Hahaha delicious savagery! Maybe some new buttons and an LCD display that says 'Get fucked, Gearbest!' on every button press might be a nice custom feature.
For anyone wanting to do midi projects, i recommend using a microcontroller with native usb capabilities. Those are recognized straight away by the software you're using. Also they are recognized by android devices, ic you play with synthesizers apps. BTW great video!
@@piefadase It's not too bad. Some websites sell 10 switches for $10. For a typical 104 key keyboard, that's $110. The launchpad he used in this video is about $100, so it should cost about the same as this video.
@@piefadase you dont have to buy exactly cherries.. there are chinese switches that are "fake" cherry and they are okay.. i use outemu brown and it works like it should so it can be cheap
HI, I have made a few midi devices and had a few suggestions and comments if you do not mind. I would aways suggest using a teensy when working with midi as it has midi built in with a very good library of commands. When working with midi and addressable leds I would try to avoid neo pixel style leds as they can cause problems with timming, so I found using spi based addressable led like the apa102 with fastled work a lot better and are a lot quicker and this will help reduce latency. My last one is the buttons you chose need a lot of force to press and you will find using them tiring compared to a good tactile switch designed for a lighter touch. Now I did very much like the enclosure and the button mat you made, I thought the actual design was very good and as always an excellent video from you. To take this to the next stage I would add a routine that can switch on the led with commands from the midi software and not just from the keypresse. The teensy library had a routine called on note on and on note off that would handle all midi commands coming in and then you just need to switch on or off the correct led. Using velocity you could change the brightness or colour.
An arduino micro would also work as it also uses a mcu with USB support. I think it's the atmega32u2 on that board. You can get that board way cheaper :-).
Hi, one question, couple of years ago I thought about making 1 little drum device but I never got time. Now I have more free time, do you think I will be able to use piezo sensors to track not just the state, but the amount of force used? Or is there any better option?
I only understand about a 10th of what you're talking about in your vids but I always learn something and do enjoy watching even though you're talking over my head the whole time. Keep up the good work.
GreatScott!, I've been watching you forever, and this may seem like strange critique, but in every video with your great hand-drawn diagrams, you seem to be using a water soluble black pen that bleeds when highlighted. Faber-Castell make water safe archival ink artist pens that are great for situations like this, and I've been using them for art and writing for years for their integrity when wet! Similar archival artist pens should have the same properties (sakura pigma etc.)
I'm electrical engineer student and I do al lof of musical stuff. playing instrumen, producing, mixing... etc. I'm very impressed with your work that mixes music with engineering because I'm into it.
@@rvbxn04 In Trial it would say "(Trial)" after the plugin name. Not too unlikely that someone who spent $70 on a MIDI controller and then another $40 on components to build his own would spend $75-150 on music software though.
I think "buy" wins due to limitations of the "diy" presents. The most fundamental is with that button configuration you cant push more than 1 button at the same time and that means no chords.
@@joeykapi - yep, I didn't recognize that the scanning scheme would allow for the identification of what buttons were whenever pressed at the same time. My mistake
I watch these videos, I don't completely understand them as I've not had the fortune of learning electronics (yet) but i love it because it's so interesting to see someone make something out of nothing.
Luus135 A 4017 Johnson counter could do the 10 row scanning with one switch and two pins (clock and reset). Extending it to the 20x20 matrix to control one switch and 3 LEDs in each position of a 10x10 matrix (8x8 plus side buttons) would probably need a different counter chip. A 50-output row counter (2 μC pins) and, 2 sense column inputs and 6 LED driving outputs could do the whole matrix with 10 μC pins, with 20μs to process each row. For bonus, add force sensing button arrangements at the cost of more complex buttons and much faster scanning (as you now need to measure the time between each button reaching two depths). This becomes the velocity number in MIDI and changes how loud each sound is.
Guys do you know sites, blogs, threads etc. on that which you would recommend to beginners? I'm looking for a while for a way to use several buttons on in best case one pin, I'm using the oneWireKeypad-Library for Arduino, it works but I'm not really satisfied with this, a hardware solution would be better.
Nice video, definitely got me thinking about a few things for some projects I'm working on! Though, you could also, if you had used an Arduino with the ATmega32u4 chip, had set up your Arduino as an HID controller to emulate a keyboard, or even make it as a USB-Midi device directly using the MIDIUSB library. This works because the 32u4 chip has built in USB support, and can therefore act as a range of different USB devices.
Thanks for a great episode, I really think the DIY version would be a great addition for sat a large scale art project. Using MIDI as a way to communicate with other components of the project. But for actual music creation a professional solution would probably be best.
It's worth noting that you need to set the baud rate to 9600 in the "Hairless Midi" software settings under File > Preferences. Otherwise it will say "unexpected byte"
@@KACPER050599 If someone could assemble something like this,then i'm sure he/she could operate a indicator lightand exercise basic safety rules. However,i would not be messing with mains voltage with a project like this because you will never have a reliable welder at hand,it will overheat or short out or whatever when you need it most. And also,it is a big fire risk. Perhaps buy a welder and then use it to pay it back off?
That would be quite a dangerous and complicated project... I don't think that is in the scope of what his channel is about. To me his channel is about getting beginners interested in electronics and providing them with the information and motivation to actually get started. Not anything highly detailed and specific, but things that can be applied to a multitude of projects. In my opinion, if you don't know enough to build one from scratch on your own, it probably means you're not ready to mess around with anything like that yet.
IIRC, doesn't the Launchpad do note velocity? This is something the DIY solution does not have... I do like the idea it can act as a general input device... For this I use additional software with my LaunchKey and Pad.
I was thinking the same thing. I have a cheapo Korg drumpad and it features velocity, hold/roll/flam... Also the way he is multiplexing... couldnt it mess up if he played more than one button at the same time?
@@Chaoddity Admittedly I don't know anything about this. But I was just thinking of how this could be done "in general" . And if I'm not mistaken, this(his) method is that the "pad" is polling/scanning "row by row" (or column by column). And keys that are pressed on the "currently scanned" row (or column) are "read out" (and stored or "sent out") before jumping to the next row (or column) to "read out" the keys pressed in that one. If this is how it's done, You "simply" avoid collisions by only actually "reading out" 1 row at a time. And since every "key" in a row is a member of a unique column, You simply check "which columns" that have registered "presses"...And other keys in that column can not "interfere" because they are not in the "scanned" row. ((or vice versa if You scan "columns" instead of rows)) The downside to this method is of course that it "splits" it's "scanning frequency" over how many rows (or columns) You "scan" possibly demanding a very high "scanning rate". Since it has to be able to scan off every row (or column) in a time short enough to actually make it feel like You can strike and release multiple keys simultaneously (e.g. a "chord"). And it must feel as if they can be "struck" and released as "1 movement" , and not that You feel as if You have to "hold" the "cord" to avoid the "pad" missing to "read" one of the pressed keys... At least that's what I believe... Apologies for my verbose attempt at explaining how I think it (could) works. Best regards
@@GglSux That is correct. He should have no issues detecting multiple key presses after the diode mod. Scanning rate should not be a problem either. The lack of velocity is the flaw of this design. (Let alone aftertouch...)
The Launchpad wins this round but an updated diy version of yours could win the next round. Other comments mention polyphonic output and velocity sensitive buttons on the original? Those really up the game! I'd also like after after touch for vibrato style playing but a wiggle bar on the side is just as musical and easier and cheaper to build. Some mentioned an app on a tablet instead. I much prefer buttons to a tablet screen and maybe the answer is a hybrid of the two? A tablet digitizer with a printed button array over the top. Those after market digitizers for fixing broken tablets are getting cheap! I like your version with less buttons from a players perspective. Bigger buttons and more space let your fingers dance out grooves with less mistakes. Another thing I like about a diy version is I can print out different keyboard layouts to suit my needs. A specialized drum pad, a piano keyboard layout, a guitar neck layout etc. And the basic electronics and software remains the same. Bravo. Well done Sir...
I'm Musician not electronic engineer so I prefer buy it for 20 dollars more (less in euros) but it was very interresting to see you built it I say in French "BRAVO ! YOU'VE MADE A VERY GOOD WORK"
Did a similar thing with arcade switches! Made for much easier 3d modeling :P Now I"m making devices with knobs, banks and LEDS to use for myself. I think DIY is the winner because what you end up with can be very specialized for your own purpose, as well as cheap, so you're not spending money on features you don't need
@@urugulu1656 I believe that you refer to the cheap Chinese digital calipers - I own one for a few years, and first year I was frustrated as f*ck, given the fact how fast that crap consumed batteries even while not turned on. Quick googling later I found out that there is a design flaw in all these cheap calipers, that drains the battery even when off. What I did was simply disassembled the plastic part where the display and circuit board is found, cut one of the traces from the battery to chip, installed a small DIP push button, drilled a small hole in the plastic for the tip of button to stick out, and hotglued it in place. Works like a charm! I used like three pairs of batteries in first year. Now it's year 4 on the same batteries and no worries!
@Artūrs Savickis Ha! I did the same thing last year because I got sick of trying to find a cheap unit that didn't use that same board/chipset/bug combo. The actual bug is that if the calliper registers any change in measurement (while "powered off") it will trigger the soft power-on - and as these aren't exactly the most precise instruments of their ilk, you can turn it off with the soft power-off switch while it is reading 0.00mm, wave it around in the air like a magic wand for a few seconds, and see it power back up because it is now reading that "new" measurement of 0.00mm … because like a lot of cheap digital scales, it's keeping an extra digit hidden for reasons that still baffle me. So, what actually happened is when you turned it off it was reading 0.00mm but actually measuring something like 0.003mm, and when you waved it around it started measuring 0.004mm, which triggered the soft power-on bug, and displayed "0.00mm" because some marketing guy thinks you'll trust the tool more if you don't know about that extra precision digit that is used mostly (as far as I can tell) for some rounding functions when you switch back and forth from metric to imperial units. I haven't had to swap a battery since putting the little manual DIP switch in either. I've seen other people put a small flat spring under the battery, snap the battery lid clip, and put a chunk of duct tape over the lid instead, essentially making the battery itself a sort of pressure switch … and as the duct tape relaxes it acts like a sleep timer to turn the unit off if you forget to. I prefer the switch, but this method might be easier for some people.
@@lucasthompson1650 @Artūrs Savickis Interesting info. I recently replace the battery on mine for the second time, so I decided to keep the battery in the case until I use it. But the switch solution sounds much more convenient; I'll have to see if I have a switch small enough lying around.
@Wander "See? if you have one" I just walk around barefoot near any of my benches … if I need to find anything small, it only takes a few seconds to find several painfully embedded in one of my feet. Then it's just a matter of swearing loudly, positioning it, and soldering it. 😎
Great video! The Launchpad's been on my project list for a long, long while now, I'm glad you gave it a try! Question: I think the Launchpad can handle and transmit many button presses at once, can your DIY version too?
@@jamesdavis2027 Not really. All that's needed is a buffer to store the read inputs of the button matrix. Then the microcontroller can send them to the pc in bulk.
Say you hold down two diagonally opposing corner buttons simultaneously, and then press a third corner? How on earth can it tell that you’ve pressed that corner if the row and column is already connected?
doesn't the launchpad have velocity? maybe a good future project would be making a midi controller using a grid of FSRs, using high frequency analog multiplexing to make it usable using only a handful of ADCs
I think normally it is just 2 switches per button. The software then measures the press timestamps of both hits and gets the relative velocity from it. What is really interesting is the "aftertouch", which is almost non-present in midi controller under a couple hundred bucks pricepoint.
@@ostelaymetaule Seems like a good solution; however, the buttons would have to be different heights. After some googling, it seems like Novation uses analog measurements instead of 2 switches.
Velocity-sensitive pads are usually done with a PCB pattern similar to this: cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/012/730/original/adafruit_products_1616top_LRG.jpg?1386359520. And then you have rubber pads themselves with conductive layer on the bottom (usually carbon or graphite-based, I believe). Then, the more you press on the pad, the bigger the contact it makes and the smaller the resistance is between corresponding sets of PCB traces. While making custom PCB's is quite easy nowadays for hobbyists, making custom rubber pads with a conductive layer on the bottom sounds like quite a hassle. You can buy 4x4 silicone keypads from Adafruit but they're all of a predefined size you can't change
I used to watch your videos on an old account. I watch a lot of music production videos on this account and thanks to this video, you got another subscriber!
Tip with printing flexible filaments, use a wall brush and lightly dust on (with the brush) some talcum powder on the buildplate (doesn't need much at all) parts will come off a whole bunch easier.
I'm studying eee aswell. I don't know half of the things he knows and does. it's all up to you. He learned microchips and knows how it works. that's damn complex.
@@yasinsin4229 not really, i am a none electronic engineer but i can use micro controllers and can make things like mic preamps and robotic arms, diy cnc machines, its not that complex, all this to tell you that if you invest the time to learn, its not hard at all.
You didn't do the MIDI In capabilities at all, buttons just light up independently from MIDI, unlike a real Launchpad, where each button lights up with needed color with a command from a computer, that's how they do the lightshows on TH-cam. You could also find a hacked bootloader for the Arduino to just detect as a midi device, those usually work nice, with no need of loopmidi or anything else. If you had all the buttons (64+16) assigned to correct notes and MIDI commands (the upper round buttons) same as a real Launchpad, you could select Launchpad in the MIDI options of FL Studio, and set it to your device, and it would work exactly like a launchpad. And you've just made a button matrix with LED that happens to output MIDI, that's not a Launchpad. At this instance of your build, the winner is clearly a buy, since your 'Launchpad' is literally just a a button matrix with LED that happens to output MIDI. But I think your build is still impressive, considering that you did it all in one day for ~50 eur, it's not bad at all!
You are the real engineer...I appreciate you a lot and I'll also success in my field like you.. I added you to my role model list and thanks for inspiring me Great Scott💕
How would the digital interface be handled in this case? The OS will still require a device driver for the device to be recognized as MIDI, and DIY drivers are almost prohibitively expensive.
You can use a standard device class in your USB descriptor. Those device classes are described in the USB specification and therefore drivers for this kind of peripherals are already built into all major operating systems. A standard MIDI device doesn't require any special drivers for its basic functionality. So if you use a microcontroller like the AtMega32u4, which has built in USB, you can implement a MIDI controller without the need of any extra software on your PC.
@@PixelyIon It depends what you value your time at. If your time is "free" then sure its always going to be cheaper to solder some perf-board. And if you design a modular button board, you can just make it so that the same PCB is used throughout the design (keeping it in the 100mm2 limit). Same with the LED strips. That $35 order from JLC saves you 2~3hrs of soldering (I mean of course you still have to solder the parts to the PCB but its faster) then its worth it. Unless you value your time at less than $12/hr.
From a perspective of a music producer, I think the buy is the one to win, because launch pads have velocity function and you need to have a sensitive and less "moving" solid pads for proper finger drumming, and most of the launchpads include a lot of different features than just button smashing
from the intro it sounds very interesting project i think at buy , you just spend , and at diy you spend something but you gain more . it depend from the purpose
This quality content is gold. But as a **cough** "experienced MIDI musician" **cough**, I do know something about Launchpads which in musician's way, launchpad will wins DIY midi controller (in music production). Personally I use Ableton Live for making music, Novation, the company which makes Launchpad and other stuffs, has actually optimized their gears on many Digital Audio Workstations, specially Ableton Live, which means Launchpads' capabilities will be much more higher than DIY MIDI instruments. And also, Launchpad can be a controller for more other things, like keyboard. Setting 4 buttons as moving forward, left, right and back in CSGO is possible to do with both DIY MIDI Controller and Launchpad. But there's one drawback in my place, Hong Kong. It's quiet expensive to buying it. A normal Launchpad MK1 is costed HKD$1100, which me and others' average month salary is just ~HKD$13500, launchpad costs quiet a fortune for me. And DIY-ing a MIDI controller might just cost 1/5 of a real launchpad in here, so it's a huge advantage for DIY. But the speed, the material quality, the feedback and the feeling of Launchpad are still throwing away DIY. (Cuz when it's about music, I don't care about cost XD)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Or wait for your version to be available from GearBest 😊
You Bitch !
Too soon! LUL
😅
Hahaha delicious savagery!
Maybe some new buttons and an LCD display that says 'Get fucked, Gearbest!' on every button press might be a nice custom feature.
To be honest, gearbest is a really bad shop. Wow they take their time and - atleast for me - cancelled half the stuff I ordered. Never again.
For anyone wanting to do midi projects, i recommend using a microcontroller with native usb capabilities. Those are recognized straight away by the software you're using. Also they are recognized by android devices, ic you play with synthesizers apps. BTW great video!
next diy or buy mechanical keyboard maybe???
It's going to be expensive if going cherry mx... but I would love to see that :P
@@piefadase It's not too bad. Some websites sell 10 switches for $10. For a typical 104 key keyboard, that's $110. The launchpad he used in this video is about $100, so it should cost about the same as this video.
@@SoLaR27 i can get TKL keyboard less than $100, cherry switches, PBT keycap and many things.
@@SoLaR27 At that price, you might as well just buy the pre-made keyboard.
@@piefadase you dont have to buy exactly cherries.. there are chinese switches that are "fake" cherry and they are okay.. i use outemu brown and it works like it should so it can be cheap
Thanks for the brief mention in this video!
No reply
I love your music ❤️❤️❤️
Keep up the good work kaskobi
Lol
HI, I have made a few midi devices and had a few suggestions and comments if you do not mind. I would aways suggest using a teensy when working with midi as it has midi built in with a very good library of commands. When working with midi and addressable leds I would try to avoid neo pixel style leds as they can cause problems with timming, so I found using spi based addressable led like the apa102 with fastled work a lot better and are a lot quicker and this will help reduce latency. My last one is the buttons you chose need a lot of force to press and you will find using them tiring compared to a good tactile switch designed for a lighter touch. Now I did very much like the enclosure and the button mat you made, I thought the actual design was very good and as always an excellent video from you. To take this to the next stage I would add a routine that can switch on the led with commands from the midi software and not just from the keypresse. The teensy library had a routine called on note on and on note off that would handle all midi commands coming in and then you just need to switch on or off the correct led. Using velocity you could change the brightness or colour.
some excellent tips! thank you!
An arduino micro would also work as it also uses a mcu with USB support. I think it's the atmega32u2 on that board. You can get that board way cheaper :-).
Hi, one question, couple of years ago I thought about making 1 little drum device but I never got time. Now I have more free time, do you think I will be able to use piezo sensors to track not just the state, but the amount of force used? Or is there any better option?
@@peerappel2012 Yes the teensy 2 uses the same atmega chip as the micro, but I use the 3.2 or 3.6 for my more complicated projects.
jose, piezo's have a very short hit time, you'll need to get a peak detector/sample & hold type device between the piezo's and the analogue inputs.
I think the DIY is the winner
Sometimes the best thing about making something is the part of thinking, learning how to design and planing stuff.
Impressive stuff mate! Send me one and I’ll use in a video ;)
gg
No
I was shocked why kaskobi is here :0
TheFlyingRat lol
Pay for it, mate.
I only understand about a 10th of what you're talking about in your vids but I always learn something and do enjoy watching even though you're talking over my head the whole time. Keep up the good work.
GreatScott!, I've been watching you forever, and this may seem like strange critique, but in every video with your great hand-drawn diagrams, you seem to be using a water soluble black pen that bleeds when highlighted. Faber-Castell make water safe archival ink artist pens that are great for situations like this, and I've been using them for art and writing for years for their integrity when wet! Similar archival artist pens should have the same properties (sakura pigma etc.)
I'm electrical engineer student and I do al lof of musical stuff. playing instrumen, producing, mixing... etc. I'm very impressed with your work that mixes music with engineering because I'm into it.
"I'm an engineer, not a musician"
*_has FL Studio_*
wtf
😂
Christian Sarmiento its probably the demo free version
@@rvbxn04 In Trial it would say "(Trial)" after the plugin name.
Not too unlikely that someone who spent $70 on a MIDI controller and then another $40 on components to build his own would spend $75-150 on music software though.
morphman86 he could just do it for this vid
I am marvelled by your ingenuity. Every job demads a mastery and enthusiasm, and yours is an example. That's how we have fun paid for, not jobs.
I think "buy" wins due to limitations of the "diy" presents. The most fundamental is with that button configuration you cant push more than 1 button at the same time and that means no chords.
yeah, but its just a limitation of the arduino program the martix setup can recognice more than one press at a time.
@@leobla744 No. It's a limitation of how the keyboard is wired.
This can easily be fixed with some diodes though, I think the video is somewhat raffled off, and the final diy launchpad could've looked a lot better
@@joeykapi - yep, I didn't recognize that the scanning scheme would allow for the identification of what buttons were whenever pressed at the same time. My mistake
He added the diodes so the matrix should allow for n key rollover. However i dont know how the code in arduinu worked, but it shouldnt be a problem.
Whenever I hear MIDI, I always think Evan Kale :D
Rip evan kale
for some odd reason, i finally found a bridge between my hobby and my degree
Nice
let me guess, your degree is in music and your hobby is messing around with some electrical stuff right?
@@damaryusuf1624 nope. I'm an engineering student with a musical talent 🤣🤣🤣🤣
have you looked into designing synths like eurorack. lots of overlap between music and electronics
@@AtlasMvm i haven't. but that's interesting. I might go check that out ahahahah
I watch these videos, I don't completely understand them as I've not had the fortune of learning electronics (yet) but i love it because it's so interesting to see someone make something out of nothing.
You could even reduce the number of IO-Pins by using a Shift-Register for one side of the buttons.
Great Video though :-)
Luus135 A 4017 Johnson counter could do the 10 row scanning with one switch and two pins (clock and reset). Extending it to the 20x20 matrix to control one switch and 3 LEDs in each position of a 10x10 matrix (8x8 plus side buttons) would probably need a different counter chip. A 50-output row counter (2 μC pins) and, 2 sense column inputs and 6 LED driving outputs could do the whole matrix with 10 μC pins, with 20μs to process each row. For bonus, add force sensing button arrangements at the cost of more complex buttons and much faster scanning (as you now need to measure the time between each button reaching two depths). This becomes the velocity number in MIDI and changes how loud each sound is.
Guys do you know sites, blogs, threads etc. on that which you would recommend to beginners? I'm looking for a while for a way to use several buttons on in best case one pin, I'm using the oneWireKeypad-Library for Arduino, it works but I'm not really satisfied with this, a hardware solution would be better.
@@johnfrancisdoe1563 So that's what midi velocity is! Great!
I'm not a good electrician like Ben Eater but I think you can't use the shift r as input device
The only TH-cam channel videos I don't skip
Nice video, definitely got me thinking about a few things for some projects I'm working on!
Though, you could also, if you had used an Arduino with the ATmega32u4 chip, had set up your Arduino as an HID controller to emulate a keyboard, or even make it as a USB-Midi device directly using the MIDIUSB library. This works because the 32u4 chip has built in USB support, and can therefore act as a range of different USB devices.
*understands*
This is my favourite electronics series on TH-cam.
Thanks for a great episode, I really think the DIY version would be a great addition for sat a large scale art project. Using MIDI as a way to communicate with other components of the project. But for actual music creation a professional solution would probably be best.
FruityLoops raised me. You cease to amaze me. The shit we can do with our minds is amazing.
Sees the thumbnail
Clicks on vid
Doesn't understand anything
I LikE iT
Same
Most of us do the same...
@@DelicAlmin lol yeah
Same
Same here bro
If you add the satisfaction of DIYing, IT'S ALWAYS BETTER
It's worth noting that you need to set the baud rate to 9600 in the "Hairless Midi" software settings under File > Preferences. Otherwise it will say "unexpected byte"
DIY or Buy, which is the winner? That's easy, WE are! Thanks for the video, lots of good techniques. Now to lookup switch "ghosting"..
please make a video no How to make IGBT based arc welding machine.
He don't want to mess with mains voltage because there are many beginners. For arc welding machine visit diodegonewild
@@KACPER050599 If someone could assemble something like this,then i'm sure he/she could operate a indicator lightand exercise basic safety rules.
However,i would not be messing with mains voltage with a project like this because you will never have a reliable welder at hand,it will overheat or short out or whatever when you need it most.
And also,it is a big fire risk.
Perhaps buy a welder and then use it to pay it back off?
@@lazar2175 Not to mention that the parts/time would cost a lot more than a good second hand welder or a cheap new one.
I read it as LGBT based arc welding machine. It created the weirdest image in my mind.
That would be quite a dangerous and complicated project... I don't think that is in the scope of what his channel is about.
To me his channel is about getting beginners interested in electronics and providing them with the information and motivation to actually get started. Not anything highly detailed and specific, but things that can be applied to a multitude of projects.
In my opinion, if you don't know enough to build one from scratch on your own, it probably means you're not ready to mess around with anything like that yet.
This is heaven for people who can’t afford launchpads
Like me
Nobody:
Buzzfeed: $1 VS $1000 launchpad
THE THING I REALLY WANTED. FINALLY DIY TUTORIAL, I'VE BEEN DOING THIS FOR A LONG TIME
IIRC, doesn't the Launchpad do note velocity? This is something the DIY solution does not have...
I do like the idea it can act as a general input device... For this I use additional software with my LaunchKey and Pad.
the Launchpad Pro does note velocity. its a MUST HAVE imho.
Agreed!
I was thinking the same thing. I have a cheapo Korg drumpad and it features velocity, hold/roll/flam...
Also the way he is multiplexing... couldnt it mess up if he played more than one button at the same time?
@@Chaoddity
Admittedly I don't know anything about this. But I was just thinking of how this could be done "in general" .
And if I'm not mistaken, this(his) method is that the "pad" is polling/scanning "row by row" (or column by column). And keys that are pressed on the "currently scanned" row (or column) are "read out" (and stored or "sent out") before jumping to the next row (or column) to "read out" the keys pressed in that one. If this is how it's done, You "simply" avoid collisions by only actually "reading out" 1 row at a time. And since every "key" in a row is a member of a unique column, You simply check "which columns" that have registered "presses"...And other keys in that column can not "interfere" because they are not in the "scanned" row. ((or vice versa if You scan "columns" instead of rows))
The downside to this method is of course that it "splits" it's "scanning frequency" over how many rows (or columns) You "scan" possibly demanding a very high "scanning rate". Since it has to be able to scan off every row (or column) in a time short enough to actually make it feel like You can strike and release multiple keys simultaneously (e.g. a "chord"). And it must feel as if they can be "struck" and released as "1 movement" , and not that You feel as if You have to "hold" the "cord" to avoid the "pad" missing to "read" one of the pressed keys...
At least that's what I believe...
Apologies for my verbose attempt at explaining how I think it (could) works.
Best regards
@@GglSux That is correct. He should have no issues detecting multiple key presses after the diode mod. Scanning rate should not be a problem either. The lack of velocity is the flaw of this design. (Let alone aftertouch...)
The Launchpad wins this round but an updated diy version of yours could win the next round.
Other comments mention polyphonic output and velocity sensitive buttons on the original? Those really up the game! I'd also like after after touch for vibrato style playing but a wiggle bar on the side is just as musical and easier and cheaper to build. Some mentioned an app on a tablet instead. I much prefer buttons to a tablet screen and maybe the answer is a hybrid of the two? A tablet digitizer with a printed button array over the top. Those after market digitizers for fixing broken tablets are getting cheap! I like your version with less buttons from a players perspective. Bigger buttons and more space let your fingers dance out grooves with less mistakes. Another thing I like about a diy version is I can print out different keyboard layouts to suit my needs. A specialized drum pad, a piano keyboard layout, a guitar neck layout etc. And the basic electronics and software remains the same. Bravo. Well done Sir...
Great stuff Scott. I didn't know about the ability on Windows to route a serial line to appear as MIDI. Thanks again !
how you posted comment yesterday? youtube is broken again lol
@@krystofvydra yep, youtube is broken.
@@krystofvydra as I recall, patreons get to see it earlier
@TenOndra jasně :D
I'm Musician not electronic engineer so I prefer buy it for 20 dollars more (less in euros) but it was very interresting to see you built it I say in French "BRAVO ! YOU'VE MADE A VERY GOOD WORK"
JLCPCB sponsored video / him using a PCB NOT from JLC
@Bobby Schmurda yeah that's what i meant... Didn't remember the word.
in my opinion i think DIY is the winner
Adafruit has a DIY launchpad tutorial on their website also. Would like to see a comparison.
Adafruit is the best!
To me seems like DIY was the winner !!!
Diy or Buy Headphone DAC/AMP next?
Oh I can tell you myself that buy wins that one by a large margin lol
Midi is amazing. I’m super impressed its still here after 30 years
the best video ever///////////////
Did a similar thing with arcade switches! Made for much easier 3d modeling :P
Now I"m making devices with knobs, banks and LEDS to use for myself. I think DIY is the winner because what you end up with can be very specialized for your own purpose, as well as cheap, so you're not spending money on features you don't need
@9:12 drilling on top of digital calipers?!
come on.. he is an engineer which means he cant do anything right with his hands, only on paper :) give him a break
@@urugulu1656 I believe that you refer to the cheap Chinese digital calipers - I own one for a few years, and first year I was frustrated as f*ck, given the fact how fast that crap consumed batteries even while not turned on. Quick googling later I found out that there is a design flaw in all these cheap calipers, that drains the battery even when off. What I did was simply disassembled the plastic part where the display and circuit board is found, cut one of the traces from the battery to chip, installed a small DIP push button, drilled a small hole in the plastic for the tip of button to stick out, and hotglued it in place. Works like a charm! I used like three pairs of batteries in first year. Now it's year 4 on the same batteries and no worries!
@Artūrs Savickis Ha! I did the same thing last year because I got sick of trying to find a cheap unit that didn't use that same board/chipset/bug combo.
The actual bug is that if the calliper registers any change in measurement (while "powered off") it will trigger the soft power-on - and as these aren't exactly the most precise instruments of their ilk, you can turn it off with the soft power-off switch while it is reading 0.00mm, wave it around in the air like a magic wand for a few seconds, and see it power back up because it is now reading that "new" measurement of 0.00mm … because like a lot of cheap digital scales, it's keeping an extra digit hidden for reasons that still baffle me. So, what actually happened is when you turned it off it was reading 0.00mm but actually measuring something like 0.003mm, and when you waved it around it started measuring 0.004mm, which triggered the soft power-on bug, and displayed "0.00mm" because some marketing guy thinks you'll trust the tool more if you don't know about that extra precision digit that is used mostly (as far as I can tell) for some rounding functions when you switch back and forth from metric to imperial units.
I haven't had to swap a battery since putting the little manual DIP switch in either.
I've seen other people put a small flat spring under the battery, snap the battery lid clip, and put a chunk of duct tape over the lid instead, essentially making the battery itself a sort of pressure switch … and as the duct tape relaxes it acts like a sleep timer to turn the unit off if you forget to. I prefer the switch, but this method might be easier for some people.
@@lucasthompson1650 @Artūrs Savickis Interesting info. I recently replace the battery on mine for the second time, so I decided to keep the battery in the case until I use it. But the switch solution sounds much more convenient; I'll have to see if I have a switch small enough lying around.
@Wander "See? if you have one" I just walk around barefoot near any of my benches … if I need to find anything small, it only takes a few seconds to find several painfully embedded in one of my feet. Then it's just a matter of swearing loudly, positioning it, and soldering it. 😎
At least we can understand how a controller works. Always useful information. Thanks
Great video! The Launchpad's been on my project list for a long, long while now, I'm glad you gave it a try!
Question: I think the Launchpad can handle and transmit many button presses at once, can your DIY version too?
No, the code can not do that YET. But with a bit of modification, that should not be a problem.
@@greatscottlabGreat! I was about to ask the same question
GreatScott! How do you change that only in code??? It seems impossible.
@@jamesdavis2027 Not really. All that's needed is a buffer to store the read inputs of the button matrix. Then the microcontroller can send them to the pc in bulk.
Say you hold down two diagonally opposing corner buttons simultaneously, and then press a third corner? How on earth can it tell that you’ve pressed that corner if the row and column is already connected?
What a beautiful handwriting.
doesn't the launchpad have velocity? maybe a good future project would be making a midi controller using a grid of FSRs, using high frequency analog multiplexing to make it usable using only a handful of ADCs
I really learned a lot from this video. I would not have thought about soldering *after* installing the board and switches!
I was really hoping to see inside the launchpad because of its button velocity sensors.
I think normally it is just 2 switches per button. The software then measures the press timestamps of both hits and gets the relative velocity from it.
What is really interesting is the "aftertouch", which is almost non-present in midi controller under a couple hundred bucks pricepoint.
@@ostelaymetaule Seems like a good solution; however, the buttons would have to be different heights. After some googling, it seems like Novation uses analog measurements instead of 2 switches.
Velocity-sensitive pads are usually done with a PCB pattern similar to this: cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/012/730/original/adafruit_products_1616top_LRG.jpg?1386359520. And then you have rubber pads themselves with conductive layer on the bottom (usually carbon or graphite-based, I believe). Then, the more you press on the pad, the bigger the contact it makes and the smaller the resistance is between corresponding sets of PCB traces.
While making custom PCB's is quite easy nowadays for hobbyists, making custom rubber pads with a conductive layer on the bottom sounds like quite a hassle. You can buy 4x4 silicone keypads from Adafruit but they're all of a predefined size you can't change
The buy for me is the winner. AKAI launchpads have analog pressure sensitive switches. They range from 8 buttons up to a whole launchpad.
0:49
Yeet the font in the bottom video thumbnail is the same as the one in your ”GreatScott!” channel watermark!
East or West DIY is always The BEST
Can I get this from Gear Best?
Soon friend, soon.
I used to watch your videos on an old account. I watch a lot of music production videos on this account and thanks to this video, you got another subscriber!
If it's called a launchpad then you should be able to launch a rocket or fly a drone with it.
Well technically you can
wheres the files to 3D Print? They are for 123d design which is not available anymore.. You should upload them as .stl files
I'm coming over... Just to shake hands in gratitude
You should try to breath a bit slower when u talk because at the end of the phrase we can hear it :>
Catalin Cata
So here you put the buttons on-_BREATH_
I love your DIY or buy series
Biggest disadvantage: no variable velocity. Not really useful for an musician.
Organists get around that with pedals. #centuriesofprecedent
Difference in price is not too big, but what satisfaction!!!
BUY!
incredible! love all your handwritten notes and 3D printing with the coding
I think your mic settings are off, your "s" "z" sounds are very unpleasant to hear
Tip with printing flexible filaments, use a wall brush and lightly dust on (with the brush) some talcum powder on the buildplate (doesn't need much at all) parts will come off a whole bunch easier.
Dude what did you exactly study cause I'm interested in studying the same thing
Maurice-Mores I'm guessing an electronics engineering degree or diploma. His interest in coding is what allows him to do all this. Which is great!
I'm studying eee aswell. I don't know half of the things he knows and does. it's all up to you. He learned microchips and knows how it works. that's damn complex.
I always been interested in what he's doing and I like electronics so I decided to study the same thing xD
@@yasinsin4229 not really, i am a none electronic engineer but i can use micro controllers and can make things like mic preamps and robotic arms, diy cnc machines, its not that complex, all this to tell you that if you invest the time to learn, its not hard at all.
Mateeeeeee I'm amazed! This is something I know I wouldn't be able to make but for sure I have to recognize that you're an absolute genius!
Can you hit multiple buttons at once?
It seems like it would interpret 2 buttons as pressing 4
Best TH-cam channel ever
You didn't do the MIDI In capabilities at all, buttons just light up independently from MIDI, unlike a real Launchpad, where each button lights up with needed color with a command from a computer, that's how they do the lightshows on TH-cam. You could also find a hacked bootloader for the Arduino to just detect as a midi device, those usually work nice, with no need of loopmidi or anything else. If you had all the buttons (64+16) assigned to correct notes and MIDI commands (the upper round buttons) same as a real Launchpad, you could select Launchpad in the MIDI options of FL Studio, and set it to your device, and it would work exactly like a launchpad. And you've just made a button matrix with LED that happens to output MIDI, that's not a Launchpad. At this instance of your build, the winner is clearly a buy, since your 'Launchpad' is literally just a a button matrix with LED that happens to output MIDI.
But I think your build is still impressive, considering that you did it all in one day for ~50 eur, it's not bad at all!
The nice thing about DIY is you can scale it however you like, add more LEDs if you want, etc.
Diy or buy:
7inch hdmi display
Bro... he's not making an LCD. It'd be way too expensive and hard.
You are the real engineer...I appreciate you a lot and I'll also success in my field like you.. I added you to my role model list and thanks for inspiring me Great Scott💕
If you used an Arduino with real USB not just USB Serial you wouldn't need that LoopMIDI nonsense.
How would the digital interface be handled in this case? The OS will still require a device driver for the device to be recognized as MIDI, and DIY drivers are almost prohibitively expensive.
You can use a standard device class in your USB descriptor. Those device classes are described in the USB specification and therefore drivers for this kind of peripherals are already built into all major operating systems. A standard MIDI device doesn't require any special drivers for its basic functionality. So if you use a microcontroller like the AtMega32u4, which has built in USB, you can implement a MIDI controller without the need of any extra software on your PC.
His drawing is much impressive.👍
You come from Germany? kommst du aus Deutschland das Englisch hört sich nämlich ein wenig so an
Ja kommt er
Steht aber auch in der Kanalbeschreibung ;)
"ein wenig"
Wut
also ich finde seine aussprache sehr gut im gegensatz zum großteil der deutsch-englischen youtuber
lul dachte ich bin alleine xD
Gold play button! Congrats! 😊
To make it short: this project just lacks a decent understanding of the intended purpose of the device.
A splendid video with a huge range of construction skills. Congratulations for making a really effective controller.
That kind of thing really needs a custom PCB, would have saved you alot of the wiring.
How tf you've reacted 1 day ago?
Sportacus patreon
nah just a couple of diods and a bit of wire wouldnt be worth making or orderning a pcb.
@@casper5204 lol I live in NZ.
@@PixelyIon It depends what you value your time at. If your time is "free" then sure its always going to be cheaper to solder some perf-board. And if you design a modular button board, you can just make it so that the same PCB is used throughout the design (keeping it in the 100mm2 limit). Same with the LED strips.
That $35 order from JLC saves you 2~3hrs of soldering (I mean of course you still have to solder the parts to the PCB but its faster) then its worth it.
Unless you value your time at less than $12/hr.
From a perspective of a music producer, I think the buy is the one to win, because launch pads have velocity function and you need to have a sensitive and less "moving" solid pads for proper finger drumming, and most of the launchpads include a lot of different features than just button smashing
I'm an engineer not a... Medic
"Rainbow six siege reference btw"
*musician
@@heligon4674 I WAS REFERRING TO A CHARACTER FROM *A VIDEO GAME*
@@Danger-Tater yea but he said musician not medic
@@heligon4674 I know what he said man I'm just memeing around
@@heligon4674 r/woooosh
HAPPY 1MILLION SUBSCRIBERS
GREATSCOTT
Happy gold play button
I don’t like engineering. I don’t like music.
Why did I watch that?
topshaggercaleb are you ok? Did you hit your head?
Lmao Jack no
@Lvl42 GT no need to be rude you dumb bitch
Great Scott is an FL user! Makes me happy.
please, make a stenography keyboard, the commercial machines cost Thousands !
Dude, your penmanship is beautiful, and you're very talented. Loved the video.
What happened to the stolen video?
@@pluscrafter7117 I got banned from Twitter for the 16th time so I don't use their website.
You are great teacher.
It's great to learn from you.
Thanks...
playing of that is better to this videos but you didn't
Add platters, pots and volume faders to it for use with Virtual DJ or Traktor software and it's a REAL winner :D
Pleas never do that again! 9:13
What i didn't get though???
@@EasyElectronics2412 drilling on your calipers
@@nardhb Why is it bad?
Because it is a divice to messure. If it get bend only slightly you can trash it!
Both are great.some builders may not have the 3d printer or experience. .. So the buy option would be great for them. Love the video.
This is a real gem of a video. Love it.
this DIY is in another level
As a Musician interested on these types of stuff, this is quite interesting...
from the intro it sounds very interesting project
i think at buy , you just spend , and at diy you spend something but you gain more . it depend from the purpose
I think both are winners! Because the buy will get you a decent launchpad for making music, but if you have some time, this a good project! :)
This quality content is gold.
But as a **cough** "experienced MIDI musician" **cough**, I do know something about Launchpads which in musician's way, launchpad will wins DIY midi controller (in music production).
Personally I use Ableton Live for making music, Novation, the company which makes Launchpad and other stuffs, has actually optimized their gears on many Digital Audio Workstations, specially Ableton Live, which means Launchpads' capabilities will be much more higher than DIY MIDI instruments.
And also, Launchpad can be a controller for more other things, like keyboard. Setting 4 buttons as moving forward, left, right and back in CSGO is possible to do with both DIY MIDI Controller and Launchpad.
But there's one drawback in my place, Hong Kong. It's quiet expensive to buying it. A normal Launchpad MK1 is costed HKD$1100, which me and others' average month salary is just ~HKD$13500, launchpad costs quiet a fortune for me.
And DIY-ing a MIDI controller might just cost 1/5 of a real launchpad in here, so it's a huge advantage for DIY.
But the speed, the material quality, the feedback and the feeling of Launchpad are still throwing away DIY.
(Cuz when it's about music, I don't care about cost XD)
I have no idea what u'r talkin about, but it looks amazing!!