Although the info is MOSTLY correct a 70Volt system does not run in series, they run in Parallel. It is also worth noting that 70 Volt to 4 or 8 Ohm transformers ARE available so an existing Low Impedance System could be extended to cover a 70 volt zone.. One must keep in mind that the additional 70Volt load should not exceed the wattage rating of the host amplifier.
I completely agree however I changed over a small area that had a 70 V system to an eight ohm system. The wires were in the walls and they were daisy chained so I just went ahead and hook them up to the 8 ohm system and I couldn’t tell a lot of difference. There wasn’t a lot of distance between the speakers which I’m sure helped. I would’ve liked to pull new wires, but the old system was stapled in the walls and it was an impossibility. The room also had a volume control which seem to work as well as long as I have the volume at the amplifier set fairly high.
hai ,,, i am from Indonesia ,,, I want to know ...if i have speaker high impedance 100volt 60 watt(170ohm) and I want to install for 4 unit ... how much size poweramp I need ?
Regarding sound quality....even though large manufacturers like Yamaha do state that 8 ohm produces "better" sound quality, with modern technologies and Class D amplifiers, you would be hard pressed to be able to tell the difference between an 8 ohm setup vs a 70v setup. Unless you are an "audiophile" in a critical listening room. The acoustics of the room the speakers are in are more of a contributing factor towards sound quality than the equipment itself.
To add to your point, Crown amps that have dual function built in, Lo Z and High Z, when set to High Z, the amp’s built in crossover dumps the low frequencies at 70hz by default, to reduce transformer saturation. Most often this can be compensated for by using one or two 8ohm, low frequency drivers to make up for the missing sub frequencies while implementing the second channel of the same amp, set in LowZ mode, and on Crown amps at least, use the “Y-Cable” settings to make it one input going to both channels. I found out after much head scratching that this does NOT leave BOTH channel level knobs in use. The second channel is always the same as the first. Ugh. Why Crown? Why?! So just buy or make your own Y-cable or just jump a cable across the input binding strip if available. But yes, the amps have come a long ways, and Class D restores so fidelity but seems to compromise long term reliability . If those amps don’t get good fresh relatively cool air, even though not obviously running hot, over a long period of time, maybe a few years, the power supply will at some point give up in its switching circuitry. And that sucks. I’ve got rigs out there which have been on for 15 years and counting with nary a hiccup, but those were older school amps, and also got fresh air. A non-ventilated closet or a rack in a small area with no fans will shorten its life too. On that note, even with fans, a non-breathing closet will just keep circulating the same warmer and warmer air, no good. In most installs, in fact ALL installs, I always mount amps with no gap between, no rack fans, and try to implore the client to actually turn off the rack periodically. I have found that if you don’t dictate a schedule, a schedule will never happen. I’ve recently begun implementing sequencers, always Furman, and that helps. Wire up the little remote switch to where ever it’s easier to use, and you’re golden. Quick tip- always put the remote power switch in the middle of a busy restaurant. Quick tip number two- never assume a new owner or manager has common sense. Ignore tip one. Tip three-always, always, always, get a deposit towards at least 50%, ok let’s just say at least 98% of the equipment up front. Roughly halfway through the install, request a labor “draw” on half of the quoted labor. It’s mind blowing how the biggest entities, with seemingly every resource available, are the hardest to be able to put a “paid” stamp(digital stamp) at the bottom of the final invoice. I’m thinking it’s because of those extensive “resources”, that they delay as long as possible, to the point of potentially losing any subsequent service. Boggles the mind. Money is a helluva drug.
Ive bought a system management amplifier from a company pullout and im left in confusion on how I can overcome a way to connect my speakers directly at home with a 70/50v zone output. Do i need a dedicated circuit to convert a 70v to 8 omhs? Its a TOA vm2240 which is quite expensive at launch but only sold for $6 from a company pullout
Hi, I have a speaker with 2 input ( 60W & 6W @ 100 V ) Is that mean my speaker reduce the sound to 6 watt if I install it with 100V system?? Thanks for your lectures
There should be one negative or “ground” wire on the speaker, and then two more wires, usually of individual colors, which should represent the “tap”being used. This “tap” is industry jargon for the wattage and therefore RELATIVE volume of that speaker. If using a distribute voltage, high impedance system/amp(25/70/100V), you can put, for example, several of the speakers you describe can be connected in parallel on one speaker cable run. A cable run is also industry jargon, referring to one speaker cable, even though they are typically one jacket encapsulating two individual cables with their own respective jackets each. This would be known as a two conductor cable. With your speakers, you can connect one speaker to the 6watt tap, and the other to the 60watt tap, and for one given output volume from the amp, the 6watt tapped speaker will be significantly quieter than the 60watt tapped speaker. In fact so much so that in a modestly loud ambient noise environment, where the 60watt tapped speaker is at a normal volume, the 6 watt tapped speaker in the same environment might be hard to hear at all. But if that one were perhaps in a very quiet environment, such as a bathroom, it would be audible but still very quiet. In fact, I have never known of any high impedance speaker having such a wide range of taps nor only two. It is almost always four different options, and almost always escalating in doubles, i.e. 3.75watts, 7.5watts, 15watts, 30watts. So the answer is, yes, on a 100V High Impedance Amp, for a given output of the amp, one speaker at 6watts will be significantly quieter than the one at 60watt s.
I have 100 v amplifier, can I connect 2 speakers each one 70 v, in the same port in the amplifier (output) or shall I connect only 1 speaker and the second speaker connect to it?
in the event that the input for my speakers is 8 ohm (output from remote speaker module), but my speakers is 70v transformer type, is there any way for me to convert the signal from 8 ohm to 70V?
My local made pa amplifier output volts are 95v @ 8ohms. (450 watt @ 8 ohms) it has no output transformer. The dc supply rail is 95+95. Can i drive 100v line speakers on it? how many speakers i can drive on it?
I'm not an expert but I believe you don't have to lay wire to every single speaker. You can use 4 component wire and use 2 wires for the left channel and 2 wires for right channel and set them up in parallel.
Be very careful to edit this video to reflect parallel wiring. People tend to think of anything in “a row”, or “consecutive” as in “series” but in the world of audio and electrical wiring in general, “series” means one component’s positive connector is wired to the next component’s negative connector, and so on. “Parallel” means all positive to positive, negative to negative. Get it wrong from your intended usage and the results may be less than ideal. You can connect more speakers in series wiring with a LoZ amp, but if one speaker loses continuity, the whole rig is down. That’s why parallel is almost always used, except in special situations where the impedance desired is acquired with series wiring, such as in a guitar or bass cabinet. As you were.
Great video. Short and to the point without a huge sales pitch. Thanks!
Although the info is MOSTLY correct a 70Volt system does not run in series, they run in Parallel.
It is also worth noting that 70 Volt to 4 or 8 Ohm transformers ARE available so an existing Low Impedance System could be extended to cover a 70 volt zone..
One must keep in mind that the additional 70Volt load should not exceed the wattage rating of the host amplifier.
You are correct. If they were is series and one speaker broke, it would cause all of the other speakers to stop working.
Yeah, he probably meant to say "daisy chained".
I completely agree however I changed over a small area that had a 70 V system to an eight ohm system. The wires were in the walls and they were daisy chained so I just went ahead and hook them up to the 8 ohm system and I couldn’t tell a lot of difference. There wasn’t a lot of distance between the speakers which I’m sure helped. I would’ve liked to pull new wires, but the old system was stapled in the walls and it was an impossibility. The room also had a volume control which seem to work as well as long as I have the volume at the amplifier set fairly high.
hai ,,, i am from Indonesia ,,, I want to know ...if i have speaker high impedance 100volt 60 watt(170ohm) and I want to install for 4 unit ... how much size poweramp I need ?
Regarding sound quality....even though large manufacturers like Yamaha do state that 8 ohm produces "better" sound quality, with modern technologies and Class D amplifiers, you would be hard pressed to be able to tell the difference between an 8 ohm setup vs a 70v setup. Unless you are an "audiophile" in a critical listening room. The acoustics of the room the speakers are in are more of a contributing factor towards sound quality than the equipment itself.
To add to your point, Crown amps that have dual function built in, Lo Z and High Z, when set to High Z, the amp’s built in crossover dumps the low frequencies at 70hz by default, to reduce transformer saturation. Most often this can be compensated for by using one or two 8ohm, low frequency drivers to make up for the missing sub frequencies while implementing the second channel of the same amp, set in LowZ mode, and on Crown amps at least, use the “Y-Cable” settings to make it one input going to both channels. I found out after much head scratching that this does NOT leave BOTH channel level knobs in use. The second channel is always the same as the first. Ugh. Why Crown? Why?! So just buy or make your own Y-cable or just jump a cable across the input binding strip if available. But yes, the amps have come a long ways, and Class D restores so fidelity but seems to compromise long term reliability . If those amps don’t get good fresh relatively cool air, even though not obviously running hot, over a long period of time, maybe a few years, the power supply will at some point give up in its switching circuitry. And that sucks. I’ve got rigs out there which have been on for 15 years and counting with nary a hiccup, but those were older school amps, and also got fresh air. A non-ventilated closet or a rack in a small area with no fans will shorten its life too. On that note, even with fans, a non-breathing closet will just keep circulating the same warmer and warmer air, no good. In most installs, in fact ALL installs, I always mount amps with no gap between, no rack fans, and try to implore the client to actually turn off the rack periodically. I have found that if you don’t dictate a schedule, a schedule will never happen. I’ve recently begun implementing sequencers, always Furman, and that helps. Wire up the little remote switch to where ever it’s easier to use, and you’re golden. Quick tip- always put the remote power switch in the middle of a busy restaurant. Quick tip number two- never assume a new owner or manager has common sense. Ignore tip one. Tip three-always, always, always, get a deposit towards at least 50%, ok let’s just say at least 98% of the equipment up front. Roughly halfway through the install, request a labor “draw” on half of the quoted labor. It’s mind blowing how the biggest entities, with seemingly every resource available, are the hardest to be able to put a “paid” stamp(digital stamp) at the bottom of the final invoice. I’m thinking it’s because of those extensive “resources”, that they delay as long as possible, to the point of potentially losing any subsequent service. Boggles the mind. Money is a helluva drug.
Ive bought a system management amplifier from a company pullout and im left in confusion on how I can overcome a way to connect my speakers directly at home with a 70/50v zone output.
Do i need a dedicated circuit to convert a 70v to 8 omhs?
Its a TOA vm2240 which is quite expensive at launch but only sold for $6 from a company pullout
nice exp
Hi,
I have a speaker with 2 input ( 60W & 6W @ 100 V )
Is that mean my speaker reduce the sound to 6 watt if I install it with 100V system??
Thanks for your lectures
There should be one negative or “ground” wire on the speaker, and then two more wires, usually of individual colors, which should represent the “tap”being used. This “tap” is industry jargon for the wattage and therefore RELATIVE volume of that speaker. If using a distribute voltage, high impedance system/amp(25/70/100V), you can put, for example, several of the speakers you describe can be connected in parallel on one speaker cable run. A cable run is also industry jargon, referring to one speaker cable, even though they are typically one jacket encapsulating two individual cables with their own respective jackets each. This would be known as a two conductor cable. With your speakers, you can connect one speaker to the 6watt tap, and the other to the 60watt tap, and for one given output volume from the amp, the 6watt tapped speaker will be significantly quieter than the 60watt tapped speaker. In fact so much so that in a modestly loud ambient noise environment, where the 60watt tapped speaker is at a normal volume, the 6 watt tapped speaker in the same environment might be hard to hear at all. But if that one were perhaps in a very quiet environment, such as a bathroom, it would be audible but still very quiet. In fact, I have never known of any high impedance speaker having such a wide range of taps nor only two. It is almost always four different options, and almost always escalating in doubles, i.e. 3.75watts, 7.5watts, 15watts, 30watts. So the answer is, yes, on a 100V High Impedance Amp, for a given output of the amp, one speaker at 6watts will be significantly quieter than the one at 60watt s.
I have 100 v amplifier, can I connect 2 speakers each one 70 v, in the same port in the amplifier (output) or shall I connect only 1 speaker and the second speaker connect to it?
in the event that the input for my speakers is 8 ohm (output from remote speaker module), but my speakers is 70v transformer type, is there any way for me to convert the signal from 8 ohm to 70V?
My local made pa amplifier output volts are 95v @ 8ohms. (450 watt @ 8 ohms)
it has no output transformer.
The dc supply rail is 95+95.
Can i drive 100v line speakers on it?
how many speakers i can drive on it?
Thank you
Excellent!
I'm not an expert but I believe you don't have to lay wire to every single speaker. You can use 4 component wire and use 2 wires for the left channel and 2 wires for right channel and set them up in parallel.
hai
i would like share souns source from one amp to other where first amp is in 160 mtrs far any solution other than fiber
XLR Cable?
You are misleading when saying to connect 70V/100V spears in series. These connect in parallel.
Be very careful to edit this video to reflect parallel wiring. People tend to think of anything in “a row”, or “consecutive” as in “series” but in the world of audio and electrical wiring in general, “series” means one component’s positive connector is wired to the next component’s negative connector, and so on. “Parallel” means all positive to positive, negative to negative. Get it wrong from your intended usage and the results may be less than ideal. You can connect more speakers in series wiring with a LoZ amp, but if one speaker loses continuity, the whole rig is down. That’s why parallel is almost always used, except in special situations where the impedance desired is acquired with series wiring, such as in a guitar or bass cabinet. As you were.
8 ohm, 70 volt and 100 volt
2000 volts 8 ohms
You talk too fast, I watched this video 5 times to understand %80.
Please know that not everyone knows English very well
70 volt speakers in series,,,,,,,??