Brilliant unlike most other youtube vids that just show everything as easy and problem free this really captures how most jobs actually go especially when your working on your own, loved that rear wheel install trying to hold the wheel up keep the spacers in place and push the axle in, real world.
Very grateful for your insight! I just bought my V and the chain was toast. Fully 1 1/2 inches longer than the new chain. A couple of frozen links too. Also changed both sprockets and glad I did. The front looked fine on the bike (so almost left it on) but once it was in my hand then could see it was very worn. The string method for alignment is genius! My swing arm tick marks are off by 3/16 inch. It's unbelievable how much smoother the bike rides now. Your doing a good work, AMC!
+Nait ramde That is a toasted chain! Its like a whole new bike after new chain and sprockets isn't it! Mine seemed to buzz less with the new drive system. And now with new tyres too its really come alive. I just wish that they cous always be new! Sadly i can't take full credit for the steering idea, although i saw it done around the tyres and decided that the sprockets made more sense! (Cue the arguments to the contrary! 😅) . Glad to hear that your V is finally running at its best. Enjoy!
Great video! Interesting to watch. :) It helps to take that bolt out from time to time, clean the threads and grease it in. That will make it less likely to get stuck. :)
Great trilogy of videos, thanks. Your editing captured the frustration of a broken bolt very realistically!! On my KTM 1290, the wheel is a 'force fit' into the swingarm, so once the disc is lined up in the caliper, you can yank it up and it stays pretty much in the right position to slide the axel through - it's really handy because the big wheel with 170 tyre is quite heavy. I can recommend the pro-oiler with GPS...not cheap, but not expensive compared to replacing chain & sprocket. Once calibrated properly, which is pretty easy from the provided tables, it oils the chain via electronic pulsed pump in precise metered doses according to GPS calculated distance & wheel revolutions (ie unlike the cheaper gravity feed). It's kept the chain in great condition, and really clean compared to the usual chain lubes. Some people get 50,000+ from their chains with these, and they rarely need thorough cleaning (just an idea if you stay with a chain drive for a while).
+Ronan Rogers Thanks Ronan! That setup on the KTM sounds way better! And i love the idea of flawless chain oiling. I'd love to be jumping to shaft drive asap, but i don't think it'll be for a while yet!!
so glad I don't have this faff anymore! shaft drive so much easier, don't wanna go back to chain if I can help it but there isn't a massive choice of shafties being made right now.
You did great. I am glad that I have a drive-shaft type motorcycle. (Goldwing). Your patients and hard work won the day. Thanks for the Video. I don't cuss too much but I might have said a choice word about the time that bold twisted off. Keep having fun on your motorcycle.
+Idaho Rider Thanks IR. I would LOVE to have a shaft drive. Shame there aren't too many around the 750cc mark any more. It's all about cheap nowadays unfortunately. I'm impressed with myself here. I didn't cut out any cussing, so what you heard is what I said!
Wow, I'm four years late to the party. Great video with the stiff upper lip and all. Very patient. I saw the comment about the success of the taller gearing...that's what I'm looking for also.
Welcome aboard! Better late than never mate! The taller gearing was a real winner. The gears suddenly made more sense and the worst buzz was shifted out of the way!
Hi Andy, I have 2018 Versys 650, and I use also this notches for lining rear and fron sprocket after chain adjustment. But i see that they are not very accurate. This how you use string to lining up, I think that you can use same methond with chain on sprocket. Just need to check is it rear sprocket in middle on inside chain. Make couple turning with rear tire on paddock stands, and check is it again rear sprocket in middle on inside chain. I hope that you understand what I am talking. What is you answer, will that work? I don't see reason why that will not work.
Well done Andy. Nice work in difficult circumstances! I did my Blackbird chain and sprockets a few months ago and my DID didn't come with a 3 finger spacer either. They must be cutting back :( Also I noticed +Coldfin9er comment about flare dimension which I'll look into too as that was a stressful part of the fit. Also a vernier calliper might be a good addition to my toolkit. Great vids. Cheers.
Cheers Al. Yeah what's that about. I guess DID can't lose. They save money on the part. And if you get it wrong then they sell you a new chain! Buggers! I've used my calipers about a squillion times. Thoroughly useful bit of kit. I had a digital set too but broke it. Can always rely on the good old analog though!
Thanks RG. I'm glad it came across that way! There were a few tense moments there! But you get things fixed quicker with a level head. Or you realise sooner that there's no point panicking because it's jiggered and you may as well just enjoy a beer!
There is a flare dimension the rivets need to pressed to, details are on the DID website (0.224" to 0.236" for a 530 ZVMX for example) measure the rivet head with your callipers :)
That's a great little detail to know! I wonder if i missed it in my chain pack or if it's another hidden gem for the more persistent diy mechanics! I'll be checking that asap. Cheers!
+Andy Man Cam , don't know if you obtained the info yet, but just in case, the pin's outside diameter flare spec is 5.4 - 5.8 mm. This is per the service manual for my 2015 Versys 650. Thanks for your vids. Very useful stuff for us V riders over here in the states 👍😉
I hated doing this so much I ended up getting one of those little Profi laser dot things. You place it on the sprocket and walk the dot up and down the chain links. It still makes some assumptions (like that your sprocket isn't warped...) but it's close enough for me. The hashmarks on my bike aren't actually too bad. The other thing that absolutely infuriates me is my chain is apparently 'high carbon' which means that if it even sees a rain cloud, it gets spots of rust. They come off easily but it looks unsightly. I _hate_ chain maintenance. Easily the worst thing about owning a bike.
You're inspirational. At some point in your life you must have read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Mechanics" What patience, of which the dictionary defines as "the state of endurance under difficult circumstances" I would have been inventing new swear words well into that experience.
+Ken Palmateer Thank you kindly Ken. I've had my years of exploding angrily when things go wrong! Now I know that I get to the celebratory beer at the end much faster if I just figure it out and get on with it! That's not to say I wasn't sweating swear words out of my furrowed brow!
Hooray, it's all good in the end eh? On my GPZ900 there is an aluminium plate over the swinging arm that unbolts,so no split links! Why don't all bikes get designed like this eh?😎
+ninjanelly350 A very valid question. I bet I know the answer too. MONEY!! It makes such sense, but I bet it costs too much. Same with mid sized shaft drives and single sided swing arms! Grrrr!
Thanks! Yeah i know! I didn't believe it at first, but a bit if time on Google quickly revealed that it's way more common than you think! Nobody's perfect i guess! !
Damn. This is discouraging news that the wheel alignment marks can't be trusted. I'm trying to think of a good way to check this when there is a chain on the sprockets. I was just working on my Versys last night, trying to put an end to all the rattling inside the instrument cluster. I used the shrink-tubing-around-the-push-switches trick to stop the rattles at that end, but there is also a rattle behind the LCD, and I can find no way to open it up, although some wag on the forums at kawasakiversys.com claims he was able to get inside there and use superglue to stop it. Now today I need to do my first plug change, which is why I came here to review your video on that, but got sidetracked by your sprocket/chain misadventures.
Sorry! I'm always the same. Research always has to take twice as long because of the 'oh look, a squirrel' factor! I think you could get the string in there with the chain on. Just not so much room/easy to see. There is a laser alignment tool that does the similar job with the chain on, but costs €40 or so. I am relying on the fact that now i have marked the swing arm, i can always refer to those marks without needing to get the cotton reel out again!
You can do the same string trick, but feed the string in between the chain and the sprocket. It'll be 10 times fiddlier, but it's possible. Or you can get a laser alignment tool that magnetically sticks to the rear sprocket: amzn.to/2tVvUki
First of all, thank you for this series of videos, they're the best. I want to change the whole set for my versys, but don't know which relation is the best to have. I use it for everyday commute to work (I do take the highway but its not more than 40km there and back), and the occational trip on nice curvy costa brava roads. Which would you recommend? Thanks in advance Andy!
Cheers David. My pleasure! The way I had it was perfect for me. I did a lot of city commuting with a few miles of highway. But then in the twisties while touring it was at it's best. Better fuel economy, less high speed buzz and the Versys has plenty of torque to push the longer gearing. I'd have this same gearing again in a heartbeat.
You can buy a gadget called a speedo healer. I think Healtech make it. Or you can get really good at maths and constantly calculate the new speed in your head!
What year is your kwak? Oh I forgot. Great vid buddy. I have never changed my own chain and after watching the great chain trilogy, I don't think I ever will.
Haha! Don't be afraid! The swap on the Fazer took 1 hr and went smoother than clockwork (a fully stocked workshop helped!). The Kwak is an '06. Very first iteration of the Versys. I think technically it's an '07 but it was pre-registered or something. Who knows? !
I haven't got a fully stocked garage. Actually I no longer have a garage (I would put a sad face here but I cannot/refuse to use a emoji thingy). Used to have a garage, bikes and tools but the evil overlord made me sell the lot for a stupid deposit for a house. Now said house does not have a bloody garage. All I have is a cheap b&q plastic bin shed. Its a good job I love evil overlord.
Me neither now. Back in the UK I did all my fiddling at Dads gaff as after 25 yrs as a mechanic, he's got everything! Out here in DE I'm starting from scratch. I think we have similar overlords because apparently we need more space, so we have to move somewhere without a garage too. Hopefully not before summer though! Luckily I quite like my evil overlord too!
I got rid of all my bikes and I was looking at getting the Tracer in the new year. That plan has changed yet again. Due to other commitments I am having to scale down my ambitions. I am looking at a FZ1 Fazer 09 plate for £3890 with 10,000 miles. The only problem is that I have read in multiple reviews the power in the lower revs is pap. The other option is a Bandit 1250 or a Triumph Sprint 1050.
I actually had very much the same thought process! Seems a Fazer thou would be my easiest option to get more juice but i too have heard about the wafty low end. Apparently the injection bikes can be greatly improved with a power commander. Plug and play but pricey at around £300. I personally would go this route over a Bandit.
Quick question mate. You mentioned that the chain should be adjusted while on the side stand as that adds the weight to the rear wheel, doesn't the paddock stand do the same thing? Not adjusted my chain yet and manual says side stand too.
That's a very good point and technically there is probably more weight on there while on the paddock stand because none is going through the side stand. Hmmm. Well spotted!
+Andy Man Cam thanks, still learning all this stuff and just brought a paddock stand to allow me to adjust the chain. It's good to check these things with someone who knows his stuff 😀. Cheers matey.
Paddock stand makes everything so much easier. I just did it once the way Kawasaki recommend, then measured it on the paddock stand and used that measurement from then on. Of course, your chain is on the 'upward facing' side when on the side stand isn't it? Might be useful for inspection at least! Happy tinkering though mate.
When you're bike is on the side stand, it's leaning sideways. So one side us more 'up' than the other. My chain is on the left so is on the more 'down' side.
I know right! Even though i know it has stainless bolts now, I'm still a bit paranoid about the two-metal-corrosion issue! The tyre change can't come soon enough so that i can see that they're free again! !
Yeah. 'Shouldn't'!! The chain grease is on there now, but I'll be sticking some copper grease on there before spring! Luckily she's in the garage now, so shouldn't get too moist in the immediate future!
Just watching that gave me anxiety . What a total nightmare from beginning to end . Where the heck do you ride your bike in the sewers of London ? Anyway , thanks for the vid I got some good warnings from it .
Haha! It certainly looked like it!! It was a very stressful operation mate! I must admit that i was pretty close to just giving it all to a professional at one point!!
those marks are just for getting it semi close so when you put your chain on to start it isnt over kinked, you should NEVER use them as your definitive mark, there not only can be a bit off from one side to the other but also the axle blocks that the line is on that you match up with the swing arm marks has some play in it itself so remarking them is pointless as it can move a bit next time you loosen you axle... and aliening it without the chain on is not pointless but not exactly the greatest of methods. there is a tool that you clamp on the chain and sprocket and has a litle rod you line up with the chain. ill look it up and link it to you by the time you reply :) ......... another good method (as long as the threads of your adjuster nuts are the same pitch) is to put the adjusters all the way in and back them out the same amount a bit at a time.... and by gods clean your can!!!! how does your muffler not smoke with all that sludge built up on it?
We know that, but all the user manuals seem to indicate that these marks can be trusted! The poor unsuspecting public don't stand a chance! I agree that the play in the blocks is very present, but don't forget that the adjuster bolts push them back onto the axle. So as long as the axle is nipped, the whole assembly is under compression and the play is eliminated. Just as aligning the sprockets sans-chain makes perfect sense because between aligning them and sticking the chain on, everything was bolted up and they couldn't go anywhere! Sadly, as has always been the way in my motorcycling career, it's about achieving what i can with the funds available. I'm sure there are many tools out there that could make my chain-life balance a happier place. But unfortunately i was already on negative funds on this one! So for the fractions of a degree of accuracy offered per €€ spent, the cotton reel did a fine job this time round! When i get the cash for fancy tools, I'll be putting it towards a shaft drive! ! :D
Andy Man Cam oh trust me being someone who is disabled and without an income i know the world of lack of funds :) the tool a speak of is under $20 (or easily made with a clamp and straight rod mad from something like a long drill bit or harden shaft)
Andy Man Cam or a tank of fuel and a biscuit :) a home made one is free - $2-3 ish, just some people say my homemade tools are "ghetto" i say there old fashion :)
When you checked the chain slack, you were measuring from the bottom of the chain at the low point, and the top of the chain at the high point.. You should measure from the both bottoms or both tops, to get the most accurate reading. Funny video. Scrimping bastards haha
+sonofnothing I'm not saying you're wrong, and I'm not saying you're right. But you're wrong... ok just kidding. You could well be right, but if so i need to write a stern email to kawasaki's manual makers as the picture in the book clearly shows bottom at the bottom and top at the top. In either case i went for the outside of their recommendation as I'd rather it was slightly too loose than too tight. (That's what she said)
I wonder then why my Kawasaki manual shows a line at the bottom of both ends of the chain travel? either way, that would be the tru definition of the slack. It's really just logic. Page 120 here: www.kawasakiversys.com/versys-owners-manual.pdf
Either way, the slack in your chain @11:39 looks pretty good(about 25mm) It's recommended to check it at different spots, too, to look for any tight spots in the chain. I like your videos though, to the point without any bullshit or rambling about yourself. Subbed
+sonofnothing Well then i sit firmly corrected! No idea why I saw top to bottom in my minds eye. But in any case. Manual says 25-35mm 'bottom to bottom'. I did 40-45mm 'bottom to top'. Take away 15mm for the chain and we've got 25-35mm of slack. Potato potarto.
Cheers! I did already. Well except for the silencer. That thing looks like something even Ripley from Aliens wouldn't tackle! Just have to get a new one i guess...
Brilliant unlike most other youtube vids that just show everything as easy and problem free this really captures how most jobs actually go especially when your working on your own, loved that rear wheel install trying to hold the wheel up keep the spacers in place and push the axle in, real world.
That adjustment "tool" was a ingenious idea. Dirt cheap and really effective!
Sometimes the simplest (and cheapest) ideas are the best!
OMG to aline them using a string like that, freakinggg clever!!! that is now embedded in my mind..very well done, glad i found your channel.
Thanks Martin. Hope you enjoy the rest of the vids!
Have never changed any of these parts before, using this as reference. Thank you. ^^
Very grateful for your insight!
I just bought my V and the chain was toast. Fully 1 1/2 inches longer than the new chain. A couple of frozen links too. Also changed both sprockets and glad I did. The front looked fine on the bike (so almost left it on) but once it was in my hand then could see it was very worn.
The string method for alignment is genius! My swing arm tick marks are off by 3/16 inch.
It's unbelievable how much smoother the bike rides now.
Your doing a good work, AMC!
+Nait ramde That is a toasted chain! Its like a whole new bike after new chain and sprockets isn't it! Mine seemed to buzz less with the new drive system. And now with new tyres too its really come alive. I just wish that they cous always be new! Sadly i can't take full credit for the steering idea, although i saw it done around the tyres and decided that the sprockets made more sense! (Cue the arguments to the contrary! 😅) .
Glad to hear that your V is finally running at its best. Enjoy!
Scrap what i said in the other video the NOTCHES they defo dont line up and therfore bent my rear sprocket
Good job, Andy. You persevered and got there in the end. Congratulations!
Thanks John. There were some swear words thrown about over this one!
Good job...That bling chain does distract from the filth. lol
And to think, I considered saving $15 and getting the all black one! Glad i didn't. SHINY!
Great video! Interesting to watch. :)
It helps to take that bolt out from time to time, clean the threads and grease it in. That will make it less likely to get stuck. :)
+KTM NIKKO Thanks mate. I couldn't agree more. Wish I'd kept on top of maintenance a bit better here.
Excellent tip on chain alignment 👍
My pleasure! Wish i remembered where i saw it first!
Great trilogy of videos, thanks. Your editing captured the frustration of a broken bolt very realistically!!
On my KTM 1290, the wheel is a 'force fit' into the swingarm, so once the disc is lined up in the caliper, you can yank it up and it stays pretty much in the right position to slide the axel through - it's really handy because the big wheel with 170 tyre is quite heavy.
I can recommend the pro-oiler with GPS...not cheap, but not expensive compared to replacing chain & sprocket. Once calibrated properly, which is pretty easy from the provided tables, it oils the chain via electronic pulsed pump in precise metered doses according to GPS calculated distance & wheel revolutions (ie unlike the cheaper gravity feed). It's kept the chain in great condition, and really clean compared to the usual chain lubes. Some people get 50,000+ from their chains with these, and they rarely need thorough cleaning (just an idea if you stay with a chain drive for a while).
+Ronan Rogers Thanks Ronan! That setup on the KTM sounds way better! And i love the idea of flawless chain oiling. I'd love to be jumping to shaft drive asap, but i don't think it'll be for a while yet!!
so glad I don't have this faff anymore! shaft drive so much easier, don't wanna go back to chain if I can help it but there isn't a massive choice of shafties being made right now.
You did great. I am glad that I have a drive-shaft type motorcycle. (Goldwing). Your patients and hard work won the day. Thanks for the Video. I don't cuss too much but I might have said a choice word about the time that bold twisted off. Keep having fun on your motorcycle.
+Idaho Rider Thanks IR. I would LOVE to have a shaft drive. Shame there aren't too many around the 750cc mark any more. It's all about cheap nowadays unfortunately. I'm impressed with myself here. I didn't cut out any cussing, so what you heard is what I said!
+Andy Man Cam Great restraint. lol
Wow, I'm four years late to the party. Great video with the stiff upper lip and all. Very patient. I saw the comment about the success of the taller gearing...that's what I'm looking for also.
Welcome aboard! Better late than never mate! The taller gearing was a real winner. The gears suddenly made more sense and the worst buzz was shifted out of the way!
Hi Andy, I have 2018 Versys 650, and I use also this notches for lining rear and fron sprocket after chain adjustment. But i see that they are not very accurate.
This how you use string to lining up, I think that you can use same methond with chain on sprocket.
Just need to check is it rear sprocket in middle on inside chain.
Make couple turning with rear tire on paddock stands, and check is it again rear sprocket in middle on inside chain.
I hope that you understand what I am talking.
What is you answer, will that work? I don't see reason why that will not work.
Cheers Mali. Sure you can. It was just considerably easier without the chain in the way!
Well done Andy. Nice work in difficult circumstances!
I did my Blackbird chain and sprockets a few months ago and my DID didn't come with a 3 finger spacer either. They must be cutting back :(
Also I noticed +Coldfin9er comment about flare dimension which I'll look into too as that was a stressful part of the fit. Also a vernier calliper might be a good addition to my toolkit.
Great vids. Cheers.
Cheers Al. Yeah what's that about. I guess DID can't lose. They save money on the part. And if you get it wrong then they sell you a new chain! Buggers! I've used my calipers about a squillion times. Thoroughly useful bit of kit. I had a digital set too but broke it. Can always rely on the good old analog though!
Brilliant vid.You stayed cool under pressure. I couldn't do that. Respect AMC.RSMF
Thanks RG. I'm glad it came across that way! There were a few tense moments there! But you get things fixed quicker with a level head. Or you realise sooner that there's no point panicking because it's jiggered and you may as well just enjoy a beer!
I was nervous for Your swing arm with the
Re threading, but it worked a treat
You and me both mate! I hate imaginings of me scouring ebay for the rest of my days in search of a swingarm i could afford!
Nice one Andy, well done mate, ya got there in the end, mines belt drive thank god I don't have to faff around like this anymore, lol, RSM8.
Ahhh, the cleanliness and ease of a belt (that's what she said). I envy you mate! One day...
There is a flare dimension the rivets need to pressed to, details are on the DID website (0.224" to 0.236" for a 530 ZVMX for example) measure the rivet head with your callipers :)
That's a great little detail to know! I wonder if i missed it in my chain pack or if it's another hidden gem for the more persistent diy mechanics! I'll be checking that asap. Cheers!
+Andy Man Cam , don't know if you obtained the info yet, but just in case, the pin's outside diameter flare spec is 5.4 - 5.8 mm. This is per the service manual for my 2015 Versys 650. Thanks for your vids. Very useful stuff for us V riders over here in the states 👍😉
I hated doing this so much I ended up getting one of those little Profi laser dot things. You place it on the sprocket and walk the dot up and down the chain links. It still makes some assumptions (like that your sprocket isn't warped...) but it's close enough for me. The hashmarks on my bike aren't actually too bad.
The other thing that absolutely infuriates me is my chain is apparently 'high carbon' which means that if it even sees a rain cloud, it gets spots of rust. They come off easily but it looks unsightly. I _hate_ chain maintenance. Easily the worst thing about owning a bike.
You're inspirational. At some point in your life you must have read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Mechanics" What patience, of which the dictionary defines as "the state of endurance under difficult circumstances" I would have been inventing new swear words well into that experience.
+Ken Palmateer Thank you kindly Ken. I've had my years of exploding angrily when things go wrong! Now I know that I get to the celebratory beer at the end much faster if I just figure it out and get on with it! That's not to say I wasn't sweating swear words out of my furrowed brow!
Hooray, it's all good in the end eh? On my GPZ900 there is an aluminium plate over the swinging arm that unbolts,so no split links! Why don't all bikes get designed like this eh?😎
+ninjanelly350 A very valid question. I bet I know the answer too. MONEY!! It makes such sense, but I bet it costs too much. Same with mid sized shaft drives and single sided swing arms! Grrrr!
Job well done !!!
Frightening how far off the manufacturing marks are ....
Thanks! Yeah i know! I didn't believe it at first, but a bit if time on Google quickly revealed that it's way more common than you think! Nobody's perfect i guess! !
For the chain alignment, I give the wheel a spin and see how it turns. If it runs and runs it is straight, stands to reason.
I suppose so! You‘d have to give it a helluva spin to get a full rotation though!! 😅
@@AndyManCam oh haha always do it on a rear stand I mean
😂👍🏻
There is a special metal rod that clamps to the sprocket to align chain. Cost about $15 .
The piece of cotton was about 100th that price! 😁
Damn. This is discouraging news that the wheel alignment marks can't be trusted. I'm trying to think of a good way to check this when there is a chain on the sprockets. I was just working on my Versys last night, trying to put an end to all the rattling inside the instrument cluster. I used the shrink-tubing-around-the-push-switches trick to stop the rattles at that end, but there is also a rattle behind the LCD, and I can find no way to open it up, although some wag on the forums at kawasakiversys.com claims he was able to get inside there and use superglue to stop it. Now today I need to do my first plug change, which is why I came here to review your video on that, but got sidetracked by your sprocket/chain misadventures.
Sorry! I'm always the same. Research always has to take twice as long because of the 'oh look, a squirrel' factor! I think you could get the string in there with the chain on. Just not so much room/easy to see. There is a laser alignment tool that does the similar job with the chain on, but costs €40 or so. I am relying on the fact that now i have marked the swing arm, i can always refer to those marks without needing to get the cotton reel out again!
did you try measuring from swing arm center, to each side of bike.?
is there any way that i can aline the chain (front and rear sproket) without removing the chain?
You can do the same string trick, but feed the string in between the chain and the sprocket. It'll be 10 times fiddlier, but it's possible. Or you can get a laser alignment tool that magnetically sticks to the rear sprocket: amzn.to/2tVvUki
First of all, thank you for this series of videos, they're the best. I want to change the whole set for my versys, but don't know which relation is the best to have. I use it for everyday commute to work (I do take the highway but its not more than 40km there and back), and the occational trip on nice curvy costa brava roads. Which would you recommend? Thanks in advance Andy!
Cheers David. My pleasure! The way I had it was perfect for me. I did a lot of city commuting with a few miles of highway. But then in the twisties while touring it was at it's best. Better fuel economy, less high speed buzz and the Versys has plenty of torque to push the longer gearing. I'd have this same gearing again in a heartbeat.
Andy Man Cam thanks for that Andy, can you tell me which one it was?
Sorry, sure! It was 15/43. with 2 less links in the chain, if i remember correctly.
Quick question, I just put a 13 T front sproket on my 08 versys and I notice Im getting false speed readings, how can I correct this?
You can buy a gadget called a speedo healer. I think Healtech make it. Or you can get really good at maths and constantly calculate the new speed in your head!
What year is your kwak? Oh I forgot. Great vid buddy. I have never changed my own chain and after watching the great chain trilogy, I don't think I ever will.
Haha! Don't be afraid! The swap on the Fazer took 1 hr and went smoother than clockwork (a fully stocked workshop helped!). The Kwak is an '06. Very first iteration of the Versys. I think technically it's an '07 but it was pre-registered or something. Who knows? !
I haven't got a fully stocked garage. Actually I no longer have a garage (I would put a sad face here but I cannot/refuse to use a emoji thingy). Used to have a garage, bikes and tools but the evil overlord made me sell the lot for a stupid deposit for a house. Now said house does not have a bloody garage. All I have is a cheap b&q plastic bin shed. Its a good job I love evil overlord.
Me neither now. Back in the UK I did all my fiddling at Dads gaff as after 25 yrs as a mechanic, he's got everything! Out here in DE I'm starting from scratch. I think we have similar overlords because apparently we need more space, so we have to move somewhere without a garage too. Hopefully not before summer though! Luckily I quite like my evil overlord too!
I got rid of all my bikes and I was looking at getting the Tracer in the new year. That plan has changed yet again. Due to other commitments I am having to scale down my ambitions. I am looking at a FZ1 Fazer 09 plate for £3890 with 10,000 miles. The only problem is that I have read in multiple reviews the power in the lower revs is pap. The other option is a Bandit 1250 or a Triumph Sprint 1050.
I actually had very much the same thought process! Seems a Fazer thou would be my easiest option to get more juice but i too have heard about the wafty low end. Apparently the injection bikes can be greatly improved with a power commander. Plug and play but pricey at around £300. I personally would go this route over a Bandit.
Quick question mate. You mentioned that the chain should be adjusted while on the side stand as that adds the weight to the rear wheel, doesn't the paddock stand do the same thing? Not adjusted my chain yet and manual says side stand too.
That's a very good point and technically there is probably more weight on there while on the paddock stand because none is going through the side stand. Hmmm. Well spotted!
+Andy Man Cam thanks, still learning all this stuff and just brought a paddock stand to allow me to adjust the chain. It's good to check these things with someone who knows his stuff 😀. Cheers matey.
Paddock stand makes everything so much easier. I just did it once the way Kawasaki recommend, then measured it on the paddock stand and used that measurement from then on. Of course, your chain is on the 'upward facing' side when on the side stand isn't it? Might be useful for inspection at least! Happy tinkering though mate.
+Andy Man Cam upward facing side?
When you're bike is on the side stand, it's leaning sideways. So one side us more 'up' than the other. My chain is on the left so is on the more 'down' side.
I make this suggestion with utmost respect 'cause I really like your videos............Shaftdrive. Lol !
Haha! Of course you can! But you're singing to the choir dear boy! I'd have a shaft drive tomorrow if i could! :)
What an absolute faff that was, but at least it's now sorted :-)
I know right! Even though i know it has stainless bolts now, I'm still a bit paranoid about the two-metal-corrosion issue! The tyre change can't come soon enough so that i can see that they're free again! !
Andy Man Cam How about if you put some anti-seize on the thread? That way it shouldn't happen (touches wood)...
Yeah. 'Shouldn't'!! The chain grease is on there now, but I'll be sticking some copper grease on there before spring! Luckily she's in the garage now, so shouldn't get too moist in the immediate future!
Just watching that gave me anxiety . What a total nightmare from beginning to end . Where the heck do you ride your bike in the sewers of London ? Anyway , thanks for the vid I got some good warnings from it .
Haha! It certainly looked like it!! It was a very stressful operation mate! I must admit that i was pretty close to just giving it all to a professional at one point!!
those marks are just for getting it semi close so when you put your chain on to start it isnt over kinked, you should NEVER use them as your definitive mark, there not only can be a bit off from one side to the other but also the axle blocks that the line is on that you match up with the swing arm marks has some play in it itself so remarking them is pointless as it can move a bit next time you loosen you axle... and aliening it without the chain on is not pointless but not exactly the greatest of methods. there is a tool that you clamp on the chain and sprocket and has a litle rod you line up with the chain. ill look it up and link it to you by the time you reply :) ......... another good method (as long as the threads of your adjuster nuts are the same pitch) is to put the adjusters all the way in and back them out the same amount a bit at a time.... and by gods clean your can!!!! how does your muffler not smoke with all that sludge built up on it?
We know that, but all the user manuals seem to indicate that these marks can be trusted! The poor unsuspecting public don't stand a chance! I agree that the play in the blocks is very present, but don't forget that the adjuster bolts push them back onto the axle. So as long as the axle is nipped, the whole assembly is under compression and the play is eliminated. Just as aligning the sprockets sans-chain makes perfect sense because between aligning them and sticking the chain on, everything was bolted up and they couldn't go anywhere! Sadly, as has always been the way in my motorcycling career, it's about achieving what i can with the funds available. I'm sure there are many tools out there that could make my chain-life balance a happier place. But unfortunately i was already on negative funds on this one! So for the fractions of a degree of accuracy offered per €€ spent, the cotton reel did a fine job this time round! When i get the cash for fancy tools, I'll be putting it towards a shaft drive! ! :D
Andy Man Cam
oh trust me being someone who is disabled and without an income i know the world of lack of funds :) the tool a speak of is under $20 (or easily made with a clamp and straight rod mad from something like a long drill bit or harden shaft)
That is pretty cheap! :D but of course $20 is practically the sprocket paid for! 👍👍
Andy Man Cam
or a tank of fuel and a biscuit :) a home made one is free - $2-3 ish, just some people say my homemade tools are "ghetto" i say there old fashion :)
Biscuits always win! I'd call them 'custom'! Always a fan of making your own!
Help, I'm addicted!
Then my work here is done! Just need to squeeze the supply and up the demand! Mwah ha ha haaaa!
Lovely jubly. Job's a good'n.
+Triumf Ant Eventually! :D
Esjot 520 114?, como es?
Chain and sprockets. Esjot is the brand 114 of the number of links in the chain.
@@AndyManCam esjot vs did?
Hard to say TBH. I found them both good.
When you checked the chain slack, you were measuring from the bottom of the chain at the low point, and the top of the chain at the high point.. You should measure from the both bottoms or both tops, to get the most accurate reading. Funny video. Scrimping bastards haha
+sonofnothing I'm not saying you're wrong, and I'm not saying you're right. But you're wrong... ok just kidding. You could well be right, but if so i need to write a stern email to kawasaki's manual makers as the picture in the book clearly shows bottom at the bottom and top at the top. In either case i went for the outside of their recommendation as I'd rather it was slightly too loose than too tight. (That's what she said)
I wonder then why my Kawasaki manual shows a line at the bottom of both ends of the chain travel? either way, that would be the tru definition of the slack. It's really just logic.
Page 120 here:
www.kawasakiversys.com/versys-owners-manual.pdf
I drew up a little diagram. Probably hard to follow, and definitely amazing art.
imgur.com/aHatq40
Either way, the slack in your chain @11:39 looks pretty good(about 25mm) It's recommended to check it at different spots, too, to look for any tight spots in the chain.
I like your videos though, to the point without any bullshit or rambling about yourself. Subbed
+sonofnothing Well then i sit firmly corrected! No idea why I saw top to bottom in my minds eye. But in any case. Manual says 25-35mm 'bottom to bottom'. I did 40-45mm 'bottom to top'. Take away 15mm for the chain and we've got 25-35mm of slack. Potato potarto.
You got there in the end. Hopefully a while before you have to faff around with this again ;o)
Amen to that! As i said, they'll be getting a solid greasing when the rear tyre gets switched!
Badger shit 🤣 lmao
Who knows what wonders we pick up on our travels! 😂
Great video. Please for the love of badger shit wash your Versys!
Cheers! I did already. Well except for the silencer. That thing looks like something even Ripley from Aliens wouldn't tackle! Just have to get a new one i guess...