Great video. I’m in the same boat of trying to white my red oak. I’m considering doing 2 passes of red out and 2 of Nordic seal after seeing your video. I’m having a professional do it but it was great seeing you tackle this
This looks great. We have red oak and were considering doing red oak and then natural because we were worried nordic had a grey tint but i didn't see any grey on yours it looks very light and natural. Pics didn't always evaluate actual color though perfectly does nordic leave some grey or not with the red oak? -thanks great video
Thank you! My understanding is that the belt sander gets rid of more material quicker, so if used correctly, it may result in a more perfect result. You can probably get similar results with an orbital sander, but it takes much more sanding to get there. For me, I wanted to remove the bare minimum amount of wood, and I was worried about gouging my floors with a belt sander, so the orbital sander was the right choice for me.
Can you tell me how long you waiting after the first coat of the finisher to do that light sanding? I’m assuming 2-3 hours but my question is that the bona product i want to use gives you a 3 hour work time before you can no longer use it so I’d have to buy 2 bottles and it’s pretty pricey.
I waited overnight, but I don't think you necessarily need to mix the full bottle at once. You can mix half the bottle with the hardener. I believe the bottle has instructions for what ratio to use when mixing less than the full bottle.
I heard this as well, so I used a paint roller and very thin coats to apply it, which made it a lot easier (and the results are not streaky). in some of their videos, they seem to use much more product, which may be harder to work with.
I saw you use a nail gun for the replacement board. I have similar need. Did you just use a finishing nail gun? Trying to avoid buying a hardwood nail gun that I see the commercial installers use.
I was trying to avoid buying the special nailgun as well :). Yes, I used a finishing nail gun and tilted it at an angle. It worked well for me and secured the boards well to the subfloor. Just don't forget to wear safety glasses!
I like how it ended up and don’t see any obvious lines, but if you want a more perfect finish, you can continue to sand deeper into the wood and use a higher final grit before sealing 😊. Happy sanding.
@@tomthompson7400 I see what you mean, but to me honest, it’s not noticeable in person, especially after I applied all the products to it. Also, I’d rather have a faint zebra than remove more wood 😊. But thank you for letting me know. I’m sure a few more passes with the orbital sander would have bypassed this.
@@olgabuilds its hard to get rid of ,,, but as you say most will never see it ,,, finer grit wouldnt have solved it , a different size sander is the easier answer ,,,
I'm flooring contractor. You tried hard! Saved some money etc.. but after a.season of expansion.and.contraction that newly installed area will not stand the test of time. Using a Brad nailer to fasten those sections down will not hold. You should of rented a.flooring stapler or cleat gun. Best of luck and.fair job!
I never understood the saying "flooring specialist charge too much." When you go into the dentist, and they charge you $2000 and only see you for roughly an hour. You don't pay for time, you pay for skill. All in all, it may not be perfect, but nobody is. Kudos for making it to the finish line.
Not too bad of a job but definitely not a professional job. I've been doing floors for over 30 years and there was a lot of extra work that you did , if you used the proper sanding tools you could have saved you a lot of time. There was a lot of chatter marks and all. Of the old finish was not completely removed . I don't use a roller ,I prefer an applicator, but good try though.
From my understanding, it would have been over 10K to hire someone, which is well over my budget. So it's DIY or nothing. Unless you want to do this for the same price as my free labor 😉 If not, you can always close your eyes 😂
@@justwatching918maybe the part where the floor was never actually sanded... The wood grain is still dark brown from the previous stain.. or maybe all of the cross grain marks ALL over the floor...
@@olgabuilds It's all good. Next time just rent the drum sander and not the orbital sander and you're golden. People like to say the drum sander is difficult to intimidate people but I just used it on my floors and it was a breeze. Probably the easiest DIY machine I've used, built by American Sander, rented from home depot.
Absolutely beautiful
Thank you! 😊
Great video. I’m in the same boat of trying to white my red oak. I’m considering doing 2 passes of red out and 2 of Nordic seal after seeing your video. I’m having a professional do it but it was great seeing you tackle this
Thank you so much! Good luck with your project! :)
This looks great. We have red oak and were considering doing red oak and then natural because we were worried nordic had a grey tint but i didn't see any grey on yours it looks very light and natural. Pics didn't always evaluate actual color though perfectly does nordic leave some grey or not with the red oak? -thanks great video
Very nice work! I am also diy my floor ! Thanks for sharing! Beautiful!
Of course! Best of luck with your floors :)
Nice work...! Is the result the same with orbital sander and belt sander?
Thank you! My understanding is that the belt sander gets rid of more material quicker, so if used correctly, it may result in a more perfect result. You can probably get similar results with an orbital sander, but it takes much more sanding to get there. For me, I wanted to remove the bare minimum amount of wood, and I was worried about gouging my floors with a belt sander, so the orbital sander was the right choice for me.
Can you tell me how long you waiting after the first coat of the finisher to do that light sanding? I’m assuming 2-3 hours but my question is that the bona product i want to use gives you a 3 hour work time before you can no longer use it so I’d have to buy 2 bottles and it’s pretty pricey.
I waited overnight, but I don't think you necessarily need to mix the full bottle at once. You can mix half the bottle with the hardener. I believe the bottle has instructions for what ratio to use when mixing less than the full bottle.
Was it hard to apply? I’ve heard ppl saying it’s really difficult to move and streaky
I heard this as well, so I used a paint roller and very thin coats to apply it, which made it a lot easier (and the results are not streaky). in some of their videos, they seem to use much more product, which may be harder to work with.
Commenting again in case you missed this
I saw you use a nail gun for the replacement board. I have similar need. Did you just use a finishing nail gun? Trying to avoid buying a hardwood nail gun that I see the commercial installers use.
I was trying to avoid buying the special nailgun as well :). Yes, I used a finishing nail gun and tilted it at an angle. It worked well for me and secured the boards well to the subfloor. Just don't forget to wear safety glasses!
Nice vaccuum
it ended up with sanding lines all over it ,,, what a shame
I like how it ended up and don’t see any obvious lines, but if you want a more perfect finish, you can continue to sand deeper into the wood and use a higher final grit before sealing 😊. Happy sanding.
@@olgabuilds 5:25 as an example , looks like a tiger ,,, but as long as your happy with the result , thats what counts.
@@tomthompson7400 I see what you mean, but to me honest, it’s not noticeable in person, especially after I applied all the products to it. Also, I’d rather have a faint zebra than remove more wood 😊. But thank you for letting me know. I’m sure a few more passes with the orbital sander would have bypassed this.
@@olgabuilds its hard to get rid of ,,, but as you say most will never see it ,,, finer grit wouldnt have solved it , a different size sander is the easier answer ,,,
I'm flooring contractor. You tried hard! Saved some money etc.. but after a.season of expansion.and.contraction that newly installed area will not stand the test of time. Using a Brad nailer to fasten those sections down will not hold. You should of rented a.flooring stapler or cleat gun. Best of luck and.fair job!
Tip from the professionals.
Hire us. 😂
Tip from the non-professionals.
You charge too much. 😂
I never understood the saying "flooring specialist charge too much." When you go into the dentist, and they charge you $2000 and only see you for roughly an hour. You don't pay for time, you pay for skill. All in all, it may not be perfect, but nobody is. Kudos for making it to the finish line.
Holy chatter marks, all of long graining still has stain.
Lots of work 😂
Yes! But definitely worth it to me :)
Not too bad of a job but definitely not a professional job. I've been doing floors for over 30 years and there was a lot of extra work that you did , if you used the proper sanding tools you could have saved you a lot of time. There was a lot of chatter marks and all. Of the old finish was not completely removed . I don't use a roller ,I prefer an applicator, but good try though.
as a professional this hurts my eyes 😅... u gotta hire a a pro for something like this, dyi-ng this is not the best idea
From my understanding, it would have been over 10K to hire someone, which is well over my budget. So it's DIY or nothing. Unless you want to do this for the same price as my free labor 😉 If not, you can always close your eyes 😂
@@olgabuilds fair enough
What part of this was hard for you to watch?
@@justwatching918maybe the part where the floor was never actually sanded... The wood grain is still dark brown from the previous stain.. or maybe all of the cross grain marks ALL over the floor...
@@olgabuilds It's all good. Next time just rent the drum sander and not the orbital sander and you're golden. People like to say the drum sander is difficult to intimidate people but I just used it on my floors and it was a breeze. Probably the easiest DIY machine I've used, built by American Sander, rented from home depot.