Very good information. Amazes me some people think they know better than the thousands of engineers employed by the manufacturers. Putting water tanks and other heavy gear on roof racks just makes the vehicle unsafe at any speed. Our 110 Defender is kept well within its towing and payload limits, so we have kept the stock springs, added rear airbags to keep it level when towing and upgraded the shocks. Works well.
@@sinchrotronas early 110, fuel filler at back, also pre 86 as no side repeaters on wings. UK legislation meant they had to have them on 1986 vehicles. It also has a later front panel, as no bonnet lock and no hole below the grille.
Very surprising you have just Re-Posted this , from years ago . Still EXCELLENT Information . Bulk Liquid Storage on the Roof is , indeed , sheer Madness . Maxtrax , an Solar Panel , maybe a Swag and PERHAPS a second spare is it in My opinion . It is astonishing how many people think that the Manufacturers are Dumb and Stupid and know " Nuffin' " . And believe that SALESMEN have far more expertise . And aren't on a Commission............🤣 .
My friends and in-laws think I’m nuts for building out a truck with a payload of 4,750 lbs in order to carry up to 2500 lbs of gear, kit and a pop up Grandby. Sweet spot? Heck ya, you confirmed my opinion that 1/2 loaded will provide the best results and longevity of suspension parts and drivetrain.
14:03 even better: Gas/Petrol canister! Or even better than that and my favorite: Propane tanks. I´ve seen that on US cars and got punished on my concern regarding safety: "Just have nice days with your family and do not care what people say about your propane."
Best recheck the Defender facts, after 98 the roof loading for a Defender is 150kg, but and here is the real consideration, nothing changed in the body from the legal 75kg from before 98, so is it a capability or a legal limit? Well, it's a legislation limit, when the cap came off, LR raised to the new legislation limit. The principals of what you've said is correct the example is poor because of the reasoning above. Here's a question though, I have a 97 vehicle, and it's got a 2006 roof, so the standpoint of the vehicle is 75kg, but the roof is 150kg. So what can I carry? Well, that is 75kg as the vehicle age trumps the roof age. But no one has tested this in a court of law, so is it worth the risk? To complicate the matter, the roof and the rear are separates, so does that mean I can carry 75kg on the vehicel roof and 75 kg on the canopy roof? Again, never tested in court, but yes, as provable that the same design of vehicle can carry 150kg, but I'm not exceeding the roof weight as it's on a separate structure. It is subjective. To clarify, I do not have more than 75kg on the roof. Spot on with the suspension, and I've had people leave me to go for the poeple that will just sell them what they want, whether legal or not. As for the water scenario, it's even worse than you've described, the water action is when the suspension equalises the forces (so the roll stops) there is a delayed second "hit" as the water hits the end of the tank, which that force is enough to move the vehicle further off balance. This is dependant on size and shape of tank, but still it's something you probably don't need. Water should always be down low.
Well I can add further to the Defender roof rack load confusion. You are correct, up until end of 98MY (VIN: WA159806) the maximum roof load limit was 75 kg, but a roof rack was not recommended for off-road use. From beginning of 99MY to end of 01MY (VIN: WA159806 to 1A999999) it was increased to 150 kg on-road, but again a roof rack was not recommended for off-road use. From beginning of 02MY to end of 06MY (VIN: 2A100001 to 6A732614), it was 150 kg on-road but only 30 kg off-road, and from 07MY onwards (VIN: 7A732615) it reverted to 150 kg on-road and not recommended for off-road. How confusing can you make it for the same car?
@@cameronwood1994 Evening! Yep, I know, nothing like good old British engineering to really confuse everyone... I knew at one point they gave "off road" as 30kg, but not sure when without looking it up, but was unaware they recinded that one. Yes, a lot of the time they don't recommend off road with a rack, which is strange, as where are you going to leave the "expedition" roof rack when on expedition. I like my little conundrum of 97 vehicle with 06 roof, it hopefully gets people thinking about the subject more. Like most vehicles, Defenders are often overloaded on the roof if not on axleweights.
I use my Defender for long term holidays (aka kind of overlanding) and empty for a daily use as well. So i have to compromise. I asume that is the case most of the time at most of the people. So i kept it stock…. Because everyone i talked so far said i have to decide which way i want to go. I still want to go both ways :-)
To be honest, stock Land Rovers are really capable, so no need to alter it, the other thing to consider is the vehicle is your home, especially if on a longer trip, so damaging it is not such a good plan. I tend to give the following advice; keep stock as stock parts are more readily available, or stolen off another vehicle. Revert spacered wheelbearings to the old style as no special tools or set up needed, keep spares of filters and at least one oil change with you, have spares of UJ's, wheel bearings, bushes and brake pads etc... with you, anything that will be a "show stopper". I also recently added spare pipe and a flare tool to this too, on the account of seeing one person's struggles to get something working when they lost a bake pipe. Bleed nipples at minimum to lock off a circuit, and of course fluid, 1L as it's a system fill. My vehicle (300tdi 110) which I'm still in the process of building, has stock springs, helpers in the rear, but stock part, both anti roll bars, and gas dampers. All props are stock, in fact the only change to stock is really an auto conversion, which is going in over winter. The only roof loading is a RRT. There is a lot of useable low down space on the 110, so air tank to be placed on the outside of the chassis for onboard air (tyres, cleaning and a radio mast when playing radios) batteries are to be low slung, so will water and water heater be, so everything helps keep the CoG low. Happy to discuss anything like this and how to/where you can put things. 🙂
@@overlandready Thank you very much! I did a mechanic workshop earlier this year at a LR Specialist shop. This was very helpful too to get more into depth
@@porcobene_media Yes, that can be very helpful, basic mechanical knowledge improves off road driving as if you know what you're putting your vehicle through, you can make it easier on it. the principals are the same for everything, so if you understand that, you're a step ahead of some other people. I think the most helpful area are suspension dynamics, so you know what your vehicle will do when encountering a rise or fall, and that also includes slopes, that helps hone the wheel placement skills. It's all somethings that practice makes better, you can only learn so much in a classroom as then everything comes together.Then it's learning where to throttle nad not, how much momentum you need to safely do the obsticle. I personally think the whole lot is fascinating.
I never will understand this overloaden overlanders. Despite the safety things its with the standard engine setup not drivable anymore without being an obstacle for all others (and mentally for myself as well :-). ) So my first topic is to have the Defender as much as possible. Was the same with my van before.
The problem I find is, it’s next to impossible to get an unbiased suspension recommendation. Most shops have a contract/ deal with particular brands and thus recommend stuff that is financially beneficial for them. And not what’s the best set up for you. Same goes with online reviews. Almost impossible to get the best, unbiased recommendation or review. Quite frustrating
this is precisely why overland-workshop is not sponsored or paid for by advertising. We have turned down all requests to advertise on the platform. Unlike 99% of overland advice portals out there. Like Overland Portal for example. Its a platform for the shameless promotion of products.
Why being now so Landy Landy after being converted to JapScrap, and still mumbling away bla bla bla hanna hanna warra warra.... Does "re-placed" posts bring in money again, or nothing new to say or do ???
Thanks for this brilliant explanation. Especially the part about oversprung vehicles, really interesting
Very good information. Amazes me some people think they know better than the thousands of engineers employed by the manufacturers. Putting water tanks and other heavy gear on roof racks just makes the vehicle unsafe at any speed.
Our 110 Defender is kept well within its towing and payload limits, so we have kept the stock springs, added rear airbags to keep it level when towing and upgraded the shocks. Works well.
Apparently there was someone talking about suspension in this video… I only saw a beautiful 110! 😍
Looks more like a ninety, mate :)
@@sinchrotronas Soz mate, but it's a 110 - blame the steep camera angle 😀
it’s on TH-cam- a Freedom Rover 2.0
@@sinchrotronas early 110, fuel filler at back, also pre 86 as no side repeaters on wings. UK legislation meant they had to have them on 1986 vehicles. It also has a later front panel, as no bonnet lock and no hole below the grille.
@@overlandreadyAgree on all, but where and when did the fuel filler move to? My 2014 has it at the same place like on the one here.
Very well said, and excellent accurate info!!! Thanks Andrew.
HI! I saw the news about the why of this new channel and here I am. Best regards from a Venezuelan follower in Panama !!!
Very surprising you have just Re-Posted this , from years ago . Still EXCELLENT Information .
Bulk Liquid Storage on the Roof is , indeed , sheer Madness .
Maxtrax , an Solar Panel , maybe a Swag and PERHAPS a second spare is it in My opinion .
It is astonishing how many people think that the Manufacturers are Dumb and Stupid and know " Nuffin' " .
And believe that SALESMEN have far more expertise . And aren't on a Commission............🤣 .
Thank you for sharing you knowledge, its helpful to all.
The spring absorbs the shock and the damper (as it should be called) dampens the springs movement. 👍
My friends and in-laws think I’m nuts for building out a truck with a payload of 4,750 lbs in order to carry up to 2500 lbs of gear, kit and a pop up Grandby. Sweet spot? Heck ya, you confirmed my opinion that 1/2 loaded will provide the best results and longevity of suspension parts and drivetrain.
Great video -thanks
Welcome to Dubai… I was about to say. When I read the comments that this is a repost. 😊
14:03 even better: Gas/Petrol canister! Or even better than that and my favorite: Propane tanks.
I´ve seen that on US cars and got punished on my concern regarding safety: "Just have nice days with your family and do not care what people say about your propane."
Best recheck the Defender facts, after 98 the roof loading for a Defender is 150kg, but and here is the real consideration, nothing changed in the body from the legal 75kg from before 98, so is it a capability or a legal limit? Well, it's a legislation limit, when the cap came off, LR raised to the new legislation limit.
The principals of what you've said is correct the example is poor because of the reasoning above. Here's a question though, I have a 97 vehicle, and it's got a 2006 roof, so the standpoint of the vehicle is 75kg, but the roof is 150kg. So what can I carry? Well, that is 75kg as the vehicle age trumps the roof age. But no one has tested this in a court of law, so is it worth the risk?
To complicate the matter, the roof and the rear are separates, so does that mean I can carry 75kg on the vehicel roof and 75 kg on the canopy roof? Again, never tested in court, but yes, as provable that the same design of vehicle can carry 150kg, but I'm not exceeding the roof weight as it's on a separate structure. It is subjective.
To clarify, I do not have more than 75kg on the roof.
Spot on with the suspension, and I've had people leave me to go for the poeple that will just sell them what they want, whether legal or not. As for the water scenario, it's even worse than you've described, the water action is when the suspension equalises the forces (so the roll stops) there is a delayed second "hit" as the water hits the end of the tank, which that force is enough to move the vehicle further off balance. This is dependant on size and shape of tank, but still it's something you probably don't need. Water should always be down low.
Well I can add further to the Defender roof rack load confusion. You are correct, up until end of 98MY (VIN: WA159806) the maximum roof load limit was 75 kg, but a roof rack was not recommended for off-road use. From beginning of 99MY to end of 01MY (VIN: WA159806 to 1A999999) it was increased to 150 kg on-road, but again a roof rack was not recommended for off-road use. From beginning of 02MY to end of 06MY (VIN: 2A100001 to 6A732614), it was 150 kg on-road but only 30 kg off-road, and from 07MY onwards (VIN: 7A732615) it reverted to 150 kg on-road and not recommended for off-road. How confusing can you make it for the same car?
@@cameronwood1994 Evening! Yep, I know, nothing like good old British engineering to really confuse everyone... I knew at one point they gave "off road" as 30kg, but not sure when without looking it up, but was unaware they recinded that one. Yes, a lot of the time they don't recommend off road with a rack, which is strange, as where are you going to leave the "expedition" roof rack when on expedition. I like my little conundrum of 97 vehicle with 06 roof, it hopefully gets people thinking about the subject more. Like most vehicles, Defenders are often overloaded on the roof if not on axleweights.
I use my Defender for long term holidays (aka kind of overlanding) and empty for a daily use as well. So i have to compromise. I asume that is the case most of the time at most of the people. So i kept it stock…. Because everyone i talked so far said i have to decide which way i want to go. I still want to go both ways :-)
To be honest, stock Land Rovers are really capable, so no need to alter it, the other thing to consider is the vehicle is your home, especially if on a longer trip, so damaging it is not such a good plan.
I tend to give the following advice; keep stock as stock parts are more readily available, or stolen off another vehicle. Revert spacered wheelbearings to the old style as no special tools or set up needed, keep spares of filters and at least one oil change with you, have spares of UJ's, wheel bearings, bushes and brake pads etc... with you, anything that will be a "show stopper". I also recently added spare pipe and a flare tool to this too, on the account of seeing one person's struggles to get something working when they lost a bake pipe. Bleed nipples at minimum to lock off a circuit, and of course fluid, 1L as it's a system fill.
My vehicle (300tdi 110) which I'm still in the process of building, has stock springs, helpers in the rear, but stock part, both anti roll bars, and gas dampers. All props are stock, in fact the only change to stock is really an auto conversion, which is going in over winter. The only roof loading is a RRT. There is a lot of useable low down space on the 110, so air tank to be placed on the outside of the chassis for onboard air (tyres, cleaning and a radio mast when playing radios) batteries are to be low slung, so will water and water heater be, so everything helps keep the CoG low. Happy to discuss anything like this and how to/where you can put things. 🙂
@@overlandready Thank you very much! I did a mechanic workshop earlier this year at a LR Specialist shop. This was very helpful too to get more into depth
@@porcobene_media Yes, that can be very helpful, basic mechanical knowledge improves off road driving as if you know what you're putting your vehicle through, you can make it easier on it. the principals are the same for everything, so if you understand that, you're a step ahead of some other people. I think the most helpful area are suspension dynamics, so you know what your vehicle will do when encountering a rise or fall, and that also includes slopes, that helps hone the wheel placement skills. It's all somethings that practice makes better, you can only learn so much in a classroom as then everything comes together.Then it's learning where to throttle nad not, how much momentum you need to safely do the obsticle. I personally think the whole lot is fascinating.
@@overlandready 100% agree. It is a hobby that not only needs skills but also all senses. That’s what i love about it.
@@porcobene_media Definitely! 😀
I never will understand this overloaden overlanders. Despite the safety things its with the standard engine setup not drivable anymore without being an obstacle for all others (and mentally for myself as well :-). ) So my first topic is to have the Defender as much as possible. Was the same with my van before.
The problem I find is, it’s next to impossible to get an unbiased suspension recommendation. Most shops have a contract/ deal with particular brands and thus recommend stuff that is financially beneficial for them. And not what’s the best set up for you.
Same goes with online reviews. Almost impossible to get the best, unbiased recommendation or review.
Quite frustrating
this is precisely why overland-workshop is not sponsored or paid for by advertising. We have turned down all requests to advertise on the platform. Unlike 99% of overland advice portals out there. Like Overland Portal for example. Its a platform for the shameless promotion of products.
@ and we certainly appreciate that on our end as viewers. Thanks Andrew
Why being now so Landy Landy after being converted to JapScrap, and still mumbling away bla bla bla hanna hanna warra warra....
Does "re-placed" posts bring in money again, or nothing new to say or do ???
Come on... At least your not looking at yet another Troopy! Lost interest after the Range Rover build tbh but the Defender thumbnail dragged me in. 😅
Jesus Christ man. Then don’t watch! You must be fun to live with.