Hi... Dissapointng to see your awning bag leaking and the issues your having with the retreat annex. I've been looking at awnings for months now. I have a GU Patrol with rear door access, a 270 would provide great shelter to the side and rear. I have a off road camper trailer, so would not be needing a retreat annex. That said... the problems you are experiencing is obviously frustrating. Thanks for sharing. I'll hold off on buying from Drache until the issue with the awning bag leaking is rectified. Good luck.
Hi Christopher Murphy, Yes it is disappointing and Darche did respond when I reached out to them and Darche confirmed it is a design issue. I did the same and due to the rear door set up on mine, the Darche config suited my coverage requirements. The 23Zero was my second choice. Wish it was my first to be honest ...
It almost needs a dome pole in the guts! Like the dome pole used in our Hannibal RTT that keeps the annex roof from touching your head when you go up and down the ladde!
You probably have the solution by now. But you could’ve gotten yourself some pin rings from any of the tents that use the Flexi collapse poles. Attach down the guts on both sides and cut the collapsible Flexi pole to suit making sure there’s enough flex facing up. It wouldn’t need much
Thanks Felipe, the flex poles would need to be > 2400mm long and whilst is sounds good in theory wont work, there isn't enough give in the awning material to support such a bend required over that distance. Appreciate the input. Cheers
I have a Fiamma awning on the camper and used the fiamma curved awning bar I have so that it was positioned from the car to the front of the annex pole. Whilst it does kind of work, its not a fix.
Would a supa peg awning spreader bar between the 2 poles coming off the awning work? It has an arch so it would give the section of the awning above the tent a pitch.
Hi Nick, Yes it would. I used my Fiamma curved spreader bar (which is fatter and much stronger off our camper awning) as a trial and it does indeed provide an option, however it is at a cost ... the pressure of the bar against the horizontal Darche front bar is substantial and causes the bar to bend down, pushing against mounting points which I can see doing more damage than its worth. It also puts "strain" on the Velcro attachments for the awning poles. One thing I am trying is a modified curved bar that goes parallel to the awning mount points which seems to reduce the stress significantly but then directs water back toward the vehicle.... work in progress with that one. Cheers
How does it sit if you leave the spreader bar out and just clip the annex corners to the vertical poles of the awning, leaving the middle two unattached?
Hi Taresk, We tried that recently and in the wind I was seriously worried it would tear the front of the annex. It's unfortunately required and Darche have also confirmed its needed when setting up. It also ensures the floor is positioned correctly too with the tension the hooks create, plus it also means you can use the door way as an entrance and the zips work without issue. Plus it looks like crap without it! Otherwise it could be removed altogether :-) and that would resolve all the problems. Cheers
Hi Glen, If you read some of the previous response you will note I have and this also doesnt work. There is an option to put 3 curved bars however water still pools and whilst it is an effective way to address the issue, it does not resolve it.
Hi Aston, Over time and use the awning fabric has stretched a bit so the amount you need to lower the run off point gets worse. eg, when new, I would have an approx 3-4 inch dip in the run off point. I'm >6ft and could walk under the awning with the rain points tied down no worries. Now, I can't. My head touches the awning, or in case of the two larger sides, I have to duck to get under the awning or my head hits the roof. The dip for the run off is about 8-10 inches. The tailgate also touches the awning when in heavy rain now. Save some more money up and buy a different brand... I won't be keeping with this brand on the next car. As a shade provider they are great and that's about their limit. In our experience.
Hi Sir, this is Dani from Indonesia. I also buy the same awning with retreat. Have you found the easiest solution? For me, I put a flysheet on top of the awning.
Hi, no I havent got a solution just yet. Other than go camping when there is no rain :-). Putting a fly over the awning kinda defeats the purpose of having an awning, however it would work. cheers
it would need a significant bend in the bar to enable sufficient droop, approx 4 inches is required and just not possible because then the tent is not taught and flaps in the breeze.
Hi, Tried the rope on first install, though I was doing something wrong at first :-) Unfortunately this is not a real option as it puts way to much stress on the awning flap itself
Hi Nigel, yep tried that, possibly the best solution so far and the curved bar kinda helps, however there are pros and cons. The main con is fitting it, there is no fitting against the main side of the awning mount, ie the aluminium piece where the arms fit in the bag, the second, the round spreader bar that holds the annex room on flexes. cheers
I think Darche product engineer, wake up one day, and think... Hey, let's make people live worse when they going out for camping... let's build an expensive awning and annex that won't stand even a mild rain... then if something bad happened (as we predicted), let's blame them... instead of blaming the fact that we don't use our brain when we develop the product.
Hi JB, Tried that. So my question is how to attach the front of the annex to get the tension required to square up the sides and enable the windows to open easily? The two loops and clips enable that and stops ballooning in the wind as well as the sag. Tried with out the bar and its a Sh!t show. Especially at night and there is the slightest of breezes. Have you got any pics of your set up with out the bar fitted? I've used it a couple of times without the bar and provided you don't want to use the front as an enterance, it kinda works. Keen to see how your is set up. Cheers
Hi... Dissapointng to see your awning bag leaking and the issues your having with the retreat annex. I've been looking at awnings for months now. I have a GU Patrol with rear door access, a 270 would provide great shelter to the side and rear. I have a off road camper trailer, so would not be needing a retreat annex. That said... the problems you are experiencing is obviously frustrating. Thanks for sharing. I'll hold off on buying from Drache until the issue with the awning bag leaking is rectified. Good luck.
Hi Christopher Murphy, Yes it is disappointing and Darche did respond when I reached out to them and Darche confirmed it is a design issue. I did the same and due to the rear door set up on mine, the Darche config suited my coverage requirements. The 23Zero was my second choice. Wish it was my first to be honest ...
It almost needs a dome pole in the guts! Like the dome pole used in our Hannibal RTT that keeps the annex roof from touching your head when you go up and down the ladde!
yes, a curved spreader pole may be the quick solution, :-)
You probably have the solution by now. But you could’ve gotten yourself some pin rings from any of the tents that use the Flexi collapse poles. Attach down the guts on both sides and cut the collapsible Flexi pole to suit making sure there’s enough flex facing up. It wouldn’t need much
Thanks Felipe, the flex poles would need to be > 2400mm long and whilst is sounds good in theory wont work, there isn't enough give in the awning material to support such a bend required over that distance. Appreciate the input. Cheers
You can add a curved 55mm rafter, similar to that of super peg awning as an addition extra.
Thats a bout the only way to do it. Weve tested with one and it did the job ok. cheers
Can you share the detail, Sir?
I have a Fiamma awning on the camper and used the fiamma curved awning bar I have so that it was positioned from the car to the front of the annex pole. Whilst it does kind of work, its not a fix.
Would a supa peg awning spreader bar between the 2 poles coming off the awning work? It has an arch so it would give the section of the awning above the tent a pitch.
Hi Nick, Yes it would. I used my Fiamma curved spreader bar (which is fatter and much stronger off our camper awning) as a trial and it does indeed provide an option, however it is at a cost ... the pressure of the bar against the horizontal Darche front bar is substantial and causes the bar to bend down, pushing against mounting points which I can see doing more damage than its worth. It also puts "strain" on the Velcro attachments for the awning poles. One thing I am trying is a modified curved bar that goes parallel to the awning mount points which seems to reduce the stress significantly but then directs water back toward the vehicle.... work in progress with that one. Cheers
How does it sit if you leave the spreader bar out and just clip the annex corners to the vertical poles of the awning, leaving the middle two unattached?
Hi Taresk, We tried that recently and in the wind I was seriously worried it would tear the front of the annex. It's unfortunately required and Darche have also confirmed its needed when setting up. It also ensures the floor is positioned correctly too with the tension the hooks create, plus it also means you can use the door way as an entrance and the zips work without issue. Plus it looks like crap without it! Otherwise it could be removed altogether :-) and that would resolve all the problems. Cheers
Have you thought about a curved centre bar
Hi Glen, If you read some of the previous response you will note I have and this also doesnt work. There is an option to put 3 curved bars however water still pools and whilst it is an effective way to address the issue, it does not resolve it.
Without the annex, if you peg down the run off points, is there still any issues with pooling? Im considering buying the 270 on its own
Hi Aston, Over time and use the awning fabric has stretched a bit so the amount you need to lower the run off point gets worse. eg, when new, I would have an approx 3-4 inch dip in the run off point. I'm >6ft and could walk under the awning with the rain points tied down no worries. Now, I can't. My head touches the awning, or in case of the two larger sides, I have to duck to get under the awning or my head hits the roof. The dip for the run off is about 8-10 inches. The tailgate also touches the awning when in heavy rain now. Save some more money up and buy a different brand... I won't be keeping with this brand on the next car. As a shade provider they are great and that's about their limit. In our experience.
Hi Sir, this is Dani from Indonesia. I also buy the same awning with retreat. Have you found the easiest solution? For me, I put a flysheet on top of the awning.
Hi, no I havent got a solution just yet. Other than go camping when there is no rain :-). Putting a fly over the awning kinda defeats the purpose of having an awning, however it would work. cheers
@@dirtbnb8863 Hahaha yes correct it's super weird. However that's the best way for me so far. Thanks for sharing
Hi, what about mounting the annex spread bar lower on awning poles so you can pull awning down ?drill holes in them. Cheers john
Unfortunately that is not an option. Nice idea but it would need to be 15-18cm lower for the water to run off the annex....
put a spring in the spearer bar, tighten the rope to guide the water down fro the roof?
No possible at all. Bar is fixed and not an option.
Soaked Cotton rope laid over the section in question, tied from roof rack to peg in ground.
Let the water wick off.
Just theory.
thanks dave
What about shaping the spreader bar in a slight V ? Would it be a possible option?
it would need a significant bend in the bar to enable sufficient droop, approx 4 inches is required and just not possible because then the tent is not taught and flaps in the breeze.
or the rope go under the spreader bar to give it more room to tighten the rope?
Hi, Tried the rope on first install, though I was doing something wrong at first :-) Unfortunately this is not a real option as it puts way to much stress on the awning flap itself
grab yourself a drifter curved awning
spreader bar it will lift and hold the awning up when it level
Hi Nigel, yep tried that, possibly the best solution so far and the curved bar kinda helps, however there are pros and cons. The main con is fitting it, there is no fitting against the main side of the awning mount, ie the aluminium piece where the arms fit in the bag, the second, the round spreader bar that holds the annex room on flexes. cheers
Maybe can you install 2 more spreader bars
Thanks Greg but that only make it worse and more water pools.... been caught in a couple of really wet trips away and it just doesn't work.
Should be a recall
I think Darche product engineer, wake up one day, and think... Hey, let's make people live worse when they going out for camping... let's build an expensive awning and annex that won't stand even a mild rain... then if something bad happened (as we predicted), let's blame them... instead of blaming the fact that we don't use our brain when we develop the product.
This is a great concept and works really well, just not when it rains :-)
Mate don’t put the support bar up they don’t need it
Hi JB, Tried that. So my question is how to attach the front of the annex to get the tension required to square up the sides and enable the windows to open easily? The two loops and clips enable that and stops ballooning in the wind as well as the sag. Tried with out the bar and its a Sh!t show. Especially at night and there is the slightest of breezes. Have you got any pics of your set up with out the bar fitted? I've used it a couple of times without the bar and provided you don't want to use the front as an enterance, it kinda works. Keen to see how your is set up. Cheers
No excuse for this poor run off
just poor design