Hearing Charles say, "Oh yeah", you knew all was well. Spring time should find you in a place of having made very good progress. The two kitties made me laugh with their antics. I miss my pets so really enjoy that. Have a good week!! 🥰
I've been thinking about the possibility of insulating the mass and conserving the heat for later use. Situations like workshops, where a fan could be used to pull the heat out of the mass an hour before time for work. It would also be handy in case the house got too hot.
Outstanding! I saw this come up in my feed as I have been watching box batch videos in my plan to build a 4" riser (with no masonry heat sink after the bell) for our sauna. My "Hot Tent Stove" (stainless) was always a smokey affair, and after just one month it started leaking smoke into the room itself. Tons of creosote too. So the box batch looks like a winner. I plan to take some additional steps to improve efficiency, and ensure ease of use. I may make a video about it if I find it all a success. I am having a stainless bell & pipes welded now for our "radiator" and exhaust, also using a bypass to have good draft initially (thanks to a "broaudio" or "Walker Stoves" tip). My thinking about the main combustion zone is to use a removable cylinder "mold sleeve" and pack the cavity with a mix of perlite and a bonding agent that I found in another video. But "Broaudio" has a "Rocket and Masonry Stove Mortar Discussion" video I plan to watch too to see what I will settle on. I like the idea of an insulating layer between the fire brick and the actual flames, as I imagine it will result in a faster heat up with less wood. Though for non-sauna applications I guess there is benefit to having heat go into the fire brick anyhow, since one wants the main structure to be heated over a long time, rather than our hot and fast sauna application. I may contact you as I live in Southern Vermont, and have taught sustainability classes at CCV (may again at some point). I would enjoy sharing how this goes (I may also use a modified design for our maple syrup boiler). Anyway thanks for sharing!
Hi Jesse, thanks so much (neighbor!), we would love to hear from you, and we're interested to hear more about your projects. You can find our e-mail address on the About page of our channel.
I certainly give you a lot of credit for researching rocket mass heaters and deciding to take on building one yourself. Curious, where did you find the plans for your box batch heater? I’m planning on building my own yurt up in northern BC, Canada 🇨🇦 possibly later this year.
Hi, thanks, you're the second person to ask about the plans on this video... there's a link in the description below the "part one" video but I'll add them to this description too.
Very nice job, I want to build also one, in a greenhouse and from there heat to pipes into the house, and the barn with cv radiators. quiestion is the heat exanger needs to be placed carefully to prevent accidents with steam explosions. What kind of mortar do you use? are the stones rocksolid glued or can I still take it apart. In the Netherlands I can not just decide to go live in the woods, it is forbidden there, but yes, NL is much smaller then the US.
i like the little table you made for the cats to get under by your bed. how did you get the color to match the cabinet color so well? can you share the paint and color?
Ha, it's actually a coincidence that the paint looked good in the Bigfoot. It's leftover from what we bought for the bender board on the yurt. Will take a look at the paint can and let you know!
Soak edges of brick, perfect adhesion. You can soak the whole brick but if it’s fire brick you will have to let them drain the excessive water but your mortar will be sucked into the drying brick creating a full Bond.and the mortar doesn’t set so fast giving you time to work the mortar while. Properly precisely place ever brick
Stay tuned for heat shield and temperature testing... The clearances we have read about are pretty small for this type of heater, but we will make sure it is not getting the wall or ceiling too hot.
Good morning, my wife and I live in Vermont near Okemo and we have a 3 acre land that we plan on building a yurt on and are currently living out of an RV. We were wondering if you would share your email with us to ask questions and contact you about your experience. Thank you for your time
@@OvertheRiverandThroughtheWoods I can’t find the for business inquiries section, it would be this would it be youtube.com/@OvertheRiverandThroughtheWoods
I like your little rocket stove, but aren't you very close to a wall? From what I read about rocket stoves is that the barrel can get up to 1000 degrees F. Wood can spontaneously combust at 700 degrees and paper at 480 degrees. Most codes recommend 36 inches from a combustible wall. Installing a heat shield will help protect the combustibles under the shield.
Hi there, and thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, the stove will be fairly close to the wall, but there will be a heat shield in front of the rafter supports and a 3-1/2" air gap between that and the actual wall. In addition, there will be a cob mass built in between the heat shield and the barrel, and the barrel will be positioned in such a way that the flue gasses will be mostly directed away from the back of the barrel. My main concern will be the top, so there will also be a heat shield on the rafters above the stove. We will also be closely monitoring the temperatures in the area when we begin burning it. Utmost care will be taken until we are completely comfortable that the design is sound and safe!
Hearing Charles say, "Oh yeah", you knew all was well. Spring time should find you in a place of having made very good progress.
The two kitties made me laugh with their antics. I miss my pets so really enjoy that.
Have a good week!! 🥰
Absolutely! Thanks Meg. Raven and Pandora say hi :)
Piękna jurta, gratuluję. Pozdrowienia z Polski. To drugi koniec świata.
Looks great!
Thank you Annie :)
I've been thinking about the possibility of insulating the mass and conserving the heat for later use. Situations like workshops, where a fan could be used to pull the heat out of the mass an hour before time for work. It would also be handy in case the house got too hot.
Outstanding! I saw this come up in my feed as I have been watching box batch videos in my plan to build a 4" riser (with no masonry heat sink after the bell) for our sauna. My "Hot Tent Stove" (stainless) was always a smokey affair, and after just one month it started leaking smoke into the room itself. Tons of creosote too. So the box batch looks like a winner. I plan to take some additional steps to improve efficiency, and ensure ease of use. I may make a video about it if I find it all a success. I am having a stainless bell & pipes welded now for our "radiator" and exhaust, also using a bypass to have good draft initially (thanks to a "broaudio" or "Walker Stoves" tip). My thinking about the main combustion zone is to use a removable cylinder "mold sleeve" and pack the cavity with a mix of perlite and a bonding agent that I found in another video. But "Broaudio" has a "Rocket and Masonry Stove Mortar Discussion" video I plan to watch too to see what I will settle on. I like the idea of an insulating layer between the fire brick and the actual flames, as I imagine it will result in a faster heat up with less wood. Though for non-sauna applications I guess there is benefit to having heat go into the fire brick anyhow, since one wants the main structure to be heated over a long time, rather than our hot and fast sauna application. I may contact you as I live in Southern Vermont, and have taught sustainability classes at CCV (may again at some point). I would enjoy sharing how this goes (I may also use a modified design for our maple syrup boiler). Anyway thanks for sharing!
Hi Jesse, thanks so much (neighbor!), we would love to hear from you, and we're interested to hear more about your projects. You can find our e-mail address on the About page of our channel.
I certainly give you a lot of credit for researching rocket mass heaters and deciding to take on building one yourself. Curious, where did you find the plans for your box batch heater? I’m planning on building my own yurt up in northern BC, Canada 🇨🇦 possibly later this year.
Hi, thanks, you're the second person to ask about the plans on this video... there's a link in the description below the "part one" video but I'll add them to this description too.
Wold you please make na update review of your Rocket heater in the coming videos when you start heating, and usingnit for a while?
For sure, that's the plan!
Very nice job, I want to build also one, in a greenhouse and from there heat to pipes into the house, and the barn with cv radiators. quiestion is the heat exanger needs to be placed carefully to prevent accidents with steam explosions.
What kind of mortar do you use? are the stones rocksolid glued or can I still take it apart.
In the Netherlands I can not just decide to go live in the woods, it is forbidden there, but yes, NL is much smaller then the US.
i like the little table you made for the cats to get under by your bed. how did you get the color to match the cabinet color so well? can you share the paint and color?
Ha, it's actually a coincidence that the paint looked good in the Bigfoot. It's leftover from what we bought for the bender board on the yurt. Will take a look at the paint can and let you know!
(We built it for them to use as a step to jump up to the bed; they hang out underneath as a bonus feature!)
Soak your fire brick in water before you add mortar,otherwise they tend to absorb the water in the mortal .
Soak edges of brick, perfect adhesion. You can soak the whole brick but if it’s fire brick you will have to let them drain the excessive water but your mortar will be sucked into the drying brick creating a full Bond.and the mortar doesn’t set so fast giving you time to work the mortar while. Properly precisely place ever brick
Where did you get your plans?
Hi Bruce, there is a link to the plans in the description of our batch box part one video. Thanks for watching!
Insulate the FLOOR..LOL
..
ADD PREHEAT TUBES ON FLOOR OF BURN CHAMBER...LOL
AND ADD ARMATURE TO STIFFEN, BUT ALLOW FOR EXPANSION...OK..?
Carry on
Aircrete cement whould have saved you plenty of hours of assembly
the build seems too close to the wall
Stay tuned for heat shield and temperature testing... The clearances we have read about are pretty small for this type of heater, but we will make sure it is not getting the wall or ceiling too hot.
Good morning, my wife and I live in Vermont near Okemo and we have a 3 acre land that we plan on building a yurt on and are currently living out of an RV. We were wondering if you would share your email with us to ask questions and contact you about your experience. Thank you for your time
Hello neighbor! Please go to our "about" info on the channel page. Then click on the "for business inquiries" and it will show our e-mail address.
@@OvertheRiverandThroughtheWoods I can’t find the for business inquiries section, it would be this would it be
youtube.com/@OvertheRiverandThroughtheWoods
Yes, right here: www.youtube.com/@OvertheRiverandThroughtheWoods/about (the extra step is to show the email to humans and not robots).
I like your little rocket stove, but aren't you very close to a wall? From what I read about rocket stoves is that the barrel can get up to 1000 degrees F. Wood can spontaneously combust at 700 degrees and paper at 480 degrees.
Most codes recommend 36 inches from a combustible wall. Installing a heat shield will help protect the combustibles under the shield.
Hi there, and thanks for watching and commenting.
Yes, the stove will be fairly close to the wall, but there will be a heat shield in front of the rafter supports and a 3-1/2" air gap between that and the actual wall. In addition, there will be a cob mass built in between the heat shield and the barrel, and the barrel will be positioned in such a way that the flue gasses will be mostly directed away from the back of the barrel. My main concern will be the top, so there will also be a heat shield on the rafters above the stove. We will also be closely monitoring the temperatures in the area when we begin burning it. Utmost care will be taken until we are completely comfortable that the design is sound and safe!