Haha! This channel is just awesome! You have turned me into a Poulan lover! Boedy, your power saw working is great! Peter Frampton is now a muscled up Bad Ass! Good Stuff!
I port saws for a working environment and the people give me good feed back and I don't do the expensive machine work , know sometimes you do have to machine the cylinder or piston but most of the saws I build run great .i agree with you on this
I like reading y'alls stuff. There is a lot to learn just simply absorbing info and I appreciate you guys chiming in. I just wanna chime in my thoughts...if I had a cylinder in which I could get anything below .035 squish, I doubt if I would go through the hassle of turning the base down. The Echo was a very specific build in which it was very clear that the desired outcome was to beat the 500i. In a normal build, I would aim higher and even when turning the base down, I'd be happy with anything below .030. If I could get that without turning, I wouldn't even consider going down to .020. I'd just leave it be. In the future, my aim will be between .025-.030. I dislike using rtv, so I will still turn so that I can use a base gasket. The only newer saw I've even tried to port was that 7310, and it NEEDED cut...badly. and I think that's what most folks are thinking about. Not .020....simply that .040 and higher is just too much. And that's when in their heads they start thinking about how a person needs to be able to cut the base. Maybe not. But I do know this- Fabz...stop worrying about JCS. That guy is literally manufacturing drama. No one is trying to make him fail or is jealous of any success he may have. He says all that bs to stir up his subs. The more you mention him, the crazier you sound and the more attention he gets. Don't play his game, and eventually he will stop trying to goat you. Now, if you ever see him in person...well that's a different story.
That's awesome brother! Ive got about a dozen of those I think you've motivated me to try my hand at porting one again. I am curious if you did a muffler mod on it I'm assuming you did but you didn't mention it in the video. Back when it was called the 46cc super clean and the 2750 farmhand most of the early 295s had a factory port in the muffler they run way better/cooler and that alone makes a huge difference in their performance. I'm also curious on how you connected the wire to the trigger you showed the end of it down in the handle but how did you connect it at the trigger? But that's awesome man! The only complaint I have is I wish you would have done a before and after comparison in the same piece of wood so we could see exactly how much difference it made in the finds
Break one apart and try it, and the throttle cable will become clear to you. It doesn't hook onto the trigger at all, never did. It is sorta like a bow and arrow. The cable hooks at both ends and the trigger raises up into the cable, thus shortening it and pulling the ends closer to each other. This is how it opens the throttle, and why it feels like mush. It's a bad design, but feels so much better now. Also, the electrical tape around the case "stud" was an amazing upgrade to the saws overall feel. I do have video of the saw before the mods and will be making a head to head video.
Woke up this morning not planning on porting a poulan (I never really port ANYTHING. Deburr, polish, gasket match, and texture intake is all I've ever been willing to do. That being said I think I can rig up an angle measurement system.. I dont have a good way to grind the transfers. If you were ONLY to do a little exhaust and intake work on this saw (even if more modest) how would you do it?
Do it! Break it all down and clean out the cylinder real good with a dry cloth, take your ring and run it up into you cylinder, use the ring to measure how far you will go. Take the ring and slide it up to the bottom of your intake and mark the bottom of the ring on the cylinder with a magic marker. Remove the ring and you now have a guide of where to remove material. Do not remove all of your mark. Leave a little bit. On the exhaust port, there is an insert, remove it. You will see there is a little ledge around the exhaust port. Remove almost all of the top of that ledge, again, leave just a little bit. Rough up the transfers a little with your dremel. You want it and the intake to be like a cats tongue. Muffler mod it anyway you can, gotta get those gasses out. Modify the intake if you can, gotta let it breathe. If needed, drill some holes in the top cover around the carb area. She'll run good. Not as good as it can be, but you'll like it. And if you screw it up, buy another one for $40 and start over.
@@novicelumberjack Whelp. Something something about a rabbit hole and going down it. I copied all of this and took some notes from the video. Now its a matter of courage.
Nope. The setup that was used on this Poulan was actually supposed to be for my ThunderKitten, but it didn't turn out that way. I may order another setup and try to make it work.
Hey Boedy, I have the same saw I just tore completely down and cleaned up. New fuel line, carb clean, you know the typical for an old saw that's been setting. My question is do you know of another clutch cover that will work for this saw? I hate the tool-less adjustment and want to do away with it and go back to bar nuts. I've seen a cheap replacement on ebay but it looks like complete shit honestly. This saw will be on its way to see Tim Bauer at Iowa Performance Saws soon to get ported and piped.
The PP4620 and PP295 are the same saw, so clutch covers will interchange. Hope this may help. If I find what the Craftsman equivalent is I'll let you know, do the same if you find out.
@@novicelumberjack if someone were to send you a 4910 for porting , do you have your own recipe or would you duplicate the thunder kitten, try something new etc..? I got one and am seriously considering having it worked over just for fun. Love the saw, don’t really need it to be meaner but why the Fuk not right?
Hell yea man!!!!!!!Thats what I was thinking it would look like when you made that FB post 😂. I love it. Gotta love it when a plan comes together.
Haha! This channel is just awesome! You have turned me into a Poulan lover! Boedy, your power saw working is great! Peter Frampton is now a muscled up Bad Ass! Good Stuff!
Thank you for your awesome comments! Feels great to be so appreciated. Thank you!
Enjoyed the show! 👍s🆙BigGuy!
Moving quite along with the subs. Good for you man!🤙
Yeah man! The channel got almost 60,000 views last month!
Peter Frampton rocks!
I port saws for a working environment and the people give me good feed back and I don't do the expensive machine work , know sometimes you do have to machine the cylinder or piston but most of the saws I build run great .i agree with you on this
@@fabzacres-blackcat so does using long bars and chains I live in the northeast so we don't need long bars that much
@@fabzacres-blackcat I live in Pennsylvania and my saws have between.025 .030 sqish and they run all day long
@@fabzacres-blackcat I have a 385 XP I bought new in 2002 and ported it new piston and caber rings and it still pulling like a mule 😁
@@fabzacres-blackcat I totally agree with you my 385 is 20 years old and still running strong 😁!!!
I like reading y'alls stuff. There is a lot to learn just simply absorbing info and I appreciate you guys chiming in. I just wanna chime in my thoughts...if I had a cylinder in which I could get anything below .035 squish, I doubt if I would go through the hassle of turning the base down. The Echo was a very specific build in which it was very clear that the desired outcome was to beat the 500i. In a normal build, I would aim higher and even when turning the base down, I'd be happy with anything below .030. If I could get that without turning, I wouldn't even consider going down to .020. I'd just leave it be. In the future, my aim will be between .025-.030. I dislike using rtv, so I will still turn so that I can use a base gasket. The only newer saw I've even tried to port was that 7310, and it NEEDED cut...badly. and I think that's what most folks are thinking about. Not .020....simply that .040 and higher is just too much. And that's when in their heads they start thinking about how a person needs to be able to cut the base. Maybe not. But I do know this- Fabz...stop worrying about JCS. That guy is literally manufacturing drama. No one is trying to make him fail or is jealous of any success he may have. He says all that bs to stir up his subs. The more you mention him, the crazier you sound and the more attention he gets. Don't play his game, and eventually he will stop trying to goat you. Now, if you ever see him in person...well that's a different story.
Good job man she's a runner
That’s a ripper for sure !! May have to send you one of my 295’s.
I'd give you a very special discount 😉
OMG..... What an awsom way to fix an engineering failure! I'm going to dub this the BPS TRIGGER MOD. So F'n awesome!
That's awesome brother! Ive got about a dozen of those I think you've motivated me to try my hand at porting one again. I am curious if you did a muffler mod on it I'm assuming you did but you didn't mention it in the video. Back when it was called the 46cc super clean and the 2750 farmhand most of the early 295s had a factory port in the muffler they run way better/cooler and that alone makes a huge difference in their performance. I'm also curious on how you connected the wire to the trigger you showed the end of it down in the handle but how did you connect it at the trigger? But that's awesome man! The only complaint I have is I wish you would have done a before and after comparison in the same piece of wood so we could see exactly how much difference it made in the finds
Break one apart and try it, and the throttle cable will become clear to you. It doesn't hook onto the trigger at all, never did. It is sorta like a bow and arrow. The cable hooks at both ends and the trigger raises up into the cable, thus shortening it and pulling the ends closer to each other. This is how it opens the throttle, and why it feels like mush. It's a bad design, but feels so much better now. Also, the electrical tape around the case "stud" was an amazing upgrade to the saws overall feel. I do have video of the saw before the mods and will be making a head to head video.
Woke up this morning not planning on porting a poulan (I never really port ANYTHING. Deburr, polish, gasket match, and texture intake is all I've ever been willing to do.
That being said I think I can rig up an angle measurement system..
I dont have a good way to grind the transfers. If you were ONLY to do a little exhaust and intake work on this saw (even if more modest) how would you do it?
Do it! Break it all down and clean out the cylinder real good with a dry cloth, take your ring and run it up into you cylinder, use the ring to measure how far you will go. Take the ring and slide it up to the bottom of your intake and mark the bottom of the ring on the cylinder with a magic marker. Remove the ring and you now have a guide of where to remove material. Do not remove all of your mark. Leave a little bit. On the exhaust port, there is an insert, remove it. You will see there is a little ledge around the exhaust port. Remove almost all of the top of that ledge, again, leave just a little bit. Rough up the transfers a little with your dremel. You want it and the intake to be like a cats tongue. Muffler mod it anyway you can, gotta get those gasses out. Modify the intake if you can, gotta let it breathe. If needed, drill some holes in the top cover around the carb area. She'll run good. Not as good as it can be, but you'll like it. And if you screw it up, buy another one for $40 and start over.
Do not remove ANYTHING from the exhaust floor, bevel the new edges you just made, even if it's just with your fingers and a piece of sand paper.
@@novicelumberjack Whelp. Something something about a rabbit hole and going down it. I copied all of this and took some notes from the video. Now its a matter of courage.
Any pleated style filters available for the 4910 that you know of?
Nope. The setup that was used on this Poulan was actually supposed to be for my ThunderKitten, but it didn't turn out that way. I may order another setup and try to make it work.
Hey Boedy, I have the same saw I just tore completely down and cleaned up. New fuel line, carb clean, you know the typical for an old saw that's been setting. My question is do you know of another clutch cover that will work for this saw? I hate the tool-less adjustment and want to do away with it and go back to bar nuts. I've seen a cheap replacement on ebay but it looks like complete shit honestly. This saw will be on its way to see Tim Bauer at Iowa Performance Saws soon to get ported and piped.
The PP4620 and PP295 are the same saw, so clutch covers will interchange. Hope this may help. If I find what the Craftsman equivalent is I'll let you know, do the same if you find out.
There may be more experienced porters out there, but by god no one gets fired up the novice lumberjack and that’s cool to see..
I'm truly having a blast at this. I've studied two stroke theory for twenty years. It's nice to finally be able to put it to practice.
@@novicelumberjack if someone were to send you a 4910 for porting , do you have your own recipe or would you duplicate the thunder kitten, try something new etc..? I got one and am seriously considering having it worked over just for fun. Love the saw, don’t really need it to be meaner but why the Fuk not right?
👍🇺🇸
The inside of the cylinder looks identical to a stihl 193 top handle cylinder 🤔
Hopefully I'll never be able to confirm this. I really don't like working on top handles!
Holy crap I can't see the saw cause of the glare. Lol
Yeppers! Sunblock is my friend at the beach!