Thanks Andy,for that nice little mention, yes its Don here, on my Wife's tablet Susan ( Roycroft) Iv'e just restrung my Crafter DE-7 with 13's, and I tune down a semitone (particularly with 13's as it's a little easier to sing- less tension on neck- and I always use PH/ Bronze strings. Tom Fogerty also now drops his tuning down a semitone for the Same reason apparently, anyway thanks again ( I almost feel famous now) it's Always good to watch your videos, And your choice of guitars, warm regards Don 😊😊😊
@@SillyMoustache Keep 'em coming Andy, and Just love your A/ guitar collection, I'm not sure if Iv'e already mentioned this but I brought a Yamaha Acoustonic ( cutaway version) FGC-TA, and Wow what a guitar, with it's inbuilt effects ( chorus, reverb, delay) I can soo close to the 12 string sound Iv'e always loved yet with the relative simplicity of a 6 string instrument, Iv'e always loved the 12 stg.sound, in fact my Brother played a Burns 12 str.electric-solid body electric in our Band ( great sound) But he spent a lot of time tuning ,and I found the same on my Acoustic 12's I had over the years, but now my Yamaha with it's built in chorus, it's doing me fine, kind regards Don
Thank you for the interesting insight into your collection and your thoughts on guitar strings. We are quite similar on the subject. We seem to like the same types of acoustic guitars, we despise cutaway models and think a lot about string choices. We're about 40 years apart, but I think you'd be great to have a lemonade with, haha. I really enjoy your videos, so thank you very much! I have a Martin HD-28VS that I play with 0.12 to 0.54 B or PB strings. Recently I had 0.13 - 0.56 Monels on it and the instrument was absolutely dead. However, I like the 0.12 Monels on my J45, as she actually tolerates all kinds of strings. I prefer 0.12 PB strings on my small body 0-18VS and I enjoy my D-35JC with gauges up to 0.13 to 0.56 of B or PB strings. As far as brands are concerned, I particularly like John Pearse or Martin strings.
Hi, thanks fr making contact. A good friend of mine recently (and sadly) sold his 12 fret Martin (D18VS) and it was a very nice guitars - we made a video comparing it with my Collings DS1ASB - th-cam.com/video/0MUA0FgDUOc/w-d-xo.html I have always maintained that a dread needed mediums, but I'm experimenting with lights currently as my fingers are showing their age now. (I've still got a considerable stock of mediums so I'll use them 'til their gone!) I've tried JPs and found that they still die too quickly for me.
Very nice video. I play my Breedlove concertina more than my others. About the same size as your Waterloo. I much prefer a OM or OO size guitar, due to the ease of playing for my arthritic shoulders. Wonderful guitar collection. Thank you for sharing.
@@SillyMoustache yes, I did refer to the OM, although I do own a Martin OOO15sm, I’m on the hunt for the proper Furch OM or MARTIN OM28 to add to my collection and the OM label seems to be more prevalent now in listings.
I use EJ-16's on all my steel string acoustics except my Collings. That gets John Pearse Acoustic set 600L phosphor bronze wound light gauge (0.012-0.053). On electrics, I use D'addario half-round nickel (EHR50 0.012-0.052). These minimize finger squeak when sliding which can be annoying on electric. On the solid body tele copy I built many years ago I use any set that is 0.010 - 0.048 for ease in bending. I haven't used this one in many years because most of my playing these days is on acoustics or the hollow body electric.
Hi Joel, funny, some swear on JPs but for me (even if they don't arrive pre-corroded) they go dead within a week, whereas other uncoated brands usually last me 2-4 months.
I’ve gravitated to silk and phosphor for my 000 and walnut dread…they are more flexible and seem to have better intonation. My mahogany dread sound brighter with silk and steel. And an old Gibson is best with traditional phosphor bronze. I quite using coated strings due to them lasting too long. Volume isn’t an issue on the silks in this age of great pickups.
Martin makes silk and phosphor. The core is more flexible, and doesn’t go sharp as quickly. But yeah, each guitar and each person have to find their own happy place.
Hi Andy, I remember Guitarist magazine doing a review of the DS2H back in the 90’s I think it was, I might still have the edition somewhere in the loft or garage. I had a hankering for one after reading the article but as you know they’re not as abundant as the D2H dreadnought. I was wondering what light gauge (EJ 16’s) would sound and feel like, I know you prefer EJ17’s with light top strings but a comparison with a full set of lights would be very interesting if you have the time and inclination?
Hi, I have a copy of that article. That one, and mine (the first shipment of new Collings into the UK ??) I believe that they had corresponding serial numbers. I believe that the sales guy that sold it to me ended up buying the other one. As it happens, I tried EJ16s on my 2003 DS1 recently and played it (in public!) last night. I did this because I'm having hand issues at present. It was a tad easier to play of course, and a little less strident. I'll be restringing it soon with XS mediums like I've done on my two other Collings dreads. BTW I stopped putting light 1st and 2nd strings on ages ago. Thanks for watching.
@@SillyMoustache thanks Andy, I also remember the fabulous Acoustic Centre at Wapping. Mr Brady was enthusing about a new acoustic, a small model by the name of ‘Collings’, he was blown away by it. I purchased a Lowden 035 but should have taken more notice of the new kid on the block, needless to say I’ve since caught up 😎
I "largely" use light gauge (0.012 on) for Acoustic guitars with a neck of 25 inches and less, and use medium gauge on 25.4 and longer scale guitars. O00/OM & smaller bodies, light.
Yeah, Tex, I've always tended to follow the string gauges recommended by the makers. Mediums on dreads, and resos and lights on everything else. Thanks, as always.
Hey Andy, it amazes me how closely your collection matches up to mine..but, your choice of strings seems to depend on the size of your guitar. I have read and heard from several builders that the top material should be the determining factor when deciding on string gauge..I e. Sitka, other than Adirondack, get lights, Adi can handle mediums. Have you heard anything like that?
Interesting! No I hadn't heard that theory at all. I think that the type of sitka is less significant than the thickness of it, as sensibly an extremely light/thin top will resonate more. I once had a custom made Huss & Dalton DS12 which was unplayable unless played lightly with an action of .125" or more. It was latterly diagnosed as having far too light a top. I lost a lot of money on that! Dunno if it still exists or collapsed on someone. I tend to use the gauges recommended by the builders.
Andy, I own a Martin 00-18 and want to slot my bridge for a possible better tone. The guitar sounds great as is, so what is your opinion. I just don’t know if I’ll hear a difference. ??
I'm aware of the process - even thought about it myself. If you have a good break angle over the saddle, and the bridgeplate is ok -- y'know, if it ain't broke .....
I do not remember you ever showing us your resonators. I would be quite interested in your thoughts as I am considering a purchase of a resonator as my next installment. I would hate to select unwisely. Thank you.
Hi John, as far as I'm concerned, the Dobro version is best as a lap top, and the National design best as a round neck / "bottleneck design. Here's a vid I made about a year ago : th-cam.com/video/IxlPg08EUUw/w-d-xo.html.
Does that Waterloo have fan or cross bracing? I have an Iris OGe that is modeled after a Gibson LG-2. Iris is a similar idea to Circle Strings guitars like Waterloo I'd to Collings. Also a 12-fret.
I used to answer this by saying that if the house was burning dwn, they'd find my carbonised husk half way down the stairs under about twenty guitar cases ... but I'm feeling my age and old Arthur Itis is attacking my thumbs. I think ..... if I decided to "liquidate" my humble collection, it would be my Collings 0002h.
@@jeffhildreth9244 Jeff, it is a very good instruments, apart from its looks - the neck widths and profile is possibly the best I have. The tone is beautiful, and improving daily.
@@SillyMoustache "apart from its looks.. good or bad ? Thanks as I am looking for just such a guitar. Very hard to find the specs under $6K USD. I can afford that , I cannot justify it. I am in a "I'm done" with Martin (after 63 years) owning 15 of their guitars plus a custom ordered, hideously expensive mandolin which was the king of bow wows. A veritable DOG. Offed in 30 days. The latest event has me looking elsewhere. They are no longer " the guitar that everyone wants". CFM IV screwed that up. I am looking at S Cruz, Collings and now the Eastman.. they currently are outdoing Martin. BTW I lived in Santa Cruz in the mid to late 80s.. perhaps I told you that.
As some wise guy once said, everything about a guitar affects the sound, but apart from the break angle on the slot-head being slightly greater giving a tad more tension over the nut, I don't really think there is anything that noticeable. I just think they are a superior design.
That DS2H sounds better and better every time you play it. I am still loving mine after your tutelage during its purchase. I love all my Gibsons but the Collings is just a special guitar.
@@SillyMoustache fair enough, is there one in that price range that is the least terrible you'd recommend for someone like myself who only has that much to spend?
@@iryan9 Hi Iryan, I'd like to help you but I'm not in the retail (or any other) business, and not aware of what is on the market, here (UK)or in the US. However there are many brands especially made in the far east, that, seem to be well made, but I'm not expert on them. Further, What I would suggest is that you focus in on what kind of guitar , scale length, nut/string spacing dimensions etc, to help you focus in on what you want. If a small body (Size "0" is what you want, then I believe that Eastman are currently offering the the "E1P" which I did try some time ago. If the thin neck (1 & 11/16") suits you, and you like a Size "0") then it might be worth investigating. Sigma guitars might also be a possibility, but I have not seen/played one myself. Blueridge also make some nice size zero guitars BR-341, 361, 371. (1 & 7/8" nut). Hope that helps.
As @SillyMoustache mentioned, I would look at Eastman guitars. Like him I am a Collings guy, but I bought an Eastman a few years ago to play out and about and I am very impressed with the value. Best value in a guitar I've come across, and I have played many Eastmans since and they all have been impressive.
Hi Andy. Very informative. Thank you for sharing this… have a good weekend. Be well.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks Andy,for that nice little mention, yes its Don here, on my Wife's tablet Susan ( Roycroft) Iv'e just restrung my Crafter DE-7 with 13's, and I tune down a semitone (particularly with 13's as it's a little easier to sing- less tension on neck- and I always use PH/ Bronze strings. Tom Fogerty also now drops his tuning down a semitone for the Same reason apparently, anyway thanks again ( I almost feel famous now) it's Always good to watch your videos, And your choice of guitars, warm regards Don 😊😊😊
6
You are most welcome Don, Andy
@@SillyMoustache Keep 'em coming Andy, and Just love your A/ guitar collection, I'm not sure if Iv'e already mentioned this but I brought a Yamaha Acoustonic ( cutaway version) FGC-TA, and Wow what a guitar, with it's inbuilt effects ( chorus, reverb, delay) I can soo close to the 12 string sound Iv'e always loved yet with the relative simplicity of a 6 string instrument, Iv'e always loved the 12 stg.sound, in fact my Brother played a Burns 12 str.electric-solid body electric in our Band ( great sound) But he spent a lot of time tuning ,and I found the same on my Acoustic 12's I had over the years, but now my Yamaha with it's built in chorus, it's doing me fine, kind regards Don
I love your Martin 12, wow and the 54-12 gauge, tuned down, great stuff, I don't think I ever Played a Collings, but yours sound great,regards Don 😊😊😊
Hi Don, glad you enjoyed them.
Thank you for the interesting insight into your collection and your thoughts on guitar strings.
We are quite similar on the subject. We seem to like the same types of acoustic guitars, we despise cutaway models and think a lot about string choices.
We're about 40 years apart, but I think you'd be great to have a lemonade with, haha. I really enjoy your videos, so thank you very much!
I have a Martin HD-28VS that I play with 0.12 to 0.54 B or PB strings. Recently I had 0.13 - 0.56 Monels on it and the instrument was absolutely dead.
However, I like the 0.12 Monels on my J45, as she actually tolerates all kinds of strings.
I prefer 0.12 PB strings on my small body 0-18VS and I enjoy my D-35JC with gauges up to 0.13 to 0.56 of B or PB strings.
As far as brands are concerned, I particularly like John Pearse or Martin strings.
Hi, thanks fr making contact. A good friend of mine recently (and sadly) sold his 12 fret Martin (D18VS) and it was a very nice guitars - we made a video comparing it with my Collings DS1ASB - th-cam.com/video/0MUA0FgDUOc/w-d-xo.html
I have always maintained that a dread needed mediums, but I'm experimenting with lights currently as my fingers are showing their age now. (I've still got a considerable stock of mediums so I'll use them 'til their gone!) I've tried JPs and found that they still die too quickly for me.
beautiful collings
Many many thanks
Very nice video. I play my Breedlove concertina more than my others. About the same size as your Waterloo. I much prefer a OM or OO size guitar, due to the ease of playing for my arthritic shoulders.
Wonderful guitar collection. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing! Old Arthur (itis) is taking a toll on my hands now! Interesting that you mention an OM but not the 000 that it was modelled on.
@@SillyMoustache yes, I did refer to the OM, although I do own a Martin OOO15sm, I’m on the hunt for the proper Furch OM or MARTIN OM28 to add to my collection and the OM label seems to be more prevalent now in listings.
I use EJ-16's on all my steel string acoustics except my Collings. That gets John Pearse Acoustic set 600L phosphor bronze wound light gauge (0.012-0.053). On electrics, I use D'addario half-round nickel (EHR50 0.012-0.052). These minimize finger squeak when sliding which can be annoying on electric. On the solid body tele copy I built many years ago I use any set that is 0.010 - 0.048 for ease in bending. I haven't used this one in many years because most of my playing these days is on acoustics or the hollow body electric.
Hi Joel, funny, some swear on JPs but for me (even if they don't arrive pre-corroded) they go dead within a week, whereas other uncoated brands usually last me 2-4 months.
I’ve gravitated to silk and phosphor for my 000 and walnut dread…they are more flexible and seem to have better intonation. My mahogany dread sound brighter with silk and steel. And an old Gibson is best with traditional phosphor bronze. I quite using coated strings due to them lasting too long. Volume isn’t an issue on the silks in this age of great pickups.
Silk & phosphor? Which strings ? Why would he intonate better? Well, strings, picks etc., are as personal a choice as underpants!
Martin makes silk and phosphor. The core is more flexible, and doesn’t go sharp as quickly. But yeah, each guitar and each person have to find their own happy place.
Hi Andy, I remember Guitarist magazine doing a review of the DS2H back in the 90’s I think it was, I might still have the edition somewhere in the loft or garage. I had a hankering for one after reading the article but as you know they’re not as abundant as the D2H dreadnought.
I was wondering what light gauge (EJ 16’s) would sound and feel like, I know you prefer EJ17’s with light top strings but a comparison with a full set of lights would be very interesting if you have the time and inclination?
Hi, I have a copy of that article. That one, and mine (the first shipment of new Collings into the UK ??) I believe that they had corresponding serial numbers.
I believe that the sales guy that sold it to me ended up buying the other one. As it happens, I tried EJ16s on my 2003 DS1 recently and played it (in public!) last night. I did this because I'm having hand issues at present. It was a tad easier to play of course, and a little less strident. I'll be restringing it soon with XS mediums like I've done on my two other Collings dreads. BTW I stopped putting light 1st and 2nd strings on ages ago. Thanks for watching.
@@SillyMoustache thanks Andy, I also remember the fabulous Acoustic Centre at Wapping. Mr Brady was enthusing about a new acoustic, a small model by the name of ‘Collings’, he was blown away by it. I purchased a Lowden 035 but should have taken more notice of the new kid on the block, needless to say I’ve since caught up 😎
I "largely" use light gauge (0.012 on) for Acoustic guitars with a neck of 25 inches and less, and use medium gauge on 25.4 and longer scale guitars. O00/OM & smaller bodies, light.
Yeah, Tex, I've always tended to follow the string gauges recommended by the makers. Mediums on dreads, and resos and lights on everything else. Thanks, as always.
Hey Andy, it amazes me how closely your collection matches up to mine..but, your choice of strings seems to depend on the size of your guitar. I have read and heard from several builders that the top material should be the determining factor when deciding on string gauge..I e. Sitka, other than Adirondack, get lights, Adi can handle mediums. Have you heard anything like that?
Interesting! No I hadn't heard that theory at all. I think that the type of sitka is less significant than the thickness of it, as sensibly an extremely light/thin top will resonate more.
I once had a custom made Huss & Dalton DS12 which was unplayable unless played lightly with an action of .125" or more. It was latterly diagnosed as having far too light a top.
I lost a lot of money on that! Dunno if it still exists or collapsed on someone.
I tend to use the gauges recommended by the builders.
Andy, I own a Martin 00-18 and want to slot my bridge for a possible better tone. The guitar sounds great as is, so what is your opinion. I just don’t know if I’ll hear a difference. ??
I'm aware of the process - even thought about it myself. If you have a good break angle over the saddle, and the bridgeplate is ok -- y'know, if it ain't broke .....
I concour with that answer. Thank you
I do not remember you ever showing us your resonators. I would be quite interested in your thoughts as I am considering a purchase of a resonator as my next installment. I would hate to select unwisely.
Thank you.
Hi John, as far as I'm concerned, the Dobro version is best as a lap top, and the National design best as a round neck / "bottleneck design. Here's a vid I made about a year ago : th-cam.com/video/IxlPg08EUUw/w-d-xo.html.
@@SillyMoustache Thank you. I shall watch this now.
❤
Does that Waterloo have fan or cross bracing? I have an Iris OGe that is modeled after a Gibson LG-2. Iris is a similar idea to Circle Strings guitars like Waterloo I'd to Collings. Also a 12-fret.
Hi, my WL12 is cross braced.
OK.. Now for the question of the day...
If you could only keep one of your guitars, which would it be?
I used to answer this by saying that if the house was burning dwn, they'd find my carbonised husk half way down the stairs under about twenty guitar cases ... but I'm feeling my age and old Arthur Itis is attacking my thumbs. I think ..... if I decided to "liquidate" my humble collection, it would be my Collings 0002h.
@@SillyMoustache Thanks. Where does your Eastman E40-00 lie in your "collection" as a player.
@@jeffhildreth9244 Jeff, it is a very good instruments, apart from its looks - the neck widths and profile is possibly the best I have. The tone is beautiful, and improving daily.
@@SillyMoustache "apart from its looks.. good or bad ?
Thanks as I am looking for just such a guitar. Very hard to find the specs under $6K USD.
I can afford that , I cannot justify it.
I am in a "I'm done" with Martin (after 63 years) owning 15 of their guitars plus a
custom ordered, hideously expensive mandolin which was the king of bow wows.
A veritable DOG. Offed in 30 days.
The latest event has me looking elsewhere.
They are no longer " the guitar that everyone wants". CFM IV screwed that up.
I am looking at S Cruz, Collings and now the Eastman.. they currently are outdoing Martin.
BTW I lived in Santa Cruz in the mid to late 80s.. perhaps I told you that.
@@jeffhildreth9244 It looks beautiful. I believe that Eastman have now added this model to their standard range. Should be well within your budget.
Do you think the slot heads change the sound of the guitar at all ?
As some wise guy once said, everything about a guitar affects the sound, but apart from the break angle on the slot-head being slightly greater giving a tad more tension over the nut, I don't really think there is anything that noticeable. I just think they are a superior design.
That DS2H sounds better and better every time you play it. I am still loving mine after your tutelage during its purchase. I love all my Gibsons but the Collings is just a special guitar.
Hi Shawn, Glad to hear. We should hook up for a chat sometime!
If you had $1000 to buy a single acoustic today, what would you get?
That's about £870 I really don't know of any guitar that I'd want for that amount.
@@SillyMoustache fair enough, is there one in that price range that is the least terrible you'd recommend for someone like myself who only has that much to spend?
@@iryan9 Hi Iryan, I'd like to help you but I'm not in the retail (or any other) business, and not aware of what is on the market, here (UK)or in the US.
However there are many brands especially made in the far east, that, seem to be well made, but I'm not expert on them. Further, What I would suggest is that you focus in on what kind of guitar , scale length, nut/string spacing dimensions etc, to help you focus in on what you want. If a small body (Size "0" is what you want, then I believe that Eastman are currently offering the the "E1P" which I did try some time ago. If the thin neck (1 & 11/16") suits you, and you like a Size "0") then it might be worth investigating. Sigma guitars might also be a possibility, but I have not seen/played one myself. Blueridge also make some nice size zero guitars BR-341, 361, 371. (1 & 7/8" nut). Hope that helps.
As @SillyMoustache mentioned, I would look at Eastman guitars. Like him I am a Collings guy, but I bought an Eastman a few years ago to play out and about and I am very impressed with the value. Best value in a guitar I've come across, and I have played many Eastmans since and they all have been impressive.