Thank you for another video Guy. I can attest that Guy will take his time and help anyone with more questions about whatever pest you are trying to eliminate . Guy is the best. Thank you again for all your help.
Thanks Chris. You caught me working again. You have Formosan termites where you live, so you were very smart to treat with the granules to prevent the problem. These guys are easy to prevent, but a real pain to eliminate. Well done.
Thank you Guy for your time and efforts of sharing valuable video content to help homeowners treat their homes as inexpensively as possible. I know your solutions work because we treated my mom's rental property that was infested with german roaches and I went through you to resolve it. Very recently my tenant sent me a video of the hole the termites went through in the bathroom of the house. I have just ordered the Taurus SC and Termidor Foam to treat my rental property, and am probably going to go ahead and order the moisture meter as well. I truly appreciate your good advice and will be using it diligently now that I know how to. I certainly do not want to hire a pest control company to pay thousands of dollars to resolve this issue.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Please make sure of the species before you treat. Different species need to be treated differently. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species, then get back to me and I may be able to guide you further. You know that I am always happy to help. Be well Veronica. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Hi Guy, been watching your videos for the last few days. Firstly let me appreciate for the kind of support you are providing to viewers 😊. I am from Kerala, India, now let me explain. Two years ago we had first experience of termite in our office and damaged panelling, wall papers and some minor damages to one door and window frame. We used repellent chemical to control it, and demolished damaged panels including celing. Last month we found some serious infection in the same office, but some of the other areas. I used repellent chemical and also called a pest control agency. After inspection they recommended drilling around the foundation both inside and outside wall to control termites. They applied non repellent liquid chemical, Bayer Premise, ( Imidacloprid ) along the foundation walls. Also applied Bayer Ajenda mixed with diesel in the wood panelling, celing and flooring. After that I could see few live termites here and there. For the last three weeks no live insects or symptoms of termites. Do you think I am safe for now. Any further action required, monitoring, baiting. From your videos I now recognise it was Formosan Termite , since it damaged cealing inside the building. Thank you.
I'm sure that the pest controller probably explained that you should never use a repellent pesticide to treat termites. That just makes them move to a different area of the building. You always need to use nonrepellent pesticides and Premise II is a good one. Bayer Agenda is also a good termiticide, but it should never be mixed with diesel fuel. That is a terrible idea, and I cannot believe that it's even legal there. Agenda is water based and will not mix well with diesel. Also, diesel is flammable, so if you apply it to wood, you are creating a fire hazard. If there is a fire, this may greatly reduce the time you have to exit the building and it could result in unnecessary deaths. It's the sort of thing people here go to jail over. If the termites are Formosan, then they should be treated as I show in my video. The right way to do it is to trench around the entire building and then look for cartons in the structure. Treating the visible wood is not sufficient. You must use a moisture meter and a borescope to search for cartons. When a carton is discovered, the wall covering should be removed to expose the carton and then the carton should be removed. While it is possible that the treatment done by the pest controller will work, it is far from a sure thing because it was not done correctly. Sometimes you can do this sort of spot treatment and it will work, but you need to inspect every month for activity. Formosan termites work fast, so keep inspecting for at least a year. If you see any termites after 12 weeks, then the treatment most likely did not work. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m glad you said those boundary lines don’t necessarily mean you’re in the clear. As my personal example, I had drywood termites and I’m in the orange area, and not in the red area.
The problem is that it is very hard to figure out exactly where the line is. I had to use a bit of Kentucky windage. All I could do was research places where drywood termites were reported, but I do not have access to every incident. In rare cases I have seen drywood termites in areas that are way too far north for them. This can happen sometimes when someone brings a piece of wooden furniture from an infested area to their home that is out of the zone where we would expect to see them. Most of the time, they will not survive long because it is too cold or there is not enough humidity all year long, but if they are close to the line, then they may actually spread the infestation to others and the line moves. Also, these guys are always pushing the boundaries and trying to get as far north as possible. So, it is very possible that I got the line wrong in some places. Hopefully, I got it reasonably close though. By the way, if you had drywood termites, then your neighbors probably have them too. Since they swarm every year, there is almost a 100% chance that you will get reinfested within a year after you fumigate. That is because the gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever. Drywood termites need 4 to 7 years to develop a gallery to the point where they can swarm, so most people do not realize that they have been reinfested for several years. The termites are still eating though. To prevent a reinfestation, you need to do a preventative treatment every 60 days. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. In the video I suggest doing it every 90 days, but I am rethinking that now. While the pesticide does last 90 days, it is not as potent in the last 30 days as it is in the first 30 days, so I have now decided not to take chances. Fumigation is the only way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation. The preventative treatment needs to be started before the fumigation is done because you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
First off, thank you very much for these videos. When you are on a fixed income having a pest control company come in to treat for termites is impossible, if you want to continue eating regularly. Two an a half years ago I had termites in my walls. I think they were regular subterranean termites. I could hear a tiny knocking sound at night and pinholes appeared in the drywall on the inside of an outer wall. Frass was beneath them. I found several mud tubes running up my slab foundation in the area where the termites were on the inside. I trenched and used Dominion (imidacloprid) per the instructions on the bottle. Then I squirted some of the solution into the pinholes using a syringe with a fine needle, and filled the holes with drywall spackling. I've seen no sign of termites since. However, I recently found termites under an old landscape timber in a flowerbed that is about 10 feet from my house. I spot treated the area. Should I repeat the house treatment just to be safe?
Thank you for reaching out to me. You did not tell me where you live, and location does matter. As a general rule though, the first thing you should do is check the house to see if you have an infestation going on of subterranean termites. What you want to do is check for mud tubes. Most of the time, you will find them around the outside of the house coming up from the ground, but you may also find them in the crawl space and sometimes in the attic as well. If you do not see any mud tubes, then you should treat that landscape log. You indicated that you already did that, but you did not tell me how you did it. For it to work, it needs to be done correctly. The best way to do it, is to roll over the landscape log and remove a couple of inches of soil underneath it and treat with Taurus SC, mixed 0.8 oz per gallon. Just soak the area under the log really well with it, fill the dirt back in, and soak that really well too. Then simply replace the landscape log back where it was. The area you dig out should be about 6 in wider in all directions than the footprint of the landscape log. This way, the termites will have no choice but to pass through the termiticide on their way to and from the landscape log. This treatment will most likely kill off the entire colony. I will give you a link to the product. You can apply it with a pump up tank sprayer or you can simply use a watering can like you would use to water flowers. If you did the trenching correctly, you should be good for another couple of years at least, so I wouldn't anticipate that you will find any mud tubes around the house, but it would be wise to check. Still, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video. Please let me know if you are in the red or orange area on the map. If you aren't, then you are good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
Thank you for your clear and calm delivery as I'm frantiic at having identified termites in my ceiling by the sound they are making. Can you please let me know what to do. Thank you.
The first thing you need to do is to make sure that the problem is termites and not something else. There are several reasons for noise in the ceiling. This could also be carpenter ants or even rodents. So, start with an inspection of the entire building. Walk around the outside and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground. You may also find them in the eves. If you have a crawlspace, then go under there and look for mud tubes. If you find mud tubes, then you do have termites. Otherwise, this may be something different. If you are seeing large ants around, then you may have carpenter ants. If you are not seeing any of that sort of thing, then this could be a rodent problem. If you are certain that you have termites, then it is important to identify the species, because different species get treated differently. It's not hard to do. Just watch my video on how to identify termite species. I walk you right through it. Please get back to me after you inspect, and I will explain exactly what you need to do. Be well Natalie. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Great videos! What is your recommendation for old pier and beam foundation farmhouse. Its is in very sandy soil making it easy to dig but I wondered about the piers under the house. It’s is a weekend place built in early 1900’s. I also have had issues with wood stored in our barn nearby.
The treatment is the same for pier homes, except you need to trench around each pier. Inspect the wood in the barn for termites. If they are there, I can advise you on how to treat them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I appreciate all of your videos! They are truly helpful and helped with eliminating all my fire ants! I recently went away for about two month and came home found tons (hundreds) of beetles crawling on attics and some on curtains living room etc. it’s a rare topic but are they harmful to wood like termites? And would you recommend a specific way to get rid of them? They are indoor so I cannot use termidor. I also have a picture if I can send to you. Thanks a lot!
Okay. That is definitely on the weird side. You can send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. They are probably not wood destroying, but they do need to go. Let's see if we can send them packing. First though, I need to see what they are. Try to get a close-up photo of one of them that is very well in focus. I need to see its back and head. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I honestly don't know, but that would be polluting the environment. I suppose it may get them to change direction, but they could just go under it and find a crack or crevice into the foundation. I have never seen it done. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you for this video! We have formosan termites in the attic/ceiling. We had a leak in the roof last year, the leak was repaired and the roof replaced. However, we discovered the termites in the same area have eating the crown molding in our living room. We had the perimiter trenched and treated last year with termidor, and the peat control people returned to treat the crown molding and an area under the bathroom tub where they suspect they are coming in? They report a carton under the tub? They did not recommend tenting and fumigating the house? What is the best way to get rid of these formosan termites at this time
Unfortunately, you are probably not going to like the answer to this question because it's expensive. I am so sorry, but that carton needs to be removed. Depending upon the way the house is constructed, you may be able to gain access to under the tub from an adjoining wall. I recommend enlisting the services or a carpenter or handyman to try and gain access to the carton. The entire carton must be removed, or these guys are probably going to go on eating. It would not surprise me if there are also cartons in the attic/ceiling. You must find those cartons and remove them as well. I would not rule out cartons in the walls that are not showing damage yet either. Pest control companies are notorious for not understanding Formosan termites and how to find and remove cartons. So, you should look for cartons yourself. This video will show you what cartons are and how to find them. Finally, pest control companies are often not good at properly trenching for Formosan termites. They often do not treat the backfill dirt. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Formosan termites are formidable. There is no way of knowing how they did the trenching, so the best you can do is look for cartons and then inspect the building for mud tubes every month going forward for at least a year. After that, inspect at least annually. I will give you a link to my video on how to inspect for termites. It's not that hard to do. I am so sorry that his happened to you and I feel really bad that I had to share this kind of news with you. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but I have no incentive to mislead you because I do this stuff for free. So, with me, you always get the truth. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. Be well Susan. Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for your reply. I hope your travels are relaxing and wonderful. We purchased the general tools to view and detect moisture. Not seeing anything live termites with the camera nor did I see a carton? UGH we want to remove the crown molding but its only been two weeks since pest people sprayed with termidor. Maybe we will be able to determine the carton after we remove the crown molding.
@@susanbowen8659 I only have a minute before I need to get packing, but you may be correct. Oftentimes when you remove that crown molding you will see some very scary activity behind it. That Termidor treatment was a Hail Mary Pass at best. I don't mean to scare you, but I have seen some stuff straight out of a Stephen King novel behind walls where Formosan termites were operating. I hope this is not the case with you, but don't be too surprised if you remove that crown molding to find that there isn't much left of it. I am hoping that you get lucky. It is always possible that the damage was limited in your case, but I would not just assume that to be the case. Formosan termites are very destructive, and they can work alarmingly fast. I think removing that crown molding is a very good idea. I hope that helps. Be well Susan.
Hi guy! Your videos have been amazingly helpful. Found eastern subterranean termites near my house a couple weeks ago, then tonight a swarm from a neighbor of formosan's started gathering around the light on my front porch. After your education, I'm ready to trench my house and watch for signs of wall cartons. I have a question though: Is it possible and if so, how often, will Formosan swarmers establish a new colony directly as a carton in your home? I.E. - if i saw swarmers today and believe they didn't originate from my house, and trench tomorrow, can i feel pretty safe that I will have prevented infestation? Or do i need to be alert that swarmers could be establishing a new colony directly in my house (having flown onto it) despite trenching? Thanks again for your excellent content! I'd feel pretty helpless without it
Formosan termites are subterranean, so they attack from the ground and not from the air. The swarmers will not create cartons in your home. They must attack from the ground, just like any other species of subterranean termites. After they get into your house, then the workers will begin to build these cartons. Trenching is an excellent way to prevent them. Please watch my video that explains the proper way to trench your house. I did cover it in the video you watched, but my video on trenching does a more in depth job of explaining it. I think it is well worth watching if you plan on trenching. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
I might hat terminates but my real problem are cockroaches. Living in Houston makes it so that every house has bugs of some sort. With all the pesticides and boric acid I have out helps but the keep showing up. I think they are coming out of the sink. I have a plug but they still show up. I just laid out cockroach bait and I keep spraying. These along with the termites, makes it challenging to stay ahead of these pests.
The roaches are not coming out of the drain. They are going into the sink drain to eat sludge and then they come back out, and you may think that they are getting in that way, but they aren't. Getting rid of German roaches is hard, but it can be done. I have the only video on TH-cam that can show you how to do it. I will give you a link to it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to eliminate German cockroaches: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video really helped me out. I have a question for you. I bought a property had signs of activity of termites. They had droppings and mod tups , but the mod tups were dried up and there was no termites visible in the mud, we still went with fumigating the home. Almost 2 years later, I see flying redhead termites outside my property. I also live in the red and orange part of your map
If you saw mud tubes, then these were not drywood termites. They were subterranean termites. Fumigation does not work for subterranean termites. You may have had both species. It is possible that the subterranean termites were treated by a neighbor and that took out the colony for you. This happens sometimes. If the termite swarmers you are seeing have a red head and a dark brown body, then they may be drywood termites. You should inspect your home for an infestation. I have a video on how to do that. Please let me know if you find any evidence of termite activity in your home and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
I got me some Taurus sc and it seems like it says on the label you can mix up to 1.25 oz per gal , is that correct ? Thanks , love your videos , very very informative 👍.
You could mix it that strong, but for most applications, you are fine mixing it at 0.8 oz per gallon of water. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
We have dug up trenches and followed your Taurus SC treatment exactly as you have described and explained. We wondered if adding spot treatments with the " fuse foam" witch contains both fipronil and Imidaclopid injected into some of the termite damaged areas where we see they've eaten already. Will this help them carry the poison back quicker to the underground nest? We've read that the use foam has soap added to make it foam but we'd also read that the soap kills the termites instantly. WE dont want then to die fast. We want them to bring the fipronil and im8daclopid death chemicals back to the colony to share with and finish all of them off right down to the queen. . Do you recommemd this spot treatment with the " fuse foam?" Or is a a bad idea? Thank you for sooo much information you've given to us "do it yourselfers ". We felt more confident with your assistance m education and knowledge you ve shared from your decades in the biz. ( Tampa, Florida home and formosan termites were detected in the scraped wood. No kick outs, no frass, But we can see some wrinkled and empty paint layers munched and damaged by formosans termites that were discovered after scraping the decorative trim on the exterior of the house. There has been no interior damage noticed but we ordered a moisture meter and bore scope and will check the house for moisture issues once it arrives. We've started making our Taurus SC treated cardboard bait stations now the trenching us complete. ) A huge Thanks for your no nonsense approach to our very scary formosan n8ghtmare.
I'm so sorry that you were dealing with Formosan termites. Since you live in Tampa, I thought you were going to tell me that you had drywood termites as well. Unfortunately, drywood termites are a serious problem in Tampa. If you have not done so already, you should begin to do a preventive treatment on your home to stop drywood termites. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. This is a generic video that covers a lot of pests, but it also works for drywood termites. Just skip the part about treating your yard because you only need to treat your house for drywood termites. That being said, it is not a bad idea to treat your yard as well to prevent a bunch of other pests. I'm glad you are buying the moisture meter and a borescope. You would be wise to investigate the slightest differences in the moisture meter reading with the borescope. Sometimes the carton is located on the wall that is farthest away from where you were testing. For example, if you are testing an exterior wall, the carton may be on the wall where the exterior siding is, instead of on the part of the wall with the drywall is. When the carton is that far away from the surface being tested, you may only get a very slight reading. Also keep in mind that it is very common to find cartons very near the ceiling. As for the Fuse Foam, I think it would be fine to use as a spot treatment. I prefer FiPro, but I don't see anything wrong with using Fuse. To spot treat, drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. No always, but this is generally the case. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Guy thanks a million. We already 9rder a sprayer and extra taurus AC to spray the soffit and facia but it will have to wait while tackle the formosan nightmare. Already trenched. But a gulky washer of rain. For two days ...has us wonder9ng if we will need to trench and treat again, it was dry for days after we did the trench work. The recent tropical storm brought in loads pf water. We noticed pools of water where we trenched last week. Hps8mce it already dried previously...will standing water effect our trench treatment. We have shady soiod and normally good drainage. Maybe our trench8ng disturbed the normal water flow? Anyway we will treat for the preve tion 9f dry wood. When the rain stops. And we'll also go up the wall 2 feet from the ground and two feet out as you shared in your videos. Currently we're making the laundry detergent container bait stations. We loaded up at a laundromat shallow dumpster to select the right size containers . WHat a terrific spot to get the supplies. . Pass that on in your next video. It s a great way to get the empty soap jugs fast . We have ppreciated every one of your videos weve viewed ( your mosquito treatment plan is on the " honey do list" expecially after all this rain) . Yyour no nonsense , explanations, directions with the considerate frugal approach has educated us and goven us the courage and confidence to do it ourselves. A huge THANK YOU for sharring your years of experince , tips, tricks and knowledge. YOU'RE a " GOOD as GOLD GUY " in our eyes. THANKS
@@donaldharvey2642 If it was dry for a couple of days after you trenched, then the pesticide already bonded with the soil, so you should be okay. You do need to search for cartons in the house though. The trench should take care of the main colony, but those cartons can go on doing a lot of damage for a long time, so do not underestimate them. If you see any deviation at all in the moisture meter, then check it out with the borescope. Check near the ceiling because they like to build cartons high up in the wall for some reason. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you, Guy, for your detailed info on how to deal with Formosan termites. I'm in northern California. I've been seeing some swarmers on the outside of my home near the lower vents on one side. I tried to ID what type of termite swarmers I have (they're light tan color). Hard to see the mandibles on them. Like you said it would be better to get a specimen from damaged wood. I wanted to clarify what you said in the video. If I find kick out holes and frass beneath inside the house, does it always mean that drywood termites are the problem in that spot. Or do Formosan termites also create kickout holes and Frass? Or do Formosan termites just kickout frass into the wall voids where we cannot see? The Amazon link to the borescope you recommend is no longer available. Can you recommend an alternative borescope on Amazon that meets your approval? Thanks!
Formosan termites create mud tubes, but not frass. Drywood termites create frass, but not mud tubes. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It shows what drywood termite frass looks like. Sometimes you will see some mud from Formosan termites, but that's not frass. You always know frass because it looks like tiny pellets and not like sand or sawdust. There is always a kick out hole just above where the frass is located. Both Formosan and drywood termites create exit holes, but that is not the same as kick out holes. They do look very similar though. If there is a kick out hole, then there is going to be frass under it. Please let me know if you have drywood termites and I will try to assist you with that. The problem with Amazon is that products are always being discontinued. I will give you a link to another borescope. This is one of the less expensive ones and I have not tried this particular scope. It looks good, but keep in mind that you usually get what you pay for. The reviews seem pretty good, so I would give it a try. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Borescope: www.amazon.com/Daxiongmao-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B0C3R381FC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=K8VKD3C9BFQQ&keywords=borescope+camera+with+light&qid=1694020288&sprefix=borescope%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-6#customerReviews
Great video. I'm going to purchase the moisture sensor. If I do find a carton, should I foam it first to kill off the colony and then remove it? Also, is it possible to have inactive cartons after treatment? Does the moisture sensor only detect active cartons since they are moist? I suspect an inactive carton would be dry.
Keep in mind that the moisture meter does not specifically detect cartons. The moisture meter detects moisture. There are other reasons why the moisture meter may show a higher reading, other than cartons. Also, it can sometimes be difficult to find all the cartons with the moisture meter because the carton may not be in contact with the drywall that you are testing. Therefore, you may only get a very slight reading that is higher than normal. So, any deviation in the reading, no matter how slight, should be investigated with the borescope. I think it is possible to run into a carton that is not active. However, I honestly do not know if an inactive carton will contain enough moisture to be detected by the moisture meter. It is unclear to me exactly how those cartons obtain and store the moisture that is needed for the termites. I have never been trained on that aspect of it, and there isn't a lot of information out there about it either. As best as I can tell, worker termites most likely obtain moisture from the environment and bring it back to the carton. The material that the carton is made of has the ability to hold moisture for some time, without additional moisture being added. In other words, it has moisture retaining properties. Theoretically, if the carton is inactive, then you would think that, eventually, it will dry out. However, I am unclear if this will happen, or how quickly it would happen. In any event, if you do not detect any moisture whatsoever, then you most likely would not explore further with the borescope. If you do detect moisture, and the borescope confirms the existence of a carton, then you would not really know if it was active or not, so you would need to remove it anyway. So, while that is an interesting scientific question, I don't know that obtaining a definitive answer to it serves any practical purpose. There are many pest controllers who either do not mess with the cartons at all, or they try to treat them without removing them. Personally, I think both of those approaches are inadequate, and I have seen cases where pest controllers have done this, and it resulted in serious damage to the building. Those cartons can remain healthy for some time, so in my judgment, those things need to be removed. Therefore, I would not waste time trying to treat one before I removed it. I think the best thing to do is to remove the drywall to gain access to the carton, and then remove the carton. I understand that this is expensive, but it is also expensive to repair the damage that is going to be done by these guys if the carton is not removed. Then, you still need to repair the damage after you remove the carton. So, my advice is to never mess with these guys. They are very destructive, so they need to go. The only sure-fire way to do that is to open up the wall and remove the carton. At least, that is the way it seems to me. I'm not saying it is not possible to be successful treating a carton without opening up the wall, but I think it's a bit like playing Russian roulette. It certainly is not a sure thing, and I don't know how you would ever tell if you were successful in killing that carton before observing more damage. If you do remove the wall covering to expose the carton, I would see no reason to treat it prior to removing it. However, I would treat the cartons outside before disposing of them in the trash. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your help. I plan to purchase the moisture meter and borescope in your video links. I certainly understand the urgency of removing the carton since Formosans are very destructive but also worried about the termites that will escape into other parts of the wall during the removal. Plus there would be other termites outside the carton that are foraging. Would they return to the carton area and be exposed to the fipronil treatment I would place after removing the carton?
@@mtbbiker6401 That's not something to be concerned about. Termites cannot survive without the carton. Any stragglers will die off after the carton is removed because they will no longer be able to obtain the moisture they need to survive. After you trench and remove the cartons, it's curtains for all of them. They won't survive very long after the carton is removed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Just found formosan swarmers coming in through the windows. I'm praying I have nothing in my walls and that the products will take care of the invaders in time. Thank you so much for uploading this video!!
@@GuysPestSolutions since they're coming through my windows, does that mean they're swarmers from a different colony not in my house? Or is it still likely I have a colony in my walls?
@@mycoffee2654 It depends. If you are seeing them outside, and they are really Formosan termites, then they may just be from a colony outside the house somewhere. Be careful though, because Formosan swarmers look a lot like drywood swarmers. If these are actually drywood swarmers, then you probably do have an infestation in the house. If you are seeing them inside the house, then you most likely do have an infestation, regardless of the species. Keep in mind that Formosan termites are subterranean, so the main colony would be in the ground somewhere. That means they are traveling to and from your house. However, this species also has the ability to build what we call "cartons" and your walls and other areas of the home. The termites in those cartons do not need to return to the ground. Formosan termites are very aggressive eaters and they can do a lot of damage very quickly, so you may want to get an inspection done. If these are actually drywood termites, then they do not colonize in the ground at all. They only colonize in your house. A good place for you to start is to watch my video on how to identify termite species. It is not as hard as you may think. I will give you a link to it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions i believe they are formosan. I trenched around my house and put taurus sc in it. I then used the moisture detector on my walls and ceiling and drilled and boroscoped everywhere I saw high moisture. I found no cartons in my house, even where there was high moisture. I didn't see any termites for about a week. Tonight, I found maybe 10 in my house. However, i found about 10 more enamored with my front porch light. I imagine that must mean the colony is outside and a few made it in. I used termidor on my drilled holes from the previous inspection I made. Is it reasonable to assume I don't have an infestation if the termites disappeared for a week and most of the termites are outside? If it's not reasonable to assume that, is a professional inspection my next step?
It worked!!! They're gone!!! I just had to follow your video and spray under my house as far as the sprayer could reach and that finished the problem! Thank you so much for your help!
I have not used a Walabot myself, but I have seen some mixed reviews on them. So, I cannot say with any certainty that this device will be helpful with finding cartons. I understand the the Walabot DIY 2 may have the ability to detect movement in walls, such as bugs. Again, I have not tried one and they are a bit pricey at about $200 on Amazon. I think it's certainly something you could try, but keep in mind that you are pioneering this a bit, so use your best judgement. If it works well for you, then please let me know. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I have mulch around house in planters. Have had subterranean termite problems in the past. Was told to remove the mulch but that would be a ton of work. Please advise. Thank you for the tutorials.
Were the termites Formosan? Please tell me where you live. Location matters a lot when it comes to termites. Was the house trenched in the past? If so, when was it done? Sometimes we can treat that mulch, but it depends. Please get back to me and I will do my best to give you good advice. Be well my friend.
Guy, I live in Guam and am pretty confident that I have Formosan Termites. These things are insidious and are persistent. Thankfully my house is built of concrete, so my affected areas are on one corner of the house. The damages are limited to door frames only. That corner of the house, the foundation is not as thick as the house is built on a slope, so I think they found their way through small cracks in the foundation. After ripping out 3 door frames on that corner of the house and treating those areas, I managed to get my hands on Taurus SC, it was difficult as it's not sold in Guam but EBAY is the best. My main concern is that my house has a 3 foot sidewalk all around it. Im worried that i wont get product close enough to the house to kill the colony. Im worried about drilling every 12 inches in concrete because there are plumbing pipes and sewage pipes under parts of the sidewalk. Would I be ok to just trench the peremeter of the entire sidewalk?
Treating directly next to the house is always best, but it should work just fine if you treat around the sidewalk. I have done that before with great success. Just make sure that these are actually Formosan termites and not drywood termites. You have both there. Try to obtain a specimen with a red head and compare it with the photo in the video. Also, keep in mind that Formosan termites like to attack high sometimes and could be in the attic. So, check for damages up there and make sure that they didn't build mud tubes up there to other parts of the house. Finally, make sure that you trench correctly. It is a good idea to watch my video on how to trench correctly. It gives you a much more detailed explanation on trenching than the video you just watched. Formosan termites are bad, so it's worth it to make sure that you are doing the best job possible with the trenching. If you want, you can send photos to me of the sides of you house, so that I can see the sidewalks. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Don't forget to do both sides of the driveway. You will get a full explanation of how everything works in the trenching video. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench correctly: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions thanks for all your help and confirming what I figured as far as species. Thanks for the added tips on treatment as this will save me thousands.
Thanks for the helpful video’s I’ve got a question about spiders repellent on the outside of the house and sheds. Is there a way to keep them away from lights and windows. Greetings John
That is actually a very easy problem to solve. I will give you a link to my video on how to take care of it. Just spray any areas where you don't want spiders. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Hello, Sir.. I found termite droppings in my kitchen cabinets and I "treated" with two different termite treatment from home Depot which it didn't work because dropping will come back so after searching I found Taurus SC and I treated all around like in the video and I also treated my cabinets with a syringe in the tiny little bitty holes I didn't see the dropping for couple months then later I saw and still see the droppings but in different of the cabinets.. my house it's on concrete blocks in the video you say that we have to treat around the blocks, do you have a video show how to underneath the house and around the blocks since it's kind of hard since there is not enough space.. And what the name of the foam to inject inside the wall making a whole threw the drywall sheetrock.. I like your videos and Thanks in advance.. Blessing
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like you have drywood termites. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are a problem. If you live in the red area on the map, then it is a fairly safe bet that you are looking at drywood termites. The only sure way to get rid of a drywood termite infestation is to put a tent around the entire house and fumigate. I do have a video on how to spot treat this yourself, but I do not recommend that you do it, unless you absolutely do not have the money to fumigate. If you decide to fumigate, then watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Prices vary wildly in this industry, so that video can save you a lot of money. Please let me know if you live outside of the red area on the map, because that means that I got it all wrong. I am just going by what you have already told me, which would suggest drywood termites. By the way, if you fumigate, you should know that the gas has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested immediately after the tent comes down. If you have drywood termites, then so do your neighbors. They swarm every year, so you will get them again within a year. You can prevent this by doing a preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days. I have a video on that as well and I will give you a link. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I wish I had better news for you. Also, I am sorry to recommend watching so many videos, but you really do need to educate yourself on this problem, so that you can make some smart decisions. Be well Teresa. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/w-d-xo.html Video on how to higher a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
There are some companies that will offer a heat treatment to kill termites, instead of using a fumigation treatment. That sounds good, but the concern I have is that, for this to work, all the cartons in the house must reach a temperature of 120° Fahrenheit for a minimum of 1 hour. Cartons are not a good conductor of heat. Compounding that problem is that there's also insulation in the attic and maybe the walls as well. It is the nature of insulation to prevent the transfer of heat. So, my question is, how do you know that the center of every carton in the house has reached a temperature of 120° Fahrenheit? If they fail to achieve this in just one carton, then it is not going to work. So, I know there are people doing it, but I have some misgivings about it. For that reason, if it were me, I would go with trenching and fumigation. I'm not saying heating won't work. All I'm saying is that I don't trust it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy I live in Florida in Formosan area. My home has brick facade. In addition to trenching with the termiticide do I need to drill into facade to get chemicals between bricks and interior walls or do you have another remedy? Thanks so much for your great videos!
The first thing you need to do is make sure that you have Formosan termites and not a more common species. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. If these guys turn out to be subterranean termites that are not Formosan, then all you need to do is trench. However, if they are Formosan termites, then you need to inspect the inside of the house for cartons, as I show in my video on how to eliminate Formosan termites. I do not think it would be necessary to treat behind the brick façade. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Deltamethrin is a fine pesticide, but not for termites. As with most pesticides, it works great, if you apply it correctly and use it in the correct form for the target pest. If you buy it in liquid form, it will work for wasps. Apply it to any surfaces where you don't want wasps to build nests. If you spray a nest with it, then the wasps will die within a day. It's not the cheapest way to do it, but it should work. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for the detailed reply. I was also wondering about tolerance to insecticide. Would you recommend switching insecticides to avoid this problem, for example deltamethrine in the spring and some other agent in the late summer or should I stick to delta if it gets the job done? At the moment planning to spray in middle of april and around august or september.
@@Gragon If you are talking about treating Formosan termites, then it's once and you are done. If you are talking about preventing Formosan termites, trenching lasts for at least 5 years, so you could trench ever 5 to 7 years or you can start using termite granules every year starting in year 6. I have a video on how to do that. If you are talking about preventing drywood termites, then please watch my video on the subject. You don't need to rotate products with termites. That is because you are wiping out the colony or immediately killing them, so they cannot become resistant to the pesticide. It is the same with some other kinds of bugs as well, so you need to know the species to know if the little guys will become resistant. I hope that helps. Video on how to treat termites with granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Sorry I shouldve been more specific. I understand the video is about termites but I was asking with regards to wasps. I want not to have wasps
@@Gragon Wasps will not become resistant to the pesticide. Any pesticide that has a good residual action, that is applied to a surface, will kill any wasps that land on it. If the pesticide is a repellent, then there is a good chance that the wasp will not even land on the surface and it will go elsewhere. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Sounds good. Let me know if you have any questions. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. Be well my friend.
I’ve noticed something eating my indoor laminate flooring along the back wall of my house. Could this be termites? In addition, on that same interior wall, several mud like tubes appeared on the paneling up about 6 ft. I scraped them off and they have not returned. I haven’t seen the actual bugs so I’m not sure what they are. I live in SE Texas included in the dark orange area of your map. Should I start the trenching process? And should I remove the paneling on that wall to inspect the drywall underneath? Or would it be more expedient to order one of those cameras? Last but not least, there is an add on enclosed patio (Wood) on the outside of the wall mentioned above which may be where the problems began. Since we are experiencing extremely hot and unseasonably dry weather, I’m thinking this is the ideal time to treat. Is that correct? What should I do about the flooring? Spray insecticide all up in the damaged area?
First, I am so sorry that I didn't get back to you sooner. For some reason I just got your question this morning. That happens sometimes with TH-cam, but I have no idea why. If you observed mud tubes, then there's a very good chance that the damage you are seeing is being caused by termites. It is also possible that the species involved are Formosan motion termites, but they could also be a more common species that is not as destructive. One thing is for sure though. You are not going to get rid of them just by removing a mud tube. They will have no problem finding another access point. All species of subterranean termites can be treated with trenching. Therefore, I recommend that you start with that. After you finish trenching, then you should look for signs of activity inside the house. That is to say, you should look for cartons in the walls and ceiling. The video you watched on Formosan termites will show you how to do this. Hopefully, you dodged a bullet and will not find any cartons in your home. It is very important to check to make sure though. The temperature outside doesn't make a lot of difference with regard to when you treat. You can spot treat the flooring by using a fipronil foam, but it is probably not necessary if you do the trenching. If you would like to spot treat the floor, you need to drill holes along the entire damaged area that are 4 inches apart and about halfway through the wood. They only need to be wide enough to allow the tip of the applicator can to enter. Usually that's about 1/8 of an inch. So you are only drilling very small holes. After the holes are drilled, you simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds, or until it is coming back out at you, or coming out one or more of the other holes that you drilled. Every hole should have foam either going into it or out of it. If you are not going to replace the flooring, then you may not want to be drilling holes in it for aesthetic reasons. Again, the trenching should take out all of the termites, unless you have cartons. If you have cartons, then you need to find them and eliminate them. Since your question was delayed by a couple of weeks, I recommend that you email me if you have further questions. The emails are never delayed. My email address is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I hope that helps. Be well Ginny. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Guy, do you have a video that will identify species by the leftover wings? I'm taking care of my parents empty house and last month discovered a few dozen wings grouped together right underneath a full size dusk to dawn light mounted in the eave of their detached garage. Wings on the pavement but no sign of the bug bodies. This in central Mobile County 10 miles north of Mobile and I believe is now lately an area that could get dry wood termites. I dont know when the house was last treated. My dad died in 2020 and mom live with my brother out of state. She's 93 and can't remember. House built in 1967 and treated with chlordane then. They had inspections in the past (post chlordane ban) but don't know if retreated with something else but I don't remember them having termites. I've read chlordane can last up to 50 years and beyond. There is no current company calling to come back and inspect, like with a contract. What would you do?
These are most likely drywood termites. These guys fly to your house, so the chlordane treatment will not affect them. You are not seeing the bodies because the wings fall off just before they enter the wood. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and inspect for frass. If you see frass, then you have your answer. The only way to treat them is to fumigate. If you have drywood termites, you should also watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say that. Very much appreciated. Always good to hear from a fellow pest controller. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com if I can ever be of assistance to you. I get pest controllers contacting me all the time to ask for advice on how to handle something that they have not run into before. I have been doing pest control since 1981, and I still get people showing me things that I have never seen. Just when you think you have seen it all, someone comes up with something really weird. I have run into a lot of stuff though, so let me know if you want to spitball some treatment options for something you are not familiar with. Now that I am assisting the entire world, I have seen some really strange things from other countries. It's fascinating, but it makes me very happy to be living in the US. Be well my friend and thank you so much for your support.
If you have Formosan termites, then you need to see if there are any cartons in the attic. You may find them anywhere, but they are often located between the ceiling joists, and often under the insulation. You need to check the entire house for cartons as well. It is probably a good idea to treat the entire attic with Bora-Care. This is not something that you need to do to get rid of Formosan termites, but it will render all the wood you treat permanently termite proof. You need to mix the Bora-Care 1 to 1 with water, in a 5 gallon bucket, using a drill and paint mixer attachment. They say that you need to use hot water to mix it, but cold water works just fine. After you have it mixed, pour it into a one gallon garden sprayer and simply spray all the wood in the attic. I will give you links to the product and the video I have to use it. Keep in mind that most of the termites are going to die as the result of trenching. If you remove all of the cartons as well, then those two things alone will kill off the entire infestation, so you really do not need to do the Bora-Care treatment. It would be more of an insurance policy, in case you miss a carton in the attic. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care video: th-cam.com/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/w-d-xo.html Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Hello Guy, where I live the water table in the wet winter months is often right up to a few inches below the surface of the soil. Would trenching for Formosa termites still be effective or would the water dissipate the termiticide too quickly?
Dig down 6 inches next to the house. If the hole fills with water, then you have a problem. In that event, I recommend treating with Termidor HE. With this product you only need to trench two inches deep and four inches wide. So, if a two inch deep hole does not fill with water, then this would be your solution. Dig down as deep as you can without hitting water and mix this product 1.6 oz per gallon. Be sure to treat the back fill dirt. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I suppose it depends on what product they used to do the treatment, and if they did it correctly. Assuming that they did the job correctly, in the area they treated should last 5 to 10 years. If they only treated under the porch and the garage, then all they did is a spot treatment, and the termites can still attack from another direction. The entire perimeter of the house should have been treated. Sometimes pest controllers offer to do these spot treatments because it's a lot cheaper than treating the entire perimeter of the house, but it is far from a sure thing. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I thought I had just subterranean but it would seem I was incorrect and they are Formosan. I previously trenched with the granules but that was a couple months ago and they are back. I retrenched the area again and I will probably redo it as I rewatched this video and will do 10 foot sections (with taurus SC). I bought the gear to visually check my walls but my fear is that they are actually living in my wood flooring. Thats how i originally spotted them and now I continue to find them there. I started treating a lot of wood and thats why I thought I killed them all but they are back. Is it possible that instead of the walls they are able to live in the flooring? I am thinking I might need to just fumigate unfortunately if that is the case. Thanks so much for all of the help so far!
Formosan termites will definitely eat your wood floors, but they cannot build cartons inside the wood. You will always find the cartons either in the wall voids, or the ceiling voids. If you have a basement or a crawl space, you may find them down there as well. You may also find them in the attic. The termites that eating your floor are either returning to the ground, or they are returning to one of the cartons. The majority of the termites return to the ground. That is because Formosan termite colonies are really large, and it takes a lot of workers to bring food back to the main colony. Therefore, the very first thing you need to do is trench using Taurus SA, as described in the video. Unfortunately, the granules do not work on Formosan termites. After you finish the trenching, then you need to find the cartons. This is not always easy to do, so you need to check out every area where you find moisture with a borescope. Look very carefully because sometimes those cartons can be very thin and hard to spot. Also look for discoloration of the paint, sagging paint, tiny holes in the wall, and that sort of thing. These are all good indications that there could be a carton behind the wall or ceiling. If you like, you can treat the floor with a fipronil foam. This contains the same active ingredient as the Taurus SC, but the foam will expand to several times its original size, so it will get into a lot of spaces that a liquid cannot reach. Just shoot the foam into any openings in the flooring that were created by the termites. You should shoot the foam in for at least 5 seconds in each area that you treat, or until the foam is coming back out at you. Regardless of where the termites are returning, they will be bringing this material back to either the main colony or the carton. So, this will help ensure that you kill the ones that are attacking your floor. I will give you a link to the product. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Greetings, Guy! Is there a way to differentiate between eastern subterranean and Formosan subterranean termites by looking at the damaged wood? I see a beam in my crawlspace that has active significant damage. The damage is so severe that I don't want to poke around to find live ones. There are a lot of pellet-like droppings on the concrete pier that the beam should be sitting on. It was once upon a time, but a lot of the wood structure doesn't exist anymore. ... More info: a neighbor's leaking & overflowing water management system has been flooding my crawlspace unbeknownst to me. My yard kept getting flooded, but I didn't know about the crawlspace. Its apparently been very wet because I found wood-destroying fungus, mold, wood rot, and evidence of termites. I've been removing insulation & have added a dehumidifier. I still can't get the neighbor to fix the leaks. I've been trying since 2020! ..... If I were to treat for Formosan, would that kill possible eastern subs too fast to kill their colony? Thank you for all you do! You're wonderful & much appreciated!
There is a difference between the way Formosan termites eat wood and other subterranean termites eat wood, but it is probably difficult to tell for the untrained eye. Formosan termites have a kind of tunnel pattern where they create long winding tunnels through the wood, and they leave a thin shell of untouched wood on the outside. Eastern subterranean termites on the other hand have a more random pattern and they do not create as many tunnels. I think most professionals would have a hard time nailing down the species just by looking at these patterns, but it can be done. There are more telltale signs that you have Formosan termites though. For one thing, they seem to create a lot more mud tubes than other subterranean termites. They also create them in places we would not normally expect to find mud tubes. For example, you may find mud tubes on the outside of the home in the eaves. Formosan termites also build cartons in the walls, which allows them to remain in the walls without returning to the ground. They do not limit building these things just to the inside of the walls though. You can find cartons outside of the walls as well, and they can be located under the floors, in the attic, and sometimes right outside the drywall. I have seen them on a number of occasions coming out of the ceilings. The best way though to identify them is to obtain a specimen with a redhead. Do not be afraid to dig into damaged wood because it is not supporting anything anyway. After the termites have done their damage, it's pretty much game over for the structural support of that wood. You can also look for the mud tubes. If you find one, then you can break it open and obtain the specimen that way. Keep in mind that Formosan termites are very destructive and can destroy your home in a matter of months. Therefore, it is very important to determine the species. It sounds like you already watched my video on how to do that, but just in case you didn't, I'll give you a link to it. The treatment for Formosan termites and other species of subterranean termites is the same, except that for Formosan termites you need to go look for the cartons. For most species, you just need to trench around the exterior of the house and you're good to go. However, if you have mud tubes under the crawl space that are in contact with the ground, then you need to trench under there as well. The thing that disturbs me though are those pellet-like droppings that you are talking about. Please take a close look at them and see if they are actually shaped like little pellets, or if they look more like sawdust or mud. Subterranean termites do not create pellet droppings. Distinctly shaped pellet droppings would be consistent with drywood termites. The level of damage you are reporting is not typical of drywood termites, but the pellet droppings are. This is another reason why you need to obtain a specimen with a red head. I hope that helps. Be will my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
I was in the pest control industry in the 90’s. We were warning people back then about the dangers of Formosan and I have never heard of anyone having them. Do people get them, I’m sure they do but I’ve still never heard of anyone.
Yes, they are real and people do get them. They are really nasty too. They like warm weather though, so you don't see them in the north. They exist mostly in southern coastal states, California, and Hawaii. If you watch my video on how to identify termites species, you will find a map in that video that shows areas of the US where they are a problem. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termites species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
I have lived in a south Florida home for 20 years. No termite activity. But home has holes drilled every foot or so in slab all the way around the house. Any thoughts and should I take advantage and inject holes with termite system?
It seems pretty clear that your house was treated for termites before you purchased it. We know that it was done over 20 years ago, so the treatment they did is no longer protecting you. I would not pay to retreat the house, unless you have a termite problem. You cannot do the treatment using these holes yourself. That requires high pressure, rodding equipment. Please let me know if you have concrete around the entire building or if you also have dirt around the building, and just concrete in certain areas. If you like, you can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. If you do that, please give me your TH-cam name and remind me what the problem is. I get a lot of termite questions every day and a lot of them are very similar. Depending upon how everything looks, there may be an easy way to do a preventive treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I thought I had subterranean termites, but I discovered tubes hanging from the ceiling in one room. From what I understand, these are another species that require a moist environment. I am in Arizona, my house is on a slab and my attic is very dry. I can tell that this house had this problem before I purchased it because I found several places where the holes were patched up. About a year ago I removed the mud tubes, which had live termites, then drilled a hole and sprayed the termite foam exactly as you recommended here. So far I have not seen any sign of activity. Is it possible that I'm safe for now? What can I do to prevent them from coming back, if anything? I didn't look closely at the termites, so I have no idea of the species.
You are correct that you had subterranean termites. You often see mud tubes hanging from the ceiling with subterranean termites in Arizona. I never recommend spot treating alone for any species of termites. That being said, it can work, if it is done correctly. So, it is possible that you killed off the entire colony, but I cannot guarantee that without inspecting. Just to be sure, I think I would follow up with trenching around the house or just applying termite granules. You may also want to consider monitoring stations. You can make them yourself for about 50 cents each and do the entire house for under $25. I will give you the link to that video. I use the granules every year and I use the monitoring stations as well. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: Unbelievable DIY Termite Treatment...NO Trenching Required Video on how to make monitoring stations: Unbelievable Water Bottle Trick for Termites! Simple to do!
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you! I already watched those videos and ordered the granules that you recommended, which is due to arrive today. I've also been collecting plastic bottles and will be making monitoring stations and placing them 4 feet apart to see if I missed any termites. If so, then I will be trenching.
Is it good to treat a house that had termited in the past, but doesn't exaclty show signs on termited currently? The house I live in had termited treated 7 years ago, but I am wanting to ensure a future infestation doesn't occur again.
If the house was trenched, that treatment will last between 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being the average. So, you are getting to the point where you should consider starting a preventive treatment. Termite granules can often be a good choice. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider other options. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. You can also buy monitoring stations that are already made. They cost between $10 to $15 each. Do not place them any further apart than 8 feet. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
Drywood termites do not produce mud tubes. They fly to your house and colonize in the wood. Formosan termites do build mud tubes because they are subterranean and mostly colonize in the ground, although they can build "cartons" in your walls that allows them not to return to the ground. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Be well Candace. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
How about flying termites? We have them in our home and little guest home. We are not on a cement foundation but pilons. Probably in the barn too. It's an old home. We live in florida.
How you handle that will depend on the species. You have three different species of termites where you live and they each get treated differently. The granules only work for subterranean termites. You could also have drywood or Formosan termites. So, you need to start by determining the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
What if I can't get a hold of Taurus SC or fipronil foam? Is imidacloprid (i.e. the termite killer granules and BioAdvanced Termite Killer Foam) a suitable replacement?
Yes. An imidacloprid foam like Premise or Fuse are fine to use. Fuse even has some fipronil in it as well. You can also trench with imidacloprid products like Premise 2 or Dominion 2L. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
There is some chance that could work, but it is not a sure thing. Cartons are not always nice, neat packages in the wall. They can take up the entire wall void, several wall voids, or even be in your ceiling. It is not unusual to remove the drywall and discover that there are cartons that you missed with the moisture meter. So, you start to remove the drywall where you think the carton is, and then you find yourself removing more and more of the drywall to disclose even more cartons. They do not always fill the wall void either. You may detect moisture behind the wall, but the actual carton does not cover the entire wall void. It may just be running along one of the studs and you may miss it entirely if you try to shoot foam in there, without actually seeing what you're doing. That is why removing the drywall is the preferred procedure. Trying to treat the cartons with a foam is a Hail Mary Pass at best. I know that is not what you want to hear, but Formosan termites are really bad. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
The Taurus SC will last 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being the average. Pest controllers claim 10 years, but that is the outside of the envelope. After 5 years, you can switch to termite granules every year for about $50 per application and an hour of work. No trenching needed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Please do a video on bumblebees. I’ve gotten stung 2x these last few yrs. They hurt & I’m highly allergic. I jumped off lawnmower & ran. Some continued chasing me while stinging my head. Thank you sir!
Are you sure that these are bees and not yellow jackets. I think it is illegal in most states to kill honey bees, and they are usually not aggressive. When they start coming after you, then you could be looking at African bees, but you are most likely looking at yellow jackets. These guys build their nests in the ground, and they will swarm you. Unlike honey bees that can only sting once, these guys can sting you over and over again. After they sting you once, they leave behind a pheromone, and that directs the rest of the yellow jackets right to you. These things can literally sting you to death. It is very likely that, when you were mowing the lawn, you mowed right over a yellow jacket nest. You were very smart to run. So, if this is the case, the way you treat it is somewhat scary. Protect yourself as much as you can by wearing heavy clothing that will be hard for them to sting through. Also, try to make a sting proof head covering. You can sometimes make this out of a wide brimmed hat and just tape screening of some sort around the entire hat with some duct tape. Then just duck tape the screen to your clothing, so they cannot get it. You may also want to wear work gloves. Get a can of orange, fluorescent, spray paint. Wait until dusk. The yellow jackets will always return to the nest in the evening because they cannot fly at night. Keep an eye out for where they are entering the ground. You can do this from a fairly safe distance. When you locate the exact spot where the hole is, then run over there and spray a small X right across the hole, or make a small circle around it, and run like hell. There is a good chance they will not be able to come after you because it is getting too dark for them, but do not take chances. Have a safe place to run to. If your house is too far away, then park the car on the lawn fairly close to the hole, but a safe distance for observation. After it gets dark, the yellow jackets can no longer fly. So, get a flashlight, locate the nest entrance hole and treat it with D-Fense dust. The container has kind of a spout on it. Just stick that spout into the hole and squeeze the container to blow as much dust into the hole as you can. The container spout will seal up the hole, so you will be safe until you pull it out. It is unlikely that they will come after you at night, but run when you pull out the spout, just to be on the safe side. How is that for an exciting adventure? I hope that helps. Be well my friend. D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html
Those weren't bumblebees. Bumblebees are not aggressive at all. I pick them up & let them walk on me. They are highly protected because they are the bees that humans rely on for global food security. What you described sounds like yellow jackets.
Yes. The Taurus SC works for all subterranean species. The only thing is that, with Formosan termites, you also need to check the house for cartons. You cannot treat cartons with Taurus SC. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Great video ,,, please helllp I have a infection in my boat what I can do I just purchased this Taurus sc I was recommended to put a piece a wood to make then come out please help thanks
I need a little more information. Please tell me where you live and if the boat is in the water or just sitting on a trailer on your property. Also, please describe the boat to me. How large is it. Is it made completely out of wood. Where are you seeing the activity? If the boat is on a trailer, are you seeing mud tubes? Please get back to me and we can try to come up with a solution. Be well my friend.
Florida , sitting on trailer , cuddly cabin , 21’ is made parts of wood and the cabin ,, no mud tube I see on the floor the black ones with wings thank you thank youuuuu
@@gherickb8181 Thank you for that information. If they are solid black with wings, then they are most likely either subterranean termites or carpenter ants. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species to make sure that I am correct about the species. Also watch my video on how to tell the difference between ants and termites to make sure that these guys are actually termites. Meanwhile, move the boat. You don't need to move it far. About 20 feet will do. If you are moving it to lawn or dirt, then dig up an area 6 inches deep where the tires and the hitch stand will touch the ground. The holes should be wide enough to create at least a 6 inch wide perimeter around anything that touches the ground, like the tires and the hitch stand. Buy a 20 oz bottle of Taurus SC. Mix it 0.8 ounces per gallon of water in a 5 gallon bucket. After the holes are dug, pour about a gallon in each hole. Fill in each hole with about 3 inches of dirt and soak it again with the Taurus SC. Then fill in the holes all the way and soak it again with the Taurus SC. Next, mix some Taurus SC in pump up garden sprayer and spray all surfaces of the tires and the hitch stand. You can also use the sprayer to treat the backfill dirt if you like. If you find out that these are NOT subterranean termites or carpenter ants, then there is no need to move the boat. Just get back to me and I will explain what to do. Also, let me know if these are carpenter ants because they will need additional treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Video on how to tell the difference between ants and termites: th-cam.com/video/enJPS-h70Bs/w-d-xo.html Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
@@gherickb8181 That's great news. Just move the trailer and treat the dirt as I described and you will be good to go. Eastern subs must return to the soil or they will die. When you move the trailer, they will become exposed to the air if they exit and that will kill them. If they stay, they will dehydrate to death. Any new termites will be forced to cross that barrier you created under the wheels and hitch stand. That's all there is to it. Check your house for an infestation. They could be there as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
The beta-cyfluthrin granules or liquid does not work. You can get the BioAdvanced granules that use imidacloprid, but they are not recommended for Formosan termites. They are fine for other species of subterranean termites though. For Formosan termites, you need to trench using fipronil or imidacloprid liquid. So, you can use Taurus SC or Premise 2. Bifenthrin is not a good choice for the same reason beta-cyfluthrin is not a good choice. These products kill too fast. You need to give the termites time to bring the pesticide back to the colony, so you need a very slow kill product. By the way, I am on vacation, and I only get internet some of the time. I will be back after June 11, and I will be able to answer follow up questions then. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I watched a lot off your video I am in South Florida I don't see any signs inside the house but they start eating my back door also I find a peach tree infested I dig around All the roots was full of termites I pull everything with the truck out from the ground and I burned everything I am sure is some more now I put a plastic bag next to a light bulb outside and they get in there sometime but is hard to tell what spice is when I dig the tree out every roots was roddet and about 1ft in the ground any advice
I wish you had contacted me before you removed the tree. You could have used that tree to eliminate the colony. Please don't beat yourself up too much about doing that though because most people would do the same thing. The problem is that now the termites are going to find a new food source, and that may end up being your home. So, since we cannot fight them at the tree right now, then we need to make certain that they are not in your home. They may be attacking your home without you realizing it. So, I would like you to do a full inspection of the building. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you the link to it. If you do not find any evidence of termites in your home, then you need to do something to prevent them. If there are termites in your home, then you are going to need to treat them. Which way you go with this is going to depend on the outcome of that inspection. Before you do the inspection, see if you can find a termite where the tree used to be, that may still be eating some of the leftover roots. You need to find one that has a red head. If you can find one like that, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Please get back to me and let me know that you found one. At that point we can easily identify it. Knowing the species is very helpful because different species get treated differently. If we do not know the species, then we need to basically treat as if you have them all. You also said that you get some in a plastic bag. Please try to get one of those as well, so that we can have a look at it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to inspect your home for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
That is a very good question. Formosan termites only live in warm, humid climates. I am not sure that it is fully understood how the cartons obtain enough moisture to keep the termites alive, but I suspect that most of the moisture is obtained from the atmosphere. That is to say, the humidity in the air. I think that some of the moisture is brought with the termites from the ground as well. Sometimes, there may be a leak in the roof, walls, or plumbing that will also provide moisture. It is also unclear how long a carton will survive after the main colony in the ground has been eliminated. I think that will depend upon the moisture conditions in the environment where the infestation is located. I suspect that, if there is a sufficient moisture content available, then the carton can survive for quite some time. That is why it is typically recommended to remove the cartons. I can tell you that a lot of pest controllers don't even bother with the cartons. Either they don't know that those cartons can go on surviving for a long time, or they just don't want to do that part of the job. A lot of companies don't even look for the cartons. For me, I think the cartons definitely need to be located and removed because the cartons have the potential to maintain life for quite some time and Formosan termites are very fast eaters. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You need to inspect under the crawl space. If you see mud tubes that are in contact with the ground, then you need to trench under the crawl space around the entire perimeter of the house. You also need to trench on the outside of the house around the entire perimeter as well. If there are no mud tubs in contact with the ground under the house, then all you need to do is trench around the outside of the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
My very rotted pole barn has termites. One of the poles has holes and looks like there’s a nest inside. Does that mean it’s Formosan? Or the usual subterraneans can make nests in rotted wood as well? I can only find the worker termites under wood. I hear clicking of them chewing but no rattling I think the soldier do that. It’s pretty far from my house maybe 50ft but maybe it’s a good idea to kill them before demolishing it?
Formosan termites no not colonize in wood that is above the ground. Neither do other species of subterranean termites. The only species that does that are drywood termites. If you are only seeing the workers, then there's a good chance that these guys are subterranean and the colony is most likely located under the ground somewhere, within a 300 foot radius of the barn. I would definitely recommend treating them before you tear down the barn. You can trench around the barn or you can try to spot treat the areas where you are seeing the activity. Please let me know if you would like the procedure for spot treating, and I will give it to you in writing. I recommend that you inspect your home for termites. I also recommend that you take some sort of preventive measures to protect your home of termites. You can place monitoring stations around the house, or you may be able to use granules around the house. Personally, I do both. For the granules to work, you need to have dirt around most of the house, and that dirt needs to be porous enough so that water will leach into it. You can do a simple test to see if your dirt is porous enough by simply digging a shallow hole right next to the foundation that is 4 inches deep and about 8 to 12 inches long. Just the width of the shovel is all you need. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes for it to seep down into the ground. If it drains down into the ground reasonably well, then the granules should work fine for you. The granules may also work for the barn as well. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. There are two versions of them now. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the right ones, but you can still get them from Amazon. I will give you a link. I will also give you a link to my video on how to apply the granules. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html Video on how to use termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_5&=&crid=2P2TMXP7SR4W8&=&sprefix=termi
Thank you for the response. I only saw workers under a stack of wood under the pole barn. But maybe it is drywood térmites in the actual pole barn because there is definitely some kind of nest inside the wood. I hear lots of clicking noises. It sounds like it’s everywhere. It’s an open structure so could I put borecare or the spot treatment in all the wood? I also wouldn’t mind just burning it down the wood looks really bad. When I removed the wooden border and mulch in front of my house luckily there was no termites just a lot of the small black ants. No frass, mud tubes, wings or holes in the house I’ve found. I do hear clicking in the walls maybe it’s normal. Not nearly as much clicking noises as the pole barn. I used the granules you recommended and will eventually do the drywood termite prevention you mentioned in a different video
You cannot treat Formosan termites with a hose end sprayer. You must trench around the house. After trenching, you need to inspect for cartons inside. These guys are very aggressive eaters, so you need to do it correctly. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. Be well my friend.
Scary! Right? These guys are easy to prevent though. People just need to take Formosan termites seriously and do a preventive treatment every year. It takes less than an hour and only costs $50, but many folks don't do it. It's a bit like never brushing your teeth and being surprised when you find out that you have cavities. You know. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure sort of thing. Be well my friend.
It sounds like you are using the Spectraside Termite Stakes. Unfortunately, these are pretty much useless against termites. I did a video on them recently, and I will give you a link to it. Please be aware that the only species of termites that eat live wood are Formosan termites. These guys are very aggressive eaters and can destroy your house very quickly. Therefore, it is important that you identify the species. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Don't worry. It's not that hard. Meanwhile, you can try to treat the tree. This is something of a Hair Mary Pass, but you can try drilling holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90 degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart, and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. Please get back to me after you identify the species. Be well my friend. Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: th-cam.com/video/UDzg-1lpynA/w-d-xo.html Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
The first thing you need to do is make sure that these are actually powderpost beetles. Most of the time you're going to find these guys in a crawlspace. If you are certain that is what's going on, then the treatment for that is to apply Bora-Care to all the wood surfaces in the crawlspace. It is possible to find them in areas other than the crawlspace, but that is usually where we see them. I do not have a video on how to treat powderpost beetles, but it's pretty simple. You just mix Bora-Care 1 to 1 with water in a 5 gallon bucket. To mix it you need to use a drill with a paint mixer attachment. Mix the product together with water until it comes to a watery consistency. Pour it into a one gallon garden sprayer, and spray all the wood in the affected areas. This is a permanent treatment that will protect you from all species of wood destroying insects. I will give you a link to a video on how to use the product and a link to the product. Bora-Care can clog up a sprayer pretty fast, so I recommend buying the cheapest sprayer you can find. Just throw the sprayer away when you are done. Also, they will tell you that you need to mix it with hot water, but cold water works just fine. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to apply Bora-Care: How to Use BORA-CARE Borate Wood Treatment Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
I know the feeling. I have all sorts of tools that I forgot I had until I am looking for something else and I run into them. So, that's where I put that. Be well my friend.
The first thing you need to do is figure out what is causing it. The easiest way to do that is to call a pest controller. Almost all of them will do a free inspection and tell you what is going on. Make sure they list the exact species on the estimate. They will want to sell you the job, but you don't have to hire them. Just thank them for their time and let them know that you will think it over. You can also dig into the area where you are seeing this piled dirt to see if you can find a specimen. I usually use a flathead screwdriver. Put the specimen in a jar and let it die. Then you can take it out and have a good look at it. If possible, try to get one with a red head. I have a video on how to identify termite species and I will give you a link to it. Most likely, this is a termite situation. Different species of termites need to be treated differently, so identifying the species is important. Please get back to me after you have them identified and I can guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Not exactly. They are not exactly the same, but cut from the same cloth. I believe Formosan termites are a subspecies of Asian termites. They hail from different areas of the world, but both are very destructive. They look very similar and would be hard to tell apart. I have never encountered Asian termites, but I would treat them the same way. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Formosan termites got their name from the island of Formosa, which is now known as Taiwan. They were first described in Taiwan in the early 1900s, and they are thought to be native to southern China and Taiwan. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I get that a lot, but my goal is not to get views. I don't do it for the money. I do it to educate people on how to eliminate the problem. So, my view is, watch it or don't watch it. If you want to solve the problem, then watch it. If you don't have the time or patience, then I am okay with that too. I do talk slow and I'm okay with that too. It took years for me to learn how to do this stuff and it takes about an hour to produce just one minute of video. So, if I can take the time to learn how to do it and then make the video, I think the viewer can take the time to watch it. Hey, it's free, and I will also take an hour sometimes to answer just one question. The way I see it is, if I can take the time to explain everything clearly and answer questions completely, then the people who need the information can take the time to watch the video. I love people and I love helping them, but it's a two way street. If I am willing to put in the time, then the people I help should do the same. I think it's only fair. Be well my friend.
If you drill 10 holes every 4 inches inside of carton of termites an inject inside 5-6 oz fipronil or fipronil foam this will not kill colony inside carton?
I'm thinking probably yes, but I don't know for sure. The industry standard is to remove the carton. I have not tried to treat a carton inside the wall. So, it's something you could try. Just keep in mind that these guys are very aggressive eaters and can do a lot of damage. Also, one of the reasons we remove the drywall is to assess the damage and make sure that we can see the entire area of the carton. The borescope can only take you so far. If it were my house, I would probably give it a try, but I am a risk taker at heart. So, you need to decide how much risk you are willing to take. If you do it, then please let me know how it works out. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@johnjohnson-pf4kw Yes. You do have them there. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's easier than you may think. Hopefully, you don't have Formosan termites. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
That is something that the property owner needs to handle. My advice is to call the landlord and make them aware of the situation. If this is Formosan termites, they can destroy the entire building in a matter of months. Be well my friend.
The only kind of termites that you should ever find in your sinks or tubs would be swarmers. That is because termites do not live long if they are exposed to the air. Swarmers are an exception because they are looking to start another colony. You will know that these guys are swarmers because they have wings. The first thing you need to do is to identify the species because different species get treated differently. Also, make sure these guys are actually termites and not something else. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and see if these guys look like the photos in that video. Also, have a look to see if you live in an area where drywood and Formosan termites are known to exist. Please get back to me after you have identified the species, and I can guide you further. Be well my friend.
Hello guy…just finished a few of your videos and I’m in desperate need of help …I’ve been hit twice that I know of and I won’t have peace of mind with the these pest control people already drilled my house twice and tested new construction and the termites ate the same exact wall they treated…. Is there anyway we can exchange numbers and we can speak over the phone so I can explain everything that has happened and what to do about it… I’ll be happy to give you my number if that’s something you are willing to do… thank you🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. If you can, please attach a copy of the contract that you have with the pest control company. I would like to see what they think is going on. Let me know the best time to call. Be well my friend.
That’s exactly what I wanted to talk to you about the company lied to me and it’s a very ridiculously crooked situation but I didn’t want to bash the pest company on social platform …they dont have the contract and they evidently didn’t file it with the state agriculture department either…but I’ll try emailing you and hopefully we can talk on the phone thank you very much
Great video. I purchased a home that previously had termites. Was going to call pest control for a treatment until I happened to see your cockroach video. Enjoy your retirement.
It's probably best not to apply any pesticide in the rain. I would wait for a day when it is not raining. After you have the trench filled in, then it can rain all it wants. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you for another video Guy. I can attest that Guy will take his time and help anyone with more questions about whatever pest you are trying to eliminate . Guy is the best. Thank you again for all your help.
That is such a nice thing to say. Thank you so much. Greatly appreciated.
Another great video. And as always, the visuals are so helpful. It makes it much easier for identifying what kind of termites to look for.
Thanks Chris. You caught me working again. You have Formosan termites where you live, so you were very smart to treat with the granules to prevent the problem. These guys are easy to prevent, but a real pain to eliminate. Well done.
Thank you Guy for your time and efforts of sharing valuable video content to help homeowners treat their homes as inexpensively as possible. I know your solutions work because we treated my mom's rental property that was infested with german roaches and I went through you to resolve it. Very recently my tenant sent me a video of the hole the termites went through in the bathroom of the house. I have just ordered the Taurus SC and Termidor Foam to treat my rental property, and am probably going to go ahead and order the moisture meter as well. I truly appreciate your good advice and will be using it diligently now that I know how to. I certainly do not want to hire a pest control company to pay thousands of dollars to resolve this issue.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Please make sure of the species before you treat. Different species need to be treated differently. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species, then get back to me and I may be able to guide you further. You know that I am always happy to help.
Be well Veronica.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
As a pest/ termite control professional, this is reliable information. Great presentation.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Always nice to hear from another pest controller. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, been watching your videos for the last few days. Firstly let me appreciate for the kind of support you are providing to viewers 😊. I am from Kerala, India, now let me explain. Two years ago we had first experience of termite in our office and damaged panelling, wall papers and some minor damages to one door and window frame. We used repellent chemical to control it, and demolished damaged panels including celing.
Last month we found some serious infection in the same office, but some of the other areas. I used repellent chemical and also called a pest control agency. After inspection they recommended drilling around the foundation both inside and outside wall to control termites. They applied non repellent liquid chemical, Bayer Premise, ( Imidacloprid ) along the foundation walls. Also applied Bayer Ajenda mixed with diesel in the wood panelling, celing and flooring. After that I could see few live termites here and there. For the last three weeks no live insects or symptoms of termites. Do you think I am safe for now. Any further action required, monitoring, baiting. From your videos I now recognise it was Formosan Termite , since it damaged cealing inside the building.
Thank you.
I'm sure that the pest controller probably explained that you should never use a repellent pesticide to treat termites. That just makes them move to a different area of the building. You always need to use nonrepellent pesticides and Premise II is a good one. Bayer Agenda is also a good termiticide, but it should never be mixed with diesel fuel. That is a terrible idea, and I cannot believe that it's even legal there. Agenda is water based and will not mix well with diesel. Also, diesel is flammable, so if you apply it to wood, you are creating a fire hazard. If there is a fire, this may greatly reduce the time you have to exit the building and it could result in unnecessary deaths. It's the sort of thing people here go to jail over. If the termites are Formosan, then they should be treated as I show in my video. The right way to do it is to trench around the entire building and then look for cartons in the structure. Treating the visible wood is not sufficient. You must use a moisture meter and a borescope to search for cartons. When a carton is discovered, the wall covering should be removed to expose the carton and then the carton should be removed. While it is possible that the treatment done by the pest controller will work, it is far from a sure thing because it was not done correctly. Sometimes you can do this sort of spot treatment and it will work, but you need to inspect every month for activity. Formosan termites work fast, so keep inspecting for at least a year. If you see any termites after 12 weeks, then the treatment most likely did not work.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m glad you said those boundary lines don’t necessarily mean you’re in the clear. As my personal example, I had drywood termites and I’m in the orange area, and not in the red area.
The problem is that it is very hard to figure out exactly where the line is. I had to use a bit of Kentucky windage. All I could do was research places where drywood termites were reported, but I do not have access to every incident. In rare cases I have seen drywood termites in areas that are way too far north for them. This can happen sometimes when someone brings a piece of wooden furniture from an infested area to their home that is out of the zone where we would expect to see them. Most of the time, they will not survive long because it is too cold or there is not enough humidity all year long, but if they are close to the line, then they may actually spread the infestation to others and the line moves. Also, these guys are always pushing the boundaries and trying to get as far north as possible. So, it is very possible that I got the line wrong in some places. Hopefully, I got it reasonably close though. By the way, if you had drywood termites, then your neighbors probably have them too. Since they swarm every year, there is almost a 100% chance that you will get reinfested within a year after you fumigate. That is because the gas they use to fumigate has no residual action whatsoever. Drywood termites need 4 to 7 years to develop a gallery to the point where they can swarm, so most people do not realize that they have been reinfested for several years. The termites are still eating though. To prevent a reinfestation, you need to do a preventative treatment every 60 days. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. In the video I suggest doing it every 90 days, but I am rethinking that now. While the pesticide does last 90 days, it is not as potent in the last 30 days as it is in the first 30 days, so I have now decided not to take chances. Fumigation is the only way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation. The preventative treatment needs to be started before the fumigation is done because you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
First off, thank you very much for these videos. When you are on a fixed income having a pest control company come in to treat for termites is impossible, if you want to continue eating regularly.
Two an a half years ago I had termites in my walls. I think they were regular subterranean termites. I could hear a tiny knocking sound at night and pinholes appeared in the drywall on the inside of an outer wall. Frass was beneath them. I found several mud tubes running up my slab foundation in the area where the termites were on the inside. I trenched and used Dominion (imidacloprid) per the instructions on the bottle. Then I squirted some of the solution into the pinholes using a syringe with a fine needle, and filled the holes with drywall spackling. I've seen no sign of termites since. However, I recently found termites under an old landscape timber in a flowerbed that is about 10 feet from my house. I spot treated the area. Should I repeat the house treatment just to be safe?
Thank you for reaching out to me. You did not tell me where you live, and location does matter. As a general rule though, the first thing you should do is check the house to see if you have an infestation going on of subterranean termites. What you want to do is check for mud tubes. Most of the time, you will find them around the outside of the house coming up from the ground, but you may also find them in the crawl space and sometimes in the attic as well. If you do not see any mud tubes, then you should treat that landscape log. You indicated that you already did that, but you did not tell me how you did it. For it to work, it needs to be done correctly. The best way to do it, is to roll over the landscape log and remove a couple of inches of soil underneath it and treat with Taurus SC, mixed 0.8 oz per gallon. Just soak the area under the log really well with it, fill the dirt back in, and soak that really well too. Then simply replace the landscape log back where it was. The area you dig out should be about 6 in wider in all directions than the footprint of the landscape log. This way, the termites will have no choice but to pass through the termiticide on their way to and from the landscape log. This treatment will most likely kill off the entire colony. I will give you a link to the product. You can apply it with a pump up tank sprayer or you can simply use a watering can like you would use to water flowers.
If you did the trenching correctly, you should be good for another couple of years at least, so I wouldn't anticipate that you will find any mud tubes around the house, but it would be wise to check. Still, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video. Please let me know if you are in the red or orange area on the map. If you aren't, then you are good to go.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
Thank you for your clear and calm delivery as I'm frantiic at having identified termites in my ceiling by the sound they are making.
Can you please let me know what to do. Thank you.
The first thing you need to do is to make sure that the problem is termites and not something else. There are several reasons for noise in the ceiling. This could also be carpenter ants or even rodents. So, start with an inspection of the entire building. Walk around the outside and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground. You may also find them in the eves. If you have a crawlspace, then go under there and look for mud tubes. If you find mud tubes, then you do have termites. Otherwise, this may be something different. If you are seeing large ants around, then you may have carpenter ants. If you are not seeing any of that sort of thing, then this could be a rodent problem. If you are certain that you have termites, then it is important to identify the species, because different species get treated differently. It's not hard to do. Just watch my video on how to identify termite species. I walk you right through it. Please get back to me after you inspect, and I will explain exactly what you need to do. Be well Natalie.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Love your videos thanks for the tips on dealing with termites
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
Great video. I like your down-to-earth presentations.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Howdy Guy , Awesome Videos.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
Great videos! What is your recommendation for old pier and beam foundation farmhouse. Its is in very sandy soil making it easy to dig but I wondered about the piers under the house. It’s is a weekend place built in early 1900’s. I also have had issues with wood stored in our barn nearby.
The treatment is the same for pier homes, except you need to trench around each pier. Inspect the wood in the barn for termites. If they are there, I can advise you on how to treat them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I appreciate all of your videos! They are truly helpful and helped with eliminating all my fire ants! I recently went away for about two month and came home found tons (hundreds) of beetles crawling on attics and some on curtains living room etc. it’s a rare topic but are they harmful to wood like termites? And would you recommend a specific way to get rid of them? They are indoor so I cannot use termidor. I also have a picture if I can send to you. Thanks a lot!
Okay. That is definitely on the weird side. You can send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. They are probably not wood destroying, but they do need to go. Let's see if we can send them packing. First though, I need to see what they are. Try to get a close-up photo of one of them that is very well in focus. I need to see its back and head. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you Guy.. getting a scope in am. You have helped me so much.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I have gallons of used motor oil, will pouring the oil around the foundation deter termites from going to the foundation.
I honestly don't know, but that would be polluting the environment. I suppose it may get them to change direction, but they could just go under it and find a crack or crevice into the foundation. I have never seen it done. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
ALWAYS informative! Thanks Guy!!
Thanks for watching. Be well mate.
@@GuysPestSolutions No problem mate - chat soon! :)
Earned my subscribe. Thank you for such informational videos. 😊😊
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for this video! We have formosan termites in the attic/ceiling. We had a leak in the roof last year, the leak was repaired and the roof replaced. However, we discovered the termites in the same area have eating the crown molding in our living room. We had the perimiter trenched and treated last year with termidor, and the peat control people returned to treat the crown molding and an area under the bathroom tub where they suspect they are coming in? They report a carton under the tub? They did not recommend tenting and fumigating the house? What is the best way to get rid of these formosan termites at this time
Unfortunately, you are probably not going to like the answer to this question because it's expensive. I am so sorry, but that carton needs to be removed. Depending upon the way the house is constructed, you may be able to gain access to under the tub from an adjoining wall. I recommend enlisting the services or a carpenter or handyman to try and gain access to the carton. The entire carton must be removed, or these guys are probably going to go on eating. It would not surprise me if there are also cartons in the attic/ceiling. You must find those cartons and remove them as well. I would not rule out cartons in the walls that are not showing damage yet either. Pest control companies are notorious for not understanding Formosan termites and how to find and remove cartons. So, you should look for cartons yourself. This video will show you what cartons are and how to find them. Finally, pest control companies are often not good at properly trenching for Formosan termites. They often do not treat the backfill dirt. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Formosan termites are formidable. There is no way of knowing how they did the trenching, so the best you can do is look for cartons and then inspect the building for mud tubes every month going forward for at least a year. After that, inspect at least annually. I will give you a link to my video on how to inspect for termites. It's not that hard to do. I am so sorry that his happened to you and I feel really bad that I had to share this kind of news with you. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but I have no incentive to mislead you because I do this stuff for free. So, with me, you always get the truth.
By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11.
Be well Susan.
Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for your reply. I hope your travels are relaxing and wonderful. We purchased the general tools to view and detect moisture. Not seeing anything live termites with the camera nor did I see a carton? UGH we want to remove the crown molding but its only been two weeks since pest people sprayed with termidor. Maybe we will be able to determine the carton after we remove the crown molding.
@@susanbowen8659 I only have a minute before I need to get packing, but you may be correct. Oftentimes when you remove that crown molding you will see some very scary activity behind it. That Termidor treatment was a Hail Mary Pass at best. I don't mean to scare you, but I have seen some stuff straight out of a Stephen King novel behind walls where Formosan termites were operating. I hope this is not the case with you, but don't be too surprised if you remove that crown molding to find that there isn't much left of it. I am hoping that you get lucky. It is always possible that the damage was limited in your case, but I would not just assume that to be the case. Formosan termites are very destructive, and they can work alarmingly fast. I think removing that crown molding is a very good idea.
I hope that helps. Be well Susan.
Hi guy! Your videos have been amazingly helpful. Found eastern subterranean termites near my house a couple weeks ago, then tonight a swarm from a neighbor of formosan's started gathering around the light on my front porch.
After your education, I'm ready to trench my house and watch for signs of wall cartons. I have a question though:
Is it possible and if so, how often, will Formosan swarmers establish a new colony directly as a carton in your home? I.E. - if i saw swarmers today and believe they didn't originate from my house, and trench tomorrow, can i feel pretty safe that I will have prevented infestation? Or do i need to be alert that swarmers could be establishing a new colony directly in my house (having flown onto it) despite trenching?
Thanks again for your excellent content! I'd feel pretty helpless without it
Formosan termites are subterranean, so they attack from the ground and not from the air. The swarmers will not create cartons in your home. They must attack from the ground, just like any other species of subterranean termites. After they get into your house, then the workers will begin to build these cartons. Trenching is an excellent way to prevent them. Please watch my video that explains the proper way to trench your house. I did cover it in the video you watched, but my video on trenching does a more in depth job of explaining it. I think it is well worth watching if you plan on trenching.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much!! Very imformative video. All of your video specially for us that wants yo save money.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I live in the upper peninsula. But im watching your video because its interesting.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I might hat terminates but my real problem are cockroaches. Living in Houston makes it so that every house has bugs of some sort. With all the pesticides and boric acid I have out helps but the keep showing up. I think they are coming out of the sink. I have a plug but they still show up. I just laid out cockroach bait and I keep spraying. These along with the termites, makes it challenging to stay ahead of these pests.
The roaches are not coming out of the drain. They are going into the sink drain to eat sludge and then they come back out, and you may think that they are getting in that way, but they aren't. Getting rid of German roaches is hard, but it can be done. I have the only video on TH-cam that can show you how to do it. I will give you a link to it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to eliminate German cockroaches: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video really helped me out. I have a question for you. I bought a property had signs of activity of termites. They had droppings and mod tups , but the mod tups were dried up and there was no termites visible in the mud, we still went with fumigating the home. Almost 2 years later, I see flying redhead termites outside my property. I also live in the red and orange part of your map
If you saw mud tubes, then these were not drywood termites. They were subterranean termites. Fumigation does not work for subterranean termites. You may have had both species. It is possible that the subterranean termites were treated by a neighbor and that took out the colony for you. This happens sometimes. If the termite swarmers you are seeing have a red head and a dark brown body, then they may be drywood termites. You should inspect your home for an infestation. I have a video on how to do that. Please let me know if you find any evidence of termite activity in your home and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
I got me some Taurus sc and it seems like it says on the label you can mix up to 1.25 oz per gal , is that correct ? Thanks , love your videos , very very informative 👍.
You could mix it that strong, but for most applications, you are fine mixing it at 0.8 oz per gallon of water. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for your reply 👍
@@WhiteOak09 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
We have dug up trenches and followed your Taurus SC treatment exactly as you have described and explained. We wondered if adding spot treatments with the " fuse foam" witch contains both fipronil and Imidaclopid injected into some of the termite damaged areas where we see they've eaten already. Will this help them carry the poison back quicker to the underground nest? We've read that the use foam has soap added to make it foam but we'd also read that the soap kills the termites instantly. WE dont want then to die fast. We want them to bring the fipronil and im8daclopid death chemicals back to the colony to share with and finish all of them off right down to the queen. .
Do you recommemd this spot treatment with the " fuse foam?" Or is a a bad idea? Thank you for sooo much information you've given to us "do it yourselfers ". We felt more confident with your assistance m education and knowledge you ve shared from your decades in the biz. ( Tampa, Florida home and formosan termites were detected in the scraped wood. No kick outs, no frass, But we can see some wrinkled and empty paint layers munched and damaged by formosans termites that were discovered after scraping the decorative trim on the exterior of the house. There has been no interior damage noticed but we ordered a moisture meter and bore scope and will check the house for moisture issues once it arrives. We've started making our Taurus SC treated cardboard bait stations now the trenching us complete. ) A huge Thanks for your no nonsense approach to our very scary formosan n8ghtmare.
I'm so sorry that you were dealing with Formosan termites. Since you live in Tampa, I thought you were going to tell me that you had drywood termites as well. Unfortunately, drywood termites are a serious problem in Tampa. If you have not done so already, you should begin to do a preventive treatment on your home to stop drywood termites. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. This is a generic video that covers a lot of pests, but it also works for drywood termites. Just skip the part about treating your yard because you only need to treat your house for drywood termites. That being said, it is not a bad idea to treat your yard as well to prevent a bunch of other pests.
I'm glad you are buying the moisture meter and a borescope. You would be wise to investigate the slightest differences in the moisture meter reading with the borescope. Sometimes the carton is located on the wall that is farthest away from where you were testing. For example, if you are testing an exterior wall, the carton may be on the wall where the exterior siding is, instead of on the part of the wall with the drywall is. When the carton is that far away from the surface being tested, you may only get a very slight reading. Also keep in mind that it is very common to find cartons very near the ceiling.
As for the Fuse Foam, I think it would be fine to use as a spot treatment. I prefer FiPro, but I don't see anything wrong with using Fuse. To spot treat, drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. No always, but this is generally the case. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Guy thanks a million. We already 9rder a sprayer and extra taurus AC to spray the soffit and facia but it will have to wait while tackle the formosan nightmare. Already trenched. But a gulky washer of rain. For two days ...has us wonder9ng if we will need to trench and treat again, it was dry for days after we did the trench work. The recent tropical storm brought in loads pf water. We noticed pools of water where we trenched last week. Hps8mce it already dried previously...will standing water effect our trench treatment. We have shady soiod and normally good drainage. Maybe our trench8ng disturbed the normal water flow? Anyway we will treat for the preve tion 9f dry wood. When the rain stops. And we'll also go up the wall 2 feet from the ground and two feet out as you shared in your videos. Currently we're making the laundry detergent container bait stations. We loaded up at a laundromat shallow dumpster to select the right size containers . WHat a terrific spot to get the supplies. . Pass that on in your next video. It s a great way to get the empty soap jugs fast . We have ppreciated every one of your videos weve viewed ( your mosquito treatment plan is on the " honey do list" expecially after all this rain) . Yyour no nonsense , explanations, directions with the considerate frugal approach has educated us and goven us the courage and confidence to do it ourselves. A huge THANK YOU for sharring your years of experince , tips, tricks and knowledge. YOU'RE a " GOOD as GOLD GUY " in our eyes. THANKS
@@donaldharvey2642 If it was dry for a couple of days after you trenched, then the pesticide already bonded with the soil, so you should be okay. You do need to search for cartons in the house though. The trench should take care of the main colony, but those cartons can go on doing a lot of damage for a long time, so do not underestimate them. If you see any deviation at all in the moisture meter, then check it out with the borescope. Check near the ceiling because they like to build cartons high up in the wall for some reason. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you, Guy, for your detailed info on how to deal with Formosan termites. I'm in northern California. I've been seeing some swarmers on the outside of my home near the lower vents on one side. I tried to ID what type of termite swarmers I have (they're light tan color). Hard to see the mandibles on them. Like you said it would be better to get a specimen from damaged wood. I wanted to clarify what you said in the video. If I find kick out holes and frass beneath inside the house, does it always mean that drywood termites are the problem in that spot. Or do Formosan termites also create kickout holes and Frass? Or do Formosan termites just kickout frass into the wall voids where we cannot see? The Amazon link to the borescope you recommend is no longer available. Can you recommend an alternative borescope on Amazon that meets your approval? Thanks!
Formosan termites create mud tubes, but not frass. Drywood termites create frass, but not mud tubes. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It shows what drywood termite frass looks like. Sometimes you will see some mud from Formosan termites, but that's not frass. You always know frass because it looks like tiny pellets and not like sand or sawdust. There is always a kick out hole just above where the frass is located. Both Formosan and drywood termites create exit holes, but that is not the same as kick out holes. They do look very similar though. If there is a kick out hole, then there is going to be frass under it. Please let me know if you have drywood termites and I will try to assist you with that.
The problem with Amazon is that products are always being discontinued. I will give you a link to another borescope. This is one of the less expensive ones and I have not tried this particular scope. It looks good, but keep in mind that you usually get what you pay for. The reviews seem pretty good, so I would give it a try.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Borescope: www.amazon.com/Daxiongmao-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B0C3R381FC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=K8VKD3C9BFQQ&keywords=borescope+camera+with+light&qid=1694020288&sprefix=borescope%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-6#customerReviews
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the quick reply!
@@rover8783 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Great video. I'm going to purchase the moisture sensor. If I do find a carton, should I foam it first to kill off the colony and then remove it? Also, is it possible to have inactive cartons after treatment? Does the moisture sensor only detect active cartons since they are moist? I suspect an inactive carton would be dry.
Keep in mind that the moisture meter does not specifically detect cartons. The moisture meter detects moisture. There are other reasons why the moisture meter may show a higher reading, other than cartons. Also, it can sometimes be difficult to find all the cartons with the moisture meter because the carton may not be in contact with the drywall that you are testing. Therefore, you may only get a very slight reading that is higher than normal. So, any deviation in the reading, no matter how slight, should be investigated with the borescope. I think it is possible to run into a carton that is not active. However, I honestly do not know if an inactive carton will contain enough moisture to be detected by the moisture meter. It is unclear to me exactly how those cartons obtain and store the moisture that is needed for the termites. I have never been trained on that aspect of it, and there isn't a lot of information out there about it either. As best as I can tell, worker termites most likely obtain moisture from the environment and bring it back to the carton. The material that the carton is made of has the ability to hold moisture for some time, without additional moisture being added. In other words, it has moisture retaining properties. Theoretically, if the carton is inactive, then you would think that, eventually, it will dry out. However, I am unclear if this will happen, or how quickly it would happen. In any event, if you do not detect any moisture whatsoever, then you most likely would not explore further with the borescope. If you do detect moisture, and the borescope confirms the existence of a carton, then you would not really know if it was active or not, so you would need to remove it anyway. So, while that is an interesting scientific question, I don't know that obtaining a definitive answer to it serves any practical purpose.
There are many pest controllers who either do not mess with the cartons at all, or they try to treat them without removing them. Personally, I think both of those approaches are inadequate, and I have seen cases where pest controllers have done this, and it resulted in serious damage to the building. Those cartons can remain healthy for some time, so in my judgment, those things need to be removed. Therefore, I would not waste time trying to treat one before I removed it. I think the best thing to do is to remove the drywall to gain access to the carton, and then remove the carton. I understand that this is expensive, but it is also expensive to repair the damage that is going to be done by these guys if the carton is not removed. Then, you still need to repair the damage after you remove the carton. So, my advice is to never mess with these guys. They are very destructive, so they need to go. The only sure-fire way to do that is to open up the wall and remove the carton. At least, that is the way it seems to me. I'm not saying it is not possible to be successful treating a carton without opening up the wall, but I think it's a bit like playing Russian roulette. It certainly is not a sure thing, and I don't know how you would ever tell if you were successful in killing that carton before observing more damage. If you do remove the wall covering to expose the carton, I would see no reason to treat it prior to removing it. However, I would treat the cartons outside before disposing of them in the trash.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your help. I plan to purchase the moisture meter and borescope in your video links. I certainly understand the urgency of removing the carton since Formosans are very destructive but also worried about the termites that will escape into other parts of the wall during the removal. Plus there would be other termites outside the carton that are foraging. Would they return to the carton area and be exposed to the fipronil treatment I would place after removing the carton?
@@mtbbiker6401 That's not something to be concerned about. Termites cannot survive without the carton. Any stragglers will die off after the carton is removed because they will no longer be able to obtain the moisture they need to survive. After you trench and remove the cartons, it's curtains for all of them. They won't survive very long after the carton is removed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Just found formosan swarmers coming in through the windows. I'm praying I have nothing in my walls and that the products will take care of the invaders in time. Thank you so much for uploading this video!!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions since they're coming through my windows, does that mean they're swarmers from a different colony not in my house? Or is it still likely I have a colony in my walls?
@@mycoffee2654 It depends. If you are seeing them outside, and they are really Formosan termites, then they may just be from a colony outside the house somewhere. Be careful though, because Formosan swarmers look a lot like drywood swarmers. If these are actually drywood swarmers, then you probably do have an infestation in the house. If you are seeing them inside the house, then you most likely do have an infestation, regardless of the species. Keep in mind that Formosan termites are subterranean, so the main colony would be in the ground somewhere. That means they are traveling to and from your house. However, this species also has the ability to build what we call "cartons" and your walls and other areas of the home. The termites in those cartons do not need to return to the ground. Formosan termites are very aggressive eaters and they can do a lot of damage very quickly, so you may want to get an inspection done. If these are actually drywood termites, then they do not colonize in the ground at all. They only colonize in your house. A good place for you to start is to watch my video on how to identify termite species. It is not as hard as you may think. I will give you a link to it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions i believe they are formosan. I trenched around my house and put taurus sc in it. I then used the moisture detector on my walls and ceiling and drilled and boroscoped everywhere I saw high moisture. I found no cartons in my house, even where there was high moisture. I didn't see any termites for about a week. Tonight, I found maybe 10 in my house. However, i found about 10 more enamored with my front porch light. I imagine that must mean the colony is outside and a few made it in. I used termidor on my drilled holes from the previous inspection I made. Is it reasonable to assume I don't have an infestation if the termites disappeared for a week and most of the termites are outside? If it's not reasonable to assume that, is a professional inspection my next step?
It worked!!! They're gone!!! I just had to follow your video and spray under my house as far as the sprayer could reach and that finished the problem! Thank you so much for your help!
So very informative but scary. Q: Does an instrument like the Walabot show termite cartons? Thanks for all that you’re teaching us.
I have not used a Walabot myself, but I have seen some mixed reviews on them. So, I cannot say with any certainty that this device will be helpful with finding cartons. I understand the the Walabot DIY 2 may have the ability to detect movement in walls, such as bugs. Again, I have not tried one and they are a bit pricey at about $200 on Amazon. I think it's certainly something you could try, but keep in mind that you are pioneering this a bit, so use your best judgement. If it works well for you, then please let me know. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I have mulch around house in planters. Have had subterranean termite problems in the past. Was told to remove the mulch but that would be a ton of work. Please advise. Thank you for the tutorials.
Were the termites Formosan? Please tell me where you live. Location matters a lot when it comes to termites. Was the house trenched in the past? If so, when was it done? Sometimes we can treat that mulch, but it depends. Please get back to me and I will do my best to give you good advice. Be well my friend.
Guy, I live in Guam and am pretty confident that I have Formosan Termites. These things are insidious and are persistent. Thankfully my house is built of concrete, so my affected areas are on one corner of the house. The damages are limited to door frames only. That corner of the house, the foundation is not as thick as the house is built on a slope, so I think they found their way through small cracks in the foundation. After ripping out 3 door frames on that corner of the house and treating those areas, I managed to get my hands on Taurus SC, it was difficult as it's not sold in Guam but EBAY is the best. My main concern is that my house has a 3 foot sidewalk all around it. Im worried that i wont get product close enough to the house to kill the colony. Im worried about drilling every 12 inches in concrete because there are plumbing pipes and sewage pipes under parts of the sidewalk. Would I be ok to just trench the peremeter of the entire sidewalk?
Treating directly next to the house is always best, but it should work just fine if you treat around the sidewalk. I have done that before with great success. Just make sure that these are actually Formosan termites and not drywood termites. You have both there. Try to obtain a specimen with a red head and compare it with the photo in the video. Also, keep in mind that Formosan termites like to attack high sometimes and could be in the attic. So, check for damages up there and make sure that they didn't build mud tubes up there to other parts of the house. Finally, make sure that you trench correctly. It is a good idea to watch my video on how to trench correctly. It gives you a much more detailed explanation on trenching than the video you just watched. Formosan termites are bad, so it's worth it to make sure that you are doing the best job possible with the trenching. If you want, you can send photos to me of the sides of you house, so that I can see the sidewalks. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Don't forget to do both sides of the driveway. You will get a full explanation of how everything works in the trenching video. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench correctly: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions thanks for all your help and confirming what I figured as far as species. Thanks for the added tips on treatment as this will save me thousands.
@@Xraydoc1 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Thanks for the helpful video’s
I’ve got a question about spiders repellent on the outside of the house and sheds.
Is there a way to keep them away from lights and windows.
Greetings John
That is actually a very easy problem to solve. I will give you a link to my video on how to take care of it. Just spray any areas where you don't want spiders.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Hello, Sir.. I found termite droppings in my kitchen cabinets and I "treated" with two different termite treatment from home Depot which it didn't work because dropping will come back so after searching I found Taurus SC and I treated all around like in the video and I also treated my cabinets with a syringe in the tiny little bitty holes I didn't see the dropping for couple months then later I saw and still see the droppings but in different of the cabinets.. my house it's on concrete blocks in the video you say that we have to treat around the blocks, do you have a video show how to underneath the house and around the blocks since it's kind of hard since there is not enough space.. And what the name of the foam to inject inside the wall making a whole threw the drywall sheetrock.. I like your videos and Thanks in advance.. Blessing
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it sounds like you have drywood termites. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are a problem. If you live in the red area on the map, then it is a fairly safe bet that you are looking at drywood termites. The only sure way to get rid of a drywood termite infestation is to put a tent around the entire house and fumigate. I do have a video on how to spot treat this yourself, but I do not recommend that you do it, unless you absolutely do not have the money to fumigate. If you decide to fumigate, then watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Prices vary wildly in this industry, so that video can save you a lot of money. Please let me know if you live outside of the red area on the map, because that means that I got it all wrong. I am just going by what you have already told me, which would suggest drywood termites. By the way, if you fumigate, you should know that the gas has no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested immediately after the tent comes down. If you have drywood termites, then so do your neighbors. They swarm every year, so you will get them again within a year. You can prevent this by doing a preventive treatment every 60 to 90 days. I have a video on that as well and I will give you a link.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I wish I had better news for you. Also, I am sorry to recommend watching so many videos, but you really do need to educate yourself on this problem, so that you can make some smart decisions. Be well Teresa.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to higher a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
Hello, Would heat treatment along with trenching work for fomosans? Or would you recommend tent fumigation and trenching? Thanks 🙂
There are some companies that will offer a heat treatment to kill termites, instead of using a fumigation treatment. That sounds good, but the concern I have is that, for this to work, all the cartons in the house must reach a temperature of 120° Fahrenheit for a minimum of 1 hour. Cartons are not a good conductor of heat. Compounding that problem is that there's also insulation in the attic and maybe the walls as well. It is the nature of insulation to prevent the transfer of heat. So, my question is, how do you know that the center of every carton in the house has reached a temperature of 120° Fahrenheit? If they fail to achieve this in just one carton, then it is not going to work. So, I know there are people doing it, but I have some misgivings about it. For that reason, if it were me, I would go with trenching and fumigation. I'm not saying heating won't work. All I'm saying is that I don't trust it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much!
@@wheatwurtzburger6963 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Guy I live in Florida in Formosan area. My home has brick facade. In addition to trenching with the termiticide do I need to drill into facade to get chemicals between bricks and interior walls or do you have another remedy? Thanks so much for your great videos!
The first thing you need to do is make sure that you have Formosan termites and not a more common species. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. If these guys turn out to be subterranean termites that are not Formosan, then all you need to do is trench. However, if they are Formosan termites, then you need to inspect the inside of the house for cartons, as I show in my video on how to eliminate Formosan termites. I do not think it would be necessary to treat behind the brick façade. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Guy, what if you see mud tunnels on the back wall of crawl space but you can't get to them.
Hi. What do you think about deltamethrine? Is it a good pesticide? Especially for wasps?
Deltamethrin is a fine pesticide, but not for termites. As with most pesticides, it works great, if you apply it correctly and use it in the correct form for the target pest. If you buy it in liquid form, it will work for wasps. Apply it to any surfaces where you don't want wasps to build nests. If you spray a nest with it, then the wasps will die within a day. It's not the cheapest way to do it, but it should work. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for the detailed reply. I was also wondering about tolerance to insecticide. Would you recommend switching insecticides to avoid this problem, for example deltamethrine in the spring and some other agent in the late summer or should I stick to delta if it gets the job done? At the moment planning to spray in middle of april and around august or september.
@@Gragon If you are talking about treating Formosan termites, then it's once and you are done. If you are talking about preventing Formosan termites, trenching lasts for at least 5 years, so you could trench ever 5 to 7 years or you can start using termite granules every year starting in year 6. I have a video on how to do that. If you are talking about preventing drywood termites, then please watch my video on the subject. You don't need to rotate products with termites. That is because you are wiping out the colony or immediately killing them, so they cannot become resistant to the pesticide. It is the same with some other kinds of bugs as well, so you need to know the species to know if the little guys will become resistant. I hope that helps.
Video on how to treat termites with granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: th-cam.com/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Sorry I shouldve been more specific. I understand the video is about termites but I was asking with regards to wasps. I want not to have wasps
@@Gragon Wasps will not become resistant to the pesticide. Any pesticide that has a good residual action, that is applied to a surface, will kill any wasps that land on it. If the pesticide is a repellent, then there is a good chance that the wasp will not even land on the surface and it will go elsewhere. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thanks Guy , I’ll do this my self with hubby
Sounds good. Let me know if you have any questions.
By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual.
Be well my friend.
I’ve noticed something eating my indoor laminate flooring along the back wall of my house. Could this be termites? In addition, on that same interior wall, several mud like tubes appeared on the paneling up about 6 ft. I scraped them off and they have not returned. I haven’t seen the actual bugs so I’m not sure what they are. I live in SE Texas included in the dark orange area of your map. Should I start the trenching process? And should I remove the paneling on that wall to inspect the drywall underneath? Or would it be more expedient to order one of those cameras? Last but not least, there is an add on enclosed patio (Wood) on the outside of the wall mentioned above which may be where the problems began. Since we are experiencing extremely hot and unseasonably dry weather, I’m thinking this is the ideal time to treat. Is that correct? What should I do about the flooring? Spray insecticide all up in the damaged area?
First, I am so sorry that I didn't get back to you sooner. For some reason I just got your question this morning. That happens sometimes with TH-cam, but I have no idea why.
If you observed mud tubes, then there's a very good chance that the damage you are seeing is being caused by termites. It is also possible that the species involved are Formosan motion termites, but they could also be a more common species that is not as destructive. One thing is for sure though. You are not going to get rid of them just by removing a mud tube. They will have no problem finding another access point.
All species of subterranean termites can be treated with trenching. Therefore, I recommend that you start with that. After you finish trenching, then you should look for signs of activity inside the house. That is to say, you should look for cartons in the walls and ceiling. The video you watched on Formosan termites will show you how to do this. Hopefully, you dodged a bullet and will not find any cartons in your home. It is very important to check to make sure though.
The temperature outside doesn't make a lot of difference with regard to when you treat. You can spot treat the flooring by using a fipronil foam, but it is probably not necessary if you do the trenching. If you would like to spot treat the floor, you need to drill holes along the entire damaged area that are 4 inches apart and about halfway through the wood. They only need to be wide enough to allow the tip of the applicator can to enter. Usually that's about 1/8 of an inch. So you are only drilling very small holes. After the holes are drilled, you simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds, or until it is coming back out at you, or coming out one or more of the other holes that you drilled. Every hole should have foam either going into it or out of it. If you are not going to replace the flooring, then you may not want to be drilling holes in it for aesthetic reasons. Again, the trenching should take out all of the termites, unless you have cartons. If you have cartons, then you need to find them and eliminate them.
Since your question was delayed by a couple of weeks, I recommend that you email me if you have further questions. The emails are never delayed. My email address is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com.
I hope that helps. Be well Ginny.
Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Guy, do you have a video that will identify species by the leftover wings? I'm taking care of my parents empty house and last month discovered a few dozen wings grouped together right underneath a full size dusk to dawn light mounted in the eave of their detached garage. Wings on the pavement but no sign of the bug bodies. This in central Mobile County 10 miles north of Mobile and I believe is now lately an area that could get dry wood termites. I dont know when the house was last treated. My dad died in 2020 and mom live with my brother out of state. She's 93 and can't remember. House built in 1967 and treated with chlordane then. They had inspections in the past (post chlordane ban) but don't know if retreated with something else but I don't remember them having termites. I've read chlordane can last up to 50 years and beyond. There is no current company calling to come back and inspect, like with a contract. What would you do?
These are most likely drywood termites. These guys fly to your house, so the chlordane treatment will not affect them. You are not seeing the bodies because the wings fall off just before they enter the wood. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and inspect for frass. If you see frass, then you have your answer. The only way to treat them is to fumigate. If you have drywood termites, you should also watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html
I’m love this guy and I own a pest control company lol 😂
Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say that. Very much appreciated. Always good to hear from a fellow pest controller. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com if I can ever be of assistance to you. I get pest controllers contacting me all the time to ask for advice on how to handle something that they have not run into before. I have been doing pest control since 1981, and I still get people showing me things that I have never seen. Just when you think you have seen it all, someone comes up with something really weird. I have run into a lot of stuff though, so let me know if you want to spitball some treatment options for something you are not familiar with. Now that I am assisting the entire world, I have seen some really strange things from other countries. It's fascinating, but it makes me very happy to be living in the US. Be well my friend and thank you so much for your support.
@@GuysPestSolutions I most certainly will!!!
Any tips on how to treat in attic? Is there a spray you recommend for rafters etc? Thanks!
If you have Formosan termites, then you need to see if there are any cartons in the attic. You may find them anywhere, but they are often located between the ceiling joists, and often under the insulation. You need to check the entire house for cartons as well. It is probably a good idea to treat the entire attic with Bora-Care. This is not something that you need to do to get rid of Formosan termites, but it will render all the wood you treat permanently termite proof. You need to mix the Bora-Care 1 to 1 with water, in a 5 gallon bucket, using a drill and paint mixer attachment. They say that you need to use hot water to mix it, but cold water works just fine. After you have it mixed, pour it into a one gallon garden sprayer and simply spray all the wood in the attic. I will give you links to the product and the video I have to use it. Keep in mind that most of the termites are going to die as the result of trenching. If you remove all of the cartons as well, then those two things alone will kill off the entire infestation, so you really do not need to do the Bora-Care treatment. It would be more of an insurance policy, in case you miss a carton in the attic.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care video: th-cam.com/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/w-d-xo.html
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Hello Guy, where I live the water table in the wet winter months is often right up to a few inches below the surface of the soil. Would trenching for Formosa termites still be effective or would the water dissipate the termiticide too quickly?
Dig down 6 inches next to the house. If the hole fills with water, then you have a problem. In that event, I recommend treating with Termidor HE. With this product you only need to trench two inches deep and four inches wide. So, if a two inch deep hole does not fill with water, then this would be your solution. Dig down as deep as you can without hitting water and mix this product 1.6 oz per gallon. Be sure to treat the back fill dirt.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, How long does a professional termite treatment last? They drilled holes in concrete to treat under the porch and in the garage.
I suppose it depends on what product they used to do the treatment, and if they did it correctly. Assuming that they did the job correctly, in the area they treated should last 5 to 10 years. If they only treated under the porch and the garage, then all they did is a spot treatment, and the termites can still attack from another direction. The entire perimeter of the house should have been treated. Sometimes pest controllers offer to do these spot treatments because it's a lot cheaper than treating the entire perimeter of the house, but it is far from a sure thing. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I thought I had just subterranean but it would seem I was incorrect and they are Formosan. I previously trenched with the granules but that was a couple months ago and they are back. I retrenched the area again and I will probably redo it as I rewatched this video and will do 10 foot sections (with taurus SC). I bought the gear to visually check my walls but my fear is that they are actually living in my wood flooring. Thats how i originally spotted them and now I continue to find them there. I started treating a lot of wood and thats why I thought I killed them all but they are back. Is it possible that instead of the walls they are able to live in the flooring? I am thinking I might need to just fumigate unfortunately if that is the case. Thanks so much for all of the help so far!
Formosan termites will definitely eat your wood floors, but they cannot build cartons inside the wood. You will always find the cartons either in the wall voids, or the ceiling voids. If you have a basement or a crawl space, you may find them down there as well. You may also find them in the attic. The termites that eating your floor are either returning to the ground, or they are returning to one of the cartons. The majority of the termites return to the ground. That is because Formosan termite colonies are really large, and it takes a lot of workers to bring food back to the main colony. Therefore, the very first thing you need to do is trench using Taurus SA, as described in the video. Unfortunately, the granules do not work on Formosan termites. After you finish the trenching, then you need to find the cartons. This is not always easy to do, so you need to check out every area where you find moisture with a borescope. Look very carefully because sometimes those cartons can be very thin and hard to spot. Also look for discoloration of the paint, sagging paint, tiny holes in the wall, and that sort of thing. These are all good indications that there could be a carton behind the wall or ceiling.
If you like, you can treat the floor with a fipronil foam. This contains the same active ingredient as the Taurus SC, but the foam will expand to several times its original size, so it will get into a lot of spaces that a liquid cannot reach. Just shoot the foam into any openings in the flooring that were created by the termites. You should shoot the foam in for at least 5 seconds in each area that you treat, or until the foam is coming back out at you. Regardless of where the termites are returning, they will be bringing this material back to either the main colony or the carton. So, this will help ensure that you kill the ones that are attacking your floor. I will give you a link to the product.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Fipronil foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Greetings, Guy! Is there a way to differentiate between eastern subterranean and Formosan subterranean termites by looking at the damaged wood? I see a beam in my crawlspace that has active significant damage. The damage is so severe that I don't want to poke around to find live ones. There are a lot of pellet-like droppings on the concrete pier that the beam should be sitting on. It was once upon a time, but a lot of the wood structure doesn't exist anymore. ... More info: a neighbor's leaking & overflowing water management system has been flooding my crawlspace unbeknownst to me. My yard kept getting flooded, but I didn't know about the crawlspace. Its apparently been very wet because I found wood-destroying fungus, mold, wood rot, and evidence of termites. I've been removing insulation & have added a dehumidifier. I still can't get the neighbor to fix the leaks. I've been trying since 2020!
.....
If I were to treat for Formosan, would that kill possible eastern subs too fast to kill their colony?
Thank you for all you do! You're wonderful & much appreciated!
There is a difference between the way Formosan termites eat wood and other subterranean termites eat wood, but it is probably difficult to tell for the untrained eye. Formosan termites have a kind of tunnel pattern where they create long winding tunnels through the wood, and they leave a thin shell of untouched wood on the outside. Eastern subterranean termites on the other hand have a more random pattern and they do not create as many tunnels. I think most professionals would have a hard time nailing down the species just by looking at these patterns, but it can be done. There are more telltale signs that you have Formosan termites though. For one thing, they seem to create a lot more mud tubes than other subterranean termites. They also create them in places we would not normally expect to find mud tubes. For example, you may find mud tubes on the outside of the home in the eaves. Formosan termites also build cartons in the walls, which allows them to remain in the walls without returning to the ground. They do not limit building these things just to the inside of the walls though. You can find cartons outside of the walls as well, and they can be located under the floors, in the attic, and sometimes right outside the drywall. I have seen them on a number of occasions coming out of the ceilings. The best way though to identify them is to obtain a specimen with a redhead. Do not be afraid to dig into damaged wood because it is not supporting anything anyway. After the termites have done their damage, it's pretty much game over for the structural support of that wood. You can also look for the mud tubes. If you find one, then you can break it open and obtain the specimen that way. Keep in mind that Formosan termites are very destructive and can destroy your home in a matter of months. Therefore, it is very important to determine the species. It sounds like you already watched my video on how to do that, but just in case you didn't, I'll give you a link to it.
The treatment for Formosan termites and other species of subterranean termites is the same, except that for Formosan termites you need to go look for the cartons. For most species, you just need to trench around the exterior of the house and you're good to go. However, if you have mud tubes under the crawl space that are in contact with the ground, then you need to trench under there as well.
The thing that disturbs me though are those pellet-like droppings that you are talking about. Please take a close look at them and see if they are actually shaped like little pellets, or if they look more like sawdust or mud. Subterranean termites do not create pellet droppings. Distinctly shaped pellet droppings would be consistent with drywood termites. The level of damage you are reporting is not typical of drywood termites, but the pellet droppings are. This is another reason why you need to obtain a specimen with a red head.
I hope that helps. Be will my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
I was in the pest control industry in the 90’s. We were warning people back then about the dangers of Formosan and I have never heard of anyone having them. Do people get them, I’m sure they do but I’ve still never heard of anyone.
Yes, they are real and people do get them. They are really nasty too. They like warm weather though, so you don't see them in the north. They exist mostly in southern coastal states, California, and Hawaii. If you watch my video on how to identify termites species, you will find a map in that video that shows areas of the US where they are a problem. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termites species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
I have lived in a south Florida home for 20 years. No termite activity. But home has holes drilled every foot or so in slab all the way around the house. Any thoughts and should I take advantage and inject holes with termite system?
It seems pretty clear that your house was treated for termites before you purchased it. We know that it was done over 20 years ago, so the treatment they did is no longer protecting you. I would not pay to retreat the house, unless you have a termite problem. You cannot do the treatment using these holes yourself. That requires high pressure, rodding equipment. Please let me know if you have concrete around the entire building or if you also have dirt around the building, and just concrete in certain areas. If you like, you can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. If you do that, please give me your TH-cam name and remind me what the problem is. I get a lot of termite questions every day and a lot of them are very similar. Depending upon how everything looks, there may be an easy way to do a preventive treatment.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I thought I had subterranean termites, but I discovered tubes hanging from the ceiling in one room. From what I understand, these are another species that require a moist environment. I am in Arizona, my house is on a slab and my attic is very dry. I can tell that this house had this problem before I purchased it because I found several places where the holes were patched up.
About a year ago I removed the mud tubes, which had live termites, then drilled a hole and sprayed the termite foam exactly as you recommended here. So far I have not seen any sign of activity. Is it possible that I'm safe for now? What can I do to prevent them from coming back, if anything? I didn't look closely at the termites, so I have no idea of the species.
You are correct that you had subterranean termites. You often see mud tubes hanging from the ceiling with subterranean termites in Arizona. I never recommend spot treating alone for any species of termites. That being said, it can work, if it is done correctly. So, it is possible that you killed off the entire colony, but I cannot guarantee that without inspecting. Just to be sure, I think I would follow up with trenching around the house or just applying termite granules. You may also want to consider monitoring stations. You can make them yourself for about 50 cents each and do the entire house for under $25. I will give you the link to that video. I use the granules every year and I use the monitoring stations as well.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: Unbelievable DIY Termite Treatment...NO Trenching Required
Video on how to make monitoring stations: Unbelievable Water Bottle Trick for Termites! Simple to do!
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you! I already watched those videos and ordered the granules that you recommended, which is due to arrive today.
I've also been collecting plastic bottles and will be making monitoring stations and placing them 4 feet apart to see if I missed any termites. If so, then I will be trenching.
Is it good to treat a house that had termited in the past, but doesn't exaclty show signs on termited currently? The house I live in had termited treated 7 years ago, but I am wanting to ensure a future infestation doesn't occur again.
If the house was trenched, that treatment will last between 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being the average. So, you are getting to the point where you should consider starting a preventive treatment. Termite granules can often be a good choice. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider other options.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. You can also buy monitoring stations that are already made. They cost between $10 to $15 each. Do not place them any further apart than 8 feet.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
If there are tubes from dry termites, will the formosan spray work on the tubes? And would application be the same?
Drywood termites do not produce mud tubes. They fly to your house and colonize in the wood. Formosan termites do build mud tubes because they are subterranean and mostly colonize in the ground, although they can build "cartons" in your walls that allows them not to return to the ground. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Be well Candace.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Hi. Will they build cartons in a wall with fiberglass insulation?
Yes. Formosan termites couldn't care less if a wall is insulated. I hope that helps. Be well Liz.
How about flying termites? We have them in our home and little guest home. We are not on a cement foundation but pilons. Probably in the barn too. It's an old home. We live in florida.
How you handle that will depend on the species. You have three different species of termites where you live and they each get treated differently. The granules only work for subterranean termites. You could also have drywood or Formosan termites. So, you need to start by determining the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
What if I can't get a hold of Taurus SC or fipronil foam? Is imidacloprid (i.e. the termite killer granules and BioAdvanced Termite Killer Foam) a suitable replacement?
Yes. An imidacloprid foam like Premise or Fuse are fine to use. Fuse even has some fipronil in it as well. You can also trench with imidacloprid products like Premise 2 or Dominion 2L.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Couldn’t you spray the foam on and into the carton to kill the termites instead of ripping off the walls and removing the carton?
There is some chance that could work, but it is not a sure thing. Cartons are not always nice, neat packages in the wall. They can take up the entire wall void, several wall voids, or even be in your ceiling. It is not unusual to remove the drywall and discover that there are cartons that you missed with the moisture meter. So, you start to remove the drywall where you think the carton is, and then you find yourself removing more and more of the drywall to disclose even more cartons. They do not always fill the wall void either. You may detect moisture behind the wall, but the actual carton does not cover the entire wall void. It may just be running along one of the studs and you may miss it entirely if you try to shoot foam in there, without actually seeing what you're doing. That is why removing the drywall is the preferred procedure. Trying to treat the cartons with a foam is a Hail Mary Pass at best. I know that is not what you want to hear, but Formosan termites are really bad.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How long will this treatment last. Months or years.
The Taurus SC will last 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being the average. Pest controllers claim 10 years, but that is the outside of the envelope. After 5 years, you can switch to termite granules every year for about $50 per application and an hour of work. No trenching needed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Please do a video on bumblebees. I’ve gotten stung 2x these last few yrs. They hurt & I’m highly allergic. I jumped off lawnmower & ran. Some continued chasing me while stinging my head. Thank you sir!
Are you sure that these are bees and not yellow jackets. I think it is illegal in most states to kill honey bees, and they are usually not aggressive. When they start coming after you, then you could be looking at African bees, but you are most likely looking at yellow jackets. These guys build their nests in the ground, and they will swarm you. Unlike honey bees that can only sting once, these guys can sting you over and over again. After they sting you once, they leave behind a pheromone, and that directs the rest of the yellow jackets right to you. These things can literally sting you to death. It is very likely that, when you were mowing the lawn, you mowed right over a yellow jacket nest. You were very smart to run. So, if this is the case, the way you treat it is somewhat scary. Protect yourself as much as you can by wearing heavy clothing that will be hard for them to sting through. Also, try to make a sting proof head covering. You can sometimes make this out of a wide brimmed hat and just tape screening of some sort around the entire hat with some duct tape. Then just duck tape the screen to your clothing, so they cannot get it. You may also want to wear work gloves. Get a can of orange, fluorescent, spray paint. Wait until dusk. The yellow jackets will always return to the nest in the evening because they cannot fly at night. Keep an eye out for where they are entering the ground. You can do this from a fairly safe distance. When you locate the exact spot where the hole is, then run over there and spray a small X right across the hole, or make a small circle around it, and run like hell. There is a good chance they will not be able to come after you because it is getting too dark for them, but do not take chances. Have a safe place to run to. If your house is too far away, then park the car on the lawn fairly close to the hole, but a safe distance for observation. After it gets dark, the yellow jackets can no longer fly. So, get a flashlight, locate the nest entrance hole and treat it with D-Fense dust. The container has kind of a spout on it. Just stick that spout into the hole and squeeze the container to blow as much dust into the hole as you can. The container spout will seal up the hole, so you will be safe until you pull it out. It is unlikely that they will come after you at night, but run when you pull out the spout, just to be on the safe side. How is that for an exciting adventure? I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html
Those weren't bumblebees. Bumblebees are not aggressive at all. I pick them up & let them walk on me. They are highly protected because they are the bees that humans rely on for global food security.
What you described sounds like yellow jackets.
Hey sir. So the T-SC is used for both sub & formosan Termites?
Yes. The Taurus SC works for all subterranean species. The only thing is that, with Formosan termites, you also need to check the house for cartons. You cannot treat cartons with Taurus SC. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Great video ,,, please helllp I have a infection in my boat what I can do I just purchased this Taurus sc I was recommended to put a piece a wood to make then come out please help thanks
I need a little more information. Please tell me where you live and if the boat is in the water or just sitting on a trailer on your property. Also, please describe the boat to me. How large is it. Is it made completely out of wood. Where are you seeing the activity? If the boat is on a trailer, are you seeing mud tubes? Please get back to me and we can try to come up with a solution. Be well my friend.
Florida , sitting on trailer , cuddly cabin , 21’ is made parts of wood and the cabin ,, no mud tube I see on the floor the black ones with wings thank you thank youuuuu
@@gherickb8181 Thank you for that information. If they are solid black with wings, then they are most likely either subterranean termites or carpenter ants. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species to make sure that I am correct about the species. Also watch my video on how to tell the difference between ants and termites to make sure that these guys are actually termites. Meanwhile, move the boat. You don't need to move it far. About 20 feet will do. If you are moving it to lawn or dirt, then dig up an area 6 inches deep where the tires and the hitch stand will touch the ground. The holes should be wide enough to create at least a 6 inch wide perimeter around anything that touches the ground, like the tires and the hitch stand. Buy a 20 oz bottle of Taurus SC. Mix it 0.8 ounces per gallon of water in a 5 gallon bucket. After the holes are dug, pour about a gallon in each hole. Fill in each hole with about 3 inches of dirt and soak it again with the Taurus SC. Then fill in the holes all the way and soak it again with the Taurus SC. Next, mix some Taurus SC in pump up garden sprayer and spray all surfaces of the tires and the hitch stand. You can also use the sprayer to treat the backfill dirt if you like. If you find out that these are NOT subterranean termites or carpenter ants, then there is no need to move the boat. Just get back to me and I will explain what to do. Also, let me know if these are carpenter ants because they will need additional treatment.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to tell the difference between ants and termites: th-cam.com/video/enJPS-h70Bs/w-d-xo.html
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Yes the are 100% eastern subterranean I forgot to mention they eat my subwoofer box 😆
@@gherickb8181 That's great news. Just move the trailer and treat the dirt as I described and you will be good to go. Eastern subs must return to the soil or they will die. When you move the trailer, they will become exposed to the air if they exit and that will kill them. If they stay, they will dehydrate to death. Any new termites will be forced to cross that barrier you created under the wheels and hitch stand. That's all there is to it. Check your house for an infestation. They could be there as well.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Does fipronil have alternatives ? Such as the bioadvanced granules, beta cyfluthrin ( bio advanced termite liquid, tirade ultra sc) , or bifinthrin ;
The beta-cyfluthrin granules or liquid does not work. You can get the BioAdvanced granules that use imidacloprid, but they are not recommended for Formosan termites. They are fine for other species of subterranean termites though. For Formosan termites, you need to trench using fipronil or imidacloprid liquid. So, you can use Taurus SC or Premise 2. Bifenthrin is not a good choice for the same reason beta-cyfluthrin is not a good choice. These products kill too fast. You need to give the termites time to bring the pesticide back to the colony, so you need a very slow kill product.
By the way, I am on vacation, and I only get internet some of the time. I will be back after June 11, and I will be able to answer follow up questions then.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I watched a lot off your video I am in South Florida I don't see any signs inside the house but they start eating my back door also I find a peach tree infested I dig around All the roots was full of termites I pull everything with the truck out from the ground and I burned everything I am sure is some more now I put a plastic bag next to a light bulb outside and they get in there sometime but is hard to tell what spice is when I dig the tree out every roots was roddet and about 1ft in the ground any advice
I wish you had contacted me before you removed the tree. You could have used that tree to eliminate the colony. Please don't beat yourself up too much about doing that though because most people would do the same thing. The problem is that now the termites are going to find a new food source, and that may end up being your home. So, since we cannot fight them at the tree right now, then we need to make certain that they are not in your home.
They may be attacking your home without you realizing it. So, I would like you to do a full inspection of the building. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you the link to it. If you do not find any evidence of termites in your home, then you need to do something to prevent them. If there are termites in your home, then you are going to need to treat them. Which way you go with this is going to depend on the outcome of that inspection. Before you do the inspection, see if you can find a termite where the tree used to be, that may still be eating some of the leftover roots. You need to find one that has a red head. If you can find one like that, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Please get back to me and let me know that you found one. At that point we can easily identify it. Knowing the species is very helpful because different species get treated differently. If we do not know the species, then we need to basically treat as if you have them all. You also said that you get some in a plastic bag. Please try to get one of those as well, so that we can have a look at it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to inspect your home for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
Hey guy How do Formosan termites get the moisture in the cartons if they do not return to the ground?
That is a very good question. Formosan termites only live in warm, humid climates. I am not sure that it is fully understood how the cartons obtain enough moisture to keep the termites alive, but I suspect that most of the moisture is obtained from the atmosphere. That is to say, the humidity in the air. I think that some of the moisture is brought with the termites from the ground as well. Sometimes, there may be a leak in the roof, walls, or plumbing that will also provide moisture. It is also unclear how long a carton will survive after the main colony in the ground has been eliminated. I think that will depend upon the moisture conditions in the environment where the infestation is located. I suspect that, if there is a sufficient moisture content available, then the carton can survive for quite some time. That is why it is typically recommended to remove the cartons. I can tell you that a lot of pest controllers don't even bother with the cartons. Either they don't know that those cartons can go on surviving for a long time, or they just don't want to do that part of the job. A lot of companies don't even look for the cartons. For me, I think the cartons definitely need to be located and removed because the cartons have the potential to maintain life for quite some time and Formosan termites are very fast eaters. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Where do you trench when the house has a crawl space under the house
You need to inspect under the crawl space. If you see mud tubes that are in contact with the ground, then you need to trench under the crawl space around the entire perimeter of the house. You also need to trench on the outside of the house around the entire perimeter as well. If there are no mud tubs in contact with the ground under the house, then all you need to do is trench around the outside of the house.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
My very rotted pole barn has termites. One of the poles has holes and looks like there’s a nest inside. Does that mean it’s Formosan? Or the usual subterraneans can make nests in rotted wood as well? I can only find the worker termites under wood. I hear clicking of them chewing but no rattling I think the soldier do that. It’s pretty far from my house maybe 50ft but maybe it’s a good idea to kill them before demolishing it?
Formosan termites no not colonize in wood that is above the ground. Neither do other species of subterranean termites. The only species that does that are drywood termites. If you are only seeing the workers, then there's a good chance that these guys are subterranean and the colony is most likely located under the ground somewhere, within a 300 foot radius of the barn. I would definitely recommend treating them before you tear down the barn. You can trench around the barn or you can try to spot treat the areas where you are seeing the activity. Please let me know if you would like the procedure for spot treating, and I will give it to you in writing.
I recommend that you inspect your home for termites. I also recommend that you take some sort of preventive measures to protect your home of termites. You can place monitoring stations around the house, or you may be able to use granules around the house. Personally, I do both.
For the granules to work, you need to have dirt around most of the house, and that dirt needs to be porous enough so that water will leach into it. You can do a simple test to see if your dirt is porous enough by simply digging a shallow hole right next to the foundation that is 4 inches deep and about 8 to 12 inches long. Just the width of the shovel is all you need. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes for it to seep down into the ground. If it drains down into the ground reasonably well, then the granules should work fine for you. The granules may also work for the barn as well.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. There are two versions of them now. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the right ones, but you can still get them from Amazon. I will give you a link. I will also give you a link to my video on how to apply the granules.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to use termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_5&=&crid=2P2TMXP7SR4W8&=&sprefix=termi
Thank you for the response. I only saw workers under a stack of wood under the pole barn. But maybe it is drywood térmites in the actual pole barn because there is definitely some kind of nest inside the wood. I hear lots of clicking noises. It sounds like it’s everywhere. It’s an open structure so could I put borecare or the spot treatment in all the wood? I also wouldn’t mind just burning it down the wood looks really bad.
When I removed the wooden border and mulch in front of my house luckily there was no termites just a lot of the small black ants. No frass, mud tubes, wings or holes in the house I’ve found. I do hear clicking in the walls maybe it’s normal. Not nearly as much clicking noises as the pole barn. I used the granules you recommended and will eventually do the drywood termite prevention you mentioned in a different video
Also got a moisture meter and borescope I’ll use eventually
Can I use Ortho Dial & Spray hose end sprayer to apply Taurus SC for termites?
You cannot treat Formosan termites with a hose end sprayer. You must trench around the house. After trenching, you need to inspect for cartons inside. These guys are very aggressive eaters, so you need to do it correctly.
By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11.
Be well my friend.
Makes a person want to stay in the north. Maybe snow isn't so bad after all.
Scary! Right? These guys are easy to prevent though. People just need to take Formosan termites seriously and do a preventive treatment every year. It takes less than an hour and only costs $50, but many folks don't do it. It's a bit like never brushing your teeth and being surprised when you find out that you have cavities. You know. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure sort of thing. Be well my friend.
I have a tree where we have bait stations pop up how do I get rid of them I also poured that solution termatcide and went around the tree with
It sounds like you are using the Spectraside Termite Stakes. Unfortunately, these are pretty much useless against termites. I did a video on them recently, and I will give you a link to it.
Please be aware that the only species of termites that eat live wood are Formosan termites. These guys are very aggressive eaters and can destroy your house very quickly. Therefore, it is important that you identify the species. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Don't worry. It's not that hard.
Meanwhile, you can try to treat the tree. This is something of a Hair Mary Pass, but you can try drilling holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90 degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart, and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well.
Please get back to me after you identify the species.
Be well my friend.
Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: th-cam.com/video/UDzg-1lpynA/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
What would do you for a Powderpost Beattle infestation?
The first thing you need to do is make sure that these are actually powderpost beetles. Most of the time you're going to find these guys in a crawlspace. If you are certain that is what's going on, then the treatment for that is to apply Bora-Care to all the wood surfaces in the crawlspace. It is possible to find them in areas other than the crawlspace, but that is usually where we see them. I do not have a video on how to treat powderpost beetles, but it's pretty simple. You just mix Bora-Care 1 to 1 with water in a 5 gallon bucket. To mix it you need to use a drill with a paint mixer attachment. Mix the product together with water until it comes to a watery consistency. Pour it into a one gallon garden sprayer, and spray all the wood in the affected areas. This is a permanent treatment that will protect you from all species of wood destroying insects. I will give you a link to a video on how to use the product and a link to the product. Bora-Care can clog up a sprayer pretty fast, so I recommend buying the cheapest sprayer you can find. Just throw the sprayer away when you are done. Also, they will tell you that you need to mix it with hot water, but cold water works just fine.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to apply Bora-Care: How to Use BORA-CARE Borate Wood Treatment
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Good Lord, I forgot I owned a borescope. I haven't used ever since I retired.
I know the feeling. I have all sorts of tools that I forgot I had until I am looking for something else and I run into them. So, that's where I put that. Be well my friend.
I noticed piled dirt by my front door & on the side of my garage. How should I treat this ?
Piled dirt, or frass?
The first thing you need to do is figure out what is causing it. The easiest way to do that is to call a pest controller. Almost all of them will do a free inspection and tell you what is going on. Make sure they list the exact species on the estimate. They will want to sell you the job, but you don't have to hire them. Just thank them for their time and let them know that you will think it over. You can also dig into the area where you are seeing this piled dirt to see if you can find a specimen. I usually use a flathead screwdriver. Put the specimen in a jar and let it die. Then you can take it out and have a good look at it. If possible, try to get one with a red head. I have a video on how to identify termite species and I will give you a link to it. Most likely, this is a termite situation. Different species of termites need to be treated differently, so identifying the species is important. Please get back to me after you have them identified and I can guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
Thank you so much. That was so thoughtful of you. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy,.are the Formosan termites also known as Asian Subterreanean termites?
Not exactly. They are not exactly the same, but cut from the same cloth. I believe Formosan termites are a subspecies of Asian termites. They hail from different areas of the world, but both are very destructive. They look very similar and would be hard to tell apart. I have never encountered Asian termites, but I would treat them the same way.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
What could be the possible origin of the name "Formosan Termite" ?
Formosan termites got their name from the island of Formosa, which is now known as Taiwan. They were first described in Taiwan in the early 1900s, and they are thought to be native to southern China and Taiwan. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You have a great utube channel, One suggestion . Keep videos to 10 to 12 minutes. Videos too long lose viewers. Attention spans are short.
I get that a lot, but my goal is not to get views. I don't do it for the money. I do it to educate people on how to eliminate the problem. So, my view is, watch it or don't watch it. If you want to solve the problem, then watch it. If you don't have the time or patience, then I am okay with that too. I do talk slow and I'm okay with that too. It took years for me to learn how to do this stuff and it takes about an hour to produce just one minute of video. So, if I can take the time to learn how to do it and then make the video, I think the viewer can take the time to watch it. Hey, it's free, and I will also take an hour sometimes to answer just one question. The way I see it is, if I can take the time to explain everything clearly and answer questions completely, then the people who need the information can take the time to watch the video. I love people and I love helping them, but it's a two way street. If I am willing to put in the time, then the people I help should do the same. I think it's only fair. Be well my friend.
you can skip parts or just speed up the video. Its better long and detailed than short and incomplete.
If you drill 10 holes every 4 inches inside of carton of termites an inject inside 5-6 oz fipronil or fipronil foam this will not kill colony inside carton?
I'm thinking probably yes, but I don't know for sure. The industry standard is to remove the carton. I have not tried to treat a carton inside the wall. So, it's something you could try. Just keep in mind that these guys are very aggressive eaters and can do a lot of damage. Also, one of the reasons we remove the drywall is to assess the damage and make sure that we can see the entire area of the carton. The borescope can only take you so far. If it were my house, I would probably give it a try, but I am a risk taker at heart. So, you need to decide how much risk you are willing to take. If you do it, then please let me know how it works out. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions You think any Formosan termites live in Sacramento area?
@@johnjohnson-pf4kw Yes. You do have them there. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's easier than you may think. Hopefully, you don't have Formosan termites. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank You for reply. You think if house build in 1951 from the red wood it may help to resist for termite?
Termites do not like red wood, but they will attack it sometimes. It definitely helps. Be well my friend.
What if they are in an apartment
That is something that the property owner needs to handle. My advice is to call the landlord and make them aware of the situation. If this is Formosan termites, they can destroy the entire building in a matter of months. Be well my friend.
Advice for turmites in my sink and tube?
The only kind of termites that you should ever find in your sinks or tubs would be swarmers. That is because termites do not live long if they are exposed to the air. Swarmers are an exception because they are looking to start another colony. You will know that these guys are swarmers because they have wings. The first thing you need to do is to identify the species because different species get treated differently. Also, make sure these guys are actually termites and not something else. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and see if these guys look like the photos in that video. Also, have a look to see if you live in an area where drywood and Formosan termites are known to exist. Please get back to me after you have identified the species, and I can guide you further.
Be well my friend.
Hello guy…just finished a few of your videos and I’m in desperate need of help …I’ve been hit twice that I know of and I won’t have peace of mind with the these pest control people already drilled my house twice and tested new construction and the termites ate the same exact wall they treated…. Is there anyway we can exchange numbers and we can speak over the phone so I can explain everything that has happened and what to do about it… I’ll be happy to give you my number if that’s something you are willing to do… thank you🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. If you can, please attach a copy of the contract that you have with the pest control company. I would like to see what they think is going on. Let me know the best time to call. Be well my friend.
That’s exactly what I wanted to talk to you about the company lied to me and it’s a very ridiculously crooked situation but I didn’t want to bash the pest company on social platform …they dont have the contract and they evidently didn’t file it with the state agriculture department either…but I’ll try emailing you and hopefully we can talk on the phone thank you very much
@@jkmcontender27 You are very welcome. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.
Great video. I purchased a home that previously had termites. Was going to call pest control for a treatment until I happened to see your cockroach video.
Enjoy your retirement.
Hello guy should I apply Taurus SC expected rain or during dry weather?
It's probably best not to apply any pesticide in the rain. I would wait for a day when it is not raining. After you have the trench filled in, then it can rain all it wants. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.