That's what I shoot for! I feel your pain on the 15 minute videos that could be 2 minutes. Part of the reason I started making short fix videos. Sometimes I find myself having to look back on them as well for answers and I don't want to see myself talk for 15 minutes either.
Side note, the 2011 5.3l connector ks different! Make sure you double check that you have the right part! It's still 3 prong but has wider spacing with a different clip mechanism! th-cam.com/video/lUPEIrs3mrU/w-d-xo.html This guy has the correct video for that!
after picking up the right tools, I changed it and the filter in less than 5 minutes. thanks to this video. one thing that happened was the old one was 27mm and the new one was just slightly smaller.
Thanks for a video that gets straight to the point. Perfect camera angle to see the sensor. I really appreciate people like you taking the time to help others. 👍👍👍👍 subbed
great video. i'll reiterate what others are saying about just how much contortion, strain, and hand compression it takes to do this job. i had the most success starting at the braided cable nearer the driver's side and following that down first to the electrical connection and then the sensor for removal. the electrical connection was the biggest obstacle, as mine was installed with the retaining clip at about 7 o'clock, meaning i had to find the perfect angle to somehow get my hand down past the edge of the connector shroud and then around it fully opposite myself, and up under the clip. building on advice from another video, a very small (like 1/8") allen wrench came in very handy. i wrapped electrical tape around the bottom to give myself a little bit more purchase. after A LOT of blindly working the allen key around, the plastic shroud deformed enough it could be slipped over the tab holding it in place. using my phone as an inspection camera helped a lot, too... just don't drop it into the abyss. edit - cheap pick from HF bent into basically a shephard's hook worked well to pull the screen. basically bend it a little bigger than the diameter of the screen so the "bell" you create pops over the top of the screen's housing. this'll keep you from destroying the screen if you want to just clean it. installed the new screen with a similarly cheap grabber tool from said importer of fine chinese hardware. last note: 1-1/16 and 27mm will do the job, but you'll likely find that you wedge the sensor in -- especially the old one you'll have to use a multi-part ratchet setup like in the video to remove. may be worth paying for the specialty tool if you'll be doiing this on more than one job. i had to use a punch to pop the old one out of the 1-1/16 socket.
I've been trying to get that connector off for a couple of hours. My hand is bleeding. I cannot, for the life of me, get the tab pressed in, at the same time as have enough grip on the connector to pull it off. I don't know how you guys are doing it.
I just did this on my 2013 silverado. This is the best vid for this procedure. No I did not remove any hoses. It was a real bitch to do but very doable. Some of the best advice was to lay Moving blankets across the motor and lay on top to reach comfortably. Another piece of advice before you do this is an engine flush and oil change before you do it. I didn't and fresh screen got partially plugged again after the sensor/screen swap
Picked up a 01 suburban for a song and dude told me it had a rear main leak - parked it and when i left again oil was just constantly coming out while the truck was on. Got under it to confirm rear main but a buddy told me the location of the leak was coming from on high when I sent him my video - suggested replacing this. Armed with this video I was able to get the job done - took me a while to find the real oil pressure socket but finally did at Napa the Harbor freight deep well / impact wasn't quite long enough for the older sensor. Thanks again for such a helpful video!
Awesome video and thank you for all the great camera angles to see behind the plastic shield. My experience is you get back in there and unless you have thin hands you will be struggling to fit your hand between the firewall and plastic shield and it's harder than that as there is a wire harness right there too further limiting your space. I finally removed the old one and pulled the screen out using a long bolt to jam it into the filter, awesome. Well then when I put the new filter it fell into the back of the engine, never to be seen again so I used the old filer which was in very good shape anyway. Then when I tried to put the new sensor on it fell behind the engine never to be seen again. Then one of my extensions fell behind the engine never to be seen again, so I put the old broken sensor back on and basically spent 2-3 hours removing and replacing the old parts. LoL. Nothing like waiting an afternoon. This morning it's snowing and I need to go back and see if by some miracle I can locate those parts. In the process the large socket fell back there but it's so big I managed to get it out and even the old sensor fell but I managed to fish that out. Have fun y'all!!!
Yeah, I managed to see the extension with my phone camera this morning and once I knew were it was I used a magnet to fish it out, I can see the new sensor but its behind the wire harness, magnet won't stick to it since its aluminum, my grabber can't open big enough to grab it and the electrical end is facing down so no way to get it without removing the whole manifold. A new one on order, hopefully better luck on the next round.
I had the same issue a 5 minute job turned into a few hours of pain, busted my hand, new sensor broke, lost old sensor, zero degrees out, broke the connector tab. But finally got another one succeeded installing and engine light went off with new one. I would pay to get this changed again 🤣
Unbolt the trans mount at the rear. Lift up the trans by the yoke. That will buy you about 3 inches from the firewall. Its the way i do it and it takes me 15-20 mins.
This might be the answer for me. I don't understand how anyone could get that electrical connector off. I can touch it...but there's no way I can get a grip on it, lift the lock, push in the tab, and wiggle the connector off. My hand is bleeding. I can't get a grip on that thing no matter what I do.
Your channel name says it perfectly! No Nonsense. Thanks for a perfect video on how to fix this. Took me 15 minutes and saved me hundreds of dollars! New subscriber for life!
For parts, I just got out of Autozone and picked up the following for this going off the video here. 1) Oil Press. Sensor = Dorman #926-040 (includes screen filter) 2) Oil Pressure Socket (1/2 Drive) = OEM #25254 3) Duralast 5" Wobble Extension = #52-224 The special socket fits the sensor hex perfectly. I'll update my comment later to confirm everything worked or not. Got a GM engineer friend so I'll see if he can't look up the I&M sheet so we can get a torque spec. Thanks for the video, hoping the ~$37 tool investment (+$55 for the part) saves me from an $800 shop invoice. 😀
Jesus.. I have watched 100 videos today on this exact thing... all 15 minutes at least and they still left me questioning things. I wanna hit them with this video
@@r-luvbham6608 I have been for about 6 months. Just been too lazy to do it. Going to do it this week finally. Remember this is a sensor, the engine doesn't need it to run. Just your oil pressure gauge will not work.
It doesn't do nothing just the anoying biping when oil is 0 i been driving my 03 Avalanche for a year now. Im waiting for the sensor to change it ill make a video named. 03 Avalanche oil pressure sensor replace
Great video, service manual calls for intake off; I've only ever done them the way you do. PLEASE NOTE; there is a filter screen that lives in the hole that often gets clogged; I'd strongly recommend replacing it or throwing it away, if dirty or brittle; avoid future issues. Cheers
Iam surprised no else mentioned to replace the filter sock hidden underneath the oil sender...good catch .when your replacing the sender the filter also should be done.
Great video. I was able to switch mine because of this. Dropped the old one down behind the block. Can't see it but be careful right before it comes loose. Do the last turn by hand. Thanks!
Wish you would have shown the filter also , Cause what's the point if it's plugged up?Your new sensor is not gonna read properly so you have to do it all over again so change it out when you change your sensor. From the woman who's doing this on her truck.
Went to HF and they didn’t have a 1-1/16” like the other videos said to use; they did have a 27 so that’s what I bought. I’m going to tackle this task tomorrow.
No problem. Thanks for commenting. I forgot to mention in the video that there is a small screen that should be pulled out and cleaned or replaced that is beneath the sensor. Just FYI
Good video straight to the point. You forgot to add the filter/strainer that goes under the sensor sometimes they get clogged and give a false reading 5 more minutes of work if that and a $10 parts might as well replace it
Thanks a lot a had a dumb ass mechanic tell me it was my oil pump and once I replaced this sensor for under $50 I saved $1000 your video made my holiday with saving 💰😁
My 2011 silverado 5.3 was having the oil pressure pegged at 80 for a few days then went straight to zero Replaced oil pressure sensor and filter and its fixed just for anyone who might be having the same weird oil pressure problem.
tools used were: 2 2in extention a 1 1/16th deep sock and a regular 1/2 inch rachet wrench the only problem i had was taking the stupid electrical connection off sensor
That's what I'm hoping is the only thing wrong with my 04 I don't have money to fix it if it's more severe. The oil pressure gauge pegs to 80 without the truck even running and when it is running it runs just as smooth as it has normally. No knocks or ticking which is a plus. I don't drive it enough for the oil to be bad. So we'll see when my ordered sensor gets here. Fingers crossed. :)
My 2013 Suburban just pegged at 80 for about 5 seconds then went to 0. Of course this was after an 8 hour trip made the previous day. Hopeful that it's just the sensor! I'd hate to be stuck 8 hours from home.... however it's still running with no noises....
What about the little filter screen just below the pressure sending unit. It is a common problem. It plugs up and causes the oil pressure to run low or no oil pressure. When you're in there it is just a pick to take it out and replace.
I was charged 8,000dollars at a place here in ky and still had no oil pressure, told them to replace the screen and they had no idea what i was talking about. Now i dont have enough money to sue them.. fuckin con artists. Lol
Listen up folks... Here is how to do this job real simply. Get a heavy thick blanket and put it on top of the motor because you are going to lay up there to get at eveything. At 1:01 of the video you will see the plastic baffle, at the rear of the engine, and there is a white spot visible. Take a sabre saw blade and make a vertical cut in the plastic (about 1/2" to the right of the white dot) and cut down toward the bottom, and then cut horizontally to the right. Then throw that piece away. (Presumably this is your own truck!). I did not find any adverse effects from doing this. You will be able to see the sensor and the electrical connector, easily. You will not need to remove any hoses. Reach over the top, disconnect the connector with your left hand, and move it to the left, out of your way. Use the 27mm deep socket, with about a 4" to 6" extension, and your ratchet. (I did not need to use a "flex" connection.) Removing the sensor is very simple. To remove the basket screen, use a 3/8" dia. bolt, check with finger feel to make sure you are centered on the screen, and use gentle downward pressure and make about 1/5th of a clockwise turn. I was able to lift the screen out, FIRST try! Clean the screen with solvent a couple times, and reverse blow through, with compressed air. Pop the screen back into the engine port and replace the sensor. This will only take a few seconds. Reconnect the electrical connector and restart the engine. Odds are high, that you will still have an erroneous pressure reading. That means the issue is a defective sensor. (When you put the new sensor in, and start the engine - don't have a heart attack. It probably took about 40 seconds for my ECM to recognize the new sensor.)
Yes sir. I was about to say the same thing. I just had that same exact problem on my Silverado last weekend. Gauge only showed oil pressure after starting but then would drop to zero. I took that filter out and it was clogged.
"Sorry about the camaera angle." Haaahaaa!! No problem, bud! It's one of the most hidden, hardest to get to parts on the truck. I'm surprised you got as good of a shot as you did.
I appreciate the quick to the point video! I have to replace the little screen in there! And btw good job showing the location, a lot of videos don’t actually show it
Its best to use the oil pressure socket it self. Sometimes the 1 1/16 & the 27mm over cross the oil pressure switch nut. Then its hard to get the socket off when you tighten the nut back on if you use the oil pressure socket itself it will come right back off once you tighten up the oil pressure switch.
We have an 07 tahoe. The oil sensor quit yesterday. We had a new 5.3 engine installed last week. I'm thinking something got broken. I can see ours, it's in the exact place yours is. Appreciate the video!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow 😖 No. I thought about it but the place I bought the center from didn't have any in stock so I just said FTS. LOL I'm paying for it now
Your the man! Been putting this shit off on my 2009 Sierra for far to long. Thanks for the straight forward lession! Stoked to get back in the truck instead of my damn commuter. Thanks again and happy holidays 👍👍
I've done quite a few of these. My long skinny arms can reach behind there so it's not too bad for me. But yes I agree with you, it's a real pain in the butt to get back there
What about the screen underneath it? That’s normally the problem with oil pressure on these. Sludge and gunk gets in it and blocks oil flow to the lifters. Thanks to cylinder cut out.
aaron lunsford yes, I'm sorry I failed to mention the screen. I made this video and kind of a hurry. The main point of the video was he just show the location of the sensor and how to remove it. The screen was not dirty on this one.
Alot times they are just dirty and can be cleaned with brake cleaner. Oil back up and most of the time they work fine after that. They dirty when you wait to long to change oil anything below 15% dirty starts moving around.
Tommy Brock took me about an hour. But that was because I thought the sensor was at the bottom of the firewall. It was up near the top. Another thing was the clip on the sensor. Once I got them off everything took 5 mins
This is a pain in the butt job for a big guy.. I tore the heck out of my hand trying to get to it.. The next time I'm going to disconnect both fuel lines off of the rail
You may find it difficult to keep the sensor in the socket when you are installing it. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the 6 points on the sensor then put the sensor into the socket. The paper wrapped around the sensor will hold it in the socket so that when you slide the socket and extension behind the engine the sensor does not come out of the socket. You can then use the extension to screw in the sensor to hand tight. Then use the ratchet. Just be careful not to cross thread the sensor when installing it.
Nice video, great camera angles. Gee, if the code was there because the clip was broken and the connection failed, it might be really hard to replace the connector.
These can really suck to get to. I always pull the intake off on personal or family vehicles. Doesn’t take long at all. These usually need new intake gaskets at some point anyways, might as well do it all. Last one I did on my personal pickup wasn’t the sensor at all, some damn field mouse got in there and chewed through all the wires. Btw, I just stumbled upon your channel and I’m loving the content!
use the right oil pressure deep socket and remove the intake plastic cover ( 3 6mm bolts)some models r&r fuel pressure line at left intake manifold and you can go straight behind intake no universal ( wobble) needed cheers.
Sincerely appreciate the vid. Watching the angles you took, I think I've been going too far to driver side to get access, straight forward might be the move.
Don’t drop any tools or parts. A 1/4 bolt of about two inch length will easily thread into filter 🗑️ and remove it. Don’t cross thread new sensor and it needs only moderate snug tightening. It’s not a head bolt only a thread seal fitting. You have to do it all by feel because of the ridiculously low access location. Lay a blanket over the radiator support grill structure and step ladder 🪜 up to actually sit there by the spare battery tray and power steering unit with feet down on it. It will most likely bark your hand up a bit from sharp edges back there but with care it can be changed out in about ten minutes. Drop parts and spend an hour of frustration searching for destination unknown crevices. 😊
Grill Wasabi Sushi Channel my man! Lol. This one happened to already be broken. But I've definitely broke them before. Things get brittle back there! Lot of heat!
Oil pressure pegged to the max or reading 0 are the most common failures, the particular failure on my yukon, the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate between 0 and 60 constantly whether at idle or driving it.
I'd like to know if anyone giving this video a thumbs up actually tried this. On most 5.3 it's damn near impossible to get to the oil pressure sensor without taking the entire intake manifold off.
Awesome thanks.. Just fixed mine - and what a M'fer getting to it with the fuel line and silly hard plastic (that snaps easy) in the way. Oh. not to mention the brake booster hose to the manifold connection RIGHT in the way and who at GM decided to put a steel bracket right in the way to remove the hard plastic vacuum tube. Great video - lousy design.
If you want to avoid breaking the plug, do like I did. I took a fairly long flat screwdriver, put the tip where the plastic part of the sensor meets the metal part, then hit the screwdriver with a hammer and busted the top off. I was then able to remove that top part from the plug without damaging the plug. Also, like others have said, change the screen while you're in there.
It's faster if you take a long flat head put it right at the base of the plastic and give it a good tap. Snaps the plastic top off and it's way easier to unplug it out and get your socket on
Thw original factory sensor is bigger than 27mm. I could use 27 to put the new one in but had to use a 29mm to take put old one for some reason was bigger.
Finally, a no-nonsense video on the replacement. Not a 15 min long video.
That's what I shoot for! I feel your pain on the 15 minute videos that could be 2 minutes. Part of the reason I started making short fix videos. Sometimes I find myself having to look back on them as well for answers and I don't want to see myself talk for 15 minutes either.
Side note, the 2011 5.3l connector ks different! Make sure you double check that you have the right part! It's still 3 prong but has wider spacing with a different clip mechanism!
th-cam.com/video/lUPEIrs3mrU/w-d-xo.html
This guy has the correct video for that!
after picking up the right tools, I changed it and the filter in less than 5 minutes. thanks to this video. one thing that happened was the old one was 27mm and the new one was just slightly smaller.
Yeah the sizes definitely vary depending on manufacturer. Thanks for commenting, and glad to hear the video helped you out.
Thanks for a video that gets straight to the point. Perfect camera angle to see the sensor. I really appreciate people like you taking the time to help others. 👍👍👍👍 subbed
Perfect, no-nonsense, straight to the point video! Thanks for posting this!
great video. i'll reiterate what others are saying about just how much contortion, strain, and hand compression it takes to do this job. i had the most success starting at the braided cable nearer the driver's side and following that down first to the electrical connection and then the sensor for removal. the electrical connection was the biggest obstacle, as mine was installed with the retaining clip at about 7 o'clock, meaning i had to find the perfect angle to somehow get my hand down past the edge of the connector shroud and then around it fully opposite myself, and up under the clip. building on advice from another video, a very small (like 1/8") allen wrench came in very handy. i wrapped electrical tape around the bottom to give myself a little bit more purchase.
after A LOT of blindly working the allen key around, the plastic shroud deformed enough it could be slipped over the tab holding it in place. using my phone as an inspection camera helped a lot, too... just don't drop it into the abyss.
edit - cheap pick from HF bent into basically a shephard's hook worked well to pull the screen. basically bend it a little bigger than the diameter of the screen so the "bell" you create pops over the top of the screen's housing. this'll keep you from destroying the screen if you want to just clean it. installed the new screen with a similarly cheap grabber tool from said importer of fine chinese hardware.
last note: 1-1/16 and 27mm will do the job, but you'll likely find that you wedge the sensor in -- especially the old one you'll have to use a multi-part ratchet setup like in the video to remove. may be worth paying for the specialty tool if you'll be doiing this on more than one job. i had to use a punch to pop the old one out of the 1-1/16 socket.
I've been trying to get that connector off for a couple of hours. My hand is bleeding. I cannot, for the life of me, get the tab pressed in, at the same time as have enough grip on the connector to pull it off. I don't know how you guys are doing it.
Thank you for the GOOD camera angle, and for your short video. Direct and to the point. I'm subscribing.
Gotta do my sensor this weekend.
Paul Rosemond thank you very much for your comment and for subscribing! glad the video helped you out!
I just did this on my 2013 silverado. This is the best vid for this procedure. No I did not remove any hoses. It was a real bitch to do but very doable. Some of the best advice was to lay Moving blankets across the motor and lay on top to reach comfortably. Another piece of advice before you do this is an engine flush and oil change before you do it. I didn't and fresh screen got partially plugged again after the sensor/screen swap
Picked up a 01 suburban for a song and dude told me it had a rear main leak - parked it and when i left again oil was just constantly coming out while the truck was on.
Got under it to confirm rear main but a buddy told me the location of the leak was coming from on high when I sent him my video - suggested replacing this.
Armed with this video I was able to get the job done - took me a while to find the real oil pressure socket but finally did at Napa the Harbor freight deep well / impact wasn't quite long enough for the older sensor.
Thanks again for such a helpful video!
Awesome man sounds like you got quite the deal then! Thanks for the comment I'm glad to help out!
Was it leaking from the filter side and the starter side? My 2000 suburban is leaking like that with a heavy flow while on idle.
@@israelpena7256 I uploaded the video I sent to my buddy - th-cam.com/video/clZeDQ_230Q/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video and thank you for all the great camera angles to see behind the plastic shield. My experience is you get back in there and unless you have thin hands you will be struggling to fit your hand between the firewall and plastic shield and it's harder than that as there is a wire harness right there too further limiting your space. I finally removed the old one and pulled the screen out using a long bolt to jam it into the filter, awesome. Well then when I put the new filter it fell into the back of the engine, never to be seen again so I used the old filer which was in very good shape anyway. Then when I tried to put the new sensor on it fell behind the engine never to be seen again. Then one of my extensions fell behind the engine never to be seen again, so I put the old broken sensor back on and basically spent 2-3 hours removing and replacing the old parts. LoL. Nothing like waiting an afternoon. This morning it's snowing and I need to go back and see if by some miracle I can locate those parts. In the process the large socket fell back there but it's so big I managed to get it out and even the old sensor fell but I managed to fish that out. Have fun y'all!!!
LOL, that sounds like a terrible experience you had there. ;) I hope you get it squared away , and thank you for your comment!
Yeah, I managed to see the extension with my phone camera this morning and once I knew were it was I used a magnet to fish it out, I can see the new sensor but its behind the wire harness, magnet won't stick to it since its aluminum, my grabber can't open big enough to grab it and the electrical end is facing down so no way to get it without removing the whole manifold. A new one on order, hopefully better luck on the next round.
I had the same issue a 5 minute job turned into a few hours of pain, busted my hand, new sensor broke, lost old sensor, zero degrees out, broke the connector tab. But finally got another one succeeded installing and engine light went off with new one. I would pay to get this changed again 🤣
Clear video and straight to the point! Just needed the socket size and I found this, even better!!
Happy to help out!
Unbolt the trans mount at the rear. Lift up the trans by the yoke. That will buy you about 3 inches from the firewall. Its the way i do it and it takes me 15-20 mins.
This might be the answer for me. I don't understand how anyone could get that electrical connector off. I can touch it...but there's no way I can get a grip on it, lift the lock, push in the tab, and wiggle the connector off. My hand is bleeding. I can't get a grip on that thing no matter what I do.
Thanks. Finally a straight forward simple how to. And yes. Good camera view of where it is.
Great Straight to the point vid for sensors.
Maybe u heard this already but they gotta change the filter on the bottom of it. Lol
Your channel name says it perfectly! No Nonsense. Thanks for a perfect video on how to fix this. Took me 15 minutes and saved me hundreds of dollars! New subscriber for life!
For parts, I just got out of Autozone and picked up the following for this going off the video here.
1) Oil Press. Sensor = Dorman #926-040 (includes screen filter)
2) Oil Pressure Socket (1/2 Drive) = OEM #25254
3) Duralast 5" Wobble Extension = #52-224
The special socket fits the sensor hex perfectly. I'll update my comment later to confirm everything worked or not. Got a GM engineer friend so I'll see if he can't look up the I&M sheet so we can get a torque spec.
Thanks for the video, hoping the ~$37 tool investment (+$55 for the part) saves me from an $800 shop invoice. 😀
Thank you! I followed the plastic shroud thing down and immediately felt the wire. Twenty minutes tops.
Good to hear!
Straighten to the point. one of the best videos I've seen.
Jesus.. I have watched 100 videos today on this exact thing... all 15 minutes at least and they still left me questioning things. I wanna hit them with this video
Thanks for the comment and feedback! That's exactly what I shoot for in my videos! Glad to hear it helped out
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow is it safe to drive my 2008 Chevy Tahoe with a bad oil sending unit
@@r-luvbham6608 I have been for about 6 months. Just been too lazy to do it. Going to do it this week finally. Remember this is a sensor, the engine doesn't need it to run. Just your oil pressure gauge will not work.
It doesn't do nothing just the anoying biping when oil is 0 i been driving my 03 Avalanche for a year now. Im waiting for the sensor to change it ill make a video named.
03 Avalanche oil pressure sensor replace
@@djvj1 I've had the same problem for a couple of months also n I'm bearly going see if I can do the job my self
thank you for the clear view of the amount of room behind plastic,!!
Justin Bigan thank you for the comment and I'm glad it helped out!
Best video on this I've seen. Thank God for people like you.
Great to hear it was helpful! Thanks for dropping a comment
Good video. The shot down to the sensor was just the thing I needed. Thanks a heap.
Thanks, I wish everyone could do brief informative videos like this, nice work.
Thank you as everyone else has expressed this was nice to have a clear picture and straight to the part location.
Great video, service manual calls for intake off; I've only ever done them the way you do. PLEASE NOTE; there is a filter screen that lives in the hole that often gets clogged; I'd strongly recommend replacing it or throwing it away, if dirty or brittle; avoid future issues. Cheers
Iam surprised no else mentioned to replace the filter sock hidden underneath the oil sender...good catch .when your replacing the sender the filter also should be done.
THAT was the info I was looking for! Thanks!!
My connection was different on 2009 Silverado. Getting that connection off was the toughest part. Thanks for the helkpful vid.
Great video. I was able to switch mine because of this. Dropped the old one down behind the block. Can't see it but be careful right before it comes loose. Do the last turn by hand. Thanks!
I think I'm going to opt for the "get a heavy pad and lie on top of the engine" technique.
Sometimes that's the best way! Good luck on it
I concur after replacing one for my Dad. I told him you almost had to just trade that MFer in. Lol.
@@josephsanchez3767 bro I’m at that point right now on my suburban. Biggest pain in the ass to change out. I can barely reach that mf’er. Lol
Wish you would have shown the filter also , Cause what's the point if it's plugged up?Your new sensor is not gonna read properly so you have to do it all over again so change it out when you change your sensor. From the woman who's doing this on her truck.
Thank you for not making this a half hour video! 👍
That's what I shoot for. :) thanks for the comment
Went to HF and they didn’t have a 1-1/16” like the other videos said to use; they did have a 27 so that’s what I bought. I’m going to tackle this task tomorrow.
The only video that I have seen that was actually educational and I have that daunting task today thanks so much for posting this
No problem. Thanks for commenting. I forgot to mention in the video that there is a small screen that should be pulled out and cleaned or replaced that is beneath the sensor. Just FYI
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks so much and now I have to go find a midget to throw in the engine compartment
No nonsense... people like you need some recognizance .. you very special..
Lol. Your comment is all the recognition I need. Thank you. :)
Awesome! I had to replace that sensor today and it took me 5 mins, I didn't lower the truck I just got on the tail gate of another truck haha.
Do we have to program it after its changed
Thank you for the video. It made replacing that sensor so much easier!
Just finished my 2012 5.3 and I used a 3/8 x 8 lag bolt to get the filter out and in. Took two seconds!!!
best and most straightforward vid ive seen yet. u just earned yourself a subscriber pal. awesome.
Good video straight to the point. You forgot to add the filter/strainer that goes under the sensor sometimes they get clogged and give a false reading 5 more minutes of work if that and a $10 parts might as well replace it
Thanks. And yeah I added that in the description after the fact. I wish I could go back and add a clip to the video without removing it
Thanks a lot a had a dumb ass mechanic tell me it was my oil pump and once I replaced this sensor for under $50 I saved $1000 your video made my holiday with saving 💰😁
Yeah that would have sucked if he went ahead and did the oil pump! Happy to hear the video help you out some. Happy holidays
My 2011 silverado 5.3 was having the oil pressure pegged at 80 for a few days then went straight to zero Replaced oil pressure sensor and filter and its fixed just for anyone who might be having the same weird oil pressure problem.
tools used were: 2 2in extention a 1 1/16th deep sock and a regular 1/2 inch rachet wrench the only problem i had was taking the stupid electrical connection off sensor
Alicia Selke wich filter did you change?
That's what I'm hoping is the only thing wrong with my 04 I don't have money to fix it if it's more severe. The oil pressure gauge pegs to 80 without the truck even running and when it is running it runs just as smooth as it has normally. No knocks or ticking which is a plus. I don't drive it enough for the oil to be bad. So we'll see when my ordered sensor gets here. Fingers crossed. :)
My 2013 Suburban just pegged at 80 for about 5 seconds then went to 0. Of course this was after an 8 hour trip made the previous day. Hopeful that it's just the sensor! I'd hate to be stuck 8 hours from home.... however it's still running with no noises....
What about the little filter screen just below the pressure sending unit. It is a common problem. It plugs up and causes the oil pressure to run low or no oil pressure. When you're in there it is just a pick to take it out and replace.
I was charged 8,000dollars at a place here in ky and still had no oil pressure, told them to replace the screen and they had no idea what i was talking about. Now i dont have enough money to sue them.. fuckin con artists. Lol
Listen up folks... Here is how to do this job real simply. Get a heavy thick blanket and put it on top of the motor because you are going to lay up there to get at eveything. At 1:01 of the video you will see the plastic baffle, at the rear of the engine, and there is a white spot visible. Take a sabre saw blade and make a vertical cut in the plastic (about 1/2" to the right of the white dot) and cut down toward the bottom, and then cut horizontally to the right. Then throw that piece away. (Presumably this is your own truck!). I did not find any adverse effects from doing this.
You will be able to see the sensor and the electrical connector, easily. You will not need to remove any hoses. Reach over the top, disconnect the connector with your left hand, and move it to the left, out of your way. Use the 27mm deep socket, with about a 4" to 6" extension, and your ratchet. (I did not need to use a "flex" connection.) Removing the sensor is very simple.
To remove the basket screen, use a 3/8" dia. bolt, check with finger feel to make sure you are centered on the screen, and use gentle downward pressure and make about 1/5th of a clockwise turn. I was able to lift the screen out, FIRST try! Clean the screen with solvent a couple times, and reverse blow through, with compressed air. Pop the screen back into the engine port and replace the sensor. This will only take a few seconds. Reconnect the electrical connector and restart the engine. Odds are high, that you will still have an erroneous pressure reading. That means the issue is a defective sensor. (When you put the new sensor in, and start the engine - don't have a heart attack. It probably took about 40 seconds for my ECM to recognize the new sensor.)
@@cementhead7358 That piece of plastic is there for a reason. Its a shield.
Yes sir. I was about to say the same thing. I just had that same exact problem on my Silverado last weekend. Gauge only showed oil pressure after starting but then would drop to zero. I took that filter out and it was clogged.
Walln Cuz I don’t know where at in Kentucky you’re at but I’m in Kentucky also and I sure in hell ain’t paying nobody $8000 to change the damn sensor
"Sorry about the camaera angle."
Haaahaaa!! No problem, bud! It's one of the most hidden, hardest to get to parts on the truck. I'm surprised you got as good of a shot as you did.
Man, Thanks for the quick and straight forward fix video!!!! Did pick up on the "clean the screen" in the comments, so that helps too. THANKS!!!
Excellent video! Short, sweet and to the point. There is a strainer/filter that is in hole as well...
Thanks. And yes I added that information to the description after uploading
Don’t forget to remove and replace the little filter under the sensor you need a hook pick to pull it out!
I appreciate the quick to the point video! I have to replace the little screen in there! And btw good job showing the location, a lot of videos don’t actually show it
Thanks, saved me some time. Nice clear camera work.
Daniel Bordner Thanks for the comment and im glad it helped you out! Thumbs up the vid is appreciated! Thanks again!!!
Its best to use the oil pressure socket it self. Sometimes the 1 1/16 & the 27mm over cross the oil pressure switch nut. Then its hard to get the socket off when you tighten the nut back on if you use the oil pressure socket itself it will come right back off once you tighten up the oil pressure switch.
I agree with you on that. Good tip
We have an 07 tahoe. The oil sensor quit yesterday. We had a new 5.3 engine installed last week. I'm thinking something got broken. I can see ours, it's in the exact place yours is. Appreciate the video!
Quick and to the point. Took me 5 minutes. Thank you
.
Sweet! Good stuff!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow updtae I got the 40$ chino version and it already took a dump
@@tiger9racing779 did you clean out the screen that's underneath the sensor? I forgot to mention it in this video but I did add it in the description
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow 😖 No. I thought about it but the place I bought the center from didn't have any in stock so I just said FTS. LOL I'm paying for it now
@@tiger9racing779 yeah that sucks. Oh well, at least now you know how to get in and out really easy! Definitely got to be easier the second time
Your the man! Been putting this shit off on my 2009 Sierra for far to long. Thanks for the straight forward lession! Stoked to get back in the truck instead of my damn commuter. Thanks again and happy holidays 👍👍
No problem! Thanks for the comment and happy holidays back at ya!
You also need to replace the screen below the sensor. It gets clogged often.
Not all of us are lucky enough to have the tab already broken. Taking the connector off is the worst part of this job
I've done quite a few of these. My long skinny arms can reach behind there so it's not too bad for me. But yes I agree with you, it's a real pain in the butt to get back there
Most definitely the best help video I found so far. Mad props man. Gonna sub
Thanks so much for the comment and sub! You the man!
Helpful video, looks easy but I get so much anxiety working on my vehicles I will take it to the mechanic
Straight forward and easy to understand. Appreciate you listing the tools needed, too. Thank you very much! Subscribing!
Side note, the 2011 5.3l connector is different for these. Its a three prong still but the spacing is wider with a different clip system!
What about the screen underneath it? That’s normally the problem with oil pressure on these. Sludge and gunk gets in it and blocks oil flow to the lifters. Thanks to cylinder cut out.
aaron lunsford yes, I'm sorry I failed to mention the screen. I made this video and kind of a hurry. The main point of the video was he just show the location of the sensor and how to remove it. The screen was not dirty on this one.
These can be tough to change, thanks for helping show the way!
This is why you buy a Toyota Tundra with a 5.7. My Tundra just turned over 200,000 with no problems except for minor maintenance.
Yeah they are good rigs for sure! Starter motor job is a pain in the butt though
This out of all the videos helped me most thanks
Mike Gabry thanks for your comment and glad it helped!
Agreed...
Alot times they are just dirty and can be cleaned with brake cleaner. Oil back up and most of the time they work fine after that. They dirty when you wait to long to change oil anything below 15% dirty starts moving around.
I want to there a screen just below that, that also needs cleaned
Best video out there!! I’ll be doing this on Saturday.
How did it go
Chris Willis easy peezy
Tommy Brock took me about an hour. But that was because I thought the sensor was at the bottom of the firewall. It was up near the top. Another thing was the clip on the sensor. Once I got them off everything took 5 mins
This is a pain in the butt job for a big guy.. I tore the heck out of my hand trying to get to it.. The next time I'm going to disconnect both fuel lines off of the rail
U forgot to talk about the filter, only need a pin hook to pull it out and replaced is very important, it takes 15 minutes to get it done
yes. i added that in description.
Your joking me its a 27mm socket? i searched weeks for that 1/16 socket in europe... You just helped me haha :D
Is 1 inch 1/16
Good luck finding a 27mm socket in the usa
27 is usually a very easy size to find anywhere
You may find it difficult to keep the sensor in the socket when you are installing it. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the 6 points on the sensor then put the sensor into the socket. The paper wrapped around the sensor will hold it in the socket so that when you slide the socket and extension behind the engine the sensor does not come out of the socket. You can then use the extension to screw in the sensor to hand tight. Then use the ratchet. Just be careful not to cross thread the sensor when installing it.
Kinda hard to get to is the understatement of the year so far
Nice video, great camera angles. Gee, if the code was there because the clip was broken and the connection failed, it might be really hard to replace the connector.
Great video. Simple and to the point. Thanks for the help!!
No problem Sasquatch!
Thanks my man! Just made me some.money without having to take the intake off
No problem. Glad it helped out!
Thank you brother!!!!! Very simple and straight to the point
No prob! Thanks for commenting
These can really suck to get to. I always pull the intake off on personal or family vehicles. Doesn’t take long at all. These usually need new intake gaskets at some point anyways, might as well do it all. Last one I did on my personal pickup wasn’t the sensor at all, some damn field mouse got in there and chewed through all the wires. Btw, I just stumbled upon your channel and I’m loving the content!
Yeah I agree sometimes pulling the intake is the way to go. An awesome, appreciate you checking the videos out. Thanks!
use the right oil pressure deep socket and remove the intake plastic cover ( 3 6mm bolts)some models r&r fuel pressure line at left intake manifold and you can go straight behind intake no universal ( wobble) needed cheers.
Sincerely appreciate the vid. Watching the angles you took, I think I've been going too far to driver side to get access, straight forward might be the move.
amazing how much a cheap inspection camera can help out on jobs like this. just watch the little screen
Don’t drop any tools or parts.
A 1/4 bolt of about two inch length will easily thread into filter 🗑️ and remove it.
Don’t cross thread new sensor and it needs only moderate snug tightening.
It’s not a head bolt only a thread seal fitting.
You have to do it all by feel because of the ridiculously low access location.
Lay a blanket over the radiator support grill structure and step ladder 🪜 up to actually sit there by the spare battery tray and power steering unit with feet down on it.
It will most likely bark your hand up a bit from sharp edges back there but with care it can be changed out in about ten minutes.
Drop parts and spend an hour of frustration searching for destination unknown crevices. 😊
I broke off the connector as well when I was trying to take the wiring off.
Grill Wasabi Sushi Channel my man! Lol. This one happened to already be broken. But I've definitely broke them before. Things get brittle back there! Lot of heat!
NoNonsenseKnowHow Do you know how to get rid of abs & brake lights? 😠
Just joined the high mile 5.3 crowd. As a newb , what are the failure modes for this?
Oil pressure pegged to the max or reading 0 are the most common failures, the particular failure on my yukon, the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate between 0 and 60 constantly whether at idle or driving it.
I'd like to know if anyone giving this video a thumbs up actually tried this. On most 5.3 it's damn near impossible to get to the oil pressure sensor without taking the entire intake manifold off.
They certainly are easy to get to but it's definitely doable
Great advice. Made the job quick and easy. Thanks
Awesome, glad to hear this old video is still helping some people out! Thanks for commenting
Awesome thanks.. Just fixed mine - and what a M'fer getting to it with the fuel line and silly hard plastic (that snaps easy) in the way. Oh. not to mention the brake booster hose to the manifold connection RIGHT in the way and who at GM decided to put a steel bracket right in the way to remove the hard plastic vacuum tube. Great video - lousy design.
Thank you brother for this informative video you saved my life.
If you want to avoid breaking the plug, do like I did. I took a fairly long flat screwdriver, put the tip where the plastic part of the sensor meets the metal part, then hit the screwdriver with a hammer and busted the top off. I was then able to remove that top part from the plug without damaging the plug. Also, like others have said, change the screen while you're in there.
This saved me! Thanks very much, Noel. Worked perfectly!
Good Video Man! Short...Sweet...to the bizness....
Should replace the filter
This is great if you remember to chsnge sockets to install the one. If you don't change sockets you're screwed. Don't ask me how I know.
Good video straight and to the point
very helpful no extra bs 👍
Good video. Quick and easy thanks
That camera angel was as perfect as you'd get with an inspection camera! Haha
Haha yeah, really tried to jam her back there. Luckily it came out okay
Yeah! Great camera angles. Thanks
About to check mine out. Thanks for video.
Victor Ryan No problem! Thanks for the comment/support!
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause an engine to burn oil?
You saved my ass. Make sure you clear the code after installing the new sensor or it will still show 0 psi.
It's faster if you take a long flat head put it right at the base of the plastic and give it a good tap. Snaps the plastic top off and it's way easier to unplug it out and get your socket on
Cool man thanks for the tip, I'll have to try that next time
You never mentioned replacing the filter screen underneath the sensor which commonly plugs up causing low oil pressure light to illuminate.
I updated the description after posting the video
It’s a lifetime warranty so if you break it. Don’t fret. Auto shop should replace it.
Bar far the best video over this stupid sensor
You are a godsend
Yep. Big hand mans not gonna be able to access that one easily. 😩
Almost busted my hand 😑
@@paulinoocampo8166 ouch. Not good.
Thw original factory sensor is bigger than 27mm. I could use 27 to put the new one in but had to use a 29mm to take put old one for some reason was bigger.