Good I know it sucks ass all to hell and is demotivating and yeah yeah we all died a little inside as true fans when the biscayne motor was destroyed by poor quality HIGH dollars parts…… these are high quality HIGHER dollar parts keep ‘em that way by doing it right aaaaaaand I promise to like and watch your redo video so at least the hassle makes you a few Pennie’s
No need to pull the engine, Dan..just the trans mount, shitlifter, and the four trans bolts to the bell housing.. Get a couple long bolts and cut the heads off, use 'em to guide the trans to the bell, easy-peasy one man job..
Yes I agree, being in the transmission business for almost 50 years, the release bearing needs to travel forward onto the area of damage to release the clutch. It is a headache but fixing it now is better than after every is together. I do enjoy your channel and has been entertained for years. Will be doing a 4 door conversion on a 59 dodge due to you, ha ha
No fun dancing around parts issues when your excited about making progress. Now step back take a deep say a few @#$%& under your breath. I'm old and remember when you ran into an issue with parts in the 70's 80's and 90's you just hopped into your ride and went to the speed shop. Now it's hurry up and wait like a dog for a bone on the delivery truck to show at your doorstep.
You and your buddy Mortske just have the angriest commenters. Remember that time you said you were perfect and never make mistakes? Me either. People need to just relax, and enjoy watching you do it wrong so we know how to fix stuff when we screw it up, too.
Dan , don't bust your ass. Buy (4) 4 inch long trans bolts cut the heads off the bolts flush and cut slots into the cut off bolts. Now you can install the bolts by hand into the bellhousing., Slip the trans onto the longer bolts. You will find the trans aligns almost perfectly every time. Now you can remove the slotted bolts through the ears of the trans using a heavy duty screwdriver. Remove your new alignment studs and replace with the correct trans bolts. Note! usually two bolts are all you should need to get the trans aligned. Been doing this since the late 60's.
Dan, Three things I learned about the Holley Sniper EFI when I put one on my Vette three years ago. 1) There is a mesh screen on the fuel pressure regulator. I had to remove my mesh screen because it was a very large flow restriction and was forcing fuel pressure up to 90 psi instead of 60 psi like it is supposed to be. Be sure to put a fuel pressure gage in the line going to your Sniper under the hood so that you can monitor the fuel pressure. 2) The coolant temperature sending unit they sent with my Holley Sniper was garbage. I noticed that when the engine was cold from sitting overnight, just before I went to start it up, the coolant temperature gage was not reading the same as the intake air temp sensor. The engine coolant sensor read about 20 degrees warmer than the actual engine temp and the air inlet temp sensor. And when the engine was up to operating temp, it read about 20 degrees cooler than the actual coolant temp. I replaced it with one a bought from the local auto parts store for a 1991 Chevy Truck with 350 engine. That one reads correctly. 3) The electrical plugs on the Holley Sniper that attach to the proprietary Holley fuel injectors are garbage and lack a positive retention device. So after about 300 miles they vibrate and fall off the injectors leaving you stranded. Since these are not accessible from the outside, you have to go into the Sniper Unit to fix them. The fix is to take small zip ties and zip tie the the plugs onto the injectors so they cannot vibrate and fall off. I highly recommend doing this before you try to drive to the US and do Hot Rod Power Tour.
Usually squaring the block to crank centerline is good, but$$$ , once I get offsets where they need to be ,drill,tap, and send in longer bolt.set screws suck.they always seem to move,especially towards torque side.
Always bring the pressure plate down with a triangular tightening pattern one turn on each bolt as you go, otherwise you will damage the finger ring, and cause uneven clutch wear, Don't use that release bearing with the broken collar, it will damage the transmission input support and the clutch. Fixed several already.
You always want to "lift up" on your pilot tool when you tighten up your pressure plate. It compensates for the weight of the disk and you'll have better alignment for the input shaft to go in. Always a little slop with the plastic tools!!
My experience with pressure plates is the fingers should be even or it will be problematic. Throwout being damaged should be replaced. Should haven't came damaged. Seller or shipping company expense.
I really appreciate how you detail every major step to us. Makes it easier for us to avoid mistakes when tackling jobs outside our comfort zones. Thanks again.
Congrats on the sweet parts! You can use a length of chain to lock the flywheel for bolt torquing. Bolt through one link to the block, bolt through another link to a clutch plate hole. Turn motor til it locks! More you can install flywheel bolts to your torque and it won't move. You can also install the clutch plate onto the alignment shaft and hang that first. Then you don't have to fight the clutch plate and pressure plate at the same time.
Hay Dan if you get a old exhaust valve put a 90 degree bend about half way on it's shaft, put it in the engine/bell-housing lean it on the fly wheel stops the fly wheel/engine from turning, as you do up the bolt's etc, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I had a lot of the same issues on my TKX install on my SBM. I used a McLeod release bearing which has a threaded base so it's infinitely adjustable and does not use shims. My clutch fingers were also all over the place so I just averaged out and everything worked just fine. I also verified the gap with feeler gauges after everything was assembled.
I wouldn't sweat that throw out bearing... I ran a SBC in my 65 C-10 for years with a skirt broken off one of the pistons. Motor ran like a dream and pulled pretty hard. You'll be fine...
Good to see Mur back and those are nice parts you are setting up for the SoMaDD Nomad, you should have an excellent tour this summer. There is no substitute for quality so don't lament the strain on your credit card because when you are still driving years down the road without issue the card will be long paid for.
I added an early Tremec six speed to my 56 150 utility..have to move the shifter location forward with a kit..Hurst shifter..works well. Friend installed my BBC while I was moving and I left him an external and internal balanced flywheel..the balancer for my 502" was incorrect for a 396" so had to buy a new flywheel since the correct one was gone..alas! Five years later I've got a leaking main seal..forgot to tell the guy to but a new one in...I built the engine in 1979. Now have a blown head gasket due to timing issues with Sniper EFI...going to bite the bullet and pull the engine..again. Engine was built in 79 for a 74 Camaro that I bracket raced..then went into a 10:90 57 Chevy before landing in my 56 150 business coupe...whew..get tired just thinking about it..LOL Like they say.. Sh?t happens..LOL Keep at it young man...I love watching your builds!
Looking good. I just wish that the shipping companies were just a little more careful with the products that they ship. I ordered a valve cover for an inline 6. When it arrived I almost couldn’t recognize it. Completely taco. Had to straighten to use ha ha
I shared your struggle with the trans, Tony Angelo might be able to bench press a T56 but I sure as hell can’t! Too late now but an extra length bleed hose that you can put into the clutch reservoir makes bleeding the clutch a one man job and means you don’t have to crawl around on the floor. Looking forward to the first drive video. Plus! Good to see Mur back helping you make financially sound decisions….
@9:00 the technical term for that zero,zero,zero,zero quality is "dead nuts". @29:55 I used to get some 5 or 6 inch long proper size bolts, cut off the heads and use them as a guide to take the weight of the trans off my hands. Trans slides right in.
Great job! Just went thru the same saga on a ls gto. Went crazy over measuring but it paid off. Used a twin disc rxt McLeod hardest part was getting the tranny to seat and I have a lift and tranny jack. Next time I will use a old input shaft instead of bs plastic alignment tool. LOL
Same here with my 66 mercury T5 swap. Had to pull it all apart on my back and realign to get the tranny in. Have to press hard on the crappy plastic tool to center that disk while tightening. Need 3 hands but managed it.
Good to see you spending quality time with Mur. Love the comment about wearing the tires😂 Wont be long and the big concern will be the price of gas. Work smart not hard Dan! No way i would consider multiple precise heavy lifts.
so Dan, your going through all this just to blow by everything but the gas pump, nice... let the smoke roll while keeping the wind in the rubber... you call it DDSpeed shop for a reason...
Good to see Mur back. Coming along nicely Dan. I’m really stoked for you that your getting to spend the money on this car. Going to be a great driver. 👍😎✌️
Don't cut down the shifter.... Just add a skull shapped shift knob with red shift light eyes 😂 I'm so jealous.... but I guess watching you put miles on that wicked machine will be almost as good 😊
Thanks for going into such detail on the install/measurements etc. I think the 5 speed stick is going to be great with this car. dual snipers? I'm not so sure.
The Tremec is a great transmission. So is a Muncie 4-speed with nice linkage. It's all about the office of motor management. The H pattern is a sure thing. Especially when you're just banging four gears, spinning donuts, and figure eights. I prefer a 4-speed on the dance floor.
Sometimes a walk away to someplace else to clear the noodle brings clarity in the Garage later [or as in MIB the Philosophy of "Trust the Pie" approach] :-))
its good to see you doing this like an engineer and getting it right. I hate the saying "It is what it is". Its simple, make it right or you will pay for it later. Over the last few days I have been replacing the front end of my small block Ford on my Mustang. The water pump crapped out after 22 year and 200K miles. Not bad but I found it was held on by a load of gash bolts, so I spent a day chasing out the block threads, replacing the timing cover with one without damaged threads and getting the correct bolt lengths for the pump and timing cover. When it is back and running at least I will know I have done my utmost to make it right.
So, the thing you didn't seem to mention about the clutch to throwout clearance is that as the clutch wears, breaks in, or whatever, the fingers on the pressure plate will move out, so being a little on the safe side of .150 in the .160-.170 range is perfect if you dont want to take it back apart to adjust it again as soon. It'll be mint. Run it
Teamwork makes the... Tri-5 Dream work ✌️🙂 Nomads are extra special ❤ Nice work, DD Speed Shop and Mur... you will be flying south before you know it 😉
Boy I hope that throwout bearing is okay... if you end up with a rhythmic vibration that is speed related and your driveline angles are good, drop me a PM and we can discuss the horror that ensued
The hub being deformed on that throw out bearing is probably depressing one or more finger springs on the pressure plate. Might be why it was so difficult to mate to the bell. It's easy to get a long measurement with calipers. If the body of the tool is not perfectly square with the flat surface your measuring from it will read long. Find a way to square it up and your readings will be consistent.
Dan, American Powertrain is just the best, I mean really you get it all in one shot...clutch, pressure plate, Trans mount and crossmember...win, win,win
Never use a damaged part, you never know how deep the cracks go. It sucks having to redo something because you didn't opt to replace a damaged part especially a new part
Center force clutch, that's the way to go!!! I have a GM/Lakewood mechanical throw out system. The price of a juice clutch was a bit too high for me at the time.
I feel for you on the Throwout bearing damage. I would probably have reasoned it out the same way you did and then ended up having to pull the whole thing apart again just like you are going to have to. I always have to tell myself to slowdown and double check everything but I sometimes ignore that little voice.
I would have thought that the other holes in the fly wheel would be for the alignment dowel pins for the pressure plate and not for a larger pressure plate, interesting.
The last time I did a clutch was 1982,on my back on a gravel driveway,car on stands and used a length of broom handle for an alignment tool. Not much fun then and too old now! I like your way better.👍🇨🇦
So all the throwout bearing comments are really weighing on a guy. Got an email in, but I feel like I'm pulling a motor and trans again......
Good I know it sucks ass all to hell and is demotivating and yeah yeah we all died a little inside as true fans when the biscayne motor was destroyed by poor quality HIGH dollars parts…… these are high quality HIGHER dollar parts keep ‘em that way by doing it right aaaaaaand I promise to like and watch your redo video so at least the hassle makes you a few Pennie’s
No need to pull the engine, Dan..just the trans mount, shitlifter, and the four trans bolts to the bell housing..
Get a couple long bolts and cut the heads off, use 'em to guide the trans to the bell, easy-peasy one man job..
Yes I agree, being in the transmission business for almost 50 years, the release bearing needs to travel forward onto the area of damage to release the clutch. It is a headache but fixing it now is better than after every is together. I do enjoy your channel and has been entertained for years. Will be doing a 4 door conversion on a 59 dodge due to you, ha ha
No fun dancing around parts issues when your excited about making progress. Now step back take a deep say a few @#$%& under your breath. I'm old and remember when you ran into an issue with parts in the 70's 80's and 90's you just hopped into your ride and went to the speed shop. Now it's hurry up and wait like a dog for a bone on the delivery truck to show at your doorstep.
You and your buddy Mortske just have the angriest commenters. Remember that time you said you were perfect and never make mistakes? Me either. People need to just relax, and enjoy watching you do it wrong so we know how to fix stuff when we screw it up, too.
Dan , don't bust your ass. Buy (4) 4 inch long trans bolts cut the heads off the bolts flush and cut slots into the cut off bolts. Now you can install the bolts by hand into the bellhousing., Slip the trans onto the longer bolts. You will find the trans aligns almost perfectly every time. Now you can remove the slotted bolts through the ears of the trans using a heavy duty screwdriver. Remove your new alignment studs and replace with the correct trans bolts. Note! usually two bolts are all you should need to get the trans aligned. Been doing this since the late 60's.
Every GM guy has a set of the cut off bolts for alignment pins.
Ima use tihis, thanks.
We need to race our tri fives!! I’m gonna smoke ya!
Dan,
Three things I learned about the Holley Sniper EFI when I put one on my Vette three years ago. 1) There is a mesh screen on the fuel pressure regulator. I had to remove my mesh screen because it was a very large flow restriction and was forcing fuel pressure up to 90 psi instead of 60 psi like it is supposed to be. Be sure to put a fuel pressure gage in the line going to your Sniper under the hood so that you can monitor the fuel pressure.
2) The coolant temperature sending unit they sent with my Holley Sniper was garbage. I noticed that when the engine was cold from sitting overnight, just before I went to start it up, the coolant temperature gage was not reading the same as the intake air temp sensor. The engine coolant sensor read about 20 degrees warmer than the actual engine temp and the air inlet temp sensor. And when the engine was up to operating temp, it read about 20 degrees cooler than the actual coolant temp. I replaced it with one a bought from the local auto parts store for a 1991 Chevy Truck with 350 engine. That one reads correctly.
3) The electrical plugs on the Holley Sniper that attach to the proprietary Holley fuel injectors are garbage and lack a positive retention device. So after about 300 miles they vibrate and fall off the injectors leaving you stranded. Since these are not accessible from the outside, you have to go into the Sniper Unit to fix them. The fix is to take small zip ties and zip tie the the plugs onto the injectors so they cannot vibrate and fall off. I highly recommend doing this before you try to drive to the US and do Hot Rod Power Tour.
Pretty close is better than not close at all. Canadian geometry 👌👌
Can't wait for the vid of that throw out bearing coming back out.
When I saw the inner sleeve of the TOB smashed and distorted this will limit bearing travel
@@davidanderson2393 For me it's not even that. It's I pay good money for a part I'm not keeping damaged garbage.
Ya they'll be taking that apart again.
Thanks got the support....
Welp. Better to fight it Now in the shop, than on some dusty road on Power Tour! 🧐 be like Mike & do it right! 😉
You will not be disappointed in your Tremec trans. I have 2. One in 50 Chev pickup with 383 and other in 30 Ford with 454. fun to row gears.
I miss working with my dad. he built a 1939 Pontiac and helped me on my street rod project. Cherish these moments, Dan.
Usually squaring the block to crank centerline is good, but$$$ , once I get offsets where they need to be ,drill,tap, and send in longer bolt.set screws suck.they always seem to move,especially towards torque side.
Always bring the pressure plate down with a triangular tightening pattern one turn on each bolt as you go, otherwise you will damage the finger ring, and cause uneven clutch wear, Don't use that release bearing with the broken collar, it will damage the transmission input support and the clutch. Fixed several already.
You always want to "lift up" on your pilot tool when you tighten up your pressure plate. It compensates for the weight of the disk and you'll have better alignment for the input shaft to go in. Always a little slop with the plastic tools!!
Dan I think your throw out bearing is supposed to ride on that sleeve. It may hit the bent part and cause you problems
I agree its effed!
Hope he is lucky and trouble free
😂
@@franklindner8259 it wont be
@@StevenAndrews nope..... spend more $
thats where the fingers drop in and the slidey inside part under the foreskin of the throw out bearing
Hey Dan, and when we were young and back in school, we all thought " what do we need math for ". Now you know. Welcome back Muir.
Things will not go well...get a new throw-out bearing that one is compromised my friend !!
Get a replacement!!!
My experience with pressure plates is the fingers should be even or it will be problematic. Throwout being damaged should be replaced. Should haven't came damaged. Seller or shipping company expense.
Your going to love that clutch. I think you're going to have trouble with that smashed part of the throw out bearing. Though.
I really appreciate how you detail every major step to us.
Makes it easier for us to avoid mistakes when tackling jobs outside our comfort zones.
Thanks again.
The nomad is going to be sick I love it awesome job Dan your friend from Louisiana Rick 427
❤❤ love your videos awesome content
Watching you work with mur is just like watching me and my dad work on our ol hot rod's
Congrats on the sweet parts!
You can use a length of chain to lock the flywheel for bolt torquing. Bolt through one link to the block, bolt through another link to a clutch plate hole. Turn motor til it locks! More you can install flywheel bolts to your torque and it won't move.
You can also install the clutch plate onto the alignment shaft and hang that first. Then you don't have to fight the clutch plate and pressure plate at the same time.
Dan For Me This Educational video is The Best one You have ever Put Out.. We take the Clutch between Rounds just about every Pass in Our Comp Car.
Good episode. Even watched the entire 6 minute Summit add. I wish there was even ONE Summit in the Great White North.
I've never even seen a new Transmision. So jealous, congratulations. should be awesome !!
Nice to see the Murminator is back to help you !!!
But yes. Best money I ever spent. I bought mine in 2013 and have been on Power Tour 3 times since. You will love it and love the hydraulic clutch.
Nice!
Hey Dan
Way to go! Too much math for this guy. Good to see Mur back home.
Take care
Nice the nomad is really coming along brings back child hood memories of the sixties early seventies have a good day
Hay Dan if you get a old exhaust valve put a 90 degree bend about half way on it's shaft, put it in the engine/bell-housing lean it on the fly wheel stops the fly wheel/engine from turning, as you do up the bolt's etc, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I had a lot of the same issues on my TKX install on my SBM. I used a McLeod release bearing which has a threaded base so it's infinitely adjustable and does not use shims. My clutch fingers were also all over the place so I just averaged out and everything worked just fine. I also verified the gap with feeler gauges after everything was assembled.
Welcome back Mur, hope you and the Mrs had a good time away from home and Dan-Lol !!!!
I would put it lower toward the floor and use a floor jack like Mur said.
Great to see Mur back helping you 🎉
Good to see Mur back in the shop !! 👍
I wouldn't sweat that throw out bearing... I ran a SBC in my 65 C-10 for years with a skirt broken off one of the pistons. Motor ran like a dream and pulled pretty hard. You'll be fine...
"Should be set Forevermore". - DD Poetry Shop
It’s nice to have nice and you are getting it together really nice Dan . 👍🏻
Good to see Mur back and those are nice parts you are setting up for the SoMaDD Nomad, you should have an excellent tour this summer. There is no substitute for quality so don't lament the strain on your credit card because when you are still driving years down the road without issue the card will be long paid for.
Every video with Murr in it should be a million view video!
I added an early Tremec six speed to my 56 150 utility..have to move the shifter location forward with a kit..Hurst shifter..works well.
Friend installed my BBC while I was moving and I left him an external and internal balanced flywheel..the balancer for my 502" was incorrect for a 396" so had to buy a new flywheel since the correct one was gone..alas!
Five years later I've got a leaking main seal..forgot to tell the guy to but a new one in...I built the engine in 1979.
Now have a blown head gasket due to timing issues with Sniper EFI...going to bite the bullet and pull the engine..again.
Engine was built in 79 for a 74 Camaro that I bracket raced..then went into a 10:90 57 Chevy before landing in my 56 150 business coupe...whew..get tired just thinking about it..LOL
Like they say..
Sh?t happens..LOL
Keep at it young man...I love watching your builds!
Glad to see the nomad I getting ready for power tour. Happy return Mur
Looking good. I just wish that the shipping companies were just a little more careful with the products that they ship. I ordered a valve cover for an inline 6. When it arrived I almost couldn’t recognize it. Completely taco. Had to straighten to use ha ha
I shared your struggle with the trans, Tony Angelo might be able to bench press a T56 but I sure as hell can’t! Too late now but an extra length bleed hose that you can put into the clutch reservoir makes bleeding the clutch a one man job and means you don’t have to crawl around on the floor. Looking forward to the first drive video. Plus! Good to see Mur back helping you make financially sound decisions….
@9:00 the technical term for that zero,zero,zero,zero quality is "dead nuts".
@29:55 I used to get some 5 or 6 inch long proper size bolts, cut off the heads and use them as a guide to take the weight of the trans off my hands. Trans slides right in.
I put a 6 speed in my 35 Chevy, love it!
Hello Papa Merv & Dan . Glad to see you both. From Flint Michigan
I always have the bell housing surfaced. Especially the stamped steel ones.
Great job! Just went thru the same saga on a ls gto. Went crazy over measuring but it paid off. Used a twin disc rxt McLeod hardest part was getting the tranny to seat and I have a lift and tranny jack. Next time I will use a old input shaft instead of bs plastic alignment tool. LOL
Same here with my 66 mercury T5 swap. Had to pull it all apart on my back and realign to get the tranny in. Have to press hard on the crappy plastic tool to center that disk while tightening. Need 3 hands but managed it.
Good to see you spending quality time with Mur. Love the comment about wearing the tires😂
Wont be long and the big concern will be the price of gas.
Work smart not hard Dan! No way i would consider multiple precise heavy lifts.
so Dan, your going through all this just to blow by everything but the gas pump, nice... let the smoke roll while keeping the wind in the rubber... you call it DDSpeed shop for a reason...
Good to see Mur back. Coming along nicely Dan. I’m really stoked for you that your getting to spend the money on this car. Going to be a great driver. 👍😎✌️
Don't cut down the shifter....
Just add a skull shapped shift knob with red shift light eyes 😂
I'm so jealous....
but I guess watching you put miles on that wicked machine will be almost as good 😊
Hey Mur, I hope your holiday was good? Great video Dan!
Thanks for going into such detail on the install/measurements etc. I think the 5 speed stick is going to be great with this car. dual snipers? I'm not so sure.
Nice job Dan
Very cool. And dry fits are the way to go with new stuff
The Tremec is a great transmission.
So is a Muncie 4-speed with nice linkage. It's all about the office of motor management. The H pattern is a sure thing. Especially when you're just banging four gears, spinning donuts, and figure eights.
I prefer a 4-speed on the dance floor.
Problem with old school trans is no overdrive and doing long drives isn’t fun at 3500 rpm’s . That’s why he went with the tkx.
@@chrisw5837 Before the Tremec there was the Doug Nash 4 + 1.
Welcome back Mur, good to see the $$$ parts going in.
I would have used reamer on those holes not a drill bit. Glad I have access to my cousins machine shop. Good job Dan.
Mur, the voice of reason!
Great shows keep up the good work be safe my friend
Sometimes a walk away to someplace else to clear the noodle brings clarity in the Garage later [or as in MIB the Philosophy of "Trust the Pie" approach] :-))
you're real trusting with that intake I had a couple that bolt ripped out and motor fell on my foot
its good to see you doing this like an engineer and getting it right. I hate the saying "It is what it is". Its simple, make it right or you will pay for it later. Over the last few days I have been replacing the front end of my small block Ford on my Mustang. The water pump crapped out after 22 year and 200K miles. Not bad but I found it was held on by a load of gash bolts, so I spent a day chasing out the block threads, replacing the timing cover with one without damaged threads and getting the correct bolt lengths for the pump and timing cover. When it is back and running at least I will know I have done my utmost to make it right.
Great to see you and mur working together! Hope the throw out bearing works
So, the thing you didn't seem to mention about the clutch to throwout clearance is that as the clutch wears, breaks in, or whatever, the fingers on the pressure plate will move out, so being a little on the safe side of .150 in the .160-.170 range is perfect if you dont want to take it back apart to adjust it again as soon. It'll be mint. Run it
Teamwork makes the...
Tri-5 Dream work ✌️🙂
Nomads are extra special ❤
Nice work, DD Speed Shop and Mur... you will be flying south before you know it 😉
Boy I hope that throwout bearing is okay... if you end up with a rhythmic vibration that is speed related and your driveline angles are good, drop me a PM and we can discuss the horror that ensued
Nice progress, Thanks for sharing! 🙂👍
Well done Dan. Good job explaining things along the way. That gearbox is going to be awesome. The WHOLE car is going to be kickass.
Second gear is in jeapordy of future Dan not making afull thro 😂 Thanks for taking me along 🗿
The hub being deformed on that throw out bearing is probably depressing one or more finger springs on the pressure plate. Might be why it was so difficult to mate to the bell.
It's easy to get a long measurement with calipers. If the body of the tool is not perfectly square with the flat surface your measuring from it will read long. Find a way to square it up and your readings will be consistent.
Dan, American Powertrain is just the best, I mean really you get it all in one shot...clutch, pressure plate, Trans mount and crossmember...win, win,win
I've been watching your videos for a long time and this is the best build you've ever had This is great!!!!!!
Awesome update and progress…must make Dan a happy guy…
Good to see you Mur - from one retired shop teacher to another. Snow is all gone here in Minney -80degrees tomorrow but snow this weekend???WTF
The release bearing does ride on the damaged area , hopefully the pedestal doesn’t crack off and grenade your clutch set-up
you're taking this car to the level of maybe even shimming the starter
Never use a damaged part, you never know how deep the cracks go. It sucks having to redo something because you didn't opt to replace a damaged part especially a new part
thats also NOT the part to take a risk on....crappy washers on a alternator bracket maybe
Glad you made the video on lining up the input shaft
Center force clutch, that's the way to go!!! I have a GM/Lakewood mechanical throw out system. The price of a juice clutch was a bit too high for me at the time.
Always lots of fun at DD Speed Shop!! Keep up the great work. Cheers!! 😎
l ve had to slightly enlarge the clutch fork hole to fit my hand in to hold hyd brg while l speared it with input shaft.couldn t see a better way.
awesome build , love this nomad . i just met Mer too in this one cool . cheers .
I feel for you on the Throwout bearing damage. I would probably have reasoned it out the same way you did and then ended up having to pull the whole thing apart again just like you are going to have to. I always have to tell myself to slowdown and double check everything but I sometimes ignore that little voice.
Get some longer Trans to Bell housing bolts, cut the heads off and use them for guide pins when inserting the Trans 👍👍
We need to see Murs new Whip!
Damn ! Nice job Dan, I’ve never seen one dead nuts like that ! 👍
Another great tutorial Dan. Your step by step processing is so easy to follow. Good job Dan!
I would have thought that the other holes in the fly wheel would be for the alignment dowel pins for the pressure plate and not for a larger pressure plate, interesting.
that measure changes as the clutch wears, it gets tighter when you use the clutch
Interesting 🤔 I can’t believe that you have to go through that process but neat to see how to fix a problem like that 😮
counter weights on clutch cover Will rattle @idle
I'll have a clutch waiting on ya down here.
It's not gonna last long.
Hit me up!
The last time I did a clutch was 1982,on my back on a gravel driveway,car on stands and used a length of broom handle for an alignment tool. Not much fun then and too old now! I like your way better.👍🇨🇦
Lookin good my man. Keep up the great work, for after all the work you will have tons of fun to enjoy it.
Hi MUR!!!!!
Welcome back!!!!!
You can stick the clutch alignment tool into the the pressure plate then into the crank to hold the plate in place before you bolt on clutch hat.
Love Mur 'splaning it!
Great video !
Really cool to see you guys do this Dan!
I’d make that shifter longer put that knob shoulder height