PWM Drive Frequency is actually how many thousands of times per second each motor phase is fired. The higher PWM numbers feel softer because of the fact that for each ON power pulse, there is an OFF power pulse for a set amount of time. So if you were to drop the PWM to 16Khtz, the motor will be on power twice as much, then so on and so forth for 8Khtz, 4Khtz, etc. I hope that makes sense, but the gist of it is that the higher the PWM frequency, the more time the motor is OFF POWER. And with that being said, for throttle PWM frequency, the higher it is, the more heat is generated inside of the esc. There’s also more going on for each power pulse being sent to the motor. It doesn’t act like a light switch when the motor phases are fired for any given throttle position. For example, you have the trigger pulled to 30% throttle. The esc isn’t going to fire the motor phases immediately with 30% power. There is a rate (amount of time) of power increase for that pulse to get to 30% power output. If anyone is familiar with using an oscilloscope to view A/C electrical waves, it is very similar to the difference between a Sine and Square wave. And in my option, that is what the “Throttle Rate Control” does. It controls how quickly the power output pulse reaches the amount of power that is being commanded by the transmitter. As for the Softening Value, I believe the esc manual defines it by saying that, it pulls out a certain amount of timing from the motor for a given throttle range, in order to decrease the low end torque generation. But then once the throttle gets above the Softening Range %, that timing is added back into the motor. And don’t quote me on this, but I believe that it can also pull timing to the point that you can have the motor operate at a lower timing value than what the can is actually set at. I hope this explanation helps someone with understand how the esc actually operates a motor. I’m in no way an expert on HW stuff, but I have a little time with them. If it were an R1 digital-3 or Yokomo RPX-2, then I could give definitive answers on just about everything. That’s what I spend all my time on.
I appreciate that insight, you’re definitely far more knowledgeable on the electronics side of things than I am. That explanation makes a lot of sense, I’m far more mechanically minded so this helps a lot. Thanks for watching.
this was great to show people exactly how to setup their rigs i even learned some thing today and i run rcs a lot drive frequency is not talked about a lot in 1/10th scale off road racing so it its was cool to learn some thing that i dident know all to much about
I’m stoked to hear that and thanks for watching, I’m glad the video helped you out! I found that out too the racers talk about totally different settings compared to drift settings but still some things I want to try out, definitely a lot to mess with!
@@shredcraftrctuning can be super fun if you dont get tuners block but this video makes me wonder how many things racing could use to make the cars better maybe i will have to try that on the next tune sesh
Great information, a note though your max boost RPM is quite high, while your boost been quite low. This could cause that your are on the edge of hitting your max boost before you hit turbo. To me this is something to check because this will amplify throttle response difference between a full lipo and an empty one. You may not feel it because you also have you Boost start verry low, some added timing on the can or running a 10.5 vs 13.5 but I know that a 13.5 will need some timing to hit 38k.
This is a 10.5 with a 24t pinion, the turbo turns on at full throttle, boost up to 38k when full rpm is 70k and like I said it’s what’s been working for me. My can is at 35 and I rarely go full pull on the trigger but I can tell when a battery is getting low.
I have a question about turbo and boost 😢 when you hit boost and hold it too long does the motor power down mine seems to power down when I hold it too long but as soon as I let go and hold it again it comes right back on. 😅
Again lots of variables here, you could be discharging your battery too fast and the esc can’t maintain voltage. The motor could be seeing too much boost and turbo timing combined with can timing.
@@shredcraftrc I know this Upload is about ESC Settings But when You mentioned the Shock and Spring Setup You run I had to add to the comments. I've found really good results running that exact Spring and Shock Combo. This Combo Works Well in the RDX and also the Yokomo MD 1.0 Using Yokomo Big Bores with stock internals and blue o rings with Yokomo 50 Oil. If You like The Car front to Lift and Bob and sit in a good amount of Sag while maintaining good front grip then This might be for You , Some might find it a little too active , If so use Yokomo 100-150 Oil and it will give less movement and more of a slower shock feel with very little front lift and bobbing. Carpet , Concrete , P Tile , Doesn't seem to matter with this Spring and Shock setup. As regards the ESC tuning / I'm Trying to stay below 60 degrees of Total Timing myself , running almost 80 Degrees in Total previously , Hobbywing XD10 and D10 Motor combo handled it anyway , but to be safe I brought it all back down below the 60 degrees Total Great info Vid SC , Really appreciate the time and effort You put into this Channel
@ Glad you like the video……Shocks and setup are very subjective for each individual chassis and surface, it very hard to say “this is the best” because everyone’s cars weigh different amounts and have different layouts of their electronics along with driving on different surfaces. Glad you found what works for your setup.
Yep, like I said in the video, I start with it up high and go down from there, I like my wheels to immediately slow down for snappy transition and that all goes back to how you want your car to feel.
Hey brother. Question.. im planning on upgrading my esc, possibly motor or both. Whats the difference between the HW XD10, XR10, XR10 Pro and XR10 Pro G2? They all look to do the same things but the XD10 seems to have more frequency inputs for smoother throttle
Xd 10 is specific to drifting so that’s what I use. I can’t speak to the others but I believe they are more intended for racing and other cars. Go with what is made for what you’re doing.
Man no regrets on the xd10 esc. Dang night and day difference compared to the 10bl120. I can't explain it but everything even down to the steering is so smooth. Probably going to pull the trigger on the d10 10.5
@@Rayradityaa yes I did, boost and turbo was real basic with only degree adjustments. Honestly, it was perfect for a starter car! If you're wanting boost, turbo, throttle, brake curves, what RPMs you want turbo or boost to kick in and all the goodness..just get the XD10. Right now you could pick up the XD10 ESC $159.99 and with code:HWTRYOUTS you could snag it for 139.99
Great videos sir!
Thank you Geoff! 🤙🙏
PWM Drive Frequency is actually how many thousands of times per second each motor phase is fired. The higher PWM numbers feel softer because of the fact that for each ON power pulse, there is an OFF power pulse for a set amount of time. So if you were to drop the PWM to 16Khtz, the motor will be on power twice as much, then so on and so forth for 8Khtz, 4Khtz, etc. I hope that makes sense, but the gist of it is that the higher the PWM frequency, the more time the motor is OFF POWER. And with that being said, for throttle PWM frequency, the higher it is, the more heat is generated inside of the esc.
There’s also more going on for each power pulse being sent to the motor. It doesn’t act like a light switch when the motor phases are fired for any given throttle position. For example, you have the trigger pulled to 30% throttle. The esc isn’t going to fire the motor phases immediately with 30% power. There is a rate (amount of time) of power increase for that pulse to get to 30% power output. If anyone is familiar with using an oscilloscope to view A/C electrical waves, it is very similar to the difference between a Sine and Square wave. And in my option, that is what the “Throttle Rate Control” does. It controls how quickly the power output pulse reaches the amount of power that is being commanded by the transmitter.
As for the Softening Value, I believe the esc manual defines it by saying that, it pulls out a certain amount of timing from the motor for a given throttle range, in order to decrease the low end torque generation. But then once the throttle gets above the Softening Range %, that timing is added back into the motor. And don’t quote me on this, but I believe that it can also pull timing to the point that you can have the motor operate at a lower timing value than what the can is actually set at.
I hope this explanation helps someone with understand how the esc actually operates a motor. I’m in no way an expert on HW stuff, but I have a little time with them. If it were an R1 digital-3 or Yokomo RPX-2, then I could give definitive answers on just about everything. That’s what I spend all my time on.
I appreciate that insight, you’re definitely far more knowledgeable on the electronics side of things than I am. That explanation makes a lot of sense, I’m far more mechanically minded so this helps a lot. Thanks for watching.
Another king serving his people
Haha thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! 🤙
Another banger🔥🔥🔥 helping us all get better, thank you.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video!🤙 thanks for watching 🙏
this was great to show people exactly how to setup their rigs i even learned some thing today and i run rcs a lot drive frequency is not talked about a lot in 1/10th scale off road racing so it its was cool to learn some thing that i dident know all to much about
I’m stoked to hear that and thanks for watching, I’m glad the video helped you out! I found that out too the racers talk about totally different settings compared to drift settings but still some things I want to try out, definitely a lot to mess with!
@@shredcraftrctuning can be super fun if you dont get tuners block but this video makes me wonder how many things racing could use to make the cars better maybe i will have to try that on the next tune sesh
It’s fun getting to feel the difference the changes make. 🤙
@shredcraftrc especially when they make a huge difference and just blow you away it's always sick
Very nice detailed video
Thank you 🤙
Great vid as always! ✌️😊
Thank you! I’m stoked you enjoyed it! 🤙 thanks for watching!!
Nice vid brother
Thank you, I appreciate that and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Awesome video
Thank you, I’m glad you like it, thanks for watching!
Thank you sir! Great info. Just wondering where that raised battery tray is from.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching, the battery tray is something I made.
Great information, a note though your max boost RPM is quite high, while your boost been quite low. This could cause that your are on the edge of hitting your max boost before you hit turbo. To me this is something to check because this will amplify throttle response difference between a full lipo and an empty one. You may not feel it because you also have you Boost start verry low, some added timing on the can or running a 10.5 vs 13.5 but I know that a 13.5 will need some timing to hit 38k.
This is a 10.5 with a 24t pinion, the turbo turns on at full throttle, boost up to 38k when full rpm is 70k and like I said it’s what’s been working for me. My can is at 35 and I rarely go full pull on the trigger but I can tell when a battery is getting low.
I have a question about turbo and boost 😢 when you hit boost and hold it too long does the motor power down mine seems to power down when I hold it too long but as soon as I let go and hold it again it comes right back on. 😅
Again lots of variables here, you could be discharging your battery too fast and the esc can’t maintain voltage. The motor could be seeing too much boost and turbo timing combined with can timing.
whats your mechanical timing on the motor?
Stock, should be right around 30 degrees on the can.
How many camber, toe & caster in RDX sir?
Check out my full alignment video - RC Drift Car Alignment Settings 2.0
th-cam.com/video/yXIpfMGtKvc/w-d-xo.html
What coils are you using on the yokomo shocks? Did you use the Reve D shock shafts? Thank you
Stock RDX front springs and ReveD medium in the rear, all stock big bore internals.
@@shredcraftrc I know this Upload is about ESC Settings
But when You mentioned the Shock and Spring Setup You run I had to add to the comments.
I've found really good results running that exact Spring and Shock Combo.
This Combo Works Well in the RDX and also the Yokomo MD 1.0 Using Yokomo Big Bores with stock internals and blue o rings with Yokomo 50 Oil.
If You like The Car front to Lift and Bob and sit in a good amount of Sag while maintaining good front grip then This might be for You ,
Some might find it a little too active , If so use Yokomo 100-150 Oil and it will give less movement and more of a slower shock feel with very little front lift and bobbing.
Carpet , Concrete , P Tile , Doesn't seem to matter with this Spring and Shock setup.
As regards the ESC tuning / I'm Trying to stay below 60 degrees of Total Timing myself , running almost 80 Degrees in Total previously ,
Hobbywing XD10 and D10 Motor combo handled it anyway , but to be safe I brought it all back down below the 60 degrees Total
Great info Vid SC , Really appreciate the time and effort You put into this Channel
@ Glad you like the video……Shocks and setup are very subjective for each individual chassis and surface, it very hard to say “this is the best” because everyone’s cars weigh different amounts and have different layouts of their electronics along with driving on different surfaces. Glad you found what works for your setup.
What brand does this use for a spur holder?
This is a tt02 spur adapter. However the mc1 is a better option.
When using drag brake ues caution. Excessive drag brake will make your drifting choppy. Imo drag brake should never be used.
Yep, like I said in the video, I start with it up high and go down from there, I like my wheels to immediately slow down for snappy transition and that all goes back to how you want your car to feel.
Hey brother. Question.. im planning on upgrading my esc, possibly motor or both. Whats the difference between the HW XD10, XR10, XR10 Pro and XR10 Pro G2?
They all look to do the same things but the XD10 seems to have more frequency inputs for smoother throttle
Xd 10 is specific to drifting so that’s what I use. I can’t speak to the others but I believe they are more intended for racing and other cars. Go with what is made for what you’re doing.
@@shredcraftrc seems simple enough. 😂. Appreciate you
Man no regrets on the xd10 esc. Dang night and day difference compared to the 10bl120. I can't explain it but everything even down to the steering is so smooth. Probably going to pull the trigger on the d10 10.5
@@davidhess3320 did you use 10bl120 g2 ver? Because i have plan to upgrading to xd10esc too.
@@Rayradityaa yes I did, boost and turbo was real basic with only degree adjustments. Honestly, it was perfect for a starter car! If you're wanting boost, turbo, throttle, brake curves, what RPMs you want turbo or boost to kick in and all the goodness..just get the XD10. Right now you could pick up the XD10 ESC $159.99 and with code:HWTRYOUTS you could snag it for 139.99
I'm only at 4° turbo ,I should increase it
It all depends on the track you drive on, the motor and the weight and setup of your chassis, very subjective and you need to find what works for you.
What wheels are those
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