Love your videos. Thanks for sharing. I used to do stupid shit all the time, when I was young and time was the only thing I had. The back pain is a bitch. Please take care of yourself. Make a bench and chain hoist for yourself. You are an inspiration.
I am glad to be able to watch your latest episode. Your level of workmanship is inspiring. Your ability to not only build, but also video the process, has been a great pleasure to watch. You display an extreme level of skill, determination and work ethic and you need to be commended for that. I am looking forward to future episodes. Thank you from North Dakota!
Well I like to see the way you work. You come up with ways to make reasonably precise surfaces and assemblies with simple tools and a good use of your mind. The sand for dampening is going to be a great idea. Maybe you have more ideas for the base. But as it is now, that base is not stiff enough for your mill. You could cement it to your shop floor, that would change it's stiffness and not cost much. Mark
Base plate isn't finished. I will weld to it steel box and pipe with ribs (table lifting mechanism). Those extra elements will reinforce this plate. Whole machine will be bolted to the floor of my workshop.
Kiedyś używałem tokarki jako wytaczarki, toczyłem nożem na wiertarce, szlifowałem też na wiertarce ściernicą fi40. Ale żeby toczyć frezem na wiertarce to mi się jeszcze nie zdarzyło 🤔 Szacun za starania o dokładność, pomimo braków sprzętowych. Kombinujesz jak prawdziwy stary fachman, jak tu zrobić coś z niczego. Nie pytaj "czy" - zapytaj "jak" 😀
Szkoda, że zepsułem przekładnie w moim "stole obrotowym". Będę musiał kombinować jak gniazda pod łożyska zrobić. Największym wyzwaniem będzie pasowanie i skrobanie prowadnic. Mam już plan , zobaczymy czy zadziała
@@SteelCraft99 Nie wiem w jakich elementach mają być te gniazda pod łożyska ale można wstępnie wywiercić, poprawić frezem dno na płasko, a później wytaczanie wykańczające głowicą do wytaczania. Jeśli chodzi o prowadnice "stal po stali" to pewien majster mi to odradzał ze względu na na większą podatność takich prowadnic na zacieranie. Ale myślę, że jakby to było dokładnie wyskrobane, w powierzchniach ślizgowych wykonane kanały olejowe i do tego centralny układ smarowania to powinno śmigać bez większych problemów. Ewentualnie są jeszcze specjalne taśmy i masy ślizgowe, którymi można "wykleić" prowadnice.
Wytaczadło to chyba jedyna opcja jaka została na te gniazda. Co do połączeń ślizgowych "stal po stali", myślę że to ma znaczenie w przypadku, gdy elementy wykonują intensywny ruch względem siebie z dużymi prędkościami np. wał jakieś maszyny osadzony w stalowej tulejce. Skrobanie poza płaskością pozwoli uzyskać mikro "kliny" dzięki którym będzie miał szansę wytworzyć się film smarny.
@@SteelCraft99 Twój projekt trochę bardziej zaawansowany od mojego, ja dopiero na początku drogi, spawanie korpusu, też będę kombinował jak to obrobić, więc twoje filmy jak znalazł aby podpatrzyć.
Hell of a project, but (assuming) that the last 2 tall plates you installed in this video are supposed to be the back face of the knee ways, please tell me you intend to scrape or surface grind those into spec rather than leaving them in their current mill scale condition.
As you said, those two tall plates are back faces of knee ways. I have machined 20 mm thick steel plate which I'm planning to use as surface plate to scrape surface of all guides surface in the machine.
@@SteelCraft99 Just a suggestion but might want to consider getting a small granite surface plate to use as the reference for scraping. Even a cheap one like a grade B, would yield way better results than the machined steel plate.
You are 100% right , surface plate would be real gem for work like this.For this moment I will stay with machined steel plate. My workshop is only 20 square meters, very limited space for storing fragile equipment like real surface plate. Maybe in the future I get second workshop and will be able to split machinist equipment from messy blackmisth workshop.
@@SteelCraft99 man i got a manual knee mill & a cnc knee mill crammed into a single car garage so I feel you on the limited space issue & how hard it is to keep stuff clean. But I also got a little 12" x 18" grade B surface plate I keep on the work bench next to my computer. Think I got it on sale from Travers or a similar tool distributor for like 120 bucks. I try to keep it covered up with paperwork or a folder or something when not being used. By no means is it as good as like a lab grade Starrett pink granite plate, but its sufficed for what I've been doing so far. Even something like that would really go a long way for making the most out of this epic project you've got going on.
Only 120 bucks? even in Poland it would be a real deal for a granite surface plate of this size. I checked auction portals and they usually want 400 PLN+ for damaged/heavily rusted cast iron one. New surface place in size 630x400 [mm] costs about 1200 PLN ~ 300 USD it's like 1/3 of my budget for this project but I really appreciate your advise
Я добавил песок для гашения вибрации. Сечения, используемые в моем фрезерном станке, аналогичны сечениям фрезерного станка Bridgeport, вес обоих станков колеблется в районе 750 кг.
The experience gained while making this machine will serve you well. Except for the bearing installation. Worse, it looks like you got away with it, which means you'll eventually ruin very expensive bearings and have no idea why. The arbor press is what separates us from the animals.
When you hammering gently on inner ring during mounting bearing on shaft or outer ring during mounting in socket usually nothing bad happens. Press is the best for work like this you're right.
Interesting, aspects will function in a acceptable way for a home work shop however I think you will become madly frustrated while trying to get rid of chatter. The ability to work to 10ths will not be there. So the question is what is close enough in your rational. It is a big job fabricating this, will you benefit in the way your hoping to I don’t think so,
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 10: Knee lifting mechanism](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yEiRBF2DeE0/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 10: Knee lifting mechanism](/img/tr.png)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 12: X axis table unit](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xVxEuB6O028/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 11: Z axis guides and carriage](/img/n.gif)
Basic machines, good ideas and a mindset to work tirelessly…you are able to do a lot of things. Congrats
Love your videos. Thanks for sharing. I used to do stupid shit all the time, when I was young and time was the only thing I had. The back pain is a bitch. Please take care of yourself. Make a bench and chain hoist for yourself. You are an inspiration.
I am glad to be able to watch your latest episode. Your level of workmanship is inspiring. Your ability to not only build, but also video the process, has been a great pleasure to watch. You display an extreme level of skill, determination and work ethic and you need to be commended for that. I am looking forward to future episodes. Thank you from North Dakota!
Well done.. I really liked your "Grinder machining" of the big bits...
Fantastic!!! I was waiting patiently. You are an inspiration!!
Well I like to see the way you work. You come up with ways to make reasonably precise surfaces and assemblies with simple tools and a good use of your mind. The sand for dampening is going to be a great idea. Maybe you have more ideas for the base. But as it is now, that base is not stiff enough for your mill. You could cement it to your shop floor, that would change it's stiffness and not cost much.
Mark
Base plate isn't finished. I will weld to it steel box and pipe with ribs (table lifting mechanism). Those extra elements will reinforce this plate. Whole machine will be bolted to the floor of my workshop.
Great job for doing it on a drill press really great job
Czekałem i się doczekałem. Super projekt!
Sianokosy i żniwa trochę rozciągnęły prace nad tym korpusem. Do pazdziernika postaram się zrobić jak najwięcej. Tak naprawdę niewiele zostało
بسیار عالی استاد گرامی مرحبا
Kiedyś używałem tokarki jako wytaczarki, toczyłem nożem na wiertarce, szlifowałem też na wiertarce ściernicą fi40. Ale żeby toczyć frezem na wiertarce to mi się jeszcze nie zdarzyło 🤔 Szacun za starania o dokładność, pomimo braków sprzętowych. Kombinujesz jak prawdziwy stary fachman, jak tu zrobić coś z niczego. Nie pytaj "czy" - zapytaj "jak" 😀
Szkoda, że zepsułem przekładnie w moim "stole obrotowym". Będę musiał kombinować jak gniazda pod łożyska zrobić.
Największym wyzwaniem będzie pasowanie i skrobanie prowadnic. Mam już plan , zobaczymy czy zadziała
@@SteelCraft99 Nie wiem w jakich elementach mają być te gniazda pod łożyska ale można wstępnie wywiercić, poprawić frezem dno na płasko, a później wytaczanie wykańczające głowicą do wytaczania.
Jeśli chodzi o prowadnice "stal po stali" to pewien majster mi to odradzał ze względu na na większą podatność takich prowadnic na zacieranie. Ale myślę, że jakby to było dokładnie wyskrobane, w powierzchniach ślizgowych wykonane kanały olejowe i do tego centralny układ smarowania to powinno śmigać bez większych problemów. Ewentualnie są jeszcze specjalne taśmy i masy ślizgowe, którymi można "wykleić" prowadnice.
Wytaczadło to chyba jedyna opcja jaka została na te gniazda.
Co do połączeń ślizgowych "stal po stali", myślę że to ma znaczenie w przypadku, gdy elementy wykonują intensywny ruch względem siebie z dużymi prędkościami np. wał jakieś maszyny osadzony w stalowej tulejce. Skrobanie poza płaskością pozwoli uzyskać mikro "kliny" dzięki którym będzie miał szansę wytworzyć się film smarny.
@@SteelCraft99 Twój projekt trochę bardziej zaawansowany od mojego, ja dopiero na początku drogi, spawanie korpusu, też będę kombinował jak to obrobić, więc twoje filmy jak znalazł aby podpatrzyć.
Budujesz frezarkę konwencjonalną? Na twoim kanale z frezarek znalazłem tylko CNC
You have been better served spending the money on Chinese mill approaching it like a kit
Я жду следующих серий удачи
Hell of a project, but (assuming) that the last 2 tall plates you installed in this video are supposed to be the back face of the knee ways, please tell me you intend to scrape or surface grind those into spec rather than leaving them in their current mill scale condition.
As you said, those two tall plates are back faces of knee ways. I have machined 20 mm thick steel plate which I'm planning to use as surface plate to scrape surface of all guides surface in the machine.
@@SteelCraft99 Just a suggestion but might want to consider getting a small granite surface plate to use as the reference for scraping. Even a cheap one like a grade B, would yield way better results than the machined steel plate.
You are 100% right , surface plate would be real gem for work like this.For this moment I will stay with machined steel plate. My workshop is only 20 square meters, very limited space for storing fragile equipment like real surface plate. Maybe in the future I get second workshop and will be able to split machinist equipment from messy blackmisth workshop.
@@SteelCraft99 man i got a manual knee mill & a cnc knee mill crammed into a single car garage so I feel you on the limited space issue & how hard it is to keep stuff clean. But I also got a little 12" x 18" grade B surface plate I keep on the work bench next to my computer. Think I got it on sale from Travers or a similar tool distributor for like 120 bucks. I try to keep it covered up with paperwork or a folder or something when not being used. By no means is it as good as like a lab grade Starrett pink granite plate, but its sufficed for what I've been doing so far. Even something like that would really go a long way for making the most out of this epic project you've got going on.
Only 120 bucks? even in Poland it would be a real deal for a granite surface plate of this size. I checked auction portals and they usually want 400 PLN+ for damaged/heavily rusted cast iron one. New surface place in size 630x400 [mm] costs about 1200 PLN ~ 300 USD it's like 1/3 of my budget for this project but I really appreciate your advise
По-моему, с весом перебор. Для станка на первом месте жесткость. А уж вес где-то там
Я добавил песок для гашения вибрации. Сечения, используемые в моем фрезерном станке, аналогичны сечениям фрезерного станка Bridgeport, вес обоих станков колеблется в районе 750 кг.
@@SteelCraft99 я бы сварил два швеллера, вырезал бы спину и вварил туда пластины Х. В Бриджпорте нет же песка)
Да, здесь нет песка, но он сделан из чугуна, который обладает естественными виброгасящими свойствами, а сталь - нет.
Гасят вибрации вот эти самые крестики
Спину берегите .
No milling cutter was harmed?😂 thats a true lie😂
Nah 😂
The experience gained while making this machine will serve you well. Except for the bearing installation. Worse, it looks like you got away with it, which means you'll eventually ruin very expensive bearings and have no idea why. The arbor press is what separates us from the animals.
When you hammering gently on inner ring during mounting bearing on shaft or outer ring during mounting in socket usually nothing bad happens. Press is the best for work like this you're right.
Interesting, aspects will function in a acceptable way for a home work shop however I think you will become madly frustrated while trying to get rid of chatter. The ability to work to 10ths will not be there. So the question is what is close enough in your rational. It is a big job fabricating this, will you benefit in the way your hoping to I don’t think so,