Great stuff. One tip of my own I'd pass on is to rub the fibreglass pencil on the "replacement plank" before you apply the brown, it takes the paint better, and simulates a rough sawnplank at the same time. Also the wash picks up the scratches and helps sell the wood effect.
Interesting video, nice model wagon too. The top planks would have been the entire length of the wagon, so if "replacing" them, do so across the entire length 😉😉 A word of wisdom to the wise, after using a glass fibre brush, wash the wagon to get rid of fibres. Also a glass fibre pen or a small piece of 1200 wet and dry paper can help to distress it, prep it for paint, weathering etc. W&D paper also requires a clean up after use, but less so than with a glass fibre pen. The wheel sets need weathering, at least to remove the blackening sheen. Also couplings could do with false shading if one must use TL couplings, matt black is ideal.
It's easy to gum up the coupling when weathering, so doing this is more of a risk. The wheels are blackened already, so in normal conditions look OK. However, there is nothing stopping individual modellers from doing both of these.
Because they still need to be weathered, and we had one to hand. The techniques would work on any wagon, it's just a little easier if you don't have to replace bits, such as horrible old brake gear, to get the wagon ready for dirt. Those mods have already appeared in BRM, thanks to Tony Wright.
A simple analogy would be an artist and canvas. An artist might wish to use a premium canvas as it affects the painting in a variety of ways, thus determining the final appearance. Having said that, a true master will make use of the worst materials available and transform them into something altogether beautiful. The same may be said of any creative endeavour. In conclusion, bananas’s are indeed yellow when fully ripe.
Great tutorial, Phil! Picked up some excellent tips in this video!
Great stuff. One tip of my own I'd pass on is to rub the fibreglass pencil on the "replacement plank" before you apply the brown, it takes the paint better, and simulates a rough sawnplank at the same time. Also the wash picks up the scratches and helps sell the wood effect.
Spot on, I use a similar technique for certain rusting effects on painted "steel" etc.
Great tutorial, Phil 👍
great vlog on channel thanks for share thanks lee
Interesting video, nice model wagon too.
The top planks would have been the entire length of the wagon, so if "replacing" them, do so across the entire length 😉😉
A word of wisdom to the wise, after using a glass fibre brush, wash the wagon to get rid of fibres. Also a glass fibre pen or a small piece of 1200 wet and dry paper can help to distress it, prep it for paint, weathering etc. W&D paper also requires a clean up after use, but less so than with a glass fibre pen.
The wheel sets need weathering, at least to remove the blackening sheen. Also couplings could do with false shading if one must use TL couplings, matt black is ideal.
Job done?
And what about the wheelsets ?
And the coupling still shiny..
It's easy to gum up the coupling when weathering, so doing this is more of a risk. The wheels are blackened already, so in normal conditions look OK. However, there is nothing stopping individual modellers from doing both of these.
Great video, would have been more interesting to have only weathered one side and end to show the change
If modelling a GWR coal train in the 30's one down only 100 odd to go.
If you're going to model a beaten up, worn out wagon with heavy weathering why start with one of the most expensive RTR models?
Because they still need to be weathered, and we had one to hand. The techniques would work on any wagon, it's just a little easier if you don't have to replace bits, such as horrible old brake gear, to get the wagon ready for dirt. Those mods have already appeared in BRM, thanks to Tony Wright.
A simple analogy would be an artist and canvas. An artist might wish to use a premium canvas as it affects the painting in a variety of ways, thus determining the final appearance. Having said that, a true master will make use of the worst materials available and transform them into something altogether beautiful. The same may be said of any creative endeavour. In conclusion, bananas’s are indeed yellow when fully ripe.