@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I am actually doing this, I couldn't find the rebuild kit anywhere but on ebay, even Parks Auto told me no way, but anyway I am doing this for a neighbor who hasn't seen his Ford run in 5 years, he is 84 years old, an just just wants to hear it run. But he was very excited we are not going to replace a part that is original to his car.
great video..i would recommend keeping the old spring tho..they have different spring pressures..i know the hard way..stromberg only like 4-5 psi..i went thru alot of springs till i found the right psi..
So that being the newer version of fuel pump....im guessing there's advantages to running that type vs the glass bowl type.? I've got the glass type on my motor now (not running). Just wondering if I should be looking for one like yours. Great vid.
I’m sorry if I didn’t communicate it well, the non glass bowl type is an older style, this pump would’ve been on a 1939 flathead, I wanted this style because I am putting it on my model A where there is already a glass bowl on the firewall, I didn’t want to have two, I would recommend keeping the type you have now
My valves don’t have screws holding them in, looks like brass bushings. How to get them out? I tried a pick, didn’t pry too hard to not cause any damage. 4:21
I thought it was for you fuel pressure like that too much in there that the ball bearing would slide one way or the other. But it doesn't look like it goes anywhere it just in there
Hey bud, I was wondering if you knew what the one you didn't rebuild is from, my 51 fordor has that style but when I ordered the gasket set the one for the housing (2 holes and oblong hole) was shorter than mine. Looks the same but like it shrunk in a drier. Since my 51 was in others hands I'm wondering if different years had longer housings.
If you have the pump with the glass bowl on it, it’s from the 49-53 evolution of the flathead. I like those better than the early pumps without the bowl, because the bowl is where all the sediment collects. With that, you can see how much crap is being drawn out of the fuel tank, and clean it prior to it clogging up your carb. The gasket you speak of may be for a taller fuel pump mount, there are different heights, as well as different push rod lengths. You’ll have to do a bit of detective work to see if you have a taller than stock mount or pushrod for the pump.
Have you run your motor since the rebuild? I bought one of the new Offenhauser fuel pumps from Speedway (this is for a 49-53 “late” Flathead). Out of the box it was pushing fuel at 7-ish PSI. I have a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and carb. 7PSI is way too much for the Holley 94s I am running, they like 2-4... it was leaking fuel around the throttle shaft and dumping fuel down the carb. I took the new one apart, and used the big spring from the old one, instead of the spring that came with the new one. Problem solved. Just be wary of the new parts, and don’t throw away the old stuff until you are sure the new one is dandy.
Actually I haven’t ran this one, I’ve ran other I’ve gotten in the past but not the one from Ecklers, I’ll keep that in mind thank you very much, luckily I have like 5 pumps incase I need parts. Also though is your carb no longer leaking at the throttle shaft? Those shaft wear down and start to suck air also, I would check the play in the shaft
Thanks for posting this info. I am facing the same issue (1950 8ba in 1936 p/up)! Been pulling what little hair I have trying to figure out how so much fuel could be disappearing-til I pulled the dipstick!! Hopefully, this will cure the problem. Again, many thanks from a first-timer.
Can I test my fuel pump by disconnecting the fuel line and take a line from the pump into a cup of fuel and see if it is creating pressure or will this not work?
Would faulty seal in fuel pump cause gas in the oil? Total newbie and first few times starting engine but seems to have slight smell of gas in oil and possibly running rich.
It could if the blaster inside the pump was leaking, it would drain down onto the fuel pump pushrod and onto the cam, but the carb could also be leaking while sitting and wash down through the cylinders, to check the pump unbolt it’s from the intake, and manually work the pump lever, if gas come off the leaver it’s the pump, if your flathead sits for a couple days and when it starts it blows a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust, then it’s the carburetor leaking
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks for the knowledge! Looks like I'll be pulling fuel pump today. It sat for a week with out running and at first start there wasn't black smoke.
I bought the rebuild kit for my 49 F1 with and OE pump from early Ford v8 parts. The holes in the bladder didn't line up with the holes in my pump housing and the shaft was clocked wrong. I emailed them and he said that's the only kit available and my pump must be a cheap Chinese pump(it's not). Ended up having to by a whole new pump.
If I remember correctly ,It's been some time, the bladder only goes on one way. Try rotating the bladder until the holes line up. I have the sediment bowl type and there is no alignment notch so it maybe different on the older one . I Hope this helps.
Hey man my name is David I am restoring a 48 Ford after having it for 8 years I'm fixing to retire and I want to get to work on it I've been looking at the engine the top radiator hoses go to the center of the motor and on each head it has 59 a stamped in the head just asking is it a good motor to work with I want to keep it in the car as original as I can everyone is hassling me to change the drivetrain in the motor and I don't want to do it the car has always ran great set there and run all day long I guess I'm just looking for an opinion to tell me what you think
Hello David! What a great year car! This is the exact year I learned how to work on cars with my dad, the 59a is actually one of the better Flatheads, it has much better bearings and oiling than the earlier ones, when it comes to Flatheads it’s not about the horsepower, it’s about the history, and the uniqueness, the 59 can definitely be hot rodded, it’ll be more expensive than like a 302 and in the end it will have less horsepower than a 302, so you definitely just have to love these motors instead of the price to horsepower ratio, if you would like more information on flatheads and talk to more people about them I would suggest joining “The Flatspot a Flathead Support Group” on Facebook, it’s all Flathead Ford enthusiast and we have 18 thousand members, so if you choose to keep the Flathead you’ll have a great support community to ask any questions you have
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop well I appreciate you getting back with me I do appreciate that you said it is one of the better Motors because I was wondering about that but I have noticed after it runs a while and you cut it off it doesn't want to start right back up LOL but it will eventually
@@davidyoung403 sounds like you are having what’s called a heat soak issue, could be a lot of things like rubber fuel lines, an aftermarket fuel filter, carburetor issues
@@davidyoung403 you have the 32-48 version of the flathead. The 49-53 engines had the water outlets move from center of head to front of head. The ignition system changed as well, with a modern style distributor instead of the one on the front timing cover. Your issue with it not restarting easily when hot is a common issue with the flathead. This usually happens due to the fuel boiling in the carb, or in the fuel line between the pump and the carb inlet. They make phenolic spacers to go under the carb on the intake manifold that act like a thermal break between them, but as far as how effective they are, I can’t say. They also make a foil looking sleeve that is heat reflective for the fuel line, but again, I can’t attest to the amount of benefit it gives. Back in the day, a good sized rag soaked in cold water, and wrapped around the carb and fuel pump for a short time before restarting it on a hot day did the trick too.
Hello Tommy, there isn’t a ball bearing in the inlet side of the pump, maybe if you comment what time you saw the bearing in the video I can further explain what you are seeing
I'm supposed to put this thing on that 36 Ford in the morning. In your videos I don't see any ball bearing. They're not that hard to rebuild but that little ball bearing that was like in the inlet..... It's like deep inside the inlet and I popped it out
Thanks for rebuilding rather than buying new. Much more soul! Well done.
Exactly! Thank you for watching!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I am actually doing this, I couldn't find the rebuild kit anywhere but on ebay, even Parks Auto told me no way, but anyway I am doing this for a neighbor who hasn't seen his Ford run in 5 years, he is 84 years old, an just just wants to hear it run. But he was very excited we are not going to replace a part that is original to his car.
Another awesome video !!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Thank you! And thank you so much for watching!
Excellent video. Thanks for making it and posting. Looks like Mac's Auto has the rebuild kits for $28.99 plus shipping.
Jack Dunigan no problem glad I could help! And that’s not too bad, Ecklers bought out Macs and makes all their parts now
Very informative and nicely done sir-as always!
Thank you!
Awesome video! I didn't know it was that simple!
Sure is! Thank you for watching!
Great video
Thank you Jay!
Thanks for the video, not putting electric fuel pumps in. Great job 👍
The original equipment just looks so much better! Thank you for watching
great video..i would recommend keeping the old spring tho..they have different spring pressures..i know the hard way..stromberg only like 4-5 psi..i went thru alot of springs till i found the right psi..
Thanks for the info!
So that being the newer version of fuel pump....im guessing there's advantages to running that type vs the glass bowl type.? I've got the glass type on my motor now (not running). Just wondering if I should be looking for one like yours. Great vid.
I’m sorry if I didn’t communicate it well, the non glass bowl type is an older style, this pump would’ve been on a 1939 flathead, I wanted this style because I am putting it on my model A where there is already a glass bowl on the firewall, I didn’t want to have two, I would recommend keeping the type you have now
You're making it too easy. Thanks for what you do. I have a 1949 f2 truck that has an 8BA 239 engine.
No problem at all thank you so much for watching, great year truck! Got one in the shop getting work done right nown
Did you paint or hot-blue the screws?
YAY!
Thanks Carl!
My valves don’t have screws holding them in, looks like brass bushings. How to get them out? I tried a pick, didn’t pry too hard to not cause any damage. 4:21
So the pump kits are available at speed way, I have a customer who needs a kit or a new pump, great information
Thank you! Glad to help
Dude I pull the ball bearing out of it
It's the in the bowl type. I put the thing back together and I put that ball bearing in there but I can take it back out and show you
I thought it was for you fuel pressure like that too much in there that the ball bearing would slide one way or the other. But it doesn't look like it goes anywhere it just in there
Napa can still get those fuel pumps, ready to go out of the box.
Hey bud, I was wondering if you knew what the one you didn't rebuild is from, my 51 fordor has that style but when I ordered the gasket set the one for the housing (2 holes and oblong hole) was shorter than mine. Looks the same but like it shrunk in a drier. Since my 51 was in others hands I'm wondering if different years had longer housings.
I would love to help, send me some pictures in a email so I can be 100 percent sure, wiredcustomsllc@gmail.com
If you have the pump with the glass bowl on it, it’s from the 49-53 evolution of the flathead. I like those better than the early pumps without the bowl, because the bowl is where all the sediment collects. With that, you can see how much crap is being drawn out of the fuel tank, and clean it prior to it clogging up your carb. The gasket you speak of may be for a taller fuel pump mount, there are different heights, as well as different push rod lengths. You’ll have to do a bit of detective work to see if you have a taller than stock mount or pushrod for the pump.
Have you run your motor since the rebuild? I bought one of the new Offenhauser fuel pumps from Speedway (this is for a 49-53 “late” Flathead). Out of the box it was pushing fuel at 7-ish PSI. I have a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and carb. 7PSI is way too much for the Holley 94s I am running, they like 2-4... it was leaking fuel around the throttle shaft and dumping fuel down the carb. I took the new one apart, and used the big spring from the old one, instead of the spring that came with the new one. Problem solved. Just be wary of the new parts, and don’t throw away the old stuff until you are sure the new one is dandy.
Actually I haven’t ran this one, I’ve ran other I’ve gotten in the past but not the one from Ecklers, I’ll keep that in mind thank you very much, luckily I have like 5 pumps incase I need parts. Also though is your carb no longer leaking at the throttle shaft? Those shaft wear down and start to suck air also, I would check the play in the shaft
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop my carbs are rebuilt and the shafts are new. That leaking actually happens in a 94 with too much fuel pressure.
Thanks for posting this info. I am facing the same issue (1950 8ba in 1936 p/up)! Been pulling what little hair I have trying to figure out how so much fuel could be disappearing-til I pulled the dipstick!! Hopefully, this will cure the problem.
Again, many thanks from a first-timer.
Can I test my fuel pump by disconnecting the fuel line and take a line from the pump into a cup of fuel and see if it is creating pressure or will this not work?
Yes of course, I like to test mine on a bench and see if it’s sucking on the inline and creating pressure on the outlet
Would faulty seal in fuel pump cause gas in the oil? Total newbie and first few times starting engine but seems to have slight smell of gas in oil and possibly running rich.
It could if the blaster inside the pump was leaking, it would drain down onto the fuel pump pushrod and onto the cam, but the carb could also be leaking while sitting and wash down through the cylinders, to check the pump unbolt it’s from the intake, and manually work the pump lever, if gas come off the leaver it’s the pump, if your flathead sits for a couple days and when it starts it blows a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust, then it’s the carburetor leaking
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks for the knowledge! Looks like I'll be pulling fuel pump today. It sat for a week with out running and at first start there wasn't black smoke.
n s no problem at all! Glad I could help
I bought the rebuild kit for my 49 F1 with and OE pump from early Ford v8 parts. The holes in the bladder didn't line up with the holes in my pump housing and the shaft was clocked wrong. I emailed them and he said that's the only kit available and my pump must be a cheap Chinese pump(it's not). Ended up having to by a whole new pump.
I’m sorry that sound frustrating, definitely a bad parts kit!
Paul Skene thanks for the info Paul! I’ll let people know from now on!
If I remember correctly ,It's been some time, the bladder only goes on one way. Try rotating the bladder until the holes line up. I have the sediment bowl type and there is no alignment notch so it maybe different on the older one .
I Hope this helps.
Hey man my name is David I am restoring a 48 Ford after having it for 8 years I'm fixing to retire and I want to get to work on it I've been looking at the engine the top radiator hoses go to the center of the motor and on each head it has 59 a stamped in the head just asking is it a good motor to work with I want to keep it in the car as original as I can everyone is hassling me to change the drivetrain in the motor and I don't want to do it the car has always ran great set there and run all day long I guess I'm just looking for an opinion to tell me what you think
Hello David! What a great year car! This is the exact year I learned how to work on cars with my dad, the 59a is actually one of the better Flatheads, it has much better bearings and oiling than the earlier ones, when it comes to Flatheads it’s not about the horsepower, it’s about the history, and the uniqueness, the 59 can definitely be hot rodded, it’ll be more expensive than like a 302 and in the end it will have less horsepower than a 302, so you definitely just have to love these motors instead of the price to horsepower ratio, if you would like more information on flatheads and talk to more people about them I would suggest joining “The Flatspot a Flathead Support Group” on Facebook, it’s all Flathead Ford enthusiast and we have 18 thousand members, so if you choose to keep the Flathead you’ll have a great support community to ask any questions you have
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop well I appreciate you getting back with me I do appreciate that you said it is one of the better Motors because I was wondering about that but I have noticed after it runs a while and you cut it off it doesn't want to start right back up LOL but it will eventually
@@davidyoung403 sounds like you are having what’s called a heat soak issue, could be a lot of things like rubber fuel lines, an aftermarket fuel filter, carburetor issues
@@davidyoung403 you have the 32-48 version of the flathead. The 49-53 engines had the water outlets move from center of head to front of head. The ignition system changed as well, with a modern style distributor instead of the one on the front timing cover. Your issue with it not restarting easily when hot is a common issue with the flathead. This usually happens due to the fuel boiling in the carb, or in the fuel line between the pump and the carb inlet. They make phenolic spacers to go under the carb on the intake manifold that act like a thermal break between them, but as far as how effective they are, I can’t say. They also make a foil looking sleeve that is heat reflective for the fuel line, but again, I can’t attest to the amount of benefit it gives. Back in the day, a good sized rag soaked in cold water, and wrapped around the carb and fuel pump for a short time before restarting it on a hot day did the trick too.
Great informative video. You should be an instructor.
Thanks Cary! I use to be an instructor! I just moved on to greater things
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Well your good at it.
Hi there... Mate possible talk to you?? Need some help about Ford super deluxe 1946..
Sure shoot me a message on either Facebook or Instagram, I’m wired customs on both
What is that ball bearing in the inlet for
Hello Tommy, there isn’t a ball bearing in the inlet side of the pump, maybe if you comment what time you saw the bearing in the video I can further explain what you are seeing
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop dude there is a ball bearing
Dude there is a ball bearing if I have to take a picture I'll show you.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop I can take a picture of it. It's tripping me out.
I'm supposed to put this thing on that 36 Ford in the morning. In your videos I don't see any ball bearing. They're not that hard to rebuild but that little ball bearing that was like in the inlet..... It's like deep inside the inlet and I popped it out
You put the diaphragm tab facing the engine. That is wrong, it goes facing out from the engine.
It’s not wrong, it’s just not original, I have mine facing my fuel tank outlet on my model A
Everybody can tell you how to rebuild a fuel pump But Nobody seams to know how to remove one , or put one back on !!
That’s the east part, do you need any help? You could always message me on IG or FB to get more direct help
it's idiotic to be cussing in these videos