Compressor Overload Protector Testing! How it Works!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- In this HVACR Training Video, I Test the two types of commonly used External Compressor Overload Protectors. I show how hot they get before they trip, how they are wired and how to troubleshoot them using a multi-meter. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Very in depth, this is good for someone like myself who is very amateur and who is trying to learn a little about this trade on my own.
2:04 At this place in the video is where I believe the issue is on my Magic Chef mini frig as that little electric coil is crispy fried inside the Compressor Overload Protector ( which looks basically the same as that one with the little coil in the video ). I didn't get a reading on my multimeter Ohms setting so decided to just open up the "fuse" / overload Protector and found the coil fried and just like a fuse, part of it was burnt clean through thus no circuit continuity. Being totally unfamiliar with any of this hardware as it's not my career I had no idea just looking at that COP that it would have had anything at all in it. Your video was very useful and really good. Thanks ! Too bad I can't add a photo of the fried coil but it burnt clean through near one of its solder post points.
Good information Craig of how thermal overloads work along with the demonstration. Keep up the good work! 😀👍
Thank you very much stuzman!
Excellent video thank you! I have a question regarding a fairly simple Magic Chef wine cooler. I had a blown PTC thermistor that I replaced about a year ago and everything worked fine. The PTC has blown again. As I examine the disc it has slight burn, arc marks on one side. The overload protector tests .4 ohms cold so that is fine. My question is why am I getting this burn developing over time on the PTC disc? Thank you.
Thanks for the great video. Time to take my dehumidifier apart and see if I can fix it. I'm fairly certain this is the issue...
Thank you! Videos like yours are invaluable but fairly rare. The signal-to-noise ratio on the net these days is not ideal.
It's amazing what we learn when things fail: For me lately, it's all about fridge (relay, overload, capacitor, compressor), combining info from videos like yours, while taking things apart to look inside and figure out how they work. I've bought a couple cheap aftermarket "start devices" (combo relay, overload); one failed immediately, the other failed after about a week. It seems the overloads do not have continuity when cool, going to take one apart now to have a look. (Update: Overload had continuity only up until final link to terminal, underneath disc there was tiny wire that was disconnected or blown on one side; not coiled at all like in video, possibly due to being cheap junk.) I cleaned up the original old start device (corrosion, connections, relay disc) and the fridge is no longer complaining (luckily the overload and capacitor seem fine). Will get me by until I can find some affordable OE genuine parts.
This video makes my life is better . Thank you 🙏
Best video I could find. I have tested the compressor and the thermal protector and cap, all look good. When I test the two wires that go to the protector/cap and plug in the power cord I only get 0.3 Volts. Should it be 120V? what would cause this?
Thanks for sharing, i'm replacing the relay on my refrigerator (it was rattling and when i took it apart everything was crumbled inside it)
I was wondering if the protection generally goes on the connector on the top of the three, mine is exacly the same as the one in the video. The wire going in the protection is labeled "1" and the one that goes in the relay is neutral.
Thank you for helping me with my refrigerator.
Excellent video. Your videos enabled me to test the Current Starting Relay and Compressor Overload Protector to by okay, but still my Freezer compressor is not working. I wonder what might be the cause, any thought. Appreciate your help
Great video, thank you for taking the time to make it
Thanks and glad to help!
Thanks for the explanation. We had a power outage and it killed my older freezer and the main AC unit. I didn't really want to buy a new freezer so after some googling I found a common part to replace after the power outage and just threw parts at it and sure enough it worked.
Now I am curious as to what failed and why and found your video after youtubing compressor Overload Protector. I'm also curious if any of the brands on amazon are better than the others. My bad part was Klixon brand but I couldn't find that one, so I bought what would be delivered the next day to save what was in my freezer.
can I pop the fuse back and re use it? I had a window unit where the overload protection popped. can I just pop it back in or should I get a new one?
On the round type compressor protector I want to compare the data on the bimetallic disc. These exact part numbers are hard to find. On mine there is a yellow waxy cover. If that cover is removed does it reduce the operation of the part? I’m not sure it can be put back on.
Can you replace the round type protector with a the flanged type? Cause I did that as well as replacing the pic thermistor and it goes off instantly when I plug it in. The run capacitor (which is what I think it is at 12uf) is also showing 18mf so maybe that’s the bad part?
I am not able to find part overload protector DRB178N61A1 which is making a rattling sound on my r600a refrigerant. The relay is not making any rattling sound. My problem is I am not able to find the part DRB178N61A1 anywhere online. Can you please help?
Hello. Thanks for the explanation.
I have a question. I have a fusite in the scroll compressor. The fusite is acting as a normally closed contact passing throught it 24 volt AC. I want to ask if i can pass through it a 24 volt DC. Because my PLC can take only DC voltage.
And please if you can make a video about mainly fusite and its types and wiring and how it works.
Thank you
I wonder if you can help me I have the same exact model. It is not really that old maybe six months old
Basically the switches are working...
It works exactly as it's supposed to accept the prongs that make the ice and get frosty do not get frosty..
I did check the overload for the compressor.. it read 1.0 ohms when it was cold or room temp..
The only thing I can think of is the compressor is not working..
I hear it click on and off it sounds like it's turning on but again not getting cold?
I also heard that it could be a relay because my compressor is clicking on and off about every minute..
Thanks. My OLP is reading 0.8 ohms. I wonder if that's too high or if it's fine. My relay went bad and I don't want to buy a new OLP if there's nothing wrong with it.
How do I know which overload protector I need? I cannot find any references online that match the numbers on the protector or by my refrigerator model number.
So I have a wine fridge that wont turn on it cycles on and off on and off etc....I have removed the relay and overload protector, when i shake the relay it makes no noise, however, when I shake the ocerload protector it rattles. Is this normal? My guess is no although I checked it and it had 0.9 ohms resistence...your thoughts
If you have a reciprocating compressor with the round thermal protector, will it not allow the compressor to work if it is not installed back into the spring setting against the compressor ?
I would like to know I have a lg refrig and the only thing that works is the fan by the compressor no lights no cololing nothing. the compressor does work. I have replaced the motherboard and nothing has changed. what do you think? Would a defective overload protector cause everything lights fans have nothing?
What if the thermister reads over .5 ohms.. around 26.8 and the overload protector reads 1.5 ohms
Are they a bad one? Or good?
Thank you
New klixon thermal protector has an extra terminal one is marked 1 and is a male spade the other is marked 2 and has a threaded screw hole. Are both protected? I cannot find that info anywhere...
my 0.6 hp window type ac suddenly stops cooling anymore. I heard a soft humming sound and a few seconds later the sound is gone and no sounds of the compressor. Does it mean the protector is busted? Pls reply sir. Thanks.
And how do you know what thermal protection for refrigerator compressor you need? The degree of protection is not written on mine. As far as I saw there are degrees from 1/2HP to 1/16HP. All I know is that he spends 107Kwatt a year. Or so it is noted. This is written on it: DRB12T61A1 AM 18I-2 *129. It's the fridge NEO BC-125 WA+ MID
Another fine video. Good job explaining these devices. What I'm left wondering is why they auto-reset. Is this just there for some sort of short-cycle situation (resulting in high head pressure), like a short power outage? Or perhaps for brown-outs, where the voltage goes down but the current goes up. Otherwise, if they compressor can't start now, why would we expect it to start in 4 minutes when this protective device cools down.
Yes for voltage irregularities, abnormally high heat at the outdoor unit, and other unrelated problems. The manufacturers don't want their product being blamed as bad or that you have to take components apart to reset them when the problem is something else such as bad input voltage, thanks!
hi can you use a 1/5 hp protection overload on a 1/4hp rated compressor?
My compressor is good when tested, relay ptc also beefs of continuity test, overload also beefs with all these the compressor didnot start any help please
I have a salad prep Atosa MSF8302 not workin properly. It cools most of the time but sometimes it wont cool for hours , any idea what could it be?
This is a commercial refrigerator, i had a guy to look at it he said he fixed, i payed him and it’s still doing the same. I’m trying to figure it out before i pay someone else for nothing . Thank you!
Super helpful. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
I could not find a website or video explaining the specifications of the Refrigerator Overload Protector, because some of them contain incomprehensible numbers.
thank you, partner, for sharing what an excellent video thank you for sharing.
Thanks a lot jimbola77!
Very informative video!!!! Thanks for sharing. Are refrigerator PTC thermistor circular discs interchangeable, or do they have different characteristics/values? Thanks.
Also wondering the same. For now, I assume if they look exactly identical and have same ohm resistance they will work fine.
I had an issue with the heat pump last fall. The first thing I noticed was the unit wasn't cooling well, but when I checked the pressures everything was ok and the fan seemed to be running fine. I thought it must be because it was too hot out. Then I got the electric bill which was really high. I checked both the caps and they were low, replaced both and the load current dropped. The condenser fan (outside) was pretty old and I decided to replace it (had a spare already) and didn't want to loose the compressor. All is ok now, but wouldn't it be nice to have something that could warn you with something like a wide flat lever that would smack you up the side of your head. Well, maybe some simple circuits with temp switches, I guess one on each fan motor and then something on the compressor. You could latch and lockout a 24V relay, turn on a light and a buzzer as an early warning or just break the 24V to the unit and also leave some clues to what the failure was. Those thermal overloads that just reset and start the cycle again will eventually kill the compressor (a couple of days past the warranty).
You are correct about the thermal overloads. They will "trip" about 200 times, and then will wear out due to metal fatigue.
That just answered a couple questions I could not find answers to anywhere else.
Glad it was helpful
Great educational videos, you are awesome. thank you for your contribution to better everyone in HVAC business.
How to replacement the old OVERLOAD PROTECTOR SQUARE to CIRCLE OVERLOAD PROTECTOR?
What should the overload resistance read when it IS cool.
Another great video. Have you done one on compressor internal overloads ( thermal and pressure relief valve)?
Not to date but you can test for a bad internal pressure relief by performing a partial pump down to see if the relief is strong enough to hold, thanks
Is it okay to swap the wire of olp?
Hi I was wondering what are some causes of thermal overload? I had a compressor tripping yesterday had a garden hose on it to close it again. It was a 20+ year old unit. All I could figure was the new fan motor someone replaced wasn’t the right rpm.
You would need pressure and amperage measurements to determine what is going on unless the fan is just not blowing the correct amount of air and the compressor is overheating due to overly high pressure, thanks!
Very good information bro keep it up God bless
Very good video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Can you run ac without it? Will compressor turn on?
Help! I watched this video cast on to my TV. It continued on to another video on the TV but not my phone. It showed 3 different size compressors. I couldn't stop or save it since my phone is showing a different one and I don't know why.
Is there any chance you know which video plays next auto?? I really want to watch it!
I believe that was "acservicetech compressor starting devices"
Hey Craig is it possible for those external overloads on the rotary compressors to weaken over time causing them to prematurely open on an otherwise good compressor? Just curious.
Yes the contacts are the most suseptable part which is the one that will typically cause the component to fail, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks
My dehumidifier runs, but doesn't pull any water from the air. Previous family member that owned it extensively used it with an extension cord. I've read it's a ver common issue to kill the motor protector when running a unit off of a cord. My question is: I can't find a direct replacement for the part I need (B320-150B-141E). Can I use something similar? Is there a large difference between part models? (many look the same). Lastly, after running the unit for a few ours to test it out, I noticed that the compressor was very hot to the touch even though no water was being condensed. Would this still be expected if the motor protector was burned out? Thanks
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What happened to my freezer if I swap 1/6hp to 1/10hp
Hi guys, im a service technician in Botswana and love the great work y'all are doing with the videos! Coincidentally i had a similar problem just the other day with a Maclaren 12000 btu packaged unit! The compressor was heating up and much like in the video the thermal overload kept it from starting! I did an ohm test, continuity test and ground test to the compressor and everything checked out! I also tested the capacitor and also did a visual test and still everything seemed legit! I then took the decision to remove the thermal overload to see whether the compressor would start (big mistake) long story short the compressor overheated and shutdown! Can you help on what could have been the problem and what could i have done different
Dang you didn’t go over the one relay that I have.. the open one with the chrome circle 😢
Hi, excellent video. Very informative. I'm looking for a thermal overload protector for a 1/2 HP / 110V refrigerator compressor. Checked Ebay, Amazon with no luck. I'm seeing a lot of 1/4 and 1/3 hp; but no 1/2 hp @110v. Can you recommend where I might find this??
Johnstonesupply.com
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you very much!
Thanks for this video. Can I use overload protector B60-120 in lieu of B95-120. Can't find B95-120. Used for a wine chiller.
Thanks
Did you figure this out? I’m having the same issue
Do these come in sizes like capacitors or limit switches on a gas furnace? Or are they just universal.
Come in different horsepower ratings for various size compressors.
Does the ohm value of the ptc really matter when replacing? Does the overload protector horsepower value really matter when replacing?
Overload protector (OP) horsepower value matters, because heating coil is sized according to compressor size. Smaller OP will trip quickly on larger than it's rated compressor. Larger than specified OP may not trip and compressor can burn out.
A little off topic but I can’t find a video anywhere with my situation. I have an r22 heat pump system which is low on Freon. I also have an older r22 condenser which was pumped down to save the refrigerant for later use (which is not connected to anything). What is the best way to transfer from the old condenser to top off the running one? Could you maybe make a video? I won’t be doing it myself but I like to know the process so I don’t get taken advantage of. Thanks a lot.
We will recover that refrigerant into a recovery bottle for future use, thanks!
Don’t have a recovery bottle. Can it be done from condenser?
Hi, I recently had a repair service man replace my over load protector plus relay and thermostat in my fridge. Half an hour after the service the compressor started over heating and now after having a look again at the fridge he told me that the compressor coil had burnt down and will cost a lot of money to fix, What did he do wrong that it blew up my compressor, he refuses to acknowlege that either one of the three parts damaged my compressor and refuses to fix it even though I had paid an insurance premium for damage caused due to service. Please explain this to me and most importantly do i have a case that a faulty part replacement caused the sudden burning of my compressor coil. Thank You!
To be sure, you will have to do some technical digging yourself or third party FILM IT ALL. First place to start is that OL he replaced. You will have to apply heat to it and see if it opens up. Use a hair dryer and an infrared thermometer; like in the video about 200F. Did he clean the condenser (black steel coil) in the back of the unit? Did he check to see the condenser fan motor working? Wouldn't be unusual for a bad condenser fan or seriously impacted coil and a bad OL to smoke a compressor in 30 minutes. Either way, I would say there is a high probability the OL didn't do it's job for whatever reason. Again, don't touch anything without meticulously filming it. You want to clearly see how everything was installed before touching it. If they come back in, they can just cover up a possible mistake.
@@lJUSTwanaCOMMENT Thank you for your reply, Im afraid he did come back once and changed parts after the burn out and then said it would be fixed, which of course it wasn't. I was ignorant at the time and the service man did hide to his company employer that he also changed the OLP, I only found out that later when I scrutinized the bill. So I dont think that a recording would help at the moment. Thanks again for your help I greatly appreciate it !
Hi, I just got a new Overload Protector but when i shake it i can hear this noise. Does it mean is bad?
Yes Thats what i want to know too, does anyone knwo?
No. OLPs make noise when shaken, good or bad. See this video:
th-cam.com/video/nx7l9kY2_bU/w-d-xo.html
01/0L like you said if it's defective is that the same as 1 or infinity?
0.L is infinity and means the switch is bad if the switch is cool, thanks!
Unrelated: i was on a fujitsu two headed duckless heat pump in cooling mode an both LIQUID lines were freezing up. any ideas?
It could be low on refrigerant, remember the txv metering device is usually in the outdoor unit so the small liquid tube is after the metering device and is low pressure, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel thanks, at the time i didn't have my 5/16 to 1/4 adaptors so i couldn't check the pressure. I'm going back tomorrow i think. I was thinking it was either low or the reversing valve could be the issue
Ok thanks and let me know what you find but it sounds like it is low on refrigerant.
@@acservicetechchannel yeah it was low. she's all good now
Thanks for letting me know!
Thanks for shareing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir for the video
Most welcome
My freezer turns on and off every minute, I replace relay and over load but nothing changes
What is the common temperature trip point or threshold does most compressor overload protectors trip at? 200 degrees is very hot to trip at
it's based on ampacity, the element heats up
Could you by-pass the OLP just to see if the compressor runs, therefore bad OLP.
It is not recommended to attempt to start the compressor by bypassing OLP. OLP is there to help save the compressor windings from damage, check OLP for continuity. A good OLP should be a closed switch, upon drawing too much power the OLP will open and keep the compressor from drawing a high amperage.
Sir is the overload protector rattle if its defective or damaged like a damaged relay?
There shouldn't be a rattle with an overload protector, thanks
Thanks so much I’m about to start school for my HVAC certificate this is a huge help!
@@acservicetechchannel - Not according to this video. Good ones do rattle.
th-cam.com/video/nx7l9kY2_bU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
At 130 degrees and so is the pipe that leaves to the condenser coils
The tube leaving the condenser coil should be much lower than the tube temp entering the condenser coil, thanks
How hot can the compressor head get or should get?
It really will depend on the condition of the condenser coil and the airflow crossing the condenser coil, thanks!
so when the overload protector trips after 10 seconds is that ok or is that an issue?
also can you use any overload protector? or is their a certain amps rating that differs each?
If it trips after 10 seconds there is an issue going on. The OLP only opens when the circuit draws too much power.
@@valmin5589They are rated in fractional horsepower to match compressor they are protecting
A good idea is to fill the compressor with water before regassing. Then there is no need to vacuum
Bro this olp connect inside the compressor?
Compression body?
Ac service tech. What if you have 2 open windings on 1ph 175v conpressor (residential fridge) lg compressor. I know if it overheats 1 winding opens. But you have 2 windings with no resistance /continuity.! Diagnosed bad compressor. I thought common sense. Turns out the new compressor comes in with also 2 open windings! Wth!
Bula form Fiji🇫🇯..
I have r134 refrigerator compressor
It really will depend on the condition of the condenser coil and the airflow crossing the condenser coil, thanks!
When a relay goes off and on all night when the heat doesn't go home. Come on, what's the problem?
Saw
😀👍.. So it's like a fuse but unlike a fuse that permanently has its current cutoff, returns to its original state when temperature drops... Ok😳
Or a circuit breaker
Doesn't cleared
🙏🙏🙏🤝👍🏽👍🏽
I dont understand why people make things too complicated.....this man shows us very complicated way jus the thing was a matter of 2 minutes but he went to show us long way with a lot of tools and....blablabla....to chek relay is not so complicated and also it not important to show us all this tools.
My refrigerator compressor gets up to about 160 degrees F. the thermal overload opens of course. later on the relay just clicks and the compressor won't start. Why does the compressor get so hot ? are the contacts of the overload carboned up and causing the compressor t draw excessive amps ? I don't have the manufacturer or model / serial numbers for the refrigerator. There are numbers on the start relay and the thermal overload but I'm not sure of what they're showing me online is the right part in terms of what amps and temperature they are supposed to function.
The relay says: EMB Model 501 90157 4 49 182225 03 The info on the thermal protector is: 14MATAXLD 176869 A8526 I took the start relay apart and cleaned a lot of carbon off of the contact tips but I couldn't disassemble the thermal protector to check it out. Jim in buffalo, Ny 08/22/2023
What is more likely, an overload or start relay failure? Compressor is hot and there is clicking heard but the compressor is not starting. Is there a basic way of testing the start relay like tapping on it or something?
Relay
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