Wow! Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate the feedback. It has been a real pleasure to receive comments from folks. I never would have dreamed this video would be so watched!
Thank you Chris. Greatly appreciate you sharing this build. Exactly what I hoped to find this morning and you've made my day. The only thing I'll do differently is mortise the support bracing into the main post and use Ipe for the post and bracing. Your attention to detail is evident and the results show. BEAUTIFUL!!
Thanks for the kind words. Mortise and tenon is next level skills!! Best of luck on your build. Let me know how it turns out. Better yet, make a video and post it!
Very nice addition to the outdoor kitchen. I was wondering if you are able to go a little larger than the 8 foot section with this kind of design, say, 10 or 12 foot?
Thanks for the kind words! If understand your question correctly, you are asking if it is possible to build a deeper roof than the 8’ I used. I think it is absolutely possible. I recommend that you keep the roof overhang on the high side no more than two thirds of the total roof depth. Also I recommend you increase your columns from 6x6 to 8x8. That will give you more lateral stability for the increased surface area and wind load of the larger roof. As always you should consult an engineer to ensure safety.
Brian, I used a nice bead of silicone caulk in the joint where the beam meets the facia to divert the water. The slope is pretty aggressive so water moves quick over the stained cedar. On the low side I added a l shape piece of flashing about 4 inches wider than the beam on each side to divert the run off from the roof. I don’t have pine trees just some live oaks so the leaf load is low. The beam sticking out is just for looks so if you wanted you could eliminate that from your design. I just like the way it makes the structure look.
I had lots of questions but was able to get most answers buy going through the comments. Easy one. How wide , or what is the distance between the 6x6x16 post? I have decided to do this. Just keep rewatching and learning
Great work on this. Was planning on doing something similar but instead of adding a roof, I was gonna let some vines grow on it. Do you think it can handle the weigt of a fully grown vine on the cantilever?
If it can handle a roof and Cedar tongue and groove ceiling I would feel confident that it could support the vines. But if you have concerns you can always consult an engineer. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out!
Great build! I noticed the 4 cantilevered beams were place above the support beam that connects the 2 posts, instead of below the 4x6 support beam. Was your decision based on structural reasons or that worked best for the design?
That’s a great observation. I did this to keep lateral support beam between the columns below the roof structure for simplicity. Also, because of the stone structure right below I like the idea of having that beam close to the top of the stone just in case of really strong wind gusts. My thought was that it may provide just a little support in extreme weather.
Wow, that turned out really well. I am thinking of something similar for my backyard. Do you have drawings of this so I can get an idea of what it takes? Also, where are you located? I am concerned in Michigan about the snow load but at 5' down and a cantilever I am hoping it is solid enough.
Thank you Sir! Unfortunately, I don’t have drawings anymore. The sketch in the video is what I used mostly. I had some measurements once but those are long gone. We are located in Austin, Tx so no snow load. Just the occasional thunderstorms and wind gusts. You could increase the slope of the roof to shed snow quicker. The strength of the structure comes from the column depth in the ground and the out riggers. The plywood also provides added lateral stability. It’s really sturdy so minus a hurricane I would feel pretty good about just about anywhere.
Absolutely! It’s extremely solid. Just get those posts 5’ down and you will have no problems. If you’re worried you could add 45 degree angle braces to the cross beam to give you more stability
Hi Chris, this looks awesome, great job. Do you by any chance have and can share the design specs for this? I would love to build something like this in my back yard. Thanks in Advance!
I’m sorry to say that I don’t. The only thing I used was the section sketch that is in the video. I did do some research to verify The materials used would meet the spans between the 6x6 posts. Those posts are about 10’ apart and the 2x6x16s overhang the outside of the beams about 3’. The roof is 8x16. 4 sheets of plywood on 2x6x16 rafters and 2 2x6x8 rim joists. The rest is covered in the video. Look at the angles on my sketch and you should be able to figure it out. Best of luck with your build. Let me know if you have any questions and I will help anyway I can.
Thanks Glen. It’s been a while and material costs have gone up and down since I built this. But using cedar structure and facia, with cedar tongue and grove ceiling with treated joists OSB roof with metal panels and all hardware I think I spent around 4k on materials. Maybe a little more or less.
Awesome build and tutorial. I am making a similar project, smaller (7'x8') with the beam in the center of the wall instead of at the back. How did you figure out how deep the posts needed to be burried? How did you get the dirt out of the bottom of the hole, my arm is not that long? :)
That’s for the comments! The column depth is important and there are specific math formulas that you can use but in general the deeper post goes down the more lateral stability it creates. I did some research and determined that 5’ depth would be sufficient for my 6’ front side overhang with a 2’ back side over hang. The 17 degree angle of the roof also shifts the center of gravity back towards the post. The depth of the column footing required to support a cantilevered beam depends on various factors, including the type of soil, the weight and dimensions of the beam, and the specific load and structural requirements. If you are building a heavy structure you should consult a structural engineer or a qualified professional to determine the appropriate footing depth for your specific situation. They will consider all relevant factors to ensure the safe and stable support of the cantilevered beam. As far as getting the dirt out of the hole, I actually rented a commercial grade shop vac from Home Depot. I chipped away with the dig bar and vacuumed out the loose dirt. It worked great for me because the soil in my area is dry and rock free.
No brackets on the posts and footing. The cantilever design requires the post to be sunk into the ground and secured with concrete to provide lateral stability to the structure. The friction of the ground on the posts actually holds structure in place.
Did not use the gable ends. Just have about an 1.5 inch overhang. On the high edge I capped it with an aluminum angle that I screwed into the top ridges of the metal roof and to the facia board.
I used an angle that was like 5” x 3” L shape. It was light gauge like the drip edge. Got it at lowes. I ended up painting the drip edge and the underside of the metal over hangs with the same dark stain as the facia board. It looks clean
Awesome. Thank you for the information. Mine is an “L” shaped roof with a 3 post cantilever. Been a challenge as I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination. Appreciate your expertise.
Looks great. I'm planning something similar. Is it pretty sturdy? How does it hold up during high winds? Is there a lot of movement on the posts? Any concern with them breaking.
It’s solid. The plywood add a lot of stability. No noticeable movement in high winds. With the plywood I was able to stand on the roof on the high edge with no issues. Lateral strength comes from the 45degree angle braces and the 6x6 column Burried 5’ deep with 27 80 pound bags of concrete anchoring down.
Are the 4 beams you have sandwiching the 6x6's 2x10's? or 2x8's? I think you said 2x10 then showed a 2x8 cedar screen shot from Lowes. But anyway great job this looks awesome. About to build one myself
Yeah. Good catch they are 2x8x10. I realized I said that after I posted the video and was too lazy to fix it. lol. You are the first person to catch that so take that as a complement that you were paying attention! Best of luck with your build. Let me know how it turns out. Better yet video it and post it!
Thanks! I watched it quite a few times lol. I just finished mine this weekend, was for a customer and came out great. Went with an open design and used a nice material for the underside of the roof. I wish I was able to post pictures here! But yeah maybe a video one day. But thanks again for posting really enjoyed this
@@danialhayat4708 That looks amazing! It looks well built and extremely sturdy! It also is very pleasing estheticly. Very nice proportions and scale. I hope you make millions on these!
I'm starting mine soon and was basing it off the same post you did. My biggest issue is the weight pulling down on the cantilever but i like your idea on the 2x8x10's rather than solid to save weight. Any thoughts on have making them 2x8x12 for some additional coverage? Trying to create some shade over an outdoor dinning table so the more overhang the better.
I used the 2x8x10s because I have one foot of the beam extended out on each side. This is decorative but I kept my roof 8x16 so it would take 4 sheets of 4x8 plywood. I also used a 1/3 2/3 rule to keep the weight of the over hang side manageable. Meaning keep 1/3 of the beam on the down hill side of the column and no more than 2/3 of it on the up hill side. Hope this helps!
Bill. Thanks for the question. The cantilever design gets its lateral stability from the depth of the column. That’s why it’s good to use cedar as well so you can be sure the posts will stay strong and last for your lifetime!
Column depth is what provides lateral stability to cantilevered structures. When you dig the post holes you should bell out the bottom for additional friction on the column base. 5’ depth has provided the stability and strength I wanted and I have had no issues in high wind. If you have concerns you can always consult a structural engineer to confirm the column depth for your soil and weather zone.
Hi Chris. This thing is gorgeous. One question on the beams that stick out in the front. Did you do any flashing or anything where they meet up with the roof? That seems like it would track water there and then leak into the covered part.
Thanks for the kind words. I used a healthy application of silicone sealant to keep the water out. It has worked great. Just used a dark brown sealant with a nice slope on it to Channel the water off the sides and stained over it.
Hopefully. The column extending deep into the ground is what allows you to do a cantilever. The friction and lateral forces from the buried column provide the lateral stability required to support the overhang. That’s why I had to go down 5’. I Also used cedar with asphalt sealant and prepared the post holes to maximize drainage to extend the life of the structure. I am confident that it will last for my lifetime.
Thanks!! The beams are about 11’6 apart. 2x6s can span about 12’ between beams. The cantilever beam has the outrigger supports that are at 90 degrees on the back side and 45 degrees on the middle side. I have the column at about 1/3 on the outside and 2/3 on the inside. With the 5’ column depth in the ground it is solid as a rock!
What I have in mind is a cantilevered portico/carport roof wider/deeper than the width of a car with its doors open and longer than standard car length. I'm no builder so apologize for any confusingly incorrect terminology.....I visualize a light-weight cantilevered roof attached to a header-stringer spanning 20 feet or so that is supported by 2-3 posts bolted to the facade of the house instead of buried into the ground. Does this seem feasible to you or any of your viewers?
@@pig-a-dillyman2676 wow! Sounds pretty awesome! I would recommend looking around for similar designs on the web and using a design that works for your application. Metal structure may be more appropriate for your plan. 20’ spans with wood are going to get pricey and require engineered beams. Maybe someone else reading this will have some thoughts to add here. Let me know what you decide on and thanks for your comments!
Thanks for watching and the comments. To answer your question, when working with drip edge it is extremely tempting to overlap the pieces instead of cutting them to butt up nicely end to end. I did this and thought “ehh, who’s gonna notice?” It causes the light guage metal to ripple and it really catches the sunlight. So I saved a few minutes upfront by overlapping them, only to replace that time saved with having to stare at this minor imperfection while I’m having a beverage. Other than that, I’m very pleased with it!
@@chriswinnek7200 yes Chris... I am hoping to have the same...it's the most beautiful that I have ever found on the net... thanks for sharing with the world...
Hello Chris, this turned out great. what determines how far out the cover can extend? thinking about building a larger one. about 20' wide x 12' overhang length. any insights?
I’m not an engineer so I would not be able to provide any specific numbers on how to scale up. The lateral stability of a cantilever design comes from Column depth and thickness. For that size I would use 8”x8” cedar post and 2x12 cedar beams. Keep the Columns as short as possible above grade. The taller your height the deeper the column footing needs to go. 2x6 rafters will work fine for a 20’ if your columns are about 12 ft apart. The beams should be about 1/3 on one side of the column and 2/3 overhang side so your support bracing may need to be adjusted. 12’ is a pretty significant over hang compared to my design which is about 6’. When in doubt consult a structural engineer!
I've watch this video like 10 times over the past year or so... im finally building mine this month. Thanks for the ideas
Wow! I’m So glad it helped! Please let me know how your project turns out!
How did your project turn out?
Well Done. Well Explained. Couldnt be more specific! Good Job
@@HonestbudSadegh thanks for the watch and positive feedback!
One of the best looking 2 post pergola I've seen! Nice work!
Wow! Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate the feedback. It has been a real pleasure to receive comments from folks. I never would have dreamed this video would be so watched!
Thank you Chris. Greatly appreciate you sharing this build. Exactly what I hoped to find this morning and you've made my day. The only thing I'll do differently is mortise the support bracing into the main post and use Ipe for the post and bracing. Your attention to detail is evident and the results show. BEAUTIFUL!!
Thanks for the kind words. Mortise and tenon is next level skills!! Best of luck on your build. Let me know how it turns out. Better yet, make a video and post it!
Great build! Really adds to the amazing look of your outdoor space.
Thanks for the kind words Daniel! Thanks for watching!
Really great video, thank you for posting all of the materials, that was incredibly helpful
Thanks! I’m glad it helped!
Professional result. Great job!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m glad you liked it!
Graph paper and section views?!!!! That is how its done right there! Looks awesome man!
Thanks brother! Lol.
Thanks for watching!! Let me know if this video was helpful or you have any questions!
That came out really nice,like that nature l look.good job
Thanks for the kind words!
Very nice addition to the outdoor kitchen. I was wondering if you are able to go a little larger than the 8 foot section with this kind of design, say, 10 or 12 foot?
Thanks for the kind words! If understand your question correctly, you are asking if it is possible to build a deeper roof than the 8’ I used. I think it is absolutely possible. I recommend that you keep the roof overhang on the high side no more than two thirds of the total roof depth. Also I recommend you increase your columns from 6x6 to 8x8. That will give you more lateral stability for the increased surface area and wind load of the larger roof. As always you should consult an engineer to ensure safety.
Very nice, thanks for sharing, I really enjoy your video!!!!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
Great job!👍I am planning something similar, but a smaller version. Liked your design and your tutorial best. Thanks for putting this up!
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad it helped.
Looks awesome 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for watching and for the kind words!
curious how you did the top of the cantilevered section that is exposed to weather. I picture rain, needles, etc gathering at the joint with joists
Brian, I used a nice bead of silicone caulk in the joint where the beam meets the facia to divert the water. The slope is pretty aggressive so water moves quick over the stained cedar. On the low side I added a l shape piece of flashing about 4 inches wider than the beam on each side to divert the run off from the roof. I don’t have pine trees just some live oaks so the leaf load is low. The beam sticking out is just for looks so if you wanted you could eliminate that from your design. I just like the way it makes the structure look.
I had lots of questions but was able to get most answers buy going through the comments. Easy one. How wide , or what is the distance between the 6x6x16 post? I have decided to do this. Just keep rewatching and learning
@@gsmoneygsmoney1479 my posts are about 9’-6” apart.
phenomenal tutorial. way to go man!
Thanks for the positive vibes!!
Great work on this. Was planning on doing something similar but instead of adding a roof, I was gonna let some vines grow on it. Do you think it can handle the weigt of a fully grown vine on the cantilever?
If it can handle a roof and Cedar tongue and groove ceiling I would feel confident that it could support the vines. But if you have concerns you can always consult an engineer. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out!
Great build! I noticed the 4 cantilevered beams were place above the support beam that connects the 2 posts, instead of below the 4x6 support beam. Was your decision based on structural reasons or that worked best for the design?
That’s a great observation. I did this to keep lateral support beam between the columns below the roof structure for simplicity. Also, because of the stone structure right below I like the idea of having that beam close to the top of the stone just in case of really strong wind gusts. My thought was that it may provide just a little support in extreme weather.
Wow, that turned out really well. I am thinking of something similar for my backyard. Do you have drawings of this so I can get an idea of what it takes? Also, where are you located? I am concerned in Michigan about the snow load but at 5' down and a cantilever I am hoping it is solid enough.
Thank you Sir! Unfortunately, I don’t have drawings anymore. The sketch in the video is what I used mostly. I had some measurements once but those are long gone. We are located in Austin, Tx so no snow load. Just the occasional thunderstorms and wind gusts. You could increase the slope of the roof to shed snow quicker. The strength of the structure comes from the column depth in the ground and the out riggers. The plywood also provides added lateral stability. It’s really sturdy so minus a hurricane I would feel pretty good about just about anywhere.
that is sweet. don't think it would fly in hurricane country...well actually it would probably literally fly
It’s pretty stout. We get some busts but I have no idea how it would do I a cat 3.
Beautiful!
Thanks for the kind words!
Amazing work and very well explained video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for the kind remarks!
Looks great! Do you think the 4x6 cross beam would be sturdy enoungh to hang a swinging day bed?
Absolutely! It’s extremely solid. Just get those posts 5’ down and you will have no problems. If you’re worried you could add 45 degree angle braces to the cross beam to give you more stability
Hi Chris, this looks awesome, great job. Do you by any chance have and can share the design specs for this? I would love to build something like this in my back yard. Thanks in Advance!
I’m sorry to say that I don’t. The only thing I used was the section sketch that is in the video. I did do some research to verify The materials used would meet the spans between the 6x6 posts. Those posts are about 10’ apart and the 2x6x16s overhang the outside of the beams about 3’. The roof is 8x16. 4 sheets of plywood on 2x6x16 rafters and 2 2x6x8 rim joists. The rest is covered in the video. Look at the angles on my sketch and you should be able to figure it out. Best of luck with your build. Let me know if you have any questions and I will help anyway I can.
Thank you Chris. Starting the work this weekend. Will let you know how it will turn out.
Great work! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Absolutely amazing. I'm looking to do the same exact thing. Any rough estimate on total cost of materials?
Thanks Glen. It’s been a while and material costs have gone up and down since I built this. But using cedar structure and facia, with cedar tongue and grove ceiling with treated joists OSB roof with metal panels and all hardware I think I spent around 4k on materials. Maybe a little more or less.
Awesome build and tutorial. I am making a similar project, smaller (7'x8') with the beam in the center of the wall instead of at the back. How did you figure out how deep the posts needed to be burried? How did you get the dirt out of the bottom of the hole, my arm is not that long? :)
That’s for the comments! The column depth is important and there are specific math formulas that you can use but in general the deeper post goes down the more lateral stability it creates. I did some research and determined that 5’ depth would be sufficient for my 6’ front side overhang with a 2’ back side over hang. The 17 degree angle of the roof also shifts the center of gravity back towards the post. The depth of the column footing required to support a cantilevered beam depends on various factors, including the type of soil, the weight and dimensions of the beam, and the specific load and structural requirements. If you are building a heavy structure you should consult a structural engineer or a qualified professional to determine the appropriate footing depth for your specific situation. They will consider all relevant factors to ensure the safe and stable support of the cantilevered beam. As far as getting the dirt out of the hole, I actually rented a commercial grade shop vac from Home Depot. I chipped away with the dig bar and vacuumed out the loose dirt. It worked great for me because the soil in my area is dry and rock free.
Great video and awesome work
Thanks for watching and for the kind words!
Nice work!
Thanks for watching and the kind remarks!
Very cool…what did you use for the “brackets” at the bottom of your piers at the concrete
No brackets on the posts and footing. The cantilever design requires the post to be sunk into the ground and secured with concrete to provide lateral stability to the structure. The friction of the ground on the posts actually holds structure in place.
Fantastic job! What are the measures of the outdoor bar? I would like to replicate the whole project, including the bar.
Oh man. I built that bar about 8 years ago I do t have the dimensions anymore man. But it is about 12 wide and top of the tv part is 8 above the patio
I’m building a similar structure. Did you add gable ends over the ends of the roof, and what did you cap the upper end of the roof with?
Did not use the gable ends. Just have about an 1.5 inch overhang. On the high edge I capped it with an aluminum angle that I screwed into the top ridges of the metal roof and to the facia board.
I used an angle that was like 5” x 3” L shape. It was light gauge like the drip edge. Got it at lowes. I ended up painting the drip edge and the underside of the metal over hangs with the same dark stain as the facia board. It looks clean
Awesome. Thank you for the information. Mine is an “L” shaped roof with a 3 post cantilever. Been a challenge as I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination. Appreciate your expertise.
Looks great. I'm planning something similar. Is it pretty sturdy? How does it hold up during high winds? Is there a lot of movement on the posts? Any concern with them breaking.
It’s solid. The plywood add a lot of stability. No noticeable movement in high winds. With the plywood I was able to stand on the roof on the high edge with no issues. Lateral strength comes from the 45degree angle braces and the 6x6 column Burried 5’ deep with 27 80 pound bags of concrete anchoring down.
Are the 4 beams you have sandwiching the 6x6's 2x10's? or 2x8's? I think you said 2x10 then showed a 2x8 cedar screen shot from Lowes. But anyway great job this looks awesome. About to build one myself
Yeah. Good catch they are 2x8x10. I realized I said that after I posted the video and was too lazy to fix it. lol. You are the first person to catch that so take that as a complement that you were paying attention! Best of luck with your build. Let me know how it turns out. Better yet video it and post it!
Thanks! I watched it quite a few times lol. I just finished mine this weekend, was for a customer and came out great. Went with an open design and used a nice material for the underside of the roof. I wish I was able to post pictures here! But yeah maybe a video one day. But thanks again for posting really enjoyed this
@@danialhayat4708 That looks amazing! It looks well built and extremely sturdy! It also is very pleasing estheticly. Very nice proportions and scale. I hope you make millions on these!
This is gorgeous. Thanks so much for sharing the plans and hardware shits!
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm starting mine soon and was basing it off the same post you did. My biggest issue is the weight pulling down on the cantilever but i like your idea on the 2x8x10's rather than solid to save weight. Any thoughts on have making them 2x8x12 for some additional coverage? Trying to create some shade over an outdoor dinning table so the more overhang the better.
I used the 2x8x10s because I have one foot of the beam extended out on each side. This is decorative but I kept my roof 8x16 so it would take 4 sheets of 4x8 plywood. I also used a 1/3 2/3 rule to keep the weight of the over hang side manageable. Meaning keep 1/3 of the beam on the down hill side of the column and no more than 2/3 of it on the up hill side. Hope this helps!
Why did ya go 5' down for the posts, just for added extra stability for the wind?
Bill. Thanks for the question. The cantilever design gets its lateral stability from the depth of the column. That’s why it’s good to use cedar as well so you can be sure the posts will stay strong and last for your lifetime!
Do you think 5 feet down was overkill or just about right?
Column depth is what provides lateral stability to cantilevered structures. When you dig the post holes you should bell out the bottom for additional friction on the column base. 5’ depth has provided the stability and strength I wanted and I have had no issues in high wind. If you have concerns you can always consult a structural engineer to confirm the column depth for your soil and weather zone.
Hi Chris. This thing is gorgeous. One question on the beams that stick out in the front. Did you do any flashing or anything where they meet up with the roof? That seems like it would track water there and then leak into the covered part.
Thanks for the kind words. I used a healthy application of silicone sealant to keep the water out. It has worked great. Just used a dark brown sealant with a nice slope on it to Channel the water off the sides and stained over it.
@@chriswinnek7200 cool. Thanks for letting me know. Flavian great job. Love it.
@@chriswinnek7200 How were you able to stain over the silicone?
@@CraigP-z4t I stained first then sealed over the stain. Worked great!
Looks fantastic.
Thanks for watching!
I was told by a mason not to bury wood in concrete because it'll rot. Hopefully the paint you put on will prevent that?
Hopefully. The column extending deep into the ground is what allows you to do a cantilever. The friction and lateral forces from the buried column provide the lateral stability required to support the overhang. That’s why I had to go down 5’. I Also used cedar with asphalt sealant and prepared the post holes to maximize drainage to extend the life of the structure. I am confident that it will last for my lifetime.
great work
Thanks for watching and the kind remarks!
I loved 🥰
Love it! How wide and how deep is the span? I'd like to morph your concept into a front entryway /carport. Your thoughts on this?
Thanks!! The beams are about 11’6 apart. 2x6s can span about 12’ between beams. The cantilever beam has the outrigger supports that are at 90 degrees on the back side and 45 degrees on the middle side. I have the column at about 1/3 on the outside and 2/3 on the inside. With the 5’ column depth in the ground it is solid as a rock!
What I have in mind is a cantilevered portico/carport roof wider/deeper than the width of a car with its doors open and longer than standard car length. I'm no builder so apologize for any confusingly incorrect terminology.....I visualize a light-weight cantilevered roof attached to a header-stringer spanning 20 feet or so that is supported by 2-3 posts bolted to the facade of the house instead of buried into the ground. Does this seem feasible to you or any of your viewers?
@@pig-a-dillyman2676 wow! Sounds pretty awesome! I would recommend looking around for similar designs on the web and using a design that works for your application. Metal structure may be more appropriate for your plan. 20’ spans with wood are going to get pricey and require engineered beams. Maybe someone else reading this will have some thoughts to add here. Let me know what you decide on and thanks for your comments!
Great video
Thanks for the kind words!
Wow! Looks amazing! Thanks for sharing.
Any lessons learned on what you would do differently?
Thanks for watching and the comments. To answer your question, when working with drip edge it is extremely tempting to overlap the pieces instead of cutting them to butt up nicely end to end. I did this and thought “ehh, who’s gonna notice?” It causes the light guage metal to ripple and it really catches the sunlight. So I saved a few minutes upfront by overlapping them, only to replace that time saved with having to stare at this minor imperfection while I’m having a beverage. Other than that, I’m very pleased with it!
@@chriswinnek7200 Thanks!
It's absolutely beautiful... yes you inspired me... I have to get someone to do it... if you close to me will ask you to do it... 🇨🇦
Lol. Thanks for the kind words! Looks like your a little north of Austin Texas! Good luck with your project!
@@chriswinnek7200 yes Chris... I am hoping to have the same...it's the most beautiful that I have ever found on the net... thanks for sharing with the world...
Thanks to you I am getting two of them on my Deck
Make sure you film it! Send me the link to your project
@@chriswinnek7200 I am not a you tuber... I will take some pics and send them to you somehow... many thanks again
I’m thinking of building a longer version of this to carry solar water heating panels for my pool. Love the deign.
Awesome. Let me know how it turns out!
Amazing
@@gsmoneygsmoney1479 thanks for the positive feedback! I appreciate you watching!
Hello Chris, this turned out great. what determines how far out the cover can extend? thinking about building a larger one. about 20' wide x 12' overhang length. any insights?
I’m not an engineer so I would not be able to provide any specific numbers on how to scale up. The lateral stability of a cantilever design comes from
Column depth and thickness. For that size I would use 8”x8” cedar post and 2x12 cedar beams. Keep the Columns as short as possible above grade. The taller your height the deeper the column footing needs to go. 2x6 rafters will work fine for a 20’ if your columns are about 12 ft apart. The beams should be about 1/3 on one side of the column and 2/3 overhang side so your support bracing may need to be adjusted. 12’ is a pretty significant over hang compared to my design which is about 6’. When in doubt consult a structural engineer!
Great vid dad! 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Thanks broseph!!
Nice!
Thanks!
Hi are you able to share the plans?
@@thomasfamily5730 I’m sorry. I don’t have any plans other than what’s in the video. I just took it slow and one step at a time.
Nice🎉job
Thank you for the feedback! And thanks for watching!
Holy Shit! 5-Feet Down Footing?
Hahaha. Yes. The depth is what gives a cantilevered structure it’s lateral stability.
The question is: How much did you charged???... mone money money! 😬
I saved a ton of money by building it myself and planning out the most economic design with modular sizes that had minimal material waste.
Just what I need everyday!! Become a YT god > P R O M O S M!!