you swap chucks often you will probably want to make that boss a bit undersized so you can loosen the mounting bolts and bump the chuck back to concentric again whenever you put it back on. Just don't forget to tighten them up again! I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Stuart de Haro ... I have not been able to find a 5C collect chuck that comes with a 1-3/4 x 8 internal threaded backer plate that I could mount on the lathe and machine the face and shoulder to fit the chuck so it is concentric. Specifically, can you suggest a supplier I can try ? Thx
You'll have to buy them separately. If you can't find a back plate, you can always make one. The first step to that is making a VERY accurate copy of your spindle thread. Try to absolutely nail the dimensions, especially the pitch diameter. Don't go off of textbook dimensions for the thread either, measure your actual spindle thread and reproduce it. You're going to use that copy to test the fit of your threads so you don't have to remove it from the machine. Once you have you internal threads cut, then just slap the thing on your spindle and machine it to fit the chuck. Easy peasy lemon squeezy, Bob's your uncle, bippity boppity boop boop be doop. Let me know if you've got any other questions.
It's my job, although TH-cam is a hobby. I'm the foreman of one of the shops at the University of Illinois and I teach machining at my local community college. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!! I am getting back into running a lathe at home after not running one for 20+ years. This was the very basic refresher I needed.
fantastic video......thank you, Paul in Florida
Thanks Stuart, I am already subscribed so throw another vote for Chacho. Thanks for the lessons you send us.
One of, if not the best tutorial on the subject.
If you need an idea for another video, I don’t think anyone has touched on the subject of tool post angle when turning and facing. It might be second nature to the experienced machinist but very confusing for people starting out.
Good run through.
If i might add a little personal experience, back in woodwork class at school, a long time ago before the internet, global warming or even colour tv, i was undoing a screw on chuck on a wood lathe. When it got to the end of the thread it dropped and as i was using two hands to undo guess what happened, yup a black finger nail. I got kudos there though, apparently the last guy to do it swore a lot before fainting. I was then told to hold the chuck from above and unscrew it by turning the spindle so you are never surprised when the thread ends. OK not always possible on a metal lathe but the principle holds, never have your hand under the chuck when removing it.
As for which is cutest, my garden Badgers beat your dogs any day, take a look if you haven't seen them on youtube already.
ATB
c
Brilliant informative video
I've been subscribed since nearly the beginning of your posting videos
That being said, sure I'll hit the 'like button', but that's not a vote for Iggy, sadly as that's a heckuva handsome dog
I have to vote for Chotcho because older dogs deserve more appreciation than they get, may Chotcho have many more years ahead 👍
Sadly, he has been having a lot of trouble lately. He's been deaf for about a year or so and has started having a lot of trouble seeing recently. Other than that he's still pretty spry on walks and takes his duties of peeing on the entire neighborhood very seriously.
@@StuartdeHaro
I'm glad to hear that he takes his duties seriously, too many 'youngsters' these days could learn a thing or two from the wisdom of the previous generations 👍
Fantastic and clear education. Thank you
Stuart, I purchased a junkyard lathe and have been attempting to restore it to a usable condition. The mounting is an L-1 and there is a drive plate and center currently mounted. I need to loosen the retaining ring so I can remove the drive plate and center. First off I need to tell you that there are no engaged gears on the outboard headstock of the lathe. Even at that, I am not a real fan of trying to free mechanisms against teeth of gears. So, I have sprayed penetrating fluid until the cows came home and that is serious as I live in the heart of a very large city. I have a spanner wrench and torqued it with a cheater pipe. No cigar. . . I have even heated up the ring (with a Mapp gas torch) and smacked on the handle of the spanner wrench. Still no cigar. And I had to lodge a crowbar in one of the slots of the drive plate and wedge that against the way of the lathe to prevent the spindle from turning. I have exhausted my vocabulary of naughty words and still, the retaining ring refuses to succumb to my efforts. Any suggestions?
Hi Gordon. Sorry it took me so long to get to you on this. I'm sure you've gotten it loose by now, but just in case...
Put the lathe in its lowest speed. Make sure you are turning the ring in the correct direction. It is captured on the spindle and threading onto the chuck, not the other way around. This means the spanner wrench you use will get turned away from the front of the machine when loosening. The ring does double duty by retaining the chuck on the taper and driving it off the taper as well. A cheater bar on the end of the spanner is preferable to smacking it with your biggest thwacking device. Alternating heat and penetrating oil will get it eventually. I really like Kroil since the smell is reminiscent of the finest $2.00 colognes. Rolling into the club with Kroil wafting off your duds WILL get you laid. I hope this helps, even if it is 4 months late.
Crystal clear thank you always for your awesome videos.❤️
Pretty good video! Concise, but good coverage. It would be nice to cover ER collets, as well, since they are becoming more common, all over.
Looking for the first time at your channel, I noticed that you did dedicate a video to ER collets :-)
I didn't know the benefits of turning between centers. Thanks for the knowledge!
From India . Love your video , very informative
Nice video. Well explained
Very clear and concise, quality work, thank you.
Great video
Stuart:
Dead centres fit into the spindle end (they do not move relative to the work), they are usually soft (to allow them to be trued) .
Live centres fit in the tail stock they are usually hardened and can have bearings to reduce friction (called a revolving centre)
Revolving centres are live centres but not because they revolve but because they are used in the tailstock!
I think this might be another instance of different nomenclature for different parts of the world, because that dead center I showed in the video could be either a dead or live center depending on where it is placed in the machine. Before accurate roller bearings, dead (solid) centers were the only thing available. If they were placed in the tailstock they were called a dead center because they did not revolve. They were lubricated liberally with white lead to keep them from galling the center hole in the part, which would cause location problems if it occurred. If the center was put in the headstock however, it was called the live center because it rotated with the work.
Of course, when revolving centers came along, manufacturers and machinists started calling them live centers to distinguish them from their solid cousins and the use of the term live center for a solid center mounted in the headstock fell into the scrap heap of history and is now only brought up occasionally on internet discussions. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro I still have 2 cans of white lead, although I refer to it as gold paste these days, because it's basically worth it's weight in gold. Rare as hens teeth now. 😏
@@StuartdeHaro that's how it is, for older folks, here too.
Great video, thanks. I think we have the same lathe 👍
Iggy is the cutest
Nice
👍👍😎👍👍
For turning between centers 4:52, what if the 3 jaw chuck holding the dead center has some error, e.g., 0.2 mm? I think the dead center is then off center and the piece starts to turn around another point instead of the center drilled point (probably leading to a taper). Am I correct or did I miss something?
If you do a cleanup cut on the point of the center you're guaranteed to have perfect concentricity on the point. I demonstrate that starting at 6:23
Much appreciated painless lecture , your knowledge sharing is polished even though repeating yourself everyday for the masses can't be easy . Might not of put my hand up throughout l think , no l am mistaken . The dead centre you said can be used for turning between centres , does it also need shaving ? Yes those mutts are cute but the winner would be for the longest non barking period followed by not starring at you for hours begging for food . Lucky you seem patient by nature , got to feed the cat now . Thnks again
Iggy definitely loses then. She barks every time my son moves by more than a millimeter and can smell a French fry from outer space.
Great video. Thx!
I like your channel:)
Hi did you do a video on buying a lathe. I am 70 years old am just starting out. Looking for a mill and a lathe
I have not done one yet. I think I promised someone I would about 2 years ago and haven't done it yet. As my grandpa used to say, "If a man says he's going to do something, he'll do it. You don't have to remind him every 6 months."
Recently bought a cheap old 12 x 36 lathe built in 1937. It has dinky 3 and 4 jaw chucks that look like junk. What diameter chucks are fully useable on a 12" lathe? Thanks. I like your video style and content so I just subscribed.
Hi Mark. I use a 6" 3-jaw and an 8" 4-jaw. I'm sure you can use a 10" chuck, but it looks weird, like a puppy that hasn't grown enough to match the size of its head yet. They're also heavy and if you have the chuck jaws extending beyond the body of the chuck you're going to start having clearance issues with the ways. If you don't specifically need that size for a job, I wouldn't put yourself through the hassle.
Hello from iraq well done
Hey Stu what kind of lathe is that it looks like mine and I'm trying to find a manual
It's a 12 x 36 Enco. I have the manual around someplace, but I gotta warn you, it's pretty unreadable.
Stuart, Could you comment on the pros and cons of a 3 vs 6 jaw chuck. I imagine the 6 jaw would grip better, but because of more contact points, are you going to have less repeatability if the stock is not perfectly round?
6 jaw chucks are less likely to crush a hollow part than a 3 jaw because they spread the load out around the circumference of the part. I think the surface contact is actually a bit of a wash though. The jaws on a 6 jaw are necessarily a good bit sharper. I also find it more difficult to get a measuring tool between the jaws on parts smaller than 3/4" or 20mm. They are also heavier than the same size 3 jaw. Not by much, but enough that I'd rather lift the 3 jaw. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks. I am really enjoying your videos.
I would add that the 2/3/4/6 jaw scroll chucks or the collet type chucks are not intended to grip rough or out of symmetric stock!
That is the job of the independent jaw chucks and face plates.
If you do chuck rough black steel or an asymmetric job in a scroll chuck it just might move or become a missile!
Great vid Stu. And Iggy wants me dead.
She does, but to be fair, she wants everyone dead.
It's a tie breaker. 😁
Stuart, good info, thanks. I have a question: I have a 10 x 22 bench top lathe with a spindle bore of 25 mm and a spindle thread of 1.75” x 8 pitch. I would like to buy a collect chuck for this machine but can not find one. Perhaps the spindle size is too small for a collect chuck using a 5c collect. Any ideas ?
Thanks, Curt Kemp
You can find one like mine on Amazon and other retailers by searching for "5C collet chuck". You will want to get a plain back chuck, which is one that you can fit to any back plate. Then get or make a back plate that fits your spindle, install it on your spindle, and machine it true on the face and turn a boss that fits snugly into the back of the chuck. This will ensure good concentricity. Threaded spindles do not locate the chuck very repeatably, especially radially, so if you swap chucks often you will probably want to make that boss a bit undersized so you can loosen the mounting bolts and bump the chuck back to concentric again whenever you put it back on. Just don't forget to tighten them up again! I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Stuart de Haro ... I have not been able to find a 5C collect chuck that comes with a 1-3/4 x 8 internal threaded backer plate that I could mount on the lathe and machine the face and shoulder to fit the chuck so it is concentric. Specifically, can you suggest a supplier I can try ? Thx
You'll have to buy them separately. If you can't find a back plate, you can always make one. The first step to that is making a VERY accurate copy of your spindle thread. Try to absolutely nail the dimensions, especially the pitch diameter. Don't go off of textbook dimensions for the thread either, measure your actual spindle thread and reproduce it. You're going to use that copy to test the fit of your threads so you don't have to remove it from the machine. Once you have you internal threads cut, then just slap the thing on your spindle and machine it to fit the chuck. Easy peasy lemon squeezy, Bob's your uncle, bippity boppity boop boop be doop. Let me know if you've got any other questions.
chacho is the cuter because he looks like my Jake
Are you a hobby guy or is this you job
It's my job, although TH-cam is a hobby. I'm the foreman of one of the shops at the University of Illinois and I teach machining at my local community college. Thanks for watching!
Now I don’t know what to do, I wanna like, and subscribe but I’m a cat man 😳