I've made a box with the routed lid like this (only with mitered corners) years and years ago and coincidentally we are going to make one like it this weekend. I was surprised to see this come up in my search for a "woodworking, watch box." The tape for the routed edges and demo versions of the box really help in teaching this method, thanks! And I too learned something in using those spacers for cutting the pieces to length. This box construction method -- it's like magic when the lid is separated off and then it forms its own lip with the box below! I must have seen this idea in an old wood-working magazine all those years ago, certainly wouldn't have been able to come up with it myself, even more of a novice at that time than I am now and I'm still a newbie! Two comments about my box. The miters give a nicer corner; we had rounded all edges of the box and put an Ogee type routing pattern around the top of the lid and it really looks lovely compared to the rabbeted ends. (Not that I mind them normally -- just built a big box last weekend with those corners. But the miters look nicer. Finger joints would be nice, too.) The other thing is that my box from back then -- we looked at it tonight -- has a lot of slop in the lid fit and I'd like the next one for watches to fit a little more snugly. Not sure where I went wrong with the dado's before splitting them apart. Guess I cut each of them too deep into the sides by a bit and it adds up? Will try to adjust next time and cut a sample like you show just after 16 mins into the video. Many thanks and kudo's for all your videos! I learn something every time I watch you! :)
These videos are excellent. I've been doing basic stuff like rough cut boxes and resurfacing projects now while I wait to move to a house where I can set up a shop and am learning so much from these.
First, I'd like to give you a big thank you! Your videos are all very well made and your instructions are clear and concise. I've been watching for a while and thought that it was time for me to let you know that a big fan appreciates your content. Second, I'd like to share with you that my new router and router table have been put together/set up and I am inspired to begin with this box project. Thanks again, Lori
Lifeis Wonderful Hi Lori, thanks for your note, and welcome to the world of routing. The one piece box is a great way to get started and if you are like me, you will get better and better at making them as time goes on. Maybe you will share some pics of your creations with us on woodworkweb :)
Well I was totally immersed into this video. I never knew how this was done. I will be putting a new wood shop together this month in a large Barn. Hoping to build a box just like this. I have the tools used here, just needed the knowledge of How to cut out and build . Very nicely done Sir.
Thanks for the note .. the slot cuts can be any width, I find wider is a bit better and the ragget cuts are basiclly the same width as the wood you are using, so in this case I was using 3/8" wood, so rabbets would be the same width. Hope this helps ... sorry for the delay ... Great to have you with us :) Colin
Love your videos,and sometime when watching, things seem to make more sense to me! Hey Colin, ............have you been watching The Router Workshop? Lol 😎
I can't remember that I've seen this video before. Great way to build boxes. I need to try this about. (maybe I'll take some smaller dimensions) Thanks for sharing (and for keeping the video all the time at your You Tube channel)
Thanks for the video! I'm wondering how you measure to set the proper placement of the fence. Would love to hear your advice on that and how to keep it parallel all the way across the table.
Colin,..great video and small project. I'd like to make a few of these. There were a couple of measurements that weren't indicated with respect to setting up the router to make the rabbit cuts and then the slot cut with the spiral bit. What is the setup measurements on the router with the fence for the rabbits and also the fence setting for the slot cuts?....thanks again for a great instructional video! well done...
I like the little box. It will be a good project for summer when the kids are out of school. I will make up kits ready to assemble and finish for them. P.S. I can't access your web site woodworkweb
Great Router Videos Colin. I been following for a while. I love this project. When I get my table and new router set up, Im going to be giving this a try. Thanks for all the great videos and now im off to watch the next in line...lol im interested too in seeing what you think about making a chess board, Ogee edges.... :D
+WoodWorkWeb: Colin, I used 1/2 inch wood for my box and I'm about to cut off the lid. Inside groove was made using a 3/8 inch straight bit since I didn't have a spiral bit handy. Here's my question: what should the height of the bit be when cutting off the top, bearing in mind I'm using 1/2 inch thick wood? I ask because your video shows you cutting all the way through for the top, but when you show the sample piece it looks like you only went halfway through the wood. Also, how far below the inside cut should the outside cut be? DIRECTLY below? Thanks in advance for the help. Peter
The inside and outside cuts for the lid and slightly deeper that about halfway through your wood, so in your case the depth wants to be 1/4" plus another ... 1/32 or so this will allow the box lid to drop down over the inside cut and make a nice fit. The outside cut wants to be in that area below the inside cut and it should be about threequaters of the diameter of your bit, below the inside cut. so you said you were using a 3/8 straight bit, then the the edge of the top of that cut wants to fall just slightly above ... again my 1/32 -to 1/16 above the lower part of your inside cut. Hope I explained it well enough for you ... if not, email me
WoodWorkWeb Colin, thanks a million. That response answers all my questions. Just wanted to make sure I was getting my head around the depths and position of the outside cut. Thanks for the response and more so, thanks for responding so promptly. Your channel is one of the best and I thank you for all your videos and tips! Keep up the good work! Peter
Hi CW, yikes you have me at a disadvantage :) ... it's been so long since I made these boxes, that I can't remember, you could be right. I will have to go back check them out, BTW, did you check out the article on woodworkweb?, I'm pretty sure I put the dimensions on it there as well. I will try and do that early next week for you. Colin
Hi Colin I understand everything you do up until the last cut - I just cant understand how you can get the lid to come apart if you are only going part way thru. Are actually cutting the final groove so the bit just gets the bottom of the inside groove. Burt
Sometime (maybe you've done so already) a little closeup video on how to use the setup bars (stacking them, sliding one on top of another to check depth, etc.), please. I know how to use them, but would appreciate seeing any tricks you might add.
I’m curious about the order in which you make all the cuts. If you cut the slot before cutting the four sides apart, wouldn’t that be quicker and more accurate? Likewise, rather than making 2 ends and 2 sides that are different, wouldn’t it be simpler and more symmetrical to make four identical sides, each with a single rabbet on the same edge?
So I have to ask... at the 8:01 mark you show/say to measure off the flat 'side' of the blade with the 4" spacer to get the necessary 4" cut. But why would we not be using the outside edge of that left side tooth to measure from instead, since that is where the blade is actually going to cut? I would think that by setting up the stop block off the flat 'side' of the blade (and not the edge of the tooth itself) would give you an actual length LESS than 4" (by half the thickness of the blade)...or am I missing something, and been doing it wrong all these years? I always use the outer edge of the outer tooth (on whichever side I'm cutting from) to determine the correct overall length (if that makes sense). I enjoyed the video but am a bit confused about how you're showing to set up the stop block here (to get exactly 4") since using the edge of the tooth with the 4" spacer block makes the only sense to me.
When you showed the ends dimensions, did you show the edges that have the rabbets in as the 4 "‘, and the sides that have no rabbet being 3 5/8 " ? Should that be the other way round? That is, the edges with the rabbets at 3 5/8" and the edges without the rabbets at 4 " ?
I've watched this video at least half a dz. times and still mess it up. I have taken notes and drawn pictures and still have problems. Do you have printed instructions? Thank you for this video.
stephen dickinson Did you also check out the article on woodworkweb, that may be of some help, anyway, email me through woodworkweb, maybe we figure out whats going on
When you measured your pieces with the guide stick, you didn't take into account the fact that you have carbide teeth on the saw blade. Where you measured on the blade with the guide stick was actually narrower than the thickness of the blade where the carbide teeth are.
Hi Bruce ... sorry, not following you, haven't done these boxes in a long long time so I can't remember the details, though I don't recall anyone else commenting on that point ... so perhaps they did make an adjustment, sorry I can't help off hand ...
+bruce1164 +Joe Duggan So the box came out wrong because of this error? Can you give me the timestamp in the video where I can see the box failing because of this? I sure don't want to make this devastating error when I try it.
+Josef Roesler At 8:00 he put the measuring stick against the blade it self, not the carbide teeth. The teeth stick out further sideways than the body of the blade. It's a small amount, but it could make a big difference when you are trying to achieve maximum accuracy.
+Josef Roesler I see your pissed off...haha..but if your happy doing it this way go for it dude...I was taught alway measure from the tooth not the blade..If you want your box 3 and 15/16 do it his way but if you want it 4 inches do it our way...box is a piece of s#&t anyway haha
I tried to make one but I forgot that the size of the sides and the ends are 3/8 " smaller at lenght :/ and I've maybe routed too much the rabetts too :/ For the followings I'll check twice ;) What an absent minded i am :p
Emilien Benard Hey ... know what? I have made my share of mistakes trying to make these too. It's not until I had made a few of them that I really started to get the hang of it :) Good on you for working on making these !!
Ed Waggoner Sr. If I unplugged everything before adjusting things I'd never get anything done. I'd spend all day plugging and unplugging things. Sometimes you just have to take a chance in life. ;)
I've made a box with the routed lid like this (only with mitered corners) years and years ago and coincidentally we are going to make one like it this weekend. I was surprised to see this come up in my search for a "woodworking, watch box."
The tape for the routed edges and demo versions of the box really help in teaching this method, thanks! And I too learned something in using those spacers for cutting the pieces to length.
This box construction method -- it's like magic when the lid is separated off and then it forms its own lip with the box below! I must have seen this idea in an old wood-working magazine all those years ago, certainly wouldn't have been able to come up with it myself, even more of a novice at that time than I am now and I'm still a newbie!
Two comments about my box. The miters give a nicer corner; we had rounded all edges of the box and put an Ogee type routing pattern around the top of the lid and it really looks lovely compared to the rabbeted ends. (Not that I mind them normally -- just built a big box last weekend with those corners. But the miters look nicer. Finger joints would be nice, too.)
The other thing is that my box from back then -- we looked at it tonight -- has a lot of slop in the lid fit and I'd like the next one for watches to fit a little more snugly. Not sure where I went wrong with the dado's before splitting them apart. Guess I cut each of them too deep into the sides by a bit and it adds up? Will try to adjust next time and cut a sample like you show just after 16 mins into the video.
Many thanks and kudo's for all your videos! I learn something every time I watch you! :)
These videos are excellent. I've been doing basic stuff like rough cut boxes and resurfacing projects now while I wait to move to a house where I can set up a shop and am learning so much from these.
Well done, glad to hear. Cedar is a great wood to work with too.
Thanks for sharing this
Colin
First, I'd like to give you a big thank you! Your videos are all very well made and your instructions are clear and concise. I've been watching for a while and thought that it was time for me to let you know that a big fan appreciates your content. Second, I'd like to share with you that my new router and router table have been put together/set up and I am inspired to begin with this box project. Thanks again, Lori
Lifeis Wonderful Hi Lori, thanks for your note, and welcome to the world of routing. The one piece box is a great way to get started and if you are like me, you will get better and better at making them as time goes on. Maybe you will share some pics of your creations with us on woodworkweb :)
Oh perfect :) ... thanks CW for getting back
Great to have you with us
Colin
Colin your presentation is excellent and well planned, thank you
part 2!! part 2!!! part 2!!! :-) Simple and great. Can't wait for part 2 and 3! thx for the upload
I stand corrected sir. I checked the website and those are the dimensions that you indicated. Nice job. THANKS
As always, excellent. Many thanks.👍🇬🇧
Well I was totally immersed into this video. I never knew how this was done. I will be putting a new wood shop together this month in a large Barn. Hoping to build a box just like this. I have the tools used here, just needed the knowledge of How to cut out and build . Very nicely done Sir.
Thank you!
I made one out of cedar this weekend. Thanks for the instructional video Colin, very helpful.
Thanks for the note .. the slot cuts can be any width, I find wider is a bit better and the ragget cuts are basiclly the same width as the wood you are using, so in this case I was using 3/8" wood, so rabbets would be the same width.
Hope this helps ... sorry for the delay ...
Great to have you with us :)
Colin
Thank you sir for explaining it so I get it!!! Enjoy your videos
You're Welcome!
Great job with boxes enjoy your videos
Love your videos,and sometime when watching, things seem to make more sense to me!
Hey Colin, ............have you been watching The Router Workshop?
Lol 😎
I can't remember that I've seen this video before. Great way to build boxes. I need to try this about. (maybe I'll take some smaller dimensions)
Thanks for sharing (and for keeping the video all the time at your You Tube channel)
+Hans de Groot Once Again, Thanks for watching Hans!
Easy wooden box
Thanks for the video! I'm wondering how you measure to set the proper placement of the fence. Would love to hear your advice on that and how to keep it parallel all the way across the table.
Very neat!! I enjoyed watching this video!!
Love it !! Thank you
guess what i'll be making at the weekend. Brilliant video. Thank you
Colin,..great video and small project. I'd like to make a few of these. There were a couple of measurements that weren't indicated with respect to setting up the router to make the rabbit cuts and then the slot cut with the spiral bit. What is the setup measurements on the router with the fence for the rabbits and also the fence setting for the slot cuts?....thanks again for a great instructional video! well done...
Cool ... love to see the results. Thanks for commenting
Colin
Working on it right now ... part 2 should be along in a few days. Thanks for taking the time to comment ... great to have you with us :)
Colin
How far down did you cut the slot? Good video!
Thanks a lot Colin! this video has great ideas, it opened my mind.
I like the little box. It will be a good project for summer when the kids are out of school. I will make up kits ready to assemble and finish for them. P.S. I can't access your web site woodworkweb
Great Router Videos Colin. I been following for a while. I love this project. When I get my table and new router set up, Im going to be giving this a try. Thanks for all the great videos and now im off to watch the next in line...lol
im interested too in seeing what you think about making a chess board, Ogee edges.... :D
Thanks, learning a lot from you.
Thank you and the shims are very helpful and measuring sticks sometimes I would have never thought of those things
eagles wings wood Thanks for commenting, glad you found some use from the video
+WoodWorkWeb: Colin, I used 1/2 inch wood for my box and I'm about to cut off the lid. Inside groove was made using a 3/8 inch straight bit since I didn't have a spiral bit handy. Here's my question: what should the height of the bit be when cutting off the top, bearing in mind I'm using 1/2 inch thick wood? I ask because your video shows you cutting all the way through for the top, but when you show the sample piece it looks like you only went halfway through the wood. Also, how far below the inside cut should the outside cut be? DIRECTLY below? Thanks in advance for the help. Peter
The inside and outside cuts for the lid and slightly deeper that about halfway through your wood, so in your case the depth wants to be 1/4" plus another ... 1/32 or so this will allow the box lid to drop down over the inside cut and make a nice fit.
The outside cut wants to be in that area below the inside cut and it should be about threequaters of the diameter of your bit, below the inside cut. so you said you were using a 3/8 straight bit, then the the edge of the top of that cut wants to fall just slightly above ... again my 1/32 -to 1/16 above the lower part of your inside cut. Hope I explained it well enough for you ... if not, email me
WoodWorkWeb Colin, thanks a million. That response answers all my questions. Just wanted to make sure I was getting my head around the depths and position of the outside cut. Thanks for the response and more so, thanks for responding so promptly. Your channel is one of the best and I thank you for all your videos and tips! Keep up the good work! Peter
Hi CW, yikes you have me at a disadvantage :) ... it's been so long since I made these boxes, that I can't remember, you could be right. I will have to go back check them out, BTW, did you check out the article on woodworkweb?, I'm pretty sure I put the dimensions on it there as well.
I will try and do that early next week for you.
Colin
Hi Colin I understand everything you do up until the last cut - I just cant understand how you can get the lid to come apart if you are only going part way thru. Are actually cutting the final groove so the bit just gets the bottom of the inside groove. Burt
Sometime (maybe you've done so already) a little closeup video on how to use the setup bars (stacking them, sliding one on top of another to check depth, etc.), please. I know how to use them, but would appreciate seeing any tricks you might add.
All this can be done with a table saw. But, it is cool.
I’m curious about the order in which you make all the cuts. If you cut the slot before cutting the four sides apart, wouldn’t that be quicker and more accurate? Likewise, rather than making 2 ends and 2 sides that are different, wouldn’t it be simpler and more symmetrical to make four identical sides, each with a single rabbet on the same edge?
So I have to ask... at the 8:01 mark you show/say to measure off the flat 'side' of the blade with the 4" spacer to get the necessary 4" cut. But why would we not be using the outside edge of that left side tooth to measure from instead, since that is where the blade is actually going to cut? I would think that by setting up the stop block off the flat 'side' of the blade (and not the edge of the tooth itself) would give you an actual length LESS than 4" (by half the thickness of the blade)...or am I missing something, and been doing it wrong all these years? I always use the outer edge of the outer tooth (on whichever side I'm cutting from) to determine the correct overall length (if that makes sense). I enjoyed the video but am a bit confused about how you're showing to set up the stop block here (to get exactly 4") since using the edge of the tooth with the 4" spacer block makes the only sense to me.
If only this made any sense! Damn imperial measurements! Great channel Colin! Love it! (except the damn measurements)
When you showed the ends dimensions, did you show the edges that have the rabbets in as the 4 "‘, and the sides that have no rabbet being 3 5/8 " ? Should that be the other way round? That is, the edges with the rabbets at 3 5/8" and the edges without the rabbets at 4 " ?
Was the spiral bit an up or down cut?
I couldn't find a button to download the plan. Did I miss it or wasn't it included?
Just curious, why use the spiral bit rather than a dado bit?
For a minute there I thought you were milling the box from 1 piece of 6 > 6... lol
Loved the video but am I the only one who can't find 3/8 inch thick lumber?
I've watched this video at least half a dz. times and still mess it up. I have taken notes and drawn pictures and still have problems. Do you have printed instructions?
Thank you for this video.
stephen dickinson Did you also check out the article on woodworkweb, that may be of some help, anyway, email me through woodworkweb, maybe we figure out whats going on
In this video no smile on your face.
When you measured your pieces with the guide stick, you didn't take into account the fact that you have carbide teeth on the saw blade. Where you measured on the blade with the guide stick was actually narrower than the thickness of the blade where the carbide teeth are.
Hi Bruce ... sorry, not following you, haven't done these boxes in a long long time so I can't remember the details, though I don't recall anyone else commenting on that point ... so perhaps they did make an adjustment, sorry I can't help off hand ...
bruce is right..you should have measured from the edge of the blade tooth not from the blade itself
+bruce1164 +Joe Duggan So the box came out wrong because of this error? Can you give me the timestamp in the video where I can see the box failing because of this? I sure don't want to make this devastating error when I try it.
+Josef Roesler At 8:00 he put the measuring stick against the blade it self, not the carbide teeth. The teeth stick out further sideways than the body of the blade. It's a small amount, but it could make a big difference when you are trying to achieve maximum accuracy.
+Josef Roesler I see your pissed off...haha..but if your happy doing it this way go for it dude...I was taught alway measure from the tooth not the blade..If you want your box 3 and 15/16 do it his way but if you want it 4 inches do it our way...box is a piece of s#&t anyway haha
You said on the video that the ends are 3 & 5/8 by 3 & 5/8. Aren't they actually 3 & 5/8 by 4 and do not have the rabbets on the sides
did I just watch a three card monte video?
I tried to make one but I forgot that the size of the sides and the ends are 3/8 " smaller at lenght :/ and I've maybe routed too much the rabetts too :/ For the followings I'll check twice ;) What an absent minded i am :p
Emilien Benard Hey ... know what? I have made my share of mistakes trying to make these too. It's not until I had made a few of them that I really started to get the hang of it :) Good on you for working on making these !!
You touched the router bit without unplugging the router. Why? Chop saws must turn themselves on but routers don't.
He's Canadian, eh?
Ben Press I'm just teasing him a little bit. I truly enjoy his videos.
Ed Waggoner Sr. If I unplugged everything before adjusting things I'd never get anything done. I'd spend all day plugging and unplugging things.
Sometimes you just have to take a chance in life. ;)
That intro sound is from halo 3
intro and title is a bit misleading, I was expecting you to actually make the box with the router.
Why do all woodworkers say width and heighth? It’s just width and height 😊
Pro ject
By that way of thinking, if you cut all the pieces to build a house from one tree, you could say it was a one piece house.
wwwadhvnim
Way too long video.