I was at Dragon con as tracer and took a picture with the both of you after the panel on saturday! Just wanted to say it was amazing to meet two of my biggest idols you guys were so cool and kind to me and really made my Dragon Con go from awesome to perfect
This is amazing work. I've recently started making stuff myself and you guys have been a don't of knowledge! Thank you so much. Your Sweepy build is one of my favorite so far.
Let's Make nope you didn't miss it. on the LED video last week someone asked about the helmet too and got a reply saying that video would be out in a couple weeks so don't worry,you haven't missed anything and its definitely coming soon :)
ImaginationToForm I was actually curious about that as well... How does removing a resistor up the voltage anyway? My highschool VIR/PIV basics left me confused.
It probably isn't a current limiting resistor he removed. If he removed it and the voltage went up, it was probably half of a voltage divider circuit and removing it restored the voltage to full rail to rail. The package states 3-3.2 volts. .1 volts over likely won't introduce enough heat at all to damage the junction on those things. In that parallel configuration there was no current limiting going on to begin with as current limiting in front of a parallel network will cause all kinds of wacky impedance/current imbalances. If you match the supply voltage to the forward voltage of the LED then you don't need to limit the current because there's no excess being passed through (You actually do want it slightly higher to ensure the turn on voltage happens). An LED has a pretty good internal resistance until you bias it with the desired forward voltage and that's when the resistance drops off rapidly. When it loses it's resistance (it does so logarithmic to the voltage increase I think) , that's when you want to introduce some external resistance to "suck up" the same amount of current that the LED is supposed to consume when the leftover voltage is in play. So say I have an LED that is 3v-3.2 forward voltage, like in the video. If I power it with ~3.2v, no problem, the internal resistance of the LED is still substantial enough to not be seen as a short and will draw 20mA at full brightness (per the package). If I power it with, say, a 9 volt battery, the resistance of the LED significantly drops, so I need to account for that 20mA to keep the desired current of the LED. To do this: 1) Subtract the minimum voltage drop (because safe) from the rail voltage: 9v - 3v = 6v 2) Solve for resistance using result of (1) and 20mA (where 20mA = .020A) using Ohms law R=V/I: 6v/.020A = 300 Ohms 3) Go to next highest standard resistor value if the calculation in (2) does not land on one. 300 Ohms is a standard value, but if it weren't we'd go up to 330 Ohms. 4) $$$PROFIT$$
Hrm I guess that makes sense too. I thought they would had used a voltage regulator though to take it from the 9v to 3v for the original LED and chip they must be using to modulate. But he didnt really show the whole board.
The thing to the right of the black wire? I think that's a transistor with a resistor across the base. That's likely acting as a switch to turn on to the LED string from a microcontroller output pin.
Well done! I thought about the same for my NCR Ranger Helmet, this confirm that what I intend to do will work! Also awesome video and cosplays as always!
Hello there, I am also working on an NCR build, did you happen to get this working at a satisfactory volume? Just wondering if its worth the extra work.
Silent1fd hi! I found pro mic amplifier for the same price as a toy like shown here... So I would recommend using that instead, but as shown in the video it seems that the volume is quite enough to be heard in a crowded place!
Bill this is awesome! Yes, those leds will be just fine if they're a bit overdriven. We do this kind of stuff all the time in the Custom Lightsaber Community ^_^. Nice job! Looks great!
Hi that was a grateful video on the voice. Iam currently using eva on my build ( cylon centurion ) I have made the leg guntets and now on making the pattern for the arms then to the chest plate as always your video give me great experience in knowing how to start each project. Thankyou
ImaginationToForm Good to see I'm not the only one. Be intresting to see it done from scratch unless the toy can be bought online. Tho I suppose you could canablize a voice mod from a Halloween shop, add a few leds, make a trigger of sorts and boom
This is awesome. I am looking at customizing my motorcycle helmet. I am looking for the right one right now, but I believe I can use your skills towards my helmet. Thank you.
Punished Props Keep the prop ideas coming. I am also trying to figure out how to turn my car interior hood light into a led biohazard symbol. Got any ideas can you give me a hand? Thank you a lot. The Ogre
This is really cool! I want to add a voice modulator to my Shoretrooper costume, and I'm sure I can find a stormtrooper toy to cannibalize for it. How to sound like Sweepy 101: finish every sentence with "Guardian."
That turned out really well. I have to admit, electronics are my personal weakness when it comes to making things and I've resorted to gutting many toys for their boards in the past. Perhaps I should make the effort to get some more practice in, but I always seem to put it off for some reason. Keep up the excellent videos!
Again you all nailed what I was looking for and I was able to do this for my robot head (protogen for the furries out there). Thanks again for a great tutorial!
Amazing! Is there any way to make it have a certain tone always? Cause the toy has buttons so you can change the voice. Could you change it whenever you want to?
Unfortunately, that is something I know very little about. My only guess is that you might need to move the mic and speaker further away from one another.
The voltage across an LED is relatively constant (only goes up a little as you increase the current) and depends mostly on the color of the LED. Blue LEDs have a voltage drop of about 3V. The purpose of the resistor is to limit the current going to the LED, so it doesn't burn up. Ideally, you would have a separate resistor for each LED, but the if the LEDs are absolutely identical, then you can get away with just one resistor (and most cheap products do that). The proper way to do this would have been to (I didn't count how many LEDs you have and I don't know what theri current rating is, so I'm just guessing as far as those numbers go): a) Measure the voltage to the LEDs (with the LEDs removed). b) Calculate the difference between the input voltage and whatever your replacement LEDs want, say 4.5V (3xAA) - 3V (blue LED) = 1.5V. c) Decide on how much current you want the LEDs to use (let's say 20mA/LED), so if you had 8 LEDs, 160mA. d) Calculate 1.5V / 160mA (Google search allows you to do calculations with units like this - try it!). e) Install a 10Ω resistor (or eight 75Ω resistors in series with each LED, if you wanted to do it really properly). The lazy, no-math version would be to replace put a potentiometer (adjustable resistor) in series with the LEDs, giving you a way to both limit the current and adjust the brightness. A trimmer resistor doesn't take up much space and allows you to get better battery life than the circuit where you just removed the resistor completely. Having said that, 10Ω isn't all that much and there are internal resistances (and resistances from the wires etc), so it's possible your LEDs aren't going to burn up any time soon. If you have a multimeter, you might want to measure the current going through the LEDs just to be sure. The risk with using just a single resistor (or none) is that if one of the LEDs has a lower internal resistance, it will take more current than the others. Once it burns up and dies, the rest of the LEDs all become a bit brighter and potentially the brightest one of the remaining ones burns up. This repeats until all the LEDs have died. If you are using alkaline batteries (high internal resistance), the more current you pull, the lower the output voltage is, so the battery can kind of help you regulate the power to the LEDs. I met you briefly at the RPF meeting at DragonCon last year...We didn't meet this year. Would have been nice to show you the costume I made for this year (an exoskeleton + sword with about 200 neopixels total, a 1" OLED display and two Adafruit Trinket-sized Arduinos). It is almost completely 3D-printed.
This is brilliant!! The only thing I realized i could still hear Brittany's voice. How can I put a voice changer in the costume head, but with more volume so I can't hear my normal voice at all?? 🤔🤔🤔
The direction of the speaker makes a big difference. The helmet design we had didn’t have room for a forward facing speaker. There’s also voice modulator kits that are much louder than this repurposed toy.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a simple voice changer that gives off less of a robotic sound, and more of a creepy voice? I’ve been looking, but can only find apps. :/
Does it matter that they were over 3v? I'm no electrical savant but current is only pulled not pushed right? so wouldn't the lights only pull what they needed?
would it be good to put that mesh behind the visor as well to obscure the little bit of her eyes that show through or would it obscure her vision too much? I've used that mesh before on other costumes and can still see fine out of it but only when it was the mesh alone.
Sorry I don't remember exactly what it was. I got it at a local Fry's electronics. The staff there, or any local electronics supplier, can help you pick out what you'll need.
I know this is from a million years ago now, but do you remember if you had any issues with the toy lighting up by voice? I got this for a cosplay helmet but the LEDs only light up if my mouth is literally on the microphone, not sure if my model is just defective 🤔
i'm doing something very similar right now, actually! luckily, my helmet is bigger, though, so I'm hoping to be able to put in enough padding so my own voice is completely blocked out (I have a far more masculine voice than the character in question, since the character was inspired largely by Asimo, and its brother the Honda P4)
I have a question how do you Make a voice change your mask out of a voice changer that is meant for gaming and or computers Because I want it coming out of speakers and it won’t work a lot of money on it
This is so stupid its smart... WIll absolutely note that down in case i need the idea. Did you guys have any issues with the wiring aside the tiny resistance or did you manage to scrap it up directly from the kit?
The toy was pretty close to what we needed, so the switch modification and resistor removal were all that needed altering. No issues so far--it held up all throughout the convention on one battery. I think reinforcing all the connections with hot glue helped prevent any fragile connections from coming loose.
I'm hoping to do a similar build for my Carnage costume for Halloween, but I'm stuck on one issue. What did you about the buttons on the side of the toy?
I've been trying to make a voice synthesizer that sounds like the daleks from Doctor who and then the cylons from the old Battlestar Galactica but had no luck how can you do it. Just wondering.
I wanna but some extra wires. But i am not really good with us stuff but. Do i need specific wires. Or will any wires work. Or does anybody know the exact wires they used?
Ok, so I know this is not related to this video at all; however, I am a noob and I'm on my 5th helmet. I know PP has put out a "glueing your seams just right" video already, however; I never seem to get all of them just right. I dremel them even, but it leaves a gritty "sanded" look, no matter how much Mod Podge or DAP filler I use (of course with fine sanding as well). How do I correct this, or is foam simply not the medium to use for that perfectly smooth, shiny finish? Maybe pepakura and resin? However, I really don't want to go down that toxic, and messy road. Thanks.
Foam can really only be finished to a certain level of smoothness. If you need it to be perfectly shiny, using a more rigid material is going to be the way to go.
For a super smooth and/or shiny finish you'll need to experiment with different finishes/coatings for your foam. I believe that PP has one, and there's others on TH-cam that you can check out as well. I know that one TH-camr, XRobot(?), has experimented with a rotocasting resin with some interesting results. it created a hard, smooth finish that once painted looked really good. He only coated the front and sides of his test pieces and not the back, so there might be some issues with the foam flexing and cracking the finish, but that might not be an issue if coated the foam both front and back, completely encasing it in a hard shell.
Riceball01 I was trying to stay away from resin due to it's toxicity, but I may just have to upgrade my PPE and get into it. It seems to be the only way get what I'm looking for. Thanks!
I tried messing with one of these cheep voice changers before and had vary little luck, basically had to have the mike right in my mouth to get it to work. Did you run into any problems like this or did the one you found pick up sound better?
Punished Props thanks for the reply, and maybe I just got a dud, the one I was playing with didn't have the lights ether. Heck for only seven bucks its not braking the bank to try again. =)
I actualy used the same toy in one of my costumes before and I sounded pretty week . no one can hear the voice. and for the lights I went with an old bulb that required a lot of current and voltage so I had to make a transistor switch for the led to flicker it on and off. and I also used a walkie talkie in front of the voice changer so I could talk from far away and scare people. my costume was a unmaned dalek out of cardboard.
Dear Bill, I've got a big project on which I work from time to time. It's a Groot cosplay and I have to do a lot 'til it's finished. Well, I want to use a voice modulator, too but in Germany I didn't find a good one. Do you think it would be possible to only make my voice deeper with this toy? I don't want to have a distorted voice and most of the time this is what a voice changer do. Maybe you are able to help? :)
You should alwas put in a resistor, in worst case the LEDs will draw more and more current and end up exploading. Possibly throwing sharpnels into your eyes
Yeah, keep telling yourself that... :P Sure LEDs can fizzle out, but they can also explode, this will most likely not happen in this case but without reverse engineering the circuit... who knows? Certainly looked like you just winged it
Hello! New, but big fan from Canada 🍁 Seeing this sweepy cosplay come together has inspired my husband and I to try and make Legion from Mass Effect. I just want to ask if you two would ever thought of making legion as well?
I like this, but personally I prefer an amplifier to a childrens voice changer. It gets a similar projecting effect without some of the kinks in voice changers.
Nice! I love being able to repurpose things on the cheap =P On an unrelated note, in the few mask builds I've done, the visor fogging up from my breath has been a serious issue. Any tips for reducing that? I often worry that if I start putting electronics in there, the moisture will short something out o.o;
For wrapping wires this stuff is fantastic, but you have to be able to feed everything through it. www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-50BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YE0V1RCZ6VBBXG3B27QW Very flexible. If you have to put it on after the fact this stuff is almost as soft and flexible. {It wouldn't let me post a link but if you search for "woven wire wrap" it's the one that is split so you don't have to put everything through the wrap. I find the spiral wrap kind of a PITA, too stiff, but YMMV.
I come from the future, the lights worked out just fine at DragonCon
HAHA! Yes they did. =D
You guys are just THE BEST!!! Thank you for years and years of awesome, inspiring videos!
Awe, thank you so much!
I was at Dragon con as tracer and took a picture with the both of you after the panel on saturday! Just wanted to say it was amazing to meet two of my biggest idols you guys were so cool and kind to me and really made my Dragon Con go from awesome to perfect
Fantastic meeting you too! =D
This is relationship goals. I want someone to craft cool stuff with. :D
Indeed.
Same.
Would be sooo Niiice!!!...
i was searching, mask and mini mic aaaand once more i end here, guys you made my day
This is amazing work. I've recently started making stuff myself and you guys have been a don't of knowledge! Thank you so much. Your Sweepy build is one of my favorite so far.
You're welcome! =D
Did I miss where she made the actual helmet? I've really enjoyed the rest of the Sweepy build but haven't seen the helmet build.
Let's Make nope you didn't miss it. on the LED video last week someone asked about the helmet too and got a reply saying that video would be out in a couple weeks so don't worry,you haven't missed anything and its definitely coming soon :)
Let's Make Still a little puzzled how the blue transparent piece was made. How did I miss that?
Melissa Quinn it was probably vacuum formed. They'll probably explain it in the helmet build video later on
We'll have a video on the helmet build in a week or two. It was published out of order because we were in a rush to get things done for Dragon Con.
@@punishedprops Yo Dude Just Wanna Know Something Why Did You Use A 3 AAA Pack Instead Of The 9v?
Neat reuse. Though that resister is there for current limiting not voltage. I hope LEDs won't burn out at wrong time.
ImaginationToForm I was actually curious about that as well... How does removing a resistor up the voltage anyway? My highschool VIR/PIV basics left me confused.
It probably isn't a current limiting resistor he removed. If he removed it and the voltage went up, it was probably half of a voltage divider circuit and removing it restored the voltage to full rail to rail. The package states 3-3.2 volts. .1 volts over likely won't introduce enough heat at all to damage the junction on those things. In that parallel configuration there was no current limiting going on to begin with as current limiting in front of a parallel network will cause all kinds of wacky impedance/current imbalances. If you match the supply voltage to the forward voltage of the LED then you don't need to limit the current because there's no excess being passed through (You actually do want it slightly higher to ensure the turn on voltage happens). An LED has a pretty good internal resistance until you bias it with the desired forward voltage and that's when the resistance drops off rapidly. When it loses it's resistance (it does so logarithmic to the voltage increase I think) , that's when you want to introduce some external resistance to "suck up" the same amount of current that the LED is supposed to consume when the leftover voltage is in play.
So say I have an LED that is 3v-3.2 forward voltage, like in the video. If I power it with ~3.2v, no problem, the internal resistance of the LED is still substantial enough to not be seen as a short and will draw 20mA at full brightness (per the package). If I power it with, say, a 9 volt battery, the resistance of the LED significantly drops, so I need to account for that 20mA to keep the desired current of the LED. To do this:
1) Subtract the minimum voltage drop (because safe) from the rail voltage: 9v - 3v = 6v
2) Solve for resistance using result of (1) and 20mA (where 20mA = .020A) using Ohms law R=V/I: 6v/.020A = 300 Ohms
3) Go to next highest standard resistor value if the calculation in (2) does not land on one. 300 Ohms is a standard value, but if it weren't we'd go up to 330 Ohms.
4) $$$PROFIT$$
Hrm I guess that makes sense too. I thought they would had used a voltage regulator though to take it from the 9v to 3v for the original LED and chip they must be using to modulate. But he didnt really show the whole board.
OH at 1:31 that 3 prong item might be voltage regulator. But hard to say for sure. Hey Bill just take that board out so we can looksy...lul.
The thing to the right of the black wire? I think that's a transistor with a resistor across the base. That's likely acting as a switch to turn on to the LED string from a microcontroller output pin.
No questions. But I do want to say "Thank You". I was looking for a voice changer to add to my Halo Armor. This will fit perfectly.
You guys have truly out done yourselves! This is so AWESOME!!
Thanks so much!
I used those same blue LEDs for my uncle’s light saber! They give an ultraviolet effect!
Well done! I thought about the same for my NCR Ranger Helmet, this confirm that what I intend to do will work! Also awesome video and cosplays as always!
Thanks!
Hello there, I am also working on an NCR build, did you happen to get this working at a satisfactory volume? Just wondering if its worth the extra work.
Silent1fd hi! I found pro mic amplifier for the same price as a toy like shown here... So I would recommend using that instead, but as shown in the video it seems that the volume is quite enough to be heard in a crowded place!
so
does patrolling the mojave actually make you wish for a nuclear winter?
i was also considering this for an NCR Ranger build lmao, this is four years later but howd it end up working out for you?
Bill this is awesome! Yes, those leds will be just fine if they're a bit overdriven. We do this kind of stuff all the time in the Custom Lightsaber Community ^_^. Nice job! Looks great!
Fantastic! Thanks for the feedback. We used it all weekend at Dragon Con and it worked great.
Punished Props Awesome!
Great call Britt! I love finding tech that already does the job you need it to do! I enjoyed bumping into you two at DragonCon!
Hope you had a fun DragonCon! We had a blast :)
Hi that was a grateful video on the voice. Iam currently using eva on my build ( cylon centurion ) I have made the leg guntets and now on making the pattern for the arms then to the chest plate as always your video give me great experience in knowing how to start each project.
Thankyou
That's great! Tho I wonder how you would do it if you had to build it without that toy
Good question. It would be good to see it done without the toy.
ImaginationToForm Good to see I'm not the only one. Be intresting to see it done from scratch unless the toy can be bought online. Tho I suppose you could canablize a voice mod from a Halloween shop, add a few leds, make a trigger of sorts and boom
Here's another way to do voice effects: learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-wave-shield-audio-shield-for-arduino/design?view=all
Ahh Bill your Marriott shirt! That's so great!!
This is awesome. I am looking at customizing my motorcycle helmet. I am looking for the right one right now, but I believe I can use your skills towards my helmet. Thank you.
Excellent!
Punished Props
Keep the prop ideas coming.
I am also trying to figure out how to turn my car interior hood light into a led biohazard symbol. Got any ideas can you give me a hand? Thank you a lot. The Ogre
Thank you so much for the plastic mesh! I've been needing something like this for future works and i thought i'd have to use real metal mesh!!!
You're welcome!
This is really cool! I want to add a voice modulator to my Shoretrooper costume, and I'm sure I can find a stormtrooper toy to cannibalize for it. How to sound like Sweepy 101: finish every sentence with "Guardian."
Idk why but I got really excited when he started talking circuit stuff. We’re currently doing that kind of thing in physics :))
Right on!
This series was awesome.
That turned out really well. I have to admit, electronics are my personal weakness when it comes to making things and I've resorted to gutting many toys for their boards in the past. Perhaps I should make the effort to get some more practice in, but I always seem to put it off for some reason.
Keep up the excellent videos!
Thanks! Good luck on your future experiments!
Again you all nailed what I was looking for and I was able to do this for my robot head (protogen for the furries out there). Thanks again for a great tutorial!
You guys are brilliant and a joy to watch. Such a cool helmet.
+Nerd Berd Thanks so much!
Amazing! Is there any way to make it have a certain tone always? Cause the toy has buttons so you can change the voice. Could you change it whenever you want to?
This is AMAZING! Such a fun build.
Thanks!
This is really cool (and I know nothing about the Sweepy character involved).
Awesome just in time, I've been looking for something like this!
Splendid!
Did the same with a stormtrooper Helmet for my Nox cosplay XD
Holy shit ! The way you modified that cheap elector board is like magic to me... o_O
is a voice modulator something changign the voice? so cool
Hi, thanks for the tutorial! I’m having a mic feedback issue coming out of the speaker. How could I fix that?
Unfortunately, that is something I know very little about. My only guess is that you might need to move the mic and speaker further away from one another.
@@punishedprops Thank you for the reply!
Would it all be possible for the voice modulator to be wired into a stereo female jack so you could use an external speaker?
Absolutely!
Is there any sort of feedback or echo from from the mic to the speaker and back? Also how well heard is it in a crowd?
Quick question: if you didn't need the LEDs, can you simply remove them without changing anything on the board?
That's amazingly helpful for something I'm making but do you think you could do it with LED strips instead of individual lights?
+BlackStartheSorcerer Sure, so long as they'll run on the 1.5-3.5 voltage range.
+BlackStartheSorcerer Most automotive LED strips run on 12v, which would not work.
Ahaha blast from the past - Bearded Bill also without glasses :)
Crazy right?
@@punishedpropsyeah 😎 I was totin a goatee for years but now I have a "whatever beard" 😁
Awesome Project, and Awesome shirt!
What type of wiring did you use
The voltage across an LED is relatively constant (only goes up a little as you increase the current) and depends mostly on the color of the LED. Blue LEDs have a voltage drop of about 3V. The purpose of the resistor is to limit the current going to the LED, so it doesn't burn up. Ideally, you would have a separate resistor for each LED, but the if the LEDs are absolutely identical, then you can get away with just one resistor (and most cheap products do that).
The proper way to do this would have been to (I didn't count how many LEDs you have and I don't know what theri current rating is, so I'm just guessing as far as those numbers go):
a) Measure the voltage to the LEDs (with the LEDs removed).
b) Calculate the difference between the input voltage and whatever your replacement LEDs want, say 4.5V (3xAA) - 3V (blue LED) = 1.5V.
c) Decide on how much current you want the LEDs to use (let's say 20mA/LED), so if you had 8 LEDs, 160mA.
d) Calculate 1.5V / 160mA (Google search allows you to do calculations with units like this - try it!).
e) Install a 10Ω resistor (or eight 75Ω resistors in series with each LED, if you wanted to do it really properly).
The lazy, no-math version would be to replace put a potentiometer (adjustable resistor) in series with the LEDs, giving you a way to both limit the current and adjust the brightness. A trimmer resistor doesn't take up much space and allows you to get better battery life than the circuit where you just removed the resistor completely. Having said that, 10Ω isn't all that much and there are internal resistances (and resistances from the wires etc), so it's possible your LEDs aren't going to burn up any time soon. If you have a multimeter, you might want to measure the current going through the LEDs just to be sure.
The risk with using just a single resistor (or none) is that if one of the LEDs has a lower internal resistance, it will take more current than the others. Once it burns up and dies, the rest of the LEDs all become a bit brighter and potentially the brightest one of the remaining ones burns up. This repeats until all the LEDs have died. If you are using alkaline batteries (high internal resistance), the more current you pull, the lower the output voltage is, so the battery can kind of help you regulate the power to the LEDs.
I met you briefly at the RPF meeting at DragonCon last year...We didn't meet this year. Would have been nice to show you the costume I made for this year (an exoskeleton + sword with about 200 neopixels total, a 1" OLED display and two Adafruit Trinket-sized Arduinos). It is almost completely 3D-printed.
This is brilliant!! The only thing I realized i could still hear Brittany's voice. How can I put a voice changer in the costume head, but with more volume so I can't hear my normal voice at all?? 🤔🤔🤔
The direction of the speaker makes a big difference. The helmet design we had didn’t have room for a forward facing speaker. There’s also voice modulator kits that are much louder than this repurposed toy.
@@punishedprops , ok, thanks for the info!!! 😁😁😁
Did the LEDs needed to be blue? Since they were placed behind a blue visor, wouldn't the visor filter give off that blue hue with white LEDs?
With the red LEDs it would have been more of a purple. If they were white or even green LEDs originally it wouldn't have been as much of an issue.
Amazing work as always
Does anyone have any suggestions for a simple voice changer that gives off less of a robotic sound, and more of a creepy voice?
I’ve been looking, but can only find apps. :/
Does it matter that they were over 3v? I'm no electrical savant but current is only pulled not pushed right? so wouldn't the lights only pull what they needed?
To be honest I'm not sure
would it be good to put that mesh behind the visor as well to obscure the little bit of her eyes that show through or would it obscure her vision too much? I've used that mesh before on other costumes and can still see fine out of it but only when it was the mesh alone.
That's a good idea!
Can you link some of the wire you used for the connections?
Sorry I don't remember exactly what it was. I got it at a local Fry's electronics. The staff there, or any local electronics supplier, can help you pick out what you'll need.
I know it is a noob question but what is that wire called so I can try to look it up on Amazon?
I know this is from a million years ago now, but do you remember if you had any issues with the toy lighting up by voice? I got this for a cosplay helmet but the LEDs only light up if my mouth is literally on the microphone, not sure if my model is just defective 🤔
is there a way to install a voice changer in a mask without soldering and stuff
You could probably find a way to use one out of the box, but it may end up not sounding or functioning quite the way you want.
i'm doing something very similar right now, actually! luckily, my helmet is bigger, though, so I'm hoping to be able to put in enough padding so my own voice is completely blocked out (I have a far more masculine voice than the character in question, since the character was inspired largely by Asimo, and its brother the Honda P4)
Cool! Good luck with the build.
Did you change the battery?
so if you getg 1.5 V leds, you can skip the whole resistor removal part?
Yes, but I'm not sure if 1.5v LEDs exist.
Thanks, i may just have to buy a soldering iron then.
I wish I would be able to build so cool stuff
Couldn't adding a pot near the ic allow you to change the pitch of the modulator?
+albhednomad Probably. The toy has its own switches that let you alter the pitch. That was enough for our purposes.
I have a question how do you Make a voice change your mask out of a voice changer that is meant for gaming and or computers Because I want it coming out of speakers and it won’t work a lot of money on it
were did you get the kids toys want to build crysis helmet and i want it to have the voice of the profet
Check out the links in the video description
I might use this for a Protomen-style helmet.
That would be awesome!
I wanna use this method but how would you add extra leds to the same circuit?
You could wire in more of the same LEDs in parallel to what's already there.
This is so stupid its smart... WIll absolutely note that down in case i need the idea. Did you guys have any issues with the wiring aside the tiny resistance or did you manage to scrap it up directly from the kit?
The toy was pretty close to what we needed, so the switch modification and resistor removal were all that needed altering. No issues so far--it held up all throughout the convention on one battery. I think reinforcing all the connections with hot glue helped prevent any fragile connections from coming loose.
That's awesome! I really can't wait to see the whole thing.
Will there be a video on the helmet build?
Yes, soon.
I'm hoping to do a similar build for my Carnage costume for Halloween, but I'm stuck on one issue. What did you about the buttons on the side of the toy?
I've been trying to make a voice synthesizer that sounds like the daleks from Doctor who and then the cylons from the old Battlestar Galactica but had no luck how can you do it. Just wondering.
Hmm I'm not sure
This can work with any cosplay voice right?
Man, that is pretty damn cool. Well done.
Really fun video, can someone tell me what is a good selection of devices that change your voice to sound like Batman, where to buy them.?
Hey! I was wondering if you could tell me how to make a glitchy voice changer? I need to figure it out for a costume I'm making......
You should do an in-depth tutorial on LEDs, that would help so much!
Here's a great tutorial that Kamui did: th-cam.com/video/4HR6yDJDf6w/w-d-xo.html
Woah she's awesome!
How did you make the blue, translucent face plate?
We will cover that in an upcoming video.
I wanna but some extra wires. But i am not really good with us stuff but. Do i need specific wires. Or will any wires work. Or does anybody know the exact wires they used?
We used 22 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire, but anything like that should work.
Hey Bill if you were to make the Arkham Knight helmet you can do the same technique here for his voice module.
Ok, so I know this is not related to this video at all; however, I am a noob and I'm on my 5th helmet. I know PP has put out a "glueing your seams just right" video already, however; I never seem to get all of them just right. I dremel them even, but it leaves a gritty "sanded" look, no matter how much Mod Podge or DAP filler I use (of course with fine sanding as well). How do I correct this, or is foam simply not the medium to use for that perfectly smooth, shiny finish? Maybe pepakura and resin? However, I really don't want to go down that toxic, and messy road. Thanks.
Foam can really only be finished to a certain level of smoothness. If you need it to be perfectly shiny, using a more rigid material is going to be the way to go.
For a super smooth and/or shiny finish you'll need to experiment with different finishes/coatings for your foam. I believe that PP has one, and there's others on TH-cam that you can check out as well. I know that one TH-camr, XRobot(?), has experimented with a rotocasting resin with some interesting results. it created a hard, smooth finish that once painted looked really good. He only coated the front and sides of his test pieces and not the back, so there might be some issues with the foam flexing and cracking the finish, but that might not be an issue if coated the foam both front and back, completely encasing it in a hard shell.
Punished Props Ok then, I'll start researching and trying some other materials. Thanks!
Riceball01 I was trying to stay away from resin due to it's toxicity, but I may just have to upgrade my PPE and get into it. It seems to be the only way get what I'm looking for. Thanks!
Brilliant really enjoyed this one 😀👍
I tried messing with one of these cheep voice changers before and had vary little luck, basically had to have the mike right in my mouth to get it to work. Did you run into any problems like this or did the one you found pick up sound better?
The mic was very close to Britt's mouth, so it worked just fine.
Punished Props thanks for the reply, and maybe I just got a dud, the one I was playing with didn't have the lights ether. Heck for only seven bucks its not braking the bank to try again. =)
I have that exact same megaphone! the batteries are kind of corroded in though
I actualy used the same toy in one of my costumes before and I sounded pretty week . no one can hear the voice. and for the lights I went with an old bulb that required a lot of current and voltage so I had to make a transistor switch for the led to flicker it on and off. and I also used a walkie talkie in front of the voice changer so I could talk from far away and scare people. my costume was a unmaned dalek out of cardboard.
Anyone know a voice overlayer? Like, I make a noise and It comes out as a growl or something?
So how would I do it but not the robot voice?
Dear Bill,
I've got a big project on which I work from time to time. It's a Groot cosplay and I have to do a lot 'til it's finished. Well, I want to use a voice modulator, too but in Germany I didn't find a good one. Do you think it would be possible to only make my voice deeper with this toy? I don't want to have a distorted voice and most of the time this is what a voice changer do. Maybe you are able to help? :)
Yes this toy has an option to make your voice deeper.
Punished Props So I should give it a try. Thanks a lot. :)
Could I install this in a Watch Dogs 2 - Wrench Mask?
I'm not sure
Im gonna take note of this for my Red X cosplay..
I actually had that toy as a kid.
He sounds like beemo!!its awesome!!!
cant wait to see some destiny 2 items and weapons.
Me too!
How to make the helmet?
Very cool.
Is this type of info in your book?
Not this specifically. I do have some basic lighting tips in there though.
Punished Props sweet I’m getting the book now
I need to figure out how I can do this for a mettaton cosplay.
thank you! I will be using this to be Bill Cipher!
Heck yeah!
You should alwas put in a resistor, in worst case the LEDs will draw more and more current and end up exploading. Possibly throwing sharpnels into your eyes
LEDs don't really explode, they just kind of fizzle out. Everything's going to be OK.
Yeah, keep telling yourself that... :P
Sure LEDs can fizzle out, but they can also explode, this will most likely not happen in this case but without reverse engineering the circuit... who knows? Certainly looked like you just winged it
wow. This is awesome
Thanks!
I’m wanting to do this for a protogen fursuit
Hello! New, but big fan from Canada 🍁
Seeing this sweepy cosplay come together has inspired my husband and I to try and make Legion from Mass Effect. I just want to ask if you two would ever thought of making legion as well?
That's awesome! Legion sounds like a super cool build--have fun! We currently don't have any plans to do a geth cosplay.
I was at your meet and greet at dragon con
Thanks for hanging out! =D
Brittany needs to head to the Midnight Launch of Destiny 2
That would be fantastic!
I like this, but personally I prefer an amplifier to a childrens voice changer. It gets a similar projecting effect without some of the kinks in voice changers.
Nice! I love being able to repurpose things on the cheap =P
On an unrelated note, in the few mask builds I've done, the visor fogging up from my breath has been a serious issue. Any tips for reducing that? I often worry that if I start putting electronics in there, the moisture will short something out o.o;
We got some visor de-fogging spray from a motorcycle store that worked pretty well.
Thanks! I'll give that a shot.
I wanna buy it
For wrapping wires this stuff is fantastic, but you have to be able to feed everything through it.
www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-50BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YE0V1RCZ6VBBXG3B27QW
Very flexible.
If you have to put it on after the fact this stuff is almost as soft and flexible.
{It wouldn't let me post a link but if you search for "woven wire wrap" it's the one that is split so you don't have to put everything through the wrap.
I find the spiral wrap kind of a PITA, too stiff, but YMMV.
Please could you make the DESTINY 2 Titan Paradon Armour :D please