Good video, would love to see one focusing a bit more on bouldering, what would be the main differences? I'm guessing less endurance and more power endurance and power (depending if the goal is a comp or projecting outdoors). Keep it up!
A lot of people seem to be interested in a bouldering version, I'll do my best to fulfill this demand :) I can say right away that the foundation period will look different, not as many moves as in the rope climbing version, but still relatively much, easy bouldering. The max strength phase will look more complicated, with more different aspects: building up, strengthen up, explosiveness, contact strength and so on. the power endurance part will be shorter, but maintain still there as some endurance is needed for longer problems, and to make more Go's per session (this is of special interest for competing boulderers).
Hello Mani, Loved the video. But I´d like to post some questions. 1) In Retrospective, still all valid? 2) Which kind of exercises from your experience fit best in the periodized conditioning phases?(Which energy systems, repeaters, max hangs, boulder cycles, etc.) And from present perspektive of pandemia, how would you adapt these into 100% home training? 3) You described the topic without a certain time frame finishing with a peak phase. Sure, everyone has different goals and expand of this peak phase. But I suppose, many viewers are focussing on traning for some month in winter and try to perform more or less on a acceptable level during the outdoor season. In this case you would still advice to introduce periodization in the mezo/makro-cycle? Or would the time frame be too long, so gains from the earlier periods would not last until the season, which makes a periodisation obsolete and "train alwaysa everything" the right choice here? Would be great to hear a profound answer on this one. @Mani the Monkey: Maybe another VLOG-pandemia-edition on periodisation aiming on the day, when we can all finally get back to our beloved projects in real rock.
Mani you are the best! I started following you about a month ago and I'm hooked! You really inspire me and have great tips, wish you'd come to Israel at some point I'd love to take you climbing and show you around. There is a great community here and I'm sure you'll enjoy!
Thank you very much for your work! You are, by far, the best one out there from whom I learn new things about climbing everytime! Keep going! And thanks agains!
Awesome video and tips! Thank you for always taking the time to explain these things so logically and in so much detail! :) I genuinely don't mind longer videos, because you convey a lot of information so it's worth sitting down and watching! :)
Thank you for the awesome feedback Kat, I'm always aiming at making the videos as short and information dense as possible, so it's good to hear they are interesting despite the length :D Stay strong!
if you go go into more detail abut how do do this for bouldering that would be nice, i only boulder so it would be nice to perhaps see a plan for advanced boulders to push my grade to 8a, keep up the good work pal!
Awesome video! I agree especially with the break/deload before the training regimen. I've kept pretty maticulous records of my training and what I've noticed is that if I include about a month of light training with low-ish volume before I train really hard again, I usually hit new PRs in training pretty quickly. Even if I take into account the fact that I basically "lost" a month, my rate of progress is a lot higher this way. I would really appreciate it if you could make a series about periodization for climbing, as I feel that there is not a lot of good material out there (or maybe I just didn't find it yet...)!
Jane Chin Gen-X Climbing Oh, the answer to that is a pretty complex topic, as I do quite a lot of strength training on top of the bouldering. I also have a "unit" for training volume, that takes quite a bit of explanation. However, I'll try to make it concise. In my own training regimen, the 'peak', that Manni mentioned and the deload/break are kind of mangled into one big block if that makes sense. In that time I actually test my progress. The way that has worked well for me is that I take longer breaks between sessions, so that I am completely recovered before I hit the next session. This way I can actually test my progress each time I train. I usually do that for about 3 weeks or so and then I have a week where only go to the gym once or twice for some really light stuff. I guess in your case that would be V1 or maybe V2, but not more. As a result of that way of training I only do about 60% of my usual training volume during that month and I feel kind of recovered afterwards. Note though that I am not only testing my progress on the really hard stuff, I also have some strength training in the 10 repetition range and I also test how many 'easy' bouldering routes of a specific difficulty I can climb in a row. If that weren't the case, I think I would have problems maintaining my performance in that phase and recovering at the same time. I hope that helps and makes sense. EDIT: I used the term 'light-ish' in my post above. I guess that only describes the last week of that peak/deload phase. However, the actual volume is lower, which makes the session 'easier' on the body.
Hello Mani! Really good video, personally I follow these rules during my trainings in winter. Can I ask your suggestion for trainings in periods when I would spend let's say every weekend on rock. What trainings should I focus during weekdays for keeping my performance as much as possible? Many thanks for advance. Keep up the good work!
I think; Necessary time for improve strenght: 4 weeks Necessary time for improve your endurance: 3 months Time for tendons 1-2 years Time for ligaments >2 years Cartilage 3-5 years
Interesting input, although I'm sure that at least for me endurance comes much faster than strength. And yes, unfortunately things may shift to longer times once we get older :P
As far as older athletes are concerned, it really depends on their athletic base. For example, I started climbing at age 60 after a long career as a competitive runner and mountain biker. From the start, I could do long sessions on an aerobic level, but I have had to be very patient with slowly developing finger strength. I've been climbing for 1 year, 10 months and I still don't use the campus board. However, because of my background, I am very comfortable with doing intervals and repeats. I've also made sure to space out my hard climbing days with cross training and/or rest. Basically, its the hard, easy, easy pattern I did as a runner.
Thank you! I'll tell you the same as Nils and Gavin: A lot of people are requesting more detail, but at that point an effective training regimen should actually be personalized (to be able to tackle weaknesses with the right exercises and volume, but preventing injury at the same time, taking into consideration age, weight and other specifics,..). If enough people are interested I would agree to start a little online coaching thing, providing personalized training programs aiming at injury free long term progress (against a little money of course, as this can be very laborious I think :)
Thanks! A lot of people are requesting more detail, but at that point an effective training regimen should actually be personalized (to be able to tackle weaknesses with the right exercises and volume, but preventing injury at the same time, taking into consideration age, weight and other specifics,..). If enough people are interested I would agree to start a little online coaching thing, providing personalized training programs aiming at injury free long term progress (against a little money of course, as this can be very laborious I think :)
Love the video. I haven't hit that second plateau yet and hopefully I won't 😅. Just my 2 cents maybe don't announce the sections of the video so much, just a very light intro at the beginning. To make the whole thing seem less blocky. This stuff is so enlightening
great video :) do you think a beginner (1 month bouldering) should have any periodization? after how long should I start? and is there any proper guide to exactly how to train, specificly how many days a week, what to do each day, etc?
Just came here to say exactly the same thing! Just have fun! Climb a lot, have fun, know all the crags around your area, make good climbers friends. After one year you can start to start to think about trainning. Actually, I took 5 years of climbing to start to thinking about traininng.
Thanks again for the vid! :D I was wondering, where does training flexibility take place in periodization? Is it something that can be focused on or does it generally not affect the focus of other disciplines?
I think flexibility should be a constant part of the training, I incorporate it into every warmup. It does not affect the focus of other disciplines, at least not in my experience.
Why dont you mention the non-linear type of periodization, like Steve Bechtel proposes it or in Germany Guido Köstermeyer? It doesnt have the downsides, which you are correctly mentioning in the end, like a decrease in performance while training.... And historically the credits for transfering linear periodization from other sports to rock climbing are gping to the Anderson Brothers Rock Climbers Training Manual, right?
hey very informative video thanks! i still have a whole sh*tload of questions though :D I wonder which kind of exercises you are actually using for the different phases? I figured campus boarding and limit bouldering would be great to increase your maxstrength, but im not sure what to use for the hypertrophie phase (building up). do you focus on upper body exercises like pullup variations, rowing and normal bouldering? And where comes the fingerboard into play? is it a device to use in the hypertrophie phase or maxstrength or just use it consistently? How do you incorporate antagonist training in this plan? And how long are the different phase meant to be? cheers
Use the hangboard consistently. Hypertrophy on the HB is usually repeaters. Antagonist training once a week, when there's time. Duration of phases depends on set peak time. Campusboarding and limit bouldering definitely in the IC phase. This is a very complex topic, and a periodization regimen should be personalized. If you are interested in a customized training plan, you can message me on plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com and we can figure something out.
Does the peak period last? For example, if you are not competing would this kind of training make you good for a week but then have you not as good for the following weeks. Is this a good training method if you just want to improve overall and aren't aiming for a specific goal
We like to think in that way: Now I am strong. If I train a bit, then I'll be stronger. Forever. This works only if you are a beginner, making gains super fast and not dropping back quite easily (actually it works never but at least it feels like that). The more advanced you are, the closer you work to your genetic limit, the more it becomes temporary that you feel really strong, if that makes sense. If you want a peak that is higher than that one before, you have to go through a crazy long valley of training, during which you will feel weak. At least that's my experience. At some point you may have to chose this method to get even stronger, otherwise you will just plateau forever. And as mentioned in the video, it's a good method to break plateaus. But, unfortunately, the peak period does not last.
I think that bodybuilding style weight training does not lead to a lot of climbing specific strength. It will put on muscle and thus weight which is not going to help a climber much on the wall. Better attack the hangboard, campusboard, rings and such. But to be honest, Ive never tried it, maybe some other climbers have better experiences.
I think every activity which is about being physical active and try to improve oneself over and over should be considered as a sport. I like your channel but it is a bit selfish to take off credit from people that are working hard on their physique (body BUILDING).
Good video, would love to see one focusing a bit more on bouldering, what would be the main differences? I'm guessing less endurance and more power endurance and power (depending if the goal is a comp or projecting outdoors). Keep it up!
Loved the episode and am really interested in a bouldering version as well! :D
A lot of people seem to be interested in a bouldering version, I'll do my best to fulfill this demand :) I can say right away that the foundation period will look different, not as many moves as in the rope climbing version, but still relatively much, easy bouldering. The max strength phase will look more complicated, with more different aspects: building up, strengthen up, explosiveness, contact strength and so on. the power endurance part will be shorter, but maintain still there as some endurance is needed for longer problems, and to make more Go's per session (this is of special interest for competing boulderers).
Hello Mani, Loved the video. But I´d like to post some questions.
1) In Retrospective, still all valid?
2) Which kind of exercises from your experience fit best in the periodized conditioning phases?(Which energy systems, repeaters, max hangs, boulder cycles, etc.) And from present perspektive of pandemia, how would you adapt these into 100% home training?
3) You described the topic without a certain time frame finishing with a peak phase. Sure, everyone has different goals and expand of this peak phase. But I suppose, many viewers are focussing on traning for some month in winter and try to perform more or less on a acceptable level during the outdoor season. In this case you would still advice to introduce periodization in the mezo/makro-cycle? Or would the time frame be too long, so gains from the earlier periods would not last until the season, which makes a periodisation obsolete and "train alwaysa everything" the right choice here?
Would be great to hear a profound answer on this one.
@Mani the Monkey: Maybe another VLOG-pandemia-edition on periodisation aiming on the day, when we can all finally get back to our beloved projects in real rock.
I learned more about bodybuilding periodization principles in this video, than any other "bodybuilding" video.
As a new climber, your channel is the best I have found that concisely breaks down climbing so that I can digest it easily. Subscribed!
Please do a BOULDERER version as well!!! :)
yes, please!
Mani you are the best!
I started following you about a month ago and I'm hooked!
You really inspire me and have great tips, wish you'd come to Israel at some point I'd love to take you climbing and show you around. There is a great community here and I'm sure you'll enjoy!
Moved from Athletics to Bodybuilding to Bouldering.. Climbing seemed to click for me and i enjoy it so much! Thanks for the videos!
Thank you very much for your work!
You are, by far, the best one out there from whom I learn new things about climbing everytime!
Keep going! And thanks agains!
great job! got my own theory based from other books but you help it make more sense! :) so now, i get it! ;) Thanks!!!
Awesome video and tips! Thank you for always taking the time to explain these things so logically and in so much detail! :)
I genuinely don't mind longer videos, because you convey a lot of information so it's worth sitting down and watching! :)
Thank you for the awesome feedback Kat, I'm always aiming at making the videos as short and information dense as possible, so it's good to hear they are interesting despite the length :D Stay strong!
if you go go into more detail abut how do do this for bouldering that would be nice, i only boulder so it would be nice to perhaps see a plan for advanced boulders to push my grade to 8a, keep up the good work pal!
I'll try my best!
Extremely well described video. Good work
really great video-everything is very clearly explained and seems to dovetail with other material I've read about periodized training for climbers
Thank you very much! I've watched almost all of your videos as they're informative and entertaining at the same time.
You're welcome, I'm glad about your feedback because that's the goal!
Awesome video! I agree especially with the break/deload before the training regimen. I've kept pretty maticulous records of my training and what I've noticed is that if I include about a month of light training with low-ish volume before I train really hard again, I usually hit new PRs in training pretty quickly. Even if I take into account the fact that I basically "lost" a month, my rate of progress is a lot higher this way. I would really appreciate it if you could make a series about periodization for climbing, as I feel that there is not a lot of good material out there (or maybe I just didn't find it yet...)!
Thanks for the great input! I will definitely come back to the topic, also a more bouldering specific periodization was requested a lot, stay tuned!
Jane Chin Gen-X Climbing Oh, the answer to that is a pretty complex topic, as I do quite a lot of strength training on top of the bouldering. I also have a "unit" for training volume, that takes quite a bit of explanation. However, I'll try to make it concise. In my own training regimen, the 'peak', that Manni mentioned and the deload/break are kind of mangled into one big block if that makes sense. In that time I actually test my progress. The way that has worked well for me is that I take longer breaks between sessions, so that I am completely recovered before I hit the next session. This way I can actually test my progress each time I train. I usually do that for about 3 weeks or so and then I have a week where only go to the gym once or twice for some really light stuff. I guess in your case that would be V1 or maybe V2, but not more. As a result of that way of training I only do about 60% of my usual training volume during that month and I feel kind of recovered afterwards. Note though that I am not only testing my progress on the really hard stuff, I also have some strength training in the 10 repetition range and I also test how many 'easy' bouldering routes of a specific difficulty I can climb in a row. If that weren't the case, I think I would have problems maintaining my performance in that phase and recovering at the same time. I hope that helps and makes sense.
EDIT: I used the term 'light-ish' in my post above. I guess that only describes the last week of that peak/deload phase. However, the actual volume is lower, which makes the session 'easier' on the body.
Vegan Rockclimbing Awesome! I'm definitely looking forward to it!
Hey! Really cool vid
Hello Mani! Really good video, personally I follow these rules during my trainings in winter. Can I ask your suggestion for trainings in periods when I would spend let's say every weekend on rock. What trainings should I focus during weekdays for keeping my performance as much as possible? Many thanks for advance. Keep up the good work!
I think;
Necessary time for improve strenght: 4 weeks
Necessary time for improve your endurance: 3 months
Time for tendons 1-2 years
Time for ligaments >2 years
Cartilage 3-5 years
Interesting input, although I'm sure that at least for me endurance comes much faster than strength. And yes, unfortunately things may shift to longer times once we get older :P
As far as older athletes are concerned, it really depends on their athletic base. For example, I started climbing at age 60 after a long career as a competitive runner and mountain biker. From the start, I could do long sessions on an aerobic level, but I have had to be very patient with slowly developing finger strength. I've been climbing for 1 year, 10 months and I still don't use the campus board. However, because of my background, I am very comfortable with doing intervals and repeats. I've also made sure to space out my hard climbing days with cross training and/or rest. Basically, its the hard, easy, easy pattern I did as a runner.
Excelent video. I would like practical examples of each step please.
Thank you! I'll tell you the same as Nils and Gavin: A lot of people are requesting more detail, but at that point an effective training regimen should actually be personalized (to be able to tackle weaknesses with the right exercises and volume, but preventing injury at the same time, taking into consideration age, weight and other specifics,..). If enough people are interested I would agree to start a little online coaching thing, providing personalized training programs aiming at injury free long term progress (against a little money of course, as this can be very laborious I think :)
Realy good Video! Could you explain what exercises and volume to do in each phase of the periodized Training? :)
Thanks! A lot of people are requesting more detail, but at that point an effective training regimen should actually be personalized (to be able to tackle weaknesses with the right exercises and volume, but preventing injury at the same time, taking into consideration age, weight and other specifics,..). If enough people are interested I would agree to start a little online coaching thing, providing personalized training programs aiming at injury free long term progress (against a little money of course, as this can be very laborious I think :)
+Vegan Rockclimbing I'd be in, if it's affordable for a student :)
+Vegan Rockclimbing wonderful idea i think its worth it to invest. Great video as always
Love the video. I haven't hit that second plateau yet and hopefully I won't 😅. Just my 2 cents maybe don't announce the sections of the video so much, just a very light intro at the beginning. To make the whole thing seem less blocky. This stuff is so enlightening
I'm glad you like the vid! Thanks for the feedback, will take it into consideration!
Start a podcast mani
great video :)
do you think a beginner (1 month bouldering) should have any periodization? after how long should I start?
and is there any proper guide to exactly how to train, specificly how many days a week, what to do each day, etc?
Just go to the crag/gym and have fun for now :)
Just came here to say exactly the same thing! Just have fun! Climb a lot, have fun, know all the crags around your area, make good climbers friends. After one year you can start to start to think about trainning. Actually, I took 5 years of climbing to start to thinking about traininng.
ohhh! the pen noise at 7min made me shrink
RustuPai same here.....aaah. ...
Thanks again for the vid! :D I was wondering, where does training flexibility take place in periodization? Is it something that can be focused on or does it generally not affect the focus of other disciplines?
I think flexibility should be a constant part of the training, I incorporate it into every warmup. It does not affect the focus of other disciplines, at least not in my experience.
+Vegan Rockclimbing cool, thanks!
Why dont you mention the non-linear type of periodization, like Steve Bechtel proposes it or in Germany Guido Köstermeyer?
It doesnt have the downsides, which you are correctly mentioning in the end, like a decrease in performance while training....
And historically the credits for transfering linear periodization from other sports to rock climbing are gping to the Anderson Brothers Rock Climbers Training Manual, right?
hey very informative video thanks! i still have a whole sh*tload of questions though :D
I wonder which kind of exercises you are actually using for the different phases? I figured campus boarding and limit bouldering would be great to increase your maxstrength, but im not sure what to use for the hypertrophie phase (building up).
do you focus on upper body exercises like pullup variations, rowing and normal bouldering?
And where comes the fingerboard into play? is it a device to use in the hypertrophie phase or maxstrength or just use it consistently?
How do you incorporate antagonist training in this plan? And how long are the different phase meant to be?
cheers
Use the hangboard consistently. Hypertrophy on the HB is usually repeaters. Antagonist training once a week, when there's time. Duration of phases depends on set peak time. Campusboarding and limit bouldering definitely in the IC phase. This is a very complex topic, and a periodization regimen should be personalized. If you are interested in a customized training plan, you can message me on plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com and we can figure something out.
Does the peak period last? For example, if you are not competing would this kind of training make you good for a week but then have you not as good for the following weeks. Is this a good training method if you just want to improve overall and aren't aiming for a specific goal
We like to think in that way: Now I am strong. If I train a bit, then I'll be stronger. Forever. This works only if you are a beginner, making gains super fast and not dropping back quite easily (actually it works never but at least it feels like that).
The more advanced you are, the closer you work to your genetic limit, the more it becomes temporary that you feel really strong, if that makes sense. If you want a peak that is higher than that one before, you have to go through a crazy long valley of training, during which you will feel weak. At least that's my experience.
At some point you may have to chose this method to get even stronger, otherwise you will just plateau forever. And as mentioned in the video, it's a good method to break plateaus. But, unfortunately, the peak period does not last.
Do you recommend weight training (bodybuilding-ish kind of style) for the strength building phase of training?
I think that bodybuilding style weight training does not lead to a lot of climbing specific strength. It will put on muscle and thus weight which is not going to help a climber much on the wall. Better attack the hangboard, campusboard, rings and such. But to be honest, Ive never tried it, maybe some other climbers have better experiences.
+Vegan Rockclimbing All right. Thanks for the advise
please use a whiteboard. Marker is like nails on a chalkboard for some people (me!). Great vid as always.
I think every activity which is about being physical active and try to improve oneself over and over should be considered as a sport. I like your channel but it is a bit selfish to take off credit from people that are working hard on their physique (body BUILDING).
Body building not a real sport ? You disgrace your country Arnold
Is modeling a sport?