The prefilter you're referring to isn't new, but has been an accessory dating back to the 9N. It is not standard on the newer tractors as shown in your video. My 1967 Ford 2000 has the newer style air filter element, but that's not the same as the prefilter shown in your video. The oil bath filters were standard up to the mid 1960s on most tractor brands. The prefilter shown in your video was the cyclone air filter and was available as an option in 1939.
Excellent! Thanks for clarifying. I only saw it listed as an accessory available at the Ford dealerships starting in about 1950. I didn't realize it was available prior to that. I appreciate you making that correction.
Keep us posted on your restoration! I love seeing these old workhorses be refurbished and appreciated. Have you seen our other Ford 8N videos: Here's the playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
My first automobile was a 1961 International Scout, and I discovered that it used an oil bath filter when it wheezed to a stop one day while joy riding on dusty forest service roads. Got out to see what was wrong with the 🤬 thing 😂. At that point in time I wasn't too knowledgeable about such things. I pulled the air filter assembly off and checked for fuel, checked for spark and fired it up without the air filter. I then put the filter back on and proceeded on my journey, only to have the same problem. After going through the same process a couple more times, I realized where the problem was. That poor thing was trying to breathe through what appeared to be the La Brea tar pit. There was quite a collection of prehistoric plant and animal artifacts it that goo. I quickly grasped the concept when on closer inspection noticed the oil level mark. Needless to say, after a thorough cleaning, I put clean oil in up to the mark and it was happy 😁. Think I'll go check the air cleaner on my 8n.
Until about a year ago - I had no idea that these oil bath filters were used in some vehicles. I've always liked those old Scouts! Thanks for the story!
I break your rule and use waste engine oil in my Ford 1700 air cleaner after it’s been sitting in the jug to settle out for a while. Haven’t noticed any ill effects… maybe I’ll get burned, but it doesn’t seem like I’m headed to a premature engine overhaul. The diesel isn’t quite as picky as a gas carburetor. I figure the “dirt” just settles into the cup anyway with dirt from the air. Mine has the intake up through the top of the hood and the housing and cup are black which makes the gunk harder to see. Surprised the manual says daily check, although that makes sense if running all day on a farm (8-10 hours). My manual basically says check regularly and change the oil every 50 hours, or when 1/4” of debris has accumulated in the cup. I don’t find it builds up in the cup too quickly. I definitely keep the radiator clean - it has a removable screen in front of it for that purpose. When mowing tall material with seed heads in hot weather, sometimes I have to clean the screen every half hour because the engine temp is creeping up. Interestingly, I don’t get much for seeds and stuff in the air cleaner. Maybe because of the intake orientation? Air has to go up, then down to the bottom of the cleaner.
People have been using the waste oil for decades - and most of them haven't had a problem. I imagine it's because they check their oil bath more often, and replaced that oil more often.
Hey friend there is a neat feature to these old fords a friend of mine said that the shifter if it's in neutral and if it's a 4 speed transmission the lever can be pulled up an pushed to the side for easy access to the tractor
That's 100% correct. However, I never do it. The rubber boot on our shifter is old (and painted over) - so when you pull the shifter up, it actually pulls the boot up off the base. Then you have to work to get it (the boot) back down.
Radiator plugging with field dust, and maybe dirt if you’ve added a front end loader? Consider going to a pusher fan. Thinking about all the oil bath air cleaners I’ve used, I wonder if the best oil might be non-detergent, because it doesn’t suspend dirt but lets it drop to the bottom of the sump. Or maybe it makes no difference.🙄
I actually brought this up (pusher fan) in the video. My Ford 2N tractor had a pusher fan when I purchased it. It had been used mostly for stationary PTO work, and the pusher fan was evidently better than the normal pull-fan for that sitting still work. But it didn't take me long to figure out that for my use (driving through the field, mowing the lawn) the pusher fan was pushing the heat in front of me, and I was driving right back through it. That tractor would overheat pretty fast, until I switched out the fan for a normal one. Good question about the non-detergent oils - I'm not sure.
@@PurpleCollarLife Interesting. Yeah, I’d figured you might want to move more air with a pusher because the engine is hot. But from what you say, just having a fan with another blade or two might not be enough to make the pusher equal in cooling. I know some guys add screens, but everything needs to be cleaned.
Another good video to watch even though I don’t have one! So question: if you didn’t have the history with this 8N and you could only have 1 tractor (heaven forbid!!) would you choose this over your John Deere? I have a neighbor who swears by his old tractor and hardly ever see him on the new…
Thank you for watching! That's certainly a tough question. There are advantages to each. Ford 8N: can go places the John Deere 2210 can't (woods, mud, snow) even with 2-wheel drive is much better for 3-point implements is easy to maintain and service is very inexpensive to fix if something does break/go wrong John Deere 2210: The front-end loader is a huge benefit hydrostatic transmission is really nice for loader work, snow plowing, etc. Is compact enough to fit in some tight spaces the diesel engine is more fuel efficient If I absolutely had to choose one - and didn't have the family history with the 8N - I'd probably still choose the 8N, just due to the amount of work it can do that the little JD can't. But I'd certainly miss that front end loader - I use the bucket and pallet forks all the time.
That's true - but 70 years ago, they didn't have the oils of today. I actually talk about this in a video that I'll be posting next week about an oil change with the Ford 8N. Thanks for watching!
I believe the oil bath air filters are actual intended to have nondetergent oil used in them. modern oil hold contaminate in suspension so the oil filter can remove them, non-detergent oil allows the contaminants to fall out of suspension, Thats why all the older auto engines didn't have oil filters and the bottom of the oil pan would collect a layer of gray sludge in the bottom, that was the aluminum from the pistons, worn Babbit material and cast iron from the cylinders laying in the bottom of the engine and the oil was relatively clean every morning on startup. But if you check it daily it makes no difference. If the oil level is changing in the cup, you may have a filter medium that is plugged up and needs replaced. All the vehicle I have had over the years would keep a constant oil level if flowing air thru them normally. Restriction causes higher air flow velocities and that caries the oil up and into the engine
Congrats on 40 years with the Ford 600! That's awesome. We never have removed that metal wicking media. From everything I've read and seen, it's not necessary unless you're having a problem. Ours still works great! And I'm not 100% sure that my Great Uncle didn't replace that entire assembly at some point during the tractor's history. Rachel Gingell mentioned in this video that she recommends leaving the media in there (not taking it out). th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4VBIFhvML_yVVozz&t=464
Me too. We've been to Henry Ford's Greenfield Village a few times, and ridden around in the old Ford Model T - and it sounds JUST like this tractor. :)
Excellent question! Our tires don't currently match. The newest one, replaced last year, I believe is the 3rd tire on that side in 76 years. The other side, is the 2nd or 3rd tire on that side. The tires don't really wear down as far as the tread (since we're always on dirt, and rarely on cement/blacktop). But the tires do dry-rot over time. The front tires, are the 2nd set since new. Here's the video of us getting the new rear drive tire last year: th-cam.com/video/SzLimmFS3KM/w-d-xo.html
Great question! That’s an alternator that was put on when we converted this tractor from its original 6-volt system, to a 12-volt system. The 12-volt system starts faster (especially in the cold of winter) and makes the headlights actually usable. :)
Great video! Do you ever remove and clean the screen portion as discussed in the clip from the owner's manual that you flashed on screen or will the "daily" maintenance generally suffice?
I've never cleaned that screen portion. From everything I've read/seen (I watch a lot of videos with Dan and Rachel Gingell - Rachel said not to attempt to remove and replace that screen - and I've followed that advice. Here's that video where she talks about it: th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fqBpxgnv5hE_wlvn&t=464
Your description of an oil mist and coated mesh is not how it is meant to filter. It is the hard 180 degree turn the air has to make at the bottom of the filter above the oil. Since the debris is heavier then air the debris does not make the turn and goes into the oil. The oil bath traps the dirt.
The oil that pulls into the media due to the vacuum created is part of how it is meant to filter the dust and dirt. You're correct though - the sharp turn that the debris can't make in the airflow is another part of the filtering process. I should have mentioned that. That is absolutely another important part of the design of the air filtration system. Thanks for bringing that up!
Great question - there is replacement media available for these - here's the link: amzn.to/3TCg0Ka BUT - from what I've heard, it's better to replace the entire canister/media. I understand that the process of removing and re-installing can be difficult - resulting in the new media/mesh not being inserted correctly and causing the system not to filter properly. I've never tried it myself - just going by what I've heard and seen Rachel Gingell say: th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.html
A lot of old-time farmers used the old engine oil for the air cleaner element because of the cost of new oil. As you are aware farmers did not make a fortune working their land.
@@PurpleCollarLife Looks like my 8N is missing the piece that connects the filter to the louvered cover (intake air connection on the diagram). I guess the mouse just climbed through the hole!
I've seen those at some tractor shops - but you can also replace the entire canister (which would include the new filter media) RAParts (1) Air Cleaner Assembly Fits Ford 8N 8N9600B: amzn.to/4eBjoNH
Check out our entire Ford 8N playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
The prefilter you're referring to isn't new, but has been an accessory dating back to the 9N. It is not standard on the newer tractors as shown in your video. My 1967 Ford 2000 has the newer style air filter element, but that's not the same as the prefilter shown in your video. The oil bath filters were standard up to the mid 1960s on most tractor brands. The prefilter shown in your video was the cyclone air filter and was available as an option in 1939.
Excellent! Thanks for clarifying. I only saw it listed as an accessory available at the Ford dealerships starting in about 1950. I didn't realize it was available prior to that. I appreciate you making that correction.
Thank you for this very informative video.
I'm currently extensively restoring a 1949 Ford 8N, which I'm about 90% done.
Keep us posted on your restoration! I love seeing these old workhorses be refurbished and appreciated. Have you seen our other Ford 8N videos: Here's the playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLJy7cj0ut2cBWTStoVA1G_lfQ8hnhUtLu.html
Thanks for the manual!
No problem 👍. I hope you find it as useful as I do. I refer to it often.
Very important information to know, for sure. The oil bath also extends the life of the filter element too. Thanks for sharing, Chad! 😎
Thanks! Such an interesting system.
My first automobile was a 1961 International Scout, and I discovered that it used an oil bath filter when it wheezed to a stop one day while joy riding on dusty forest service roads. Got out to see what was wrong with the 🤬 thing 😂. At that point in time I wasn't too knowledgeable about such things. I pulled the air filter assembly off and checked for fuel, checked for spark and fired it up without the air filter. I then put the filter back on and proceeded on my journey, only to have the same problem. After going through the same process a couple more times, I realized where the problem was. That poor thing was trying to breathe through what appeared to be the La Brea tar pit. There was quite a collection of prehistoric plant and animal artifacts it that goo. I quickly grasped the concept when on closer inspection noticed the oil level mark. Needless to say, after a thorough cleaning, I put clean oil in up to the mark and it was happy 😁. Think I'll go check the air cleaner on my 8n.
Until about a year ago - I had no idea that these oil bath filters were used in some vehicles. I've always liked those old Scouts! Thanks for the story!
I break your rule and use waste engine oil in my Ford 1700 air cleaner after it’s been sitting in the jug to settle out for a while. Haven’t noticed any ill effects… maybe I’ll get burned, but it doesn’t seem like I’m headed to a premature engine overhaul. The diesel isn’t quite as picky as a gas carburetor. I figure the “dirt” just settles into the cup anyway with dirt from the air. Mine has the intake up through the top of the hood and the housing and cup are black which makes the gunk harder to see. Surprised the manual says daily check, although that makes sense if running all day on a farm (8-10 hours). My manual basically says check regularly and change the oil every 50 hours, or when 1/4” of debris has accumulated in the cup. I don’t find it builds up in the cup too quickly. I definitely keep the radiator clean - it has a removable screen in front of it for that purpose. When mowing tall material with seed heads in hot weather, sometimes I have to clean the screen every half hour because the engine temp is creeping up. Interestingly, I don’t get much for seeds and stuff in the air cleaner. Maybe because of the intake orientation? Air has to go up, then down to the bottom of the cleaner.
People have been using the waste oil for decades - and most of them haven't had a problem. I imagine it's because they check their oil bath more often, and replaced that oil more often.
Hey friend there is a neat feature to these old fords a friend of mine said that the shifter if it's in neutral and if it's a 4 speed transmission the lever can be pulled up an pushed to the side for easy access to the tractor
That's 100% correct. However, I never do it. The rubber boot on our shifter is old (and painted over) - so when you pull the shifter up, it actually pulls the boot up off the base. Then you have to work to get it (the boot) back down.
Radiator plugging with field dust, and maybe dirt if you’ve added a front end loader? Consider going to a pusher fan. Thinking about all the oil bath air cleaners I’ve used, I wonder if the best oil might be non-detergent, because it doesn’t suspend dirt but lets it drop to the bottom of the sump. Or maybe it makes no difference.🙄
I actually brought this up (pusher fan) in the video. My Ford 2N tractor had a pusher fan when I purchased it. It had been used mostly for stationary PTO work, and the pusher fan was evidently better than the normal pull-fan for that sitting still work. But it didn't take me long to figure out that for my use (driving through the field, mowing the lawn) the pusher fan was pushing the heat in front of me, and I was driving right back through it. That tractor would overheat pretty fast, until I switched out the fan for a normal one. Good question about the non-detergent oils - I'm not sure.
@@PurpleCollarLife Interesting. Yeah, I’d figured you might want to move more air with a pusher because the engine is hot. But from what you say, just having a fan with another blade or two might not be enough to make the pusher equal in cooling. I know some guys add screens, but everything needs to be cleaned.
One of the benefits of the pusher fan is it's easier to clean the radiator with compressed air or water if you're sure the ignition won't get wet
Makes no difference, the tractor bounces so much it's gonna shake it around so much.
Another good video to watch even though I don’t have one! So question: if you didn’t have the history with this 8N and you could only have 1 tractor (heaven forbid!!) would you choose this over your John Deere? I have a neighbor who swears by his old tractor and hardly ever see him on the new…
Thank you for watching! That's certainly a tough question. There are advantages to each.
Ford 8N:
can go places the John Deere 2210 can't (woods, mud, snow) even with 2-wheel drive
is much better for 3-point implements
is easy to maintain and service
is very inexpensive to fix if something does break/go wrong
John Deere 2210:
The front-end loader is a huge benefit
hydrostatic transmission is really nice for loader work, snow plowing, etc.
Is compact enough to fit in some tight spaces
the diesel engine is more fuel efficient
If I absolutely had to choose one - and didn't have the family history with the 8N - I'd probably still choose the 8N, just due to the amount of work it can do that the little JD can't. But I'd certainly miss that front end loader - I use the bucket and pallet forks all the time.
Our 8N manual clearly stated sae30 weight for both the engine and wet bath air cleaner.
That's true - but 70 years ago, they didn't have the oils of today. I actually talk about this in a video that I'll be posting next week about an oil change with the Ford 8N. Thanks for watching!
I believe the oil bath air filters are actual intended to have nondetergent oil used in them. modern oil hold contaminate in suspension so the oil filter can remove them, non-detergent oil allows the contaminants to fall out of suspension, Thats why all the older auto engines didn't have oil filters and the bottom of the oil pan would collect a layer of gray sludge in the bottom, that was the aluminum from the pistons, worn Babbit material and cast iron from the cylinders laying in the bottom of the engine and the oil was relatively clean every morning on startup. But if you check it daily it makes no difference. If the oil level is changing in the cup, you may have a filter medium that is plugged up and needs replaced. All the vehicle I have had over the years would keep a constant oil level if flowing air thru them normally. Restriction causes higher air flow velocities and that caries the oil up and into the engine
Right! I use SAE 10 so that in the single digits temperature in winter it still works and does not get sucked up into the engine.
@@FromSteelToWood Thanks, Joe!
Thanks @RodneyHayes-d3y
Enjoyed the video. I have been using and maintaining a Ford 600 for 40 years. Do you ever remove and clean the metal mess wicking media?
Congrats on 40 years with the Ford 600! That's awesome. We never have removed that metal wicking media. From everything I've read and seen, it's not necessary unless you're having a problem. Ours still works great! And I'm not 100% sure that my Great Uncle didn't replace that entire assembly at some point during the tractor's history. Rachel Gingell mentioned in this video that she recommends leaving the media in there (not taking it out). th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4VBIFhvML_yVVozz&t=464
@@PurpleCollarLife Thanks for the response.
My 67 Deere 1020RU has an oil bath air filter. I clean it out every spring.
Excellent!
Like the sound of the engine.
Me too. We've been to Henry Ford's Greenfield Village a few times, and ridden around in the old Ford Model T - and it sounds JUST like this tractor. :)
Great video. I'm curious, how many times have the drive tires been replaced over the life of the 8N tractor?
Excellent question! Our tires don't currently match. The newest one, replaced last year, I believe is the 3rd tire on that side in 76 years. The other side, is the 2nd or 3rd tire on that side. The tires don't really wear down as far as the tread (since we're always on dirt, and rarely on cement/blacktop). But the tires do dry-rot over time. The front tires, are the 2nd set since new. Here's the video of us getting the new rear drive tire last year: th-cam.com/video/SzLimmFS3KM/w-d-xo.html
Just caught you on Back 40 live,just subcribed and will be watching..
Thank you! I don't get to catch the Back 40 live on Friday nights as often anymore. But it's always a good time when I can make it.
Great information. 👍👍👍👍😎
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment - and the thumbs up!
Hi, great video. I was wondering, is that an alternator on the engine, if so, is it original. Thanks. Jimmy.
Great question! That’s an alternator that was put on when we converted this tractor from its original 6-volt system, to a 12-volt system. The 12-volt system starts faster (especially in the cold of winter) and makes the headlights actually usable. :)
Great video! Do you ever remove and clean the screen portion as discussed in the clip from the owner's manual that you flashed on screen or will the "daily" maintenance generally suffice?
I've never cleaned that screen portion. From everything I've read/seen (I watch a lot of videos with Dan and Rachel Gingell - Rachel said not to attempt to remove and replace that screen - and I've followed that advice. Here's that video where she talks about it: th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fqBpxgnv5hE_wlvn&t=464
@@PurpleCollarLife Gotcha, thanks!
Your description of an oil mist and coated mesh is not how it is meant to filter. It is the hard 180 degree turn the air has to make at the bottom of the filter above the oil. Since the debris is heavier then air the debris does not make the turn and goes into the oil. The oil bath traps the dirt.
The oil that pulls into the media due to the vacuum created is part of how it is meant to filter the dust and dirt. You're correct though - the sharp turn that the debris can't make in the airflow is another part of the filtering process. I should have mentioned that. That is absolutely another important part of the design of the air filtration system. Thanks for bringing that up!
Good Morning Sir 🌞🌞 Very Nice Ford 8 N Family Tractor 👍😇👌OUTSTANDING Tips 👌😇👍Full Watch 🧐👍Be Well Sir and have an nice week end Cheers 🍻🍻
Thanks, Dave! Have a great week. Thanks for the full watch and comment!!
How do you get the filter out of it and get a new one for it
Great question - there is replacement media available for these - here's the link: amzn.to/3TCg0Ka
BUT - from what I've heard, it's better to replace the entire canister/media. I understand that the process of removing and re-installing can be difficult - resulting in the new media/mesh not being inserted correctly and causing the system not to filter properly. I've never tried it myself - just going by what I've heard and seen Rachel Gingell say: th-cam.com/video/_rN9nSO12AU/w-d-xo.html
A lot of old-time farmers used the old engine oil for the air cleaner element because of the cost of new oil. As you are aware farmers did not make a fortune working their land.
You make an excellent point here that I hadn't thought of. You're 100% correct.
I found a dead mouse in my oil bath filter last week on my 8n.
That's not good! How do you think he got in there?
@@PurpleCollarLife Looks like my 8N is missing the piece that connects the filter to the louvered cover (intake air connection on the diagram). I guess the mouse just climbed through the hole!
I would like to get mine running like that It's all there except for the oil bath At the bottom of the canister
I've seen those at some tractor shops - but you can also replace the entire canister (which would include the new filter media)
RAParts (1) Air Cleaner Assembly Fits Ford 8N 8N9600B: amzn.to/4eBjoNH
@@PurpleCollarLife obliged