its been almost a year and yet you only have 191 views on this video. even though I can only give you one more view I hope you take comfort in knowing that your videos are the best out there for my bike, its almost like Kawasaki paid you to make an oem video guide because its so in depth
IRCTire is a Japanese company: Inoue Rubber Co. Ltd. Their tires outlast the OEM Dunlops and Bridgestones but people complain that they feel like wood. I’ve only ever used Dunlop myself since that’s what my bike included when I bougnt it new from the dealer in 2008 and that’s what I was used to.
I'm very impressed with your videos. I don't understand why you don't have over 100k subscribers. I wish you the best and thank you for making such detailed videos.
because he caters to ninja 250....he isn't riding up and down the road like a maniac catering to assholes. Also he isn't going around doing stupid shit...…...you live in a world where people throw a ball in a hoop and are paid the most money. Or kick a ball in the net. But the person who saves your life on an operating table works 36 hour shifts and is underpaid. That's why this guy has 1.1k subscribers. The world is fucked. Now go home.
20:30 - The 2008 Ninja 250R included Dunlop GT501 tires, at least in the USA. The 2009 included Bridgestone Battlax BT45 tires in the USA. 2010-2012 included the IRC RoadWinner tires you feature here. The parts catalog changed a couple times, even for past years, so you can’t go by that to know what year included what. It currently shows GT501 for all years!
42:05 - the third spacer is captive inside the wheel between the two sets of bearings. It’s a tube/sleeve that occupies the space between the axle and the wheel while the axle is suspended between bearings.
Believe it or not, you installed the axle backwards even though you installed it the way it came from the factory and the way it is presented in the parts diagram. ;) The “Rear Wheel Installation” section of the EX250J service manual says on 10-8 “Note: Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and tighten the axle nut” (comma splice is all theirs!). This is why they don’t say anything about holding up the brake caliper mounting bracket: The axle itself will hold it in place while you align the rest of the wheel. I have no idea why they did it that way from the factory but they probably have a jig that makes it easier.
Well, since I’ve seen you reference the EX250K (fuel injected) service manual in the valve service video I checked it too. It says the exact opposite! The EX250J (carbureted) service manual is the only thing telling you to insert from the right. After much discussion people have been following it for several years without issue and it makes the most sense but it’s also the odd one out here.
@@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 Yeah, I realized that yours is technically the wrong manual when we were talking about the drain bolt specs before. Mine is for EX250J (carb spec) and yours is for EX250K (FI-spec), but these sections should be the same across both. Clearly they aren’t the same so it seems they revised/corrected these parts for the one that was printed later (yours), but if you were following the correct manual for your bike it really would have you insert the axle from the right. ;) Kawasaki never updated the EX250J manual and never made a supplement so we should generally defer to the newest with the most corrections (yours). Still, there doesn’t seem to be a good reason not to follow the EX250J manual for installing the rear wheel since: -that is the way Kawasaki told us to do it, -there’s no known reason to insert from the left, -it’s MUCH easier to hold the brake, and… -they never even bothered to correct it. Inserting from the right per the EX250J service manual has been discussed to death in forums and no one can see a good reason not to do it like the J manual says, so I will probably continue doing it that way unless I have someone to hold the brake. I mean, we wouldn’t even know Kawasaki corrected it if we weren’t looking in the wrong manual and there doesn’t seem to be a reason for it to insert from the left anyway.
It lets the air out more quickly and completely. It also stays open. When breaking the bead you probably do not want to waste any of your force pressurizing trapped air.
I was watching this and thought what would be an easier way to remove those valve stems. The answer is clear to me. The easiest way I see to remove them is to burn them off. They are rubber and someone heat fro ma lighter should melt them enough to make them easy to remove with needle nose. The let the steel cool enough before installing new stems.
Great video ... best I’ve found... I have a question tho... is it normal to balance the wheel without the sprocket on the wheel? I just recently bought a balancer and I will use it in the future. Thanks for the video
Good question. Yes. Every video that I've seen does not use the sprocket and coupling. It would make the wheel too heavy for the balancer. Also, the sprocket and coupling are much closer to the center of the wheel, so they would not affect the balance as much. Technically, it would be best to have all rotating mass on the wheel, but I've never seen anyone do this. I wondered the same thing when I tried balancing for the first time. Strangely, no one seems to comment on this in any video that I've seen.
An imbalance in the sprocket and sprocket carrier would not fully translate to the wheel because of the slop in the cush drive. That’s where you will find a rubber bushing with huge tolerance gaps between the interface. This is why you only balance the wheel without the sprocket carrier
Valve core tool. The plastic cap to most tire slime products has one built in. IIRC, the tool he has is called a 4-in-1 tire tool at NAPA Auto and costs less than $5.
Harbor Fright offers a tire bead breakers for not much money. I think its worth the investment considering you run the risk of puncturing a tire that can cost a lot more than a bead breaker.
Are you referring to the little red one sold by HF? I tried it and it didn't work for me. I think it is designed for smaller tires, like lawnmower tires.
Ninja 250 Motorcycle Maintenance The very small one from HF appears to be scooter bead breaker. The one I was talking about is for a full size car tire changer and bead breaker all in one. I think HF used to offer a motorcycle tire changer. I was led to believe you may still be able to order it, but isn't stocked at the stores anymore.
+moofushu I considered buying that one too, but I think you have to bolt it to the ground. I don't own my garage; I rent, so I don't think I can bolt it.
I was looking around there are some really good ones but none of them are sold in the US. If you look up "Home Made Tire Changing Tools - Make Your Own by David Morrow" the first link Idrider.ca is someone sharing their home made one. It looks good. A lot like the better ones sold outside the US. Thanks for sharing your videos. I don't have a motorcycle and am just getting to know them before I ever even consider one.
its been almost a year and yet you only have 191 views on this video. even though I can only give you one more view I hope you take comfort in knowing that your videos are the best out there for my bike, its almost like Kawasaki paid you to make an oem video guide because its so in depth
Ninja 250R Service Manual (Video Series Version)
IRCTire is a Japanese company: Inoue Rubber Co. Ltd. Their tires outlast the OEM Dunlops and Bridgestones but people complain that they feel like wood. I’ve only ever used Dunlop myself since that’s what my bike included when I bougnt it new from the dealer in 2008 and that’s what I was used to.
I'm very impressed with your videos. I don't understand why you don't have over 100k subscribers. I wish you the best and thank you for making such detailed videos.
Thanks for the kind words!
because he caters to ninja 250....he isn't riding up and down the road like a maniac catering to assholes. Also he isn't going around doing stupid shit...…...you live in a world where people throw a ball in a hoop and are paid the most money. Or kick a ball in the net. But the person who saves your life on an operating table works 36 hour shifts and is underpaid. That's why this guy has 1.1k subscribers. The world is fucked. Now go home.
@@thirdworldrider6991a little aggressive but very true 😭 it’s sad
Pretty in depth video thank you i'm gonna try this on my 2013 300
20:30 - The 2008 Ninja 250R included Dunlop GT501 tires, at least in the USA. The 2009 included Bridgestone Battlax BT45 tires in the USA. 2010-2012 included the IRC RoadWinner tires you feature here. The parts catalog changed a couple times, even for past years, so you can’t go by that to know what year included what. It currently shows GT501 for all years!
42:05 - the third spacer is captive inside the wheel between the two sets of bearings. It’s a tube/sleeve that occupies the space between the axle and the wheel while the axle is suspended between bearings.
thank you for all your videos. I can not complement them enough. you are the first and only channel I've subscribe to.
wowyzaoy Thanks!
This guys voice reminds me so much of Sam Harris lol. Great video as always though. Thank you so much for your help
Your videos are so helpful and so professional man! Thanks! You should do fork seals sometime as well!
Believe it or not, you installed the axle backwards even though you installed it the way it came from the factory and the way it is presented in the parts diagram. ;) The “Rear Wheel Installation” section of the EX250J service manual says on 10-8 “Note: Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and tighten the axle nut” (comma splice is all theirs!). This is why they don’t say anything about holding up the brake caliper mounting bracket: The axle itself will hold it in place while you align the rest of the wheel. I have no idea why they did it that way from the factory but they probably have a jig that makes it easier.
Well, since I’ve seen you reference the EX250K (fuel injected) service manual in the valve service video I checked it too. It says the exact opposite! The EX250J (carbureted) service manual is the only thing telling you to insert from the right. After much discussion people have been following it for several years without issue and it makes the most sense but it’s also the odd one out here.
I think my service manual says to install it from the left, but I doubt that it matters with this bike.
@@ninja250motorcyclemaintena7 Yeah, I realized that yours is technically the wrong manual when we were talking about the drain bolt specs before. Mine is for EX250J (carb spec) and yours is for EX250K (FI-spec), but these sections should be the same across both. Clearly they aren’t the same so it seems they revised/corrected these parts for the one that was printed later (yours), but if you were following the correct manual for your bike it really would have you insert the axle from the right. ;)
Kawasaki never updated the EX250J manual and never made a supplement so we should generally defer to the newest with the most corrections (yours). Still, there doesn’t seem to be a good reason not to follow the EX250J manual for installing the rear wheel since:
-that is the way Kawasaki told us to do it,
-there’s no known reason to insert from the left,
-it’s MUCH easier to hold the brake, and…
-they never even bothered to correct it.
Inserting from the right per the EX250J service manual has been discussed to death in forums and no one can see a good reason not to do it like the J manual says, so I will probably continue doing it that way unless I have someone to hold the brake. I mean, we wouldn’t even know Kawasaki corrected it if we weren’t looking in the wrong manual and there doesn’t seem to be a reason for it to insert from the left anyway.
What's removing the valve core do?
It lets the air out more quickly and completely. It also stays open. When breaking the bead you probably do not want to waste any of your force pressurizing trapped air.
I was watching this and thought what would be an easier way to remove those valve stems. The answer is clear to me. The easiest way I see to remove them is to burn them off. They are rubber and someone heat fro ma lighter should melt them enough to make them easy to remove with needle nose. The let the steel cool enough before installing new stems.
Good tip. Thanks!
Great video ... best I’ve found... I have a question tho... is it normal to balance the wheel without the sprocket on the wheel? I just recently bought a balancer and I will use it in the future. Thanks for the video
Good question. Yes. Every video that I've seen does not use the sprocket and coupling. It would make the wheel too heavy for the balancer. Also, the sprocket and coupling are much closer to the center of the wheel, so they would not affect the balance as much. Technically, it would be best to have all rotating mass on the wheel, but I've never seen anyone do this. I wondered the same thing when I tried balancing for the first time. Strangely, no one seems to comment on this in any video that I've seen.
An imbalance in the sprocket and sprocket carrier would not fully translate to the wheel because of the slop in the cush drive. That’s where you will find a rubber bushing with huge tolerance gaps between the interface. This is why you only balance the wheel without the sprocket carrier
Whats that tool called for the Valve core?
Valve core tool. The plastic cap to most tire slime products has one built in. IIRC, the tool he has is called a 4-in-1 tire tool at NAPA Auto and costs less than $5.
Harbor Fright offers a tire bead breakers for not much money. I think its worth the investment considering you run the risk of puncturing a tire that can cost a lot more than a bead breaker.
Are you referring to the little red one sold by HF? I tried it and it didn't work for me. I think it is designed for smaller tires, like lawnmower tires.
The real danger is hitting the rim. If you're replacing the tire, it doesn't really matter if it is damaged.
Ninja 250 Motorcycle Maintenance
The very small one from HF appears to be scooter bead breaker. The one I was talking about is for a full size car tire changer and bead breaker all in one. I think HF used to offer a motorcycle tire changer. I was led to believe you may still be able to order it, but isn't stocked at the stores anymore.
+moofushu I considered buying that one too, but I think you have to bolt it to the ground. I don't own my garage; I rent, so I don't think I can bolt it.
I was looking around there are some really good ones but none of them are sold in the US. If you look up "Home Made Tire Changing Tools - Make Your Own by David Morrow" the first link Idrider.ca is someone sharing their home made one. It looks good. A lot like the better ones sold outside the US. Thanks for sharing your videos. I don't have a motorcycle and am just getting to know them before I ever even consider one.
Great video sr.! You are the key!
love the videos, but damn the audio man, it is muffled, your voice is deep...……:(