I think it’s the consensus of everyone here that you did not fail. Your decision to not continue was definitely the right one. So good to see you’re feeling better! Keep up the great videos!
Yeah you are right. Being a dead body on the mountain would be a failure, but also I did not succeed. But I am not mad at all, because I learned a lot and already became a better mountaineer than I was going into the expedition.
The summit is not the finish, it's actually half way! You absolutely made the right call, and I admire you for that. And congrats on the Lhotse summit!
Thank you buddy! I was afraid of my own courage, but I am happy that I was able to turn around. I can tell you I had a lot of fear, that I would not be able to do that and I was really afraid of death the days and weeks before.
You didn’t “fail” at anything and reaching the peak of Lhotse without supplemental o2 is incredibly impressive (!) & hopefully you’ll reach the summit of Everest next time 🙂. Wishing you the best of luck & that you stay safe!
Congrats man... Glad that you were aware of your limits and did not let adrenaline dictate over you. You are alive and soon you will be ready for the next attempt. Respect ❤
Yes he did, he failed. He had a goal and fell short, that’s a big FAIL! Get back to reality and stop the madness of the weak woke mindset. There are winners and losers in this life.
One of the greatst decision you've made even in from little behind.. If you would push yourself little more maybe it would end so tragic. So its not failure its reallu really great and sensible decision..❤ love it and love you..
Richard from NZ. You're a really great likable guy who isn't ego driven and you're very grounded and you'll climb Everest on your next trip there due to your learnings and increased wisdom at these very high attitudes. All good passionate people in mountaineering don't succeed many times until they finally do.....can't wait to see... I enjoy all your videos
Thank you so much for your comment and your nice words Richard! I cant wait to visit NZ one day and climb Mount Cook / Aoraki! Being able to control my Ego, was one of my most important and biggest lessons I had to learn as a young solo mountaineer in my 20s. I was a completely relentless climber when I was younger and it almost got me killed one day, when I got captured by a fierce storm on the summit of Mont Blanc and I had to dig myself into the snow just below the summit to survive until the next day. It was a long and hard learning journey, but it made me become the climber I am today. Happy to hear, that you enjoy the videos! I will continue to take you guys with me!
I live at sea level, so I can't handle 5ooo ft. You were so wise to listen to your body . Now you will know how to handle the next time. Stay positive it will happen ❤
Haha, yeah it takes a while to adapt from sea level but every human body can do it. I learned a lot from this expedition, which will help me to adjust and become better for the next big mountain! Greetings!
Doing a debriefing of the situation for future planning is why you will maximize chances of achieving what you want to achieve in the future. In my opinion you already have made quite impressive achievements. I am so impressed with your ability to make excellent and life saving decisions in a situation where very few people are able to do that. For that alone you get my deep respect. But also for all the discipline and impressive climbing so far. I am looking forward to seeing more of your adventures. I hope lots of newbie climbers find your channel, it could actually save their lives to take on the realism and care and respect of life you demonstrate.
Hey, thank you so much for you comment and your kind words! If we dont reflect on what happened and if we are not able to see our mistakes, we will never be able to progress and become better at what we do and also we wont be able to develop as human beings. I love this about life in general, but thats also what makes the journey of a mountaineer so beautiful, rich and fulfilling. I think everyone can "almost" achieve anything, if they are not severely handicapped and if they are very passionate about it and are willing to put all the necessary hard work into it. It takes mostly discipline and a desire by heart to reach almsot anything in life. Thanks to comments like yours I will keep on sharing my story and continue to take you all with me! And you are absolutely right, hopefully more climbers understand, that it is ok to turn around and avoid death. Mountaineering is esepcially dangerous for young climbers in their 20s.
@@norrdinenouar That last sentence is especially eye-opening and mature. Obviously, climbers in their 20s seem to be the most capable, physically. But you just illustrated how much the mental aspect, maturity and experience is just as important, if not more. Bravo Sir. You will get there someday, and live to tell about it! I will be cheering for you!
I loved your Everest, Annapurna I, & Lhotse adventures. Not having your exact equipment to rely on was a problem, (like when someone wore your crampons, & left their own). Those things can add up in your mind too. Of course, there is no way to control what germs, you are exposed to, that will always be a variable. Your sound thinking, probably saved your life. Reflecting back on what you could have done better & smarter is very wise. Your new ideas on approaching mountaineering, sounds like a winning plan. I love the pictures of Spain too. God bless, keep up the good work.
Yeah wanrapea, there were many little things adding up on Everest this time. There is a lot I can learn and improve from this climb, so I am glad I had this very important lesson in my life. Lets see if I am able to setup a small expedition next year in Pakistan! :D I will upload a little bit of footage of Spain for you aswell! I am thinking.... the best Ice Cream of Andalusia would be a nice video :P
Hey @mielmonteir8495! Thank you so much for your kind words and your contribution! I still cant stop thinking and dreaming about Everest, but I have to give it some time :D I hope I will be able to climb a few 8000ers in Pakistan next year or at least one of the Seven Summits :D we will see!
@@norrdinenouar I am for sure you will reach the highest peak! Continue your effort and nothing will be to much! Please keep us updated with all the progression! Ill be watching🙏
Wohooo, you summited Annapurna without O2? that is even greater achievement than the everest...after nanga parbat its the second deadliest mountain, big congrats!
Being alive isn't a failure, shows great decision making and maturity. I'm sure you will summit next time from your learnings. Love your videos. All the best
watching your channel from quite some time and learned a lot from you and you absolutely nailed it with pitch perfect decision its better to live to try next n next n next. Congrats on Lhotse summit big bro
I have been watching a lot of your content out of interest. I am not a mountaineer...but I have to applaud you for the very wise decision not to not to confront the Mt. in your weakened state and face the tragic consequences. Kudos... We love what you are doing
Hey, happy to hear that you enjoy the content! It motivates me and keeps me hyped to upload more of my journey to you! Well you can not always succeed and you have to respect either the mountain or the signs of your body. This is just how mountaineering is and it is a beautiful way to learn and to develop!
I did watch this video with great interest. You do share some interesting experiences and thoughts. The way I see this is that you should consider your Everest expedition a success. The experience and knowledge you brought with you down again will most probably be of great and perhaps decisive importance in the future. And for us who follow you here on TH-cam, it's cooler that you came down safe, instead of staying for good on Everest.
Hey Rinohals, you are absolutely right, the things you learn from these expeditions or "mistakes" are soo important and can be considered a "success" but yet, I still did not reach the summit, but its just a matter of time and hard work. To be honest with you it is probably quite important, that I did not succeed to climb Everest and had to turn around. If you have to much "success" in a row, I could run the risk of becoming fearless or overconfident. I think this lesson just happened at the right time and I needed this for my future climbs. So many good mountaineers, that are 100 times better than me died, because they were too "successful". Ueli Steck, David Lama, Jerzy Kukucka and many more... They thought they were invincible because of all the success they had.
A great summary of what you need to change in order to have a better chance of success in the future. You have learnt a lot and as I was always told when I was younger you learn by your mistakes. That must have been a big disappointment that they didn't bring your tent. It sounds as though it was a culmination of factors that resulted in your not being able to summit. I read the book The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt about the successful 1953 Everest Expedition and in those days there was no airport at Lukla and they had a much longer walk to Base Camp. Looking forward to your future adventures. Take care.
Hey, thank you for your comment! Yes usually its a combination of factors and not just a single reason. This is how life works but especially this is the way of a mountaineer, we try, we fail, we learn, we adapt and ultimately become better as a mountaineer and as human beings! What the pioneers of 1953 did is unimaginable. The logistics and everything was so much harder. Just think about their gear and limited knowledge about the body, acclimatization or weather data we have today. Even though they climbed with Oxygen it was incredibly hard. The frist time I went to Lukla last year I arrived via Jeep further down in the valley and walked to Lukla.
I admire anybody who does try to climb without o2 because thats true mountain climbing but when your up that high it's better to listen to what your body is telling you. Hopefully you will have another chance. Always better to be safe.😮😊
Thank you so much! It is incredibly hard but so much more rewarding and my philosophy how a mountain should be climbed. It is the only way to truly experience the mountain and suffer to reach the summit. I will definately have another chance one day!
True mountain climbing? Do you realize that Sir Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore oxygen on the very first ascent of Mt Everest? Does that make the mountain any less climbed or any less real? I understand when a true purist says that, but for anyone who doesn’t climb to say something like that is not only disrespectful but shows a complete lack of awareness of what high altitudes do to the body. Sure, anybody can read a book and learn about the death zone and its drawbacks, but until you’ve experienced the burning pain and pressure of altitude it’s just not credible for a person who doesn’t climb to make that kind of statement. I had a hard time I climb a 14er, but learned how to do it and I don’t think of myself as anything less because of that. Learning the way I did allowed me to successfully do Denali and Aconcagua without any breathing aides but it had needed to do so I would have, and I wouldn’t have cared what some so called purist thought.
Much more of a climb, from the North Side of Everest! I heard this past climbing season, ( this year 2024 ) was perfect! Hardly, any teams, climbers had that side, of the mountain, all to them selves!
Willem! I never forget our time in Montenegro! Until today I am still convinced and tell the story many times that we drank the best coffee of my life there!. Thank you for your nice comment and your kind words! Maybe we will sea each other one day again!
Thank you so much buddy! Was a hard decision but I am not mad at all since I learned a lot! You are absolutely right sir, more people need learn this skill!
Watched this video closely and agree no mistakes were made and urge you and everyone to avoid the “failure to summit” concept as the better you become at extreme high altitude climbing the more times you will retreat - I ended up being long lined rescued off C3 in Ama Ama Dablam after summitting (not that it matters) but like you had just completed a perfect preparation climb - being fast and strong - and agree that “you never get better” at extreme high altitude. Bottomline, everyone has bad days and they happen to even the best climbers - lots of tiny little things that together make problems.
Thank you for your comment! Yeah, failure would be to die up there. But ultimately I did not succeed in summiting but I learned a lot and I am very thankful for this super important lesson. Wow, getting Long lined from Ama Dablam sounds scary. Glad to hear, that they were able to rescue you. Did you get sick because of the altitude?
I am a new climber with peaks under 3k , I m looking for more challenging mountains but I m really a noob about gear. Can you do a video about choosing good boots for example?
Hey, there is already one video on my channel: th-cam.com/video/6hKgv0DWzm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pwnUyWaifIsHVJ4f I will take a look into it and make a video about gear for sub 3k mountains
Look in to organic spirulina as a protein powder, it's super high in vitamins and minerals also. Gram for gram, it will blow whey protein away for nutritional value. Admittedly it does not taste great, the best stuff comes from Taiwan. Looking forward to seeing your future content and I think everyone appreciates how diligent you are responding to the comments on your videos👍😀
Thank you Carl, I heard of spirulina but didnt know there is Protein Powder. Ill give it a try and see what I can add to make it more tasty! I think I am able to upload the next video tomorrow :D . I will try to keep up with the comments as good as I can :D
@@norrdinenouar The organic Taiwanese spirulina I use contains 67g of protein per 100g. Whey protein is around 75-80g per 100g but lacks all the other good stuff spirulina contains. So I think it's totally viable as an effective food supplement for mountain endeavours. Just avoid the cheaper stuff from China as there may be heavy metal contamination in the product.
@@norrdinenouar your content is very well thought out and educational. I'm just a beginner climbing mountains in the USA mainly. I am dreaming of expeditions in Nepal. Stay safe and keep up the amazing work.
Amazing to get an insight at these insane feats. You really see why one would put themselves to these great risks. Few, if any, places that compare to these otherwordly landscapes. Can only imagine what it's like standing on top of one of these massive peaks. And you must be crazy fit to lug up all this equipment up the mountain?! How fast do you run 10k?
Yeah, it is quite insane up there and almost impossible for us humans to survive at these altitudes. These are some of the most hostile places on earth yet so beautiful. I would say my fitness level is quite good, but you lose a lot of muscle and stamina when you go on an expedition like that, so you have to do a lot of rebuilding. My current PB for 10k is 44minutes. 42k is 3h20min. I am trying to get faster though :D. Spending a lot of time in the mountains helps too! Another underestimated factor is your mental strength. It is probably even more important than your phyiscal strength.
@@norrdinenouar All very impressive! Documenting with video takes a lot of effort in and of itself. Doing it while climbing the highest peaks on earth without oxygen is crazy. It's much appreciated though. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing your evaluation of the summit attempt. Do you now know how long to stay at each elevation to optimize red blood cells along with muscle and fat? That would seem to be very challenging. Additionally, what guides are you required to use when in Nepal? Are you able to trek and climb on your own?
Hey buddy, it is pretty situational and very individual how every body and composition adapts to high altitude. There is still so much we dont know, but for researchers it is hard to find money to do more necessary research in the field. There are a lot of treks and mountains in Nepal where you dont need a guide at all. For example around Everest or Annapurna you dont need a guide. But if you go to Mustang for example a guide is mandatory. You can still climb any mountain alone by yourself.
Totally agree, Alpine style is the only way to go. But how does one avoid the crowds on Everest when 100's of people are there to climb it with a weather window of just a couple weeks?
Yeah, but most people dont want all the effort, they want just the summit picture as fast and as easy as possible thats it. To be able to climb Alpine style is a long journey and requires so much knowledge, skills and experience. It takes years to learn the necessary skills. About avoing crowds on Everest. I am dreaming about climbing the Hornbein Couloir one day in Alpine Style. Check out how Thomas Hornbein climbed it back then in 1963, absolute legend!
It takes more guts, and intelligence, to turn around on a summit bid. You didn't make the wrong decision, or the right decision, you made the only decision.
Thank you! More people should learn how to listen to their body and act accordingly. A lot of people dont do that in their everyday life, even though our body has a clear message for us and sends us all the signs we need.
It was a NoName Tent, which only weighed about 2kg. I will need a more professional lightweight tent for the future. I have a Vaude and a Salewa tent, but they are not specificly made for high altitude. In my Annapurna videos you can see the lightweight tent I used in more detail. It was from Red Fox I think
Julbo Shield 2-4. And usually on summit day Jolbo Aerospace 0-4 but I lost them on the way to the summit of Annapurna. The wind took them into the abyss.
Do you think that to climb sans o2 is for everyone - if one prepares and gets fit enough and acclimatises enough they can also go without o2? Or do you think it is part of your genetic make up.
Hey, thank you for your question! My answer to this may be controversial to some people. It is already scientifically proven, that Sherpas have a special genetic combination, that helps them to perform hard tasks at high altitude. But genetics do not play a role at all for the rest of us. Reinhold Messner, Jerzy Kukuczka, other non oxygen climbers or myself dont have any special genetics that enable us to climb these mountains. It is all preperation, training, strategy and hard work. The most important factor is the amount of time you spend at high altitude and how much time you give your body to adapt. But also how often you are at high altitude and how used your body is to adapting to high altitude. By the way there is no correlation between physical fitness and the ability to acclimatize. Some studies even indicate, that overweight people seem to acclimatize easier than Marathon runners for example. I personally think the one and best strategy to acclimatize very well and climb 8000ers wihtout oxygen is Time, give your body enough time to adapt and do proper rotations to high camps and then go down again.
Two weeks at Camp 2 was DEFINITELY too much. Most folks don’t realize that it’s the height that matters but height in combination with increased red blood cells when descending to lower altitude. That’s part of the reason people don’t stay at high elevation AFTER they summit. You’ve given your body enough of a jolt to get up high, but not to stay. Obviously getting sick is the big one, but your acclimatization was done properly. I’m curious…you don’t have much 8000m experience. Why would you jump right in to attempting these climbs without oxygen? I mean, to each his own, but who knows…with oxygen you might have been able to make it. Either way, based on all these expeditions and the surroundings you make this video in, you’re wealthy enough to do it again next year. And as you noted, nutrition Is a HUGE PART. The average climber loses between 10-15lbs during their time on the mountain. You’re not a very big guy, so losing 15lbs might not be something you can do healthily.
Hey Mike, yeah it was to much time up there especially considering that I moved to Everest after I summited Annapurna I successfully solo without oxygen in the days before. The cold then was to much and I made the mistake to not climb down to regenerate. But well we make mistakes to learn from them. I also thought my body could handle it quite well, because when I summited Lhotse last year solo without oxygen I also spent a lot of time in C2, C3 and C4. But this time it simply did not work out due to a combination of factors. But I will try again and be stronger next time! Btw I am not wealthy at all. I have to work hard to be able to finance these expeditions and now I have to go back to work since I am broke after 2 years of travelling and 3, 8000er expeditions. Greetings!
@@norrdinenouar well, the best thing to see in your video was that you were able to take the experiences you had, both positive and negative, and turn them in to future learning opportunities. When you’re going over 7000m, let alone 8000m, the more you know about your body the better. I’m curious…doing it solo, did you just make guesses on the weather? Now days, these expeditions use such sophisticated weather tracking models, and yet even THEY get it wrong. So, were you tracking weather or did you just send it, hoping it would work? Also, since you were solo (which i TOTALLY admire, and is how i do all my trips) did you get any pushback from people anywhere, either on the trail or in camps? Did you use the fixed lines or did you forgo them and just pass people? So many questions for you😉 You did such an amazing job with your videos, and your experience is much closer to how I do things…solo. Cheers man.
Thank you for your question. It is not an easy one and very subjective and situational. I think as you can see by my style, that it is possible to minimize the risk of what you are doing, be making good and conservative decisions. But climbing mountains is dangerous and death is the possibility. But is a possibility everyhwere in life. I could die, any day driving to work or getting cancer living a life I do not enjoy. And as you saw I am not willing to die for my goals, but I am ready to go all out and take risks to reach my goals. But we are all free to decide how we want to live our life.
All nice and very bold to aim for solo climbs but please be careful how you plan out your expedition to the nearest detail and eventuality. Not like what David Sharp did and what happened to him. So sad he became his own victim with no help from others who walked past him. Granted at that height rescue is not easy.
You are absolutely right and the death of David Sharp was a tragedy. If you need to be rescued up there you already made a significant mistake and should have turned around before. I will do my best to be as careful as possible! :D
Everest has become a joke. I do not respect the chaos it has become. There is no authenticity and heart in the mountain anymore. I like what you’re describing with the smaller expeditions alpine style.
Do you really think it’s okay to show someone’s body in your Video? At least put a trigger warning before you show it, I really didn’t want to see that.
What I notice is all the TRASH. IF you have however many thousands of dollars to have Sherpas do most of the hard and dangerous things. U should at least be required to bring all your trash and sh!t back with you. Climbing Mt Everest looks more like standing in line at a Walmart than climbing a mountain. At least the Sherpas get ur money 🤑.
I think u'd be disappointed. Have you seen the lines! A mile long line of just people. Waiting to take a selfie 😢 The Sherpas do all the real work. And for pennies 😢
I think it’s the consensus of everyone here that you did not fail. Your decision to not continue was definitely the right one. So good to see you’re feeling better! Keep up the great videos!
Yeah you are right. Being a dead body on the mountain would be a failure, but also I did not succeed. But I am not mad at all, because I learned a lot and already became a better mountaineer than I was going into the expedition.
The summit is not the finish, it's actually half way! You absolutely made the right call, and I admire you for that. And congrats on the Lhotse summit!
That's not a fail, it's a learning. You had sharp judgment instead of Gipfelrausch. Bravo to you
It’s a fail, stop the ridiculous everyone gets a blue ribbon crap, he FAILED that’s reality son, now he gets to try again.
Thank you buddy! I was afraid of my own courage, but I am happy that I was able to turn around. I can tell you I had a lot of fear, that I would not be able to do that and I was really afraid of death the days and weeks before.
You didn’t “fail” at anything and reaching the peak of Lhotse without supplemental o2 is incredibly impressive (!) & hopefully you’ll reach the summit of Everest next time 🙂.
Wishing you the best of luck & that you stay safe!
Congrats man... Glad that you were aware of your limits and did not let adrenaline dictate over you. You are alive and soon you will be ready for the next attempt. Respect ❤
Thank you Hernan! It was a tought decision but I am not sad at all! I will train like a beast to be stronger in the future!
Better to be alive for the next try. all the best!!
Exactly! I will be stronger than ever! Thank you so much buddy!
You didn't fail after all, you are a wonderful person👍✌️
Thank you for your kind words! Set backs let us grow the most!
For sure🫡
Yes he did, he failed. He had a goal and fell short, that’s a big FAIL! Get back to reality and stop the madness of the weak woke mindset. There are winners and losers in this life.
Definitely not a failure. Really wise to put safety over the summit. Much respect for this!
Thank you for your comment! Yeah you are right it is a learning experience!
One of the greatst decision you've made even in from little behind.. If you would push yourself little more maybe it would end so tragic. So its not failure its reallu really great and sensible decision..❤ love it and love you..
Richard from NZ. You're a really great likable guy who isn't ego driven and you're very grounded and you'll climb Everest on your next trip there due to your learnings and increased wisdom at these very high attitudes. All good passionate people in mountaineering don't succeed many times until they finally do.....can't wait to see...
I enjoy all your videos
Thank you so much for your comment and your nice words Richard! I cant wait to visit NZ one day and climb Mount Cook / Aoraki! Being able to control my Ego, was one of my most important and biggest lessons I had to learn as a young solo mountaineer in my 20s. I was a completely relentless climber when I was younger and it almost got me killed one day, when I got captured by a fierce storm on the summit of Mont Blanc and I had to dig myself into the snow just below the summit to survive until the next day. It was a long and hard learning journey, but it made me become the climber I am today. Happy to hear, that you enjoy the videos! I will continue to take you guys with me!
I live at sea level, so I can't handle 5ooo ft. You were so wise to listen to your body . Now you will know how to handle the next time. Stay positive it will happen ❤
Haha, yeah it takes a while to adapt from sea level but every human body can do it. I learned a lot from this expedition, which will help me to adjust and become better for the next big mountain! Greetings!
Doing a debriefing of the situation for future planning is why you will maximize chances of achieving what you want to achieve in the future. In my opinion you already have made quite impressive achievements. I am so impressed with your ability to make excellent and life saving decisions in a situation where very few people are able to do that. For that alone you get my deep respect. But also for all the discipline and impressive climbing so far. I am looking forward to seeing more of your adventures. I hope lots of newbie climbers find your channel, it could actually save their lives to take on the realism and care and respect of life you demonstrate.
Hey, thank you so much for you comment and your kind words! If we dont reflect on what happened and if we are not able to see our mistakes, we will never be able to progress and become better at what we do and also we wont be able to develop as human beings. I love this about life in general, but thats also what makes the journey of a mountaineer so beautiful, rich and fulfilling. I think everyone can "almost" achieve anything, if they are not severely handicapped and if they are very passionate about it and are willing to put all the necessary hard work into it. It takes mostly discipline and a desire by heart to reach almsot anything in life. Thanks to comments like yours I will keep on sharing my story and continue to take you all with me! And you are absolutely right, hopefully more climbers understand, that it is ok to turn around and avoid death. Mountaineering is esepcially dangerous for young climbers in their 20s.
@@norrdinenouar That last sentence is especially eye-opening and mature. Obviously, climbers in their 20s seem to be the most capable, physically. But you just illustrated how much the mental aspect, maturity and experience is just as important, if not more. Bravo Sir. You will get there someday, and live to tell about it! I will be cheering for you!
I loved your Everest, Annapurna I, & Lhotse adventures. Not having your exact equipment to rely on was a problem, (like when someone wore your crampons, & left their own). Those things can add up in your mind too. Of course, there is no way to control what germs, you are exposed to, that will always be a variable. Your sound thinking, probably saved your life. Reflecting back on what you could have done better & smarter is very wise. Your new ideas on approaching mountaineering, sounds like a winning plan. I love the pictures of Spain too. God bless, keep up the good work.
Yeah wanrapea, there were many little things adding up on Everest this time. There is a lot I can learn and improve from this climb, so I am glad I had this very important lesson in my life. Lets see if I am able to setup a small expedition next year in Pakistan! :D I will upload a little bit of footage of Spain for you aswell! I am thinking.... the best Ice Cream of Andalusia would be a nice video :P
Love your channel man! Amazing footage and peak human performance you show us. Its not much but hope it helps for your next push!
Hey @mielmonteir8495! Thank you so much for your kind words and your contribution! I still cant stop thinking and dreaming about Everest, but I have to give it some time :D I hope I will be able to climb a few 8000ers in Pakistan next year or at least one of the Seven Summits :D we will see!
@@norrdinenouar I am for sure you will reach the highest peak! Continue your effort and nothing will be to much! Please keep us updated with all the progression! Ill be watching🙏
Wohooo, you summited Annapurna without O2? that is even greater achievement than the everest...after nanga parbat its the second deadliest mountain, big congrats!
Being alive isn't a failure, shows great decision making and maturity. I'm sure you will summit next time from your learnings. Love your videos. All the best
Thank you buddy! Yeah I will train like a beast to be successful the next time! Happy to hear that you enjoy the videos!
watching your channel from quite some time and learned a lot from you and you absolutely nailed it with pitch perfect decision its better to live to try next n next n next. Congrats on Lhotse summit big bro
I have been watching a lot of your content out of interest. I am not a mountaineer...but I have to applaud you for the very wise decision not to not to confront the Mt. in your weakened state and face the tragic consequences. Kudos... We love what you are doing
Hey, happy to hear that you enjoy the content! It motivates me and keeps me hyped to upload more of my journey to you! Well you can not always succeed and you have to respect either the mountain or the signs of your body. This is just how mountaineering is and it is a beautiful way to learn and to develop!
I did watch this video with great interest.
You do share some interesting experiences and thoughts.
The way I see this is that you should consider your Everest expedition a success.
The experience and knowledge you brought with you down again will most probably be of great and perhaps decisive importance in the future.
And for us who follow you here on TH-cam, it's cooler that you came down safe, instead of staying for good on Everest.
Hey Rinohals, you are absolutely right, the things you learn from these expeditions or "mistakes" are soo important and can be considered a "success" but yet, I still did not reach the summit, but its just a matter of time and hard work. To be honest with you it is probably quite important, that I did not succeed to climb Everest and had to turn around. If you have to much "success" in a row, I could run the risk of becoming fearless or overconfident. I think this lesson just happened at the right time and I needed this for my future climbs. So many good mountaineers, that are 100 times better than me died, because they were too "successful". Ueli Steck, David Lama, Jerzy Kukucka and many more... They thought they were invincible because of all the success they had.
A great summary of what you need to change in order to have a better chance of success in the future. You have learnt a lot and as I was always told when I was younger you learn by your mistakes. That must have been a big disappointment that they didn't bring your tent. It sounds as though it was a culmination of factors that resulted in your not being able to summit. I read the book The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt about the successful 1953 Everest Expedition and in those days there was no airport at Lukla and they had a much longer walk to Base Camp. Looking forward to your future adventures. Take care.
Hey, thank you for your comment! Yes usually its a combination of factors and not just a single reason. This is how life works but especially this is the way of a mountaineer, we try, we fail, we learn, we adapt and ultimately become better as a mountaineer and as human beings! What the pioneers of 1953 did is unimaginable. The logistics and everything was so much harder. Just think about their gear and limited knowledge about the body, acclimatization or weather data we have today. Even though they climbed with Oxygen it was incredibly hard. The frist time I went to Lukla last year I arrived via Jeep further down in the valley and walked to Lukla.
I admire anybody who does try to climb without o2 because thats true mountain climbing but when your up that high it's better to listen to what your body is telling you. Hopefully you will have another chance. Always better to be safe.😮😊
Thank you so much! It is incredibly hard but so much more rewarding and my philosophy how a mountain should be climbed. It is the only way to truly experience the mountain and suffer to reach the summit. I will definately have another chance one day!
True mountain climbing? Do you realize that Sir Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore oxygen on the very first ascent of Mt Everest? Does that make the mountain any less climbed or any less real? I understand when a true purist says that, but for anyone who doesn’t climb to say something like that is not only disrespectful but shows a complete lack of awareness of what high altitudes do to the body. Sure, anybody can read a book and learn about the death zone and its drawbacks, but until you’ve experienced the burning pain and pressure of altitude it’s just not credible for a person who doesn’t climb to make that kind of statement. I had a hard time I climb a 14er, but learned how to do it and I don’t think of myself as anything less because of that. Learning the way I did allowed me to successfully do Denali and Aconcagua without any breathing aides but it had needed to do so I would have, and I wouldn’t have cared what some so called purist thought.
Much more of a climb, from the North Side of Everest! I heard this past climbing season, ( this year 2024 ) was perfect! Hardly, any teams, climbers had that side, of the mountain, all to them selves!
Yeah exactly! And you are right the weather seemed to be quite good until the mid of June this year.
Norrdine so proud of your lifestyle. 100% true mountaineer with very personal storytelling. ~Willem
Willem! I never forget our time in Montenegro! Until today I am still convinced and tell the story many times that we drank the best coffee of my life there!. Thank you for your nice comment and your kind words! Maybe we will sea each other one day again!
Really enjoyed your videos & I’m glad u made it back. So many people don’t listen to their bodies
Thank you so much buddy! Was a hard decision but I am not mad at all since I learned a lot! You are absolutely right sir, more people need learn this skill!
Very wise man, I respect your decision 100%.
Thank you Scotty!
Learning something new and useful, and having a great experience doing it is not a failure.
Congratulations on your achievements to date. Very inspirational. Looking forward to seeing future vlogs on your mountaineering experiences. Coolio
Thank you Johnbell! I will share my mountaineering journey of the past and future!
Congratulations 👍.... I believe that 💯💪💯🙏 l wish you, next trip you're doing on the top in the worlds... Enjoying good dreaming
Hey Florenco my friend! Thank you so much for your kind words! Wish you the best! Greetings to Tanzania!
Watched this video closely and agree no mistakes were made and urge you and everyone to avoid the “failure to summit” concept as the better you become at extreme high altitude climbing the more times you will retreat - I ended up being long lined rescued off C3 in Ama Ama Dablam after summitting (not that it matters) but like you had just completed a perfect preparation climb - being fast and strong - and agree that “you never get better” at extreme high altitude. Bottomline, everyone has bad days and they happen to even the best climbers - lots of tiny little things that together make problems.
Thank you for your comment! Yeah, failure would be to die up there. But ultimately I did not succeed in summiting but I learned a lot and I am very thankful for this super important lesson. Wow, getting Long lined from Ama Dablam sounds scary. Glad to hear, that they were able to rescue you. Did you get sick because of the altitude?
A bigger mistake is never trying, so good job. I enjoy hearing about your experiences
you are absolutely right! That is what makes our life so rich! Happy to hear, that you enjoy the videos!
I am a new climber with peaks under 3k , I m looking for more challenging mountains but I m really a noob about gear. Can you do a video about choosing good boots for example?
Hey, there is already one video on my channel: th-cam.com/video/6hKgv0DWzm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pwnUyWaifIsHVJ4f I will take a look into it and make a video about gear for sub 3k mountains
Congratulations on your achievements to date. Very inspirational. Looking forward to seeing future vlogs on your mountaineering experiences. Coolio
Look in to organic spirulina as a protein powder, it's super high in vitamins and minerals also. Gram for gram, it will blow whey protein away for nutritional value. Admittedly it does not taste great, the best stuff comes from Taiwan. Looking forward to seeing your future content and I think everyone appreciates how diligent you are responding to the comments on your videos👍😀
Thank you Carl, I heard of spirulina but didnt know there is Protein Powder. Ill give it a try and see what I can add to make it more tasty! I think I am able to upload the next video tomorrow :D . I will try to keep up with the comments as good as I can :D
@@norrdinenouar
The organic Taiwanese spirulina I use contains 67g of protein per 100g. Whey protein is around 75-80g per 100g but lacks all the other good stuff spirulina contains. So I think it's totally viable as an effective food supplement for mountain endeavours. Just avoid the cheaper stuff from China as there may be heavy metal contamination in the product.
Failing? you are here still alive, able to tell your story and fight another day. congratz and good luck next time
Thank you so much for your comment! Yes failing would be if I died there, but still I did not succeed, but I will the next time!
You didn't fail,you just postponed the appointment😂
Greetings from Genoa to a Great Man
Haha, thats for sure! I will stand up there one day! Thank you so much! Greetings back to Genoa, beautiful city
We can hardly wait for the next adventure upward. You look great.
😅 I will have some smaller adventures for you in the near future, but the next very big adventure above 8000meters has to wait a little bit 😉
And your channel is awesome!!
Thank you so much for all the love!
Hard to find this channel when I forgot it
Great video dude.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@norrdinenouar your content is very well thought out and educational. I'm just a beginner climbing mountains in the USA mainly. I am dreaming of expeditions in Nepal. Stay safe and keep up the amazing work.
Amazing to get an insight at these insane feats. You really see why one would put themselves to these great risks. Few, if any, places that compare to these otherwordly landscapes. Can only imagine what it's like standing on top of one of these massive peaks.
And you must be crazy fit to lug up all this equipment up the mountain?! How fast do you run 10k?
Yeah, it is quite insane up there and almost impossible for us humans to survive at these altitudes. These are some of the most hostile places on earth yet so beautiful. I would say my fitness level is quite good, but you lose a lot of muscle and stamina when you go on an expedition like that, so you have to do a lot of rebuilding. My current PB for 10k is 44minutes. 42k is 3h20min. I am trying to get faster though :D. Spending a lot of time in the mountains helps too! Another underestimated factor is your mental strength. It is probably even more important than your phyiscal strength.
@@norrdinenouar All very impressive! Documenting with video takes a lot of effort in and of itself. Doing it while climbing the highest peaks on earth without oxygen is crazy. It's much appreciated though. Thanks for sharing!
Good decision and congrats 🙌
Thank you ✌🏾
Thanks for sharing your evaluation of the summit attempt. Do you now know how long to stay at each elevation to optimize red blood cells along with muscle and fat? That would seem to be very challenging. Additionally, what guides are you required to use when in Nepal? Are you able to trek and climb on your own?
Hey buddy, it is pretty situational and very individual how every body and composition adapts to high altitude. There is still so much we dont know, but for researchers it is hard to find money to do more necessary research in the field. There are a lot of treks and mountains in Nepal where you dont need a guide at all. For example around Everest or Annapurna you dont need a guide. But if you go to Mustang for example a guide is mandatory. You can still climb any mountain alone by yourself.
Which lightweight tent are you using?
Totally agree, Alpine style is the only way to go. But how does one avoid the crowds on Everest when 100's of people are there to climb it with a weather window of just a couple weeks?
Yeah, but most people dont want all the effort, they want just the summit picture as fast and as easy as possible thats it. To be able to climb Alpine style is a long journey and requires so much knowledge, skills and experience. It takes years to learn the necessary skills. About avoing crowds on Everest. I am dreaming about climbing the Hornbein Couloir one day in Alpine Style. Check out how Thomas Hornbein climbed it back then in 1963, absolute legend!
👍you Save your life 👍 Great work my friend 🍀👍
Thank you so much for your comment! Life is beautiful, so I rather turn around!
It takes more guts, and intelligence, to turn around on a summit bid. You didn't make the wrong decision, or the right decision, you made the only decision.
Hi norrdine. Is it possible to climb k2 if you are afraid of heights?
A wise decision my friend. Stay healthy please
i have a idea, bring some big sticks or your own tent, you MAY be able to create temporary bases by yourself if it is legal.
Haha, there you can do almost anything! Thank you for your comment. Next time Ill just make sure my tent is with my equipment :D
Gute Entscheidung wieder umzukehren. Aber es ist überhaupt krass das du es noch versucht hast trotz der Erklältung!
good job !!!
Legend ❤
Thank you so much!
what watch are you wearing?
Garmin Descent Mk II, since I am also a Divemaster :D
@@norrdinenouar sick.
Your smart, you listened to your body !
Thank you! More people should learn how to listen to their body and act accordingly. A lot of people dont do that in their everyday life, even though our body has a clear message for us and sends us all the signs we need.
very nice my friend,
i love you i will
follow in your footsteps
Thank you buddy! As long as you prepare yourself and train hard you can do it if you are careful! But please dont die!
You did not fail but learned and found hundreds of ways not to climb summits.
Which tent u have
It was a NoName Tent, which only weighed about 2kg. I will need a more professional lightweight tent for the future. I have a Vaude and a Salewa tent, but they are not specificly made for high altitude. In my Annapurna videos you can see the lightweight tent I used in more detail. It was from Red Fox I think
what glasses do you use?
Julbo Shield 2-4. And usually on summit day Jolbo Aerospace 0-4 but I lost them on the way to the summit of Annapurna. The wind took them into the abyss.
Do you think that to climb sans o2 is for everyone - if one prepares and gets fit enough and acclimatises enough they can also go without o2? Or do you think it is part of your genetic make up.
Hey, thank you for your question! My answer to this may be controversial to some people. It is already scientifically proven, that Sherpas have a special genetic combination, that helps them to perform hard tasks at high altitude. But genetics do not play a role at all for the rest of us. Reinhold Messner, Jerzy Kukuczka, other non oxygen climbers or myself dont have any special genetics that enable us to climb these mountains. It is all preperation, training, strategy and hard work. The most important factor is the amount of time you spend at high altitude and how much time you give your body to adapt. But also how often you are at high altitude and how used your body is to adapting to high altitude. By the way there is no correlation between physical fitness and the ability to acclimatize. Some studies even indicate, that overweight people seem to acclimatize easier than Marathon runners for example. I personally think the one and best strategy to acclimatize very well and climb 8000ers wihtout oxygen is Time, give your body enough time to adapt and do proper rotations to high camps and then go down again.
You did not fail!!
Thank you Natali! :D
I enjoy watching our videos and I try to understand you through TH-cam translation.
Thank you buddy! Hope the transaction is working:D
No wonder most go to Seashore on Holiday, where Sea Level is best for People....
Going High toward the Sun not good, without SpaceSuit.
Yeah... it is intense up there and we really almost need a Space Suit
Sir Edmund Hillary has always said climbing with out O2 on Everest is insane
It is... especially back then, when there was so little knowledge compared to todays knowledge
Wouldn’t even use the term ‘fail’. You should call it your ‘Everest turnaround’. All you can do is make the correct decision given the circumstances.
❤❤❤BRAVO NORRDINE❤❤❤
ALPINE STYLE THE BEST
BEAST!!!! 🦾
Thank you Bro! ✌🏾
You choose well,the mountain remains there..better to be alive and healthy
Yep, and I will come back stronger than ever. Mountaineering and life is about learning, adapting and developing
Two weeks at Camp 2 was DEFINITELY too much. Most folks don’t realize that it’s the height that matters but height in combination with increased red blood cells when descending to lower altitude. That’s part of the reason people don’t stay at high elevation AFTER they summit. You’ve given your body enough of a jolt to get up high, but not to stay. Obviously getting sick is the big one, but your acclimatization was done properly.
I’m curious…you don’t have much 8000m experience. Why would you jump right in to attempting these climbs without oxygen? I mean, to each his own, but who knows…with oxygen you might have been able to make it.
Either way, based on all these expeditions and the surroundings you make this video in, you’re wealthy enough to do it again next year.
And as you noted, nutrition
Is a HUGE PART. The average climber loses between 10-15lbs during their time on the mountain. You’re not a very big guy, so losing 15lbs might not be something you can do healthily.
Hey Mike, yeah it was to much time up there especially considering that I moved to Everest after I summited Annapurna I successfully solo without oxygen in the days before. The cold then was to much and I made the mistake to not climb down to regenerate. But well we make mistakes to learn from them.
I also thought my body could handle it quite well, because when I summited Lhotse last year solo without oxygen I also spent a lot of time in C2, C3 and C4. But this time it simply did not work out due to a combination of factors. But I will try again and be stronger next time!
Btw I am not wealthy at all. I have to work hard to be able to finance these expeditions and now I have to go back to work since I am broke after 2 years of travelling and 3, 8000er expeditions. Greetings!
@@norrdinenouar well, the best thing to see in your video was that you were able to take the experiences you had, both positive and negative, and turn them in to future learning opportunities. When you’re going over 7000m, let alone 8000m, the more you know about your body the better.
I’m curious…doing it solo, did you just make guesses on the weather? Now days, these expeditions use such sophisticated weather tracking models, and yet even THEY get it wrong. So, were you tracking weather or did you just send it, hoping it would work?
Also, since you were solo (which i TOTALLY admire, and is how i do all my trips) did you get any pushback from people anywhere, either on the trail or in camps? Did you use the fixed lines or did you forgo them and just pass people?
So many questions for you😉 You did such an amazing job with your videos, and your experience is much closer to how I do things…solo. Cheers man.
Every mountain is a risk. The question is not one about risk but about life and death, are you ready to die in pursuit of your goals?
Thank you for your question. It is not an easy one and very subjective and situational. I think as you can see by my style, that it is possible to minimize the risk of what you are doing, be making good and conservative decisions. But climbing mountains is dangerous and death is the possibility. But is a possibility everyhwere in life. I could die, any day driving to work or getting cancer living a life I do not enjoy. And as you saw I am not willing to die for my goals, but I am ready to go all out and take risks to reach my goals. But we are all free to decide how we want to live our life.
All nice and very bold to aim for solo climbs but please be careful how you plan out your expedition to the nearest detail and eventuality. Not like what David Sharp did and what happened to him. So sad he became his own victim with no help from others who walked past him. Granted at that height rescue is not easy.
You are absolutely right and the death of David Sharp was a tragedy. If you need to be rescued up there you already made a significant mistake and should have turned around before. I will do my best to be as careful as possible! :D
You used good judgment to turn around and go down. People die by climbing up when they feel weak, they collapse and put the Rescuers at risk.
You nailed it! People need to learn how to listen to your body and overcome their ego.
Everest has become a joke. I do not respect the chaos it has become. There is no authenticity and heart in the mountain anymore. I like what you’re describing with the smaller expeditions alpine style.
Yeah... it is a huge mess right now and definately going into the wrong direction. I would love to see the sport change for the better.
Do you really think it’s okay to show someone’s body in your Video? At least put a trigger warning before you show it, I really didn’t want to see that.
What I notice is all the TRASH.
IF you have however many thousands of dollars to have Sherpas do most of the hard and dangerous things. U should at least be required to bring all your trash and sh!t back with you. Climbing Mt Everest looks more like standing in line at a Walmart than climbing a mountain. At least the Sherpas get ur money 🤑.
Sounds like you won life🤷🏻♂️ now you can try again instead of beeing another body
Exactly man! Our planet has so many beautiful things to offer! It is a great time to be alive!
Can't be successful every time dude.👍
Yep, and actually we dont get better by succeeding all the time... we develop the most, when we fail
Nope, id need the oxygen. I like breathing.
"iam not rich" lul
Who cares? Why climb it at all? Ego, perhaps?
i wish i can climb Everest without money.
Unfortunately this is not how it works these days... :/
I think u'd be disappointed. Have you seen the lines! A mile long line of just people. Waiting to take a selfie 😢
The Sherpas do all the real work. And for pennies 😢