Rebuilding a Dormer Window
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2024
- In September this year I made a last minute decision to repair the dormer window at our cottage before the winter set in.
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The window had been repaired several years ago with a new front, but the tonge and groove face was for ever moving in the extreme weather, and it had been built too close to the edge of the roof, meaning there was no undercowl to protect it from dripping rain.
So I decided to totally rebuild it, replacing the tongue and groove timber front with marine ply, with grooves routed into it to give the same effect without the movement.
Undercowls... roofing... these are all new to me, but there's nothing like a challenge that's GOT TO BE DONE to get you learning new skills!!
As with all jobs you undertake on an old victorian cottage, I had hoped to just replace the front, but ended up taking all the tiles off the roof above the dormer, re-felting and re-battening it and re-tiling the whole roof!
This video mainly deals with reconstruction of the front of the dormer window - for which I used a great product I recently discovered - ERC10 from Chemfix - a two part epoxy that's fantastic for minor wood repairs, splicing and basically joining wood together.
Today's Tool Kit
ERC 10 Epoxy Wood Repair System bit.ly/2YS2wg1
Dual cartridge skeleton gun bit.ly/2Edg6AQ
Filler Knife goo.gl/O3sGAi £5.59 for pack of 3
Something to mix the filler on - I use perspex but anything similar or even a piece of wood will do
And here's a link to the manufacturer's website goo.gl/GuEzcZ
to paint the completed dormer, I used a combination of Dulux and Johnstones' paint systems, as I started with primer and undercoats from the Dulux 3 part weathershield system and then realised I needed to use a Johnstones flexible gloss - as Dulux don't manufacture the colour I needed to match the other windows. HOWEVER I RECOMMEND YOU STICK TO EITHER A DULUX 3 PART SYSTEM, OR THE JOHSTONES EQUIVALENT - rather than mixing the two brands.
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looks gorgeous! Well done.
Fantastic finish! Perfection!!!
Beautiful job! Do you have any videos that relate to upgrading roof insulation from the inside of the house? I have a chalet bungalow (with dormer), where the area above the upstairs rooms is inaccessible. Would love a how-to on this!
Great video and a job well done! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Blake - really appreciate that!
Great job - like one of the other commenters would also like to know what you used and how you insulated the dormer - my 1980’s house is freezing upstairs - think they used 10mm of paper as insulation in the dormers
Thanks! I didn't insulated the dormer itself but insulated from below with insulated plasterboard on the sloping ceiling in the room beneath. 50mm insulation behind the plasterboard which should ideally have been a bit thicker to satisfy the u values but it's made a world of difference. The room is very easy to heat now with the one radiator and was almost impossible to before.
Very nice work.
with just 5 minutes to work with the filler when filling in the gaps, may I suggest using a disposable cake icing bag that you can cut the end off to match the gaps you are filling like a caulking gun!
By applying the epoxy on fresh cuts of wood would this protect it from rotting away?
Great video!
Charlie you might remember me from another video, I commented on the video where you was showing people how to insult a velux window and all the keyboard warriors where saying you done it wrong and I commented about me being an amateur professional roofer and said that’s how I was taught to do it by people with 25years plus roofing experiences
but anyways you should always bed and nail the verge not just point it in the reason for this because of wind lift bud I’m sure your be alright though as this video is a year old and you haven’t made an update yet but just for future reference it’s better to bed the tiles together and nail/screw then point them in after when the cement as set off a bit this mean the chance of wind lift is very low of course on some proper sites where health and safety as gone mad they want you to use special clips too which I personally think Is a little obsessive but better safe then sorry lol great video anyways bud nice professional job I like the fact you used CT1 to seal under the verge I always recommend CT1 if you can afford it especially there power n grab brand from CT1 hands down that’s the strongest adhesive i know on the market I’d trust my life with there products they never let me down
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Correct. Verge tiles should be bedded and nailed as you progress up the verge and pointing tidied up as it goes off. Not smear a bit of muck over the top with a plastering trowel☹️
Those verges look a right mess, you should have bedded the tiles onto the undercloaking then waited for the cement to go off a bit, then polnted the cement useing a gauging trowel not getting any cement on the edge of the tiles.
Totally agree should be bedded 1 at a time and then pointed up after so the edge of tile is clean and clear to see!!such shame as timber work seems sound.
Pointing Trowel instead of plastering trowel next time!!!!
Did you get single glazed windows?
I'm gradually replacing all my single glazed leaded (rather naff) windows installed in the 1970s with double glazed. They're not argon filled but they do make a massive difference.
I watched one of your videos where you are putting in a roof window, I was wondering if you needed any permission or documents to install it?
Yes, you need approval from the building control department of your local Council. Here's a useful article that runs through the steps you need to take www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/replacementregs.htm
Thank you for the fast reply, and the link was very useful.