S4 E8. We install an AMR500 supercharger on the Kubota diesel powered Honda Insight.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- Season 4 Episode 8. Jimbo installs an AMR500 supercharger on a 719cc Kubota diesel engine. This complex upgrade is made simple with a few custom made parts. How much boost will the supercharger make? Tune in and find out.
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Jimbo
Robot Cantina
207 S. Sedgwick Ave
P.O. Box 28
Haven KS, 67543 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Diesels really dont require bov's/ dumps to atmosphere. i work as a diesel semi truck mechanic and they dont use them. boost at idle is not necessarily ideal per se but not the end of the world either. as long as your EGT's are stable, cylinder pressure is in safe range, and you have enough fuel its not a problem. Diesels LOVE extra oxygen.
I got the feeling he wants to bleed off an excess of boost, not to blow off spikes or whatever it is called.
My BMW m57 makes a few psi of boost at idle it's not an issue imho, arguably it's desirable as your Increasing the compression ratio and giving more oxygen to boot. Will make for better emission at idle.
I would say his ultimate fear is blowing a head gasket. Which would be anyone's concern with too much boost.
The only thing that can happen is if you really crank the boost is you end up too lean at idle and have a misfire. That's at the edge of what can happen but it is possible.
Timothybayliss6680, please refresh your knowledge on diesels. They can safely run very lean. 80:1 is ok for an air:fuel ratio.
Don't fear the boost. I'd leave the pullies alone but only make fuel adjustments from this point forward to achieve whatever results you're after. But I am just a random guy from the Internet.
If I'm thinking right, won't the boost be dependent mainly on RPM and not load for the s/c? So, the max boost could be checked revving while stationary, and it should actually drop some under load at the same RPM due to increased volume consumed by engine? All that to say that I think the boost will actually drop under load vs while parked, unlike a turbo, but I could be wrong.
@@smokesandalloy9487 for the most part you're correct. This supercharger is positive displacement meaning it can only push X amount of CFM per rotor rotation, and an engine's cylinder can consume only Y amount of air per stroke. So once you're off idle with this diesel, boost should remain the same up to redline, barring things like cam overlap or something of that nature that probably doesnt apply here. So the 10 or 11psi we saw when he revved it should be the same up to redline, regardless of engine load. Boost is a waste value, a measurement of the air the engine cannot consume.
@@bobirving6052 that makes sense, although I don't expect the dip to be drastic. Hopefully Jimbo will split screen boost to RPM and do a thorough pull though the rev range so we can see
@GTkyle
At peak torque, intake manifold pressure should be it’s lowest. The supercharger should increase output almost linearly, but the intake’s inertial mechanism will get the air into the cylinders more efficiently at the sweet spot where you get most torque.
Edit: I realized this theory is not true. The supercharger’s output can increase faster than the engine’s intake, depending on pulley size. So pressure could increase or decrease as rpm increases. There will just be a pressure drop around peak torque.
Boost could be a problem at higher rpms, one, for the afr, but more so two, for the skinny belt. You don't want that belt under too much tension.
Boost at idle is common on supercharged diesel engines. 15 years ago or so, I built a twin turbo + whipple 24V Cummins pickup. It made 8PSI at idle. The idle boost is a non-issue. If the boost while revving get's into an uncomforable zone, a pulley change is likely the best and easiest solution. If you can't figure out the crank situation, maybe you can change the pulley on the stupidcharger.
I think I've seen that truck. Was it white?
@@KRRZ350 nah mate, it was red with hello kitty stickers all over. It also was rolling on thirteen inch gold Dayton's.
Its funny how being around the channel long enough makes unique statements sound normal "you may recall how I installed a stupidcharger on a twostoke leafblower motor and used it to power a.... "
I hope *Future Jimbo* sees this. You should be able to get rid of the *Flutter* in the boost gauge needle by adding a type of inline restriction. Basically slowing the boost down to the gauge. This "should" work. Cool project.
Also known as a gauge snubber, for easier researching
Yep, Optimal Welding did this when he turbo’d his welder and it fixed it
@@davismccoy77when he turbo'ed his what?
I had success with a DIY dampener that was just a plug of loose cotton pulled from a Q tip and stuffed in the line behind the manual boost gauge.
@@somedude2492 A lot of electric welders are essentially standalone generators with live wires you handle. This is to avoid needing to put in a heavy duty fuse in the building it's in. He turboed the generator for the welder.
What most people don't understand is that boost is a measure of restriction. If you have a turbo or supercharger that is producing 8 lbs of boost, then you change the heads, intake, or anything else in the system, your boost will likely not be the same after, because you are changing the amount of air in/out in some way. If your boost drops, that is because it is better flowing, and you can then change your pulley to increase it back up to your previous amount, basically increasing the overall power at the "same" boost level
Jimbo, I am sure, will heed your comment - its looking at the issue from another perpective and that usually produces a deeper understanding and better solutions.
Your boost can also drop simply by adding an intercooler which will reduce the air pressure while increasing the manifold air density and power. The restriction isn't the only factor in that number. Banks goes on and on about manifold air density, and it makes a lot of sense.
@@Sevalecan Obviously, there are other factors than *just* restriction, but it is the largest one. I was keeping it simple. There are engine builders on TH-cam you can learn more about it from them. Steve Morris or Pete Harrell for example have some good videos on it, that cover quite a bit about turbo & supercharger builds
Exaxctly! Up to a limit, and that's usually the mass flow limit of the compressor, no matter if it's a supercharger or a turbocharger. On a crappy flowing 2.0L engine, one compressor may produce 1 bar of boost and not heat up, while on another 2.0 properly flowing engine, it may barely produce 0.5 bar of boost and heat up.
Awesome work as usual. Thanks for the entertainment. The gauge is fluttering with the pulse of the supercharger lobes and the intake valves. Roots blowers by design have a high and low output as the lobes cover the suction and discharge during each displacement event, similar to a workshop air compressor. To even out the pulse, the only option is to install a large plenum. This will absorb the fluctuations, but it's really not going to make a world of difference.
These little kubota engines don't flow much air, so 10psi is showing you the restriction. If the engine had improved breathing, the pressure would drop. The other consideration is after adding an intercooler, the pressure will drop again once passed through the heat exchanger.
my favorite part of the weekend! Thanks for the fun videos Jimbo!
Glad you enjoy it!
Install your intercooler. It will drop the boost a tiny bit and cool the charge, making it safer all around. Then SEND IT!
Agreed. I am sure it would be the "Banks Power" recommendation as well.
Simple fix for the boost meter. Put a restrictor with a hole of approx 2 mm in the hose. It evens out the pressure fluctuations.
Send it! Blow-off valves are overrated.
Gasoline engines need it
@@juhomaki-petajano they don’t
@@MyLonewolf25 study some more and understand what is happening in blower gas engines...
@@MyLonewolf25 Without a blow off or recirculation valve a positive displacement blower builds pressure in the charge pipe before the throttle body which will heat soak the blower and intercooler if it has one.
source: my eaton m90 supercharged rx7
@@Mrshotshell heat soak?, pfff. 10psi is for rookies, and Jimbo is not a rookie.
From my experience Kabota (well, most manufacturers of) diesels have sturdy block and head construction and I’d keep a close eye on the EGTs since heat will likely destroy the engine before cylinder pressure will. Oh and I guessed 5psi at idle but the was just a guess based off your comment after squeezing the charge pipe. No math, just lucky lol.
My understanding is egts and cylinder head temps are the point where when they get too hot they like to drop valve seats. But beyond that I've seen plenty of em with thousands of hours of abuse, I assume it would be fine for quite some time if pushed a little
Man! These big budget shows always leave you on the edge of your seat wanting more! That’s how they keep you coming back! I was not expecting 6 psi at idle. But I also don’t know much about superchargers either.
Can’t wait for the test drive!
Note to Present Jimbo, please buy Future Jimbo a cool beverage. Your tenacity, attention to detail and knowledge is superlative.
The suspense. KILLING ME !!
DRIVE IT. Lol. pleESE.
Jim- I think a useful metric for this process would be a thermocouple placed after the charger. You get a really effective cooling and atomization effect from the gasoline on the carburetor application, but superchargers make a ton of heat themselves, even before the heat gain from compression. With no evaporative cooling on the diesel, I'd theorize you're getting a decent amount of boost only from expansion, but the actual density of the charge is far from that of ambient air at ambient temperatures.
I think you're seeing at least 60 degrees of temp rise between ambient and after the charger, so that shoud account for roughly 2psig by itself. Venting would disproportionately reduce your efficency, as you're still paying the price to compress and heat the air, to then dump it overboard.
Solutions may include an aftercooler, water meth, and reducing the drive speed of the charger to better match the air requirements of the engine.
I recommend caution going above 10psi on this, as factory turbo kubotas dont run much more pressure than that sustained, and those are built for it.
So, how are you going to get that 10psig to be as cold and dense as possible?
I'm making this comment about 4 minutes in, so sorry if you cover it later in the video. This is how I equate it. The old saying "there is no replacement for displacement" still stands true in a sense. This is because by bosting engines, we are in effect increasing the amount of air and fuel that engine can displace into an engine on every intake stroke. The more fuel air/fuel we can et in, the more power we can get out. Turbocharging and supercharging are using devices that allow us to squeeze more bang into every revolution. Turbocharging and supercharging are how we increase the fuel displacement of an engine. What this has done to my thinking is changed how I calculate engines in my mind. A naturally aspirated engine us under the force of ambient barometric pressure, which is 14.7psi. 14.7psi 1 1 bar, or 1 atmosphere. If you have 21 atmospheres, you have double the volume of air in the same space. Metric makes so much more sense in this case. When you put 14.7psi of boost to an engine, you have the 14.7psi (1 atmosphere) from ambient pressure, and another one from the boost. You are doubling the volume of the air, and when air/fuel ratios are correct, you have double the air/fuel mixture. You are in in effect turning a 731cc diesel engine into a 1462cc engine that weighs less than a typical 1462cc engine. 14.7psi of with no adjustment for intake and exhaust restrictions, is doubling the power that can be generated from that air/fuel mixture charge. The difference is, you don't have the additional rotating mass and other factors that rob power in an engine that has a physical cylinder displacement of 1462cc. Boost makes engines have a higher displacement, but don't have a heavier engine mass that they have to rotate, and they don't have to carry that extra weight. With that, boosting an engine can be more efficient at generating power. You can calculate if it's more efficient by calculating the fuel consumption against the horsepower, and comparing the result of the naturally aspirated engine against the result of the boosted engine.
I find this way of looking at engines helps me wrap my head around the expected torque and horsepower values. It makes more sense in my mind, I hope it maybe helps some other people visualize it too.
I'm one of your less technical TH-cam channel followers, so I'm going to have to give you the "Send it as is, YOLO!" response that you're probably not looking for.
But, seriously, it's time to embrace your inner Cleetus McFarland. Give it ALL the boost, if it blows, it blows!
Since he got another engine 😂
As much as I want him to Do it for Dale, ole Cleet has a budget to work with, that a lot of folks don't. A replacement d722 last I seen for a decent unit was at least a couple grand.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 Good point, it'd be different if we could donate/join a channel membership to support some crazier projects.
Believe it or not these Kubota diesels are a lot more expensive than a junk yard 5.3. Like many multiples we're talking.
For context I just found a new reman unit for sale in Texas for $4500.
At last, the Mazda 626 Comprex has finally got a spiritual offspring ^^
Like the profile picture
@@kansasadventure1831 Thanks, it's the cover of Iron Butterfly's first LP "Heavy" released 4 months before In A Gadda Da Vida.
For the lost gauge fluctuations. You can rip the cotton off a cotton swab. Jam it in the line close to your gauge. Not block it but put a decent amount in. Helps with the flutter.
Is this a permafix or just a bodge job?
Don't worry about excessive boost. Just keep your fuel on the level you want to and extra air will give you less smoke.
Aside from afr, he needs to make sure the skinny belt doesn't get under too much tension.
As a big horsepower overcompensating track rat… God I just LOVE everything this channel stands for.
that thing is already running so fast there appeared to be doppler distortion around the license plate. 10 psi & you're going into orbit.
I'd leave the boost as is. Maybe put an intake temp sensor in there to see if you need an intercooler. The gauge moving around was from the intake valves closing, BTW. Keep up the great work. This is fascinating. I used to work on these diesel generators all the time, in large light-alls. I always wondered what it would be like in a go cart or something.
I think your work is very impressive , heck i figured you were a mechanical engineer. i love these projects
Jimbo, opposite to a gasser, excess air is not a problem for a diesel. Over fueling (rich) cooks the oil motor, under fueling (lean) cooks a gasser. Your extra boost at idle might increase NOX output (not enough carbon for the oxygen, so it bonds to nitrogen instead), but it wont damage the mill. Btw, i guessed 7 psi at idle, lol. I also saw your old "launch" vids showed "coal" at launch and first shift, so id say send her as she lies now, then worry about adding fuel if you need it. She may well surprise ya! Sweet mod job, just add a tin firewall between the blower and exhaust downpipe, just like a 22ga panel to reflect radiant heat (could even glue alum foil shiney side out on the pipe side for style points, lol)
this channel consistently does the things I've dreamed of but no longer have the health to do myself. its fantastic to watch!
I have no idea what you should do. Jimbo, but I can tell you that you are my hero.
Really enjoy the series
Sunday morning is now complete. The experiments are the best part, I am not addicted to Robot Cantina at all....☕️. Now that I have watched another great episode, I can head out to the shop and work on my project. Great work. Waiting (patiently) for the test drive.
10:19- YES! THANK YOU!! My 4 year old and I giggle at it
Hi Robot. I should have said that long ago:
I had this silly challenge when I was younger of making as much distance as possible with a stock old 206 peugeot with a 1.4l HDI motor. I did 1300km with 45liters of fuel.
For conversion that's like 68 mpg, the car already had 125 000km on it at the time (or 77 700 miles) the tires were over inflated and it was a company car so no backseat. The car was from 2003 maybe
I was a bit reckless at times to brake as little as possible and accelerating slowly.
I got 1200 km's from the south of France to Luxembourg (where fuel is cheap ;)), with the same car model and engine. We took the all toll-free road, so a lot of 80 km/h driving with a hot engine, which turned out to be very efficient. No modifications to the car were needed.
This, as a fuel consumption number aficionado, is the kind of story I like to hear. Well done.
Most small-ish diesel cars can get about 3.5l/100km when driven at their most economical speed on favorable roads.
I have never owned such a small diesel car to be involved in pushing for great numbers, though I have driven my larger cars quite a bit under their "extra-urban" EU fuel rating.
my 1.4L D-4d toyota gets approx 72mpg so 68 on a 1.6L is solid
My recommendation would be to try a 1:1 pulley ratio or even a slight underdrive. Also, maybe you can use that electric dump valve to vent boost at zero throttle using a normally closed switch that opens when the throttle is depressed.
The only bad thing about making boost at idle on a diesel is the heat generated. On a gas engine it would be generating even more boost in the charge pipe before the throttle body
@@Mrshotshell agreed. I'm just thinking about during times when the engines idling and it's putting needless stress on the supercharger it might be beneficial to allow the engine to just idle it atmospheric pressure and vent the Boost that the compressor is making.
The engine is a big restriction to the supercharger and why the boost is so high at idle
The Subaru engine even if it's 660cc like the Kubota engine make 3x as much power so it way more efficient and less restrictions on the supercharger
if the supercharger make 1000cc every rotation and the engine need 500cc the engine would be in boost vs a engine that need 2000cc of air would be in vacuum at idle
With a 1:1 pulley you can see the second example would never make boost if the engine need 2000cc per rev and the supercharger give 1000cc per rev plus volumetric efficiency vary with rpm/engine design
Root type supercharger are constant displacement and rated by how many liter per rev they displace
Boost is complicated lol
Excellent video!!! Can't wait for the final results on this once everything is sorted.🆒😎💪!
Hip hip hooray for Robot cantina!! thank you sir
My favorite episodes are adding the boost. Here we go. Great job, as always. 😎👍🏼
Banks "lockjaw" build is a Whipple supercharged duramax so it's a bit similar. They had to run a bypass valve for idle because it was building up way too much heat. Any time you have pressure in the intake work is being done to compress the air and adding heat.
Wouldn't an intercooler fix a bunch of that?
@@kd5inm The intercooler would cool the intake charge going into the engine, but it wouldn't stop the supercharger from overheating.
In fact the added restriction woukd exacerbate the problem at idle/low load.
He could try water injection pre-supercharger.
But, he would be better off reducing the output of the supercharger.
Or bypassing excess air to keep the supercharger from overheating due to the excess pressure/restriction at idle.
It’s probably not a problem. He’s been having trouble building enough heat to get the engine up to operating temperature.
@@jjsledneck Sure the water temperature, but the temperature of the supercharger itself may become a problem, especially if it continues to make more boost (due to the lack of flow) through the rev range.
Without a Compressor Map we dont know how far outside its efficiency range it would be.
It might see 15+ psi at higher rpm without making changes.
Queen said it best-
"Pressure pushin' down on me
Pressin' down on you, no man ask for
Under pressure that brings a building down
Splits a family in two, puts people on streets
Mm-ba-ba-beh, mm-ba-ba-beh
Dee-day-da, ee-day-da
That's okay"
Send the pressure and don't worry about the family of parts getting split in two. it's OK.
so glad this channel exists, this is the kinda stuff id like to be goofing around with if i had the means
If you could engineer a suitable leak you would reduce boost pressure, just not sure if you can engineer a precise enough and consistent leak. Maybe just add pinholes until you get the desired boost.
I once had a side hole. Then my main hole found out. Didn't turn out well.
lol... :)
My Sunday is great, thanks Jimbo!
That's boost baby 👍💪✌
Wow that's way more boost than I expected too. Don't think it would hurt anything as diesels like to run lean. It would sure help keep the EGT's and soot down at the same time. All-in-all, I think it would work out fine. Hopefully, you can sneak the intercooler in somehow. Can't wait to see how she'll run. Nice work Jimbo!! 💪🔥
With the drive belt I would look to see if there was one in the same size for running lawnmower blades. Those are v-belts and they run on the back side of the idler. The idler pulley does also have flanges to keep from throwing the belt off.
I can't believe it's time!!!!! I have waited to see this for ages!!!!!
Very tight packaging, great work!
I would't worry about the blow off valve unless you are trying to get all the mpgs. Props for acually describing the role of the blower in gm two cycle diesels (51,53,71,92,110[some of them],149,567,645)
Banks Power has a series of videos that goes into great depth how supercharging a 4 stroke diesel works. Like SUPER depth like measuring combustion chamber pressure and in/out heat etc. It can work great, but you will want good intercooling.
God I love this project and channel so much. You deserve a Patreon or something. I keep recommending everybody into cars or mechanical stuff to come watch Jimbo over here. Really the peak of any Sunday. You're definitely no idiot honestly.
I love how when you look at the supercharger pulley-forward, it looks like it's sporting a black monocle and a comically small top hat!
Absolutely love your videos. Watching them makes my day
You are so kind
I have no idea if that pressure is safe or not, but I'm fascinated to see how this project progresses. Great job on everything you've done so far! Thanks for bringing us along on this journey!
The belt shouldn't be an issue, Dodge put a v belt with a similar idler on a 1976-1978 Plymouth Volare/Dodge Aspen Slant 6 AC system. So I converted my friend's slant 6 with a similar AC setup I made myself. To be fair, Chrysler DID change it by the time the car was done with in 1980.
Just what I've been waiting for! Can't wait to see the development on this thing. Might even copy it with a project of my own. Super cool. Look forward to next weeks video!
I love this channel so much!! He makes you think outside the box, which is great!
Hi Jimbo. As you probably know, the most numerous forced-induction 2-stroke diesels are the GM/EMD multi-cylinder units used in railway locomotives. These have an overhead camshaft actuating the fuel injector and 4 poppet exhaust valves instead of piston exhaust ports. Both exhaust scavenging AND intake air density are greatly improved.
A lot of older cars and trucks that used v-belts and had a bunch of accessories that need belt drive often had two pulleys on one or more of those accessories. That way you had one belt with good engagement on the crank and one drive pulley, then another belt drives another accessory off of the first one, ensuring positive belt engagement for all drive pulleys, and no need for idlers pushing the v-belts in the wrong direction. As for the boost at idle, I don't know if a blow off is really necessary being that it's a diesel, but it may be possible to electronically actuate one using something simple like a switch on the gas pedal.
A blow off would be more to protect the supercharged than the engine lot of heat at idle making that much boost
The engine seem to be a big restriction for the supercharged and the reason the boost is so high at idle
More restrictions equal more boost at the same air volume
The original Subaru engine may be the same 660cc size but is clearly way more efficient/less restrictive
And make 3x as much as this 20 HP engine
Hey Jimbo. The boost needle jumps with the pulsing of the supercharge/ intake opening and closing.. you can choke it with a little valve they use for fish tank bubblers and adjust it till it's relatively stable😊
I love how you clarify the reasoning of why you choose to do things the way you do and make your future intent on improving the hardware clear .. Your videos are exactly the type of content that interest me and every time I watch one I get closer to buying a lathe
U make my weekend better
Great video update on this amazingly intresting project. Cant wait to see the acceleration test.
Bravo! Great work and results, more, more!
I absolutely love your content. Thanks for creating and posting!. Your awesome 👍🏻😎.
Good stuff, Jimbo. Thanks for the video. 👍
You've got a spare motor, send it!
I am so happy to see this, amazing work my friend I love superchargers
Have a look at the Sporlan/Parker stepper motor regulator. "Electric Regulator Valve - CDS Series" You can get one and a control board that will take 4-20 mA for a control signal and a motor that will run on 12V. These are used in refrigeration. With one of these and you're control skills you can do whatever you want with the boost. There are mechanical options in the refrigeration world but they don't offer the easy to change capabilities electronics offer.
Woo! Gonna make some popcorn to watch this with, I'm stoked!
Keep it up Jimbo. Always informative. Looking forward to seeing the other Honda on the road. As well as the Peugeot.
If it's a concern... I'd swap the pulley on the supercharger for something a little larger... But as long as blower rpm is in the safe limits for the unit, I wouldn't worry about it. As you said.. diesels are controlled by fuel.. not air. Can't have too much air... Only too little. Cylinder pressure is created by fuel and timing. The little bit of pressure added to the cylinder by the supercharger won't hurt anything... even at idle.
I recommend the book "Supercharged! Design, Testing, and Installation" by Corky Bell. Its a fantastic read and will really help on determining flow, heat, turbulence, pulley calculations, after-cooling etc. The man is a LEGEND in the boosted community back before turbo or supercharger kits were available. Love the vids! keep it up! I'm thinking you need to make a bigger SC pulley to reduce boost and a bypass valve....or modify an AC clutch pulley for the SC and rig up a clutch magnet actuator computer or switch that runs off fuel pedal position or RPM activated. Boost at idle is a no-no and it becomes a hot air blower and risk damaging the SC at anything over 8 psi. Best of luck!
Way to go, Jimbo. Love your work 👍
You videos like this are becoming my most enjoyed on TH-cam... so cool
Keep it around 14.5 psi for the stock block. Then pull the crank bearings after a few test drives. Soft and hard driving.
Check the clearances, and then check the head for any damage. If it’s all still within spec, add some slightly bigger injectors. 100-150cc larger, and keep the boost at the same level.
Fuel is a great way to keep the engine cool under boost.
Spark ignition runs cooler when it's richer, the opposite is true for diesels.
Always great to see a new episode and seeing 2 Ze1 is wonderful
I'm really curious on the next step of the DIY brake booster system. If it works, I'm going to copy it for my project.
We made a second video on the DIY brake booster system and we eliminated the chatter with a programmable delay relay. After shooting that video we found a compact programmable delay relay that completely simplifies the whole system. we will do another update soon.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. Love the projects.
Allways a pleasure to see you post your next video, I would like to see a small multi Diesel engine in a motorbike frame ,if for no other reason than to see people's reactions when you fill up !
As others have pointed out, 6 psi at idle may not be a problem. You need to run and/or drive through the engine's operating range and see what peak boost looks like and then judge if it needs be controlled.
I'm another random guy from the internet, and have no forced-induction experience. I do have decades of experience in building naturally aspirated 2 and 4 stroke engines (mostly for kart racing), and raced for 20 years myself. Racing vehicles being just a rolling physics experiment themselves, lessons were learned along the way.
The primary lesson is - don't cure symptoms, cure problems. If it proves boost must be reduced do so by engineering a proper drive setup for the supercharger that optimizes the speed of the blower through a revised effective drive ratio. As you've pointed out in many of your videos compressors heat their output as a by-product of the compression process, so you don't want to run the blower too fast and then bleed of its output, even if it seems easier than implementing an engineered and sustainable accessory drive.
You've proven the supercharger is viable in the application - you need to move directly to improving its implementation rather than spending time and effort band-aiding symptoms created by limitations of the current implementation.
I love the way your mind works, Jim!
I highly recommend an AirLift type tool for servicing the cooling system. It’s a Venturi tool that runs off compressed shop air to draw a vacuum for leak checking / air removal, and then break the vacuum with coolant. Makes refilling the system with no air bubbles a VERY fast and easy process. I believe Harbor Freight sells a version of the tool now.
No advice, I'm just impressed as always.
more power, you need to get boost at idol to at least 20PSI 🤘🤣
Hey Jimbo! Fun, entertaining, and educational!
When I saw you video image I thought you mounted the engine in front of the car. LOL. I was like, that' different.
LOL, that would be different.
I haven’t watched the video yet and I already liked it
I've always wanted to see a roots blower with a variator drive on a diesel. The thought of the blower being on the same constant speed could be very interesting. Just peak torque all the time and a boost curve like a table top. I always enjoy your experiments, keep it up!
You have an interesting situation, two positive displacement devices, engine and blower, butting heads. The manifold pressure is only function of rpm, independent of the load. That is, it will be increasing proportional with rpm no risk of runaway boost. Pressure will likely drop with the addition of an intercooler. For now I would install an EGT sensor and boost gauge and do some testing
With a 1:1 ratio you'd have about 5.1 lb of boost with that setup (at speed). Expect around 3lb at low speed due to the additional parasitic blowby.
Back-calculating I'd say you are currently running a 1:1.25 overdrive ratio.
Needle bouncing is expected since the plenum chamber volume is quite low in your setup.
Did a lot of these calculations when I put an Eaton M45 on my 800cc Suzuki, also ethanol efi. Let me know if you want numbers done. 👍
Thanks for another great video Jimbo! Don't mind any critics you're doing great. Personally I'd say take it for a drive. As long as your egt stays low it should be fine.
Another exciting episode leaving us biting out nails awaiting the next 'will it or won't it.' Sometimes the suspense overwhelming. For putting a flat spot to accommodate a crush washer at the hole on the side of the case 12:20, you might beg, borrow, or buy a piloted counterbore.
Not sure why people insist on pointing out stuff they THINK is wrong when it takes a two second google search to see that in reality they are the ones that are wrong. It’s totally fine to use a tensioner on a v belt to have the belt bend backwards some. It’s been implemented on many designs in the past.
I have nothing intelligent to add except, I love your videos. I am trying to tune my 1973 Toyota Corolla with the 3TC engine that's turbocgarged and runs on propane. You give me hope.
Really cool man. Looking forward to hear it whine.
Brilliant channel.
Love your polite anti troll comments.
Good luck
YESSSS WE WERE WAITING
Things I learned about roots blowers. They are constantly making boost and that means heat. They pump in a ton of heat. Enough heat to make less power than running NA. Don’t cheap out on the intercooler.
You’ll want a bypass valve to kill the boost at idle. This will help with the heat. Just set up a push switch that opens the valve. Have the switch replace your idle control screw.
I think a mini CVT drive for the stupidcharger so that it boosts low at idle but also can do 45psi at top speed. Variable drive ratios fix everything, and that belt isn't abused enough yet.
Squeezing the hose I guessed 5psi and amazed to see the needle bounce between 5-7 at idle. LET'S GO!!!
Your content is so awesome. The experiments thoroughly entertain and bewilder me. And your aloofness adds so much comic relief. Can't wait till next Sunday.
Another banger thank you good sir