Building the Gold Bump-Sluice Shaker Table
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2023
- This video shows the construction of the shaker table in great detail, covering the cutting of the grooves, the electronics, the motor and much more.
There is a SketchUp drawing of the table here:
drive.google.com/file/d/1FG8q...
The best free version of SketchUp for viewing and modifying the drawing is SketchUp 8, which you can easily find on the web.
Keywords: Gold Extraction, Gold Concentration, Gold Prospecting, Gold Shaker Table, Linear Motor, PWM Motor Control, H-bridge PWM Switch.
By far the most well engineered and designed shaker table on the internet!
Thanks so much!
I’ve learned a lot from your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share the knowledge you’ve accumulated.
Thank you for all of the time that you have put into this project and for sharing freely with the community 👏🏆
My pleasure!
Made a Miller Table a few years back and found that the open cell foam used to keep debris out of gutters makes a perfect water flow 'straightener' for these applications. Water flows through it unimpeded but flows evenly down the table without bubbles.
Yeah, there's a lot of neat stuff out there for these projects
Great Video! Thank you so much for posting your build content!
I am in the planning phase of doing the same thing. Which means YEEEAAAARSSS :)
Thank you for sharing your work so freely. It is truly appreciated.
Thank you for sharing step by step and detailing . I like your design.
I was amazed how you worked out those ending “launch points” on the table saw. That had to be a mind bender. lol. You are the king of craftsmanship, sir. Incredible work! God bless.
Wow, so many improvements over the last table. The motor though expensive is so nice and super quiet. The driver electronics are interesting. I don't know why you needed a micro controller. Very nice method of implementing this off for the groove. Endings Much more feasible than the ramp syste.
I think you used to be rC hobbiest..... The change in flextures material seems to be a big improvement also. The water bar Placement was a good improvement, With the foam, I guess you didn't get to the Feeder trough this time.....
The 4 corner angle adjust is pretty nice as well.
I have used exterior paint for waterproofing. Or one could probably use shellack. Or polyurethane
Thanks for the comment! Yes, I like the location of the water bar and I now have a nice place for the feeder trough.
Amazing. Questions questions question. Great video. Thanks for sharing all the great info.
Great video thanks for sharing!!
Looking Good!
Thanks!
excellent video
Boa tarde professor parabéns hein legal demais hein valeu pelo trabalho
thanks for the vid
Thank you I've been looking for something like this! I want to modify it to catch #1 #2 cons
Hi Andrew. Best of luck with the build. -- Dave
I've wanted to build one of these Tables however I have a different approach in mind for the rubber membrane/mat Grooves.
I believe the way to homemake a rubber grooved mat is to lay the rubber on a flat surface and add on one side a set of slanted shims used to create the walkouts for the Gold.
By cutting the Grooves with a Router the Walkout is created perfectly through the Action of the Router climbing up the gentle slope of the Shims.
This is the only method I can really think of which doesn't include Casting a Mould of some type.
Hi Sean. The grooves in this table were cut directly onto the plywood with a table saw. In one of my previous videos I show how I cut the rubber mat with a router and a template guide. The guide has a gentle slope at the end that helps to create the gold launch region at the end of the groove. I've never found a clean way to route the Neoprene rubber. I have to spend hours with sandpaper removing the torn and hanging chad. -- Dave
I used to build the Bob Beck zapper. It runs on 8 cycles per second. Coming out of an LM741 op. Amp. I also made some that were adjustable frequency. Square wave output. 24 V. That input signal could drive the transistors to provide the variable output to the coil.
Yes, I think it's possible to use a couple of 555 timers to get the job done.
@@orophilia Yeah, the thing with the timers is that you gotta have to know how that's why buy the micro controller if One doeisnt have as much know how., Or if you want to do some very particular tweaking More easily
@@1Search I think I'll make a video on the microcontroller and how to program it to control the linear motor.
@@orophilia The Pico Graham scale you made was impressive.
"@orophilia
5 days ago
@1Search I think I'll make a video on the microcontroller and how to program it to control the linear motor."
@@orophilia this would be so good if you could
Really enjoy your engineering , great looking shaker , would you be willing to share or sell your wiring diagram ?
I will make a video with much more information about the electronics. Thanks! -- Dave
😮
What type of Garolite are you using? G10, G10/FR4, xx? Thanks, your videos are extremely educational
It's Garolite from McMaster-Carr. G10/FR4.
Thanks for the reply. Have you experimented with polyurethane plastics? I am contemplating pouring a sheet of polyurethane with a shore hardness of 60-70 and then using a CNC to cut groves.@@orophilia
@@dennish1037 That sounds wonderful! Let us know if it works. -- Dave
@@orophilia What display are you using for PWM motor controllers - did you get them from Amazon?
If it were me building this masterpiece! At 14:15 , I'd use a router and start at the shallow end. Slowly poundage the router in to about .060" and maybe to about .100" starting at roughly.010". Then sand with up to 400-600 after the epoxy! Although I would have probably added a couple layers of fiberglass, the thin stuff. That looks like tissue paper and possibly bake the wood at 215°F for a couple hours. Drive away any moisture. Then a thin epoxy bath possibly under a vacuum. the vacuum infusion should stabilize the wood for many years sitting in the weather before it even starts to rot! Possibly, 20 depending on UV exposure. With the fiberglass layers it could incorporate Led strips inlaid under the fiberglass along the end of the grooves. The fiberglass being transparent a diffuser layer would be required. A thin layer of silk like cloth or cotton under the fiberglass! A pigment may be used or a gel coat! A white gel coat could help with black sand contrast! Or a pigment added to the epoxy! A wet sand and buff to smooth out the surface , then a 400-600 grit orbital sander to give it a matt finish, and give the gold a little traction so the black can scoot on by! And the collection points I have tiny funnels with about 1/2" outlets to allow a bit of 1/2" hose to be used If desired. Use a bunch of measuring cups / containers for the concentrates. And a gold or panto pre catch the tails close to cons. Before overflow into a large tub to be filtered through a large coarse sand filter divider in the tub with the sand collecting in a smaller tub in the large tub! That will over flow into the larger! The two stacked gold pans used to test the tails for gold lost! Without loosing anything , after testing and dump the pan place it under the other so nothing is stopped or lost!
But the thing is, I gotta find the gold first!! Then get it before even thinking about this Part of the process!! Great video, have a awesome day!!👍
Great comment! Yes, I'd love to do all that and more. I need another lifetime as a prospector. -- Dave
Very nice design. Have you considered offering kit?, at least for the linear drive?
Yeah, but I have a limited time and lots to do. :-)
Let us know when you do.
I am certain a lot of people would be interested.
Really appreciate the fact you freely share your information. you are very inspiring and i would really like to make one of these. is there a way to contact you outside of here?
orophilia.gold@gmail.com
@@orophilia Thanks, email sent regards Geoff
Hi, I have a suggestion that might help you. Instead of electronics why don't you use a massage viberator? It's simple, easy and cheap. I would appreciate your feedback.
Good morning. It might work, but I would not know how to control the frequency and the force applied to the table. -- Dave
By far the best table design that I have seen. I would like to build your design. However, I can't get the drawing to open up for me. Can you help me out? I have downloaded the sketchup 8 but I don't know where it fouled up.
Good morning. Does Sketchup 8 open and run on your machine?
No it opens SketchUp for schools and wants me to pay.
@@orophilia Got it to open. Exploring it today.
@@danholman5282 Ah, that's the problem. You can try this (at your own risk): www.oldversion.com/windows/google-sketchup-8-0-16846
@@Nugget907 👍
Is a shaking miller table feasible , or am I missing something obvious ?
EDIT : NVM - I just scanning thru your very first tape and there is mention of one.
Have you continued with that project or has it been abandoned ?
I'll probably find the answer in some other tape.
Hi GST. Yes, a shaking Miller table is quite feasible. I've done some experiments and I plan to continue them. -- Dave
Have you seen flour gold wizards he definitely is passionate about flour gold he's rugged but knowledgeable inventing a flat flow sluice head
Yeah, cool stuff. I like Jason. -- Dave
Need one
There appears to be some design/part changes related to the electronics box in this video compared to the more recent video "Linear Motor and Electronics for Bump Shaker Table" and the "Gold Bump Shaker Microprocessor Board" video. Different components, etc. Is this the case?
Hi Dennis, Yes, I'm now using the Lilygo T-display S3 as the combination of microprocessor and display for both the linear motor and the PWM controllers.
I’m not familiar with sketchup at all. I can’t seem to be able to pull up a part list. Is there a way to do that?
Sorry, there's no parts list. Just the 3D drawing. -- Dave
I'm in South Africa can I send my superfine gold to you
Hi it’s me again. I’m building this and as you can tell this is way above my level of intellect so bare with me. as I go I’m running into little things that I’m confused on.
In this video you specified a 150w 10-32v to 12-35V 6A step up Boost Converter. In the electronics follow up video you specified a 250w 10-40v to 10-50v 6A. One has heat sink one doesn’t. Is there a reason why you recommended the white one over the red with heat sinks? Also you mentioned that there’re (3) 2pin female plugs on the side of the box. 2 for the motor coil, and 1 for the pump. Why is the motor coil taking 2 outlets- wouldn’t (1 )2pin plug be enough to complete the circuit?
And a dumb question :
By using the mcu -are you are able to control the speed/ force of movement to one side?
Say it moves to the right and then abruptly changes direction to the left. The gold continues forward with inertia - in theory wouldn’t quick\sudden change of direction eliminate the use of a bump plate or is that not enough strength?
The electronic modules from China come and go on Amazon. I noticed that the original boost converter that I used was no longer available, so I recommended another one. You can use any boost converter that can supply at least 24V and 3 amps.
I use three female 2-pin connectors on the controller. One is for the motor, one is for the pump and the other is a spare. You will need two connectors.
Yes, I'm working on a controller that does just that. It can be varied from all to the left to all to the right. I tried the shaker table without the mechanical bump. It doesn't work.
The 3rd is a spare!…of course that makes sense!! You probably said it too.
I was seriously in deep thought trying to figure out why there was 3rd I spent hours looking up how to wire all these things and how to work the mcu
I’m still left where I started. Looking at the electronics
Thank you very much for the reply.
@@nativeflight7079 Sorry for the confusion.
what programe did you use for the files
I use a very old version of SketchUp. It is version 8 and it's available for free on the web. Just look for it. -- Dave
Question, did you try higher frequencys that are higher?
400hz? 1000hz?, 4khz?
According to building engineers who built buildings for high earthquake areas
There is something called liquification Factor we're small solid grains start behaving like liquid
At very high vibration frequencies
And if a solid will behave like liquid
Then weight separation would happen a lot better
thanks for sharing
This is an interesting subject. Yes, liquefaction is an important part of gravity separation. It's accomplished in this machine by the combination of the turbulent water flow in the grooves and the impact liquefaction from the bump. Both are needed in a water sluice. I drive the table at about 6 Hz, which is as high as I can go given the weight of the table and the amplitude of the motion that I need.
@@orophilia Just thinking out loud here , like Donald Trump and his Covid Bleach thought , Could you superimpose say a 1 kHz on top of your 6 Hz ?
@@goldsluicetinkerer I could attach a vibrating motor, but I've got that idea saved for something else.
@@orophiliaYes, 360 is definitely pushing the limits.
When will you sell them?
Hi Mike, Sorry I don't sell the tables. -- Dave
Hey how much would you billy one of them for
I'm sorry, I don't manufacture anything.
Are you selling like that ???
Sorry, Sam, but I don't make anything for sale. -- Dave
3D printing is cool. A lot of people are printing these days.
Yeah, I 3D print a lot of stuff for other projects. It's amazing. The cost of printing large parts is very high, so I don't know if the technology is ready for a shaker table. -- Dave
On your last video you said your micro processor wasnt necessary. It all seems quite straightforward, but you loose me at the chip.
Yes, I think that a couple of 555 timers and a logic gate or two could be used to drive the H-bridge PWM motor controller. One timer would be used for the frequency and the other timer for the PWM amplitude. Perhaps such a circuit exits on the web. I used the micro because I wanted to try different timing and acceleration profiles, but I found that a simple 50% forward/50% back is the best.
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