10 Things NOT To Copy Off Tour de France Pros If You Want To Be FAST AND COMFORTABLE On The Bike
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- From tyres to lightweight climbing bikes, we've taken a good look at all of the 2024 Tour de France road bikes and equipment and here are 10 things that you perhaps are better off not copying off the likes of Pogacar, Mark Cavendish and Vingegaard if you want to be quicker and more comfortable on your road bike.
The Tour de France is home to some of the best 2024 road bikes and best road bike equipment in the world but it doesn't mean that we should copy all the choices from the world of pro cycling. Will you be purchasing any of these road bike upgrades? Let us know in the comments section below...
⚫️ Other videos that might interest you
2024 SRAM Red AXS vs Shimano Dura-Ace R9200 | Which Is BEST?
🎦 • 2024 SRAM Red AXS vs S...
Future Tour de France Tech: The Game-changing Pedals That Claim To Make You FASTER!
🎦 • Future Tour de France ...
Engineering The Van Rysel RCR Pro - The Most Exciting Road Bike in The 2024 Tour de France?
🎦 • Engineering The Van Ry...
10 Things To Copy Off Tour de France Pros To Make You FASTER & More Comfortable on The Bike
🎦 • 10 Things To Copy Off ...
2024 Giant Defy vs Canyon Endurace vs Lauf Uthald - Which Road Bike Is The Ultimate Mile Muncher?
🎦 • 2024 Giant Defy vs Can...
⚫️ In this video
0:00 Introduction
0:34 Massive Chainrings
1:22 Race Tyres
2:08 Top-End Groupsets
2:56 White bar tape
3:24 The Bikes!
4:32 Aero beaks!
5:17 Super lightweight bits
6:10 Ceramic bearings
6:52 Integrated cockpits
7:47 Fueling
8:35 Outro
⚫️ Check out our other channels
On the Web
▶️ road.cc
Instagram
▶️ / road.cc
Twitter
▶️ / roadcc
Facebook
▶️ /
Podcast
▶️ road.cc/tags/podcast - กีฬา
I bought Primoz Roglic’s old 2021 team bike thinking i could ride it..the handlebars were that far below the seat height & that stretched out forwards I quickly realised it was impossible for me…it’s now wall art in my kitchen..
Half the people I ride with slam their stem to look pro but lack the flexibility to ride in the drops for > 2 minutes
so true, I felt into that trap, I regret it, and I'm actually putting my original stem on my bike...what's even worse is that it was an idea from my bike fitter at the time(2016).
@@dgleitaocontratos same, wish i had a spacer or 2 left. Comfort is everything.
Is that flexibility or core and arm strength? To me, not being able to hold your weight up properly is what leads to someone being unable to hold the aero position
@@dgleitaocontratos What I like to do for riders that ask me for a bike fit is I give them a stem 130mm slammed, then go higher until being comfortable. More often than not if your saddle is set perfect you'd want none other than slammed (unless you spent an unreasonable on your dream bike even though it's a size too small) I have other set ups for injured riders and very very casual riders but for most, I try to give them that cool slammed stem.
@@Millicenteinteresting point. Been doing core stability and stretching since January 4 times a week 20 minutes and with the same setup more comfort in the drops. Could be a placebo, but interesting anyway.
I've just bought myself a new bike - but to "earn it", I promised myself I needed to lose (and keep off) 5kg first. I got rid of nearly 10kg and it has proven to be a far better upgrade than the new bike which cost over 3x as much as the one it replaces. I'm 40 and never going to compete against anyone other than myself... I just like getting better for getting betters sake... Agree with all of the points in this video but I do love white bartape!
As a 40+ years of experience as a cyclist, I agree with all of this.
I still prefer a race geometry and a flat back to a raised front-end and tall jead tube. Get as low as you can get being confy and efficient, train your flat back on the trainer in winter. Make sur you can ride in the drops.
Aero is free…
With 60+ years of cycling experience, I agree with you. Except for the white bar tape. I just went back to white.
All the talk about Aero and weight is so totally nonsense for a hobby cyclist and even for an amateur racer those are the least important factors if you can't hold a good position on your bike and maintain a good power/weight ratio yourself during racing season.
Team lightweight. I love climbing and hunting times on climbs!
I recently got the new POC helmet with an integrated visor, and it's the best piece of gear I've ever purchased. I get that it might make me look silly, but I like the clean design and it completely eliminates wind noise, which is a game changer for me, even though I'm a slug.
Hi. Did you get the procen air? I have some hearing issues and am looking for ways to reduce wind noise. I cannot ride without a specific headband to cover my ears. Looking for a better solution and think the procen or procen air is it.
@@daneilsteenkamp6886 i got the procen air, and although I havent done any scientific test, the unbearable nosie is offset to speeds Im not capable of sustaining(very fast descends etc) What I can tell it doesnt offer as much ventilation but here in the UK that shouldn’t be a real concern.
@@MarioKurill thanks so much for the feedback.
I am 100% on Team Comfort .. I dont Race my bike or try to win anything I just love riding my bike to burn off the Cake stay healthy and to push my self a bit.. 2-3 times a year I will join a 5-9 hour Race but my goal here is just to push me to the limit if what I can do I do not care if I spend 20 min more or less ..
This is the way; for us recreational cyclists (that is EVERYONE who doesn't have a sponsor 😂) a ride that takes a few minutes longer is actually a better workout for us
The only ones encouraging us to "Be like the Pro's!" are typically the vendors & advertisers. Our families & friends, though, usually have a different opinion! 😂
... the pros* (plural, no apostrophe)
happy to see fueling mentioned, most yt video's on this topic go on about pro's taking in +100gr carbs/hour and claim you should do the same, which is absolute nonsense. most people don't even have and ftp that is as high as half the ftp of a pro, so no, you don't need to take in such a high volume of carbs since your energy output is much, much lower.
That is a very valid point, I must admit I had not considered it. I do take gels with me, especially on a longer ride as I do simply find them more convenient and I struggle with solid food. I don't however consume anywhere near the amount they suggest. But with a very humble FTP it's probably enough.
Off course you shouldn’t take 100+g all the time you don’t race full gas all the time but more time in the saddle you need more per hour
100gr carbs/hr is burned generating 100 Watts. And this doesn't include the fuel needed to maintain one's basal metabolism. So even riding at a modest cycling pace, you're riding at a caloric deficit.
... YT videos* (plural, no apostrophe) otherwise completely agreed. If you ride three hours or less, you do not need to refuel while riding at all. And if the ride is longer you also do not need to replace every single calorie the moment you burn it.
@@christerohlsson9034 Of* course ...
Definitely agree with not smashing down too many gels and energy drinks. I find them great in moderation but excessive consumption finds me sitting on the toilet a few times after the ride... thankfully I haven't experienced that during a ride (yet)
Agree with most of this except the tires. Unless there's some extremely huge difference between the gp5000 tlr and the tt in terms of puncture protecting that I'm not aware of. That was probably the best single upgrade for speed I've done over the stock tires that came with my bike. I've had 1 puncture that sealant didn't 100% fix which I patched at home.
the difference is: tt 220TPI in 2 layers, blackchili 330TPI in 3 layers, and almost 2 times cheaper
Those STRs are pretty damn fast. I just moved back to them from Vittoria N.EXTs which are def slower but more puncture resistant.
I love the STRs, but had been really rubbing thru them. I worried that the TTs would be really short life.
The nose guard looks good given the weather - cold and blood vessel damage, sun and cancer - either way, a guard seems sensible
Even as a mechanic, i built my Winspace T1500 with the (semi) external cable routing option.
MUCH more convenient for maintenance and to fit my travel case.
I'm 67 and in addition to being deep into the age groups have also entered the Clydesdale section of the peloton, figuratively speaking. I ride a Calfee Luna with Ultra components. When the bike was built up, including the pedals and bottle cages, it weighed about 8.4 kg. I've ridden it about 40,000 miles without the slightest problem with the frame or any of the components. I'd much rather have a slightly heavier carbon frame that will last than one that will crack at the least excuse, as I have seen some of them do.
There's white bar tape on the market that stays white even with minimal cleaning
What brand? I use white Fizik classic 2mm - LOVE it and stays white all season but I do use a magic eraser sponge when it gets black marks - so VERY CURIOUS what brand you’re referencing. Thanks in advance!
I prefer White bar tape. Specialized Roubaix is thick and confortable. I clean it with water and soap in a washcloth and it is perfect
Thank you!!!
@@unlockedbox3369 Cannondale has a silicone based white tape. I clean probably once a month. It really doesn’t require cleaning at all. They acquired it from Fabric.
Very informative and full with facts. Tqsm
Great video. Thanks for sharing
As a rider that is blind as a mole, a visor helmet was my choice to see and have sun protection, without having to buy new glasses for sportive sunglasses once per year to match my eyesight (or lack thereof...).
You can still opt for one that doesn't look like straight off a scifi movie too😅
I know my equipment is old, but it looks like we have run full circle on the chainrings. I've run a 53/39 for probably 20 years.
The difference is the cassette at the rear
@@a1white I still run an 11-25
Black bar tape is the flag that says you started riding bikes 3 years ago.
Not necessarily. I’m 71 and I got back into cycling in 1985 when I lived and worked at the military HQ of NATO in Belgium. And, yes, I have gone on rides with Eddy Merckx a couple of times. I gave up amateur racing in the U.S. after a crash at the Virginia State Road Race championship when I was 49. On my 25 year old Litespeed titanium the black bar tape complements the overall color scheme. On my new Dogma F with Campagnolo Super Record wireless in Speedster Silver the color scheme is pearlescent silver with glossy black accents. So black bar tape, (and I have been taping my own bars since I was a teenager), looks good on the Talon Ultra bar/stem. I was riding with a woman a few years ago who had a pink saddle, pink tape and a pink helmet on her white bike. She was a family member of a well-known breast cancer charity. Making shallow generalizations only shows your own lack of experience.
Agreed on aero cockpits. They also make it harder to attach addons that are designed to attach to a standard round handlebar.
Integrated cockpits looking great? Obviously the beauty is in the eye of the beholder...
Crazy, I have a 53/39 and it has been great for me
Moi aussi! Campagnolo Record. Also, Campy 13/27 Cassette. 21 year old components crafted from Aluminum & steel.
Yeah I ride a 54/i forgot the other one just fine
This means you're a pro riding at professional cadence levels at any given gearing OR.... your cadence is that of the old-breed/old-man cadence, and more than likely not nearly as fast/efficient over a given period of riding. I ride at high cadence 90-100 +/- but my gearing is small because like most, I'm not professional level fast. I guess it's all preference, but also, I'm assuming that you're saying it works for you implies you're as fast as a pro. Au revoir
@@troywalling8636it also depends where you ride
@@troywalling8636 you're assuming way too much. I ride both a 50/34 and 53/39 on 2 different bikes. I hugely prefer the 53/39 as my surroundings are mostly flat with little hills, and the 53 is much better for group rides. Any gear shift with the 53 is less increment compared to the 50. So on flat rides averaging around 35k/hr, mostly cruising around 40k/hr, the 53 works best, and the 39 with a 30 in the back is good enough for anything up to 10% / 2 km.
The part of integrated cockpits are true.. but unfortunatly the majority of bikes already bring it!
visma Helmet will ALWAYS be funny and a meme! 😂
I've been using a 53/39 chainset on a 11-18 rear block, since I was 16 I'm 55 now, never had an issue, but now I'm older I'm using 50/34 on a 11-25 rear block as ibroke back a few years back which put pay to my cycfor a few years.
As an older rider 73 I actually use a 48/32 crankset with an 11/28 cassette it's perfect for me. A cadence of 100 gives about 50kph after that just freewheel!
As much as i'd love to have a top end comp bike, at 52 years old, it would be entirely wasted on me. I'm happy to be riding my Canyon Endurace AL7 rb, it's comfy but still lively, especially as i swapped out the stock wheels for Hunt's Race Aero wide wheelset. I'll probably stay in the Endurace range, hopping up to a Carbon Disc brake bike in a year or two
Flats are pretty rare in my area but I’m a scaredy cat so I’ll always go grip first, then speed, then robustness
I have a 54/36 11-34 Dura-Ace on a Madone with an integrated cockpit and a Sram top of the line 50/37 10-36 integated cockpit on another Madone, live in the high mountains (Andorra). Both have "very slightly" slammed stems and sprint changers on both bikes and I can ride on the drops for ages. Both bikes are ex-Trek team. The second one did come with a 38cm -13 too slammed stem which I replaced. I'm 66
Comfort for me... 1st Comfort
Good info but there are new options. My 3ddtransitions Svelte bars angle drops inward, ultra aero and more hand positions.
I have a 2016 Trek Domane with Ultegra di2. The chainrings it came equipped with was the 50 /34 . I have changed those for the semi compact 52/36 . For my next bike I will definitely going aero, because yes they can have a bit harsher ride, but the roads I mostly ride are pretty good so I think some gel bar tape on carbon bars would dampen a lost of the fatigue causing vibrations through the hands, and most newer aero designs have some flex built in anyway to dampen some of bumps..
Areo bikes are the shit. Way more rock n roll lol
Wider tires is all you need for compliance. Dwarfs any so called benefit from a “compliant” frame.
I don’t have my stem slammed on my 2013 Trek Madone , I ride in the drops a lot I try to maintain fitness and flexibility, which I don’t see a lot of riders being able to stay in the drops a long time and I also have a 53 , 39 group set w 11-25 cassette . Probably the thing that bothers me the most for the past 13 years of road cycling at my age is hand numbness, mostly my left hand. Yeah, I could probably ride a bike with a slammed stem, I’m flexible enough to, but how is your neck and shoulders gonna feel especially in a long ride or maybe if there’s some bumps you’re not gonna feel comfortable.
I wont be even copying or doing what you have proposed
I run a 54/40 with an 11-34 no problem great from the rolling roads of the south of the UK.
In Majorca however this changes to a 52/36 maybe a 50/34. No slammed stem have about 20mm spacers. Pretty flexible but I am not sure I want to try a slammed stem I’m not in my 20s!
Totally agree with all of these. Comfort is key and unless money is no object, top tier groupsets and fully integrated cockpits should be reserved for pros and GCN presenters. I love my trusty steel endurance road bike 🙂
48/35 with 10 in the back is not a compact set it's a bigger ratio then 52/36 with 11 in the back.
A 48/35 with a 10/33 cassette is very similar with a 52/36 and a 11/34 casette
It's a compact, and specifically a compact with an unnecessary amount of chain friction.
I’ve been wearing Cav’s £1k aero socks 🧦 and I’ve gained 100 watts!
Only 100!?
I agree that I don't need any of this stuff because I'm not good enough for it to make a difference, but I have to say I love the look of the cockpits with integrated bars coupled with the disc brakes is so neat. Maintenance is another story though with headset replacement a bigger job due to the brake lines routed through the bearings
Covering boa dials is quicker and is a relatively cheap way to save a few watts. More endurance focused bikes typically have slacker head tube angles as well. I like a twitchy front end over something that lags behind. A poc helmet wjth integrated visor is great If youre racing, but if youre not you likely dont even consider it. Gels and such are great for packing a lot of calories in a small space. 54 is not a massive chainring, if you live where its flat and spend your cruising north of 20mph youll be fine. You certainly wont "blow up your knees" hell mine were fine after a 4 hour climb at 55rpm.
im team all around :D
Ceramic bearings also need far more frequent regreasing maintenance.
100% agree
I bought a endurace bike very comfortable, light weight , its a fast bike , it had 32 " for confort , just right for absorbing bumps. Probably could go faster with a thinner tire , but I am 65 , i am looking for comfortable ride .
The only ones of the 10 I agree with are the tires and perhaps the chainring size. I wouldn't use the light, less puncture-resistant tires for training. Other than that, who are you to judge whether an integrated handlebar system, for example, is worth it for me?
I drink about 120g-160g CH an hour and haave no issues at all. Buit i got more power after a 3h ride. So pls copy it. You need energy and your can take way more than you expect. Try it
Are yo sure you get these numbers correctly or do you want to get fat from cycling? 160 grams of carbohydrates (sugar) are 640 kilocalories. You only burn about 600 kc per hour. There is no need to consume such large amounts of sugar during an effort.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 ,mb you just burn 600, i got up to 800. And i am really sure, putting out 220 Watts an hour is more than 600 kCal. My body fat is at 8-9 % so what are you telling me? And the 160g was the upper limit, if i am at a race, while training its 120g. So 480 kCal per hour is just perfect to have constant power.
You should go with an endurance bike for the recreational rider who races the Gran Fondos a little, but most of the time needs comfort for those 80-120 km rides and can go pretty fast if you want. Definitely agree on not having a really aggressive geometry. As for tires, some of the best tires for both performance and durability aren't so expensive that I wouldn't get them. I'm on my second set of Continental GP tubeless tires. (The S TR right now), and I get almost two seasons out of them. Fast. Comfortable. Never had a flat in almost 4 years since going tubeless. Definitely agree on a compact chain ring with a slightly larger cassette. 50-34, and 11-34 for me. We are rarely in our largest gear and then not for very long so we don't need a big, big ring. And I'm quite happy with my Ultegra Di2. I don't think I would really notice the Dura-Ace weight difference but I would notice the ridiculous price difference. Finally, gels are great for those occasional times when I'm going to push myself harder and longer. I have about 10-15 rides per year where the gels help along with a second water bottle with electrolyte powder. I only buy one box of gels and they last me the year. . A few granola bars and a water bottle are sufficient for most rides. Find what works for you by making small adjustments until you feel right on a hard day
GP5000 STR is very durable for a bald tire
Team light weight.
i have standard 53/39 dura ace from 1995. and no problems for 26km/h, i drive 53-23 gears
spot on..
I was shock that pogacar has lower seatpost height than me and he is 176 and i am 172. Should i lower my seat height? I sometimes have knee pain especially in long climbs.
man, it depends on your flexibility and anatomy. Longer legs - higher seatpost, more hamstring and lower back flexibility - higher seatpost. Overall, lower seatpost allows higher power output.
Sorry mate. Love white bar tape. Just keep re wrapping them😂
things not to copy from the pros: crash 😂
Had to laugh regarding getting the best chain line like it was a new thing. I remember Barry Hoban doing this for Paris roubaix but he changed the cassette to get the ideal chain line sprocket.
You could add carbon wheels to the list. People buy them because they’re convinced they’re needed for any performance bike. And they are ‘pro’. Unless you regularly race and are progress from Cat 4 up towards Cat 1, steel rims are all you need, as are rim brakes but they’re now so rare they are too expensive for most people to afford. I predict a swing back to rim brakes as a lot of people will need to buy a new bike 😁 Oh, and it’s Campag all the way!
If you live in a flat area mid depth or deep carbon rims are a huge difference over box section alloys. I run 60s all the time and once they're rolling they stay rolling. They're fantastic and immediately noticeable right out of the box
Neither lightweight nor aerodynamic...
When I reach 10000 rpm, I will use ceramic bearings.....😂
What shoes are you wearing in the beginning of the video?
i wonder how's the rice cake taste like....
I may not be riding as fast as the Tour de France pros, but I also don't ride in the Alps and Pyrenees. Where I live, large chain rings keep me in the middle of the cassette most of the time.
Team comfortable here!
I always ride with a 60t chainring with a 10t on the rear. I never change down 👍💪👍
Real and true
We don't have a choice on integrated cockpits.
I've been riding for 40 years and I've gratefully adopted bike tech that has improved my amateur rides: clipless pedals, bike computers, better tyres and lighter group sets. I have a titanium bike with handbuilt wheels I can re-spoke myself and manual Campag record. When I'm riding abroad I can fix it all myself. Pro bikes are fragile. I've spent years nodding in sympathy with ride mates over their tales of broken carbon wheels, frames and bars, not finding the right disc pads in Spain, and electronic shifting that won't charge or that suddenly crashes. My attitude is that I'm not a pro, so a pro bike has more cons than pros for me as it isn't really improving my ride and when it goes wrong it is a real problem. I don't have a team car with a mechanic following me when I ride in France - so I keep it simple.
Boring 😂😂
Q: is beer a performance enhancer most amateurs can afford?
This whole publication needs referring to Rule V
The Cav BOA cover is actually the new Nopinz product....
White bar tape is awesome.
Fuelling, there is no way I would ever be capable of burning energy at the rate the pros do. Any Gels that i use are put into one of the water bottles - seems to work for me. As for lightweight - have purchased a set of lightweight wheels - just don't have the raw power/cardio duration to tackle some of the steeper climbs without them.
You should mention bike computer.
I still believe im not a regular mortal so i want to fit a 54. Not possible on ultegra :/
The Poc helmet is a cool piece of kit!!!! Why ppl talk down on it idk.
Because it's ugly, that's why!
I roll with a 55T chainring, 48T is for the birds!
The common sports rider very rarely rides over 17 or 18 mph on flat ground what this means is that aero gains from anything other than a good set of aero wheels are practically non-existent. So buying ANY aero bike is silly and simply throwing away your money. Also, at these sorts of speeds you will find that a lb or two of weight difference makes almost no detectable difference. I do a lot of climbing in the San Francisco bay area and I have stopped getting carbon fiber bikes and gone back to metal bikes like my steel Basso Loto and a Moser M82. No aerodynamics but They weigh within 2 lbs of my Ridley Helium and my BMC SLO1. And at 80 I have given up on trying to ride faster than others. Professional racing is still interesting but it isn't for me and when someone comes by me at 20 mph I think that they are silly especially since they are riding half my yearly mileage. Climbing the local high mountains around here are limited FAR more by water and nourishment intake than weight of your bike. For most riders even drop bar bikes are problematic and upright posture is better and gives them more pleasure. Don't worry, be happy.
is there someone who can give me the name of the bike in minute 4:05?
I’d agree with all except the integrated stem - basically every bike worth its salt if you’re buying new will be integrated.
I’m sorry to say, just like like disc brakes and electronic shifting, instead of complaining about it you might as well get used to it. Integrated cockpits are here to stay
Aero vs light weight should really be based on how fast you actually ride. If you ride at 17-18 mph, the aero benefits aren't much and if you are over 70, the lighter bike is the sure fire winner.
Pretty sure Cav is using unmarked NoPinz Hypersonic Tovershoes boa covers, not tape. They're only £39.99.
Aero-beak 🐦
Dude… my endurace is ALOT slower than my Noah fast… the comfort the bike offers is northing compared to the speed You sacrifice. I use my endurace for gravel of bad weather rides. But in a fast groupride its worthless
Agreed on my Roubaix vs my new Tarmac. Would never go back to an endurance bike.
Strong disagree on the tyre remark. Even though tubeless tyres are not cheap, they still present you one of the most cost-effective upgrades. Not just rolling resistance, but also cornering grip. much more impactful than going from mid range to top range frameset
I think you misinterpreted, strange no one clarified yet. He wasn't dissing tubeless tires; TT stands for time trial where the tires are optimized for relatively short and very fast solo efforts, often in rather flat terrain, and hence not really good for amateurs (due to very high running costs and increased puncture risk and maybe increased risk of dangerous failure in general due to weaker coffin construction) maybe except those TTs and triathlon amateur events.
Aerobikes are ideal, lightweight is more the focus for climbing specialists. Obviously aerobikes are also among the lightest.
“Blow and behold” blow? 🤣
The AI doing the captions does NOT know the difference between "carbs", & "carbon", among MANY other such examples....just sayin', - you guys might wanna check that.....
Good video, otherwise....
Triathletes wear those tt style aero helmets with sun visors all the time around my area. Roadies? Not so much.
don't slam your stem yes it may look cool but id rather cycle in comfort than have a painful experience
A slammed stem does not even look cool on most bikes. With at least one spacer beneath it, it's much more harmonic and looks less crammed.
In the end, your heart, athletic ability, and commitment to training will determine how fast and far you go. Not many things more embarrassing than someone tricked out in an over-the-top kit falling off the back of a hard-core pack of local bike animals on mid-range gear, or less.
BTW: Guitars are similar. You don’t ever want to show up at a group guitar jam and be the worst guitarist w the fanciest guitar.
Two "medium size bananas"? It all depends how big the bananas are.
Medium sized
Copy me instead:
Hybrid bike, raised & retracted flat bar, cushioned seat, upright seated position, spiked flat pedals, light running shoes, exercise pants, t-shirt.
Now that's cycling.
I hate a compact crank sorry - got to be 52/36 at least. I have a bike that is 50/34 and it is way too small for me. Cadence is too high and power not good.
TEAM "HEAVYWEIGHT."... For me, there's one rule: The components need to make my bikeride as comfy as possible. 2, 3 Kilo extra is no problem! I'm no pro, and have no ambition to be an pro. I just want to ride my bike comfy.
Solid tips! #11 pros on disc brakes (seem to be crashing a lot in TDF) with hefty price tag, squeaks and more weight. For the rest of us save money and brake smoothly at a lighter weight with rim brakes. They look cooler too.
It’s only more expensive right now due to demand, lead times, shifts in production and the market being saturated with rim brake bikes that aren’t trending.
I reckon it is actually cheaper to get a disc brake bike, if you want Carbon wheels - and much safer in the rain. Squeakiness should not be a problem for those who clean their bikes regularly.
Live in the past.
While I am still happy with the rim brakes on most of my bikes, it is now almost impossible to get a decent new road bike without them. Rim brakes on road bikes are dead, hard to accept but that's the way it is.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 I’d be pissed if they didn’t work as well… but they’re better in every measure of performance. And my first disc brake bike is about one year and 2500 km old, so I feel like I’ve given them a decent enough workout.
@@paulgrimshaw8334 I don't put slime in my 25c tires either. I go with what works best.
54 isn't a "massive" chainring.
No. 1: Do not buy a bike like theirs! Unless of course you can ride as fast as them for the same distances day after day. Even then I suspect some of them are still uncomfortable.
Fully agree with your comments.
In addition I would like to add that comfort on the bike is the most essential element for us amateur riders. If you feel comfortable on your bike you can ride more often, for longer and still be able to do other things instead of recovering after a ride. One might not be as fast but if you sum up the miles (or km) it still adds up to an excellent level of fun.
And then, if you feel like it, put flat handlebars on your racing bike, use gravel shifters and MTB derailleurs, get rid of the clip pedals and use flat pedals (and toe clips) and break the mould, stand out and enjoy.
GP 5000's are great. I live where every plant is trying to puncture your tires and I RARELY get flats. Everyone here runs GP 5000's. They last a long time. What are they even talking about here
We suggest using the GP5000TR and not the GP5000TT which are a much lighter and thinner tyre, The standard GP5000 did in fact win our best overall tyre award so we agree they are great
Massive 54th chainrings ? 53-39 was standard 10 years ago and cassettes of the time use to be 11-23. 54 vs 53 is the same (2 % difference) and climbing gears are actually lower know. The middle of the cassette thing is true in TT with 60+ chainrings. Same bias with Track bike and the 64t used in pursuite : rear cogs is also bigger making the ratio not very different that 53x11 you have on road... a proper cycling myth.
Most of the increased speed comes from more aero equipment, gear ratios increased less than average cadence did over the past decade.
mAsSiVe 54T cHaInRiNg
WTF, ARE YOU GUYS LIVING IN 1800???
Not to mention that Shimano chainrings are hollow, which is the exact opposite of massive.
Visma’s TT helmets and the specialized tt helmets are the ugliest. Ceramic bearings are faster and when not abused last longer. They are worth it in jockey wheels above the wheels or bb due to their higher speed.