Looked at dozens of videos before finding this one. So I then got under my ‘06 Town and Country. SAME PROBLEM! Clamps worn out and broken, hoses loose. Gonna zip tie them all. Thank you, thank you, thank you from Tampa!
The very last hose you were talking about is a 14.5 millimeter like all the other larger hoses. I tested mine after washing them with dawn then tested while they were wet. Thinking they were good I was going to reinstall them later that day. I did test them one more time come to find out they were leaking. The caravan being 20 years old yet the hoses appear to be fairly new they did leak considerably all over. These caravans look as if there is 20 feet of rubber and plastic lines that go to the fuel tank from the purge valve next to the air filter then on to the gas tank, under the brake pedal where the evap canister that you showed very late in the video, from the other side of the purge canister is the evap pump them up to the driver’s side of the intake manifold. Replacing say a total of 5 feet rubber hoses might cost one $20 or less and an day of work or less it would be worth the time and money invested into it. Material list could be 5 -8 feet of 5/16 and 7 feet of 9/16 vacuum hose
That component up front is the Leak Detection Pump (LDP). What it does is pump up the fuel system with air and then it monitors how quickly the air leaks out. The computer runs the pump periodically to test the system for leaks. If there are no leaks detected the check engine light stays off. But if the air leaks out too fast the check engine light comes on and the codes get generated. Also, a slow minor leak will throw a P0456 code where a larger leak will throw a P0455 code.
I have been battling the same thing. Found the 2 little 90s under the intake hose had cuts replace and it came back. Watched your video and found the same thing with the stupid plastic clamps were all broken and hose to the canister had a big rip. Replaced the hose and found enough hose clamps. Thanks this was a big help.
Excellent video. Haven't found my P0456 leak yet on a 05 Caravan, but I would also recommend checking the functionality of the purge valve, which is the under hood component shown at 00:25 I've heard they are a relatively common failure item, and when they fail they will allow vacuum to leak down without the PCM commanding the valve open. Mine tested good, up next is the Natural Vacuum Leak Detection assembly (NVLD) and the Leak Detection Pump (LDP), as shown in this video.
Had same vacuum code issues on 2003 3.3L engine dodge grand caravan in june 2024 after 115 miles on it. I don't drive much, LOL. So, after small leak went to big leak code, I went looking. I was lucky to find it easily. I started with top hose on engine, the one in back that just curves over from intake manifold cover with vacuum and curves over to the CPV (crankcase positive ventilation) which is screwed into metal lower part of intake. Discovered the nipple tube had broken off completely from the PCV , so no longer working at all. Very cheap part, about $10 as I recall. It never had a clamp on hose, just a push-on, but I did add a clamp to it this time. So, always check the easiest places first, and that CPV is probably the easiest.
Way to pass emission test with vacuum leak error codes. The vacuum test is NEVER done until the gas tank is down a couple gallons after totally filling. However, if you erase the code, you will see a P1684 that alerts the test site you erased the codes and it won't pass. If though, you crank the engine 50 times, then drive about 50-70 miles and only stop and refill immediately at gas station near the VEIP site, check the 1684 code is gone, then you can pass the test.
Thank you for this video, would this leak stop you from driving the minivan? I have two codes (2007 Dodge Caravan 3.3L 204K km) so far and I can't see that these codes effecting my driving or gas consumption -P0456 & P0441. We have no emission test in Ontario.
I don't know all of the parts by name, I tried to show the location of the parts, but I simply followed the vacuum lines From the place at the bottom going up to the top of the engine and look for loose connections or broken lines. To find it I started at the top of the engine and followed the vacuum lines from the left side of the engine over to the right side of the engine And follow them down And they met just under the driver's side side roughly around where the brake pedal would be at the bottom of the car.
![2001 Dodge Caravan Evap Leak Diagnosis & Fix [ P0442 P0455]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/POD-CkjO6zM/mqdefault.jpg)
Looked at dozens of videos before finding this one. So I then got under my ‘06 Town and Country. SAME PROBLEM! Clamps worn out and broken, hoses loose. Gonna zip tie them all. Thank you, thank you, thank you from Tampa!
The very last hose you were talking about is a 14.5 millimeter like all the other larger hoses. I tested mine after washing them with dawn then tested while they were wet. Thinking they were good I was going to reinstall them later that day. I did test them one more time come to find out they were leaking. The caravan being 20 years old yet the hoses appear to be fairly new they did leak considerably all over.
These caravans look as if there is 20 feet of rubber and plastic lines that go to the fuel tank from the purge valve next to the air filter then on to the gas tank, under the brake pedal where the evap canister that you showed very late in the video, from the other side of the purge canister is the evap pump them up to the driver’s side of the intake manifold. Replacing say a total of 5 feet rubber hoses might cost one $20 or less and an day of work or less it would be worth the time and money invested into it. Material list could be 5 -8 feet of 5/16 and 7 feet of 9/16 vacuum hose
That component up front is the Leak Detection Pump (LDP). What it does is pump up the fuel system with air and then it monitors how quickly the air leaks out. The computer runs the pump periodically to test the system for leaks. If there are no leaks detected the check engine light stays off. But if the air leaks out too fast the check engine light comes on and the codes get generated. Also, a slow minor leak will throw a P0456 code where a larger leak will throw a P0455 code.
Thank you.
Good job. I've had an intermittent 0455 on my Caravan too. Will check these hoses. Thanks for putting this up :)
I have been battling the same thing. Found the 2 little 90s under the intake hose had cuts replace and it came back. Watched your video and found the same thing with the stupid plastic clamps were all broken and hose to the canister had a big rip. Replaced the hose and found enough hose clamps. Thanks this was a big help.
Excellent video. Haven't found my P0456 leak yet on a 05 Caravan, but I would also recommend checking the functionality of the purge valve, which is the under hood component shown at 00:25 I've heard they are a relatively common failure item, and when they fail they will allow vacuum to leak down without the PCM commanding the valve open. Mine tested good, up next is the Natural Vacuum Leak Detection assembly (NVLD) and the Leak Detection Pump (LDP), as shown in this video.
check the CPV. that's what mine was. Top of engine to rear some.
Thank you for the video, you helped me figure out my problem with that 456 code I appreciate it!
Good info. Worked for my small leak detected on my 2002 chrysler pt cruiser. Same vacuum system.
thank you Sir for posting this troubleshooting guide..
it help will me a lot..
thanks again Sir
Thanks so much! Dealing with this issue on mine
Awesome video bro ,I just got the same code on my caravan and been trying to figure out where is it and you made it a hel of a lot better to do
Glad it helped.
Had same vacuum code issues on 2003 3.3L engine dodge grand caravan in june 2024 after 115 miles on it. I don't drive much, LOL. So, after small leak went to big leak code, I went looking. I was lucky to find it easily. I started with top hose on engine, the one in back that just curves over from intake manifold cover with vacuum and curves over to the CPV (crankcase positive ventilation) which is screwed into metal lower part of intake. Discovered the nipple tube had broken off completely from the PCV , so no longer working at all. Very cheap part, about $10 as I recall. It never had a clamp on hose, just a push-on, but I did add a clamp to it this time. So, always check the easiest places first, and that CPV is probably the easiest.
Great Job finding it did you find a replacement ? ... 😢😢😢😢
I did not replace anything, I just zip tied all of the hoses to prevent air from seeping in. It worked well.
Way to pass emission test with vacuum leak error codes. The vacuum test is NEVER done until the gas tank is down a couple gallons after totally filling. However, if you erase the code, you will see a P1684 that alerts the test site you erased the codes and it won't pass. If though, you crank the engine 50 times, then drive about 50-70 miles and only stop and refill immediately at gas station near the VEIP site, check the 1684 code is gone, then you can pass the test.
Thank you!
Well done 👍
Thank you for this video, would this leak stop you from driving the minivan? I have two codes (2007 Dodge Caravan 3.3L 204K km) so far and I can't see that these codes effecting my driving or gas consumption -P0456 & P0441. We have no emission test in Ontario.
These would not stop the van from starting or running although it may round at bad idle possibly.
Lucky you! We have VEIP in Maryland and my 21 year old caravan has started giving me headaches on passing that emission test every 2 years.
@@JoeZyzyx Sell it to me!
Very good good doing this video 👍
Looking behind the motor
Leaking behind the motor 2003 Dodge Grand caravan
Thanks
You bet.
Not identifying all of the parts. Don't know what he's pointing out.
I don't know all of the parts by name, I tried to show the location of the parts, but I simply followed the vacuum lines From the place at the bottom going up to the top of the engine and look for loose connections or broken lines.
To find it I started at the top of the engine and followed the vacuum lines from the left side of the engine over to the right side of the engine And follow them down And they met just under the driver's side side roughly around where the brake pedal would be at the bottom of the car.
Damien Anderson
Water leak
Damien Anderson