I have the Relay you show at the 1:04 mark and it reads 5.5 ohms and does not rattle. I have the Overload you show at the 1:10 mark and it reads 0.6 ohms. In short, everything works on my GE GBS22KBSBCC refrigerator except the fridge will not go below 40F and the freezer will not go below 33F. So, what would not allow strong cooling .....if the start relay was bad or the capacitor? Defroster, thermistors, evaporator fan, condenser fan are all working and the coils are spotless. I even checked the three prongs on the condenser and got a 8.4 ohm on the two main prongs, 4.5 ohms on the left and 4.2 ohms on the right. My Embraco 1PH condenser has a label on the side reading "LRA of 11.5 EGU 70HLC' 115 - 127 V". My multimeter read 0.8 amps when it is running. The Capacitor multimeter read 11.85 uF (210 VAC 50/60 Hz @ 12 uF). Some history - In July 2016 I did had a technician add R 134a and in October 2018 I had to add an evaporator thermistor since my evaporator coils were an iceberg and it was not triggering the defrost mode; refrigerator was warm but freezer worked fine. NOTE: I made a video of the Start Relay arcing with the Overload when the compressor was called for power; there was just a click sound but no compressor. Then, 90 seconds later, it called on it again and the compressor hummed away. When I took it apart again the Star Relay gave the same reading but I noted it was VERY hot. Could this Relay still be bad but not activating all the time thus overheating because it is sometimes working? If so, maybe this is why the temperatures cannot catch up. With that said, I do not know the spec for my compressor amps but had some hand written notes from the 2006 technician (when he filled my R143a) stating the original amps were 0.7 and after he added 4.5# the amps were 1.55. His notes also read "spec = 1.5 to 1.7 amps). Should I purchase a new Relay and, if so, is it "good practice" to purchase a new Overload, also? They are very pricy at $76 and $80, respectively......for a piece of plastic! ANY direction would be greatly appreciated by you.
@@sandswhales what wat the fridge doing or not doing..my fridge will only cool to 14*...it's not dirty and fans are running..could this be a switch problem?
@@rickystone4137 unplug it move it so you can get access to the back and clean the coils underneath. As best as you can. Clean the front ones as well. They may be dirty. If it still having issue then swap out the part for a new one. They are inexpensive and will fix the issue
I have the Relay you show at the 1:04 mark and it reads 5.5 ohms and does not rattle. I have the Overload you show at the 1:10 mark and it reads 0.6 ohms. In short, everything works on my GE GBS22KBSBCC refrigerator except the fridge will not go below 40F and the freezer will not go below 33F. So, what would not allow strong cooling .....if the start relay was bad or the capacitor? Defroster, thermistors, evaporator fan, condenser fan are all working and the coils are spotless. I even checked the three prongs on the condenser and got a 8.4 ohm on the two main prongs, 4.5 ohms on the left and 4.2 ohms on the right. My Embraco 1PH condenser has a label on the side reading "LRA of 11.5 EGU 70HLC' 115 - 127 V". My multimeter read 0.8 amps when it is running. The Capacitor multimeter read 11.85 uF (210 VAC 50/60 Hz @ 12 uF). Some history - In July 2016 I did had a technician add R 134a and in October 2018 I had to add an evaporator thermistor since my evaporator coils were an iceberg and it was not triggering the defrost mode; refrigerator was warm but freezer worked fine. NOTE: I made a video of the Start Relay arcing with the Overload when the compressor was called for power; there was just a click sound but no compressor. Then, 90 seconds later, it called on it again and the compressor hummed away. When I took it apart again the Star Relay gave the same reading but I noted it was VERY hot. Could this Relay still be bad but not activating all the time thus overheating because it is sometimes working? If so, maybe this is why the temperatures cannot catch up. With that said, I do not know the spec for my compressor amps but had some hand written notes from the 2006 technician (when he filled my R143a) stating the original amps were 0.7 and after he added 4.5# the amps were 1.55. His notes also read "spec = 1.5 to 1.7 amps). Should I purchase a new Relay and, if so, is it "good practice" to purchase a new Overload, also? They are very pricy at $76 and $80, respectively......for a piece of plastic! ANY direction would be greatly appreciated by you.
Very nice,one problem though remains.What if the overload relay is no accessible for removal/replacement? GE PFE29PSDASS
When would this be needed to do? In other words what problem causes this malfunction replacement?
dirty coils. dust build and lack of air circulation
@@sandswhales what wat the fridge doing or not doing..my fridge will only cool to 14*...it's not dirty and fans are running..could this be a switch problem?
@@rickystone4137 Celsius? Or farenheit? And is the freezer getting warmer as well
@@sandswhales Sorry, the freezer side will only go to 14* Fahrenheit
@@rickystone4137 unplug it move it so you can get access to the back and clean the coils underneath. As best as you can. Clean the front ones as well. They may be dirty. If it still having issue then swap out the part for a new one. They are inexpensive and will fix the issue