I always have an extra one on standby just in case the glass tube breaks. Several years later and I'm still using the first one I bought... these are surprisingly tough little glass tubes!
Thanks! I don't think I'd try this even with thin CA. While these are surprisingly durable given they're glass and really thin metal, I could see CA getting jammed up in there and I don't think you'd even be able to successfully clean it out.
The biggest problem I had with the Touch and Flow applicator was the needle getting clogged. I finally got frustrated with it and threw it in the round file.
I initially had that as well, but I found the key is to keep the needle moving along at a good speed otherwise the styrene melts and clogs that tip. It does take awhile to get the speed right though, so I can understand your frustration.
Use syringe tip (availaable in many sizes [length and diameter] ) Some tips are VERY small so deliver much less adhesive. Assorted sample idea: tinyurl.com/y42326dz and size chart (the colors really help) tinyurl.com/y6y7haw7
I have a joint with all surfaces painted. Will MEK melt through the paint to make a good Weld like Tamiya Extra Thin and Plastruct General Purpose Weld?
Not sure about the MEK through paint, though I suspect even if it did go through you would end up with a less strong joint. Just a guess there but if at all possible, I'd try and scrape the paint off first.
Question: does this MEK stuff have any effect on primers or paints? I had a friend use Plast-I-Weld by Flex-I-File and along most of the joint lines, the paint crinkled, even bubbled, and we thought it had to be the glue.
I've never had an issue painting over an MEK joint, though as always it'd be worth testing first. I've also never used Plast-I-Weld as years back I bought a gallon of the MEK and still have a good deal of it left. It's supposed to be one of the fastest evaporating solvents out there for styrene and from what I can see, it does dry with no residue. As a note, they now also make an MEK substitute, perhaps with a less toxic formulation. I use the original with a fan an open windows for ventilation.
That touch and flow applicator is the cat's pajamas
I always have an extra one on standby just in case the glass tube breaks. Several years later and I'm still using the first one I bought... these are surprisingly tough little glass tubes!
Great video. Have you tried this with CA glue? Or is CA glue too thick for this applicator?
Thanks! I don't think I'd try this even with thin CA. While these are surprisingly durable given they're glass and really thin metal, I could see CA getting jammed up in there and I don't think you'd even be able to successfully clean it out.
@@Raildig Ok great. Thanks for the quick response!
The biggest problem I had with the Touch and Flow applicator was the needle getting clogged. I finally got frustrated with it and threw it in the round file.
I initially had that as well, but I found the key is to keep the needle moving along at a good speed otherwise the styrene melts and clogs that tip. It does take awhile to get the speed right though, so I can understand your frustration.
Use syringe tip (availaable in many sizes [length and diameter] ) Some tips are VERY small so deliver much less adhesive.
Assorted sample idea: tinyurl.com/y42326dz and size chart (the colors really help) tinyurl.com/y6y7haw7
I have a joint with all surfaces painted. Will MEK melt through the paint to make a good Weld like Tamiya Extra Thin and Plastruct General Purpose Weld?
Not sure about the MEK through paint, though I suspect even if it did go through you would end up with a less strong joint. Just a guess there but if at all possible, I'd try and scrape the paint off first.
Question: does this MEK stuff have any effect on primers or paints? I had a friend use Plast-I-Weld by Flex-I-File and along most of the joint lines, the paint crinkled, even bubbled, and we thought it had to be the glue.
I've never had an issue painting over an MEK joint, though as always it'd be worth testing first. I've also never used Plast-I-Weld as years back I bought a gallon of the MEK and still have a good deal of it left. It's supposed to be one of the fastest evaporating solvents out there for styrene and from what I can see, it does dry with no residue. As a note, they now also make an MEK substitute, perhaps with a less toxic formulation. I use the original with a fan an open windows for ventilation.