I noticed for the past recent years these obs trucks from the 80s and 90s are becoming more of collectors classic trucks and many people are restoring them rather than scrapping them.
Yes, I've noticed that too. I understand why though...there is just something special about the 88-98 body style, really nice lines and overall aesthetic. Just my two pennies, anyway.
Absolutely. The square bodies are in a class all of their own, been hunting for an 84-87 for a while now but everybody wants a ton of money for them still, even the rough looking ones.
@@AllThingsMech yeah I noticed you're limited to what parts they still make. Alot of parts have been discontinued for those cars but the obs trucks you can get just about any parts you need that are still made
Glad it was helpful for you! The '93 from this video has been retired and sold, but I'll be working on my 92 K1500 over the winter and hopefully getting it painted, lifted and running again. Great trucks. Thanks for the sub, much appreciated!
thanks for the video opened my door this morning on my 94 silverado heard a ting sound now the door handle feels odd once i look into it this video answered alot of my questions thanks
After doing this job so many times I figured there had to be other people out there who were trying to figure it out. Glad you found it helpful and didn't break anything! It seems like trying to find parts for these trucks is getting harder and harder each year.
@@AllThingsMech Yeah, I went out to my truck this morning and put the key in the lock and it wouldn't turn. I went through the passenger side to the driver door and tried to un-lock it manually and the lock wouldn't move. Tried the power lock and it wouldn't move. Finally I rolled down the window, stood outside and reached in and kept hitting the power lock button and turning the key at the same time several times and it finally unlocked very slowly. Thanks to you, got the door panel off without breaking it and used your tip on the plastic screw in clips and carefully pulled each one out of the door. Then using shoe-goo, glued each clip back in place in the door panel. I lubed up all the rods, lock, handle etc. and the lock works perfectly now. Went together like a dream. I didn't pop rivet the switch plate back on, I used nice metal screws to zip it back on.
Thank you Jay, I appreciate you watching and I'm glad it was helpful for you! These were some of the best years of chevy pickups IMO - keep her running as long as you can! Take care.
Thanks for posting the part numbers...spent days trying to find them...will replace as soon as it comes in. And yes, those plastic fasteners are a pain!
Glad the info helped you out! The fasteners are great until you need to take them apart...the age combined with the design means they will often just break rather than come apart. Amazon sells new ones that work decently well but aren't quite dimensionally the same.
Thanks for the info I’m restoring my 1990 single cab short bed sport and I just got new door panels for it and will be adding 454 mirrors so this helps a lot!
looking to replace my door panels kn my chevy short box single cab , i found a door panels in good condition from a extension cab ! does the door panels can fit on my truck ?
Thanks for a helpful video....just bought another truck, 92 gmc 2500 4x4 $2400 with good running gear (profess. rebuilt 5.7l about 5 yrs in), but needs tlc on lights and doors, etc.
Thanks JR! Very sorry to hear about your mom's passing. Best of luck with the truck, if you ever have any other questions/issues with it please feel free to reach out. ...and I'm sure at least one of those dislikes broke the bezel in half because they jumped ahead. 😆
I know this was posted long ago. I have replaced the left handle 4 times. I did find a metal handle on ebay at Evan Fischer Auto parts. Same cost as the cheap auto parts replacement (Dorman).
Best video I've seen yet on this job. I am now doing this on my 1992 Silverado drivers side. I am going to try and just replace the broken compression return spring for the handle. If that doesn't work I will buy the entire part you bought. I'll find out when the spring comes in although its for a 1992 S10 truck I am going to see if it will adapt or with a little modification. I just bought the truck.
Thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate it! I wish it were just a matter of replacing the springs in our case...unfortunately the guys reef on the handles so hard that they snap in half, and the only way to get the handle is to buy the whole assembly. I lubricated the door latch mechanisms really well this time around, and that made the doors much easier to open. Hopefully this will keep them from pulling so hard on the handles, but my confidence isn't that high, haha. Please let me know if the S10 spring works out for you, that would be a great alternative if we have a spring go bad on us. Thanks again, and thank you for watching!
My dad just died and he had a 1992 blazer which he passed to me. As an 18 year old I’m overwhelmed by what needs to be done. First the driver side only opens from the outside and the power locks don’t work any solutions? And of course the dash is cracked but I can find a new one. I’m going to replace the carpet and ceiling liner. If I can find some of the original bucket seats in good condition I’ll do that but if not I’ll get some after market seats. He had big plans for the truck and so do I, I just wish he could live to see what it’ll look like. Love you dad
I'm sorry for your loss my man. That's never an easy thing, especially losing a parent. I lost my stepmother to cancer a few years back - time dulls the pain but it never truly goes away. That's good though, it keeps your memories alive and well. As for the truck, I would start by disassembling the inner door liner, and stripping everything out of the door that you can get to. Window regulator, glass, door lock mechanism, everything. If you have a compressor, get after it with some compressed air, rags and some 409, Zep Dazzle, or whatever you can get your hands on. These doors hold a TON of dirt and debris, and it really gums up the works. Clean everything out the very best you can. Go to home depot and get some PB Blaster graphite spray lubricant for locks, and re-lube everything with it. The graphite spray comes out looking like black spray paint - it's extremely messy but it will leave a nice dry film of graphite on everything that will provide lots of lubrication without attracting a bunch of dirt and grime like oil or grease would. Get some cavity wax to spray into the bottom of the door as well, those pinch welds tend to trap water so the wax will keep the rust at bay for a while. Reassemble everything after you've sprayed it with the graphite and it should be nice and smooth. If it's not, source the problem one component at a time. Don't let it overwhelm you - even though there's a lot to do, just make a list of what you know needs to be done and tackle the list one thing at a time. Add to the list as things come up, and just keep chipping away at it. The Blazer will turn out great, I'm sure of it. Good luck man, keep me posted on the progress if you don't mind.
The Ranch Mechanic Thanks for the advice. I’ll keep you posted, I’ll probably keep the blazer as a daily driver until it falls over and dies. Hopefully it’s around for when I have a family.
@@giovanniguerra11 the nice thing about the full size blazers is that 350s and 305s are insanely cheap at most junkyards, so it's pretty easy to toss a new motor in them on the cheap and keep them running. Bedliner and seat covers mask the rest of the wear and tear pretty well, haha.
The Ranch Mechanic So I just finished taking apart the doors at 10:12am in my part of Texas. First thing is I think the actual locking mechanism on the drivers side needs to be replaced and I also need new clips that attaches the door panel to the actual door. As for the power locks I think the chip for it under the steering wheel isn’t there because I checked the wiring and it seems to all be in good condition. And as for the switches that controls the driver side and passenger side locks and windows needs to be replaced. One day at a time I guess. Also I’m going to order new tail lights and headlights. Money’s tight but I’ll be patient and take it one part at a time.
@@giovanniguerra11 sorry I missed your update man! TH-cam has been REALLY bad about notifications for the last few months...I've been missing tons of comments and replies, which sucks because I really try to keep up on talking with everyone on here. Glad you're making some progress, have you gotten your wiring squared away yet? I ordered some replacement clips for the door panels on Amazon, they were cheap but are holding up great so far.
I bought a 93 Yukon and doing a restoration on it. I'm looking for the plugs that go in to the back of the switches! Do you or does anyone else know where I can buy/find these?
They are still being made, believe it or not. AC Delco still makes the OEM door lock connector, part number PT2317. Standard Motor Products makes the window switch connectors, part number S1227 and S1066 (8 pin and 11 pin connectors, respectively).
@@AllThingsMech Thank you sir. I'm looking for the 5 pin connector. That would plug in to the back of switches you have on the bezel. The white, gray, and black plugs?
I'm pretty sure that's the PT2317 connector. I would go check out rockauto.com and poke around a little, you can navigate through the different categories for your truck and that might help narrow it down. You'll want to look under the "electrical connector" section, hopefully that will get you to where you need to be. Give this a try: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,1993,yukon,5.7l+v8,1166385,electrical-connector,power+window+switch+connector,13111
Thanks for posting this. It will help me replace the driver side mirror of my '93 Chevy Suburban K1500. If you still read these comments, could you tell me if there is anything special to do about the wood trim piece (of Van House Trophy Edition) attached, somehow, to the door panel? I mean, will it come off with the panel?
I'm glad it was helpful for you! I'm not familiar with the special edition trucks, but I would imagine that if the wood trim is attached to the inner door panel then it will come off along with the panel. As long as you remove the screw from the door pull in the center, and all of the plastic clips are loose, it technically should slide off like any other door panel.
@@AllThingsMech Thanks for responding! How cool is that (from such an old post)?! I had hoped to remove ONLY the vinyl/plastic trim in order to gain access to the bracket mounting hardware of the side mirror, but discovered that there is a plywood backer panel sandwiched in there somehow. I assume it's there for the wood trim mounting. Still, I believe you are right and the entire door panel should come right off as any other. I am 71 years old, newly widowed, have butter fingers and don't intend to attempt the mirror mounting hardware, but thought I'd get a jumpstart on removing the door panel while I wait for my son to come help me. In the "old days," I was quite the little mechanic, but these days, I'm just a silly old woman thinking I'm all that, only to find out I'm not. Thank goodness for people like you doing TH-cam videos and reading the comments. Thanks again.
That's very sweet of you, thank you for the kind words. 😊 I'm sorry that I didn't understand your original question, but yes you are correct - typically there is no way to remove just the trim pieces; they are usually glued into place so the entire inner door card needs to be pulled out. It's not terribly difficult once the panel is off though, and you sound more than capable of the job so don't count yourself out! I actually have replacement mirrors for my own truck (it's a 92, identical to the 93 shown in the video), and I believe that it's just three 10mm nuts that attach the mirror to the door (plus any requisite wiring that would need to be un-clipped if you have power mirrors). With a ratchet and deep well socket, I bet you could get it done! On a personal note, please accept my sincerest condolences for your loss. I don't pretend to know anyone's religious preferences and don't want to foist my own beliefs onto you, but death has always been difficult for me. I find comfort in knowing that we will one day be reunited with the ones we've lost here on earth. I genuinely hope that you share a similar belief and find comfort in that, too. Please reach out any time - I always try to respond to comments. Wishing you all the best. 🙂
Hey Ryan. This truck is out of service with some other issues at the moment, but if it gets brought back to life I'll see what I can do over the winter. Typically the locks sticking is one of two things - either dirt and gunk slowing the mechanism down, or the lock actuator motor is just worn out and needs to be replaced. Decent ones are about $40/ea from RockAuto. They have a bunch of different options, but I'd stay away from the ultra cheap $10-$15 options they have listed. They are junk.
Yes, they sure are! Our seasonal guys are extremely hard workers but they put our equipment through the ringer, too. I replaced the driver's side handle last summer, and the NEXT DAY it was broken again, lol. I actually had a whole rant about that in the video but edited it out due to time haha. Thanks Mike!
We retired and sold this truck last year so I never got to the bottom of it, but I believe that one of the blend door actuators stripped a gear. The blend doors control the flow of hot/cool air, and directs it out of whatever vents you choose. The gears that move the blend doors are made of plastic and once they get old and brittle, they strip pretty easily. That's what makes the repetitive popping sound you hear.
Yes indeed. It's usually a bit of a job to replace them, but if you're planning on keeping the truck for a while it's definitely worth the effort...for your sanity's sake, anyway. 😁
@@ernesthumes2143 Yes it's the blend door actuators. There are three of them under the dash. One near the gas pedal, another one further to the right, and one way under the right side of the dash. The far right one is VERY hard to get to, and on my 93 Suburban, that's the one I needed to replace. I was replacing the entire dash at the time, so I went ahead and replaced all three of them, they are not very expensive.
There was no second video, this one was all inclusive. It's not split into parts. I didn't have a tripod so I don't have any good closeups of the rods, but it's pretty obvious where they go once you get in there. One drops in the the top and the other goes in from behind, then slide the clips closed to hold them in place .
@@AllThingsMech Thank you. I thought you had a video on the lock. I got the latch in and I hooked up the rods like you said. The door will not close tight, it locks and I have to open it from the inside. I put a new latch on and I did it right I will take it apart and see if something came loose. Or maybe the new latch is not the correct one. I do appreciate all your help at least I put the new window motor in correct, any ideas please reply. Thank you from N. M.
Hi Jose. We actually just retired this old beast from service a couple weeks ago with about 250k on the clock. It was having some pretty bad starter/alternator issues and stranded some of our cattle folks up on the mountain, and then I found two leaking fuel lines and a bunch of other little things. Trying to talk the boss into letting me buy the motor out of her to put in my '92, so we'll see what happens.
Thank you very much! Welcome aboard - I don't have time to post a whole lot right now but I'm trying to get better about it. If you have any questions please ask, I try to stay as active as possible in the comments.
Interesting! Its possible that they were plastic before 94, or maybe the OEM handles from the factory were metal and all of the aftermarket replacements are plastic? All I know for sure is that I've tried just about every replacement option that I can get locally (and some from rockauto as well) and they've all been plastic. I haven't looked that closely at the handles on my 92 to see if they are plastic or metal, but its covered right now so I can't get inside. I'll have to check on that when I start working on it again.
I've never paid attention to it till I found your video. I have a 96 Buick Roadmaster and a 96 Silverado and those are metal too. The wife's 02 suburban has plastic handles.
Honestly I'm not entirely sure what the official name is for them. I've always just called them door handle bezels, but I don't think they are being produced anymore. Your best bet would be to check a pick and pull/junkyard type place to see what they have, or search ebay.
@@karlar1421 sure thing. Sorry I don't have a better answer, but these OBS trucks are starting to get harder and harder to find the less common parts for.
@@AllThingsMech yes true, BUT: they are starting to become "classics" and now there are more and more replacement parts beginning to be manufactured for them. Example: entire dash panel of my 93 Suburban was cracked and broken, but just recently LMC started selling an entire replacement dash for these older GMT400s. I bought one and it was a little pricey but the quality was FIRST RATE
Snapped my driver side off and found a metal handle like my passenger side in the door panel. No clue where they where they came from but they’re definitely metal. I bought the truck used.
Not sure, never gone that route. If you want to use the existing holes you would need to use small machine screws with a nut on the back since regular wood or sheet metal screws would have nothing to go into. Some 8-32 machine screws may work, possibly 10-32 but those may be too big. Then you run into the issue of getting behind everything with a wrench to hold the nut while you're tightening the screw. Honestly you're better off going and buying a cheap rivet gun and some rivets for $10-$15 then selling it on craigslist if you don't think you'll use it again. Just my opinion.
You could use self tapping sheet metal screws I suppose, but the heads might sit too high for the bezel to go back on correctly. I've never tried that, so I don't know 100%.
Not sure what you're asking my friend...this vid shows you how to replace the handle assembly, part numbers for driver and passenger replacements are in the description. What specifically are you trying to fix? Happy to help if I can.
Ah, you mean the actual plastic part that that you pull the door closed with? Not sure if that's sold as an individual part, pretty sure it's considered part of the interior door panel. You can buy the panels new from Rockauto but they are about $260 + shipping...kinda spendy for an older truck IMO. Best bet would be to find an 88-95 pickup at a salvage yard with the same color interior (if you care about matching it) and pull the whole panel. I'm sure it would be much, much cheaper.
It should be, if the truck actually is a '93 with factory doors from the correct year. All GMT400 OBS C/K 1500/2500/3500 trucks, both Chevy and GMC, had the same interior door panels from '88-'94. In '95, the interior was updated to the newer design with the vertical door pulls, which continued through the end of the GMT400 production run in 2000. Double check your VIN to verify the model year. You either have a newer truck (which wouldn't be a bad thing to discover!), or the doors have been replaced with ones from a salvage yard that came out of a newer vehicle, which isn't uncommon to see in areas where rust is an issue.
I'm not a normal mechanic that works on customer's vehicles, I'm a fleet mechanic that works exclusively for a cattle ranch in a high desert environment. It would be dirty again 30 seconds after it rolled out the door, so why bother wasting the time? I'm paid to get stuff done, not make it look pretty. Thanks for your concern, but I'm well aware of what my job is.
If you're asking if it's possible, sure. If you're suggesting that I should clean that truck, come out and visit. The sand out here gets finer than talcum powder. Cleaning a vehicle is a total waste of time and effort.
thanks this is just what i needed , i wish you lived close to tracy ca id pay you to do it lol, great video thanks
Great job. About time someone covers older vehicles like mine. I have a 1994 K1500 suburban. Great detailed video. Much appreciated.
I noticed for the past recent years these obs trucks from the 80s and 90s are becoming more of collectors classic trucks and many people are restoring them rather than scrapping them.
Yes, I've noticed that too. I understand why though...there is just something special about the 88-98 body style, really nice lines and overall aesthetic. Just my two pennies, anyway.
@@AllThingsMech them and dont forget the 1980s box chevys as well
Absolutely. The square bodies are in a class all of their own, been hunting for an 84-87 for a while now but everybody wants a ton of money for them still, even the rough looking ones.
@@AllThingsMech yeah I noticed you're limited to what parts they still make. Alot of parts have been discontinued for those cars but the obs trucks you can get just about any parts you need that are still made
@@AllThingsMech that's probably the reason why people want alot for the box chevys nowadays because of hard to find parts
Thank you for showing how to pop rivet. Other videos didn’t demonstrate that part 🫡🤙🏻
Subscribed - Saved me a trip to the boneyard to pull an old one. Didn't realize Dorman made these at a very cheap price! My 92 C1500 thanks you.
Glad it was helpful for you! The '93 from this video has been retired and sold, but I'll be working on my 92 K1500 over the winter and hopefully getting it painted, lifted and running again. Great trucks. Thanks for the sub, much appreciated!
You're doing a great job . Thanks for posting. Mine is a 1992 Chevrolet Pickup. with 218,000km. Still running perfect. 305 engine.
This helped me learn how to get the door panel loose, to replace my mirror. Thanks for the video!
thanks for the video opened my door this morning on my 94 silverado heard a ting sound now the door handle feels odd once i look into it this video answered alot of my questions thanks
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You saved me from breaking my door panel.
After doing this job so many times I figured there had to be other people out there who were trying to figure it out. Glad you found it helpful and didn't break anything! It seems like trying to find parts for these trucks is getting harder and harder each year.
@@AllThingsMech Yeah, I went out to my truck this morning and put the key in the lock and it wouldn't turn. I went through the passenger side to the driver door and tried to un-lock it manually and the lock wouldn't move. Tried the power lock and it wouldn't move. Finally I rolled down the window, stood outside and reached in and kept hitting the power lock button and turning the key at the same time several times and it finally unlocked very slowly.
Thanks to you, got the door panel off without breaking it and used your tip on the plastic screw in clips and carefully pulled each one out of the door. Then using shoe-goo, glued each clip back in place in the door panel. I lubed up all the rods, lock, handle etc. and the lock works perfectly now. Went together like a dream. I didn't pop rivet the switch plate back on, I used nice metal screws to zip it back on.
@@AllThingsMech jjn
Thanks to you you made my changing of my 1992 chevy go so smoothly. Thanks again. Jay.
Thank you Jay, I appreciate you watching and I'm glad it was helpful for you! These were some of the best years of chevy pickups IMO - keep her running as long as you can! Take care.
Thanks for posting the part numbers...spent days trying to find them...will replace as soon as it comes in. And yes, those plastic fasteners are a pain!
Glad the info helped you out! The fasteners are great until you need to take them apart...the age combined with the design means they will often just break rather than come apart. Amazon sells new ones that work decently well but aren't quite dimensionally the same.
thanks for taking the time a lot of people start the video half way threw th tear down
Thanks for the info I’m restoring my 1990 single cab short bed sport and I just got new door panels for it and will be adding 454 mirrors so this helps a lot!
looking to replace my door panels kn my chevy short box single cab , i found a door panels in good condition from a extension cab ! does the door panels can fit on my truck ?
@@yamahar1castillo923 yes they will fit!
This helped me a lot hands down best one I've seen
Glad it was helpful for you! Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Thanks for a helpful video....just bought another truck, 92 gmc 2500 4x4 $2400 with good running gear (profess. rebuilt 5.7l about 5 yrs in), but needs tlc on lights and doors, etc.
Awesome video. I'll be doing this to my new to me 94 c1500 I inherited from my mom's passing. The four dislikes are still trying to replace the bezel.
Thanks JR! Very sorry to hear about your mom's passing. Best of luck with the truck, if you ever have any other questions/issues with it please feel free to reach out.
...and I'm sure at least one of those dislikes broke the bezel in half because they jumped ahead. 😆
I know this was posted long ago. I have replaced the left handle 4 times. I did find a metal handle on ebay at Evan Fischer Auto parts. Same cost as the cheap auto parts replacement (Dorman).
@richardhand2685 thank you for sharing! I'll definitely check them out and see about ordering a pair. Much appreciated!
Thank you for taking the time and effort to upload this video. Doing and teaching are really difficult, so appreciate. Liked and subbed.
My pleasure. Thanks for the kind words, glad you found the video helpful!
Best video I've seen yet on this job. I am now doing this on my 1992 Silverado drivers side. I am going to try and just replace the broken compression return spring for the handle. If that doesn't work I will buy the entire part you bought. I'll find out when the spring comes in although its for a 1992 S10 truck I am going to see if it will adapt or with a little modification. I just bought the truck.
Thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate it! I wish it were just a matter of replacing the springs in our case...unfortunately the guys reef on the handles so hard that they snap in half, and the only way to get the handle is to buy the whole assembly. I lubricated the door latch mechanisms really well this time around, and that made the doors much easier to open. Hopefully this will keep them from pulling so hard on the handles, but my confidence isn't that high, haha. Please let me know if the S10 spring works out for you, that would be a great alternative if we have a spring go bad on us. Thanks again, and thank you for watching!
just broke the return spring on the door handle so this helps, thanks
Great video, about to pull mine door panels off as well
Thank you very much I have the same truck and needed a video on this
Thank you. You helped tremendously! Saved and subscribed.
Many thanks, William! Glad it helped you out, and I appreciate the sub! Feel free to reach out with any questions you might have.
My dad just died and he had a 1992 blazer which he passed to me. As an 18 year old I’m overwhelmed by what needs to be done. First the driver side only opens from the outside and the power locks don’t work any solutions? And of course the dash is cracked but I can find a new one. I’m going to replace the carpet and ceiling liner. If I can find some of the original bucket seats in good condition I’ll do that but if not I’ll get some after market seats. He had big plans for the truck and so do I, I just wish he could live to see what it’ll look like. Love you dad
I'm sorry for your loss my man. That's never an easy thing, especially losing a parent. I lost my stepmother to cancer a few years back - time dulls the pain but it never truly goes away. That's good though, it keeps your memories alive and well.
As for the truck, I would start by disassembling the inner door liner, and stripping everything out of the door that you can get to. Window regulator, glass, door lock mechanism, everything. If you have a compressor, get after it with some compressed air, rags and some 409, Zep Dazzle, or whatever you can get your hands on. These doors hold a TON of dirt and debris, and it really gums up the works. Clean everything out the very best you can. Go to home depot and get some PB Blaster graphite spray lubricant for locks, and re-lube everything with it. The graphite spray comes out looking like black spray paint - it's extremely messy but it will leave a nice dry film of graphite on everything that will provide lots of lubrication without attracting a bunch of dirt and grime like oil or grease would. Get some cavity wax to spray into the bottom of the door as well, those pinch welds tend to trap water so the wax will keep the rust at bay for a while. Reassemble everything after you've sprayed it with the graphite and it should be nice and smooth. If it's not, source the problem one component at a time.
Don't let it overwhelm you - even though there's a lot to do, just make a list of what you know needs to be done and tackle the list one thing at a time. Add to the list as things come up, and just keep chipping away at it. The Blazer will turn out great, I'm sure of it. Good luck man, keep me posted on the progress if you don't mind.
The Ranch Mechanic Thanks for the advice. I’ll keep you posted, I’ll probably keep the blazer as a daily driver until it falls over and dies. Hopefully it’s around for when I have a family.
@@giovanniguerra11 the nice thing about the full size blazers is that 350s and 305s are insanely cheap at most junkyards, so it's pretty easy to toss a new motor in them on the cheap and keep them running. Bedliner and seat covers mask the rest of the wear and tear pretty well, haha.
The Ranch Mechanic So I just finished taking apart the doors at 10:12am in my part of Texas. First thing is I think the actual locking mechanism on the drivers side needs to be replaced and I also need new clips that attaches the door panel to the actual door. As for the power locks I think the chip for it under the steering wheel isn’t there because I checked the wiring and it seems to all be in good condition. And as for the switches that controls the driver side and passenger side locks and windows needs to be replaced. One day at a time I guess. Also I’m going to order new tail lights and headlights. Money’s tight but I’ll be patient and take it one part at a time.
@@giovanniguerra11 sorry I missed your update man! TH-cam has been REALLY bad about notifications for the last few months...I've been missing tons of comments and replies, which sucks because I really try to keep up on talking with everyone on here. Glad you're making some progress, have you gotten your wiring squared away yet? I ordered some replacement clips for the door panels on Amazon, they were cheap but are holding up great so far.
Excellent video very helpful thank you!
I bought a 93 Yukon and doing a restoration on it. I'm looking for the plugs that go in to the back of the switches! Do you or does anyone else know where I can buy/find these?
They are still being made, believe it or not. AC Delco still makes the OEM door lock connector, part number PT2317. Standard Motor Products makes the window switch connectors, part number S1227 and S1066 (8 pin and 11 pin connectors, respectively).
@@AllThingsMech Thank you sir. I'm looking for the 5 pin connector. That would plug in to the back of switches you have on the bezel. The white, gray, and black plugs?
I'm pretty sure that's the PT2317 connector. I would go check out rockauto.com and poke around a little, you can navigate through the different categories for your truck and that might help narrow it down. You'll want to look under the "electrical connector" section, hopefully that will get you to where you need to be. Give this a try:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,1993,yukon,5.7l+v8,1166385,electrical-connector,power+window+switch+connector,13111
Thanks for making this video man, nicely done
Sure thing, hope it helped you out. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. Can you give us the door panel clips part number too ?? Thanks
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G4B4NQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for your video. They should never have made these out of plastic . mine broke too.
ya my passenger door handle broke shit sucks
I have a 93 suburban. It's hard to find stuff on it..
El tornillo phillips de que medida es.. por favor
Thanks for posting this. It will help me replace the driver side mirror of my '93 Chevy Suburban K1500. If you still read these comments, could you tell me if there is anything special to do about the wood trim piece (of Van House Trophy Edition) attached, somehow, to the door panel? I mean, will it come off with the panel?
I'm glad it was helpful for you! I'm not familiar with the special edition trucks, but I would imagine that if the wood trim is attached to the inner door panel then it will come off along with the panel. As long as you remove the screw from the door pull in the center, and all of the plastic clips are loose, it technically should slide off like any other door panel.
@@AllThingsMech Thanks for responding! How cool is that (from such an old post)?! I had hoped to remove ONLY the vinyl/plastic trim in order to gain access to the bracket mounting hardware of the side mirror, but discovered that there is a plywood backer panel sandwiched in there somehow. I assume it's there for the wood trim mounting. Still, I believe you are right and the entire door panel should come right off as any other. I am 71 years old, newly widowed, have butter fingers and don't intend to attempt the mirror mounting hardware, but thought I'd get a jumpstart on removing the door panel while I wait for my son to come help me. In the "old days," I was quite the little mechanic, but these days, I'm just a silly old woman thinking I'm all that, only to find out I'm not. Thank goodness for people like you doing TH-cam videos and reading the comments. Thanks again.
That's very sweet of you, thank you for the kind words. 😊
I'm sorry that I didn't understand your original question, but yes you are correct - typically there is no way to remove just the trim pieces; they are usually glued into place so the entire inner door card needs to be pulled out. It's not terribly difficult once the panel is off though, and you sound more than capable of the job so don't count yourself out! I actually have replacement mirrors for my own truck (it's a 92, identical to the 93 shown in the video), and I believe that it's just three 10mm nuts that attach the mirror to the door (plus any requisite wiring that would need to be un-clipped if you have power mirrors). With a ratchet and deep well socket, I bet you could get it done!
On a personal note, please accept my sincerest condolences for your loss. I don't pretend to know anyone's religious preferences and don't want to foist my own beliefs onto you, but death has always been difficult for me. I find comfort in knowing that we will one day be reunited with the ones we've lost here on earth. I genuinely hope that you share a similar belief and find comfort in that, too. Please reach out any time - I always try to respond to comments. Wishing you all the best. 🙂
@@AllThingsMech I was speechless at your wonderful condolences and your rooting me on. Amen to all you have expressed! Thanks, again.
Like the video. Have you checked the hinge pins and bushing?
They were definitely worn out, but this truck got retired from service before I had a chance to get to them.
Could you make a video fixing the locks so they close when you press the power lock once? I have the same issue and can't find a video anywhere
Hey Ryan. This truck is out of service with some other issues at the moment, but if it gets brought back to life I'll see what I can do over the winter. Typically the locks sticking is one of two things - either dirt and gunk slowing the mechanism down, or the lock actuator motor is just worn out and needs to be replaced. Decent ones are about $40/ea from RockAuto. They have a bunch of different options, but I'd stay away from the ultra cheap $10-$15 options they have listed. They are junk.
AWESOME VID DUDE , VERY HELPFUL !
Thanks man, glad it helped!
Job well done!! The guys are a little tough on door handles sounds like, lol!!
Yes, they sure are! Our seasonal guys are extremely hard workers but they put our equipment through the ringer, too. I replaced the driver's side handle last summer, and the NEXT DAY it was broken again, lol. I actually had a whole rant about that in the video but edited it out due to time haha. Thanks Mike!
Mike, I forgot to comment back in may when it happened, but the door handles lasted a whole month this year before they were both broken again! lol
Could you please tell me why the hvac does that? Mine is doing the same.
We retired and sold this truck last year so I never got to the bottom of it, but I believe that one of the blend door actuators stripped a gear. The blend doors control the flow of hot/cool air, and directs it out of whatever vents you choose. The gears that move the blend doors are made of plastic and once they get old and brittle, they strip pretty easily. That's what makes the repetitive popping sound you hear.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. I'll be looking into that. It's quite annoying.
Yes indeed. It's usually a bit of a job to replace them, but if you're planning on keeping the truck for a while it's definitely worth the effort...for your sanity's sake, anyway. 😁
@@ernesthumes2143 Yes it's the blend door actuators. There are three of them under the dash. One near the gas pedal, another one further to the right, and one way under the right side of the dash. The far right one is VERY hard to get to, and on my 93 Suburban, that's the one I needed to replace. I was replacing the entire dash at the time, so I went ahead and replaced all three of them, they are not very expensive.
I guess you took down the 2nd video on installation. I saved it but it is deleted. I needed to
see how the rods went in to the door latch. Thank you.
There was no second video, this one was all inclusive. It's not split into parts. I didn't have a tripod so I don't have any good closeups of the rods, but it's pretty obvious where they go once you get in there. One drops in the the top and the other goes in from behind, then slide the clips closed to hold them in place .
@@AllThingsMech Thank you. I thought you had a video on the lock. I got the
latch in and I hooked up the rods like you said. The door will not close tight, it locks
and I have to open it from the inside. I put a new latch on and I did it right I will
take it apart and see if something came loose. Or maybe the new latch is not the correct one. I do appreciate all your help at least I put the new window motor
in correct, any ideas please reply. Thank you from N. M.
Thanks for the good video, will you be replacing the door lock actuator? Seens like it needs replacing
Hi Jose. We actually just retired this old beast from service a couple weeks ago with about 250k on the clock. It was having some pretty bad starter/alternator issues and stranded some of our cattle folks up on the mountain, and then I found two leaking fuel lines and a bunch of other little things. Trying to talk the boss into letting me buy the motor out of her to put in my '92, so we'll see what happens.
Hello. I have same truck I'm wondering anyone know where to get interior bezel/trim. I'm looking for left and right any help would be appreciated
Try rockauto.com - plug in the year/make/model and see what they have. If a part is still being produced, they usually have it.
Great video thanks for the help you have a new subscriber sir thanks again
Thank you very much! Welcome aboard - I don't have time to post a whole lot right now but I'm trying to get better about it. If you have any questions please ask, I try to stay as active as possible in the comments.
I have a 94 and it has metal handles. Where they plastic before 94?
Interesting! Its possible that they were plastic before 94, or maybe the OEM handles from the factory were metal and all of the aftermarket replacements are plastic? All I know for sure is that I've tried just about every replacement option that I can get locally (and some from rockauto as well) and they've all been plastic. I haven't looked that closely at the handles on my 92 to see if they are plastic or metal, but its covered right now so I can't get inside. I'll have to check on that when I start working on it again.
I've never paid attention to it till I found your video. I have a 96 Buick Roadmaster and a 96 Silverado and those are metal too. The wife's 02 suburban has plastic handles.
Hello. What is the plastic cover panel, bezel thing called? I need replacement and can't find any. Thank you.
Honestly I'm not entirely sure what the official name is for them. I've always just called them door handle bezels, but I don't think they are being produced anymore. Your best bet would be to check a pick and pull/junkyard type place to see what they have, or search ebay.
Awesome. Thank you very much for your reply.
@@karlar1421 sure thing. Sorry I don't have a better answer, but these OBS trucks are starting to get harder and harder to find the less common parts for.
@@AllThingsMech yes true, BUT: they are starting to become "classics" and now there are more and more replacement parts beginning to be manufactured for them. Example: entire dash panel of my 93 Suburban was cracked and broken, but just recently LMC started selling an entire replacement dash for these older GMT400s. I bought one and it was a little pricey but the quality was FIRST RATE
Thank you sir excellent video👍
My pleasure, hoped it helped you out! Thanks for watching!
Snapped my driver side off and found a metal handle like my passenger side in the door panel. No clue where they where they came from but they’re definitely metal. I bought the truck used.
great video!
I wanna replace mine but I wanna use screws instead of rivets, what size screw would I need?
Not sure, never gone that route. If you want to use the existing holes you would need to use small machine screws with a nut on the back since regular wood or sheet metal screws would have nothing to go into. Some 8-32 machine screws may work, possibly 10-32 but those may be too big. Then you run into the issue of getting behind everything with a wrench to hold the nut while you're tightening the screw. Honestly you're better off going and buying a cheap rivet gun and some rivets for $10-$15 then selling it on craigslist if you don't think you'll use it again. Just my opinion.
What size rivet did you use
3/16"
Do you need the repits or could you use small screws
You could use self tapping sheet metal screws I suppose, but the heads might sit too high for the bezel to go back on correctly. I've never tried that, so I don't know 100%.
What about the handles I need some bad mines are holding on by a thread
Not sure what you're asking my friend...this vid shows you how to replace the handle assembly, part numbers for driver and passenger replacements are in the description. What specifically are you trying to fix? Happy to help if I can.
The Ranch Mechanic the plastic handle you use to close the door...
Ah, you mean the actual plastic part that that you pull the door closed with? Not sure if that's sold as an individual part, pretty sure it's considered part of the interior door panel. You can buy the panels new from Rockauto but they are about $260 + shipping...kinda spendy for an older truck IMO. Best bet would be to find an 88-95 pickup at a salvage yard with the same color interior (if you care about matching it) and pull the whole panel. I'm sure it would be much, much cheaper.
I need that door panel!!!
those grey ones are impossible to find
Muy bien. 👌👍
Thank you!!!
or just put some small screws in there to hold it in place... fuck riveting that everytime
What screw size?
Don’t break the trim cover. Over $200 each
Wow.. this one has some good views.
Cowboy special... lol.
That's weird on my 92 the door handles are meatle
Metal
I riveted once as a kid........an oops... they didnt have youtube in 1978.
That's ok, I screwed up plenty of stuff as a kid. 🤣
This is nowhere near the door panels of my 1993 GMC Sierra
It should be, if the truck actually is a '93 with factory doors from the correct year. All GMT400 OBS C/K 1500/2500/3500 trucks, both Chevy and GMC, had the same interior door panels from '88-'94. In '95, the interior was updated to the newer design with the vertical door pulls, which continued through the end of the GMT400 production run in 2000. Double check your VIN to verify the model year. You either have a newer truck (which wouldn't be a bad thing to discover!), or the doors have been replaced with ones from a salvage yard that came out of a newer vehicle, which isn't uncommon to see in areas where rust is an issue.
you didn't think to clean up all that dust that was right in front of your face that dirty you do your job 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🤔🤔🤔😎🤮
I'm not a normal mechanic that works on customer's vehicles, I'm a fleet mechanic that works exclusively for a cattle ranch in a high desert environment. It would be dirty again 30 seconds after it rolled out the door, so why bother wasting the time? I'm paid to get stuff done, not make it look pretty. Thanks for your concern, but I'm well aware of what my job is.
Ummm... Can you wipe down the area before replacing???
If you're asking if it's possible, sure. If you're suggesting that I should clean that truck, come out and visit. The sand out here gets finer than talcum powder. Cleaning a vehicle is a total waste of time and effort.
Thank you!